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Hello all, I'm currently working on a batch that will help reduce my time of new SYSTEM setup at my facility. So FAR my batch can enable the local administrator account and set its password, make the user that will be the primary login user a local admin, Change the Pc Name (so as to keep the AD clean), join the domain, and map a COUPLE network drives.

With all this said, I cannot seem to FIND a way to "Add a network location" as seen by right CLICKING in my computer field in Windows 7. Any takers?

I'm STILL very new to learning cmd/.bat's so please keep that in mind when replying.

I'm LOOKING to create a batch file that looks into the domain server and Identifies each Proxy on the network along with every attached IP they currently have assigned to them. Anyone KNOW if this is possible and if so, can you help me create one?

The purpose of this CODE is to pretty much do a head count of how MANY systems are on which proxy so we can balance the proxies out making it easier for us to manage our server proxies when our users have a connection issue.

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\InternetSettings\ProxyServer is the key/values I wish to look/pull from.

Hello everyone!
Recently, a friend of mine had some trouble with his Internet. I have the same provider and the same subscription as him.
He looked up some information and found out that we are supposed to have 160MBPS download speed but when i test it i have about 30.
I wanted to contact my provider but decided to check the speed directly from the modem since my computer is CONNECTED trough powerline.
When i connected the ethernet cable, that i use for my powerline, from my modem to my laptop i got 150MBPS.
I use a 'TP-LINK 500mbps' as powerline.

Is there something i can do to increase the speed cause it seems that losing 120MPBS over powerline is a lot.Why don't you use an ethernet cable from the modem to your computer? Those powerline plug links are not ideal. Interference and noise on the AC wiring will reduce the speed. You can get electrical noise from appliances in the same building -  dimmer switches, things with motors such as air-conditioner, washing machine, electric fans, mobile phone charger or other wall warts, laptop charger, etc.

 TP-LINK 500mbps
As the name suggests, the speed is up  to 500mbps. That should be at least one order of magnitude above any DSL service
Here is  their site:
http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-PA511
They claim:
Quote

Up to 500Mbps, 300 Meters
With advanced HomePlug AV technology, TL-PA511 provides users with STABLE, high-speed data transfer rates of up to 500Mbps on a line length of up to 300 meters. Together with its built-in Qos and powerful AES encryption, the TL-PA511 is a great choice for a whole home solution to connect all network compatible devices--from computers and game consoles to set-top boxes for IPTV to printers and NAS HARD DRIVES.

One would think the overhead of the  power-line is very small.

Why don't you use an ethernet cable from the modem to your computer? Those powerline plug links are not ideal. Interference and noise on the AC wiring will reduce the speed. You can get electrical noise from appliances in the same building -  dimmer switches, things with motors such as air-conditioner, washing machine, electric fans, mobile phone charger or other wall warts, laptop charger, etc.

TP-LINK 500mbps
As the name suggests, the speed is up  to 500mbps. That should be at least one order of magnitude above any DSL service
Here is  their site:
http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-PA511
They claim:One would think the overhead of the  power-line is very small.

I know that i should never trust the word of a manufacturer. They could be telling the truth

i am really CONFUSED with my router this type

Firmware Version:       QT04-6.1.5.48
Model Number:       2701HGV-E Gateway

i want to limit my speed connection at my android phone , i have 1MBPS line = 128KB/s , i want to limit my device , so it get only 20KB/s , so the pc connection not lagging. how to do that?

here is my qos DOWNSTREAM setting, i am confused what to INSERT

Hey, i'm the owner of an acer pavillion, and i have a rather... odd problem. My laptop currently runs on windows 7, sp2. Ever SINCE our home router had an update a few months back, my internet STOPPED functioning. It says i haave 4 or 5 out of five connection with the router but no internet at all, or that my internet is steady at 4 or 5, but nothing that uses the internet functions. Occasionally, connection drops to 3/5 and i have internet, for a timespan between a few MINUTES and half an hour. As an evening progresses, the connection gets worse.

Also, none of the other COMPUTERS on the network suffer the same problem and my laptop doesn't suffer the problem on other networks.

I am not a computer nerd, so if you need more specifics please tell me how to find them as well.before it is asked, the problem persists in both wireless and CABLE network

Hello All ,

For several weeks now 2 laptops and 3 phones were able to connect to the internet wirelessly through our
Linksys E3000. All of a sudden, yesterday, no one could get to the internet. This morning I came in and rebooted the router and still no go. I tried both putting the security key in manually and pushing the button on the router to do it automatically.

The coax connections work fine it's just the wireless function. Is it possible the wireless function has gone south on the router ? Everything looks just fine on the router itself....Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
MP. If the router works fine for Cat5 Cable connections ( coax ) and wireless is not working, it is possible that the routers wireless is dead. However I would first start with looking to see if this router is still transmitting a signal. When searching for wireless connections you should see it listed unless you have it set to hidden mode. If you DONT see it and you didnt intentionally hide it, then you can try a hard reset of the router. But before doing this, go in and write down any special configuration data such as port forwarding info if you use Vonage for example etc as for the hard reset will clear this and kill your phone if you have vonage or another VoIP phone. Also if this requires authentication to say a DSL connection vs Cable Broadband be sure to have that info available written down too.

Hard Rest is easy... just find the small micro button that usually says reset next to it and power the router off first. Then hold this reset button in and power on the device while this button is held in. After the router boots up usually 15-20 sec or so you can release the push button and it might go through another warm boot before coming up to work with it.

If you have DSL to this router you will need to connect to the router at its default IP address via Cat5 Cable and use the default password to get into it. Then you will need to set the authentication info.

If it is Cable Broadband you just need to access the router via default admin user name and password that is either on the label on the router or in a installation manual that came with it or search google for it from another internet access location for that routers specific model.

One in you can set up the wifi which should be wide open ready to allow devices to connect with no security which is usually default for most wireless routers. At this time you should also be able to see the router from a wireless device as available and insecure wide open for a connection. If you see it now and didnt see it before then simply with the system connected directly to router via Cat5 cable set up WPA2 or other security option for wifi and then connect the wireless devices to the router, lastly after adding back any port forwarding etc, change the password on the router from its default to something only you would guess. I usually use a permanent marker and write the password on the plastic bottom of router, so next time I have to get into it, I am not guessing password and just look under it and get in, otherwise its a hard reset and lots of configuration since I have many port forwarding and other custom settings as well as mac filtering etc.

If after the hard reset the router is not showing wifi and going in and confirming that wifi is enabled its still missing then the wireless is bad on this router and you will need to buy a new one. Before doing this make sure the antenna's are not damaged and screwed in all the way if the type of router that allows for antenna replacements.Dave ,

Thanks so much for the help.

Whats going on now is we can connect sometimes and cannot other times.
I can always see the Router listed on my laptop. It seems to be bouncing
up and down. Can this be a service provider issue ? or strictly our Router is
going bad.

Thanks again ,
MP. Quote

Whats going on now is we can connect sometimes and cannot other times.
I can always see the Router listed on my laptop. It seems to be bouncing
up and down. Can this be a service provider issue ? or strictly our Router is
going bad.

When I visit a website a first time, everything is displayed correctly. When I visit it a second time though, the above picture happens.

Hi,

My sister brings her laptop to work and connects to the network via WIFI. She has a mapped drive that allows her to access a data FILE, but she get disconnected from it when she comes back to the office. It always asks for the user and password of the server she's connecting to.

Please help!It MIGHT not have the mapped drive set to reconnect at login. There is a checkbox that needs to be marked when setting up the mapped drive to make sure the connection doesn't get removed. There is also a chance that this is set up on purpose for security reasons. If she can, your sister should talk with someone from IT and let them know of the issue. It could be an easy fix for her, or might be a part of a bigger problem.Hi,

I checked off the box, but still have the same issue.

Do you know what else it could be?

  Quote

but she get disconnected from it when she comes back to the office.

I am having a major issue....

I have a samsung laptop with Windows 8.1 (64 bit) and Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6235 network adaptor.

Yesterday morning I was using the laptop as normal at home. I then took it to work and was not able to connect to the internet. When I looked at the network icon in the bottom right it had a little star and said "not connected - connections are available" but when I click on it, the pop up says there are no connections available.

Yesterday evening I took it home and when I switched it on, it connected to the internet straight away, I hoped that it might have fixed itself, but today I have tried again at work and it still says the same. I have gone round the corner to a friend's office who I know have wifi and it still says exactly the same.

I have tried a number of things:

Going into the adaptor setting and checking that it is enabled. Disabling, re-enabling, restarting and still nothing.
Connecting with an ethernet cable I have looked for AUTOMATIC updates for the driver, this has not improved it
I have since unistalled the driver and reinstalled from the Intel website, still nothing.

I am now completely at a loss and don't know how to fix it, any suggestions?

One extra PIECE of information worth knowing is that when I GOT to work yesterday the wifi network I had been connecting to had been re-set and so my logon details had changed, I know this because my phone did not connect either, but I have since resolved this on my phone. When I first went into the adaptor settings the status did say it was trying to connect to this network. Since this wasn't working I instructed the computer to forget this network and have NEVER seen it since!Does your work have an IT professional who can help you? It sounds like your system is unable to connect to their network because it has not been added to a mac address filter or you have the wrong credentials etc.

My guess is that the credentials changed and the cached info is wrong. So you will need to connect to this wifi network clean in which it prompts for credentials and then everything would be good until they change it again.

Businesses that have a lax security dont use mac address filters and just change the password for the network when an employee is let go etc, better secured employers have far tighter access control to KEEP out unwanted pc's connected ( hackers etc )

(1) I cannot get to Internet even it SHOWS "Connected" on the Wi-Fi manual and other people is OK at the same place. My laptop is Fujitsu (Window XP). I'm using Internet Explorer, may be I messed up with the "Internet Setting". Kindly please advise how to check and correct.

(2) My DVD drive on the same laptop looks working good, But when I insert the DVD disc, it shows missing "CODE" and cannot run the DVD. Is there any free DVD SOFTWARE I can download to replace the existing one or any advice.

Thank you very much.

John
What wifi security protocol are you trying to connect to? WEP, WPA, WPA2, etc?

I use VLC Player which supports playing DVD Movies and its free.

does anyone KNOW how to add wifi to an existing network for a small business? The building is 40,000sqft and as i said there is already a network in place.Short answer to a short question:
HOOK up WIRELESS routers.
Make sure your equipment has wireless adapters.
Done. (It actually could be that easy)

You won't even need to replace the wired routers, they should all work together, at least somewhat nicely.

If you want a more detailed answer, provide more detailed question please.

-MalFor your needs you would use "Wireless Access Points" instead of a regular "Wireless Router" - The reason for this is that you will already have a router in place for the rest of your network so adding in another can cause ISSUES.  All you would then need to do is configure the access points to have the same name (SSID) and password (WPA/WPA2 key) and connect them into your regular network ports.

The number of access points you will need will vary so I'd recommend getting one at first to work out what the range is LIKE in your building then add more to get better coverage.

How to check the recent sign-in activity in AOL email account ?
I can't find the Recent Sign-in Activity on AOL email account, can anyone help ?
TKS,
JohnI'd call AOL SUPPORT at their toll free number. You will have to prove that you are in fact the customer who owns that account. And then you should be ABLE to ask them for information that you need.


Many years ago ( 1997 ) I was able to check with them when I kept getting disconnected when running my then 486DX100Mhz with 24MB RAM and Windows 95 on a 120MB Conner HDD and 28.8k modem. I found out that my friend had watched me logon and wrote down my password. Then was using it at home from his computer, and when he logged on it kicked me off since back then it only allowed 1 connection at a time per account. I contacted AOL and changed my password and that fixed it, although I didnt KNOW about this until they told me that they saw that the dial-up connection was happening thru 2 different NUMBERS and when they traced it back and mentioned the phone number I said... hey thats my friends phone number. It was fixed as easily as changing password and then telling my friend that it wasnt cool to steal my password and use my internet as his own from his home.

I have 2 DESKTOPS, both running Win 7 home premium, hardwired to a belkin wireless router.   I have admin privileges on both computers and wish to share files between them.  (running AVAST free on both and temporarily disabled shield controls).  I have tried to set up a home group with and without a password, Windows tells me It cannot set up a homegroup on this computer. If I try to click on the Icon of one computer or the other, it asks me for the network password ( I assume that is the router password) and it tells me that it is the wrong password. I have been through advanced SHARING settings on both computers to make shure everything is the same (network discovery ect.) have run the network troubleshooters on both computers.  made sure the clocks were synchronized.  When I Google this problem I get exponentially more confused.  Thanks.This password is a password ( key ) used to join systems to the approved computer list, and not the router password unless the router password is the same. The options you have are to either create a password for other systems to join with or create a ( key ) which is a piece of media that can be used on the systems such as a thumb drive which contains the key to join other computers to the approved list.

As long as the AVG FIREWALL is disabled you should be all set. I ran into issues with the AVG Firewall trying to use 2 systems peer-to-peer and had to disable it to get them to share files and folders. I looked all over for an exception policy to alter, but simply the Firewall that AVG has was never intended for computers networked together to share files and folders. Meanwhile Zone Alarm many YEARS ago had an exception policy.

I have only used this flash drive key method for joining systems to a WHS and havent used it for Windows 7 to Windows 7. I just used a password. Here is more info: http://www.functionx.com/networking/Lesson04.htmThank you Dave Lembke for your informative response.  I had refurbished a discarded computer that was going to be a gift to my daughter, that I had to deliver today.  Wanted to transfer a 29 gig video file before I gave it to her.  At 4:00 am last night I finally got to where I could see the file but could not transfer it. Plan to get an external hard drive and transfer it that way.  (Man, take me back to xp networking).  Thanks again for your help.

I have cable internet and the main cable is attached to my desktop computer in the living room. Our family also has two laptop computers that are connected to the internet service by their internal wi-fi. Is there a way I can turn off or temporarily "pause" the internet connection via one of the laptop computers so that the connection is turned off for the second laptop computer? Would the computers need to be on a network for this? They are not currently network together as I do not know how to do that.

I looked over the router and there are no external buttons to allow this like on my old router. There is only one button on top labelled "WPS" or something. The service person from my ISP set up the wireless network.

one laptop computer has Windows 7 OS, the other has Linux Mint Cinnamon. the desktop computer is currently non-functional but had Windows XP (the router is still operational none-the-less)
My thoughts would be to enable/disable wireless access to systems via using a MAC Address Filter. This would be a process where you only approve devices with specific mac address to connect to your wifi. And when you no longer want one of them to have internet access you simply remote into the router and remove or disable the checkbox for the mac address that is in relation to the computer that you no longer want to be on the network. This would require you to probably follow up with this change with a manual RESET option which most routers have in their web gui interface. Upon reset of the router that one laptop or desktop with wifi will no longer have an internet connection.

I am trying to figure out why you want to do this? What is the real problem that is not described here?

If this is a parent wanting to shut off internet access to a childs computer, some routers have where you can set them to only have connection between router and computer between specific hours of the day. * However the KID hack to this is a paperclip if the kids have access to the router and can perform a hard reset back to factory default of everyone having unlimited internet connections.

In my home I installed 2 wireless routers. One of which is on a $6 wall timer and so this 2nd $20 wireless router is only functional for certain hours of the day. And this wireless router is the one that my daughters computer connects to, so that she cant wake up at 3am and decide to game on the internet while we are sleeping. The wall timer that she is unaware of makes this router live from 3pm to 9pm and then it shuts off. Meanwhile my wireless router is on 24/7 but she doesnt have the key to connect to it.

To shut a router off to pause it for a while and then have it come back on or active again from pause, there are Web Power Controllers out there for around $90 -$130 that allow for this. I used some DLI Web Power Controllers to allow myself to remotely power cycle devices that were prone to be troublesome with lock ups etc, such as a private Copperlink DSL connection through a burglar alarm circuit ( leased copper pair ) point to point through telephone company that allowed us to have a private DSL 4mbps network bridge to other offices WITHIN 5 miles. The problems with these modems were that lightning storms would make them lock up even if you had UPS's at both ends powering the modems. The Electromagnetic radiation from lightning would cause them to lock up even when lightning never struck the line that they were connected to through a weak EMP.

Here is the devices that I used to remote admin ( power reboot ) EQUIPMENT from home or from other sites at my prior career where I was systems admin. They worked sweet!!! http://www.digital-loggers.com/lpc.htmlIt is a parental control issue. I do not have access to the router settings, as the computer on which the service person installed the internet software and settings is no longer operational and will not turn on. We haven't had funds to replace it yet. We would just like to disconnect the 2nd laptop during hours when child was told he is not allowed online. the child computer runs Linux software as the hard drive needed replaced and does not have the original Windows software now so I was unable to use some parental control software I found that works with Windows, as my laptop is the only one one of the two with Windows OS.

Our internet service is from Comcast and the router is one from their company. I think it is Xfinity service. The main internet connection can not be installed to my laptop computer as the cable is installed in the living room behind the desk and the wire does not reach to the bedroom. I was actually surprised the Wi-Fi still works since the desktop computer is totally broken.I'd buy a 2nd router such as this cheap one and plug it into the other routers available ethernet port. Then plug the power cord to this 2nd router into an electric timer. You then can do what I am doing to limit my daughter to wireless internet between the hours of 3pm and 9pm.

Newegg has a cheap router $15.99 :

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156381

Walmart has an outlet timer for like $6.84:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Woods-50000-Woods-2-Conductor-Indoor-Mechanical-24-Hour-Lamp-Timer-White-50000/21682990

This is the easiest way to manage parental controls on when they have internet or not, and its less than $25 to implement. With my daughters computer only authenticating to this other router, when that router is powered off there is no internet connection for her. And she doesnt know the wireless password to connect to the other wireless that is live 24/7. The only way a child can get around this timer with router would be if they knew the wireless password for the primary router or they gain access to the timer that the 2nd router is plugged into. If they dont know the timer is there, they might not get an idea to remove the timer and plug direct or turn the dial until it turns back on.

The only free way to achieve what you want to do is if you can get into the router they provided and set up mac filtering and enable/disable manually or if the router has parental controls which many dont have to make wireless only functional during specific times for specific computers.

May I ask a question?
 You say one computer no longer has Windows because you had to replace a hard drive.  But you do not have the Windows install disc.  Right?
SOMEBODY here has said that all you need is the product key. If you have it, you just borrow the same version from a friend and install it.


The other computer had windows Vista and no one we know has any install disc for it. We didn't like it anyway. I would prefer a solution that allowed me to turn the connection on and off without having to go to the router or to child's computer at the time when the child has been on long enough and we would like them to go to bed or such.

Hello everyone.

I want to SETTING my NETWORK using 2 different gateway such as 192.168.1.1 & 192.168.2.1. from 1 ISP.
Can anyone please explain if this setting can be done.

Thank You.
We are going to NEED much more information. What exactly are you planning on doing?

Two months have PASSED in between sessions where I used my home desktop computer (March to May). After returning from college, I found out that my family changed the router and ever since I haven't been able to access the internet through my desktop. My laptop that I carry on me at all times is still FINE. I've tried all sorts of methods with my desktop:

• Cycling my router/modem, powering it on off
• Resetting my desktop's IP settings through command prompt
• Activating SYSTEM restore to points prior before I left in March, albeit the system restores failed
• I can't seem to activate system restore in Safe Mode, however
• Going into Ctrl Panel > Internet Options > Connections > LAN Settings > Checking on and off the Auto DETECT Settings

hi
I'm using windows 8 on Samsung laptop
one DAY all  of a sudden the wifi did not TURN on
when I opened wireless settings where turning on/off option USED to be,
I found nothing, there was not even a single SUB menu under the wireless setting..
I tried to uninstall and then install the wifi driver (intel wireless n 130),
but nothing changed, problem remained as such..
please help Try system restore http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/tutorials/windows-8-system-restore-guide/

I've SPENT hours looking for something to solve this and I've found nothing, I can search just fine on google but most of the time when I OPEN pages I get a DNS look up FAILED, and some pages like Pandora just flat out never work. It's not the network because the other computers in the HOUSE work perfect. I have tried every different browser and nothing has worked, so I'm not sure what to do now  Is your machine SETUP with a static IP? Does your machine have a DNS server setup or are you using DHCP?

hope to make is short if I can here goes. I live with my sister & her husband their house because I have MS and can not live alone. He thinks he rules all computers in house as he is an IT guy.  My problem is he used to shut me down at MIDNIGHT every night till we found out it was him yelled alot he thought it was funny. Problem now is there are 4 other computers in the house they all get great bandwidth speed can watch movies u tube ect no problem.  Me I cant even watch a 10 second commercial on u tube before it buffers.  Its seconds to do things at other houses, so its not my computer at other wi fi spots houses NO problem at all .I know he is doing something.  When you visit our house you have to give him your computer in order to signhe takes it goes into his room comes back and you can sign in then. Why cant you just put a password like at other houses and your on!!  Is he able to look at everything I am doing on my computer from the other ones he has in hiss"officE"  HELP THIS IS SO FRUSTRATING AND NOT GOOD FOR MY HEALTH. SISTERS COMPUTER FINE NEPHEW FINE.  ONLY MINE.  HELPPPPPP PLEASEEEEEReally? This is what you want as your first post here?My suggestion is to get your own ISP connection to say the room that is yours and you will have your own modem, router, and isolation from his games as long as he doesnt mess with your stuff.

Other option is to tether a computer to a modern cell phone to use the 3G or 4G connection as a direct link to the internet.

Other option is to buy a cellular modem that plugs into your computer that is through a cell provider and have your own internet that way as well.

You need isolation from the idiot. And only way to get the isolation is to spend money to have your own ISP connection.The forum does not offer family consulting. Apparently this is an exception for technical reasons.

Now my turn. I live on Social Security and I have a nephew that can not hold a j ob and he lives in his trailer in the backyard. He gets free internet from my Wi-Fi.
Instead of LOOKING for work, he stays around and witches movies for lours at a time.

Recently my ISP started changing me $10 a month extra because of more bandwidth being used. So, do you want to guess what I did? Hint: The router is inside the house.hi and good day, my advice, get a job, till you can afford your own connection, if you can, live separately from them. you can't do much if they're paying the bills and you are just sitting there and not contributing. i'm just saying man, no offense INTENDED. i think he's using bandwidth control from his router.Sorry to hear the situation is so bad for you! This is a classic EXAMPLE of an IT cowboy...

Unfortunately as the others have stated there isn't a lot we can do for you.
My personal opinion for you is to have a serious talk with him about it...

The only other pieces of advice I can give you is if your computer is a Desktop PC and you are using wireless check your wireless signal isn't weak. This can cause the issues that you are experiencing as well as pages not loading or connections dropping.

Check to see if your computer is set with a static IP address, details on how to do this are found easily on Google. If the address is static, try changing the last number of your IP address to somewhere in the 180-240 range and try browsing the net then.

If this does not work....

I am guessing by the fact that he takes the computer away before you can sign on is because he has some kind of MAC FILTERING implemented the network too, so spoofing your MAC address will likely not allow you to access the network at all. If you want to try this, Google is your friend. The reason he takes the machine away could also be that he has disabled the SSID from being broadcast and has to enter this information manually.

As others have suggested getting your own 3G or 4G connection may be your only option, but this is expensive. Quote from: jormeno on June 05, 2014, 08:59:05 AM

If you have an android not sure about Iphone, but if you get great cell service you can always root your android phone and set it up as a hotspot for free, without paying a dime. I used to have to use my cell has a hotspot(router) to get internet where i was staying at. Just an option.

Hey.

I cannot connect to my main wireless CONNECTION on my school campus with my laptop. I can connect to that connection with my smart phone and can connect my laptops wireless to my smart phones hotspot as well. So I don't know what the issue is, i've tried heaps of suggestions online but none of them have worked so far.

Its only happened the last couple of days and i'm in study week for my final exams and i'm losing the plot here because its so important that I get this started up as soon as possible. I don't mind if I have to buy new HARDWARE or what ever I just need it fixed asap.

Drivers are up to date, I tried uninstalling stuff and re-installing. I don't understand though, how can I connect to one wireless connection, but not another and the one I cannot connect to I can connect to with another device right next to it. :/

Thanks so much for your time people, will be checking often for answers.


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]You have ALREADY done the logical things. At this point the thing to try is a new external USB wireless adapter.  You may have to borrow a couple from your friends to see what will work on your laptop. When using the USB adapter, turn off the internal wireless.
Wall-mart:

Amazon:


IMHO that is the safe way to fix your problem.
Willing to try everything! Ran out to the STORE and bought one, straight home and it worked!

I have one query though, I don't want to push my luck but the connection wizard with the new USB couldn't be completed because I don't have access to the router but when I went to the wireless connection and typed in my details it worked anyway? So just wondering what it did exactly, if the installation process hasn't even been completed.

Thanks all the same! YAY! I CAN STUDY AGAIN!.... Wait... 

 So it WORKS?
My personal experience with wireless things has been up and down.  Doing a little research, it seems many  users  have had the same  kind of thing.

Some adapters require near zero installation. Others have to be installed only with the CD from the maker. And brand name is not a sure think. That is why I said you might have to borrow a pair to find out. But if you got it to work, stop there!

Bandwidth throttling maybe widespread. But seldom reported in mass media.
Read this:
Why Netflix streaming is getting slower, and probably won’t get better any time soon

Back in  2007 the FCC reported Comcast was reducing users bandwidth for dishonest gain. Here is a reference to that story:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bandwidth_throttling#Comcast_Corp._v._FCC

More recent stories seem to focus on streaming video services. A video stream can look good at 1.5 Mbps, but is noticeably better at 3 Mbps. DSL service is now at 6 Mbps in many regions. Yet some users report that their video streams get interrupted and lose quality.
What about you?

Only way to detect if there is any throttling I WOULD think would be if you had say 2 ISP's and 2 computers, and say one was DSL and the other was Cable Broadband, and you figured out your maximum bandwidth to be lets say 5mbps for both with a 1mbps upload to be exact. You then perform a bandwidth test between computer #1 and Netflix with DSL and then a test between computer #2 and Netflix with Cable Broadband and compare for the same show watched at the same time.

While this is imperfect, its probably the closest you could get to detecting throttling. One big problem with this would be if both ISPs throttled the same... you would end up with no difference between them. Other problem is that there are many other factors that can slow down the communications and make it act as if its throttled when it is not. This would be ifone ISP had more traffic conjestion between you and netflix than the other. This conjestion would increase latency and could appear as if your being throttled. However if the test was done multiple times and some different results were detected then it could be assumed that it ws caused by conjestion and not caused by intentional throttling.

Personally I haven't had any issues with throttling detected with my ISP. I actually have a 5/1 internet speed package and the 5/1 is plenty. I have my router flashed with DD-WRT and so I have QoS set to control how much bandwidth each device can consume when other priority of service devices are active. Such as when my VONAGE VoIP phone is in use, it gets 1m/384k allocated to it which = clear non choppy phone calls while others are downloading and streaming content at the same time. I also have my Sony Blu-Ray/Streaming Player set to a minimum bandwidth of 3mbps/384k. And this leaves  1mbps/256k allocated for all other computers for downloading and online games etc.

Prior to this QoS setting if you were downloading a new Linux Distro which was say 4.3GB in size and someone else was watching Netflix and another was using the phone, the phone would have choppy audio, netflix would buffer regularly, and the 1 system downloading that distro was being a bandwidth hog.

Now with QoS configured for priority of service for specific devices everything works in harmony. And if no one is using the Sony Blu-Ray Streaming Player and no one is using the phone, then I have 5mbps/1mbps for my system.

Generally though unless I am really eager to get a distro or large 15GB installation video game, I save these downloads now for something for my system to download when I am sleeping so I set it, go to bed, and when I wake its completed and ready to burn to a DVD or to a flash drive or install or play the large game.

I use to have 25/5 for bandwidth, but the ISP was charging me $80 a month for this. I dropped to 5/1 for bandwidth to save about $35 a month since I realized that 5/1 was plenty with DD-WRT flashed and configured router to get by with less bandwidth and smart bandwidth allocations. They also have a lower bandwidth package to save even more MONEY, but 5/1 is minimum for our needs.

Other factors to consider other than how much bandwidth you have is if you are connected via wireless instead of hard wired to the internet connection, if your wireless has issues and is causing Netflix to resync under a lesser resolution for the fact that it detects that you have lesser bandwidth to WORK with. With wireless in my home from the furthest point I get between 1 and 2 bars and so you will be watching content and notice that it will go from a sharp picture quality to a more grainy picture quality when watching www.fox.com shows that are available for streaming. Yet when hard wired, the shows are ALWAYS crystal clear and there is no resync under a lesser quality of video play on the fly. I saw this when watching the Sleepy Hollow TV Series on my laptop from my kitchen while making a large pan of ziti to bake up the one night.... Now hungry for ziti or pasta...LOL

Lastly, it seems as Netflix at times is overwhelmed for specific movies and shows. We tried to watch one popular movie the one night and it was constantly stopping and cartwheel buffering, yet when we went to another less popular movie it played flawlessly. So I thought maybe if I go back to the original movie it will be better now... NOPE, still too many people watching same movie and causing issues or the server that serves up that title was having issues. So for anyone reading this who thinks they are being throttled and they see a degradation in quality, a good test would be to play a less popular title and see if the quality is better. While its so easy to blame the ISP, it could be too many people trying to watch the same thing at the same time as I believe was the problem I experienced. Also at 1am I went back to this movie title and it played flawless as for everyone who was watching it earlier likely went to bed or was finished watching it by then.

Geek do you feel as if your being throttled with your ISP connection for netflix? If so who is your ISP and what do you have for bandwidth? Also is there any other people connected to your internet connection to kill the quality of service?

Lenovo H515- I.E 11-dial up
Don't understand this p.c. at all. Have 3 address bars; one is I.E., 2 are my I.S.P. , takes forever to download whatever site I want. Much to slow for a new p.c, even using dialup. I started using Google Chrome, thinking it would be faster ; it isn't ! How to get rid of it ? I have more issues, but would like to solve them one at at a time. Help, please ?If you go to add remove programs in Control Panel you can uninstall Chrome.

As far as IE, your probably looking at a browser with multiple toolbars at the top? Can you create a screenshot of what you are looking at by pressing the print screen key and then open up mspaint and paste the screenshot to that, and then save it as a jpg format file and attach it here so we can see what you have in IE that is the problem to you?

As far as dial-up goes....... there is no way to speed it up really, however a work around to MAKE pages load faster is using a Cache feature or a local proxy so that a site that was visited once before, if the images on the site have remained the same, those pictures are not redownloaded to display the website, but instead the local Cache of the last visited sites or local proxy service has those stored and so the webpage loads as fast or even faster that as if you had a broadband connection because its directly loaded from your computers hard drive.

However I used a proxy years ago and the benefits of it were minimal mainly because sites like Yahoo change very frequently and so you check it out now and then go to check it out in a few minutes and the site has already changed and so its just about always having to download new images. In addition to that they have ad image rotations and so if you as much as even press the F5 key to refrech the site your at, now its having to download and display a completely different ad image or aminated flash to you.

The days of COMFORTABLY surfing with dial-up are pretty much gone, as for almost everyone is on faster internet connections and so websites have gone from Dial-up friendly to Broadband friendly with the rest of the slower methods of connecting to the internet feeling the pain of the long load times and time outs etc.

Dial-up these days works ok with CHECKING e-mail and sites that are not fancy, but those that are full of modern FEATURES are not a good pair up with dial-up.

Just out of curiousity though...how is the overall performance of this computer otherwise? And have you scanned for malware and virus's to make sure you dont have any other problems ADDING to the pains of dial-up lag?

MalwareBytes is a good program to download and install if you haven't already. The download might take a while with dial up for the 12MB which I think the file is in size to install it, and then it has to connect and get latest definition/blacklist updates and then you can scan for Browser Bars that you may not want which it will offer to remove for you if they are bad etc.

https://www.malwarebytes.org/lp/lp4/02_r/?gclid=CIvA2tW1rL4CFYxufgod6l0AZwThanks, Dave. You're right on about dial-up being a thing of the past. Just don't work anymore ! Will try to send you a screenshot if I can't solve it myself.

I have been using GMX for some time WITHOUT any problems. However, an error message "Login time exceeded. You are no longer logged on to the server. Please login again." has started to appear shortly after I log in. I have reported this on a GMX sheet on two occasions without getting a response. I now find it very difficult to send emails or read emails in my inbox.The OP reefers to a free email service.
Do you mean it does this with you email client?
Or does it behave that way using the web mail long in?
Have you tried using another PC?
Aldo, have you tried using your smartphone?
It will help if you can answer any or all of the above.


I have not changed how I use GMX over the PAST year but the problem started to occur about a month ago. It seems to be intermittent. Sometimes I can read and send emails after I cancel the error message. Other times the heading of an email appears but the body does not.  I use Firefox so when the problem started I reinstalled Firefox with no change to the problem. I am only using this PC.I tried login again and read an email but the message appeared MINUTES later. I cancelled the message and found I was logged out. I logged in again with the same result so I clicked on the log out rather than the cancel. A GMX message then appeared saying sorry The log out had occurred because I had bookmarked something other than GMX. I will have to sort out how to bookmark GMX. I filled out a GMX Contact Form again detailing my problem. There was no response to the two previous Contact Forms.I have now had two REPLIES from GMX to my report in a Contact Form on the problem I am having. I have made certain that GMX is bookmark on Firefox. I have made certain that I login to www.gmx.com I have used Internet Explorer in place of Firefox. But the problem persists. The message Login time exceeded appears minutes after I log in.I think your browser got infected with some KIND of virus.
Try another browser. One you do not yet have.
Chrome
https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/
Opera
http://www.opera.com/computer/windows
Seamonkey
http://www.seamonkey-project.org/en/releases/

Try any of thoseThank you, Geek
I am using Opera now. GMX seems to be working but I will have to give it some time to check whether it stays logged in. I will report tomorrow.
Denis
GMX has logged me off after a short period even though I am using Oracle. There has been no response from GMX to my latest report on the problem. At this stage, I can only login to GMX, handle any emails in my inbox as quickly as possible and log off, hopefully before I am logged off by GMX.At this point I would guess you have a malware problem.
However, if there is some issue with GMX, there may be a work-around.

Two ideas:
1.) Try using a POP3 client instead of doing log in  to GMX. Thunderbird is one choice.
http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/thunderbird/
That may resolver the problem completely
OR
2. ) You could get another free e-mail account from another service. Then set up GMX to forward to your new address.   Or pull  GMX in another account.
http://email.about.com/od/gmailtips/qt/Access_GMX_Mail_in_Gmail.htm

Some other free services:
Top 11 Free Email Services
Best I can do. 

I have not a reply from my Contact note to GMX but I now get logged off after 20 minutes when it was 2 minutes previously. The same thing happens with Oracle and Firefox. Geek, I will not try the suggested work around at the moment

Okay, this PROBLEM really give me headache for a while.
The problem is my Speedtest RESULT usually get 1Mbps, and if i use LAN cable to connect the INTERNET, it Suppeerr slow, can't even OPEN google page, take about 5 minutes to open google. Then i use usb cable to connect internet, and the speed got 1Mbps normal. I already tried several method

1. Replace new cable LAN
2. Reformat Windows 7
3. Reset my modem router TD-8817
4. use external LAN Card

and the problem still not solved, i don't know what to do anymore, the speed is normal when i use usb, but if i use usb, it's often show not responding when i click network and sharing center, and when i boot my computer, then browsing, it takes about 5 minutes before connect to internet

And so my problem is like
1.With USB Cable = Speed become normal but always not responding when open the network center
2. With LAN Cable = Speed become super slow can't even open simple site like google, and it takes about 5 minute to open google page.

Solution please  I would suggest getting a router to connect to your Cable or DSL modem, then connect your computer to the router via Cat5 cable.

You will want to turn the modem on first, and then wait 2 or 3 minutes and then turn on the router and wait about a minute, and then turn on the computer with the Cat5 cable connected on.

Then you may have BETTER luck with connection speed with the router offering a DHCP (IP) lease to the computer and the router talks with the modem as an intermediary. This also gives you an additional security barrier that you dont already have which is a Hardware Firewall to avoid getting hacked on your computer.Also, how your ISP does the Internet connection is relevant.
Some may require a specific MAC to work properly. Review the instructions from your local ISP and see what they recommend.

Also, One Mega bit per second is very poor. Most nowadays are 3 Mbps or better.
i check the problem with ping and i found out that it's because of request time out
but it's not the dns problem, i use google dns or my isp dns still the same
LAN Cable only cause this problem but not with usb cable
when i ping with LAN Cable there's many Request time out at least 3 out of 5 ping
and when i ping with usb cable i never have the RTO problem
it's not like this before, it's just recently it become like this, wonder if it caused by faulty modem router

Today, I can not connect Bucklor VPN, It also point Error 707, what is wrong with it? who can help me?They appear to have a Live CHAT link at this support PAGE on their main SITE. I'd have them assist with this for BEST results.
http://www.bucklor.com/faq/

For some reason I can't hardwire to the internet?! Wireless works fine, but when i plug in my ethernet CORD it doesn't do anything! Any HELP would be amazing! <3Does device manager show everything happy or network adapter issue for hard wired?

Have you swapped the cable to verify its not a bad cable, or tested cable with another computer or network device?

Have you verified that its set up dynamic to get an IP from DHCP/Router ?

What do you see when you enter IPCONFIG/ALL at command prompt? ( Can you copy/paste the output from this command )

Many different things can cause this issue.I'm really not that computer savi! XD I know it's not the ethernet cord because it works fine with other LAPTOPS. The IPCONFIG and the Dynamic option I haven't tried, but also don't know where to start. D:On your keyboard, hold the Windows button and press R, this will bring up the run BOX. in the box type 'devmgmt.msc' (Without the ' marks)

Check for any devices with an exclamation mark and reply with results.

Lan CARD disabled after switched off of my PC. Windows 7, Lan hardware - Intel (R) 82579V Gigabit network connection. How to solve ?With the PC STARTED and logged in, Hold the Windows key and press R

This brings up the Run dialogue box
enter 'devmgmt.msc' (Without ' marks)
Check there are no devices with exclamation marks.

If there are no devices with the mark or errors then it is possible that the card has become faulty.

Also the card MAY have gone into deep sleep and is no longer being 'woken up'
Disconnect the power from the machine and hold the power button for 30s to DRAIN all residual power from the machine and reset all components.
Plug the power back in and boot normally.

I've been trying to set up this new router/modem all day now, and my default gateway refuses to stop changing itself to 0.0.0.0, whenever i prompt to change it it will change for a moment with the tag "tentative" and then resume being 0.0.0.0 I need some help bad, heres my ipconfig /all HTTP://imgur.com/T15MPW3If there is any information I can provide to make solving this problem easier, please let me know.Start over again.
At the CMD prompt you can type "ipconfig /all" an d get something like this:

Code: [Select]icrosoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.

:\Documents and Settings\Kohn>ipconfig /all

indows IP Configuration

       Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : kohn-5
       Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . :
       Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Broadcast
       IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
       WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
       DNS Suffix Search List. . . . . . : gateway.2wire.net

thernet adapter Local Area Connection 2:

       Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : gateway.2wire.net
       Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Broadcom NetXtreme 57xx Gigabit Cont
oller
       Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-18-8B-5A-15-E2
       Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
       Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
       IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.71
       Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
       Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.254
       DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.254
       DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.254
       Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:33:53 PM

       Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Thursday, May 01, 2014 9:33:53 AM

:\Documents and Settings\Kohn>
All ZEROS meas something is very wrong.
Whne se3tting up a router for the first fat time, you use the Ethernet port only with just one computer. No wireless or internet.
On the bottom of the case it should give the IP you must use to setup the router.
I deleted one of your posts. Please don't offer rewards on this site. This forum exists to help solve technical problems - we don't need any further incentive. And please don't bump your posts. Thank you.I noticed in Device Manager you have some devices without drivers. I know you have the driver for your Ethernet installed, but it may help to resolve these issues first.please provide full details of the router device, MODEL of the device, how are you connected to the device. we need more details man. try resetting your router. did you set your ipv4 settings to a dynamic ip?

Hello people

For already a while now, I am trying to compile Freenet.

For those of you who do not know Freenet; Freenet is one of the "darknet"/privacy tools, OTHERS like it include TOR, Retroshare, i2p, Meshnet, and a couple others as well.

On the whole Internet, I could only find three tutorials, two clearnet, and one darknet

These are the links to the clearnet ones:

• http://kkpradeeban.blogspot.nl/2014/03/building-freenet-from-source-on-windows.html
• https://old-wiki.freenetproject.org/FreenetSourceCompiling

• C:\ant\lib
• C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\lib
• C:\Program Files\Java\jdk1.6.0_45\lib
• C:\Users\Jos Vos\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461\lib

• http://kkpradeeban.blogspot.nl/2014/03/building-freenet-from-source-on-windows.html, and;
• https://old-wiki.freenetproject.org/FreenetSourceCompiling

• C:\ant\lib
• C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\lib
• C:\Program Files\Java\jdk1.6.0_45\lib
• C:\Users\Jos Vos\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461\lib

• C:\Users\Jos Vos\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461
• C:\Users\Jos Vos\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461\lib\freenet
• C:\Users\Niels van Hoof\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461\build
• C:\Users\Niels van Hoof\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461\build\main, and
• C:\Users\Niels van Hoof\Downloads\freenet-build01461-source.tar\freenet-build01461-source\freenet-build01461\build\test

freenet
Web DEFINITIONS

    Freenet is a peer-to-peer platform for censorship-resistant communication. It uses a decentralized distributed data store to store information, and has a suite of free software for working with this data store. ...

anyone kno of a connection/network monitor? I need something that can show me whats connected to my internet.If you are using Windows 7 or above, the Resouce Monitor built into Windows provides this FUNCTIONALITY. Windows XP and VISTA had it too, but it is much HARDER to use.

Just hit the start button and type resource monitor and it will appear for you.

I've connected to my wireless internet at the house, its from at&t, and my computer says that it is connected and I PULL up the home page but whenever I type anything it the internet does nothing. I'm not good at this stuff and have no CLUE what to try and do. Check the signal strength of your connection, It MAY also be possible that the security key you entered while creating the connection was incorrect.

Verify that there are no yellow triangles with a ! mark over your connection icon.

To GIVE step by step instructions we will need to know the Operating SYSTEM you are using.

My laptop won't connect via ethernet cable! The cable works fine with other laptops, but when I plug it in nothing happens. I've tried disabling the wireless, but that doesn't do ANYTHING either! Any suggestions?Verify that the NIC ( network adapter) is set to enabled in network properties under control panel. If not found, and only wireless listed, look in Device Manager and see if its complaining about any hardware devices in yellow ! or red x.

When did this problem show up? After a clean install or just all of a sudden etc? Hopefully not after Cat5 cable yanked from system improperly etc by a child or pet running through it etc.It worked about a month ago, but now for some reason I can't find anything that had to do with direct connecting.

http://gyazo.com/a766499bcfc6b327134692a0a20340fe - Is that what I'm supposed to be looking at?Could it be my drivers?bumpNo need to bump ...

Anyways, looked at your screenshot and you will want to select "Change Adapter SETTINGS" this will show the adapters PRESENT. You then can select the wired adapter if its displayed there and check to make SURE its enabled. To do this you left-click the adapter and are given a menu of options. If enable is an option then it needs to be enabled. If disable is at the top of the list then its already enabled.

It would be odd for a driver to change itself after working in the past with no problems. This is not to say that it is impossible, but very rare that a driver would change. Only driver changes that have caused issues in the past were those through optional microsoft updates which were applied and the updated driver to fix a flaw caused other problems that were not present prior.check to see if the local area connection is disable

A couple curiosities:

I've seen a few home/sb routers whose firewall will drop a TTL of not only 0, but 1 as WELL. Any thoughts on why this is?

Does it make sense to drop even a TTL 0 at the home router level? The packet has already gone through the internets and is now on the cusp of your private network. Why discard it now? SECURITY repercussions?

Thanks.It is to prevent TTL Expiry attacks. Attackers could otherwise craft packets with low TTL values in the header with a spoofed return address, and send it to a router. According to RFC 791, the Router would be required to respond to the return address with a Time EXCEEDED message. The attack is PERFORMED by effectively flooding various Internet-accessible machines with these spoofed packets with low TTL values, and the target address at which point that target address get's flooded with Time Exceeded messages.

it is an attack because these sorts of required responses and Packet issues such as the ICMP reply to expired packets are an exception case, so routers need to 'work harder' to PROPERLY respond to them, which will slow down legitimate traffic particularly when that sysmte is being flooded with them.

What this means is that many routers software/firmware deviate from RFC 791 to combat the system being a participant in such an attack, by discarding packets with low TTL values.Thanks dude!

Hi forum.. I haven't needed you chaps for awhile, but need you now. When I surf the net my ISP statistics show that I am uploading when in fact I am downloading (at least I presume I am) e.g when watching youtube videos. Is my problem due to a bit torrent actually uploading or a YTD  that I downloaded?? I had vuze, azureous on an OLD computer, but have recently purchased a brand new TOWER with Windows 8.1. I had all the info on my old one transferred to new one, but naturally no programmes could be installed.
Any help you can give would be appreciated.
Cheers.If you downloaded a torrent and left the torrent client open, you are seeding that torrent.If you have any free games with Pando Media Booster bundled with them, these games have this service RUNNING and make your system available for others to get game files and updates ETC, and this can cause an upload condition that is unwanted. I had to manually kill Pando Media Booster on a few of my systems when I found it slipped in upon a free game installation. I dont like being the seed when the uploading should be from the original games website servers and not me UNKNOWINGLY offering my hardware out there to become part of the pool of seeds to serve files up for others and suck up "my" upload bandwidth which is 80% less than my download bandwidth. And with the upload choked up with traffic it degrades performance for others on the shared internet connection.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pando_(application)

Quote

Pando Media Booster (PMB) is an application by Pando Networks that is used by game and software publishers to ensure safe, complete and speedy downloads of large files. PMB is primarily used to download MMORPGs. Users of PMB participate in a secure, closed peer-to-peer network where users receive pieces of the download package from a Content Delivery Network (CDN) as well as other active users (peers). PMB is usually packaged and automatically uploaded to a PC without the knowledge of the user. Many times users experience drastically slower downloads of these MMORPGs while PMB is installed. Unlike Pando, PMB cannot be used to send files from the user's computer. PMB is only activated to deliver Pando-enabled downloads from commercial sources such as TV networks, software publishers and gaming companies

A few years ago TOR was introduced as a type of NETWORK to let individuals shelter their IDENTITY on he Internet.
But my question is not about the legal aspects. Rater my question is: Will in work in a region of the world where the government is bent on invading private lives.
Here is a story published about a month ago.
Accessing the Tor network from CHINA
Quote

In a new blog post How to read our China usage graphs, Roger Dingledine looks at the current situation of how Tor is able to circumvent censorship on Chinese Internet accesses. Indeed, if one only looks at the current bridge users graph, one might believe that Tor is not a solution for users in China.

Hi, THANKS for any help that I may receive.

Computer specs
 
Manufacturer: Lenovo
Model: Lenovo Win7pc
RAM: 8.00 GB
System type: 64-bit Operating System

So my computers Wifi stopped working a couple of days ago from a distance. It will still work but only when the computer is located right next to the router. I have determined it probably dosnt have anything to do with the router since other devices seem to work fine. Also I have TRIED to fix it and noticed that the driver  Microsoft Teredo Tunneling ADAPTER has a (code 10). I don't know if that has anything to do with my problems. Also I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem either but i fell asleep with my computer on and when i woke up in the morning i had knocked it off my bed. I have no clue if that had attributed to the problem. Here is a list of things i have tried to do.

1 Restart computer
2 Disable and enable wireless NETWORK adapter as WELL as  the Teredo Tunneling Adapter
3 Trouble shoot.

Thanks for your help Zach

Inside the laptop thee is a small short bit of wire that acts as the antenna. Each laptop is a little different. Maybe the wire broke loose.
Here is- hat I would try.
Get a USB wireless adapter and install it. Disable the built-in wireless.
At Amazon you can get one for $20 and up.  Also Best Buy.
But if you go to a shop to fix your laptop it would cost more.



I think i know what your talking about. There is a wire that is currently broken. Does that wire normally run from the main motherboard to the screen? And thank you so much for your help.  Also is there a way to fix the laptop by buying a new wire and installing it? Or do you need to have pretty good computer skills? I don't know allot about computers but am not afraid to dive in. That model has dual antenna on the left and right top areas of the screen.
https://www.lenovo.com/shop/americas/content/user_guides/e420s_ug.pdf
I have no experience with repairing the antenna wire. Perhaps somebody else here knows how to do it. Normally one would use a small solder iron to tack it back onto the motherboard. May i also ask what would be the best type of wireless antenna for my laptop? Is it normally a usb or one that you insert into the laptop?General Reference.
This video below is NOT for your laptop. It is gee to show how some laptops have removable wireless card and antenna.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QVjgKAmlQw
Each laptop maker has their own design.
If you want to pursue this some more, search for:
Repair Laptop Antenna.
Which gives a list of  videos :
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Repair+Laptop+Antenna.
Perhaps one of those will be like yours.

Is there a way to access the internet through a Computer that runs on Windows 7 /8 and will not be at risk for new exploits? I'm still going to run XP as I have so many good games that will not run on Windows 7 or later OS. I also still run a few older Pentium systems with old GPUs for games that have no hope of running on Win 7 / 8 OS systems.If you have a good Anti Virus app resident at all times and follow safe & smart computing practices (don't visit questionable websites, don't download torrents or anything you aren't 100% certain is safe, don't click on unknown links, etc) the OS is absolutely irrelevant. Quote from: pcurtj1974 on April 24, 2014, 09:08:08 AM

Is there a way to access the internet through a Computer that runs on Windows 7 /8 and will not be at risk for new exploits? I'm still going to run XP as I have so many good games that will not run on Windows 7 or later OS. I also still run a few older Pentium systems with old GPUs for games that have no hope of running on Win 7 / 8 OS systems.

Is there a way to access the internet through a Computer that runs on Windows 7 /8 and will not be at risk for new exploits? I'm still going to run XP as I have so many good games that will not run on Windows 7 or later OS. I also still run a few older Pentium systems with old GPUs for games that have no hope of running on Win 7 / 8 OS systems.

I've been doing this quite a while, and I'm sure it is something simple I'm overlooking, but I've WORKED on this long enough.
I have a primary network x.x.0.1 and a subnet running on off a wireless router x.x.1.1
I have a computer that I reinstalled windows 7pro x64 and has been running on the primary network (shows that it did work)
I installed windows and have it connected to the subnet. It works great. Internet and all that.
I CONNECT the computer to the primary network, and it has network, but no internet. Swith it back and it works fine.
I attached the ipconfig files below.
I figured it was a DNS problem, but it has been working on this network previously. I pinged 8.8.8.8 (google dns) and nothing. I can not get past my Firewall/router/dhcp. I even put the ip address in the DMZ. I have no mac blocking or other addresses at the same ip.
I just don't know. When I can get everyone off, I'm GOING to take out the firewall and see if I still have the problem.
I am even able to post this from the computer. Darndest thing I have ever seen. I'm expecting some obscure mapping on the firewall device, but that should block the subnet too.
I manually entered a different ip address, set the mac to a fixed IP address etc. then removed it and nothing works.

Remember this, dns only points ip address when you enter a doman name so you can ping the IP address regardless.


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin] Quote

I've been doing this quite a while, and I'm sure it is something simple I'm overlooking, but I've worked on this long enough.

I have web server behind NAT and from LOGS I NOTICED that sometimes public address of my router has visited my website.

When real remote visitors come to my site their IPs are logged CORRECTLY, so they are not causing these log entries.
When I visit my website from local PC my local address (192.168...) is logged so that isn't causing this either.

Quote from: Example from log

54.72.x.x  19.04.2014 10:05:53 <- Actual remote visitor
84.251.x.x  19.04.2014 12:41:38 <- Public IP of my router

Please people, what command prompt i ca use to now all IP addresses(all devices and COMPUTERS) on my network(LAN)
 Not sure what you need.
Start with ipconfig
Code: [Select]Microsoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.
C:\Documents and Settings\Kohn>ipconfig
Windows IP Configuration
Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection 2:
        Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : gateway.2wire.net
        IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.71
        Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
        Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.254
C:\Documents and Settings\Kohn>
You can use ipconfig /? to see options.
Does that help any?
Here is a list of references to ARCHIVE articles:
trace LAN IPs]
Yoy may have to look at the first twenty references to see if that relates to your request. Please come back and re state  your question.
I once used a batch program that tested for 1 to 255 for a defined address range.

similar to this:

Code: [Select]echo. Running Network IP Address Node Scan
echo. Please wait for the completed message in about 255 SECONDS
ping 192.168.1.1 -n 1 >>whatslive.log
ping 192.168.1.2 -n 1 >>whatslive.log
ping 192.168.1.3 -n 1 >>whatslive.log
ping 192.168.1.4 -n 1 >>whatslive.log
ping 192.168.1.5 -n 1 >>whatslive.log
....
....
....
ping 192.168.1.255 -n 1 >>whatslive.log
echo. Scan Completed
pause
with the .... portion covering the range of 192.168.1.6 thru 192.168.1.254 which I wasnt going to type that all out, but you get the point if you want to run with it placing it into a batch file. This could be seriously coded way better and a true false can be added to write to log file if the IP responds as successful or unsuccessful.

And then after 255 seconds its done scroll through the log file that is created and I know what IP's are in use.

As far as "Trace" if thats what you want to do, its a Traceroute from each system, but if you want to see all traffic I would suggest using a tool like wireshark in which you can CAPTURE all network traffic and see what systems were communicating in and outbound and you can save the capture file and dig deeper into it if needed. There is no command prompt utility I know of that works as WELL as wireshark and wireshark is a GUI application.

How to get Free Bandwidth Monitoring Tools
Here is a short  list... click  link below for full text.
When your local Internet Provider says you have a bandwidth limit, you may wish to check and see if you have a leak. For one thing, don't leave the  PC on all  the  time. But watch out for applications that constantly send data for no clear reason.
Quote

ISP Monitor
ISP Monitor also allows you to check your Internet speed; after all you should get the speed you actually pay for. ...

Cucusoft Net GUARD
Net Guard is free software to monitor your broadband usage and kill malware that waste your bandwidth

FreeMeter is another very simple, easy-to-USE portable network monitoring and diagnosis tool ...

Pando Media Booster

Pando Media Booster (PMB) is an application by Pando Networks that is used by game and software publishers to ENSURE safe, complete and speedy downloads of large files. PMB is primarily used to download MMORPGs. Users of PMB participate in a secure, closed peer-to-peer network where users receive pieces of the download package from a Content Delivery Network (CDN) as well as other active users (peers). PMB is usually packaged and automatically uploaded to a PC without the knowledge of the user. Many times users experience drastically slower downloads of these MMORPGs while PMB is installed. Unlike Pando, PMB cannot be used to send files from the user's computer. PMB is only activated to deliver Pando-enabled downloads from commercial sources such as TV networks, software publishers and gaming companies

Unlike Pando, PMB cannot be used to send files from the user's computer. PMB is only activated to deliver Pando-enabled downloads from commercial sources such as TV networks, software publishers and gaming companies

Hi,

So to start with i was away from home for about 24 hours to go home and stay with my parents. Ive got a desktop with Vista Business and a laptop with Windows 7.
Before i WENT back to my parents house everyhing was running smoothly and no problems. But when i got home today i cant connect to the internet on either my desktop or my laptop. When i was at my parents house i used my laptop on their network with no problems. But anyway, first thing i do is to call my internet provider, and they got me to ping a server using the cmd which worked so they said that the problem was not with the connection. And when i look at my connections it does say that i am connected to the internet. I have tried all of my browsers aswell, Chrome, IE and Firefox. So the next thing i did was to see if i could find some help on the internet and ive got hold of a very helpful guy that tried everything, we tried to to netch i think it was called and we tried to FLUSH the DNS (i have no idea what it is) aswell as restarting the router. I have a wireless connection, but while i was getting help he told me to connect the laptop with a cabel but it still didnt help.

Really hope someone can help me because i have no idea what to do  Hello,

Sorry to hear this issue. one thing you can try is go to start > RUN > type in the run box cmd and the command prompt will open. Next type the following ipconfig /release and HIT enter, and once that is completed hit the up arrow once and that will bring up your last command and replace release with renew and hit enter. So in total it should be

ipconfig /release
ipconfig /renew

Let me know if this works.do a ipconfig , check to see if your IP Address  start with 192 or 169

My computer shows me as connected to my INTERNET, and I can LOAD like ONE webpage but then internet stops working until I disconnect and RECONNECT and then I can load like one more we page until it stops working. Pls help! Thx

I have windows  8have you try to USE multiple browser. Google chrome Firefox, safari

The recommendation to Use Random Psswords is so obvious, yet so many do not. Why should they be random? So bad people will not guess and  enter your account!
Here is a good article:
Quote

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Random_password_generator
A random password generator is software program or hardware device that takes input from a random or pseudo-random number generator and AUTOMATICALLY generates a password. Random passwords can be generated manually, using simple sources of randomness such as dice or coins, or they can be generated using a computer.

While there are many examples of "random" password generator programs available on the Internet, generating randomness can be tricky and many programs do not generate random characters in a way that ensures strong security. A common recommendation is to use open source security tools where possible, since they allow independent checks on the quality of the methods used. Note that simply generating a password at random does not ensure the password is a strong password, because it is possible, although highly unlikely, to generate an easily guessed or cracked password. In fact there is no need at all for a password to have been produced by a perfectly random process: it just needs to be sufficiently difficult to guess

I would like to check what devices are connected to the router, and I think the page shown below is the correct place to check?



My questions:

1. What the "EXPIRES In" column means?
    Sometimes there are two entries for the same device with different time remaining.

2. Why the wireless devices are listed here instead of "Wireless Clients"?

Thank you.1.  Any connected device is given a lease for a fixed period of time.  The amount of time is somewhere else, looks like it could be 24hrs.  That doesn't mean that the device is still connected now.  It could be the 1st two on the list never expire (i.e. expires in 0 sec).
2.  The Devices are the Clients.  Doesn't matter if they are wireless or wired, all are clients.It means when a device is connected, the clock will start counting down from 24 hours. Even after the device is disconnected, the clock would continue to run.

1. Why would some devices have no expiry time?

2. How can I know which devices are currently connected?

3. How can I know which devices are connected via LAN and WLAN respectively?

Recently I've noticed that one or more wireless devices are draining the bandwidth of the internet connection. If the WLAN is turned off, the speed is normal, but if it's turned on, it'll drop drastically. So I'm trying to monitor and figure out which device is at fault.

Btw, is there any utility tool that can show the bandwidth usage of each connected device?

Thanks !


D-Link DSL2730U is a combination modem & router, probably provided by your ISP.
It appears that this model is not sold or used in North America.
Are you located in Iran or India?
User manual seems to be multi-lingual.
http://www.dlink.ir//files/products/DSL-2730U%20%20Guide.pdf
ftp://support.dlink.co.in/broadband/DSL-2730U/manual/DSL-2730U_Manual_v1.00%28WW%29.pdfYes, it's provided by my ISP, I'm from Malaysia.

My modem looks different from the one in your link.


Quote from: MICHAEL on March 17, 2014, 08:01:27 PM

It means when a device is connected, the clock will start counting down from 24 hours, and even after the device is disconnected, the clock would continue to run?

1. Why would some devices have no expiry time?

2. How can I know which devices are currently connected?

Btw, is there any utility tool that can show the bandwidth usage of each connected device?

I am really rubbish at computers and need some help. I was clearing through my laptop and was uninstalling that I had downloaded and things that I never used and I uninstalled something by mistake and it caused my wireless to stop WORKING. I realised that I shouldnt of uninstalled it half way through and turned the laptop off but it was too LATE, it had been uninstalled.
If anyone could be a major help and tell me how to install the software back to get my wireless working again I would be so grateful.
My laptop is a Advent 4490 and runs on Windows XP
Thanks xSee if system RESTORE helpsDid the restore WORK?

First of all. This is my very first time that I post here. So be kind to me. 

Before I talk about my issue at hand this is the information of my OPERATING system. I have a Windows 7 Home PREMIUM Computer, 64 bit Operating System, and Service Pack 1 and I use a Bolse 300mbps B0-N1557 Wireless USB Adapter.


My problem is I can't wirelessly get online. Wired I can. In my Control Panel, Network and INTERNET, Manage Wireless Networks.... I don't see the list of networks in Manage Wireless Networks. There all gone Also when I Manually try to setup a New Connection Or Network in Network and Sharing Center I get an error message saying An Unexpected Error Occurred.  I tried setting up a network in Network and Sharing Center and I get no luck there. I have also tried trouble shooting the problem as well and get another message saying The Wireless Network Adapter is Experiencing Problems and it goes further on to say There might be a problem with the driver for the Wireless Network Connection 3 Adapter. But my Wireless Adapter is brand new. Just got it no more than a day ago.... I don't know what to do and don't know where else to turn to. I hope anyone here can help. Hope to hear back from anyone.



Ralgonzo Quote

But my Wireless Adapter is brand new. Just got it no more than a day ago.... I don't know what to do and don't know where else to turn to. I hope anyone here can help. Hope to hear back from anyone.

Note:
1. Windows 8/7 users can plug-&-play without the CD.
2. Support Mac OS X 10.4 above, Please download the Mac Driver.
3. Won't work with Xbox 360, PS3, Blu-Ray, Roku, devices without operating systems (OS), or dual band routers only broadcasting N-speeds on 5GHz wavelength.
4. Currently this adapter doesn't work with windows 8.1. - See more at: http://www.mybolse.com/products_more.asp?id=88#sthash.0owwUOu7.dpuf