Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

i have recently bought a laptop it has bluetooth and wifi i have an ethernet 4 point PLUG in modem router NEW bought just before laptop and want to know cheapest way to get it connected wirelessly have already bought one item wrongly want to make sure i dont buy wrong thing again
สูตรแทงบอลออนไลน์
Thank in advance.If the router has built-in wifi you're good to GO.  If not, since it was purchased recently, WOULD it be possible to return/exchange that modem/router for one with wifi?

The other route would be to purchase a wireless access point which is a device that plugs into an ethernet port and provides wifi.I think the cheapest way will be to return the router or exchange it with another router online or from your vendor.

Dear Experts

I have got HP LaserJet M5035 MFP Series printer that INITIALLY was able to scan documents to shared folder on 2xDesktops (PC1 and PC2) windows 8

I upgraded PC1 (but not yet PC2) only from windows 8 to windows 10 pro and I tried to copy the same setting as it was on windows 8

Created folder on windows 10 and shared it and edited permission tab and security tab as well

I can access that shared folder on PC1 from PC2 no issue.

On the web interface of the printer when I click on : "Test Folder Access" I get below error message

https://imgur.com/a/YXZbO7s

Unable to reach ’\\VISIONDESKTOP\Kylie_Scans’. Please CHECK the location and make corrections as needed

Thx

As you no doubt remember from previous POSTS ( ), I bought a new ROUTER and moved it to the front of my apartment.

In the back of my apartment, my Galaxy phone picks up the signal nice and strong. My wife's (brand new, bought two days before the new ones were announced) iPhone does NOT pick up the signal nice and strong.

So I was going to hook up my old router in the MIDDLE of the apartment and use it as a repeater.

I'm trying to follow these instructions.

One thing that's stymieing me.

I have my old router plugged into power. It is NOT plugged into the internet.

If I do a factory reset, I can log on through my browser, wirelessly.

But once I change the name and PASSWORD on the router, I can no longer log in! (And, yes, I've gone and re-selected the network in my Network system tray). It shows as "Connected, No Internet", but when I punch in the 192. address, it gives me an "Unable to Connect" screen.

That's weird, right?


(Also - I'm on a Surface Pro 4. I have a USB-to-CAT 5 dongle plugged into the LAN port, but I can't seem to get into the router through that. It just says "Unidentified Network - No Internet".)OK you can ignore this. I think it's because I turned NAT off.

Now the TRICK is - how do I change the router's IP address so I can daisy chain them?

Ugh.

For over a week I have been trying to measure the BANDWIDTH of devices on my home network.
Now I believe that my router is a ORPHAN, it does not conform the the standards used by OTHERS of management. But I might be wrong.

So, my question is this: Are some routers better for doing bandwidth monitoring? I can see the total USAGE of my router, but I can not see the use of individual computers or devices. I want to monitor a XBOX 1 using wireless. I know the MAC address, but so far I have not found a program that can tell me how much the XBOX is using on a DAILY basis.

I have installed PRTG and later found that it needs a special PERL script to read my MOTOROLA router. For me, trying a long PERL script is like pulling teeth.

So I am thinking about using another router for the project.
I understand the D-Link routers are easy to manage. Is that true? Wat about NETGEAR?

 

I have an older model ROKU dongle with HDMI for my older TV set. Works just fine for Netflix. And Amazon and other stuff.
But I have  some movies from another source that I have legally downloaded and want to view them on the TV using my ROKU.c They are all MP4 videos.

I tried to Google this and the explanation i got really was hard to understand,  the text was LONGER than Rip Van Winkle's beard.
https://support.roku.com/article/208754908-how-do-i-use-roku-media-player-to-play-my-videos-music-and-photos-

Has anybody here done this? Is there a simple easy way to do it? 
It just says that if your Roku has a USB port, PUT your MP4s on a pendrive/memory STICK and insert it into the port. The Roku device NEEDS Roku Media Player to be installed.

I have no idea where to turn to, even after hours/days searching for a solution; so I turned to asking ANYONE for help.

My internet has been disconnecting for a few months now, off and on. It's at RANDOM times, just out of the blue. The lights on both my router & modem, are all on/the color they're suppose to be. I've tried getting two technicians sent out, they couldn't find the problem. They didn't check the wires outside or ANYWHERE else. I've been checking my router logs, nothing suspicious except: [WLAN access rejected: incorrect security] showing up multiple times, which I know means someone is TRYING to CONNECT to my network but is failing... I bought a new router, tested it for a week, same issue. Returned it and got another one, still happening.. I've factory reset the router, reset the modem, different cables, etc... Still.. Nothing.. If anyone has an helpful tips or possible tests I can do, PLEASE let me know. This is getting out of hand.

I have a NETGEAR R7000P, I'm with spectrum, & I have their 1GB Modem (I forgot the model). I live in an apartment complex, too(if that makes an difference).

My FRIEND USES mobile broadband with SIM card.I have BROUGHT my wifi dongle to him so that he can use his mobile broadband from the dongle to the TV is it EVEN possible?

So I'm going to go ahead and put in a new ROUTER. If I use the same SSID, IPv4 address, and password, will existing devices recognize it automatically? Or will I need to sign everything in again?Wireless devices will connect WITHOUT reconfiguration.Thanks. That was TRUE of most devices, but not my teevee. Maybe because it was a jump from 2.4 to 5?

Thanks!Most 5 GHz wireless ROUTERS have support for 2.4 Ghz as well.Yeah, but I named the 2.4 network something different.... So that may be it. Anyway, all good.

Curious if my router could have been targeted.

I have a LINKSYS Smart WIFI AC1200 Router which I set up changing the default password and wifi was locked down with security. No problems with it for 2 years now. Its survived power OUTAGES and some resets that we have done to it when the BROADBAND MODEM was acting up and everything brought back online in order of modem first then router.

My daughter told me last night that the internet wasnt working. So I went and shut it all down brought modem online and then router online and still no internet. Tried again and still no internet. Tried to remote into router and it was as if the router was completely offline yet it had its normal LEDS lit on it.

It wasnt until I held the red factory reset button in and set it back to factory that i was able to get it all working again, and set up the tight security of it.

What bothers me is that it didnt come back to life working as it should have after a reboot of it and it wasnt until factory reset that it started behaving again.

So I was wondering if anyone knows of a place to go online to see what routers have what vulnerabilities as for maybe this one was targeted and bricked by a hacker somehow as for a power reset should have gotten it back up and running vs having to reset it back to factory?

I checked the firmware of it and it says its up to date as well. I have a second router ready to go if its a hardware failure and I need to switch over, but a hardware failure to me would be a permanent error and not one that is corrected by a factory reset.I find it unlikely that any kind of hacker would be attacking and bricking random consumer home routers.

Personally, I'd be more likely to blame corruption with some of the data that is stored in the router that gets cleared via a factory reset.

Hello BC ... Thank You for your response to this. I found out LOOKING further today that the Linksys AC1200 is actually a model EA6100. And to my surprise today I discovered it is one of the vulnerable Linksys models as found at link below:

https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/security/would-you-like-a-backdoor-with-that-linksys-router-sir/

Vulnerable Router List:

WRT Series
WRT1200AC
WRT1900AC
WRT1900ACS
WRT3200ACM

EAxxxx Series
EA2700
EA2750
EA3500
EA4500 v3
EA6100
EA6200
EA6300
EA6350 v2
EA6350 v3
EA6400
EA6500
EA6700
EA6900
EA7300
EA7400
EA7500
EA8300
EA8500
EA9200
EA9400
EA9500

Quote

Linksys routers affected by three major issues

IOActive, who published a report on their blog, restrained from publishing any technical details about how an attacker could exploit the three issues, but only vaguely described them. The issues are as follow.

(1) An attacker can send malformed requests to the router that causes a denial-of-service state which freezes or reboots the router until the attacker stops his malformed requests.

(2) An attacker can bypass authentication procedures and collect information on the router and its users, such as firmware version, Linux kernel version, a list of running processes, a list of connected USB devices, the WPS PIN for the Wi-Fi connection, firewall configurations, FTP settings, and SMB server settings.

(3) An attacker can execute code on the router. One of the uses for this flaw is that it allows an attacker to create a secret root-level backdoor account that does not appear in the router's web-based configuration panel.

Hi,

So my problem is that my download speed is okay (actually higher then it used to be) but since one month my internet is just really SLOW. I can mostly watch youtube in 240p to max 480p and pages take ages to load. This issue OCCURRED SLIGHTLY after we installed a new modem.  I searched everything online but couldn't find ANYTHING.

-My pc specs are good
-Mbps is 9-12
-Upload is 0.9
-ping is around 20

I've tried turning my router/modem on and off but is doesn't do anything. I also changed my DNS to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 but that didn't do anything either.
Another issue I have is that I can't here friends normal on discord. I hear them very laggy and robotic, but they can hear me fine. Discord also tells me that my connection is fine.

Does anyone know how to FIX this issue?

Hi! I have an issue with my ISP here in our country. The major problem we have is very unstable, slow and constant intermittent/dropping of CONNECTION. I have a single modem from an ISP, however, I needed to have a continuous internet without interruption. I needed this for my homebased job and the only problem is I am constant daily video conferencing with my client and I need an uninterrupted connections. I would like to consider subscribing a backup ISP from another provider/company and switching LAN cables every time I have an issue with my primary ISP is not convenient.

My question is, are there any technique, ideas, device where I can integrate 2 modems into my single computer, so that whenever my primary ISP/connection is down or unstable/intermittent, my backup ISP /internet connection will substitute the connectivity without unplugging my primary LAN cable and switching to my backup LAN cable for my 2nd ISP? 

As I've mentioned, I needed a stable connections, switching from my primary to my backup ISP is a HASSLE and a bad thing that it will interrupt my connectivity.

Are there any solutions for my concern? if there is a answered or related topic about this, please PROVIDE me the LINK. thanks

In the interface of my router WITHIN the security logs it is showing constant vecna scans, ping of deaths, SYN floods, UDP floods and storm of death attacks on my WAN IP consistently. It has been for a longtime now. I have even changed routers at different times but still the issues continue. They are coming from very random different ip's. I am assuming they are probably spoofed. I went through a terrible ordeal a few YEARS ago and my privacy was severely violated by a stalker. It was confirmed as legitimate and was a serious offense. It was a very traumatic experience for me. These attacks may actually be normal and expected. But after you have experienced SOMETHING like what I have it is very hard to ever feel secure again.

On my HOME network I currently have a PS4, 2 iphones, a Samsung tablet and a roku connected to my internet.

I do have a few very accurate screens shots that I have included. This may be something that is harmless. It could be just between the devices within my local network. I would just like to know its ok if someone could help me. Thanks.I wouldn't worry about it, any device SITTING publicly exposed to the internet (like your router) will constantly get things like this as attackers scan the internet for potentially vulnerable devices.  It's highly unlikely that any of this is targeted, it'll just be wide scans of IP ranges looking for things.

I RECENTLY purchased an HP 17z laptop and instead of using the wireless feature, I hooked it up directly to the router. The problem is, it sees the ethernet hookup but won't tie to the internet with it. It acts like it wants to hook up with the wireless network (Router) I have. I would rather use the hardwire hookup at home and the wireless away from home. What do I need to do?You need to do network setup in Windows 10.
Or else just let it use the wireless.
For a laptop the wireless is the default choice, logically.
From CH archives:
How do I find what network card and network I'm using?
How do I set up my own home network?

Try those and see. 
This doesn't help me, I already have my network set up. I found the information about things in the Control Panel after I first turned on the laptop. I appreciate the response and advice but I'm still in the dark about getting it to use the Ethernet cord coming from the router. It sees it but doesn't want to use it.

I searched around and found this, let me know what you think. It's after 1 AM and I've had a rough day. I will try to mess with it later.
https://www.fairfield.edu/media/lib_connectingusingethernet.pdfAre you using Windows 10?
You SAID it is a new laptop, so it would have Windows 10.
You must do the Windows 10 thing.
Do EVERY step.
Do not skip a step.

That link looks like Windows XP, not Windows 10.
QUOTE from: jbubb on May 15, 2019, 11:11:07 PM

I searched around and found this, let me know what you think. It's after 1 AM and I've had a rough day. I will try to mess with it later.
https://www.fairfield.edu/media/lib_connectingusingethernet.pdf

Hi everyone.

I recently bought a custom-made computer from a well established business in the UK.

The computer arrived and as I was installing everything ONTO it, the internet dropped out a few times. I thought nothing of it and continued. After a day or two, the dropping out happened more and more until after about 4-6 days, it become unusable.

I contacted the business, and they sent out a new network card. Whilst I was waiting for this to arrive, I tried using a USB adaptor instead of the installed card. This worked fine, until again, after 2 days or so, it started having the same issues and then stopped working completely after a similar amount of time.

The new network card has now arrived and after 2 days, the errors seem to start to be happening again. It has dropped out 3 times now and looks as though to be getting more frequent LIKE before.

I have tried numerous attempts to fix the errors - resetting the adaptor, reinstalling the adaptor, pausing anti-virus, and all the other methods I could find online - but none have made any difference. Using the troubleshooter works okay for the first few times, but as the issue gets worse, it becomes less and less effective. The errors it reports change but most often it is related to a gateway not being available, or there being some form of IP issue.

Perhaps worth noting is that I use my phone as a hotspot as the internet signal is terrible where I have the computer. However, I've tested it, and it works absolutely fine with other devices and whilst the issues are happening on the computer, everything else runs fine. The computer is the only thing to run off the hotspot normally, and the phone has full signal.

In terms of what happens with the computer when the error is happening - the webpage refuses to load, shows no connection, and after a few moments the little yellow triangle APPEARS over the WiFi signal. For the first few days, it will reconnect after troubleshooting, however as time goes on, it refuses to reconnect and just sits there trying.

Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this?

The basic computer specs are as follows:
Windows 10 PRO
AMD Ryzen 5 2400G with Radeon Vega Graphics
16GB RAM

Thank you for your help,

MichaelWell I'm not a network expert, but while we wait for one to respond let me say this: It does not sound like a computer problem, but rather a signal problem. I read everything you said and do understand that it's only the computer that exhibits the issue, but there really isn't much involved with a WiFi connection that is computer based beyond the adapter. And since you've tried both a usb adapter and an internal card, in my mind that rules out the computer.  I'm guessing you don't have an Ethernet connection you can test it with, only WiFi?

Again, that's just my opinion - there are much more knowledgeable network folks whom I'm sure will JUMP in. Just didn't want your post to go unanswered for too long.Hi

As you are using a CELLPHONE as a hotspot can you give us the model of phone. Also are you sure your phone service provider allows hot spotting?

Things to check on the phone.
There is at lest 2 gb free memory if not you will need to keep clearing the phones cache like every few days.
Make sure the phone hotspot is has only ipv4 not ipv6 selected.
Also check your wifi settings, timeout and if there is the option to never turn off then select it and keep wifi on during sleep needs to be selected.

Also you can use the phone as a hotspot thru usb and not use the wireless if you can get a good data signal where your computer is.Hi,

Unfortunately, my computer is in an outbuilding of my house that has no network connections. I'm trying to test all possible options before taking everything back into the house. We also have a limited broadband connection which doesn't help matters!

The phone is a Samsung Galaxy S10. I used it loads and in exactly the same fashion with an older laptop before my computer came and had no troubles whatsoever. It seems to be limited to this computer for some reason.. There is plenty of space on the phone, although I'm not sure about the ipv4/6 thing - I don't see an option for it?

Do you think it could it be a hardware issue of the computer itself?

Thanks for all your help,

Michael

On an HP all in one desktop running Windows 10. GETTING 'access  denied' message when ATTEMPTING to GO to certain websites that we have gone to before to make purchases and or payments. Examples are Carnival, Wards, Old Navy. We have swapped out our Spectrum (internet provider) router/modem TWICE in the past two weeks and we can access these sites for a day or two and then it goes back to access denied. Have ran numerous virus and malware scans and a bot scan and all came back clean. Curious if you have TRIED using a different browser other than edge such as Firefox to try to get to these sites and have same results or not?

This question is for everyone. 
Please relate whatever you know about this topic.
I have already done some searches and have become very sad. 
It seems that the big data business tells about data usage. So a number of savy IT guys did there own testing and found the company would charge them even when the modem was disconnected from the cable. 
Other than Xfinity/Comcast raising my bill recently by $28.75 I haven't seen any data usage fees yet.

For monitoring how much data was being used with my Windows 7 systems I use to use a Network Monitor Gadget that showed how much data has been uploaded and downloaded. I then could keep an eye on usage of my computers which used the majority of the bandwidth.

More recently, I used a TOOL that allows Windows 7 gadgets to run under Windows 10. ( Even though Microsoft Killed off Gadgets due to security vulnerability.) http://win10gadgets.com/network-meter/

I have yet to find a router that tallies data usage.

Only method I can think of to TALLY data would be to setup 1 system as a gateway with ICS  ( Internet Connection Sharing ) where that computer has 2 network adapters in it and works between 2 routers. One network connection that CONNECTS to the internet to the first router for hardware level firewall security, and the other connection from the PC that connects to a second router with shared internet connection. That computer that works in between the router using a gadget to keep an eye on upload and download use. The gadget can be easily reset and start back at 0 for both stats whenever you want it to, such as monthly. You could then keep an eye on what your actual usage is including any data usage that the computer acting as a gateway uses for Windows updates etc.

Here is info on ICS ( Internet Connection Sharing ) for Windows 7. https://www.home-network-help.com/windows-7-internet-connection-sharing.html

I haven't used ICS since Windows XP but its PRETTY simple to setup.

Only drawback to this setup is that you have the additional electricity cost and a small amount of added latency. If you have a low powered computer like a laptop the electric bill cost of having a system running as an ICS Gateway wouldnt be that bad at around 45 watts average. A desktop computer can be between 45 watts and 125 watts depending on what processor you have running and whatever else it may be doing in addition to being idle and passing packets through it as a tally.My (UK) Virgin Media "Super Hub" supplied router, a rebadged Netgear model, SHOWS usage history since last power cycle:

Hello,

So, I will be in the middle of playing a game and will randomly disconnect and it shows that I have no internet access. However if i just simply switch the plug the ethernet cable is plugged into on the extension lead then it will connect be back instantly.

Any ideas what the problem could be? Quote

Any ideas what the problem could be?

What Cat x cable did you run? Should be printed on the cable.
Ethernet cable is limited to about 328 feet but I doubt that you run is anywhere near that distance - correct?
However a poor quality cable or plugs can impact performance. If the performance is good when working then I continue to suspect a break or near break on one of the conducting wires.
Any kinks, hard bends, or twists in the long Ethernet cable?
Does the Ethernet cable run along any electrical wires on its path from router to room? Or go near any large electrical appliances?
Did you use any nails, staples, or other fasteners to secure the cable run?
No abrasions, chew marks, bare metal showing along the way?
If possible, temporarily move your computer closer to the router to try other shorter Ethernet cables. Or likewise, so to speak, try another WIRED computer in your room.
Determine if the problem stays with the computer or the existing Ethernet wire connection.

However if i just simply switch the plug the ethernet cable is plugged into on the extension lead then it will connect be back instantly.

I have a DELL Dimension 4100 desktop. It is hard-linked into the router. The router is a Linksys WRT 1900AC. I have no problems with the other computers connection. The DELL shows I have a connection and the speed is 100.0 Mbps. When I start-up IE 6.0, it will not LOAD. It would say, "page cannot be displayed". I'm using Windows XP Professional with service pack 2. How do I fix this? You need to have the latest update to Windows XP. SP-3.
At some point there was a change, but I don't remember it. Anyhow, the latest  update should fix it.
You will also WANT to get the last version of Firefox or Chrome that supported XP and install that and use that instead of IE. However you may also notice that some websites will complain that the browser is out of date and fail to work with it.

I have pretty much RETIRED my Windows XP systems from Internet use due to the fact that nothing works that i need to use them for online anymore. It all STARTED with Flash Games no longer working because they give an error to install the latest version of Adobe Flash and Adobe dropped support for XP, so there are no updates to getting the games to work with XP. Then other issues with sites started to show with pages loading partially as mainly content like flash was out of date etc.

My XP computers are pretty much shut off these days and saved for offline gaming of older games that have a fit with newer hardware. Although one of the games such as Diablo 1 just recently became available on GoG and it works no with Windows 10, so an even lesser need to turn on the Windows XP system anymore.I'll try all that. Thanks, everyone.It's most likely you are not getting DNS resolved , Like you are wanting google and the computer is unable to get the ip address for google. To confirm use an IP address not a name , googles ip is 172.217.167.68 so type that number into the browser address line. You should see Googles home page, if you can search for things then it is a dns setting.

Hi, I have reinstalled win 7 on a Lenovo Ideapad P580 and the WiFi adapter will not work. It is turned on in BIOS, it is turned on in windows and INSTALLED the latest driver but  I cannot get it to work. I cant even see the icon in the tray. Please help. This is the 2nd Lenovo to do this to me and I couldn't get the last one to work either.2nd to do this? So you returned the first computer and got a replacement and it has the same issue?

One low cost solution may be to buy a USB Wireless Adapter for around $15 to fix this, however if you bought this computer and its covered by a warranty of some kind, i would exercise the warranty to have the seller fix the issue or give money back.Thank you for your RESPONSE. No I didn't return and buy another. I repair computers and this is the second Lenovo that I have reinstalled win 7 on that has done this. Wireless was working perfectly prior to the reinstall of win 7. This case was one of going from win 10 back to win 7.. (clients orders). This other Lenovo was a straight up reinstall of win 7. I have done many of these and Lenovo is the only one that I have had do this.

UPDATE:
I have fixed the issue. I ended up using a program called Driver pack solutions and it installed a driver that was not listed with the drivers INTENDED for this machine. It worked client is happy and I got paid.Thank you for letting us know what fixed the problem.

Just as an aside,

The lenovo you were working on had the option of 3 different wireless adapters. There was the way you fixed it using DRP which is a great tool. Be very careful to only load the drivers not all the other "helpful" tools it seems to want to add. Check the list of what it is installing not once but 2 times. The author also supplies the drivers as a 9 GB download which you can run from a pen drive.

But please note above if you don't want Opera browser driver tool antivirus and others deselect them and then check they are deselected.

If you are having issues getting Lenovo's working, use the Lenovo solution center for diagnostics and Lenovo system updater to get the the most up to date  drivers.  Which is downloadable from here https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/downloads/ds104501

lol yes I found out that tid bit the hard way. The first time I used it I had a bunch of Russian crap infiltrating my browser and other facets of the computer. I have since found out how to use it correctly. It is still my last dash at a fix but I keep it on hand for just such an occasion.

While inspecting new hardware that was installed today by the IT TEAM, I LOOKED over the new hardware and saw 2 short 1ft LENGTH cross over cables on the Cisco Catalyst 2960-X Series Switch and I was like.... what the..?

Knowing there is a purpose to this I figured I would check here to see if there is a reason for what looks to me like communication redirection for 2 routes in this switch, but to me I don't get why a cross over is needed when the traffic itself can all be redirected internally when configured. My thought is that the switch acts as the controller of traffic and packets don't need to be transmitted out one port on a switch and back into another on the same switch for 2 redirects.

Maybe this is something new and the Switch has a feature that is being USED that I haven't seen in other managed smart SWITCHES.

"The 802.11 standard provides several distinct radio frequency ranges for use in Wi-FI communications: 900 MHz 2.4 GHz, 3.6 GHz, 4.9 GHz, 5 GHz, 5.9 GHz and 60 GHz bands and  most WiFi router list two frequencies, usually 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz" this being said  can one pickup Wi-Fi from 20 miles away maybe only in the low frequency's? While WiFi can work over long distances like that, it's not the SORT of thing where you'd just be ABLE to pull out a laptop/phone and connect to an access point 20 miles away.  These long distance links use high power radios on each end where the radios have line of sight to each other.  In a deployment you would usually have a pair of these high power point-to-point radios on top of the buildings to link the two sites together and then within each site you'd have the radio connected to a conventional access point/router that you'd connect your devices to.

This is the sort of equipment you would be dealing with over those distances, it's technically still WiFi but very different hardware from what you'd use to provide a signal within a single building- https://www.ui.com/airmax/powerbeam-ac-gen2/ Quote from: John1397 on March 26, 2019, 05:00:35 AM

"The 802.11 standard provides .... can one pickup Wi-Fi from 20 miles away maybe only in the low frequency's?

On August 26, 2014, the Federal Communications Commission’s (“FCC”) Enforcement Bureau (“Bureau”) released an Order containing a Consent Decree with international equipment importer ASUSTeK Computer Inc. (“ASUSTeK”), wherein ASUSTeK was ordered to pay a $240,000 fine for violating the FCC’s rules and a provision of the Communications Act of 1934 (“Act”) governing the authorization and marketing of radio frequency (“RF”) equipment. See In the Matter Of ASUSTeK Computer Inc., File Nos. EB-SED-14-00013341, EB-SED-13-00008785, Order, DA 14-1044.
This Order and Consent Decree is another prime example of the extremely stringent Bureau enforcement policies as forecasted by our firm in a previous Client Advisory and Memorandum.

then all frequencies could travel an infinite distance without loss.

Don't they have the inverse-square law in your universe?

I currently am using the default xfinity router and have a NETGEAR Nighthawk R7900. SADLY the router only takes in ETHERNET. Is there a way I can use this netgear router as dominant or is there a way to use the netgear router as an alternate router? The netgear router costed $300 and I don’t want to put it to waste.Recently I replaced my Xfinity router with one made by Motorola.
Talk to Xfinity support, they can PROVIDE a list of replacement routers.
The R7900 also has wireless. You can use it as  an extender for better wireless COVERAGE.

Hi there,

I have Windows 10 as a host.  I can ping the other Win10 VM and my Linux VM from the host.  I can ping from Win VM to hostand to the linux VM.  HOWEVER I can only ping the host from the linux VM.  When I try ping from linux VM to win VM I get nothing.

I have not changed any IP settings at all.  There is clearly an issue and I'm doing something wrong.

Any suggestions?

Rgds,
B10  Is there a firewall enabled, that disabling it might point out to if its being blocked by firewall?

I had an issue a while back with NAT and Virtual Machines. But that was found to be an issue with host computer running IPv6 and the VM's were running IPv4. So also just to check that they are all IPv4 or IPv6 and no blend? My fix was to set the host system to IPv4 and then everything worked fine with other systems calling to the VM's that were IPv4 based behind the host system running them that was using IPv6 from DHCP with VM's that had IPv4 static IP addresses set for them.Hey,

Thanks for the reply.

Not sure WHATS happening here.  I've tried your suggestion and I've set host to IPv4 only.  Set both VM machines to IPv4 only and still the same.

Both VM's are set to be the same network and have the same default gateway yet only one of them can ping both host and Linux .  The Linux VM can still only ping the host machine.  The only thing that seemed odd was that when I RAN route-n the default gateway was set to 0.1 instead of 0.2 but I changed that to be the same but it had no affect on the outcome.  Don't suppose you can think of anything else. 

Rgds,
B10Have you shut off Software/OS firewall to see if this is cause of no ping response?

Some anti-DDoS measures are used to not reply to Pings.Hey Dave,

YEAH I tried that and it never worked.  However.... I forgot about the Win 10 VM lol  I switch off the firewall and the Linux VM can now ping the Win 10 VM.  The Linux VM stopped pinging the host but for some reason rest default gateway but I changed that and all is okay now.  Everything pining everything.

Thanks for the help, appreciate it !!

Rgds,
B10Sweet

Dear Experts

Friend of mine ask me if I can connect a main wireless router which is connected to the internet ADSL and it is located inside his house to a secondary wireless router which is supposed to be used in the backyard of the house where his workshop to be able to use the internet and connected two wired PRINTERS (i.e not wireless) to the second router.

Yes I know how to connect those wireless router via Ethernet cable and he won’t to use Ethernet cable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nTgQQbF9zo

The above YouTube back 2010 (bit old) showing how to connect wireless router to wireless access point (not router) without cable

Does that mean I need the second DEVICE to be wireless access point not wireless router

I need to find out details for those two wireless routers

ThanksBeen there,done that. 

Yes, you can use devices to make a wireless bridge. But the limits are set by the first router. If the first router does not allow it, then you will have to do more work. Using a wireless bridge may/will reduce the throughput for every wireless device on the system. That is why the first router  might not allow it.

So the layout might be like this:

First router, DSL with Wi-Fi and Ethernet with cable to second router.
Second router has wireless bridge to third  router.The two must be the KIND that allow this sort of thing. They share the same channel for wireless.

A pair of devices made just for this implication go for about $100 to $200
Do you need a list of cheap devices that might work just as good? 
What you'd usually use is a second access point that supports "Station" or "Client" mode, you'd set this up to connect to the main network and then connect devices to the AP's Ethernet port (using a switch if more ports are required).

It has nothing to do with the main router needing to support it, if the existing router allows regular wireless devices to connect, then there's nothing stopping you connecting an additional AP acting as a client.  Not sure what Geek is saying about it reducing throughput, it won't be any worse than having an additional regular wireless device (laptop, phone.etc) connected.

Some wireless *routers* may also support these modes although strictly speaking what you're LOOKING for is an "access point" as you won't be using any routing functionality on the wireless client end, all that would still be provided by the main router.  If you had a *router* that supported this functionality, using it would essentially turn it into an access point anyway.Dictation.
In my first post I do not clarify all the different possibilities that might be in used to make up a bridge connection. And I did not know exactly what the original poster wanted. He said the connection without using ethernet, which is nearly impossible.
There is a mode where you can use several routers together without any ethernet connection, but he's not going to be able to do that because he has already a DSL modem that will not support that mode.
What you offered is not much different than what I suggested. In any case, somewhere there has to be an Ethernet connection between at least two routers. In the extreme case he might even have to go to using for routers connected together in a mix of wireless and Ethernet bridges. The original poster needs to clarify just how much effort is willing to put forth to achieve his goals. There are many ways to get the an Ethernet cable through a wall or under a rug or through a very SMALL opening. But he indicated that he wants to go wireless without any Ethernet, which he did not clarify. If two routers are cooked together but it just 18 inches of Ethernet, it's still an Ethernet connection.
The mode that is not going to be able to move use is called the "Ad Doc " mode.  Otherwise, anything else is going to require a little bit of Ethernet somewhere.
END. 
EDIT: There are many posts in the CH archives on "Wireless Bridge"
The OP needs to clarify exactly what he needs and can afford.
Thanks Geek-9pm
Quote

He said the connection without using ethernet, which is nearly impossible.

I have used over a TB of data this month. And the month is not yet over.

It might be somebody hacked my Wi-Fi password.
Or on of my extended family has a torrent running. 

For the first item,I changed both my SID and password. 
Now how can I stop any torrent activity? This is rather delicate. Telling him  no does not do much good. He just doesn't understand what torrents do. So, how do I stop or reduce torrent activity? Do I need another kind  of router?

I think I used to know how to do it. Twenty years ago. I forgot.
Any suggestions?   
There is no realistic way of doing so, unless you want to block everything except port 80 and port 8080, which will affect a lot of other stuff.

Quote

It might be somebody hacked my Wi-Fi password.

Procedure to build a MAC whitelist on a DD-WRT router:

Log into the router.
Click “Wireless… MAC Filter”
Click “Enable” on “Use Filter:
Click “Permit only clients listed to access the wireless network” on “Filter Mode”
Click “Save”, Click “Apply Settings”
Click button “Edit MAC Filter List”
In the pop-up you can enter up to 256 MAC addresses.  The MAC address for your device can usually be found in the settings of the network or WI-FI depending on device.  The format is six HEX addresses separated by a colon. Example: 08:00:69:E2:01:FE
Click “Save”, Click “Apply Settings

It is hard to see how I could go over my limit of a terabyte before the end of the month. But Comcast says I have. I spoke with tech support.

Good morning.
I am moving for a few weeks in a house that doesn't have WIFI and I am trying to find a solution to get data access on my computer as I need to work from home.
My phone plan does not offer a feasible option to hook that up as hotspot as the max plan is 5gb and I think I need much more than that. ideally unlimited as I do a lot of remote desktop and virtual conferences.

Is there any hotspot which offers a unlimited (or HIGH amount) of data month to month (no contract for a year or so as I only need to 6 to 8 weeks) for no more than $100/month?

Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
AnnaHi Anna

Before deciding on what plan to use could you check your current data usage.
To do this, search in Windows 10 for Data usage and it will show you how much you have used in the last 30 days. There is the option on the page to see the usage by app as well.

What wireless options do you have in the new area ?.Thank Lisa. Yes I had LOOKED at that, but I have actually had this computer for just a couple of weeks, and had to sync my data so I am not sure I can trust that. I do see about 12GB on chrome but i also see 90GB on back up and sync (GOOGLE drive) which I GUESS it was just due to the new laptop. In any case, I'm confident I'll need over 50GB a month to feel comfortable.

I want to have wifi at home where I'll be leaving, there is good LTE. From my personal search (as pretty ignorant gal on tech) I feel my best option would be to get a hotspot for cheap through freedompop for example, and then get a month to month plan from Sprint which seems to have a month to month for $65 at 100GB...

...unless someone has a better suggestion...

thanks
Anna

Sitting and playing with the ABILITY to create a Remote desktop of my Win 10 PC on my iPad over the hotspot. I have installed a VNC server on the PC and a VNC Viewer on the Ipad, put hotspot on and then connected the ipad` to the PC`s hotspot. And it seems to work fine, I can easily control my PC from my Ipad. But when I then remove the network connection to my PC, my VNC connection stops working, even though the Ipad still has connection to the PC via the hotspot. It seems that VNC can't work if it doesn't have the internet, any suggestions to work this out ?

Try stopping and STARTING the VNC Service on the Ipad first and see if this FIXES it. If you DONT know how to do it on the Ipad just shutdown the IPad and start it back up fresh and see if you can then connect to the PC.

If the PROBLEM remains, then try the same on the PC either restart the VNC service or perform a system reboot and see if that fixes it.

Whichever system that has its VNC service restarted that fixes the issue would be the culprit of which system is in a hung state after session ended.Nothing of that work out for me, so I install The apps Remote desktop on my Ipad, and allowed Remote desktop on my pc, now it works 😃Cool to hear that you found a work around with Remote Desktop.

Network MAGIC is a SOFTWARE tool that once was BUNDLED with D-link routers.
Is there a free version?
Do you know of free alternatives tart do ALMOST the same thing?
Here is a download, but I have not tried it.
https://network-magic.en.softonic.com/
Have you ever used it?
I do not have a D-link ROUTER as my main router, so I am not sure if it will work.
Any suggestions welcome.

Dear folk

My home network SETUP is LinkSys router WRT1900ACS with MOBILES and desktop computers connected wireless and wired

For my desktop if an ip assigned automatically router shows the desktop’s name as per the snapshot below :

https://imgur.com/a/6h385zs

If the static ip address assigned router shows asterisk as per below :

https://imgur.com/a/aYxPBMo

How the name can be shown when static ip assigned ?

ThanksRouter  DHCP reservation settings? Host name?Thanks Salmon
By hostname I guess you meant this which was already assigned
https://imgur.com/a/dwluJDI I mean you go in your router DHCP Reservation settings and set up a FIXED IP address and there is SOMEWHERE you type in the name you WANT.

https://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=138251




I see
Thanks
I will try that and see how it goes

Hi guys, i accidentally reseter WiFi router a week ago. I might be able to solve this but i lost my laptop tho and the only thing i have IS my android phone.. I tryed to somehow connect to router and i renamed WiFi, choosed psw and so on.. But it says theres no internet connection when i connect to IT..  I might be dumb but please can someone tell me what to do step by step? 😊😳

(also excuse my english im Czech) WizieCZ,
This forum can help you. Burt you must provide more derail.
Make and model of the router?
What kind of SMARTPHONE or computer do you have?

Many routers have the reset default details printed on a label underneath the router.
Example:
If your router is a D-link, it might be this model:

Here is the web site that explains how to get control of that model:

Resetting your D-Link DI-624 router to the factory settings
Quote

If you have forgotten your router's user name or password, you must reset the router to the factory settings to access the configuration utility. You can't update any security settings unless you know the user name and password and can access the router's configuration utility.
    Note: Resetting your D-Link router clears all of your home networking settings.
To reset your D-Link router:
    With the power on (Power LED on front panel should be lit GREEN), use the pointed end of a paper clip to press and hold the Reset button for 10 second

I'm running Windows 10 (version 1809 on both machines - 1 laptop / 1 desktop). When I try to SHARE from my desktop PC to my laptop, my laptop is found (see 1st IMAGE 'MikeHP2000') and the FILE transfers correctly.

But when I try to share from my laptop to my desktop PC, my desktop PC is not found. (2nd image).

To the best of my ability I have all the file SHARING settings exactly the same for both machines.
As far as I can see all of the Windows Defender firewall settings are the same on both machines.
I'm not very knowledgeable about networking stuff so any help is appreciated. Update: The desktop PC is now being found by the laptop but no window pops up on the desktop PC in order to ALLOW me to accept the file transfer like it does on my laptop. Where do I enable this incoming file notification popup? I my "Settings > Notifications and Actions page, all notifications are enabled.

Hi

Im on a network and use a IGEL to connect and use 2 monitors.  I open Skype/Outlook/ Excel/ Internet and when using excel I keep getting program is not responding and crashes and also internet EXTREMELY slow.

Reading about IGEL I BELIEVE they not got enough CPU?    My main network server is about 23 miles away.

Would it help if I was to use a desktop PC and connect to network via CITRIX that way?

We have a MODEM CONNECTED to CHARTER Communications.  The ROUTER I had died after 14 months.  Would it be better to consider a cable router and  not use the furnished modem, or just buy another router?Buy another router.

I had a NetGear N750 which lasted about 14months.   (a gift)   Now I need to purchase a replacement and feel totally lost.  A basic router for a small home but should have   VPN.   Reading reviews  I shudder at the NUMBER of companies with zero company support.  (Experienced that when trying to contact Netgear)  Does Linksys have a basic router with VPN (under 125.00)  They seem to have a better perspective on customer support.  Any suggestions to search for would be greatly appreciated.   It's very UNLIKELY that any large hardware manufacturer is going to provide free (useful) telephone support in this day and age i'm afraid.

Overwhelmingly likely that you'll be DIRECTED to online self-help portals to resolve and teething problems.

With that in mind, i'd be inclined to go with the recommended CHOICE from Amazon that meets your price point and ASSUME the support will be the same across the board.

My re-enactment group has had multiple websites in the past and now has a new one but our old websites still remain up. The person who took control of them is now dead and we no longer pay anyone to run the websites anymore but they are still working. No one in the group is really amazing with tech and we have no clue how to remove these websites. If its hosted for free and you have a registered domain name then, I am thinking if your unable to contact the web host and have them bring it offline that waiting for the domain name to lapse by not paying to renew it is one WAY to wait for it to go offline when the domain name is no longer registered.

Other thing is that if this person still has a spouse or someone who has his computer, if he had stored passwords to the web host for the website, then with access to his system if someone knows the password to logon to it, that you could go to the web host website and make changes, however someone would need to have the skills necessary to edit the website such as replace the index.html web page with a page that states that this website is no longer hosted and possibly links for visitors to click to go to whatever websites are still active.We haven’t paid anyone for coming up to 7 years now and the website is still active and no one knows why we have no idea what company made this website and the person who owned it has no children who could go through his passwords are there any other options ?Look up the Registered Domain name and see when it expires and buy that domain to take ownership of the domain name. Once you do that you can take ownership of the domain and shut it down as its now legally yours.

This is also a trick that some have done in the past to buy a domain name lease that the ownership lease on its name expired/lapsed and they pay to register that domain name and hold the domain name RANSOM to a company or INDIVIDUAL to have to buy it back from WHOMEVER bought a domain name lease when a company or individual was sloppy and forgot to renew the domain name lease. 

But in your case it would be to take ownership of that domain name as your own upon expiration and assuming it as your own on or after that expiration date. Places like godaddy support can help with letting you know when a domain name is set to expire even when its a domain that isn't your own initially.

However if this website is freely hosted and subdomained such as some free hosts main domain name with something like the following then its much harder to shut it down and would require contacting the web host of the free usually ad-supported hosting service requesting them to bring it down due to the fact that the owner is now deceased.

Example of subdomained would be like a website with a name of WWW . freewebhost . com / someones_webpage / index.html
(Without the spaces... spaces added to avoid making this an active link.)

I need to extend my local NETWORK Wi-Fi  further.
The Cable router has a IP set at 10.0.0.1 and no way to CHANGE it.
Bu I want to use another router to put Wi-Fi at tieback of my property. We ran a long CAT 5 cable to a D0Link router that is on 192.168.0.1 ad it almost works. But something is not right. Netflix gets an error.
I have never understood why the do the you the 10.xxx.xxx.xxx  range on that router. Most common usage here in the USA is the 192.168.XXX.XXX IP for home network. I read somewhere that all devices on the same network must be in the same subset. So I am confused. 
Is there a way to deal with this? Or should I just go buy a cable modem and use a standard routers? I have old Wi-Fi routers that I can use. A simple naked  MOTOROLA Cable modem is about $35 on eBay and they claim it can do the max speed now used by Comcast. I wonder if that would be the best way to go?
Any ideas? You generally don't want to chain multiple routers like that. Instead to extend your WiFi you should be using a plain access point rather than a router.  You may be able to set your router up as an AP if it either has a mode for it or you can bodge it by disabling DHCP on the second router, connecting to its LAN ports to your MAIN router rather than the WAN port and setting the IP of the second router to be on the same subnet as the main router.What you say is what I am trying.
But the bottle neck  s the Comcast router is stuck on the 10.0.0.1 local IP and there does not seem to be any way  to alter t.

I am going to buy a cable modem/router that works the way I want. 

Dear Experts

I am using Express VPN on my Linksys WRT 1900 ACS to access US Netflix from New Zealand ,,,, and I have to install their firmware

Not all VPN providers can provide access to US Netflix

Not all devices at home are going via VPN traffic only my Roku TV box

https://www.roku.com/en-gb/

Couple of features disabled when I installed VPN Express firmware one of them like :

1- Parental Controls

https://www.askdavetaylor.com/enable-parental-controls-linksys-wi-fi-router/

2- Port forwarding (using that to access my security cameras when I am outside)

Without disabling the Express VPN What SUGGESTION can be done to keep those features as I need them ?Using additional router ?

Thanks

Note : My linksys router WRT 1900 ACS is compatible with DD-WRT firmware
First of all,I am not a router expert. But I get the drift of want you want.
The router you have is popular and does the job for a lot of people.

If getting Netflix over VPN is you PRIORITY, then you need to  talk to the VPN people.
Virtual private network - Wikipedia

What you want might be unlawful in some PLACES. If so, this forum can not help you.
Is using VPN to watch Netflix illegal?
Using a VPN is not illegal. Downloading illegal content is. Illegal content is STILL illegal content at the end of the day. If you are using a VPN and downloading illegal content, then that is illegal, but it's not the use of a VPN that is illegal. -Google search.

That is like saying it is not wrong to put the forbidden food in your mouth, just don't chew or shallow. 

Hi there,

I am trying to set up my personal Plex Media Server so i can access my personal GoPro videos outside of my home network.

I have recently moved out on my own, and am having difficulty setting up port forwarding on my ROUTER/modem, as it appears to be blocked now.

I have very little experience when it comes to network experience. I have tried reaching out to my provider, Shaw (IM in Canada), and they flat-out told me they do not offer advice for this service, despite it being AVAILABLE in the router settings.

It looks like the model of router is an Arris TG3482G.
The firewall has IPv4 and IPv6 options, though i do not know what this is REFERRING to.
Under my Port Forwarding page, i see that it is enabled, and the settings shown are (not even sure if its ok to provide my IPv4/6 connections as i dont know what they are):
HTTP | TCP/UDP | Start Port: 80 | End Port: 80 |

when i use the Open Port Check tool, i get "Error: Could not see your service on **********, reason: no ROUTE to host"

Yes, i have tried to google port forward guides on the specific model, however for my specific case i am not sure how to determine what connection i should use for the Plex server.

If there is any more information i can provide, please let me know and (if you dont mind) please provide in an ELI5-level of explanation. Im not computer-illiterate, just network-illiterate!

Thank you in advance!

Hi, everyone!

Hoping SOMEBODY will facilitate me out with this one!
I have a simple RDS setup of 2 servers. One is the connection broker/gateway etc (RDS001), and the other is the session host (RDS002). These are both Server 2012 R2, in the same OU, with the same GPO's applied.

I am using HP T510 clients (running ThinPro 5.2), with an RDP connection to the farm address (rds.domain.local). The connection is working fine, however usb devices (ie memory STICK) will not redirect to the session host. All the redirection options in the collection properties are ticked. Audio redirects to the client with no problem.

I have ALSO tried connecting directly to the session host (RDS002) with no difference.

I believe the redirect settings on the T510 to be correct, as if i set up another rdp connection from the client to another server or even the connection broker (RDS001) , the usb device i have plugged to the client redirects fine.

So, it seems as though it is only the session host (which is where i actually want to redirect a device to..lol) having this problem.

However, if i connect to the session host from a windows 10 pc, everything redirects as expected - just not from the t510!

Any help appreciated!Well, on your question you can get out of the situation, but it will be expensive. ...With USB for Remote Desktop you can easily overcome any challenges with help usb over ethernet. The program has been developed to access local USB devices in remote session (RDP or Citrix ICA). Being available both for Windows and Linux, Mac OS USB for Remote Desktop will easily redirect any USB device connected to Thin Clients. Quote

I believe the redirect settings on the T510 to be correct, as if i set up another rdp connection from the client to another server or even the connection broker (RDS001) , the usb device i have plugged to the client redirects fine.

Hello,

OS: Windows 10
Connection: Wired, around 10Mbps

I have a problem with my Internet connection.  I'll be watching YouTube, playing a game or browsing the Internet when the Internet just stops working.  My ping skyrockets to 900+ in games, I GET the jumping dinosaur in Google Chrome and that annoying buffering symbol on YouTube.  This 'disconnected state' lasts for anywhere from a few seconds up to a minute.  This also happens every 20-30 minutes or so.  Sometimes I get disconnected from the game I'm playing (like Rainbow Six Siege) which is very annoying because you receive an infraction for doing so.  The symbol on the bottom right of Windows 10 doesn't always show up as 'Disconnected'.  I am playing on a wired connection, although my modem/ROUTER is on ground level (and I'm on the first floor).  This has been going on for the past 1/2 weeks and I hope to resolve the issue.

I appreciate any help,
Thanks in advance,
JokniserousJust this ONE computer having this problem or is the problem your internet connection itself as confirmed that other devices/systems have same problem through this internet connection?

If all devices are having this problem then I would CONTACT your ISP and have them troubleshoot your connection. This should be a free troubleshooting service if its their internet connection to you that is having these problems.

If its just your system and all other devices and systems are fine and so its not the internet connection between home modem to ISP then here is a list of things to try:

1.) New Network Cable connection ( Maybe the cable your using is damaged or has intermittent connectivity issues )
2.) If still having problem with a different cable, switch the cable over to a different port on the router ( maybe the 1 port is having issues on router and you will find ANOTHER port healthy )
3.) Verify that the network adapter your computer is using has up to date drivers. Maybe the network adapter itself is the cause.
4.) Purchase or install an already available healthy network adapter in place of or in addition to your current internet connection and move the cable over to the added in network adapter to see if things behave with a new or good used network adapter.

If still having troubles report back and we can suggest other things to try.

I bought a Tenda N300 wireless router. I have tried the IP address on the router to log into it's homepage. Also I logged into my ATT router to check it. It had a different IP address. I couldn't log in that WAY either. I KNOW the router is working because I logged into the INTERNET through it. I unplug it because there is no password. Do I need to use WPS to connect to the network to be able to log into it?Try using this to login to your N300 router.
http://192.168.0.1I tried that when I first installed it. Did you buy this router new? Possibly it may have been returned to the STORE after another buyer purchased it, changed the login IP address then found they didn't like it & returned it. If that is the case try resetting the router to factory defaults & try the login again. That may work for you.
I think it also has to be a wired connection to login to the router.I reset it twice and used a hardwire connectionI'm out of options. the best I can do for you is give you a link to the user guide.
http://www.tenda.cz/sites/Upload/F300/F300_UG.pdf
I'm sorry I couldn't help you further. Maybe someone else on the forum MIGHT have more ideas.
EDIT: I've read that you have to hold the reset button for 7 seconds.(Googled) Did you do that?Problem solved. Bought a netgear router of which I was able to log into.

Hi folks,

I bought a router to use with my sim from China and on trying to use it, apart from it being dated with the firmware, it appears to be new on the outside but old software on the inside. It also appears to be a Frankenstein hardware ie half ZTE and something ELSE. I checked the model with the manufacturing company but it appears they never manufactured that model.

Anyway, strange things have been happening like passwords not working on some websites like as if they been changed, sometimes I log into my mail box and find mail I read last time now appearing as unread and a few other oddities.

All these anomalies led me to check the routers internals which led me to the page I have included here. I dont understand what this page is trying to tell me but it looks like my info is going through some network b4 going where it should. Please could anyone shed light on this.What is the make and model of your router.

What is "my sim from China "? You mention ZTE, which is a cell phone company,.Hi,

Its a EDUP 4G LTE-Wireless Router but u wont find this on their website.  "I bought a router to use with my sim from China" means the router is made in China.  "You mention ZTE, which is a cell phone company,"  the hardware inside the router is part ZTEOver a period of time, there have been reports of how the Chinese are fining out our passwords and reading our email accounts, or Facebook accounts and almost any other place where we might have stored information about ourselves.
The most recent news item says about 400,000 records were stolen from the military by just two Chinese experts who are using the resources of the Chinese government to spy on Americans. Just how much of this is really true is hard to say. But the announcement was made by the Justice Department that they have arrested two Chinese nationals who are working for the Chinese government in an effort to get as much information about Americans using the Internet.
The fact that some of your equipment was my in China might has something to do with the problems you have. However, even if you had equipment and made only United States, they could STILL get into your accounts anyway. Once they get into your passwords everything will be available to them regardless of what kind of hardware you are using.
Sorry I can't be of much help to you. Possibly using other hardware might give you better results, but that is no guarantee that your private information is secret. It SEEMS that the big firms such as Facebook and the banking companies do not do enough to protect your private information. You will have to check carefully all the purchases you make on credit cards and all the charges that appear in your bank account.
You may have to buy a new cell phone and get a new phone number in order to protect yourself from all sorts of bad things. I don't know of any easy answer.


An easy way to determine if someone is using your wifi to sniff your traffic is simply change your wifi password. This has two benefits. The first obvious one is it will kick out the intruder who wouldn’t know the new password.

The second benefit is you can also determine if someone close by is using something known as an evil twin attack. This is shockingly easy to setup, but requires the person to be near you like a neighbor. This is where they will secretly take down your wifi by flooding it. And put up there own wifi using your routers information so your devices will connect to their equipment allowing them to analyze everything you do. So if you change your wifi password, your devices like your phone will disconnect until you update them with the new password. You may have a problem if they are magically still connected after you change the password.

Using a VPN service like Nord VPN or Pure VPN will completely hide everything you are doing even if someone is actively monitoring your wifi.
It just appears that the router firmware is written to pass my traffic into the hands of the spies, no changing of the password is going to prevent that so I wonder what I can do Quote

Anyway, strange things have been happening like passwords not working on some websites like as if they been changed, sometimes I log into my mail box and find mail I read last time now appearing as unread and a few other oddities.

This is where they will secretly take down your wifi by flooding it.

Web traffic is pretty much completely SSL and HTTPS, particularly logins. Even if we start with the assumption that the router was under malicious control, the web traffic where you log in and view your E-mail could not be inspected to get your password, nor could those communications be changed since they are encrypted entirely to prevent tampering between the client system and the server.

The "System Log" information indicates nothing untoward. The IP address is probably because a system connected to the router requested it- it's an ad server so it's going to be pretty common.

"Run Manual set APN" likely means a client is connecting- APN is "Access Point Name".

Fact is if they were spying, you wouldn't know . Somebody "spying" on your web activity even with full direct access to your PC doesn't want to be detected and isn't going to leave log entries or start changing your passwords one at a time, or log in to your webmail and arbitrarily flag read E-mails as unread again.

Web traffic is pretty much completely SSL and HTTPS, particularly logins. Even if we start with the assumption that the router was under malicious control, the web traffic where you log in and view your E-mail could not be inspected to get your password, nor could those communications be changed since they are encrypted entirely to prevent tampering between the client system and the server.

The "System Log" information indicates nothing untoward. The IP address is probably because a system connected to the router requested it- it's an ad server so it's going to be pretty common.

"Run Manual set APN" likely means a client is connecting- APN is "Access Point Name".

Fact is if they were spying, you wouldn't know . Somebody "spying" on your web activity even with full direct access to your PC doesn't want to be detected and isn't going to leave log entries or start changing your passwords one at a time, or log in to your webmail and arbitrarily flag read E-mails as unread again.

I have an interesting question.  For some reason my internet speed on my computer is RUNNING slow and has been for a couple months.  I'm connected directly to the modem too and I'm not getting much speed.  now my roommates computer is running off the wi-fi and hes getting much faster speed.  I've done an anti virus check and came back with nothing, and I've also checked for any unusual looking programs but nothing looks out of the ordinary.  It seems like something is blocking it on my computer but I don't know what it could be.  I tried disconnecting and using the Wi-Fi like my roommate but its still really slow.  I can't think of anything else.Give your modem and router a quick reset (that is, turn them off and on again) and see if that helps. Check the other computers in your house to see if their internet is slow, too—if the problem only happens on one computer, the problem is that computer, not your router or modem. Run through these troubleshooting steps to see if it’s a hardware problem. Then, once you fix your router or modem (or replace it), you’ll be browsing SPEEDILY once again. Check out our complete guide to knowing your network for more router tips, too.niketathakare... *censored*?

Anyway. If it's slow through the modem and another PC is in sync with no issues you can obviously rule out router or line/ISP issues.

Open command prompt (right click Start menu > Run > type CMD then type the following lines in one at a time:

netsh winsock reset
netsh int ip reset
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew
ipconfig /flushdns

Might help. Basically what I think you should try is reinstalling your network drivers and settings but probably easiest to start with the above.

Do you have any VPN or tunnelling SOFTWARE installed?

If the resets above don't work go back into cmd prompt and type "ipconfig /all" and post the info back here. QUOTE from: Shandy on December 29, 2018, 08:09:05 AM

niketathakare... *censored*?

Anyway. If it's slow through the [ur=https://crbtech.in/programmes/hardware-and-network-training-programme
l]modem and another PC[/url] is in sync with no issues you can obviously rule out router or line/ISP issues.

Open command prompt (right click Start menu > Run > type CMD then type the following lines in one at a time:

netsh winsock reset
netsh int ip reset
ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew
ipconfig /flushdns

Might help. Basically what I think you should try is reinstalling your network drivers and settings but probably easiest to start with the above.

Do you have any VPN or tunnelling software installed?

If the resets above don't work go back into cmd prompt and type "ipconfig /all" and post the info back here.

I have an interesting question.  For some reason my internet speed on my computer is running slow and has been for a couple months.  I'm connected directly to the modem too and I'm not getting much speed.  now my roommates computer is running off the wi-fi and hes getting much faster speed.  I've done an anti virus check and came back with nothing, and I've also checked for any unusual looking programs but nothing looks out of the ordinary.  It seems like something is blocking it on my computer but I don't know what it could be.  I tried disconnecting and using the Wi-Fi like my roommate but its still really slow.  I can't think of anything else.

I have an Acer Aspire E15 E5-574G-54Y2 with Atheros QCA9377 and Windows 10 Pro. At home I'm connected to my 5Ghz network and everything was running smoothly, but now I'm away for the holidays and when I'm connected to 2.4Ghz networks, the connection suddenly drops for no reason. It won't come back, and I cannot scan any networks (INCLUDING the one I was connected to) unless I go to "Network Connections", right click on the QCA9377 adapter and select "Diagnose", or disable/enable/change driver from the Device Manager. I tried with many drivers, starting from 12.0.0.203 up to 12.0.0.722 (as well as the one from Microsoft) and same problem happens. "allow computer to turn off device to save power" is disabled. Played with various options in the advanced tab in the device manager but same problem. I even tried making a "Network reset" from Windows 10, but problem comes up again after a while. I connected an external Alfa wireless NIC which works perfectly. The same problem occurs in two different networks in different areas, where all my phones/tablets work perfectly. (so this is not a router RELATED problem). Any thoughts on solving this?I'm assuming you've seen this epic thread - https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-networking/qualcomm-atheros-ar9485-wifi-disconnects-randomly/bb7fd0ef-455d-4e1e-b973-6632791e0cc3

Everyone seems to agree it's a problem that was introduced by a Windows UPDATE. Some users say turning the hardware wi-fi switch off then on is a quick fix. Some say locating another driver and manually replacing it worked. Others had some success changing the power saving SETTINGS for the adapter (device manager -> select wifi adapter -> power management -> uncheck allow computer to turn off the device). Have you tried any of these?Thanks for the link, although it is about a different Atheros model (still the solution might be common).
My laptop doesn't have a hardware switch.
As I said in my original post, I have tried 4 different drivers and I have turned off the power management box. Changing driver resets the wifi connection (so it comes up again) but the problem comes up with all drivers after a while.
I'm considering myself an expert user, and I have never seen anything similar before. The strange thing is that the card looks totally disabled after the wifi drops, so it does not pick up any SSIDs at all. I even tried to change the MTU of the WiFi card, again with no success.
I also tried running Wireshark in the background to see what's going on, it looks like there are lots of TCP retransmissions just before the wifi connection drops.I'm sorry for missing that information in your original post.

Have you looked at power options in your BIOS that might affect the NIC?This is a method to HELP identify the nature of the problem.

Go to a local store and find a USB Wi-Fi adapter. Take note of their return policy.
I believe Windows 10 wail use the device without need of a driver.  My experience that Windows 10 now includes drivers for most of the popular USB Wi-Fi gizmos.

Expect to pay under $15 for a generic.

If it does notwork, take it back for a refund.
There is no other BIOS setting for the NIC, apart from disabling it.
I already have an external Alfa Wireless which works flawlessly, but I want to fix the built-in one and work with that..

Product: HP Probook 455
Operating SYSTEM: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (64-Bit)
It was worked earlier properly. There are two WIFI ROUTERS in the house, but notebook is unable to connect. I got error message during connection, that it is unable to connect to network. Wifi routers are working, other devices can connect to these.

Built-in wifi card is Ralink RT3290 and there wasn't any software updates installed to it. I tried to reinstall original driver too, but doesn't helped. I tried to modify DNS, it is 1.1.1.1/1.0.0.1 at this time. I tried to remove all the connections from the list, disable and reactivate wifi card, but nothing helped. I connected an USB wifi card too, it was worked for a while, but it isn't working at this time. I connected to a Huawei MOBILE wifi router, in this case connection is OK with built-in wifi card too.

Details with mobile wifi: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5luphgku3xi0dk7/AACPlsPhLaKn8gb16aJBDuGZa?dl=0

Hello

I am hoping to find out how many people may be accessing my wi fi. I pay for my ISP in a flat that neighbours five other FLATS. I am using Win 10.

I read somewhere online that I need to do the following: ping my broadcast address (192.168.1.255). Then perform "arp -a" to determine all the computing devices. However, I get 
Code: [Select]C:\>ping 192.168.1.255

Pinging 192.168.1.255 with 32 bytes of data:
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.

Ping statistics for 192.168.1.255:
    Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 0, Lost = 4 (100% loss),

C:\>
What am I doing wrong, please?What you want should be done by program for that purpose.
And your ability to do what you want may depend on your service provider.
Change your password
Talk to your service provider.

Look in the app store for something.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/who-is-on-my-wifi/id770969761?mt=8
Quote

Works fantastic!
No problems using it for me! I am not super tech savvy, but I figured out an easy way to verify the connections detected are yours by powering down your devices using wifi--computer, iPad, tv, roku, iPod, etc. then run the app again to see what is left still showing as connected.

We were given one for Christmas and have a Linksys router (WRT110). Our phone connects to it fine but when setting up the Amazon Alexa app, it connects but says bo internet availability. I called support and they say it must have been something I had done and want a one time fee to fix it. First of all, I don't like someone taking over control of my phone or computer. I did it for both and it helped in setting up my anti-virus protection on my PC. Any suggestions on what to do?I find it hard to believe Amazon support is asking for a fee. And I don't know what you mean about "setting up" the Alexa app. There's noting to set up. You simply download the app to your phone and you USE it to help refine the settings on your device.

Setting up ECHO devices couldn't be easier - they are pretty MUCH plug & play. So yes, if you are having an issue my money's on user error.I've gone over setting up the app several times and each time, I get to where the Amazon 686 network shows up, connects but states there is no internet available. Where could I have messed up? I'm going to take it to another person who has a different phone (the one that gave it to us) and see if it has internet. He said his works fine and had no trouble setting it up. We're hoping that might get the bug or mistake solved.I have no idea what the Amazon 686 network is. You are supposed to connect to your home network (assuming that's where the Echo device is located) using your home network password.You got me on that one because it says to connect to the alexa app network or something similar to that. I'll look up the procedure and post it.I've gone by this procedure several times and even tried it by my PC.

https://www.pcmag.com/article/350474/how-to-set-up-an-amazon-echo
I told you what you need to do in my LAST post. Quote

I get to where the Amazon 686 network shows up, connects but states there is no internet available.