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Describe Phulkari in respect of Region, Technique, Motifs, style of embroidery and End uses. |
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Answer» Phulkari: Region: Phulkari is an embroidery style that originated in Punjab. It is used and embroidered in different parts of Punjab namely Jalandhar, amritsar, Kapurthala, Hoshiarpur, ludhiana, Ferozepur, Bhatinda and Patiala. The earliest available article of phulkari embroidery is a rumal embroidered during 15th century by Bibi Nanaki, sister of guru Nanak dev. The needlework is widely practiced by the women of Punjab and holds significance in a life of a woman, from her marriage till her final abode to heaven. Technique: The base material to execute Phulkari is handspun and handwoven Khaddar that is dyed in red, rust, brown, blue and darker shades. Soft untwisted silk thread ‘Pat’ is used for the embroidery. The colours of the thread are red, green, golden yellow, orange, blue etc. The basic stitch employed for Phulkari is darning stitch, which is done from the reverse side of the fabric. The stitches follow the weave and a beautiful effect is created on the fabric by changing the direction of the stitches . For outlining of motifs and borders, stem, chain and herringbone stitches are sometimes used. Motifs: The motifs used in Phulkari are inspired by objects of everyday use like rolling pin, sword, flowers, vegetables, birds, animals etc. They are generally geometrical and stylized. Usually one motif is left unembroidered or is embroidered in an offbeat colour. This motif is called ‘nazarbuti’ which is considered to ward off the evil eye. Style of embroidery: The two embroidery styles prevalent in Punjab are Bagh and Phulkari. Bagh is a fully embroidered wrap that is used for special occasions whereas Phulkari is simple and lightly embroidered for everyday use. End use: Phulkari is an important part of the bridal trousseau and is worn as a veil or wrap by women on special occasions like Karva Chauth, a festival celebrated in North India for longevity of husbands. A specific pattern of Phulkari is also used as canopy on religious occasions. Presently; Phulkari is being done on bed linen and apparel like tops, tunics and skirts. |
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