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Solve : I upgraded my RAM, now the FPS in my games have been fluctuating semi-rapidly? |
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Answer» A SUMMARY OF MY PROBLEM: I have been playing Battlefield 3 since release, and have been able to play at near max settings with a very stable fps. But ever since upgrading my 2x2GB(4GB from TWO sticks) RAM to 2x4GB, I have been experiencing this very strange fluctuation in fps. Everything will run normally for the first minute or so, but then every second or two the fps will drop and raise by around 10 or 15 I think(it looks like I'm lagging, but it happens offline too). It does this until I close the game, and it happens in every game I play. I had also noticed a general drop in my fps. MY SYSTEM Windows 7 64bit 500W PSU AMD 1100T six core 3.3Ghz AMD HD 6950 1GB DDR5 RAM 8GB DDR3 RAM 1920x1080 My MOBO: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3583#sp My old RAM: http://www.corsair.com/cmv4gx3m2a1333c9.html My new RAM: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7162756&CatId=4534 My CPU-Z info on my new RAM: http://i.imgur.com/ym6Rb.png ATTEMPTED SOLUTIONS I ran the newest version of memtest for nearly ten hours and no errors have shown. The RAM is definitely good. I went into BIOS and checked the speed and timings. If you go back to the CPU-Z info it shows that the cycle time was set to 24 clocks. It should be 27 instead. I fixed that and it brought my fps back to it's normal highs, but the fps continues to fluctuate which causes the strange "lag". I loaded the Optimized defaults in BIOS, then reset the cycle time back to 27 but it did no good. I replaced the new sticks with the old to see if things would go back to normal. That is not the case, as the fps still fluctuates. I re-installed Windows completely, yet the problem is still there. POSSIBLE SOLUTION The fact that the fps did not return to normal when I inserted the old memory combined with the fact that the cycle time was not correct in BIOS leads me to believe it may be some other settings that are off in BIOS; unfortunately I am not very confident in adjusting these settings without help from people more knowledgeable than I. MY BIOS SETTINGS: Under M.I.T. Settings: http://i.imgur.com/cwtVE.jpg Under DRAM Configuration: http://i.imgur.com/jdiQS.jpgI don't even see a 4G stik of RAM on their preferred Vendor List in that speed...Would you mind clarifying? A preferred vendor list for my motherboard? If that's the case, why won't it go back to normal when I put the old sticks back in? I would like to update my BIOS to the newest version, but I can't seem to find one compatible with 64 bit windows. I'm on version F13 and trying to install F14MBoard manuf. put out what's CALLED Preferred Vendor Lists for RAM... It lists Brands; speeds and sizes of RAM that they have officially tested in the MBoard and is the best way to select RAM...That's good to know, thanks. Unfortunately when I put the old RAM back in(which had been working fine for months), the problem is still there.That could be from the BIOS settings that were changed...That's what I'm guessing as well. Unfortunately the info in the manual isn't very helpful. I don't know what most of that stuff means, and if you look at the pictures of my BIOS settings, you can't really compare them easily: SPECIFICATIONS CL(IDD) 9 cycles ROW Cycle Time (tRCmin) 49.5ns (min.) Refresh to Active/Refresh 160ns (min.) Command Time (tRFCmin) Row Active Time (tRASmin) 36ns (min.) Power (Operating) 1.410 W* UL Rating 94 V - 0 Operating Temperature 0o C to 85o C Storage Temperature -55o C to +100o C *Power will vary depending on the SDRAM used. FEATURES • JEDEC standard 1.5V (1.425V ~ 1.575V) Power Supply • VDDQ = 1.5V (1.425V ~ 1.575V) • 667MHz fCK for 1333Mb/sec/pin • 8 independent internal bank • Programmable CAS Latency: 9, 8, 7, 6 • Programmable Additive Latency: 0, CL - 2, or CL - 1 clock • Programmable CAS Write Latency(CWL) = 7 (DDR3-1333) • 8-bit pre-fetch • Burst Length: 8 (Interleave without any limit, sequential with starting address “000” only), 4 with tCCD = 4 which does not allow seamless read or write [either on the fly using A12 or MRS] • Bi-directional Differential Data Strobe • Internal(self) calibration : Internal self calibration through ZQ pin (RZQ : 240 ohm ± 1%) • On Die Termination using ODT pin • Average Refresh Period 7.8us at lower than TCASE 85°C, 3.9us at 85°C < TCASE < 95°C • Asynchronous Reset • PCB : Height 1.180” (30.00mm), double sided component SOURCE: http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1333C9D3B1K2_8G.pdfRe-set the BIOS to factory settings and try the new RAM again...That's the same thing as Optimized defaults? If so, I've already done that. No harm in trying again though.No...Factory is not optimised... Check your choices again.This is what I see when I enter BIOS: http://i.imgur.com/rtHu7.jpg I'll google around and see what I can do to restore it to factory defaults. Also, I tried loading the fail-safe defaults and that did no good.In this manual, under 14: http://www.manualowl.com/m/Gigabyte/GA-MA78LMT-S2/Manual/207688?page=28 It says to use a metal object to short those two pins which would clear the CMOS. Is this a good idea? Once I do that, should I launch straight into windows, or restore the "Optimized Defaults" again? Sorry if that's a stupid question, I just don't want to damage anything.May be easier to remove the CMOS battery on the MBoard for 5 minutes with all power disconnected...accomplishes the same thing...all right, I'll give that a try.I removed the CMOS Battery for a good 7 minutes and booted straight to windows without making any BIOS changes, but the issue is still there. That means it's a hardware issue, correct? Before I replaced my RAM everything was working correctly, and I didn't mess with the other hardware. At this point, is my only option to take apart and re-assemble my entire computer? |
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