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I have Virgin 50mb broadband, so that can't be the problem.

My family has FOREIGN students. We live in England. There is one from Turkey, one from Thailand and one from Columbia. They all use the wireless internet on their laptops. I use it on mine, and my mum uses it on the computer. When I'm on it, and my mum is on, it is fine. We can do whatever we want (I play Xbox LIVE connected through my laptop to the internet most of the time) and it won't lag. At all.

The SECOND one of our students logs on, it slows down tremendously. Even if my mum goes off the internet, and I do the smallest of things, it is horribly laggy. If I try to play Xbox, I get booted out within 3 seconds because of my connection (and this is coming from someone who is ALWAYS picked as host by the game because of his good connection). It must be something to do with my students, but what?

They are not downloading torrents, or OPENING up 100000 videos at the same time. If all three go on at the same time, the internet gets so slow it is impossible to use. Not just my Xbox, but I cannot even do a Google search, while they can do whatever they like with no problems.

I really do need help. They have to be allowed inernet access, and I need it for schoolwork (I really need to research for my GCSEs).is it possible their laptops are infected with worms or malware? That would be my first guess.It was my first guess too. They all have their own ANTIVIRUS, and I ran MBAM on all of them. Nothing found.A good wireless router will allow equal sharing of bandwidth. What router are you using?
D-Link DIR-615

I don't understand why my router does this, it's REALLY annoying and it just never STOPS...

I have a BELKIN router, usually when I try to connect to it it won't give off a signal. When I scan for internet signals, mine doesn't show up.

It's a real pain to have to unplug and replug in the router so MANY TIMES a day, why won't it just give a signal and STAY giving a signal?

I use a Linksys Wireless B WUSB network adapter that hooks up via USB to find unsecured wireless NETWORKS for my internet connection.I know this Linksys is outdated & its not working like it used to.
I also sometimes use a wireless g PCMCIA wireless card too.
Well neither of these are working very well for me.
Can SOMEONE suggest SOMETHING that will find & allow me to connect to unsecured networks? Why don't you GET a connection for yourself? This way you don't have to go around trying to rip off people of thier bandwidth

dear sirs
I am confused, I am looking for a reliable wifi hotspot security APP that will keep the packet sniffers at bay,
I heard that hotspot shield was not that good, is there any software apps that can protect me at hotspots that is good ?you need a firewall and to use encryption

I use a firewall but what program can I use for encryption?Depends on what kind of encryption your looking for. The encryption provided by wireless routers for connectivity (WPA2 recommended) will make it so any packets of yours sniffed over the waves are unreadable. Provided you are using a good password. However, this won't stop a man-in-the-middle attack if someone has already compromised the network. For that you'd need something like SSH or a VPN to encrypt the DATA in the transport PROCESS. But, if the MiTM knows what he's doing that won't make a difference either.can you recommend a good vpn software that I can use at hotspot areas?I've always USED SSH and Hamachi. But since Hamachi got bought out my LogMeIn the free version isn't what it used to be.

I'd suggest seeing if your home router is capable of doing some sort of VPN (IPSec, PPTP, or the like) and using that.mainly what I am looking for is something to use at hotspots that is secure that is what I need.Most hotspots that use a password and login are having you connect using a low level encryption. If you can just logon without them giving you a login then that would be a unsecurted connection....most of the time.

What are you trying to do? What are you trying to protcet yourself from?

packet sniffers and such

i want to KNOW how to CONNECT two laptop or COMPUTER using wireless connectivity and also using wired connection in win 7 A QUESTION. Do you have a wireless access POINT that you are connecting all the devices to? Or, are you trying to connect all the devices together without an access point? Here are a few places for info:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Networking-home-computers-running-different-versions-of-Windows

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/networking/setup/default.mspx

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/networking/setup/wired.mspx

Hope this helps you and gets you started.

Hi,
A friends pc has a web CONNECTION problem.......
I have tried to do a test and REPAIR but get if I try to get email
and DNS error for the web

thanks for any help
Ned

ps. pc running vista

Open Device Manager and see if there are any red X's or yellow flags next to your network adapter. Next, open a command prompt, Windows Key + R, type cmd and then type the following without the quotes and paste all the results back here, "ipconfig /all". Also CHECK, open IE, click Tools, Internet Options, Connection Tab and then the LAN Tab and in the WINDOW that opens make sure

Please sombodey help! Ive GOR a wireless internet connections ADSL+2 data speed 600KP @ 1.73secs
Line speed is: 2.82Mbps
download speed is: 352KB/s
My probles is that when i open and explorer PAGE it takes 6-9 seconds for the page to open up. COULD it be my computer.
1.5GB ram
Pen4 processor
windows vista.
Ive tried everything and my internet provider says it very fast-but it takes 6-9 seconds to respond?
Close IE.
Go Start>All Programs>Accessories>System Tools, and click on Internet Explorer (no add-ons). Same thing?Have you tried clearing all cookies CACHE ETC?
Install firefox that is generally better in a certain ways than IE

Do a ping test on www.google.co.uk see what the refresh rates are.
Hi
Thank you for respomding to me.
Ive done the pingtest and it is: Ping- 44ms
Jutter- 4ms

It says that my ive got a very good internet connection but still it takes 6 seconds to respond at a time.
Ive cleatred all my cookies and have downloaded firefox to sere if it will be faster.

Ill get back too you-
Thanks
Dave

hello everyone.

got something i need "expert" help with. i work in a type in lounge for a resdential place. we offer wifi internet in our lounge for the residents who live here. the problem is every now and then people will get kicked off the internet. They will be using it and then the next minute their computer will say trying to connect to the wifi but never does. although some other ppl whos still on the wifi are using it just fine. we fix the problem by reseting (unpluging the modem & router). Only problem is we find ourselves resetting it every 10 mins or so bc someone comes up with the problem.

now from my little knowledge with this, i am guessing its bc the router is giving some people the same ip address? so by resetting(unpluging) when the router comes back up it gives everyone new ip's?? thats just an uneducated guess. ANYONE know whats going on or how i can fix this?Even TRAINED field technicians know the way to fix it is to throw it in the refuse can. Top quality modem/routers run for weeks with no need to reset.
Of course, the router/modem would be in a place where there is air circulation and a max temperature of about 86 F or 30 C, there are sensitive to overheating.
Ask your provider for a better grade of modem and router combination. Models made by Two-Wire are popular and generally very RELIABLE. There are many other good brands out there.
If new HARDWARE does not fix the problem, look for another service provider. You and not in the Telecoms business, they are. You don't have to put up with inferior service.

Hi guys,

Please bare with me, I'm pretty computer illiterate. I have a Dell desktop my job gave me to set up at home (Windows XP). I can't get it to read my wireless network. I'm USING my laptop on the wireless right now, so I know I doubt it's my router. On the desktop, it lets me connect but gives me the message "Network Cable Unplugged" and will not allow me online. I've googled a few phrases and tried a few different things on forums I found, but I haven't been able to get it to work. I tried different combinations of enabling/disabling the LAN connections and restarting my computer and the router.

My available "Lan or High-Speed Internet" choices under my Network Connections are:
Local Area Connection 2
Cisco Systems VPN Adapter
Local Area Connection
Intel(R) Pro/100 VE Network

I saw on a few different sites where people were telling others to look for "Wireless Connection" choices, but I only have "Lan or High-Speed Internet" connection choices in my Network Connections... is that different?

Any other SUGGESTIONS?

Thanks in advance!You need to tell us if the desktop computer has a wireless connection. The model number of the computer would be a big help. Many desktop computers do not have a built-in wireless. If so, you have to buy on e. The USB 802.11 type work good in most home networks.

In most of the USA you can get a Wireless adapter even from a department store.
Wireless at Wallmart.
Can you RUN a ethernet cable from the desktop to the router? That would be the simplest and CHEAPEST solution, but it's not always practical. If not there are wireless USB ethernet adapters that would be easy to set up.

Since the PC came from work, the odds are that it was on a wired network and does not have a wireless connection built in.Quote

Local Area Connection 2
Cisco Systems VPN Adapter

Hello,

I am having PROBLEMS connecting my local drives through a RDP session over the internet.

I have change the settings to allow the drives to be SHARED on the RDP session and it doesnt push is through.

Is there something i need to change on the server to allow this to happen?

specs:

my comp = win7
server = server 03

THanks in advance!This information is very old.

Article ID: 313292 - Last Review: January 15, 2006 - Revision: 7.5
How to gain ACCESS to local files in a remote desktop session to a Windows XP-based or to a Windows Server 2003-based host computer

Windows 7 has a high level of security.
I don't think sharing a entire volume is a good idea.
Here is a you tube video. You decide if that is good for yh9ou.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aW4jor40Pw0
Personally, I don't recommend it. Ignore me ignore me if you like.

hello mates, my first post

this is a strange one to me. ive been using wireless on this laptop forever. Worked fine until i did one minor change:

The wireless was working fine until i decided to disable the adapter in my networks place and instantly renabled it 15 secs later. the onyl problem is now it does not read any wireless connections around me. adapter says its ENABLE and working fine. When i try to look for connection it says non found/not connected. When i go into my network place and try to make a new connection and do the wifi options when i finish making the connection it just pops up my wireless status and says NOT CONNECTED with a big X.

i am not sure what the problem is being i only disabled and renabled the wireless adapter. i did the same to the lan adapter and its still working fine.
i am also using windows 7.

any ideas?Hi Joe, and welcome to the forum.

Were you using WEP or WPA encryption? If so, I'm thinking you may need to re-enable your encryption setting and re-create your password/passphrase for your encryption.

Please clarify the difference between "wireless adapter" and "lan adapter".hello thnx for the reply,

actually i was using neither. it was an unsecured wifi. other computers in my house are still able to pull off the wifi expect for my laptop after i did that disable/renable thing.

well i just called it adapater due to where it was found. Network and internet > Network connections > Change adapter settings, here it shows bluetooth network connection (that i have disabled), Local are connection and wireless network connection.Is the wifi signal coming from a device in your house or from a neighbor? If from a device in your house, is it a wireless router, a combo modem/router, or what? Make and model? Was the device provided by your ISP?yes the device is in my house, it is a modem that was provided by the isp and then i bought and have been using a gaming wireless router for about 2 years. the router is DGL-4500. everyother computer can connect to the wifi but my laptop.

Check your wireless network card under device manager by expanding network adapters and right-click the wireless card/properties/general tab and on device usage, make sure 'Use this device(enable)' is set.it doesnt say device usage but it says: Device Status: This device is working properly.

edit: im somewhat familiar with computer stuff but not much wondering if this is right: on the general tab is says
Location: PCI bus 7, device 0, function 0
shouldnt device and/or fuction have 1?Try Control Panel > System icon > Hardware tab > click Device Manager > expand Network Adapters > right-click on the wireless network adapter.

Do you have an option in the box for Enable or Disable?

Enable, if it will let you.

Let us know what you find. says

update software
disable
uninstallOK, the device is functioning properly, and it's indicating that's it's enabled, because it's showing the option to disable. Do you have driver software for the wireless? (It's probably a built-in card.) Do you have the recovery disk which CAME with the laptop? If not, can you connect the laptop with an Ethernet cable to the Internet, and see if you can update the driver that way.
yes its a built in card, no i dont have the recovery disk, and yes when i try to update the driver while im online with a lan connection it does search for updates and then comes back with the results saying i have the most up to date verision of the driver.

any ideas why this problem started just by me disabling the wireless conn? i mean what will cause this to happen.I just thought of this, TODAY. I suggest you uninstall the device. (It's too bad you can't physically remove the hardware, but that's all right.) Uninstall the device under System, etc. in Control Panel. Turn off the computer. Restart the computer. It will find new hardware, and want to install the DRIVERS. (That's when you'll need the Ethernet access to the Internet.) When you look at the hardware, what "brand" of wireless card is installed?

I don't have an exact answer to why this happened. I think it's a "conflict" between the operating system and the driver software, even though the system says everything is working properly.wow mate it worked. haha ez fix idk why i never thought to reinstall the whole driver...

thnx for all the help aegis, and everyone else who helped Whew! Good -- 'cause I was out of ideas!

Glad to be able to help!

Welcome to the forum!

Last week I connected a unit that was part of another network which only has dial up as a means to get online. To the one that I currently, am at that uses DSL thing is that its able to CONNECT out to the network. However, when I open a browser an try an use a url it takes a good while to attempt to load the page at which point it never does.Did you connect the DSL line to the computer which only has dial-up?
If yes, where, exactly did you connect it to.I connected the PATCH cable to the nic. I dont have dial up where it is at know.Control Panel---Internet Options---Connections
Remove Dial-up setting
LAN settings---automatically detectI'll give that a try You can fix the Internet connectivity issues of your router in your wireless network; first, you can check the type of issue faced. Check for your router and the associated hardware. If you have issues with your power supply, you need to ensure PROPER supply of power. Check your Ethernet connectivity cables; if you have any issues with them, you could replace the cables. If you have issues with your Internet Service PROVIDER, you can contact them and get the problem fixed.

okay so i can download frostwire, bitlord, skype, and i can go onto websites likt tinychat, but when i try to download something from frostwire or bitlord it just sits there it wont download, and it says i hvae no connection to the server, and with skype and tinychat, well i can open skype but it says im offline and i cant do ANYTHING, and on tinychat i can go on the website and everything but i cant video chat. also iTunes will not connect to its server etc, but i can go on the internet, infact the only problem i have with the internet is google chrome and that just stopped working one day, its says like 315 error or something on every website. i can use youtube, playlistdotcom, and everything else, i dont get it. also, every other computer in the house works perfectly. i have a Dell Dimension 4600 running Window XP Pro 2004, if it matters, i also have a 1tb external drive and a Linksys wireless g usb network adapter with speedbooster.Quote

if it matters, i also have a 1tb external drive and a Linksys wireless g usb network adapter with speedbooster.

# Existence of several similar technologies with different branding and incompatible with each other causes massive consumer confusion.
# These technologies are marketed in such a way it is possible to see them as cheating and tricking consumers through technology branding.

Hi All,
I am looking for a walk though on setting up a bridge between 2 routers.

linksys g broadband router wrtu546-tm

and the WRT54G

Anyone know of a good set of instructions?

Thanks
You need to do a Google search.
Like this:
Google WRT54G bridge
Wait, Let me do that nor you...
http://tinyurl.com/62djz6q

Thanks.....yep I know how to use Google but I had hopes that someone knew of a good site that they could pass along to me.

I think they call that a recommendation.

Thanks anyway. I will check out google.

Here is some information about the setup I got from another tech form. Maybe it will help someone.


This howto is intended to help people who currently use a wireless router in their house, and also have additional PCs or devices without wifi cards which cannot be connected to the wireless router using a cable because they're too far from it (like in another room).

This howto will explain how to use the wrt54g a to connect these remote PCs to the internet and your home network, without using wifi cards. This is possible using 3rd party firmware (sveasoft) which allows the wrt54g to operate in "client" mode, where it forwards packets from its connected devices to the main wireless router, using a wireless link.

I got my wrt54g running in client mode - that is, it serves as a bridge between a PC attached to it and the main wireless router. Here's my complete setup, starting with the wired connections (markeded by "<===>"):

Room 1: Cable Modem <===> D-Link DI-624 Wireless Router <===> PC-1
Room 2: WRT54G <===> PC-2

The DI-624 and the WRT54G connect to each other wirelessly. I also have a mobile laptop which connects wirelessly to the DI-624.
So in this CASE, the WRT54G let me use PC-2 without having a wifi card in that PC. In fact, I could connect up to 4 PCs to the wrt54g, and save the price of 4 wifi-54g pci cards, plus I don't have to install drivers for wifi cards (a pain in Linux). The wrt54g acts like a "wireless ethernet bridge", which in fact is another product sold by linksys (WET54G) for around $150. This is also useful when you have devices (in a room which doesn't have ethernet connections) which can only connect using a ethernet cable, but cannot connect wirelessly - like XBOX !

So how do you do it ? Here's the list of steps - you should be doing these steps (except step 1) from a PC attached to the wrt54g (e.g. PC-2 in my setup). Physically attaching a PC to the wrt54g is required only for this initial set up phase, because we need to login and set up the various options. Note that this doesn't require any changes to your main router's configuration, so it's quite safe with regard to not messing up your current networks' setup.

1. Download the "wrt54g alchemy firmware" (google this, or go here) version 6rc5 from the internet (it is the only one compatible with the new models wrt54g V2.2 & wrt54gs V1.1).
2. Upload the firmware to the wrt54g via the "Administration->Firmware Upgrade" option in the router's web interface.
3. Reset the device (press reset button until power led flashes - this could take 20 seconds or more). In the following steps, leave all settings which are not mentioned in the description at their default (only change the ones specifically mentioned in the step).

Note: We will use addresses that end in 128-255 for the wrt54g router and it's attached PCs. To make sure there is no overlap in the addresses assigned by the two routers, we have to make sure that your main router only assign addresses below 128 to its own clients. For example, if your main router address is 192.168.0.1, its DHCP address range could be 192.168.0.50 - 192.168.0.120. Another important note regarding the main router: some routers allow you to disable the broadcast of the SSID, but for this setup to work properly the SSID broadcast MUST BE ENABLED (which is usually the default behavior).

4a. In "Setup::Basic setup" screen, set Internet Connection Type to "Auotomatic Configuration - DHCP".
4b. Set the local IP to 192.168.0.129, assuming your main router is 192.168.0.x (in general, if your main router is a.b.c.d set the wrt54g to a.b.c.129).
4c. Set the Subnet Mask to 255.255.255.128.
4d. Set the "Gateway" to the IP address of your main router (e.g. 192.168.0.1).
4e. Set the DHCP Server to Enabled, and starting IP Address to something above 129 (e.g. 140).
4f. Save the settings on this page. You should reboot the attached PC, since the subnet mask has changed. Note: from now on you have to use the new local IP you set in step 4b (e.g. http:// 192.168.0.129) to connect to the router from your PC.

5. In "Setup::Advanced Routing" screen, make sure operating mode is "Gateway".

6. In "Wireless::Basic Settings" screen, set Wireless mode to "Client", wireless network mode to "mixed", and SSID to your main wireless router's SSID.

7. In "Wireless::Security" screen, set yor WEP/WPA settings which match the main wireless router. You should now be connected to the main wireless router. Note: if you have MAC filtering set up on the main router (which allows only specific clients to connect), then obviously you have to add the client router to the list of allowed clients.
To verify that you've established a connection to the main router, you can check the "Status::Router" screen, which should show an IP Address assigned by the main router (which would end with a number below 128), and the "Status::Wireless" page should show the AP Signal strength together with the mac address of the main router. Also you should now be able to ping the main router and even log in to it (using h ttp://192.168.0.1) from the PC attached to the client router (the wrt54g).

8. In "Security::Firewall" screen, disable firewall protection, as this subnet is already behind your main router's firewall. Also make sure that "Block Anonymous Internet REQUESTS" is unchecked.

9. In "Administration::Management" screen, you can leave all settings at their default. You may want to enable remote management and Telnet or SSHD, especially if you want to be able to log in to the wrt54g from a computer which is not directly attached to it.

10. To enable PCs attached to the main router to be able connect to PCs attached to the wrt54g: Login into the wrt54g using telnel or ssh by running the command "telnet 192.168.0.129" and use same root/passwd as for the web interface. Then type this command (copy it exactly):

# echo 1 > /proc/sys/net/ipv4/conf/`route | grep default | awk '{print $NF}'`/proxy_arp

Now you should be able to ping/telnet to any PC attached to the wrt54g from any PC attached to the main router. Btw, this assumes that the subnet mask of the main router is the default 255.255.255.0.

Important note about the last step : The last step (which is an optional step) allows PCs attached to the main router to be able to connect to PCs attached to the client router, by specyfing the IP of the DESTINATION PC, for example "telnet 192.168.0.150". But they are still on two different subnets which do not share their broadcast messages, therefore when browsing PCs on the local network you will not automatically see the PCs attached to the other router. But you can always connect to them by explicitly specyfing the IP. Btw, this step was added after the initial posting of this HOWTO and solves a LOT of the issues people discussed later in this thread, so don't worry if you read posts in this thread about problems with communicating between PCs attached to different routers. Also note that this proxy_arp setting is not saved in the WRT54G non-volatile memory like all the other settings, so when the router is rebooted (like after a power outage), it will be cleared and you will need to repeat step 10 to set the proxy_arp back on.


Done !!! That's it !!!!

So in summary, you don't need two wrt54g routers, nor do you need WDS capable routers. A single wrt54g (with the right firmware) can operate as a "client" of any other wireless router, and create a bridge so any device connected to it will be able to access your network and the internet. The above works great for me, even with 3-4 PCs attached to the wrt54g (verified that it works).

Hello,
First of all, thank you very much for coming back and sharing with the forum what you have found.
Second, let me apologize for giving you a reply that may have been interpreted as a sarcasm.
Perhaps what I should have said is that there are many possible solutions to the problem you pose, and my personal experience is not adequate to give you a good recommendation.. The solution you offer is something I did not know about and I am glad you posted it here. I'm going to study it very carefully so next time somebody asks a question like that I can have a clear and concise response.Glad you found some value in the POST. I had not heard of this method to create a bridge. ie. flash the frimware

Geek-9pm.....no harm, no foul.

Have a great day!

I am still reading..
You have solved another problem.. Three problems
A. A Linux bistro that does not have wireless drives.
B. A Box that can not use wireless. (Xbox)
C. A 64 bit Windows that with no 64 bit drivers for a wireless device.

Some users here have gone crazy looking for a economical way to get wireless on 64 bit Windows 7. Now you have profited a cheap and piratical solution. The WRT54G is reliable and can be found on auction sites for under $100
Quote

52 results found for Under $99.00

Hey everyone,

i got a problem trying to set up my network at home. i used to have JUST a wired network at home and it worked fine. the isp line came in and went into the hard wired router then straight into 2 computers , however i now RUN two servers and recently got a wifi router to connect them and some wifi devices to the internet and share files on the servers. So what i did to connect them up was to stick the wifi router into my wired router via ethernet then put one of the pc which were originally wired to the wired router and connected it with a wire to the WIRELESS router. i then connected one of the servers to the wireless router via wire and it worked fine for the night i had it on.

BUT the very next night when one of the computers were restarted the computer could not reconnect to the network it was previously on. when i used ipconfig to find out the network ip it was connected to i found that it was connected to the wireless router even though the computer was directly connected to the wired router (which connects straight to the internet) so in effect it has tried to connect to the wireless router where there is no internet (the internet on it connects through one of the client ports since it is an asdl router which does not connect to the internet via asdl , so it is connected to the internet via one of its client ports (which does appear to work bar some status indicator on the wifi settings page , the connection status is "disconnected")

So how do i make it so that the computer that restarted can connect too? im not COMPLETELY sure what i have to setup but i had a look at the ip config in network connection>connection>properties but i have no idea really how to use tis , i tried what i thought but it didnt work. WHEN I RESTARTED BOTH ROUTERS AND THE CONNECTION TO THE INTERNET , THE PC BECAME CONNECTED TO THE INTERNET. but i dont want to have to do this every time. i think what the computer is doing is trying to get an ip automatically with the network and goes to the wifi router instead of the wired one. im sure its something simple and im surprised i actually managed to bring it into this much of a story. so yeah...

So the networks like this:

Internet
|
|
Router 1 (wired)-----
| |
| |
Comp 1 Router 2 Wireless ----------- Devices (wireless)
| |
| |
Comp 2 SRV 1Turn DHCP off on your wireless router. That way all your computers will get an IP from only your wired router. That should solve your issue of it not getting the right IP. ok ill try thatQuote from: jimbo8098 on April 20, 2011, 07:29:22 AM

...
So the networks like this:

Internet
|
|
Router 1 (wired)-----
| |
| |
Comp 1 Router 2 Wireless ----------- Devices (wireless)
| |
| |
Comp 2 SRV 1

I wanted to know if I can network my home systems together via USB. The LAN on my laptop is used for a hughesnet satlink and I
was wondering if I can't use something else. Null modem? (slow).Ethernet and Wireless are the COMMON forms of networking.
There are USB devices that will connect to a Ethernet.
There are USB devices that do wireless. These are more piratical for most users. No cables needed. But file transfer is slower.

But why not use a wireless router? The hughesnet device will go into WAN of the router and the home network is built around the wireless router. This is generally the most flexible method.
Quote

Home networking equipment may be required and is not included with your HughesNet system. For network setup, support, and configuration, CONTACT your ...

I am an English living in Spain part of the year, I had a Belgin 54G router to enable a wireless situation in my house, the house was struck by lightening which fried just about everything that was connected including the router. The laptop was not connected therefore OK. I have just bought a Tenda wireless router and connected it to my Hughes net SATELITE modem. Connected the erthenet cable and within MINUTES I was on the net. I connect to LOCAL area network instantly then my laptop is set to conect to a VPN automatically, all is well until I remove the erthenet wire then I LOOSE VPN connection. I also have a Android epad which when in UK it connects to any network I am in vicinty of but not to mine. I am not very computer savy but will attempt anything sugested as I have re run the setup wizard 17 times in the last few days to no avail. can anyone help please.Please provide what OS you are using and did it WORK before on the Belkin router running on wireless VPN?
See here on some steps you may have miss -> http://www.ehow.com/how_7310338_use-vpn-wireless-connectivity.htmlHi there, I am on Vista 32bit on a Advent 5431 laptop. It worked 100% with the Belkin 54g router but as stated it was fried along with loads of other equipment at the same time. Laptop was not connecte to anything so is OK. with the erthnet cable pluged into the router and the router pluged into the Hughesnet modem I can access the internet without fail. wirelessly through the router no chance. the router is sending out the local area network signal which I have recieved on my epad in my bedroom but no VPN so no internet. Help please
Regards VandermideCheck your user guide -> http://www.tenda.cn/pdtData/update_en/User_guide/wireless/W307R_User_Guide.pdf
For VPN
Quote

See here on some steps you may have miss -> http://www.ehow.com/how_7310338_use-vpn-wireless-connectivity.html

Hi; which programs do you guys like to use to tunnel into a WINDOWS PC while running linux?Why? Do you have a security issue?
VPN is ore often used on the internet for special applications that require very high LEVEL of security. Also, some wireless connections that cover a WIDE area.
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/ps5743/Products_Sub_Category_Home.htmlVPNs are generally used to allow a user to connect to a secure CORPORATE network from HOME, satellite offices or on the road.

I recently used the repair option for my wireless USB connection which wasn't responding. However, whilst doing so it stopped responding after disabling it and it never had the CHANCE to re-enable itself... Ever since then I've not been ABLE to find it under networks nor will the USB device respond when I unplug + replug it into any USB port.

System:
Microsoft windows xp
professional
version 2002
service pack 3

registered to:
michael
student
55274-640-060067223979

computer:
intel(r) core(tm)2 CPU
4400 @ 2.00ghz
2.00ghz, 3.00gb of ram
physical address extension


I am using a belkin model f6d4050 v1 enhanced wireless USB adapter.Have you installed the correct DRIVER? http://en-us-support.belkin.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3251/~/f6d4050-version-1-n150-enhanced-wireless-usb-network-adapter---driver-only
Other than thinking that it does not respond after plugging to any ports, it MIGHT well be a goner.

Hi everyone. I work in a small doctor's office which has an existing network, both wired and wireless. I got handed a project to get a guest access to the Internet set up. This is the setup we have now with 13 hard wired and 2 wireless connections. I'm not that knowledgeable in the realm of networks so if anyone can help I'd appreciate some input. Thanks.

Windows Server 2003
SMC 8014 cable modem
Linksys WRT54G
Linksys 16 port switch

I got a Linksys E1000 wireless router for the guest access feature and was going to replace the WRT54G with it. I got all the settings from the settings, including the static IP from our IPS, and was just going to set them into the E1000 with my local computer then switch the routers. I then found out the guest access can only be used with the included Cisco software CD.

Here's where I'm not sure what to do. Can I run the CD on my local machine to set up the new router with the guest access and then switch them or will that mess up our SSID and other settings? Should I run the software on the server instead and, if I do, will that again mess up our SSID and settings? Should I instead add the new router to the existing setup somehow, and if so, how?

I'm not that knowledgeable in the realm of networks so if anyone can help I'd appreciate some input. Thanks.
Easy setup would be to chain your routers placing the router with wifi to be shared closest to your ISP modem. Then plug your secured router off of the 4 or 5 available ports to hide your business network further upstream.
This makes the primary router connected to your ISP modem act like a DMZ zone between the ISP and your network, to be isolated from your business network so people dont probe around your business network.

ALSO change the DHCP IP address range to limit how many can be connected on this router to be shared wifi for guests so you can limit how many are connected if you like and change it from the default 192.168.1.1 to something like 192.168.70.1.

I would set up the wifi router to be shared with a level of security instead of leaving it wide open so guests need to use a PASSPHRASE to get connected etc, so you can control and avoid wardrivers. Also change the SSID so it doesnt report the routers model to anyone poking around. Easiest way to hack a wifi is to detect ones that are still default names to know how to GO about entry to them.

If you dont want to go with this easy method which adds a small amount of latency, you can go the route of that Cisco CD. Also you will have to create the same port forwards etc that you have on your existing main router to that of the router to be shared so that ports that need to be open are passthru such as for FTP etc.

This easy setup is one I put in place at a internet cafe where money was TIGHT and so got by with two $70 routers and protect the business network and create a shared DMZ zone for authorized customers squatting on the wifi. Also added a system on the DMZ side to monitor for hackers probing around to kick out if caught.OK, after being online with Linksys support for about an hour I got everything working. I took the settings from the existing WRT54G and manually put them into the E1000 using the webpage. I then installed the Cisco Connect software per their setup info. Then I just switched the 2 routers and everything worked! Apparently the latest RELEASE of their software fixed several problems and it now syncs to whatever changes were made manually. Thanks for the help.

My grandma has a desktp with windows xp and has a DIAL up connection.I have a wifi router.I hooked up the router to her ethernet port in the desktop. and i TRIED to bridge the connecions and it said there has to be two high speed internet connections and not shared by internet connection sharing. it did not work. and none of the connections were shared. so i tried ics and that turned the internet icon on the wifi router. so i got my LAPTOP out and connected and there was no internet. Oh and here house is out in the country so there is only dial up (she has 'People Pc') Here desktop is a dell with xp media center edition service pack 3 . my laptop is a toshiba stilite with windows 7 home premium 64 bit. the router is a belkin G wireless roter. You need a 4 port wireless router and save the inconveniences. No need to bridge any connection. Configure network settings on dell desktop by unticking dial-up settings and use automatic configurations.If I have READ every thing right you are wanting to set up a wireless router for a "dial up" connection.

Does the router support this? If it did I imagine it would be painfully slow.

Maybe you need to purchase something like the below and just dial in directly with your laptop.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Zoom+-+56K+V.92+USB+Mini+External+Data/Fax+Modem/8397923.p?id=1186004321251&skuId=8397923If you are having problems with your wireless networks than you can try this: you can go to the properties of a wireless network, removing all networks from the list. Windows should quickly recover network and request any necessary security settings: I think you can use the first time.

Ok Im not very good with computer networks.
We have at home a wireless network with 3 computers. the network is ran individually from the computers (so basically all the computers have access to the network all the time) There is no Main computer.
The problem begins when One of the computers start downloading something, especially torrent files, The other computers cannot use the network because its super slow... (it consumes all of our download and upload)
So I was wondering if there is a WAY to "split" the network in half. I mean that if one computer starts download it will only download and upload to a maximum of half of our bandwidth (we use 5 megas so each computer will have access to 2.5 MEGA all the time).

Thanks in advance !Normally the router will divide the load between the computers. But using a torrent requires some attention to detail. The torrent program asks for all the bandwidth unless you have already specified that the program must limit its bandwidth.

Are you aware that using torrent programs can bring you other kinds of problems? More serious that losing bandwidth.Yeah I know of the other problems their not really concerning me I dont use just any torrent.
However, you did not answer my question whether its possible or not. I have to do it within the torrent program ? I mean does it really work or the program will still lag my computer ?
Thanks in advance.
Direct answers.
The router does load balance automatically.
A torrent program will not let the router do its JOB right.
To fix this, you have to configure the torrent program.
The torrent program may not have a set of options the does just what you want. Yes, it is the program that will override standard settings unless you change things.
It depends on what torrent client you use.

Please REMEMBER, you are getting free advice here.

A commercial enterprise that wants to maximize the internet performance would buy a lot of hardware and software and hire IT experts to fine-tune the stuff. The real good stuff comes from Crisco and you pay for it.

Have somebody in you group get another phone line and a mediocre DSL. The 1500 M bps is good enough for watching Net flick on two PCs at the same time. But use use the cable modem only for those high speed multiple torrents that suck bandwidth.

You do understand that when you use a torrent you are letting strangers use your computer. They determine how the bandwidth is used. If you want to change it, you need to learn more about want a torrent is. And have a getaway car ready.

Maybe I should put it this way: You are a TAXI n driver and three thugs with masks ask you to go to the Bank with then and keep the motor running. And you worry that the high speed may be hard on your automobile.

When you use a torrent, you accept what ever issues the torrent brings ton you.
Yes, you can throttle the torrent, then it will take 3 hours to down load one movie.
Plenty of time for the FBI to trace you.
many router's offer a feature known as "QoS" which allows you to basically give priority to some computers over others, and I think it allows you to define a maximum amount of bandwidth for each connected Mac ID.BC_Programmer,
That's good!
It will do what he wants he he understands what it does. It will make sure that the other machines will have a level of service even when the torrent program tries to hog the bandwidth. He will assign the other PCs a Quality of Service that will ensure there is enough bandwidth for them. But the machine with the torrent will not have a high priority in the list. So, when everybody gets on, it will be the torrent that has to suffer, not the other PCs.
Wish I thought of that! Good answer!

So, im trace routing a website and i keep on getting a "request TIMED out", is there a way to get around this...? My dad said a possibility is that the server is blocking the tracert. Any advice on how to get around this?
Thanks Are all hops coming back timed out? It could be your HOME router, if the timeout is on the very first hop, in this case connecting the PC directly to the modem may CLEAR things up, or if it is a later hop, there are various reasons such as network congestion or a misconfigured router somewhere along the way. If you want I can do a tracert from my location for you to COMPARE. If the problem is out there in the internet, there is nothing you can do.

I think if ping response is DISABLED to protect against DoS attacks you wont get a traceroute response from that hop

So, here's my situation.

I have several hundred movies saved in .iso format on the hard drive of the main computer in my home office. What I'm trying to do is mount those files onto a virtual drive, using Magic Disc, onto other COMPUTERS in my home through my wireless network. When I do this, and attempt to watch through something like Windows Media Player, the movies stutter, similar to if I didn't have enough bandwidth to do this. The only thing is, if I just transfer the file from one computer to another, it only takes about 15 minutes, so you'd think I'd have enough bandwidth to stream the same file over a 2-hour period.

As for HARDWARE, all of the computers are home-built. The main one is RUNNING an AMD Phenom processor, 8gb of RAM, and a 512mb video card. The movies are CURRENTLY saved on a Seagate external 2TB hard drive.

The other computers have AMD 64 cpus, 4gb of RAM, and a 512mb video cards.

My wireless router is an ASUS RT-N12, broadcasting on 802.11n, and the other computers both have PCI wireless cards receiving at 802.11n. From what I can tell, the network is transmitting data at about 130mps.

Any thoughts or ideas you'd have on this would be great appreciated. Thanks!Don't try to stream VOB files directly. Much too big.
If I hardwired, would there be enough bandwidth?I have a mediocre home network and stream videos in AVI format. The AVI format is less the a quarter of the size of a VOB. Part of the connection is wireless, which limits bandwidth to 54 M bps for the class g wireless devices. Even so, it is jerky UNLESS I use a streamer, such as VLC.
So, I would recommend busing AVI or MP4 format and a streamer like VLC to run videos over a home network.
Here is one of many links about how to do this:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5143120_stream-vlc.html

Well i have a PC with Windows 7 , and my bro have a brand new MACBOOK Pro... The problem is everytime he turns on his Macbook, my internet stops working... or sometimes it just get way too SLOW. I've tried reseting router alot of times, CHANGING modem, reinstalling network DRIVERS... setting up windows firewall and nothing comes.... My PC is connected via ethernet to the Router, while the Mac is via WIfI.... Is there a way I can fix this? its really ANNOYING Help!!!

PD- sorry for my english its KINDA poor

Our office just bought a Ricoh Aficio MP C3000 and we have installed drivers to computer. We have also connected printer using ethernet cable and port. However we still cannot print to it or scan and email its users. Does anyone know how to connect these printers and/or configure them to the network server?We could go through a VARIETY of questions and suggestions to try and DETERMINE what your ISSUE is. However assuming that you have read the product manual and either it does not deal with your issue or that following the instructions it did not work. The best thing to do is telephone the tech support people for the printer and have them guide you through the process over the phone. Given that it is a new printer you should certainly be provided with free tech support at this point. From personal experience i have had excellent results from a variety of printer MANUFACTURERS with this approach, Caveat have not dealt with Ricoh on a printer issue but they were superb on a camera issue long ago.If for some reason that doesn't get the result you NEED please return and tell us then we shall try and work through your issue.truenorth

I am setting up part of a company setup, and we are trying to offer game servers to customers.

Each game server runs on a different port, such as domain.net:35580 and the next one runs on domain.net:35589 and whatnot.

We also currently have our domain from GoDaddy.com and we are using their zone file editor and the DNS dashboard.

We want to make it so that when we rent out a game server, it could be connectible by using a SUBDOMAIN, such as server1.domain.net. I know that this is easily done, but then to make it CONNECT to the right server without the customer having to use a port number.

I know there is the SRV (Service) listings, but i am not sure how to use this quite yet, or if it even would work for my applications.

If this is not possible to do from the tools GoDaddy.com provides, I am willing to set up a DNS server on the network and learn whatever it takes to complete the task.

Another option would be to gain multiple public IP addresses, but i am not sure a tall how to make that work.

I am doing IT for a currently very small company and don't have too much training in these aspects. If you can provide me with some solutions, that would be great. THANKSYOU'd be looking at one of the following solutions:

• an application layer hardware firewall that can redirect incoming requests according to the HTTP host header
• a reverse proxy (e.g. Squid, the famous open source proxy server, can operate in reverse proxy mode)
• a web server (such as Apache) that can operate as proxy for virtual hosts
• a load balancer such as HAProxy or Pound
• a web application firewall (again which can reverse proxy) such as ModSecurity

Greetings!

I am gathering together some IDE hard drives and older hardware as an exercise in setting up a FILE server in order to learn how to set up a RAID, and a basic LAN. I will probably be using Windows 2003 Server.

I know, I know, I know... n00b! GeNERic!

Now that that's out of the way...

The computer "box" I'm planning to use has one on-board Ethernet port. I am planning to connect two 'client' computers to the file server. MAY I connect them via a switch, or do I need to have 2 Ethernet ports in the box? (I think I can use a switch.)

Now, put on your sunglasses to protect yourself from my blinding ignorance.

Each of the 'clients' has an Ethernet port going to a router for Internet access. Do I need separate Ethernet ports in each client for the LAN? Part of me thinks Yes, but part of me thinks everything should be able to 'share.'

I am still reading / researching -- which I believe in doing -- but if anyone has any pointers, or any on-line resources to which you can POINT me, I'd appreciate any input.

Thank You.





I'd go with each computer 2 WORKSTATIONS and 1 server connected to router, all having outbound connectivity to the WWW as well as the router itself will act as a network switch between them for local traffic. So Local sharing would be easy, however if you plan on broadcasting as a FTP server to the WWW, you will need to configure your router to port forward to the server at specific ports in reference to its IP which would remain a constant such as 192.168.1.2 for server, and clients have float on DHCP on 192.168.1.3 -> 254. Also some ISP's block common FTP ports, so you might have to get creative by using say port 8079 etc.

I dont want to give away too much as for its fun to learn and have your first Client/Server network set up. If you have further questions post here and we will assist.Your file server would be able to WORK under Windows Server 2003, yes, but as a little injection of my own personal opinion, i believe linux operating systems are generally better for servers, and especially those new to servers, as many distributions are free.

On to next point:
Your server machine only needs one Ethernet/network port. This can simply hook into your home router. This will share it's files across your entire home network.

Your clients also only need one Ethernet port. Just have these plugged into the router as well.

Using this basic setup, you have every requirement needed to share files. You would just need to set windows server to share a folder or partition(s) as a shared network drive.

Also, there are ways to make your files available over the internet from an internet browser, and free ways to set up a website as well. All of which only require a simple machine to run on.

I wish you luck, as the realm of servers can be quite an interesting experience.

hello

I am connected to a secured wifi USING a wireless tp-link adapter. I can access the router settings page but I can't reach the router for connecting an Ethernet cable. the router model is: TP-Link WR641G/WR642G

I have a TP-Link WR741ND router and I want to use it to extend the wifi. so this is not a case of 2 routers directly. because I can't connect the two routers with an Ethernet cable. is there a way to extend the wifi using the router I have?

This link may help you extend your signal -> http://www.labnol.org/software/add-router-to-wireless-network/19716/If you feel like taking a plunge here, you can install an alternative firmware for your routers from DD-WRT http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index (this includes flashing your routers, this can brick a router if not done right, and will make a router useless if bricked)

This will ALLOW you to create a wireless repeater, a wireless bridge, and a few other things as well, eliminating the need for an Ethernet cable. The firmware only needs to be installed on the repeater, and not the main router that connects you to the internet.

With a solution like this, you would not need to run cable THROUGHOUT your house.

Directions on how to create a wireless bridge from an old router http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Repeater_Bridge. Make sure your router is compatible before trying.

If you do not feel like using the DD-WRT, using Ethernet cable between routers and setting the one that does NOT connect to the internet as a access point will do the trick, as the link from a previous poster explains in detail.

My computer is a Dell Dimension 2400 Series running Windows XP SP3. I have a Netgear WG111v2 54Mbps Wireless USB 2.0 Adapter #4. I am trying to connect to a router in my home that I know for sure is working because I also run a Roku (streaming video) device off of it. When I first restart my computer, the Windows Wireless Network tool shows me multiple available networks. When I try to connect to one, it will stall. I then have tried to "Repair" the connection by clicking repair in the Wireless Connections Window, at which point it tells me that it cannot complete the repairing process because it could not disable the wireless adapter. My computer is still recognizing the adapter, so I'm wondering why this is. After attempting to repair the connection, the Wireless Network Tool shows no available networks. I'm wondering if maybe my wireless adapter is dying (is that POSSIBLE?) or possibly there are some settings in my computer that need to be changed? I know for sure the problem is not the router as it works FINE with Roku. Please help! Thank you in advance!http://kbserver.netgear.com/release_notes/D102948.asp see the software and fix available to manage wireless network.
Thank you for the response! I followed the instructions on the page, and now my network connection software is showing multiple networks, but it is still not allowing me to connect to any of them.Try another USB port. Connect to your home network SSID and enter the correct password key. The security encryption (WPA/WPA2) set on the router must match on what your Netgear usb wifi adapter can support. Check WZC on your startup services also. Hit Start - Run - type services.msc - Enter. Look for Wireless Zero CONFIGURATION and see if the startup type is Automatic. If not, change and hit apply. See also, how to remove wireless network profile.

hey, that worked! thank you!

i have a hp PAVILION g6 laptop running windows 7, i am using a usb modem stick for the internet. I have no problem connecting to the internet with the battery but
as soon as i plug in the ac power cord my internet disconnects immediately. Help please Have you tried a different usb port? Check your Advanced power plan SETTINGS for USB suspend, when on battery and plugged in.thanks for your reply jason. It seems to MAKE no difference plugging it into another usb port. What should my advanced power plan setting be set
at ?? Any help would be great. See this link http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/147369-usb-selective-suspend-turn-off.htmlThanks for the link jason very helpful site. Unfortunately even after setting my usb suspend to enable i still can only connect to the net by
battery and not ac power. Still need help with this problem. Does anyone has a solution, please help its very frustrating only being able to connect to the net with battery power. Can anyone advise me how to get my laptop to stay connected to net when using ac power.... Have you tried both methods of inserting your USB modem with the COMPUTER plugged into the power adapter.
1. Plug in the modem prior to turning on the computer (plugged into power source with adapter) /turn on computer.
2.Modem removed from computer USB connection/computer powered by adapter and on/insert USB modem.
Any difference?truenorthThanks truenorth have tried both methods you mentioned and still cant connect using ac powerPlease provide brand and model of "a usb modem stick for the internet." .truenorthDoes it work in other PC's ? ?usb modem stick is vividwireless and no i dont have ACCESS to another computer to try this out. The internet connection works fine but i can only connect when i am using battery power as soon as i plug in power cord for laptop i lose internet connection instantly and can only reconnect when i take ac power cord out of laptopTry removing the battery pack and using only the AC adapter when booting your computer this time and check if there is internet connection from there.

When I am close to my router I can CONNECT through wireless fine, but when I move to another room it doesn't work. I can still detect the router with at least 4 bars, but I can't connect to it. I get a troubleshoot error.

My router is WNDR3700-100NAS - http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-Gigabit-WNDR3700/dp/B002HWRJY4
I don't know what the problem is. The first DAY I can connect fine but then the second day I can't connect from far away. I tried resetting the router but it still doesn't work. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this?Try checking your router's firmware version and see if you can upgrade it to fix certain issues. Read the instructions as written.thats not the right version, sorry, thats v2, my router is v3. I found out that when I am at a even farther distance I can connect fine, but then when I enter my room it disconnects. I think there is some type of interference in my room. But its STRANGE cause the first day it WORKED fine. Thx for the help, I don't think you can assist me any further.I suspect it's switching frequencies. Lock the frequency so it doesn't change bands.
OR
V3 not YET supported. V1&2 chipset is Alteros, V3 is Broadcom.
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=149115&highlight=wndr3700

OK, I'll try to give as much info here as I can, but if there's something I'm not mentioning, just ask. I have AT&T DSL in my home. Just LATELY I've seen a noticeable drop in internet related performance (youtube, gaming, etc). Previously when I would run the test on Speedtest.net, my scores would be around .50mbps download and 1.5mbps upload. Now it's around .40 download and .45 upload. I'm using a Linksys WRT54G router and the Speedstream DSL modem I've had since signing up with AT&T probably 10 years ago.

I run Super Antispyware, Malwarebytes and Auslogics BoostSpeed frequently and have been finding a few issues recently (with Malwarebytes) but they've all been REMOVED. I also suspected maybe someone was piggybacking on my Wi-Fi, so I changed the password and removed all the saved items listed as being connected, then reconnected my laptop, tablets, etc, making sure to name each one as I connected it so I would know which was which.

Also, I'm guessing that multiple devices connected and accessing the internet at the same time could cause the connection to slow down, but I have tried the Speedtest.net test with nothing but my desktop connected (hardwired, not Wi-Fi) and still got the same results.

Any suggestions? Could it be that my modem or router are pooping out?I'd test with nothing else connected except for 1 computer that is performing loopback bandwidth testing with speedtest.net as for .5mbps download and 1.5mbps upload sounds like other devices are hogging bandwidth to cause this low figure. If you have 1.5mbps upload then your download should be between 3mbps and 6mbps depending on what your ISP has allocated as the allowed bandwidth for whichever plan you have. Its usually a figure where the upload is 25% of the download speed, but I have seen some that different.

With DSL you also have to worry about lack of filters in your home on the phone line as for noise can cause issues, but this generally will cause intermittent connection and disconnections etc, as well as the AGE of the copper wire in the home, which if you have had it running on this copper for last 10 years your probably fine.

The telephone company / ISP should also be able to perform a loopback test between their site and yours for free just a phone call away and they can confirm if all looks well or if something looks like its running outside of the normal operating conditions between the DSL Modem and their site.

If your bandwidth is good with just 1 computer connected then add 1 device at a time and test again to see which device may be a bandwidth hog ( generally they are not bandwidth hogs unless someone is downloading or streaming video through them ). Keep adding your networked devices until you find the one that is causing issues. If no issues are found then its likely that you had too many people streaming or downloading content at the same time.Yeah, I realized when I read your post that I had that backwards. It was usually 1.5mbps download, .5 up. That said, I called the phone company and they did a few things on their END and sped it back up to normal, and then tried to get me to move up to a better! faster! cooler! package, which also, conveniently was more expensive, lol...

Hello,

I need to log a lot of data from tcpdump, thus I just want sample data (LET's say 10 or 20 percent of the ACTUAL traffic).
I know how to filter on tcp and port-numbers, but i haven't found a way to record only sample data. All Packages of a single connection should be recorded,
but not all connections.

Does anyone know how to achieve this goal?

Kind regards

Michaelhttp://www.tcpdump.org/tcpdump_man.html

Adding the -w flag will cause it to write info to file. You can then use this file to get the info you need.
Quote

It can also be run with the -w flag, which causes it to save the packet data to a file for later analysis

I recently bought a secondhand wireless router (D-Link Di-624 - an old model, but seems in good condition) to try to set up a network of 2 PCs (1 Vista, 1 XP) and a Smart TV (Samsung). In looking for info on installation, all the how-to VIDEOS seem to INDICATE that the router should be connected to the ISP original modem as one of the steps in the process. I had thought that the router would be directly connected to the internet source and replace the modem and once the connection of the main PC to the internet was made the other devices could be "tuned in". Am I right to assume this? I have tried following a couple of the suggested methods but could not connect. Could anyone suggest a good step by step guide?
Any help appreciated.

You need a modem. The modem connects to the router.Some ISPs provide a combined modem/router; I have such a device from UK Virginmedia. It is a rebadged Netgear device. However, the D-Link Di-624 is not such a device. It is just a router. You can easily find out information about all kinds of hardware by using a search engine (Google is a good one). I typed "D-Link Di-624 router" as a search and GOT a list of results. About 4 results down was a link to a review of the router. Reviews are good things to read because they contain answers to most of the questions that INTENDING buyers or new owners might have. For example, this review says:

Quote

The hardware setup is a snap, LITERALLY. Connect the DI-624 to your broadband modem with the cable that came with your modem, use the Ethernet cable in the package to connect the router to your computer, and you're done.

I recently bought a secondhand wireless router (D-Link Di-624 - an old model, but seems in good condition) to try to set up a network of 2 PCs (1 Vista, 1 XP) and a Smart TV (Samsung)...

• Can't access CERTAIN websites. EXAMPLE: I can load www.facebook.com perfectly fine, but if i do www.netgear.com it times out.
• If i try connecting let's say, my playstation, it refuses to connect to playstation network.

• Tried changing DNS servers, both client and router-side.
• Tried rebooting the home-central
• Tried factory resetting both routers
• Checked firewall, and other security measures if they are blocking it

• Check port settings (Though, it shouldn't block anything)

Checked firewall, and other security measures if they are blocking it

I have a CAT6 ethernet patch cable running about 65m. I can't get connectivity and I think it's because the cable might be too long. I know the LIMIT is 100m long, but I can't figure out what else might be the problem. I tried two different machines to test the cable and neither got connectivity, so I got a switch and hooked that up and the little green connection light didn't go on. I made sure the cable was not broken by sending power down it with a power supply and reading the voltages on the other end and everything was ok. This leads me to think that the problem is either with the cable termination or the length. I tried changing the connectors for both A and B standard. They are really hard to put on, so it's possible I'm not doing it right, but I tried a billion times and Im getting really tired of this. Any suggestions?You got the ends wrong. Make both ends type A.
Do coypu have the right tools to do the cable ends?
Where you BOUGHT it sou hso have the tester for testing all 8 wires.
Something like this:

Or this:

Those on on eBay listed under :
Computers/Tablets & Networking > Cables & Connectors > Cabling Tools
About $150 plus shipping. The tester is worth havering. Save you hours of work.
Well originally I had both ends type B and tried changing one to A. It's hard for me to undo to other one because the connector wasn't working so I just soldered the wires together. Do you really think that's the problem? And no, I don't have any tools except the connectors and a wire stripper.Without the right tools it is hard to do.
So you soldered the wires into the devices?
Do you have a picture of what yon did?
Reading your response post, Yes soldering the wires together will cause no communication to happen.

Also, as you said you did not have any tools other than the connectors and wire stripper; The connectors require a "CRIMPING tool" which crimps the connector to the wires, and connects the internal cores of the wires to the plug connectors. There is no need to strip the wires from the cores themselves. This crimper tool is the tool shown in the image posted by Geek-9pm with the green handles. A local JayCar store will have these.

The only bit that needs to be stripped is the outer jacket by an inch or so, then trim the end of the cores so they are all identical length. The length the cores need to extend past the outer jacket is about the length of your thumbnail.

Unfortunately in your case you will need to cut the end connector off if you cannot get the connector to come off.Yeah, I don't have one of those tools, I thought I could do it without. Also these are probably not the type of connectors you are talking about. I am talking about the female connectors that you use in a wall plate, not the kind you plug directly into your comp.

Quote

So you soldered the wires into the devices?
Do you have a picture of what yon did?

Yeah, I don't have one of those tools, I thought I could do it without. Also these are probably not the type of connectors you are talking about. I am talking about the female connectors that you use in a wall plate, not the kind you plug directly into your comp.

No, I'm not that dumb. I meant I soldered the wires to the wall plate connector (In the proper configuration (or so I thought), not just a random mass of wires).

So I'm going to try getting the normal connector that you plug into a comp instead of this wall plate connector and then use the tool that you talked about. I don't think that tool will work the same with the wall plate connector. I'll just have to ignore that I have a cable through a hole in the wall instead of a proper plate.

So here's the deal. We have a switch unit and a broadband phone internet. However, we want to have access to a wireless connection.
In the past, we have done this and ALL of our IP's changed (as we have network printers, camera system etc).

Is it possible to plug in a wireless router to the switch or something and allow devices to connect to that wireless router (aka - bridging)?


We have tried doing a hotspot on a laptop which was connected to the internet via ethernet. This however did not work as no internet data seems to be going through any connected devices.Where are you? Inside North America?
First, who is your provider? If you want to go from a 3G broadband to a wireless, you are already making a poor choice. You need to contact your provider about the feasibility of this. Each scenario can be different.
Using a mobile phone as a hot spot gives fair to good performance. However, adding a hub or switch or router raises the level of complexity.
Is this for AT&T., Sprint, T-Mobile or VERIZON?
Is your mobile device an Android or a Apple device?
Did you talk to the provider?
Do you have a bandwidth and usage limit?
Have you ever had more than three devices on the hot spot all at one time?
Please respond and get answers from others who use the same stuff you have.

(Myself, I have iPhones on AT&T business and will not recommend it. It works, but not as good as I could wish)

Geek-9pm - No, its not a mobile broadband. We have desktop internet phones, the phone runs via the internet. Something stupid like that anyway's. But all of that doesn't really matter.

The set up is all based on a LinkSys router (none wireless) which gives static IP's to each devices connected to it. From the router, there's the switch to allow MULTIPLE Ethernet plugins.
However, this setup does not provide us with ANY wireless connection, just pure wired. Now, we would like to have a wireless connection to allow smartphones to be connected to it.

My question is - How can I bridge a wireless router to the existing router (or switch) to provide us with a wireless connection?

1 of my colleagues tried to place a netgear wireless router to the switch 1 time and it over-writ every IP, meaning all the network printers did not work, phones not working and just the HOLE internet not working.OK. Not a mobile hot spot.
So you get internet via a wire or cable. They provide RED anemone router with not wireless.

Now I wee what you want. Here is the way I do it. But there are variations. You get a good wireless router. Fortieth the Hub or Switch. I mean it will no0t be part of the wireless, unless you want to have a LAN party.

You can come out of the existing router and conned it to a new wireless router. (Or an older wireless router of good quality.) You must disable DHCP on the new device. Do not use WAN of new router. That new device must not have the same base IP as the first router. Put it a little bit higher in the same subset.
If first router is 192.168.1.1, then make the next router 192.168.1.20 or whatever. Something within the mask (subset). That means if the mask is 255.255.255.0 then only the last number set vary.
Your switch, if you need it, could go on the first router.

The general rules is: One device only doles DHCP. Next router has to have a a higher IP address. Inside the range given by the mask.

Please post back if you need more help or if what I said makes no sense.


All you need to do is plug a "Wireless Access Point" into the switch and set the access point its own IP and disable the Access Point's DHCP server. This will give you a wireless network that will connect into your wired network with no issues such as CHANGING IP address.

Hi to Everyone,

I have NETGEAR WN3000 range extender. It is installed properly and sends a wireless router signal to a further distance in our house where PC RECEPTION is not very good unless an extender is used. This range extender has 4 green lights labled WPS, Link Rate, Status and PC to Extender. My question is to be working properly should all 4 green lights be lit all the time. The reality is sometimes all four are green, sometimes only three are green, and sometimes only two are green. I am thinking all four lights should be green all the time. Is this correct or not? The extender is halfway between the router and the PC upstairs that receives its signal and that PC does get an internet connection with the range extender. We have three computers all using Windows 7. Are some of these lights supposed to go off if one or two of the computers using the range extender are shut down?
Thanks,
beachguyHere is the explanations as to what your 4 lights indicate"On the front of the unit there are four LED lights, the first of which indicates a wireless connection. The second LED lights up when the extender is connected to a PC, the third LED illuminates when the unit is on and the fourth LED indicates the link rate. The link rate indicates the quality of the connection between the extender and the router with green indicating the best connection, amber a workable one and red a poor one. If the light is off then there is no connection at all between the extender and router."
This is the site from which the above is quoted.
http://www.avforums.com/review/Netgear-Universal-WiFi-Range-Extender-WN3000RP-Review.html
I think you will find the site helpful in order to gain maximum advantage from your extender,truenorthThanks, I will go to the link you posted.
beachguyI looked at the link you provided and it gave a thorough explanation as to what each LED light stands for. It doesn't really answer my question as to once the extender is properly set up, should all 4 LEd lights be continuously lit and what it means if they are not. As stated before, sometimes I have all 4 lights on the extender lit up, other times only 3, and at other times only 2 lights are lit. Is this normal? The link provided doesn't address this. Is the router periodically dropping its signal to the extender? If it has 2 lights showing , it can revert back to 4 lights or 3 lights lit on its own at any time, and conversely if it has 4 lights lit it can drop down to 2 or 3 lights lit in what seems to be in a random fashion. Still curious about this situation.I think you are asking something that is already answered in the part i quoted. Just stop and think for a moment re each individual light. That ought to point out to you that all the lights indicate singular functions of the unit. ALL those individual functions have different presentation options (for you to see) depending on what they are sensing. So in my opinion if you see that as their function your question is answered in all it's aspects you are wondering about. IE: on/off/colour variances as per the function status." I have all 4 lights on the extender lit up, other times only 3, and at other times only 2 lights are lit. Is this normal? " Yes it is normal if the lights NOT lit are reflecting the actual state of whatever they are reporting.That is what they were designed to do. It is up to YOU then as the user to modify something if the resultant presence or lack of of an illuminated light tells you whatever that particular light is telling you (in that each of the 4 relates to a different aspect of the functioning of the extender). I really don't see where your problem re the lights is given the information provided. truenorthI agree with what you are saying. However, what I am looking for you have addressed when you SAID, ...."I should modify something." What are the exact things /areas I could look into to see if something needs an ADJUSTMENT on our 3 computers. I know everything should be in sync for this to work properly. They completed the extender's smart wizard program, they all have the same level of security, they are all in a home group NETWORK, they all use the same SSID (example X_EXT), they all connect automatically to an address, not manually, they all use the same security pass phrase which does not have to be entered all the time. What else can I check to see if everything is aligned correctly? I appreciate your feedback. beachguy.http://www.netgear.com/images/WN3000RP_DS_22Mar1118-17219.
http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/networking-and-wi-fi/general-networking/netgear-wn3000rp-universal-wi-fi-range-extender-1040140/review
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XnnEIBqGV4
I was about to digress on the functioning and factors that can influence the performance of your wifi extender. While i do not own your product i do have some experience with the devices as i have used a competitor's brand. However the combination of the three links above should tell you more than you will ever want to know about your device and extenders in general. You need to realize that when you think of the function of the extender is that it is in the middle between your router/modem and your computer. Think of forward and back. Things that are backward (to the router/modem) can effect what the extender can provide (distance/obstacles/performance of the router/modem/etc).In a nutshell the extender cannot improve on what is occurring backward.Forward the factors affecting the computer's functioning can also be affected by the same elements as the extender itself. But in that case are affected by their (the computers) conditions not by the extenders. IE place your computer beyond or at the limits of the extenders range and you will have no signal or a diminished signal. Those same factors apply to the extender in regards to the router/modem. Also the extender can be affected by settings as to how it recognizes the modem/router.Anyhow read through the articles i have linked and all that and more will be explained and will perhaps make you realize that there are factors under your control that can influence the optimum advantage and performance of your device.truenorthThanks again for your input. I will review what you have said and also review the new links you have provided. Thanks, beachguy.

id like to share files from my school computer to my desktop. The desktop is hardlined to a router, so i could just connect my laptop to that. How do i share the files? I DONT really know how to set up a workgroup/file sharing (can someone point me towards a tutorial?)
unless theres an BETTER way, SAY just connecting the two computers directly over ethernet (though i dont think that is possible/simple is it?)

thanks!Depending on the OS of your laptop and desktop, the file sharing and homegroup setup are most likely AVAILABLE online. Such as this link.I have just been trying to do a similar thing with my home network. i have a desktop pc that is hard-wired to my router and 2 laptops that connect wirelessly. All run Windows 7 home premium. I have set up a home group and i think i have configured all the permissions (after a lot of trial and error). There should be nothing stopping files being VIEWED or transferred. However when i go into my home-group none of the library folders will open to show me the files. I am confused since i can view some files and folders over the general network but not all. Setting individual folder permissions makes no difference.

Does it matter that i cant use the homegroup if i can view the files i want over the main network? I am a little confused over the difference.

can anyone help please?

Can someone please help me RESTORE my wireless software on my laptop. I had a FRIEND to deleted in error this past weekend and now I can no LONGER access my wireless internet. Thanks in advance for any help out there.Download wireless LAN driver from laptop manufacturer.

What was deleted &AMP; how? Could still be available through Windows System Restore.

I just bought an Atheros AR5B195 wirless card for my laptop that supports both Wi-fi and Bluetooth, but my laptop does not recognize it. I have tried searching for drivers, but nothing I install seems to work. I even found that the Wi-fi part of the card might USE an AR8285 driver and that the Bluetooth part might us an AR3011 driver, but those don't work either.

This is a Toshiba Satellite M645-S4118x laptop with Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit installed. I believe the computer recognizes that the device is installed and is listing it as "Network Controller" with an exclamation mark in Device Manager.

Will this card even work with this laptop? If it will, how can I resolve this issue?The original OS that came with your laptop should be atleast a WIN 7 Home edition and an Ultimate version driver is not available. HOWEVER, see this Toshiba ->link<- for it may work by using the Win 7 driver.Thank you for the suggestion, but I have already tried both Atheros drivers provided by Toshiba for my laptop model.Is this the original or a replacement wifi card for the Toshibal laptop?It is a replacement card that I did not order for Toshiba. I have actually resolved the issue now. It took a few days of searching, and I had to use different drivers (one for the wi-fi part and one for the bluetooth part), but it is now working perfectly.Thanks for checking back that you solved it this time. Can you tell me where you found the drivers. I'm having the same issues. Thanks. DrewSure thing:

For the wireless part, you need the AR9285 driver, which I found at http://www.mediafire.com/?2zgmmuyj4zw. I found the link in this forum: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/44256-63-atheros-ar9285-driver-issues-wireless. I believe it is actually a modified version of AR9285.

For the Bluetooth part, you need the AR3011 driver, which I found at http://www.x-drivers.com/catalog/drivers/bluetooth_adapters/companies/atheros/models/bluetooth/22472.html. I found that it is necessary to take out any USB Bluetooth adapter before you try to install it; otherwise it will not find the INTERNAL Bluetooth card.

As a CAUTION, my audio now messes up sometimes when I am playing online videos, regardless of the player, but it happens so infrequently that I can deal with it. It is likely that it is actually a side effect of the many things I tried, so I will clean up my computer a little to see if that fixes the problem.

I am currently building a network in my home office which will span a few rooms. I have multiple devices a COUPLE PC's, a wireless printer and a Macbook. I have built several wireless networks in the past which only consisted of PC's so adding this Mac to the mix is new. I was CURIOUS what were some GOOD recommendations you guys might have for me?

I really do appreciate the time.

P.S. I had been looking at the Mac Airport Extreme but my searching has yielded not much in how it meshes with PC base systems.Hi there,

How do you plan to use the Macbook within the network?

COULD you also list all the devices that will be in your network please with specifications.

Thanks,
B2 There is really no difference when SETTING up a network if there is a mac or not, it will connect just like a PC. Macs can also access Samba shares and use Active Directory if you are using that.

This should get you started:

Open up My Computer
Right-Click the drive you want to share
Select "Sharing & Security"
ACKNOWLEDGE warning
Follow instructions.

Best to CREATE a folder just for sharing, you don't really want to share the entire "C"-drive. You can also create a separate partition just for sharing.

Which Tenda wireless router did you get?
HI again ....The Tenda router I got was labeled as

Tenda N3 Mini b/g/n 150Mbps WiFI Wireless-N Router AP English Firmware

from E bay for 20 BUCKS free postage from China although i had to wait a bit ... no hurry though ..
anyway .
I am having a look at what you wrote for me and will get back to you if it works , or not , since XP already has folders called shared folders i was trying to SEE if they worked first ... the problem was just trying to see the other computer

Anyway I will try and see how I get on ........
thanks agian


That is a "mini"; only has 1 wired LAN port.
http://www.tenda.cn/tendacn/Product/show.aspx?productid=395&type=1Yes that looks like it .... but I should still be able to see the other compuetr to share files by wif fi ..correct ....
It Also has something called wi-fi direct , but im not sure what it is or how it works , i think it is for file sharing but you have to turn the internet bit off ,,, i did that once and it took me ages to get it back on ....
I will have to read up on it first .....
What would be the easiest way to share files over wi-fi /.?