a. Khadi- Gandhi's call for complete independence in the 1940s had the objective of uniting the entire country and manifested itself by the burning of all foreign materials/clothes. It was a significant gesture that 'khadi'- traditional, rough, hand spun, woven on charkha. It was not just a fabric but also a symbol of the self reliance, nationalism and resistance to British rule.

b. Post independence & 1950’s.

• Indian style statement was expanded by India's first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. He consistently exhibited an inimitable style with his well stitched churidar-kurtas, Gandhi to pi and a 'bandh gala' band-collar jacket with a red rose pinned on the lapel. The 'Nehru jacket' as it was known, gave a new direction to menswear fashion in India. 
• The length of the blouse became shorter. The 'cup' could now be cut as a separate piece with darts and seams. Embellishment though embroidery, mirror work, beads and sequins made blouses more decorative. 
• Indian women now had the dual responsibility of balancing the household and work outside the home. Optimizing time, she found the 'salwar-kameez' very convenient. Originating from Punjab, this ensemble was adopted as a natural choice irrespective of local and provincial influences. It was initially worn with a short jacket or 'bundi' and a 'dupatta'.