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I have a linksys WRT54GS wireless router and a Sprint 660 Modem and I am using Windows Vista. I can get internet by connecting with a wire to the router but not wirelessly only getting local connection with wireless.

Settings for Linksys Router:
Internet Connection TYPE
Automatic Configuration - DHCP


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Optional Settings
(required by some ISPs)
Router Name:
Host Name:
Domain Name:
MTU: Auto
Size: Greyed out but says 1500

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Network Setup
Router IP
Local IP Address: 192 . 168 . 1 . 5
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0

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Network Address
Server Settings (DHCP)
DHCP Server: Enabled
Starting IP Address: 192.168.1. 6
Maximum Number of DHCP Users: 5
Client Lease Time: 9999 minutes (0 means one day)
Static DNS 1: . . .
Static DNS 2: . . .
Static DNS 3: . . .
WINS: . . .

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Settings for the Sprint 660 Series Modem:

System Status

System Name: EMBARQ
ZyNOS F/W Version: V3.40(ACZ.9) | 11/07/2007
DSL FW Version:TI AR7 07.00.02.00
Standard:ADSL_G.dmt




WAN Information

IP Address:71.54.108.243
IP Subnet Mask:255.255.248.0
Default Gateway:71.54.104.1
Active DNS:0.0.0.0
Primary DNS:65.40.202.102
Secondary DNS:76.7.255.188
VPI/VCI:8/ 35




LAN Information

MAC Address:00:23:f8:88:8a:0d
IP Address: 192.168.2.1
IP Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
DHCP: Server
DHCP Start IP: 192.168.2.2
DHCP Pool Size: 32
Primary DNS: 0.0.0.0
Secondary DNS: 0.0.0.0

IPCONFIG in Command Prompt when used on my Vista when connected to the router wired AND wirelessly:

Microsoft Windows [Version 6.0.6001]
Copyright (c) 2006 Microsoft Corporation. All RIGHTS reserved.

Windows IP Configuration

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::7d3f:1d04:ff9c:8b14%11
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.6
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.5

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::69dc:17d0:fe1e:82cd%10
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.8
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.5

Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 6:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:4137:9e50:1cba:9497:b8c9:9283
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::1cba:9497:b8c9:9283%12
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::

Need any more info just ask although i doubt u will.


P.S. dont really care if u guys know all this .

also do i need to look into bridging my modem with my Router? and exactly what IS bridging and what does it do? Oh AND whats the difference between LAN and WAN?Bridging joins two networks together as if they are the same network. Essentially a bridge just unintelligently forwards all packets received on one network to the other network. You probably don't need bridging.

The WAN is the Wide Area Network - i.e. your ISP's side of the modem. The LAN is the Local Area Network - i.e. your side of the modem. In this case you actually have two LANs. The 192.168.2.x subnet just includes the modem and the router. The 192.168.1.x network includes the devices within your home network. In other words, your router is on 192.168.1.x on the home side and 129.168.2.x on the modem side. Your modem is on 192.168.2 on the router side and 71.54.104.0/21 (I won't bore you with the subnest mask maths) on your ISP's side.

You could try manually adding DNS entries to your router and PCs as per your ISP, i.e. primary DNS:65.40.202.102 and secondary DNS:76.7.255.188.

I would be interested to see the output of IPCONFIG /ALL in two scenarios: when your computer is only connected by a cable and when it is only connected wirelessly.

What does it mean if my wireless router is rated "N"? What are the other router ratings?802.11n is the third-generation Wi-Fi standard for wireless home networking. 802.11n equipment is backward COMPATIBLE with older 802.11g or 802.11b gear, and it supports much faster wireless connections over longer distances.

So-called Wireless N or Draft N routers available today are based on a preliminary version of the 802.11n industry specification. They are not guaranteed to fully interoperate with future 802.11n products.Quote from: Mulreay on June 21, 2009, 04:03:43 PM

802.11n is the third-generation Wi-Fi standard for wireless home networking. 802.11n equipment is backward compatible with older 802.11g or 802.11b gear, and it supports much faster wireless connections over longer distances.

So-called Wireless N or Draft N routers available today are based on a preliminary version of the 802.11n industry specification. They are not guaranteed to fully interoperate with future 802.11n products.

Have a look around here if your having issues: Good look mate let me know how you are getting on.

http://lifehacker.com/software/lifehacker-top-10/top-10-wi+fi-boosts-tweaks-and-apps-306436.php

*SCARED*Oh ok...I'll never do it again! I am so sorry! Please don't hurt me!

Is using HTTPS sufficient enough when using public wireless access points? For instance, would I be safe checking my online bank statement using a public access point, if the bank website uses HTTPS for encrypting data?Not if the workstation has been compromised and a keylogger installed. NEVER trust hardware you don't control! It's far safer to call your bank on the phone.Are you saying that if a hacker was using the same access point as me, he could install a keylogger into my system?

Software FIREWALLS don't make any DIFFERENCE?Sorry - I misread your original question. I thought you were talking about public access terminals. Public wireless generally is not significantly less secure than your own wireless setup at home. SSL over HTTP does improve your chances of keeping your transaction encrypted, secure and private and a cracker would have to be pretty determined to get anywhere.

The risk is that the system you're using is compromised in such a way that it transparently shows you a bogus website in place of your bank's real website. That's unlikely, but with router DNS attacks being on the rise, it's one of the most significant attack VECTORS in the scenario you're contemplating.

The other risk is a sniffing attack but your SSL transaction would be very difficult to penetrate.Quote from: Rob Pomeroy on June 11, 2009, 05:16:26 AM

The risk is that the system you're using is compromised in such a way that it transparently shows you a bogus website in place of your bank's real website. That's unlikely, but with router DNS attacks being on the rise, it's one of the most significant attack vectors in the scenario you're contemplating.

It's more scary than that. You know how most people access the internet through a router? Those routers can be reprogrammed so that when the home user tries to go to ABC Bank, the router goes off to a criminal's replica of that bank's website. This is done in such a way that the end user would not be aware of the redirection. To be honest, even hardened gurus would find it difficult to spot such a thing. It is vitally important that routers are secure, that their web interfaces are not accesible from the internet and that the passwords are not left at their default.

Hi. I’d be very grateful indeed for any help with an extremely annoying problem: almost every time I connect to the internet, I lose the ability to view web pages after a certain period of time. This happens even though my laptop’s wireless connection to my router remains operative and uninterrupted, and I am apparently still connected to the internet.

I usually get cut off after about 30 minutes of surfing, though it sometimes happens after as little as 5 minutes, whilst at other times I can continue to surf indefinitely. The only way I can start viewing web pages again is to restart my computer, but then I’m just waiting for the next cut-off.

The cut-off does not appear to affect streaming media: I can continue, for example, to listen to an internet radio programme after I’ve lost the ability to surf (provided I’ve begun listening to it before the cut-off). Also, I can still use Google Earth and download updates for antivirus software & WINDOWS Update – but I can’t use my download manager, Gigaget. Seemingly, then, the only things I lose are the ability to view web pages and to download with Gigaget.

The problem occurs in both Firefox and Internet Explorer 8 (it also happened in IE7). It does not happen when I use a wired connection (it’s not practical, however, for me to use a wired connection all the time). Vista’s Network & Sharing Centre consistently RATES the wireless signal from my router as ‘excellent’ and continues to register a live connection to the internet – even when I’ve lost the ability to view web pages.

I can still ping after a cut-off, usually with the loss of no packets (although one or two occasionally go astray). (I’m not sure I quite understand what this means, but pinging is suggested in various places where wifi connection problems are discussed.)

There seems to be no shortage of other people experiencing the same problem, and plenty of proposed solutions, but none of those I’ve tried so far has worked. Inter alia:

- Restart browser
- Run browser with add-ons disabled
- Turn off computer’s wifi card for 10 seconds
- Unplug router for 10 seconds
- Change wifi channel
- Diagnose & Repair connection (in Network & Sharing Centre): I get the message ‘Windows did not find any problems with your internet connection’
- Run > cmd > ipconfig /release > ipconfig /flushdns > ipconfig /renew
- Get rid of CLTNetCnService, a part of Norton Antivirus (a trial version of which was preinstalled) which didn’t disappear when I uninstalled the programme, and which has been fingered as the culprit for this problem elsewhere.

Some other information about my setup:
- Sony Vaio VGN-N38E laptop
- LAN-Express AS IEEE 802.11g PCI-E Adapter (built-in; driver up-to-date)
- ZoneAlarm Basic firewall
- Avast Antivirus
- Spybot TeaTimer running (problem present even if Teatimer disabled)
- Vista Home Premium SP2 – recently carried out a full reinstall, but problem present before & after. I keep Vista fully up-to-date.
- BT Home Hub 2 router (proprietary router supplied by my ISP, BT – i.e. British Telecom)
- Happy to supply other information if needed

All suggestions will be most gratefully received, though, as you’ve no doubt guessed, I am no computer whizz: if anyone is able to reply to this post, I’d be very grateful if they could do so in the simplest language possible. This also means that if you need any further information, you might have to tell me exactly where to look! (Also, while I’m very keen to resolve this problem, I only connect to the internet once a day or so, so please don’t be offended if I don’t reply straightaway. In any case, the nature of the problem obviously requires that any proposed solution be tested for a little while first.)

Many thanks in advance
Feels like a problem with the BT router to me. Failing that a faulty wireless card. First thing I'd try is check whether a second wirelessly connected machine (if available) experiences the same fault at the same time. Have you tried rebooting the router during the outage? Have you looked for updated drivers for your network card?Thank you very much indeed for your reply. In response to your suggestions:

- I also have a Linux machine; it has never experienced this problem.

- Rebooting the router does not rectify the problem; the only way I've found to restart surfing is to reboot the computer.

- My wireless card's driver is up-to-date.

A further point (which I should perhaps have made in my first posting): the problem is not specific to this router: it also happened with a previous BT router. (However, (i) in researching this problem on the internet, I have not discovered it to be specific to / preponderant in BT routers; (ii) I have never connected wirelessly to any other router apart from these two.)

Thanks again & kind regardsOkay, good well that does narrow it down.

One of the issues with wireless networking is that while there are agreed international standards (IEEE 802.11g etc.) each manufacturer implements the standard a little differently. So supposedly compatible devices from different vendors MAY have subtle issues. It is usually very difficult to diagnose exactly where the ISSUE is arising - generally I give up and try a different bit of hardware.

In your case, the most logical (to me) options are to try older drivers for the wireless card or try a different (USB) wireless card. They aren't too pricey - you should be able to pick up one for £10-20 on eBay or elsewhere. I don't think you have the option of trying a firmware upgrade on the router (as a long shot) because when connected to a BT network, BT upgrades these boxes remotely and without your permission...!Thank you very much for your input - I'm very grateful.

There's no option to roll back the driver for my wireless card in Device Manager - I guess the laptop must have come with what's considered the most up-to-date driver preinstalled. I'll investigate if an older driver is available and, if that doesn't work, try a USB card instead. (Incidentally, my laptop's two USB ports are right next to each other and I ALREADY use a USB wireless keyboard + mouse - if I plug in a USB wifi card right beside the receiver for my peripherals, is there a risk of interference?)

Very many thanks againThere are known issues between wifi and Bluetooth. People experience varying degrees of success. Setting your router to transmit at one of the extreme ends of the 2.4Ghz spectrum (either channel 1 or 13) would help but would also knock out any "Super G" (128mbps) capabilities of the router in the process.

More technical info >here<.Thanks for that, and for all your very helpful replies. I'm very grateful to you for pointing some possible ways forward.

Thanks again & kind regards

I have cable Internet. My ISP PROVIDES me with 1 IP.

I want to connect to two hosts(i.e. computers) simultaneously. That is my goal.

I have a few questions:

First, I believe what I need is a router. Is that CORRECT?

I bought a switch which only allows one device to actually be connected at a time, but I have heard of "smart SWITCHES" that can act as a router, as well, and I know how to console in and go from there. The switch is advertised as a "5 port 10/100 ethernet switch" and only cost me around $25, so I would ASSUME it cannot do routing functions. Is that right?

Also, if my switch is incapable of routing, could I possibly do it with the cable modem?

It has one port on the back. Do modems often double as a router?


Much appreciated.You may simply be ABLE to place your cable modem (connected presumably by USB cable?) with a cable router, with ethernet ports. That's the easiest route. Otherwise you can use any onld hub/switch (or even a crossover cable) to connect your two computers and then enable Internet Connection Sharing on the one with the modem. But that's a messier solution that requires at least one of the computers to be on for either of them to get a connection.

Hello,
Looks like I will have to purchase another Router as this BT HomeHub will not CONNECT to any wireless device since it updated itself overnight. I do have an old Sky Router, a Netgear, I was WONDERING if I COULD re-flash it so I could use it, as it worked great when I had Sky Broadband, if not, then it's a trip to PC World, and goodbye to as good as £50, BTY, other people with this problem have been sent new Routers by BT, but they have the same problem, tried all the tricks, like CHANGING channel, and changing the security to WEP, but nothing will work since the update, if anyone has an answer I could save £50.
Cheers
DR
PaulAll SORTED, turned out to be a Driver update on the Toshiba Laptop Wireless Adaptor.

I am using net through DSL ROUTER Huwai. I am using right now this ip address 192.168.1.1 its my default gateway I am using through DHCP which is set in my router.
I want to something.

can I change ip range from Class C to Class A.
if I change then ip range will be.

Most important can I set ip address to 10. 0 .0 .1 (I want to change later 3 ip address different in each different pcs) is it possible e.g
PC1 (10.5.11.112), PC2 (10.11.15.130) PC3 (10.15.20.150)

Please UNDERSTAND my point I want to change ip address for each pcs like above I mentioned is it possible. Please TELL me in detail.

Yes, absolutely. Remember to get the subnet mask right. If you want all computers to be able to see each other, you want a mask of 255.0.0.0 here.

Hi!

I'm having trouble accessing my NAS-disk from all the computers in my network. I have a wired Netgear router that's connected to the internet. One computer and a wireless D-link router is connected to the Netgear router with cat5 cables. The NAS is connected to the wireless D-link with a cat5 cable. There are several laptops connected wirelessly to the D-link.

Currently, everything seems to work like I want it, except I cannot access the NAS from the computer that is wired to the Netgear router. The internet connection works fine on all computers.

What do I have to do in order to be able to access the NAS from all the computers? Any help is GREATLY appreciated! Thanks for your time!!!! This COMES out of left field, but just double-check that all computers have the same subnet mask... ("ipconfig" at a command prompt.)Thanks for replying ROB!

Yep, they are the same (255.255.255.0). I just found out I cannot access ANYTHING at all connected to the D-link from the stationary computer that is wired to the Netgear. It is as if the D-link does not exist when I try to access it from the stationary. All the laptops can access both routers.

I know very little about networks, so I may have missed something elementary... Should this normally work when the settings on both routers are factory DEFAULT? Or do I need to change something? Thanks!

When you were at school did they load some software so you could connect to there network....the most popular is put out by CISCO.

I would say that the software is still on your machine. If you don't plan on GOING back to school or connecting remotly with some client software than I would look into removing it. If you are going back than leave it alone.

Ping is no big deal....you don't need it to get on the web.....

The latency can be from many things....how busy the servers are...how much traffic is on them...how much traffic is on your ISP....etc...

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on May 13, 2009, 08:52:25 AM

Change what?

If it makes you feel any better, none of my computers can ping www.microsoft.com. It's not a problem with your computer.

The topic states, Red Hat to Windows. It is not very descriptive. Even I thought, at this point, that you were still trying to work things out on the Linux side.

I'm assuming, at this point, you've migrated the "box" away from Red Hat to a version of Windows?oh ha sorry I see why you thought that. NO I attempting to GET the linux side working.Quote from: squall_01 on May 19, 2009, 09:39:50 AM

did you even read the topic of this thread?

I am at work right now but my buddies desktop XP is not picking up the WiFi. I am a little new with wireless connections but when i was looking at it his SUBNET mask was set to 255.255.0.0 the one he has up stairs is connected to a router and it is working with 255.255.255.0 school taught me that it is supposed to be like this but i don't know MUCH about this WiFi. the wifi also has no DNS number. i know how to change the subnet but don't know what to do for the DNS. Any suggestions about this or what else i need to give y'all to be able to help me. Any replies would be much appreciated.
THANKS, CIf his network wirelessnetwork is setup with DHCP enabled to spit out IP leases, it should issue an IP and as long as network properties are set to obtain IP and DNS you should connect. If security has been enabled you will need PROPER credentials to connect such as WEP or WPA Key or Passphrase etc.

i set up a wireless router so i can use two pcs and a LAPTOP on the net at home. its been working for over a year now. Now when ever my laptop is online, the internet DISCONNECTS and reconnects after every 5 SECS or so. but when two of the pcs are online it doesn't do this, only when my laptop is online with the pcs. i have no IDEA WHATS going on. any help is appreciated.

I recently bought a refurbished Dell Latitude D600 laptop, running windows XP. Sometimes when I boot up wireless is present and works fine for as long as the computer is on. Other TIMES it doesn't work, and either doesn't APPEAR in device manager or appears with a yellow exclam next to it (!).

When this happens, "smartcardbus controller" also appears in device manager with (!) next to it, so I've been suspecting a device conflict, but when I go into the resources tab, instead of listing a conflict it says "This device isn't using any resources because it has a problem."

Also, often when I startup I get two beeps and a screen that says "press F1 to continue, F2 to enter setup." But not always.

Does anyone have any ideas here, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here are a few things I've already tried, to no avail:
-updated the drivers
-updated BIOS
-replaced the wireless card with a new one

Thanks all...Is this laptop still COVERED by warranty? If so you might want to inquire about this and get another. This sounds serious when you are getting press F1 or F2 to continue etc, like a HARDWARE failure.Actually yes--in fact I'm sending it back today...I finally just GAVE up on it.

Hello,

I am migrating a Windows 2003 IIS server to a more powerful server, but now when I try to test a .php it I got a "401 login required". HTML file are working fine.

IUSR has been given the correct permissions on the wwwroot FOLDER.
.php has been mapped to php4isapi.dll
I have followed most of this to try to troubleshoot but without success.

I WONDER if you've mixed CGI with ISAPI somehow?

The FIRST place I'd START is to rip PHP out completely, then start again, following the official guides: >here< and >here< - but perhaps you've already done that?

This is making us(me and mom) wonder if this might not work right since port 21 has to be open. Due to another SITE, Webkinz that I use and some problems with the site not working right- in the instructions they sent back in an email, one was to make sure port 21 is open. They did not tell us how to check these settings though. So, we have not been able to do this step since we do not know how to do this.
For those that don't know what webkinz is, it's a site that we build websites on, play games, build rooms for our pets we got, chat with others, etc...
Then at the end of the email says if this doesn't work to contact our ISP and make sure security settings on the modem are not set to high. Which since we haven't even checked the settings for the ports, have not called our ISP about this last step of what to do.
Thought of something to add to this. Just now typed in a search for port forwarding to try and UNDERSTAND what exactly this means. Found a site that allows to test ports, and if I click on 21, it says it's closed. Same for the other port http 80 is closed too. Here is the url for the site I found and it tells us our external address at the top of the page, then down the side has DIFFERENT ports to click on. http://www.yougetsignal.com/tools/open-ports/

So, since we need port 21 to be open for backing up websites, and it's not, looks like the tool for backing up my sites that are on Geocities isn't going to work. http://portforward.com/routers.htmI just went to the site you gave me, but don't understand anything or what to even do at this site.
It says about setting up the router. I thought it already was setup already. If it wasn't then I don't see how we would be online right now. It was bought when we switched from Earthlink dialup to Bellsouth DSL about a couple years ago. It is a wired router running from my computer to my mom's and we have the external modem too that they sent us. My nephew and his dad tried to help get us setup. His dad did the wiring and sense my nephew is better at computer stuff than his dad and has helped others setup the stuff at their homes and stuff did the rest of the stuff. Of course they did run into some problems though and we did have to call a repairman to find out why my mom's computer wouldn't connect and was due to some connector things in the wall not holding together right.
Still don't understand how this has to do with backing up my sites on Geocities that is leaving soon.
Should we call a repairman to help with this or would ISP be better one to call? We don't understand a thing about what all to do here and afraid we will mess something up with our internet since it looks like it has to do with internet settings by a video on Youtube on port forwarding and so many other stuff. What
Ok I just looked at that site and relized that they didnt have the right program there anyways, Try calling the ispBefore calling them, could someone please tell me what exactly to tell them? Like what program it is we need? Don't understand what we are even doing either. So, maybe someone can explain this a bit better. never heard of port forwarding until now. Tell them you need to open port 21 and whyjust checking, you are using a router? And do you know what the brand of that router is?

I have a linksys router and port forwarding is not difficult to set up ... well, at least that's how I get port forwarding to work on my computer I use That will be a problem, they don't help with routers. They keep saying that they only help if you can't get connected to the Internet, and we are connected to the internet.
Yes, it is a Linksys router. My nephew and his dad came and set everything up for us a couple years ago when we switched from Earthlink Dialup to Bellsouth DSL. Only thing is that we did end up having to call a repairman to help get things working because my mom's computer would not connect to the Internet. The modem and the router are both hooked to my computer which is in the bedroom and goes out to my mom's computer and we have it setup doing wired.
I don't even understand what port forwarding is even for in the first place. Could someone explain that to us?


1. Check out this link I listed below, it has instructions on how to configure a linksys router (maybe what you have might LOOK a bit different than what they have because it's either different router model or different router software but should be similar since it's all linksys stuff.)

http://www.dnsexit.com/support/knowledge_base/router/Linksys-2.htm

Note: when it asks you to enter password and uername, type admin as the password and leave the place where you can type in the username empty (that is the default login information if you have not manually changed the login details yourself)


2. Regarding port foprwarding, Port forwarding is letting the router know which ports to forward to which local machine. As the remote machines (usually the ones servicing the server or the website that you are attempting to connect to) do not know about what computers you have connected to your router, if a port is required, port forwarding tells the remote machine where the your machines are. Hopefully this helps, it's just a really short simplistic explanation of port forwarding.
I don't understand why we are needing to do port forwarding anyways? We are already connected to the Internet. We wouldn't be if the router wasn't working. Like I said, my nephew and his dad got the modem and router hooked up for us when we switched from Earthlink dialup to Bellsouth DSL. But then like I said, we had to call a repairman because my mom's computer wouldn't connect to the Internet and our ISP wasn't helping us much on this and kept saying it was a problem with the router and it wasn't. It was a problem with the connectors in the wall.
I did just try to login though and look around though and looks like the hacker has changed the password, maybe even the username too. Both mine and mom's computers keeps having terrible problems with hacking, spyware, viruses, all that stuff.
The only thing I'm trying to do is backup my websites that are on Geocities since they will be leaving soon. I think maybe July 1st. Yeah.... Yahoo is retiring geocities so it will no longer be in service.

There are things you just have to do, and it's not always going to be just simple as just being onto the internet and everything works. You'll need to tell your computer to do specific things at times, port forwarding being one of them if it's necessary. This makes sure computer talks with port properly if it isn't already. A port is open, but some APPLICATIONS may not be able to communicate with that port without port forwarding.


Well, did you check out the instructions from the link I sent? Hopefully you get things to work, sorry you're having so much difficulties. Maybe when the technicians come to your house, ask them your specific questions and have them explain to you step by step what's happening.
After reading more about this my mom is scared for us to do any of this. She is afraid that this is going to mess something up and things are working just fine.
Also is thinking that port forwarding is something we don't want to do in the first place. It says it's for setting up a public service on the network.
What service would this be? We already have our Internet setup and connected all the time ever since getting DSL. We have Bellsouth.
The other thing it says this, so makes me wonder if we don't want to do this after all,
Why no FTP port? First of all, the less ports open, the more secure your home network is from the Internet.
Then the other thing too we are reading on this page too is this at the bottom-
The changes take place immediately and you should be able to access your webserver by typing in the IP number of your DSL or Cable Modem (WAN IP number).
Wouldn't this already be setup though since we are connected? Makes it sound like we are setting up the Internet.

We haven't even called any technicians and don't even know if we need one in the first place. Wouldn't even know who to call since the last ones we called, they did things that we didn't like, so don't want to use them anymore. One of them broke my scanner, and the other one seems to have caused worse problems too. I guess if this is something that needs to be done maybe my nephew can do this since he setup the router when we got Bellsouth DSL.

certainly, don't want to get another problem on your pc in addition to all the troubles already faced. Port forwarding is not really difficult to do but I'd suggest you get your nephew, a technician or someone knowledgeable that can go over and help you in person to do it for you if you are worried.

But as for open ports, if you have a firewall, an antivirus protection software at least, I think you should be okay. I hope everything goes alright for you

And like I said, there are things that you need to do so that the internet knows what you want it to do, It's not like the internet is connected and everything will instantly work without some configurations now and then.

OK, I have a Dell Dimension 2400 and a Compaq Presario 6000.
I have my Dell connected to AT&T Yahoo DSL via a Motorola single port modem.
I want to hook up the Presario in the office and leave the Dell in the dining room.

I TRIED to do this with the Network Wizard thingee but when I got to this part:
"This computer connects directly to the Internet. The other computers on my network connect through this computer" it told me I could not do that.

I am assuming that's because I have a single port modem. So, What hardware do I need?
I went to Circuit City last night to get a 'Wireless Router' but when I got there I realized that I really didn't know what I needed to buy, there were so many options.

Can you help me? Do I just need any kind of wireless router? And is that ALL? Or do I need some additional type of 'antenna' or something? I'm so frustrated!

THANK YOU SO MUCH!Seems to me that all you need is a standard Wireless-G Router. There are more advanced options, like Wireless-N which offers better range and speed, but for home/ home office use Wireless-G is good enough. There plenty of Wireless-G Routers and I'm sure a sales rep at Circuit City can help you find the one that meets your requirements and budget. Then(assuming that the Dell is a desktop and the Compaq is the laptop). You would connect one cable from your modem to your router. And another cable from your router to your Desktop. Then you can connect your laptop using its built in wireless card to the router. If have any questions or problems setting your network up you can always post another QUESTION. The only reason you would need a separate "antenna" (called a wireless card) is if you want your desktop to also use WiFi(wireless internet) and/or if your laptop doesn't have a built in wireless card.

Here is a list of Wireless-G Routers from Newegg.com(which is cheaper than Circuit City). I would recommend the Linksys brand of routers because they have worked for me and seem to be the industry standard. Also D-Link brand routers are good too.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&SubCategory=145&N=2052810145
The list is in order of price from lowest to highest.Ok Ironman, I messed up. I didn't specify that they are BOTH desktops!
Does that make a difference?

ok then you might have to buy a separate wireless card, Ok is the Compaq next to your modem? Or is the Dell next your modem? Then you only need to buy one wireless card because you can use a cable to connect the PC CLOSEST your modem and use the wireless card for the PC that is farthest away from your modem. Unless you want both computers to use wireless internet? so in addition to buying Wireless-G modem you would also have to buy a Wireless-G card(because I don't think your desktops have built in wireless cards).

Here are some Wireless-G compatible Wireless Cards for your PC(again the are listed from price low to high):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2052810031%201133510032&name=External%20Antenna

After you buy the router and the wireless card you will have to install the wireless card (which requires you to open-up your PC). Here are some links that show you how:
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/50064/how_to_install_a_wireless_card.html?cat=15
http://www.ehow.com/how_4455040_install-wireless-card-pc.html

If you have questions regarding installation we are here to help.

If you really feel uncomfortable with installing a card by yourself. You can always get a USB wireless adaptor and all you have to do is to insert it in a USB drive.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2052810031%201133510031&page=1&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True


Awesome! Thanks! Now I have one more question. My MODEM: It's a single port. Does that matter? Or is the wireless card going to pick up signal from modem?

Thank you!!Your modem will connect to Wireless Router, which should have more ports and at least one antenna. Your wireless card should connect to your router.Thank you! I'm on my way to Best Buy now!! Good Luck, post again if you have any more questions or problems. Well, I have it WORKING now. THANK YOU!!! But I was wondering what is the talk about firewalls and networking? Am I not supposed to have a firewall enabled with a network? And if so, what will that do to my security?
Also another question off-topic kinda: Online banking and security. Could you direct me to someone who could advise me on that? Or could you give me some pointers yourself? THANK YOU SO MUCH! You've been a great help! Quote from: shaly777 on June 08, 2009, 08:27:07 AM

Well, I have it working now. THANK YOU!!! But I was wondering what is the talk about firewalls and networking? Am I not supposed to have a firewall enabled with a network? And if so, what will that do to my security?

Also another question off-topic kinda: Online banking and security. Could you direct me to someone who could advise me on that? Or could you give me some pointers yourself? THANK YOU SO MUCH! You've been a great help!

hello, first off just wanna say that i am horrible with computers so i might not comprehend all the information that i am given right away. ALRIGHT so i bought this hp laptop today and when i tried to connect it to the internet through my wireless router, it says that there is a limited connectivity EVEN though the signal strength is "excellent" leaving me with no internet access with my laptop. Im not even SURE where to start trying to fix this problem. Thanks!

It just depends on what particular router you have, you should have some detailed instructions that came with it on how to properly CONFIGURE you're router when you purchased it or that was supplied to you via you're ISP, have you contacted your ISP about this?.

Out of no where my internet started disconnecting today, but if I restart or restore it works again. Then I noticed while watching stuff on line or playing a game(any game, offline games, on line games) it would freeze after about 5 min of playing or doing something and I would have to restart. I have spybot and a VIRUS scanner. Usually when I have had a virus my computer would be slow, but its not GOING slow, just freezes. I wasn't sure where to post this because I'm not sure if its my internet or what.

Windows XP
1025MB RAM
Memory 256.0MB
What kind of games are you playing/trying to play? Possibly your computer cannot handle them, and is freezing because of this. Since it also happens with offline games, most likely is not an issue with your internet.A relative wanted to play on the computer and it was just an online game for kids like, it didn't need to be DOWNLOADED or anything and after about 5 min everything would freeze, my whole computer. I was watching something online and then it froze after a COUPLE of minutes (everything froze). So then I wanted to see if The Sims 2 would work, it worked yesterday fine and every other time fine, so when I tried that I played for about 5 minutes and then everything froze and it shut down. I have Spore too and I tried that online and offline because I think you can play it offline and it wouldn't even start up the screen was just blank and froze everything.

I haven't downloaded anything new or have done anything different. My internet was being weird too because sometimes it cuts out but I can usually just unplug and then plug it back and its fine, but today nothing would fix it unless I RESTARTED.

My wireless router FAILED and I got a new one. One of my desktops crashes every time I try to connect to the wireless network. (This has happened with at least two different routers, so the problem has to be in the computer and not the router).

Here is the screen I get when the crash occurs:

http://danhughes.net/misc/screen.jpg

I am then told I can reset the computer to an earlier time. I do so, and then I get this screen:

http://danhughes.net/misc/crash.htm

(I had to take three pictures to scroll the whole message).

Thoughts?

THANKS!

---DanThe official answer from M$..."IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL This Stop error, which can be caused by either software or hardware, indicates that a kernel-mode process or driver attempted to ACCESS a memory location it did not have permission to access or a memory location that exists at a kernel interrupt request level (IRQL) that was too high. "

For your BSOD it looks like it's driver for the network card (vnet581x.sys).

I'm not sure of the second one

Alan <><

Concur it's a driver issue. Try getting the latest drivers from the manufacturer's website.Well, the problem was the Linksys USB Network Adapter (the "receiver" for the wireless signal). I replaced it with a similar Belkin adapter and now all is well.Thanks for keeping US in the loop.

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on June 18, 2009, 10:01:12 AM

Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Alan <><

we now have a new carrier verizon and have wireless as well anyways my question is on wireless tower my internet light flashes fast i know it does this when internet is ACTIVE but should it when internet is not being used. 2 also ( lan coax ) light is flashing as well should this be normal .There could be all KINDS of reasons for network ACTIVITY (if indeed that's what a flashing light signifies). The computer could be downloading updates, for example. Windows computers by DEFAULT are very "chatty", periodically shouting out to see if there are any other devices on the network. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have other reasons to suppose there's a problem.ok thank you rob,

I currently PURCHASED a wireless router and I would like to know what I can do to stop NEIGHBOURS or other people in my neighborhood from stealing my internet. I know I can set up a password, but being a novice, I am not too FAMILIAR on how to do that.

My OS is WINDOWS vista and I purchased a netgear rangemax wireless routerWhat model router did you just buy? Rangemax WPN824Please refer to the guide here...

http://kbserver.netgear.com/pdf/wpn824_setup_guide.pdf

What exactly does that mean? It came up while using my mom's computer while on a game site. The site www.addictinggames.comIt may have been generated by her internet security suite. Any idea what she USES?yes, the same thing I use. our computers are connected TOGETHER using Bellsouth is our ISP. ever since switching from Earthlink dialup to Bellsouth Dsl our computers are WIRED together with the modem and router. The modem and router are connected to my computer.

The message just came up again and I wrote it down in Notepad so that I could remember what it is so I can post it in here-
Adobe Flash Player Security
Adobe Flash Player has stopped a potentially unsafe operation.
The following local application on your computer network:
javascript:window.parent.get_ad_iframe_src('http:\\ad.doubleclick.net\adj\ag.no\st...
is trying to communicate with this Internet-enabled location:
ds.serving-sys.com
To LET this application communicate with the Internet, click Settings.
You must restart the application after changing your settings.

Then it has 2 buttons one is Ok and the other says Settings
Oh okay. The script is trying to retrieve an advert. You can safely ignore this message.It KEEPS coming up over and over again. How do we get it to stop coming up though? Use Firefox + AdBlock Plus?

I am working on an automation for some systems in which I have to interact with an embedded web server device to pass changes to it on a regular basis as part of our security to keep changing configuration to keep people out through a continually changing dynamic configured system.

I was wondering if there was a way to capture packet traffic to allow for it to get to the destination LIKE a tap "on our local network only" and then be able to add the stream of captured packets with commands contained WITHIN to sort of play back in an automated system.

I know about networking, but am not a specialist down to the packet level to understand if it can even be done or not. Our network is a basic TCP/IP network btw.

I was just thinking the other day how easy it would be if I could start a tap to record packets, send the command across to the embedded systems, and then stop the tap and then be able to trigger that packet stream back over the network and when broadcasted have it do exactly what it did minutes ago or hours ago.

A LONG time ago I was able to do this over a serial network, but there is a big difference between serial communications and TCP/IP.

** Hoping this is ok to be asked since it is for a safe use to make my life easier, I also see where if the wrong people used such a technology for malicious intent it could be a huge problem.**

Maybe I should just designate a system that is secure and use macros, but it would be so much neater if I could pass recorded packets, broadcast packets from before over again to have the same change go across to the embedded hardware devices.Sorry, I don't even understand the question this time Dave!Hey sorry to be confusing...Maybe this is more to the point without my rambling...

Pretty much want to capture exact copies of packets on network to reinject the packets onto the network if possible.

Sort of like recording the traffic and playing it back (rebroadcasting) it over my network to see if it will automate via tcp/ip

Google Search shows nothing, so I figured I would ask here... I am not even sure if it can be done or not.

Example being you send a command to a peice of equipment that turns the lights on... in theory you should be able to capture the packet traffic to create an exact copy of it and allow for it to still reach the destination to turn the light on.

At a later point you can run the play feature and broadcast those same packets over again, and the light should light at the Ethernet/Relay Outlet control since the commands to make it function are nested in the packets.

Hopefully this is more to the point as for I cant think of a simpler example. Thanks!

Can this be done? And if so is there any programs already existing that function this way?

I was thinking that maybe there was a Wireshark type of program that recorded packets and could play it back... but I havent found anything.

Okay, I see. I don't think this would be possible with TCP (maybe with UDP). The transmission protocol depends on a response from the other end for error correction, packet sequencing and so on. Because it is a two-way communication, (albeit asynchronous) unless you could mimic the transaction at both ends, it would be impossible to "play back" the conversation. Of course Wireshark can listen and even show you a complete log - but what you're looking for is something at the application layer, not at one of the lower layers. Like a kind of proxy server with a memory.

Anyway, in short, you need to look at automation at the application level, not at the network level.Thanks Rob!

That probably explains why there is nothing to be found in google searches.

I can create automated routines at the application level and will just stick to that. Only drawback to it is that to function it requires a dedicated desktop where shortcut positions dont change etc so I was thinking that if I could mimic the packets all over again maybe I could avoid a dedicated desktop to the automation whereas the macro triggers and the mouse pointer moves to x,y positions and it runs a recorded process.

** Further thought is that maybe I can put this macro into a virtual machine I have and have it minimized. This way the normal system can still be used without fear of SCREWING up the envoronment for macros, and the virtual machine minimized can play it out in a static desktop without the fear of changing anything that will break the automation process by an x,y position change in its execution to enter information or double-click on shortcuts etc.

Thanks again! An automation system that depends on mouse pointer replay? Sounds problematic! But if that's what you're doing, have you tried AutoIT?Hey neat... its been around since 1999 and I havent heard of it before. I will give that a TRY. I have been using Jitbit Macro Recorder that I had to pay for located here, which has been pretty good, but sometimes it loses position with the mouse portion of the macro where instead of point and clicking a specific location to access the data it is off by a half inch and causes the rest of the chain of events to fail as a result of that malfunction. http://www.jitbit.com/macrorecorder.aspx

Nice feature of it is the ability to compile the macros to exe's for stand alone use on multiple systems. But it can act up at times so I will have to check into the AutoIT which claims to be more stable.

Thanks for pointing that free program out Rob!Pleasure.

Ok so here's the deal. I have a Mac Pro, a Macbook, and an Air Port. I want to access the files on my Macbook with my Mac Pro through the WIRELESS network. However, every time I click on the Macbook in ORDER to connect to it it it SAYS Connection Failed. Both computers are RUNNING on 10.5.7, both computers have file sharing turned on and the privileges set to read and write. I can connect to the Mac Pro with the Macbook but not the other way around for some reason.

Any suggestions?Is there a firewall setting that needs to have an exception?Woot... that solved the problem. Now if only the apple support people had made that SIMPLE suggestion.

Did you run hard drive diagnostic?I will not be where that computer is until around 9:00EST. I will run tests when I get there. Reinstalling XP is just something that I have been thinking about doing for awhile now as a means of getting rid of all those fragments of AOL, NetZero, wal mart online software, etc. that was installed while the cpu was not in my possession.First, your hard drive has to check out. Then you'll worry about other things.Okay I am here now and working on this. Trouble is I do not know what KIND of hard drive I have. I am trying to figure it out without opening it up. I made a HiJack This log before everything stopped working. Is there any info in that log that pertains to the type of hard drive that I have?I cracked it open. I have a Samsung hard drive. Downloaded CD-Rom, because I don't have a FLOPPY drive. Downloaded ImgBurn. When I go to advanced to make the disc bootable I get some other options(boot image, developer ID, load segment, and sectors to load) do I need to do anything to these options or just leave them alone? Also, this will work using a dvd right? I believe I am out of blank cd-r's. Sorry if I am being a hassle.Leave all settings alone.
I've NEVER used DVD, but it should work, I think.Thank you for your help so far. I have made the DVD and it is running. What info am I looking for? If it'll find errors, it'll tell you.I get Add a new hard disk, install existing hard disk, maintenance options(-->create an ontrack boot diskette, update mbr boot code, backup or restore mbr), utilities(-->copy a partition, set hard drive size, zero fill drive(full),zero fill drive(quick)), Hard Disk Information(-->display technical hard drive information, view hard drive jumper settings)
I chose hard disk information and then selected my drive. I was given the following:

IDE Information
Size
LBA Sectors 312581808(160.04 GB) CHS 16383 X 16 X 63 (8.46GB)
DMA
MW DMA SUPPORT 0,1,2 MW DMA Active
MW DMA CYCLE TIME 120 ns Min. Cycle/Word 120 ns
UltraDMA Support 0,1,2,3,4,5,6 UltraDMA ACtive 5

Misc.
Firmware Rev. TM100-2
S.M.A.R.T. Support Enabled
ATA-# Supported 7,6,5,4,3,2 IORDY Support YES
R/W Multiple YES Sectors/Block 16
PIO Mode Support 3,4 PIO Cycle Time 120ns


Translation Information
MBR Partition Table
Type Bootable Begin CHS End CHS Size
B true 0 1 1 842 239 63 6.53 GB
7 false 843 0 1 20671 239 63 153.51 GB
0 false 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 false 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Translation
CHS Values BIOS XBIOS Logical XBIOS Physical
Cylinders 20673 19457 16383
Heads 240 255 16
Sectors/Track 63 63 63

Everything look okay? Also, I noticed that when I changed the boot order there was not anything in position 1, hard disk was in position 2, cd rom was in position 3, and nothing was in position 4. Is it normal for the first SLOT to not be used? I appreciate any help you can give me on the next STEPS to take. Thanks
I'm little bit confused.
Was any test ran?There wasn't a test option in that program. I downloaded another program that has a testing option and it is running now. I passed all of the initial tests, but now that I am running the full scan I am getting a lot of Ecc and media errors in C:4544Numerous ECC and Media errors were found in the full scan. Is there any way to correct these or is it a lost cause?I'm not sure. Which Samsung test are you using?
Can you post exact error(s)?

Hi, I have a network of pcs and printers, nas box and media server all hard wired. It is a mixture of win xp and one win7 pcs. The network works very well except for having to sometimes reset permissions on the win7 pc. I have 1 pc and 2 laptops that also connect wirelessly to the network. I have a linksys wrt54gl router and a tp link 8 port switch. My home has brick walls and Ive fitted 7dbi antennas to the linksys router, but the wireless performance is still patchy.

Now to finally get to the point, what I am trying to do is to hardwire a spare dlink d300 router in another room more central to the normal laptop & wireless pc location. I want to disable wireless in the linksys and broadcast wireless from the dlink. I have done some reading on the net, and cant get the dam thing WORKING. What I have tried:

Hook up the dlink by lan cable to a spare laptop

Enter dlink config, and turned off UPNP and DHCP

After saving that I enter an unused IP address within my network range. This is where the problems start, because the IP address doesnt want to stick and if I do a ipconfig it shows no ip. I have to reset the router back to default IP to access it. Pinging the IP address I set fails.

Any help would be great
Thank you, and sorry to be so long winded Why not use a wireless access point? This is what they're made for.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=wireless+access+point&x=0&y=0


Alan <>Quote from: ale52 on September 05, 2010, 07:18:03 AM

Why not use a wireless access point? This is what they're made for.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=wireless+access+point&x=0&y=0


Alan <><

Hi;

Having done some DECORATING I have re-routed some telephone extensions, one into my new kitchen and the other into my new computer room. The problem I now have is that the phone does not Ring Ring it just RIIIIIINNNNNNGGGGGGGSSSSS constantly and is very ANNOYING!!

I have a BT Master Socket (Looks quite old) with a blue capacitor and TWO wires in Blue and Orange connected to A & B terminals with a spare Green wire that is not connected, there is a spare connector marked E (This has never been connected).

I have two extensions which are hard wired into the spare terminal blocks of the master socket one to the kitchen which goes into a standard slave socket connected from and to terminal 2 and 5 and the other which goes to the computer room but this is wired into a (I think mercury) Phone / ADSL socket, again connected from and to terminal 2 and 5 on the master socket.

The phone in the kitchen is connected via an ADSL Filter.

When a phone is connected to the master socket it Ring Rings OK and when the Phone / ASDL socket is disconnect the kitchen phone Ring Rings OK but when the Phone / ADSL socket is connect both the kitchen and the phone in the computer room RIIIINNNGGGG constantly.

There are no other extensions on the line.

I have tried connecting the Orange / White Ring Circuit wires for both extensions but no joy.

Any help would be gratefully received.British telephone sockets

I'm TRYING to setup up my PC to Wake on LAN and Wake-on-Internet. I have an ASUS P5E-Deluxe motherboard, which supports wake on PCI-E. It also has an integrated PCI-E network interface card.

I enabled wake on PCI-E in BIOS, and set the NIC's device properties to never power down, to allow waking the computer, and to wake on Magic Packet.

The ISSUE is, I'm behind a router. Normally, it would be as simple as forwarding port 9 to the static internal IP I have my PC set to, but since an IP isn't ASSIGNED to the computer until its booted, (even though it is still connected to the router) forwarding port 9 to the static Internal IP wouldn't do anything.

So, I thought I'd try forwarding port 9 to the broadcast address, and seeing if that would work (Since the computer is still connected to the computer and connected to the subnet, even if it doesn't have an assigned IP). Unfortuneatley, my Netgear WNR100v2 router doesn't allow this.

So, I need another way of turning on my PC from the internet. Everything in BIOS is configured correctly, I just do not know how to deliver the Magic Packet to my computer.

Thanks for reading, I would sincerely appreciate any help you could offer.

Diatech

(P.S. - Networking isn't one of my strong points, so please be PATIENT with me! )

I have been trying to activate the bluetooth capabilities of my Dell Inspiron 1545 laptop for several days now. No matter what I do I keep coming up with the same problem, which is that I cannot get a bluetooth icon in my system tray in order to turn it on. After much searching I found some info on the web which I thought might help. Basically, I downloaded the wireless bluetooth 365 module with the drivers from the Dell website. When trying to install these drivers, a window pops up telling me to switch on my bluetooth antenna. The Inspiron 1545 does not have an actual "switch", but pressing F2 will turn the wireless antenna on/off. I have SWITCHED this antenna on and off to no avail. The info I found said to just click cancel on this screen and go to a FOLDER called Widcomm, which was installed from the file which contained the drivers. This folder has an application called BTTray, which is supposed to give me a bluetooth icon in the system tray. This does not appear however. Here is the site on which I found this info: http://en.kioskea.net/forum/affich-45863-bluetooth-not-working-in-dell-inspiron-1525. Note that the info on that site is in regards to an Inspiron 1425, but I made SURE to download the correct drivers for my Inspiron 1545 system with Windows 7 64 bit. Apparently I need to have the bluetooth icon appear in the system tray in order to activate it and finish the driver installation, but that does not happen. I have checked Task Manager and BTTray is listed as an ACTIVE process, yet it still does not appear. I have even checked my BIOS settings and bluetooth is enabled there as well. I am really about to lose my mind over this issue. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Here is my system info:

Dell Inspiron 1545 laptop
Windows 7 64 bit

If any more info is needed, please just ask. I really would appreciate the help. THANKS in advance.

I have a DELL laptop with wireless capability and when I click on the thing for the available wireless connections they ALWAYS say " always connect" the check BOX is checked, I should say how do I get this to not always have the check in the check box that says "always connect"
I have a win 7 64 bit system inspiron laptop, the availble networks are secured or in other words they belong to others who have password protected and have ssid key they ask for. Did you try unchecking that box? And it will ask you for a key and SIDD. This is how mine looks



And I have no idea what the problem is. You can just uncheck the box.I do uncheck the box it comes back automaticly later when I check to see if it is still unchecked and if I click on the connect then it will ask for the ssid. This is someone elses wireless CONNECTION that shows up, are they able to connect to my computer?

Hi

I'm WORKING on a Toshiba Laptop with Vista. It connects to local network only--not the internet. Both the wireless and ethernet adapters appear fine and all the network settings appear fine. It sees the wireless AP and connects, but I cannot ping the router. Ipconfig brings only the 169. ... default address so there's no DNS server. It seems strage that both the wireless and ethernet adapters would go down at the same time ... do they use the same bus? Any thoughts?

I want to try CONNECTING 2- PCS together to transfer files,upgrade drivers & other sources to an older quest PC 97' Dell dimension L400c/ Windows 98SE from a newer host Pc 06' Acer ASPIRE ast180/WindowsVista Home Basic ! Can these to be compatible to function as to working together as 1 ? What be the best method on how to CONNECT these 2 different performing Pc's as to function well together ? cross-over cable, Usb to Usb ,or any other better methods ? I have found that trying to transfer by the Acer/ USB flash drives will not work when plugged within the older 97' Dell Pc & that is another problem in its SELF !

On one office it has more than 10 computers, they share one FOLDER .all COMPUTER works properly until this WEEK , but now sometimes when I want to open that share folder it comes massage it says “you MIGHT not have permition to use this network resource .
No more connection ca be made to this remote computer at this time because there are already as many connections as the computer can accept .

This massage appears on different computer

thank's Please do not post the same question more than once. I'm DELETING the other post.
I know i'm being pedantic, but it's more of a statement than a question.

This is my problem.
Situation 1:
Computer upstairs connected to router via ethernet and TV downstairs connected to same router via ethernet works fine
Situation 2:
Computer upstairs connected to router via ethernet. Then from that router a ethernet cable goes downstairs which plugs into another router. Then the TV downstairs and computer downstairs plug into this router.

Now in situation 2 my internet keeps dropping, I can get it to work fine again by taking out the cable that comes up from downstairs but how can I get it all to work fine.

My router upstairs is connected to the internet and I have a long Ethernet cable from that GOING downstairs which use to plug directly into my tv but now I have a new computer downstairs as well so that one cable cannot connect both TV and computer so I plug that into a router and then from there connect to these extra devices. Try following the steps here for setting up two routers in a home environment:
http://www.devhardware.com/c/a/Networking-Hardware/How-to-Connect-Two-Routers-on-the-Same-Network/

Those instructions are for two Lynksys routers, but in THEORY it will apply to most routers. Your routers don't even have to be the same brand/model.First question, why do you have two routers?Quote from: rthompson80819 on October 16, 2010, 08:46:33 PM

First question, why do you have two routers?

First question, why do you have two routers?

Thanks for your advice quaxo that link was very helpful and I now have have 'em both running smoothly.

I have a gaming server which will randomly be attacked by LARGE botnets, I have logs of the ips that i believe are from the ATTACKS. Is there anything I can do to stop them? Report it to somebody. My host wont do anythingthe best thing i would say to do is have the server run off a ip changer, or try upping the security so whoever is doing it can't detect the ip to preform the ddos; but unless you find a way to hide the ip or up your security then i would say.. you will be ddos'd but if i MIGHT ask, what kind of server is it? i might be able to help further if i know.I would suggest ADDING a firebox watchdog firewall to your server.

Hey guys, I have a HP Pavilion DV5-1000nr laptop that the left HINGE became very loose CAUSING the display to flicker white. I decided to be proactive and disassemble the machine and repair the loose hinge screws. Now that I have reassembled it I am having trouble connecting to my wireless INTERNET. I have always had a very strong signal, but now it is minimal, and requires me to trouble shoot the connection, which says it repairs it, but it is very weak still.
If I have the antennea wires inside touching things could this be the problem? Or is there something I may check?After discussing the install with a co-worker, I realize I never plugged the two antennea leads back in to their plugs. DUH!! Captain Obvious At least you GOT it SORTED out.

Just got my first wireless router and have managed, with some troubleshooting, to attach three laptops to it's secured network. Two laptops remain, and in this post I am requesting assistance with the Mac.
Home Internet: Verizon (provider), DSL (best speed: 100 Mbps), modem - Westell 6100 Series
Router: NETGEAR Wireless-N 150, WNR1000v2, best speed: 150 Mbps (only gotten 50 Mbps so far...)
(Other computers: Established a secure network over the Windows OS 7 laptop. However, it used Wi-Fi Protected Access (WPA/WPA2) not supported by the older computers, so the assistant from Netgear had me change to WEP instead, then the second computer (Windows OS Vista) worked. The assistant helped me manually configure the third computer, Windows OS XP.)
The Mac: Mac OS X, Version 10.4.8, PROCESSOR: 500 MHz PowerPC G4, Memory: 1 GB SDRAM
I've never used the internet over a Mac before, so I am unfamiliar with the ENTIRE internet / network section of the System Preferences. (The computer keeps talking about a PPPoE server, don't know what that is. The computer lists both Firewire and AirPort as being on the Mac, but I cannot seem to use the Firewire preferences. What is AirPort?) I've never used the DSL ETHERNET wire connection to this computer, but it has a port so it must have an Ethernet card. (Does Mac have a Device Manager?)
Since it's a Mac, and it's an older computer, I thought that this question was specific enough to be worthy of posting.
Thank you for your assistance.

my Internet Service Provider prevent a lot of sites like Facebook

Why would any ISP block facebook? Have you talked to your ISP?

I think there is some thing else going on here.

I think there is some thing else going on here.

I've never heard of any ISP blocking anything, unless you live in China.

My DAUGHTER is unable to sign on to the internet under guest, but works fine under OWNER. It was WORKING fine earlier. Thanks for any help.go to the START MENU and click on Connect to and select the network whilst you are on the guest profile.

My company gave employees their OLD COMPUTERS which were NETWORKED in the company and had access to the web. I hear that if you connect the old computers to the internet at home the company can still track you. Is this possible?YES and no it depens what software is on it and if it was SET up to be tracked

using wireless CONNECTION with xp service PACK 3, the network log shows error 12007: no connection to http,https or ftp. winsock base reset needed.
How do I reset winsock base and where is it?TRIED ms fixit resetting tcp/ip and that did fixit.
thankyou

I have a computer that is a friends, she has herself and her husband as users in windows...

If you pick her name, it will not connect to any websites,, if you pick the husbands it will act normal..

I just got a flash driver to download all MALAWARE, spyware and free antivirus programs to put on it and see if it fixes the issue,

What my question is has any one EVER had this issue?


Thanks,

crann01We need more information to make an educated response.SS, It is a HP pavilion, OS is Windows xp,

His name you can go to websites, and get online , no problem,

Hers will not go online, it says there is a connection, i am using the ethernet CABLE from my router.. but will not surf the web,,
So I am figuring that one of the game sites has messed with the settings,,

My puter i can do whatever i want online,
She has a huge AMOUNT of games and online casinos downloaded,

There is no anti virus or malware or spy ware program on it, so i am using mine to download them on a flash drive to try to fix the connection issues....

worse comes to worse i can delete all of her items, and let her use the husbands name,,


I have never seen where one user can get online and the other cant..
There could indeed be a virus or malware involved, personally I would have thought that it would affect both profiles. I guess anything is possible though. If you want to verify it go HERE and follow the directions and post the logs in THAT forum.FYI,

I ran the scans, for anti virus, malaware ect,,

then i copied husbands connection SETTING and made hers the same..

Now we have internet connections with both users..

Thank You,

crann01I'm glad to hear that you got it all sorted out.

I was thinking about buying a set of HomePlug Ethernet Adapters in the future, to see if I can get a wired internet connection down in our basement. The modem and router are in the home's library, and I was hoping I could buy these to get the signal to go through the power lines. I have gone online and seen how many different brands of these adapters exist. Now, the issue is with whether this will work in our home or not. The house was built in 1993. Do you think that I'll be able to use these if I have one adapter in the library connected to the router, and the other one in the basement connected to the ethernet switch? These adapters need to be connected directly to a wall outlet or an extension cord to work. Power strips are not an option here. I'd have to buy at least two more ethernet cables along with these to carry this out. If I purchase any such adapters, I'll likely get those that have a max speed of 85kbps or higher.Quote from: Ryan on September 19, 2010, 08:55:48 AM

...If I purchase any such adapters, I'll likely get those that have a max speed of 85kbps or higher.

An electrician drilling through a wall and a cat 5 cable are one of your best options, although depending on the electrician it could be expensive.

For the price of some of the power line adapters, you might look at a wireless router. It would take a wireless adapter for each of your computers if they don't already have them and could be a more expensive route, but it would have better expandability.

If you decide to drill through the floor yourself, DO NOT drill a hole through carpet of any kind! An electric drill can suck up a strand of fiber from the hole to across the room in the blink of an eye and ruin the carpet. If the floor is carpeted, pull the carpet back to drill the hole.

If you were thinking that a power line adapter would get you faster speeds than your wireless router, it won't work. Your internet speed is limited by to what ever speed you get from your ISP.

BTW, CC said cat 5 cables are limited to 100 meters, not 100 feet.

The sequence of events:

At home, I boot up Laptop A (Windows 7 Home Premium), enter Windows, go to Speedtest.net. My download SPEED reaches about .75 mb/sec, my UPLOAD speed about 3.5 mb/sec. (Yes, upload speed = 5x download speed.)

I boot up Laptop B (Vista Home Premium) and let it reach the Windows logon screen.

I run Speedtest.net on Laptop A again. Now its download speed = about 15 mb/sec. Upload speed remains about 3.5 mb/sec.

This problem seems not to occur on any other network.

Any idea what's going on and how I can fix it so that Laptop A reaches top speed w/o help from Laptop B?

Thanks.It would seem you are using Laptop B as a bridge.

Have a look in control PANEL , Network, check the properties of your network make sure if there is a checkbox saying let Allow other USERS to CONNECT through this internet connection is unchecked.

If this doesnt work let me know.

My wireless internet says that i am connected buy every TIME I try to BROWSE the internet its says that I am offline or Im not connected.. How do i fix this? Is it something wrong with my computer or whatHas it ALWAYS been that way? Did it ever work RIGHT?
Have you kept you OS up to DATE?
Have you trued thus command at the command line?
Code: [Select]C:\>ipconfig /renew
This will fix it if the system has used then wrong IP.

Hello,

I'm REALLY getting frustrated with my router and I don't want to have to resort to buying a new one when I think that the problem can be SOLVED with some adjustments. My problem is that my router is not giving me the option to CHANGE it when I log into 192.168.1.1. I have a Linksys WIRELESS G WRT54G2 V1 router. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
MarioOk TRY this

log into 192.168.1.1
go to Basic Wireless Settings


■Select wireless configuration to Manual .
■Give a Wireless Network Name (SSID), make sure its unique.
■Select Wireless SSID Broadcast to Enable
■Save Settings and you wil back at the same page with changes you made

Hi,

Data/File SERVER contains Microsoft Windows 2003 OPERATING System which is ALSO connected with ISCSI Network Storage (SAN) contains a share folders. When i restart the data/file server, the shared folders in storage GETS unshared.

Need your help immediately.

Thanks in ADVANCE.

How do I KNOW my INTERNET CONNECTION type, DYNAMIC (DHCP),Static IP Connection, or PPPoE.?What OS are you USING? Are you using DSL, dial-up or cable?Call your ISP and ask them.

I know IP address & domain name of remote computer, How can I access remote computer from my home laptop?you NEED a tunnel i GUESS or something LIKE putty gen you can download it for freeyou need a tunnel i guess or something like putty gen you can download it for free

Will you just elaborate what you want to say..In Details...Please..Thank you for your prompt response..
Meaning..tunnel & puttyAnyone there to help me with this severe problem...pls..n thank uWhy do you want to "access" this remote computer?
Quote from: ridhwan on September 14, 2010, 01:10:08 AM

I know IP address & domain name of remote computer, How can I access remote computer from my home laptop?