Operating System
   Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
   Intel Core i3 3110M 2.40GHz   47 °C
   Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
RAM
   4.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 798MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
   FUJITSU FJNBB2B (CPU Socket - U3E1)   48 °C
Graphics
   Generic PnP Monitor ([email protected])
   Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Fujitsu)
   1023MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 620M (Fujitsu)
Storage
   465GB TOSHIBA MK5061GSYN (SATA)   38 °C
Optical Drives
   ZKTIXE Z4HA7OH SCSI CdRom Device
   MATSHITA DVD-RAM UJ8C0
   DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
Audio
   REALTEK High Definition Audio



RAM
      MEMORY slots
         Total memory slots   4
         Used memory slots   1
         Free memory slots   3
      Memory
         Type   DDR3
         Size   4096 MBytes
         Channels #   Single
         DRAM Frequency   798.2 MHz
         CAS# Latency (CL)   11 clocks
         RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD)   11 clocks
         RAS# Precharge (tRP)   11 clocks
         Cycle Time (TRAS)   28 clocks
         Command Rate (CR)   1T
      Physical Memory
         Memory Usage   65 %
         Total Physical   3.86 GB
         Available Physical   1.32 GB
         Total Virtual   7.72 GB
         Available Virtual   4.91 GB
      SPD
         NUMBER Of SPD Modules   1
            Slot #1


Hello again! I would like to buy some RAM, preferably 4 GB, but how will I know if my laptop will support it? I don't recall what type of RAM I am using, but if I get another that is not like the one that I have, meaning a different provider, will it make a difference?

I have a couple of options but I am clueless. Please help !

Kingston 4GB, DDR3, 1600MHz, SODIMM (MB);   Kingmax 4GB DDR3, 1600MHz ; Kingston 4GB, DDR3, 1600MHz, Non-ECC, CL9, SODIMM ; Corsair 4GB DDR3, 1600MHz, CL9

Thank you!
Historically, the price of RAM comes down and the biotechnology goes up. So your motherboard may outlive your RAM.
If you want a rule, try his: The cost of your RAM should not be exceed  20 per cent of the whole system. IMHO.  Thanks, but there are some technical names there like SODIMM, NO-ECC and I do not know what they mean.

They are roughly about 60 $ each.visit http://www.crucial.com/ or http://www.kingston.com/us/ and use their memory search tools.  They will tell you what memory you can add to your computer.  You will need the brand and exact model of your computer. Ok thank you very much ! I also found the data sheet for my laptop which is great !Ok, great, so does it matter if it is ECC or Non-ECC ?ECC is not required. Some think it is a waste of money for a personal computer.
From the Crucial web site, link above, see this:
Quote

ECC vs. non-ECC — What do I Have and Can I Mix?
When adding new memory, you should match what is already in your system. Adding non-ECC memory to an ECC system will disable the error-checking and correcting ability of your memory modules. While your system may still operate, the enhanced features of the ECC modules will no longer be active in your computer.
You can determine if your system has ECC by simply counting the number of black memory chips on each module. ECC (and parity) memory modules have a CHIP count divisible by three or five. This extra chip detects if the data was correctly read or written by the memory module. If the data wasn't properly written, the extra chip will correct it in many cases (depending on the type of error). Non-ECC (also called non-parity) modules do not have this error-detecting feature. Any chip count not divisible by three or five indicates a non-parity memory module.
Using ECC decreases your computer's performance by about 2 percent. Current technology DRAM is very stable, and memory errors are rare, so unless you have a need for ECC, you are better served with non-parity (non-ECC) memory.
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