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This section includes InterviewSolutions, each offering curated multiple-choice questions to sharpen your knowledge and support exam preparation. Choose a topic below to get started.

1.

Solve : Monitor Display Distorted?

Answer» Problem:

My monitor just recently started to display a distorted/hazy/faint/dull/blurry/wavy picture. And/or there are faint lines running through the picture.

(or several variations of the above, all having to do with POOR monitor display).


Suggestions:

In many cases, especially when the monitor display becomes fuzzy or one color channel becomes too dominant, a failing monitor is to blame and it likely will NEED to be replaced. However, the following steps are recommended before making the decision to purchase a new display:
  • Check VGA/DVI-I monitor cable to MAKE certain that no pins are bend or broken.

  • Ensure the video connection into the computer CASE is tight and secure.
  • Degauss the monitor using the On Screen Display (OSD)menu using the navigation buttons on the monitor casing
  • Verify no magnetic devices which could cause distortion are close to the monitor.
  • Ensure the video card is properly seated, removing it and reseating it if in doubt. Take precautionary measures against Electro Static Discharge.
  • Install monitor drivers to be able to unlock (or select) the optimal refresh rate for each resolution available to your monitor. Monitor drivers can be obtained from the manufacturer.

If all above methods have failed and the monitor continues to show a distorted/hazy/faint/dull/blurry/wavy picture the unit will have to be replaced. Contact the manufacturer for warranty if possible.



For additional information and related issues, click on the following links:

Monitor has a tint of one color

Distorted or skewed image on monitor

Monitor CLICKS, pops, or makes other noises

2.

Solve : Case and Component compatibility?

Answer» Question:

I have an empty PC case that I would like to use to build my own system. How would I find out what size motherboard and power suppy I would need for it .

(Original post: [Old Link])


Answer:

1. Check to see if the mainboard has the following:
  • Connector ports rotated 90 degrees (PS/2, COM, LPT-1)
  • 20 or 24 PIN power connector
If you answered yes to both, it is SAFE to ASSUME your mainboard is of the ATX form factor.


2. For additional info on case types, click *here*.

3.

Solve : Removing and reinstalling video card drivers?

Answer» Question:

I need to update or remove my video CARD drivers, but of course, they will need to be reinstalled. What are the steps for this?

Notes:

* These steps below MAY not be exact, depending on what video card you have. Becuase I use NVIDIA, I will be showing instructions for a NVIDIA card. Because I will be using Windows XP, I will be writing about Windows XP as well.

* By this time, I HOPE you have downloaded (but obviously not installed) the new drivers for your card from your card manufacturer's website. Do not continue with these steps until your new drivers are downloaded.

* When downloading/installing drivers, you MUST:
  • Turn off any download accelerators
  • While installing drivers, turn OFF ALL antivirus and Antispyware software
Answer:

-Download:

1) Go to your video card manufacturer's website (I will be using NVIDIA here)
2) Click on the Download Drivers button
3) You will see three boxes. In the first one, click on what you are looking for. We will select graphics drivers. In the second box, click on your card series. In the THIRD box, click on your operating system. All you have to do now is click on the next button.

-Uninstall:

1) Go into the Control Panel
2) Click on the Add/Remove Programs icon
3) Depending on which driver version you are using, your graphics drivers may appear in differently in the list of programs installed. These drivers will appear as, "NVIDIA Windows Display Drivers", or as "NVIDIA Drivers".
4) Click on the Add/Remove button
5) You will now be asked to confirm the uninstall.

Note: You will probably be asked to restart your computer at this time.

-Install:

1) Once the computer has fully booted-up, double-click on the setup file you downloaded earlier
2) Follow the on-screen instructions from this point FORWARD. The install file will tell you what to do from this point.

If you have something to add, don't be afraid to post it!

Flame
4.

Solve : Some Useful Tools: APC Selectors...?

Answer»

Are you looking for a backup UPS...in case you have power interruptions and need time to be able to save your work and shut down safely?

Are you looking for battery replacements for an existing APC UPS?

How about a surge protector? Cables? Notebook REPLACEMENT batteries?

The following links will help you choose the right product(s) based on the information you supply.

Simply give the Selectors the information and they will RETURN various recommendations, along with specs and images about the product that would best fit your needs.

There are no links to other websites...and you can use the information you OBTAIN to do a search for the product you found...finding the best possible price for that item...on your own.

I feel these selectors can be very useful tools...and I hope you do as well.

Here are the links:

UPS Selector
UPS Battery Selector
Surge PROTECTION Selector
Notebook Battery Replacements
Cables



Enjoy!

5.

Solve : My optical drive has suddenly slowed?

Answer» SYMPTOM:
My optical drive has suddenly slowed to a crawl reading discs, and it refuses to read some discs.

Solution:
Optical DRIVES usually don't expire gradually; most simply stop WORKING without so much as a death rattle. It's much more likely your drive's lens has accumulated a layer of dust.
Get yourself a can of compressed air at the local geek emporium, and open the disc tray. Spray into the drive with quick, short bursts at an angle (so the dust is more likely to be expelled from the drive). Do not spray continuously or with the can upside down, because that could introduce moisture into the drive. Give the dust a minute to settle, and spray the innards again.



7.

Solve : Car cd player wont play my burned cds?

Answer» Symptom:
I can burn audio CDs and listen to them on my PC, but my PORTABLE CD PLAYER and car stereo can't recognize them.

Solution:
Commercial CDs are literally stamped from extruded masters, creating pits and lands that CD players have been designed to read. Burned CD, however, create darkened areas that MIMIC the pits and lands of commercial CDs. As you've noticed, not all players-especially older ones-can deal with these kinds of discs. But all is not lost. Your best BET is to burn at a slower speed, 4x or below. This creates slightly more prominent differences between the burned and non-burned areas. If you have a Plextor burner, though, you have an even better option. The bundled Plex Tools includes VariRec, which allows you to subtly alter the burning strength of your optical drives laser. By experimenting with various discs and burning strengths, you will almost certainly find the right combination for your CD player. VariRec is supported by both Nero and Easy CD Creator.also check your format, are you copying mp3 wma files straight to the cd or is it beening converted. the format for cd is .wav, but actually shows up as .cda extention. lots of new cd players include mp3 wma playback, but older ones and cheaper ones do not. some cd players will not read cd-rw, but will read cd-r.
8.

Solve : Floppy drive headaches?

Answer» Question
I have a floppy drive installed but Windows can't see it. How can I make it see it?

Opposite question
I took out my floppy drive, but I can't get Windows to stop seeing it, or I never had a floppy and it sees one. How can I remove this?

Answer to both questions
To solve this problem is simpler than you think, but it requires a little knowledge of BIOS, KNOWN to novice users as Setup. This Setup/BIOS can be reached by striking a CERTAIN key during boot; for most machines, it is the Delete/Del key. Refer to your computer manual for assistance if this key does not work or if you do not know when to press it. If you have a self-constructed computer, refer to your motherboard manual for instructions.

Once in BIOS/CMOS, navigate to information about all your hardware (hard drive, floppy, CD-ROM, etc.). If you don't know how to find it, look in anything resembling Basic or General settings. If this information is not listed there, look around in the different settings being careful not to change anything until you do find it. Since BIOS's differ from PC to PC, it is impossible to say what heading to find the information on.

Once you reach the settings for the drives, GO down to the Floppy and select it. If you are trying to get Windows to see it, enable the Floppy drive. If you're trying to get Windows to "forget it", disable it.

NoteUnlike most hardware, Floppy drives are the only pieces of hardware I know whose installation is not depended on whether it's installed or not; just that BIOS is set to recognize it. In plain English: Most hardware is automatically detected by Windows whether you like it or not, and if it is removed, the system stops seeing it automatically; however, regardless of whether a Floppy is installed or not, the "is it there or not?" question Windows asks is not answered by it's hardware detection, but by BIOS. Strange, is it not?

Save your changes to CMOS/BIOS and reboot. Upon rebooting into Windows, you should have the desired result, be it installing or UNINSTALLING the drive. USB external floppy drives are the exception to the above; these do not require a BIOS change to install/uninstall. It's Plug n' Play, so removing the cord will uninstall the drive without issues (well, unless you were writing to the disk at the time. Do not remove a USB device while it's being written to or read by the computer; Basically, wait for it to stop making noise).
9.

Solve : Useful Benchmarking Tools?

Answer»

If you're looking for tools to see how fast your system really is - either for diagnostics purposes, deciding what to upgrade next, or just for bragging rights - look no further! I've separated these out into categories and will update this as time permits, I hope you find the information useful! If you have any queries about anything in this FAQ, whether related to the specific tools or not, please create a new thread in the appropriate section - probably Hardware - and we'll assist. I'm also happy to take feedback on this thread via PM, if you know of a useful tool that isn't here or spot an error.

General system performance

PCMark - one of the oldest and most well-known general benchmarking tools, PCMark by Futuremark is now on version 8. There's a free version available to download from their website, or there are several paid options. The usual paid option is known as "Advanced Edition" and is available to buy on Steam rather than from Futuremark's website - the "Professional Edition" is really for benchmarking websites or large organisations, it's very expensive at just under $1500 and is basically overkill for any home user. The differences between the free Basic version and the paid Advanced version are detailed at the bottom of the main page linked above, but essentially the paid version gives you access to 5 TEST suites instead of 3 (the additional two test suites are storage which is very useful, and applications which uses MS Office and Adobe Creative Suite if you have it installed), lets you run the battery life test, lets you run individual tests from each suite, gives you some pretty graphs to look at, and finally lets you save your results offline. PCMark is fairly real-world in its testing as it uses actual applications such as LibreOffice and a web browser to test performance doing a set of scripted tasks such as loading web pages and creating documents. There are some basic 3D tests in there as well, nothing overly demanding. Overall it's a good test suite IMO, with the main downsides being that one of the most useful tests is not free, the long run-time for each suite of tests (expect 20 minutes for the shortest), and the hefty download size - it's nearly 3GB.

3D performance/gaming

3DMark - also by Futuremark, this is probably the most well-known synthetic 3D benchmark suite. There's a free version available to download from the website, or again as with PCMark there's a "Professional Edition" aimed mainly at reviewers, and an "Advanced Edition" available to buy on Steam or from Futuremark's website which gives you graphs, some more tests, much more customizability on each available suite, and the ability to loop the benchmarks for stability testing.

Unigine Heaven - this is a few years old but still relevant today as it uses DX11's tesselation features to really push your GRAPHICS card's performance on higher settings. There are several ways to run the Heaven benchmark - it can either continuously run, showing your FPS and other stats, or there's a benchmark MODE to give you a score for your system. The free version does both of these MODES and also lets you customize the settings, e.g. the detail, resolution and how much tesselation to use - whereas the paid Advanced version includes the ability to loop the benchmark mode, automate Heaven from the command line and produce reports in CSV format. There's also a Pro edition which is unnecessary for most users. Heaven is useful as a stress-testing tool if you suspect your graphics card may have an issue, as well as for comparing benchmark results against similar cards to make sure your card is performing properly.

Unigine Valley - from the same company as Heaven, Valley is a newer benchmark which isn't focussed on tesselation, instead it's set outside so you have volumetric lighting, ambient occlusion, dynamic weather, and procedural object placement. The Basic/Advanced/Pro editions are the same as Heaven in terms of what features they give you, so for most uses the Basic version gives you everything you need as you can run the test continuously or perform benchmark runs.

CPU/RAM

I've grouped CPU and RAM benchmarks together because often the performance of one will affect results from the other.

Asus/ROG Realbench - this does have an element of GPU performance too, but it's mainly CPU and RAM-bound. Realbench uses open source applications bundled with the benchmark to give you real-world performance result. The benchmark generally takes around 15 minutes to run, and will stop if you move the mouse or press a button on the keyboard whilst it's running, this is to prevent alterations or tinkering. It's 100% free and you can loop the benchmark to use as a stability test. The leaderboard section lets you compare your scores to others, the only slight issue is that by ROG's nature, most results are from fairly high-end systems, so sometimes it's difficult to find a system that compares to yours unless you too have a recent-ish high-end system. Realbench is also 64-bit only, because...well, from their FAQ "We made the conscious choice to focus on a 64-bit version only. We believe everyone should be running a 64-bit OS these days considering modern GPU/DDR3 memory capacities. Equally, we’ve not tested it on antiquated XP-64, and since less than 1% of our site visitors use Vista, we’ve solely focused on Win 7 and Win 8/8.1."

Superpi - a very simple, single-threaded benchmark that just calculates Pi to the number of digits specified. It's useless for comparing multi-core performance, obviously, and not that great for most stability testing, but it can be a useful tool nontheless.

Y-Cruncher - this is a multi-threaded tool which can be used for benchmarking and/or stress testing. It calculates Pi and other constants, some of the larger calculations will require a lot of RAM and therefore there's even a "swap mode" to enable usage of one or several storage devices as swap space. Thanks to DaveLembke for the recommendation.

wPrime - another simple tool which calculates square roots. This is multithreaded so it can be a good indicator of raw CPU/RAM performance as well as a simple stability test.

MaxxMem2 - this is a very small and simple memory benchmark which gives you scores for copy, read, write, and latency. I sometimes get an error on launching this, not sure if it's because I have more RAM than it's expecting, or that I'm on Windows 10 which isn't officially supported, but it works fine the second time I launch it - worth mentioning in case anyone else runs into this.

MaxxMem2 Multi - very similar to the above but it seems to use multiple channels.

AIDA64 - formerly Lavalys Everest, this is a shareware product that gives you a whole lot of information about your PC - specs, hardware monitoring, sofwtare and so forth - but also has a great benchmark utility under Tools - Cache and Memory Benchmark. Some readings aren't available in the trial version but it's still a very useful benchmark.

Storage

CrystalDiskMark - one of my favourite disk benchmarks, before I go on I'll strongly advise downloading the portable edition (zip) and extracting the files to run from there - the full installer version has at some points contained other programs bundled with it, this isn't true for all versions but the portable edition avoids any risk of this. CrystalDiskMark is a good test for any kind of storage, whether it's a HDD, SSD, SSHD, or even a flash drive. There are options to run each test 1-9 times, with data of 50MB-32GB - the default option of 5 passes with 1GB of data should be fine for most uses, but if you're benchmarking slower flash drives or HDDs you may want to reduce this to say, 3 x 500MB, as the test won't take as long.

ATTO - often used by manufacturers along with IOMeter to get their advertised read/write speeds, I've linked to Techpowerup! rather than the ATTO website because I can't actually get a download link from there. Techpowerup is a safe site to get this from at the time of writing (I download tools from there regularly) but as always please exercise caution as it's not direct from the developer's website. ATTO's interface isn't the prettiest as it's quite an old tool, but the results are still very useful.

Anvil Storage Utilities - anoither great benchmark especially for SSDs, unfortunately there's no manufacturer's download link and a lot of versions across the web have expiry dates and/or are older versions. As above, please exercise caution when downloading, I trust Gugu3D to be a reputable provider but I can't guarantee this.

AS-SSD - another great utility, the website is in German and you may have to change the language when you open AS-SSD for the first time. Download link is right at the bottom of the linked page.

HD TUNE - this is basically just for HDDs, I would not recommend running this on an SSD. HD Tune pro is paid software and still being developed, however the older 2.55 version is free on their download page. There's a benchmark with a graph (very useful for diagnostics too, if you see a very spiky graph it's usually an indicator that soemthing's wrong) and an error scanner too, to check for bad sectors. HD Tune also displays SMART info which can be useful for diagnostics.

10.

Solve : Troubleshooting....?

Answer»

Thought it might be a great reference to have all Professor MESSERS' TROUBLESHOOTING links in the one place.......

Troubleshooting Basics

Troubleshooting Motherboards

Troubleshooting CPUs

Troubleshooting Memory

Troubleshooting Bios

Troubleshooting Computer Power

Troubleshooting Adapter Cards

Troubleshooting Cooling Systems

Troubleshooting Printers and Scanners


Troubleshooting Laptops and Portable Devices


Troubleshooting Network Connections


Troubleshooting Security Systems



The video regarding Computer Power may have to be deleted from the list for safety purposes as it does instruct how to test the PSU using a multimeter....I'll leave that up to Nathan or the moderators.



Yeay, Prof Messer, top bloke!

11.

Solve : Hardware work - general tips?

Answer» General Tips for working inside your computer

  • Power the system down. This is of utmost importance. Removing components with the power on WILL destroy your motherboard, if you're lucky only that. Guaranteed.

  • Keep the system plugged in. Off, but plugged in. Electro-Static Discharge (ESD) is static electricity, and we accumulate this every day. However, this is murder to machines. Touching the case when opened will cause ESD to discharge. However, plugging it in with the power off will ground the machine, and the ESD will go safely into the wall.

  • Touch the inside of the CHASSIS before working. Anywhere inside the PC where there is bare sheet metal will do. This will ground the chassis before you do any work, and prevent ESD problems. Another good method of putting you in the clear is anti-static gloves - they're cheap ($5 USD near where I live) and almost any PC store should carry them.

  • Do not HOLD hardware with connecter pins by the pins with your bare HAND. This includes video cards, network adapters, memory and other items with gold-colored pins arrayed in a straight line. Touching them with bare hands can destroy the hardware. However, you should be OK if you brought the hardware over to the machine safely, ground yourself by touching the chassis again, and then handling it with your bare hands. After all, how else are you going to get it in there?

  • Look for screws when removing hardware. NEVER rip a chip or board out of a PC; most of them are screwed in, and the ones that aren't are memory chips held in by tabs (or CPU colling units, which appear to be held on by God's grace alone but are similar to "snap-on" connections). This may seem LIKE a no-brainer, but many people have done just that: rip a board right out (destroying it, of course).

  • If it doesn't fit, DO NOT "make it" fit. Sometimes a memory chip is a tight fit, and some PCI cards are very resistant, but if you are not sure that this is the case, stop work immediately. You will never force a AGP video card into a PCI slot. You cannot force a memory chip into anything but the memory slot. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't go there. Again, may seem like a no-brainer, but some of the things I've seen people do frighten me...

  • If you are trying to troubleshoot, change out only one item at a time. This way, you will know immediately if something is wrong. Test memory one chip at a time. Don't change the memory and the motherboard at the same time; if one is faulty, you won't know which one unless you keep your patience and test one item at a time.

  • On difficult problems, keep aspirin nearby. This may not seem like a necessity, but it is. Frustrating problems will give you a migraine, and it's good to keep that Tylenol at hand.
This LIST does not cover all tips for hardware work and is not a replacement for manuals and actual experience. However, it should cover the basics of making your operations as painless as possible.
12.

Solve : Dell BIOS Update error?

Answer»

Error:

An unexpected error occurred while running the Flash application.
Please reboot and try again.

If the error continues, please contact TECHNICAL help.

Application Error Return: 0x00000610
Windows Error Return: 0x00000002

Solution:
The following information is from:
http://www.dellcommunity.com/supportforums/board/message?board.id=insp_bios&thread.id=42558
by " Dan David"
Quote

Click the Start button, and then click Run.
The Run window appears.
In the text box type regedit, then press the <Enter> key.
The Registry Editor window appears.

NOTE: The User Account Control window may appear. If so, click Continue.


Double-click the folder HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE to expand its contents.
Double-click the folder SYSTEM to expand its contents.
Double-click the folder ControlSet001 to expand its contents.
Double-click the folder Services to expand its contents.
Right-click the DELLBIOS folder and select Delete.
Close all windows and restart the computer for the changes to take effect.
Run the BIOS installer to flash the BIOS.


- Dan David DELL Community Forum Member
http://www.dellcommunity.com/supportforums/board/message?board.id=insp_bios&thread.id=42558


The more information links like this make their WAY across the internet, the less questions you find that are unsolved for the solution, and the better sources you will find
13.

Solve : Set an icon on a folder on a Flash Drive?

Answer» Why this topic?

In this topic I will try to explain how you set an icon on a folder from a removable drive. Because when you configure an icon to a folder on your c:/ drive, and you copy it to a removable drive (example: a flash drive) and you go to another computer, you won't see the icon there...

How can I make that I can see my icon everywhere
First , CREATE a new folder on your desktop (in the example it is called USB, but you can call it whatever you wish). There you will put all your files in... Second, create a new folder (in the folder on the desktop) and name it: ICONS. In this folder, you will place all your icons for you folders. Finally , you create a new folder and you call it: folder with an icon. The structure of all your folder should be like:

+ Desktop
-
- - - + USB
-
- - - - - ICONS
-
- - - - - FOLDER WITH AN ICON

Now search for the icon that you like, and put it in the folder ICONS. After that, you go to the folder called: “FOLDER WITH AN ICON” right CLICK on it . Then, click on properties. Then go to the tab menu: edit. Then click on other pictogram. Then you go to your folder called “ICONS” and click on the icon you selected and saved there earlier .

Now you have an icon to that folder. But if you copy the folder USB to an removable drive, you won’t see that icon… Now I will explain how you make that you can see that icon on a removable drive

Open notepad (start => run => notepad) and click on: file => open… Then you go to your folder “folder WITH AN ICON” and you open it. Normally this folder is empty. However you type desktop.ini (IN THAT FOLDER) and you push the button OPEN. If you did EVERYTHING right: you’ll see the FOLLOWING code:

Code: [Select][.ShellClassInfo]
IconFile=%USERPROFILE%\Desktop\USB\ICONS\your icon name.ico
IconIndex=0
Now, the only thing you’ll have to do, is make sure you don’t search the icon on the desktop, but just under the current folder.

For that you replace the code with:

Code: [Select]IconFile=.. \ICONS\your icon name.ico
IconIndex=0


Now you click on save. If you copy your folder to a removable drive, you will see the icon!

This thread is locked, if you want to ad some things or edit some things, please send a PM to me.

Thanks to: DL65 and DILBERT for correcting my bad terrible english!
14.

Solve : How is a computer so powerful??

Answer» Question:

How is a computer so powerful?

Answer:

Computers are powerful for a variety of reasons. They operate with amazing speed, reliability, and accuracy. Computers can store huge amounts of data and information. Also, computers allow users to communicate with other users or computers.

Speed
In the SYSTEM unit, operations occur through electronic circuits. When data, INSTRUCTIONS, and information flow along these circuits, they travel at incredibly fast speeds. Most computers CARRY out billions of operations a single second. The world's fastest computer can perform trillions of operations in one second.

Reliability and Consistency
The electronic components in modern computers are dependable because they have a low failure rate. The high reliability of components enables the computer to produce consistent results.

Accuracy
Computers process large amounts of data and GENERATE error-free results provided the data input is correctly and the instructions work properly. If data is inaccurate, the resulting output will be incorrect. A computing PHRASE - known as garbage in, garbage out - points out that the accuracy of a computer's output depends on the accuracy of the input.

Storage
With current storage devices, the computer can transfer data quickly from storage to memory, process it, and then store it again for future use. Many computers store enormous amounts of data and make this data available for processing anytime it is needed.

Flame

Article revision: 2/28/09
15.

Solve : Noisy fans?

Answer» The system's FAN (s) is whining loudly.

A loud fan can be the result of a NUMBER of minor PROBLEMS.
The common cause is dirt. A dirty fan, clogged with dust, is highly inefficient and works harder to handle its cooling duties. As the fan struggles to cool the system, it produces the whirring sound. A quick cleaning should do the trick. If the fan is new and you're still hearing a loud whirring, your problem may be "ambient heat." You need to operate your PC in a cool environment. Many PCs get louder as they get hotter, with the fans spinning faster to keep the system cool. Be certain your PC is clean and cool and you'll run trouble-free.

The best and probably easiest method of removing the dust from the fan(s) blades is to PURCHASE a can of dust-off or similar product . Shut down the machine , remove the side cover or the case . Then simply blow out the accumulated dust. A word of caution ......when blowing the dust off the cooling fan (s) stop the blades from turning ..... ( I use a bamboo chopstick ,it works great )
While you have the case open , it's a good idea to blow out any dust that may be present. Replace the case cover or side panel and your all DONE . This should be done at least once a year, more often if your machine is in a dusty enviroment .
16.

Solve : How to install your graphics card ? (pci-e)?

Answer»

OK I thought since I have done this myself many times before I would explain to PEOPLE from my own personal point of view on how it's done .........


Introduction: Make sure you have everything you need, starting with anti-static-wrist STRAP, some Philips non-magnetic screwdrivers, and your graphics card .

Step 1 : Before you install the card you have to know where it goes, now because most people in this day and age have PCI-E cards I will focus on them.... look carefully at image 1 , you will notice i have highlighted a part in green , that part is the port you will be installing your graphics card today

Once you have carefully looked at the image 1, you should then open up your computer now, depending on what brand your computer is, it should be fairly simple, at the back of your computer, you should notice some screws or a catch of some kind, unscrew the screws, or flick the catch and gently slide off the side panel , NOTE: Always be sure that your computer is unplugged from the mains the slightest shock could hurt you and your computer.

Now you have looked at the image carefully, it's time to get a good look at your graphics card. I find studying it before you insert it will achieve optimal results without messing anything up, now I have labelled the card for good measure, you will see I have labelled what inserts into the PCI-E bus , and the main power connector insert as well as the power cable head itself, take a while to familiarize yourself with this image.



Now you have looked and studied both IMAGES, you are ready to insert the card into your computer.

Now make sure you have your anti-static wrist strap on and make sure you're grounded, take the card out of the box, and gently insert into your PCI-Express slot, now be careful not to touch any other components in your computer, there is a part at the end of the card that should hook in first, then you should hear a click to know it's in nice and firm, now find the 4 pin power connector show in the 2nd image, and plug it into the power socket also shown in the 2nd image. Once you have done that, screw the card in look at the image i have shown you, this person is screwing in his card, do the same thing.



Now once you have done that shut your CASE back up, plug your computer back into the mains, plug your TV out socket in and you're set to go, as soon as you have installed it, insert the disc and install your drivers there should be a CD that came with the card.

Thanks for reading , I did take my time to write this all up myself and I also uploaded all the images myself , so I hope this helps.

Tony

17.

Solve : LCD stuck, dead pixels and burn-in?

Answer» Scenarios

1. You notice a small patch of screen is permanently white, most noticeable on black.
2. Same as #1, but it's black and noticeable on white.
3. An area of monitor screen is somewhat darker, or an outline of an image can be seen on the screen

(For the RECORD -- I currently experience #3)

Description

A stuck pixel is a common defect in any LCD monitor. LCD pixels are sub-divided into three sub-pixels: Red, Green and Blue (RGB) (some monitors USE BGR, but this is rare). stuck pixels occur when, for whatever reason, a particular sub-pixel continuously fires as long as the monitor is on. When in any color, it can be hard to see a stuck pixel because it blends with the other colors. However, when exposed to black, the stuck pixel is easy to notice.



(Collected off the Internet.)

Dead pixels are another defect, but with the opposite effect. The pixel in question remains unlit. Dead pixels are easily noticed on white or other light colors. It cannot be seen on dark colors.



(Internet)

LCD burn-in, perhaps the most noticeable, is when an area of pixels is either a little darker than the rest of the screen, or there is an image burned into the monitor.



(Internet)

Possible solution to problems 1 & 3

There is a handy tool called JScreenFix, found at http://www.jscreenfix.com/. It's a neat little Java applet that continually fires random RGB pixels to stimulate the region. An excerpt from their FAQ:

JScreenFix re-energises stuck pixels on LCD screens and removes burn-in from PLASMA screens by randomly switching on and off red, green and blue colour cells very rapidly. The time between on and off is random which helps bring stuck pixels back to life through resonance and repetition.

The site owners claim they can fix 65% of stuck pixels. No figure for burn-in.

This is not a guaranteed solution, but it can HELP and should be tried first; it's free, after all.

There is no cure for dead pixels, however, and CRT monitors are out of luck; different technology entirely.
18.

Solve : Removing/Installing Video Card Drivers?

Answer» Question:

I need to update or remove my video card drivers, but of course, they need to be reinstalled. What are the steps for this?

Notes:

* These steps below may not be exact depending on your card manufacturer and model. I use NVIDIA, so I will be providing instructions for a NVIDIA card. I will also be using Windows XP.

* By this time, I hope you have downloaded (but obviously not INSTALLED) the new drivers for your video card from your card manufacturer's website. Do not continue with these steps until your new drivers are downloaded.

* When downloading/installing drivers it is recommended that you:
  • Turn off any download accelerators
  • While installing drivers turn off all Antivirus and Antispyware software


Answer:

-Download:

1) Go to your video card manufacturer's website (I will be using NVIDIA)
2) Click on the Download Drivers Button
3) You will now be asked for your product type. Use the first drop down box to select the family that your card belongs to. For our purposes in this demo, I'm going to use GeForce. The second drop down box is the product series. This is the second step to narrowing down what series of card you have installed. Click on the second drop down box to select your Series. The third drop down box is the Product selection. This is the last bit of information you need to give about the card --- so that you find the right driver. After that, use the last two drop down boxes to select your Operating System and Language.

-Uninstall:

1) Access the Control Panel by clicking on Start and Control Panel.
2) Click on the Add/Remove Programs icon.
3) Depending on which driver version you are using, your graphics drivers may appear differently in the list of programs installed. These drivers will appear as, "NVIDIA Windows Display Drivers", or as "NVIDIA Drivers".
4) Click on the appropriate listing and click on the Add/Remove button.
5) You will now be asked to confirm the removal. Note that you may see a window appear which should look similar to this:



I did not see this Window myself, but encase you do, I didn't want it to be a SURPRISE. If you don't see the window, please move onto the next step. If you see this Window, click on the bullet point next to "Remove only the following". Once selected, select NVIDIA Display Driver, and click on the Remove button.

Note: You will probably be asked to restart your computer at this time.

-Install:

1) Once the computer has fully booted-up; double-click on the setup file you downloaded earlier.

Note: Your video drivers have been uninstalled and Windows is using generic drivers. You will likely notice that your resolution has changed to become larger and possibly distorted. Do not worry at all --- once you install your new drivers things can be returned back to NORMAL rather easily.

2) Follow the on-screen instructions from this point forward. This is usually just as simple as watching the progress bar, but you may RECEIVE a prompt to do something on your part.

Conclusion:

I hope this article has helped you If you have any questions or comments about this article, please request assistance on the forum. Thanks, and GOOD luck!

Flame

Article revision: 2/28/09
19.

Solve : The Graphics Card FAQ?

Answer» Introduction:

The world of graphics cards is constantly changing, even faster than the rest of the computer industry. This is intended to be a guide to what's on offer at the minute. This guide will be kept up to date if possible, but will inevitably fall behind slightly. Last update: October 24th 2013.

For any specific questions, please create a new thread in the appropriate board, most likely hardware.


Jargon

AMD
AMD is a MANUFACTURER of graphics card chips. These chips are added to other video cards and resold by other manufacturers - for example, you may see an Asus AMD Radeon HD7950 - this is an AMD Radeon HD7950, branded, packaged and supported by Asus.

Nvidia
Nvidia is ATI's rival graphics card manufacturer. Similarly, its cards are rebranded, repackaged and sold by other manufacturers, very seldom by Nvidia themselves, so you may see an EVGA Geforce GTX 780 which is an Nvidia Geforce GTX 780, branded, packaged and supported by EVGA.

GPU
GPU stands for Graphics processing unit - it's the chip on a graphics card that does all the work.

PCI-E (PCI Express)
The standard interface for graphics cards. It offers high bandwidth, meaning higher-performance cards. Most new cards available today are for PCI-E. Also sometimes abbreviated as PCI-X, although this is incorrect.

AGP (Accelerated Graphics Port)
This is the older interface for graphics cards. It provides less bandwidth than PCI-E, and has been completely replaced by PCI-E now. The newest card available for the AGP interface was the HD4670, the fastest was the HD3850. Neither are common, and neither is a cost effective upgrade, ESPECIALLY as they're both quite old and not very fast by today's standards.

SLI (Scalable Link Interface)
This is Nvidia's technology to use two or more graphics cards together for increased performance. All you need are two identical Nvidia cards (the memory size can be different but the core must be the same) and a motherboard that supports SLI. Most modern motherboards with more than one PCI-E slot will support SLI.

Crossfire
This is ATI's technology to use two or more graphics cards together for increased performance. Identical cards are not necessary but the SERIES must match, e.g. a 6850 and 6870 can be used together, but a 6850 and 6950 cannot. A Crossfire capable motherboard must be used. Almost all modern motherboards with two or more PCI-E slots support Crossfire.

DX11
DirectX 11. This is the newest in Microsoft's DirectX software series. It allows for better, more realistic graphics, but only the newest cards support this. Windows 7 SP1 or Windows 8 is required, earlier versions of Windows do not support DX11. Graphics cards from the AMD HD5850 and Nvidia GTX 4 series and newer support DX11. DX11 is coded in such a way that DX10 cards can run a subset of features, so if a card can run DX10 it can run DX11 games, just not with all the eye candy.

DX10
DirectX 10. This is the previous release of DirectX, supported from Windows Vista onwards. It requires an AMD HD2xxx series of Nvidia GTX 2xx series card or newer.

DDR2 memory
Double Data Rate v2 memory. This is standard system RAM, used on low END video cards as video memory. Cards using this memory will be quite slow.

GDDR memory
Graphics Double Data Rate memory. Currently, there are GDDR3, GDDR4 and GDDR5 variations on the market. Newer versions are faster than older versions.



Graphics cards
Below is a list of graphics cards, from highest to lowest performance. This is not comprehensive, but covers most common cards from around 2006 onwards. Some cards will perform better or worse than others higher or lower on the list in certain applications, this list should only be taken as a general indicator of performance so for any specific questions, please either research or create a thread in the appropriate board, most likely hardware

Radeon R9 290X
GeForce GTX Titan
Geforce GTX 690
Radeon HD 7990
GeForce GTX 780
GeForce GTX 770
GeForce GTX 680
GeForce GTX 590
Radeon HD 6990
Radeon HD 7970 / R9 280X (same card)
GeForce GTX 670
GeForce GTX 760
Radeon HD 5970
Radeon HD 7950
Radeon R9 270X
GeForce GTX 580
GeForce GTX 660 Ti
Radeon HD 6970
GeForce GTX 480
GeForce GTX 570
Radeon HD 7870
Radeon HD 6950
GeForce GTX 660
Radeon HD 7850
Radeon HD 5870
GeForce GTX 295
GeForce GTX 470
GeForce GTX 650 Ti BOOST
GeForce GTX 560 Ti
GeForce GTX 560
Radeon HD 7790
Radeon R7 260X
GeForce GTX 465
GeForce GTX 650 Ti
GeForce GTX 460
Radeon HD 6870
GeForce GTX 460 v2
GeForce GTX 560 SE
Radeon HD 5850
Radeon HD 4870 X2
Radeon HD 6850
Radeon HD 7770
Radeon HD 5830
Radeon HD 4890
GeForce GTX 645
GeForce GTX 550 Ti
GeForce GTX 650
Radeon R7 250
Radeon HD 6770
Radeon HD 5770
Radeon HD 4870
Radeon HD 7750
GeForce GTS 450
Radeon HD 5750
Radeon HD 6750
GeForce GT 640
Radeon HD 4850 X2
GeForce GTX 285
GeForce GTX 280
GeForce GTX 275
Radeon HD 7670
GeForce GTX 260
Radeon HD 5670
Radeon HD 4770
Radeon HD 6670
Radeon HD 4850
Radeon HD 4830
Radeon HD 7570
GeForce GTS 250
GeForce 9800 GTX
Radeon HD 3870 X2
GeForce GTS 240
GeForce 8800 Ultra
GeForce 9800 GX2
GeForce 8800 GTX
GeForce 8800 GTS
GeForce 9800 GT
GeForce 8800 GT
Radeon HD 3850 X2
Radeon HD 3870
Radeon HD 2900
GeForce 8800 GS
GeForce 9600 GT
Radeon HD 6570
GeForce GT 630
GeForce GT 530
Radeon HD 5570
GeForce GT 240
GeForce GT 430
Radeon HD 3850
Radeon HD 4670
GeForce 9600 GSO
Radeon HD 5550
GeForce GT 230
GeForce GT 620
GeForce 9600
Radeon HD 7470
GeForce GT 220
GeForce GT 520
Radeon HD 4650
GeForce GT 610
Radeon HD 7450
GeForce 510
Radeon HD 6450
GeForce 9500
Radeon HD 3670
GeForce 8600
Radeon HD 5450
Radeon HD 2600
GeForce 9400
GeForce 210
Radeon HD 4350
GeForce 8500 GT
Radeon HD 3450
Radeon HD 2400
GeForce 8400