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Hello all,

I have an UBUNTU 14.04.5 LTS X32 server that is running KVM/virtmanager with 2 VMs.

I need all traffic on the box to be mirrored to an interface on one of my VMs.

I installed Openvswitch and created bridge ovsbr0 with it. I setup eth0 to use ovsbr0.

I went into virt-manager and changed the nic to "specify shared device name" and the bridge was set to "ovsbr0". On VM start, I observe port vnet0, vnet1, and vnet2 created and attach to the bridge. (output below)

[emailprotected]:~$ sudo ovs-vsctl show
xxx-xxx-xxx-xxx
Bridge "ovsbr0"
Port "vnet1"
Interface "vnet1"
Port "vnet2"
Interface "vnet2"
Port "eth0"
Interface "eth0"
Port "ovsbr0"
Interface "ovsbr0"
type: internal
Port "vnet0"
Interface "vnet0"
ovs_version: "2.0.2"


I was then able to create a rule in openvswitch using the following command to bridge all traffic to one of those ports.

sudo ovs-vsctl -- set Bridge ovsbr0 [emailprotected] -- [emailprotected] get Port eth0 -- [emailprotected] get Port vnet0 -- [emailprotected] get Port vnet1 -- [emailprotected] get Port vnet2 -- [emailprotected] create Mirror name=pvsintfmirror [emailprotected],@vnet1,@eth0 [emailprotected],@vnet1,@eth0 [emailprotected]

The mirroring worked but my issue is that on REBOOT, the VM interfaces seem to get assigned to those vnet ports randomly. Thus, the mirroring rule breaks if the wrong VM interface gets assigned to the wrong port.

If anyone knows how to ENSURE that the right interface connects to the vnet2 port so that mirrored traffic flows correctly, that would be a big help.

Thanks
Random thought coming from my use of Xen (so may be completely useless in your situation) - Check what MAC address the interfaces are coming up with in your VMs and check that they are the same on every reboot - I found with Xen that it would randomly generate a MAC address for each interface every time the VM was started and since it was different the guest OS wouldn't NECESSARILY assign them the same interface number as they had previously (the guest OS sees them as completely new adapters). If this turns out to be the issue, you'd then want to look and see if there is a WAY to specify the MAC address you want each interface to have so that it is persistent.Thanks for the reply.

the MAC addresses of the interfaces are coming up the same accross reboots. The interface MAC addresses are stated in VM xml files.

Hello
I have an hp 15 notebook running windows 10. It was fine last night and now this afternoon it cannot connect to any access point. It will connect to wifi for a moment then disconnects again. When i ran diagnostics it SAID "This computer was manually disconnected from [my home network.] I tried plugging it in and it says UNIDENTIFIED network and then invalid ip configuration. Ive tried it on two different networks same problem. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: I checked the DEVICE manager all devices working PROPERLY. Also the computer will ping the gateway. And of course i tried restarting the modems etcIs this a laptop? How old is it?
A simple USB Wi-Fi adapter sells for about $10 an is an easy way to find out if the built-in adapter has failed.
Here is one such from Walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/300Mbps-Mini-Wireless-USB-Wifi-Adapter-LAN-Internet-Network-Adapter-802.11n-g-b/40809384
Also try Amazon, Best-Buy or almost any electronics store.
Yeah its a laptop. Its only year or so old. Maybe ill give the adapter a try. Thanks for the reply.I would try some other things before running out and buying a USB wifi adapter.

It's possible that Windows installed a driver update for the wifi adapter that caused the problem. You could try looking in Updates history and seeing if such an update was installed and try to uninstall it.

Another option would be to go to the HP website and download the latest wifi adapter driver for Win 10 they have listed on their site.Did you run the networking troubleshooter?Thanks for responses. I will check the updates when i get home and report back. I did run diagnostics and its says the computer has manually disconnected from the access point. When i PLUG in ethernet and run it it says the router has an invqlid ip config but ive tried it on two different networks. I can post the diagnostic logs when i get home if you think it might be helpful.http://www.wikihow.com/Refresh-Your-IP-Address-on-a-Windows-ComputerThanks. As i said i tried unplugging both modems i tried it on. I also should have mentioned i tried to refresh the IP.When I run diagnostics it says a I was manually disconnected from the network. When I run diagnostics with the ethernet plugged in it says invalid ip configuration. The drivers are up to date.Turns out it was a corrupt tcp/ip stack so if anyone else experiences this look into that after you try everything else. Thanls for the help everybody

Hi,

Under connections there seems to be something called a VMalware Network Adapter on my PC. It has an Ethernet port next to it. I do not use my Ethernet at all.

I have tried running Malwarebytes and it DIDNT PICK up anything. This has been on my PC for about a week. It has had no significant IMPACT on the performance of my PC as far as I have noticed, however I did notice that a few days ago when I tried to print from a printer that I am connected to WIRELESSLY that I could not print despite the printer working fine and this was also an unusual occurance since I am usually able to print.

If you have knowledge please be kind to educate me on the problem and solutions to take?

Kind Regards
I'm going to guess it's vmware and not vmalware.Yes actually, you are CORRECT, is it something to worry about? no

Hi,
Can anyone please help me answer this question:
Explain the benefits of the ring network topology VS star; in the context of stackable switches.
Thanks much,
LeilaSorry, but we prefer not to help with homework ASSIGNMENTS. It doesn't really help you.Its best to GOOGLE search on this and do the RESEARCH as well as if you have books on this when it describes each network type, it usually goes into the PROS and cons of each type. At least it did in the books I read on this back in college years ago. Here is a NUDGE in the right direction: https://www.google.com/#q=benefits+of+the+ring+network+topology+vs+star+topology

I have a Windows 8 HUAWEI Phone, that I downloaded Teether It and use that to connect with my computers that are able to access the Wireless. Primarily, the one that I use is running Windows 8. However, I have DEVICES that aren't Windows or have a wireless card in them but, still need and want to get ONLINE with them. I connect one MACHINE to access the teethering and then go into the settings and tell it to share then NETWORK and connect to the wireless network, doing this seems to make the network limited and I can't be online then.

Hey guys, appreciate your attention here. I'm a Comcast customer who currently uses the Xfinity modem/router all-in-one for internet access. I would to change this so that my Netgear cm500 is the acting modem, but I'm confused on how to still have wireless to the rest of the house. The Xfinity modem ACTS as a router as well, is it possible to to use the Ixfinity as simply a router? I read something suggesting I would need a splitter to do this, but won't that degrade the signal? Would that only be to make the Xfinity work as a router? If I purchased a dedicated router that isn't a modem too would I still need a splitter?

Really unaware about how modems and routers work, dunno what cables I need or if I have to get a separate router entirely. Thank you much for any advice!

Here's the two products I mention:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R92CEVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833588001&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Modems-_-N82E16833588001&gclid=Cj0KEQjwqfvABRC6gJ3T_4mwspoBEiQAyoQPkS8-BSK2PcFzJycVd3qlgRuzswP15C1ItiCWPFMHXJIaAoTe8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.dsHello, here is my short answer. I have been there and done that. Forget about it.
Some detail: Comcast, like many other service providers, want to protect their own interests while giving users a good service. Unless you can prove to the technical people at Comcast that you really have to have a different router, they're going to say definitely not.
The Internet service providers have an agreement where you will use their service for just your own household and a limited number of devices in your household. Using an additional router is practically inviting the whole world into your Internet connection. The Internet provider wants to know what password you are using and whether or not that password is very secure. They do not want you to use another form of Wi-Fi interface that would be less secure. Adding Wi-Fi boosters or range extenders also is a concern for the Internet service provider. The end-user license agreement specifically prohibits you from reselling or even giving away Internet service to other people outside of your business or family plan.
Now, having said that, there are a few ways they may allow you to extend your wireless coverage. The most obvious thing to do is to have your Comcast wireless router move to a central location inside of your house and possibly had elevated position so they can give best possible coverage to your entire house. After that, you might be able to use a wireless repeater to boost the signal level in one corner of your residence or place of business.
Again, let me repeat this idea. Using another router is just another thing that you're Comcast provider does not want to have to think about. The net gear router has just too many options and possibilities it could drive your Internet service provider crazy trying to figure out what you're trying to do.
Which brings up the question, what really are you trying to do? Do you really think you need a better router? Why? The insanity wireless router is capable of doing Wi-Fi connections at 150 Mb per second. That's faster than, and Ethernet connections and a whole lot faster than anything you can get down the Internet..
All right, this is the end of my rant. Thank you for listening.
From what I can SEE there is no way to do what you are wanting, you would need to get a separate router that has a "WAN" port that you can connect to the Netgear modem.

What are you hoping to gain by using the separate modem? People tend to replace their ISP provided router with one of their own to get better performance/more features.etc but I can't really see a reason to replace the modem while KEEPING the ISP's router.Yes the netgear modem has more channels and I've been told will increase my speeds. Wireless is really faster than wired? I haven't heard that, that's very counter intuitive. Have I gotten bad advice? The thing is the netgear is a modem only so it will not provide wireless, I've heard separate modem and router setups are ideal, so I guess I was wondering if I could use the netgear as the modem, wired to my computer, and the xfinity as a router for wireless. Am I on the wrong path here?

EDIT: And yes the motivation is to get higher speeds, mine are pretty lackluster for what I pay for.I'd be surprised if the new modem gave higher speeds than the one that is designed for your ISP. If your speeds are low then you would be best to talk to your ISP about it to see what sort of speed you should be getting on your current plan.

If you've already opened the modem (I.e. you can't just return it) then you may as well try connecting it directly to your PC with a CABLE and run a speed test to see if it does give any speed improvement vs plugging directly into the current router. If there is no improvement then there isn't really any point in investigating further.

As far as wireless being faster than wired. Ignore what Geek said there, in almost all cases, a wired connection will be faster and more reliable than a wireless one. Besides, your wireless access point/router is connected to the rest of your network with a wired connection! In particular, your current router can do up to 1000mbps over a wired connection but can only do up to 300mbps over wireless.In my own defense.
The modem/router that Comcast provides does 150 Mbps on local wireless. It does gigabit on local wired.
However, older Ethernet stops at 100 Mbps. My old wired stuff does not do over 100 Mbps, so I get high transfer speed if I use the wireless instead. My wireless adapters are newer.

Important. Speed in NOT cumulative. You do not increase speed by putting devices in a daisy chain. Adding a gigabit router to a 50 Mbps modem does not do anything to increase internet speed.


About Comcast:
Quote

Comcast today announced it is increasing the speed of its popular Blast! tier by almost 50 percent to 150 Mbps (formerly 105 Mbps) and introducing a new Performance Pro speed tier of 75 Mbps.Jul 7, 2015

So I'm having a problem that is only affecting my computer and no other computer in my network, I cannot exactly pinpoint when this problem started it has been going on for about 2 months now, and it was somewhere in between the time when i did a fresh install of windows 10 and installed sql server (but I have removed everything to do with SQL a few days ago).

In the event log i always get this exact same warning:

Log Name: System
Source: e1iexpress
Date: 11/5/2016 6:24:23 AM
Event ID: 27
Task Category: None
Level: Warning
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Description:
Intel(R) Ethernet Connection I217-V
Network link is disconnected.

This usually happens 1-2 times a day, around the same times or close to the same time each day as you can see here:

Log Name: System
Source: e1iexpress
Date: 11/5/2016 8:23:34 PM
Event ID: 27
Task Category: None
Level: Warning
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Description:
Intel(R) Ethernet Connection I217-V
Network link is disconnected.

I tried a fix that seems to be all around which is changing the lease time to a day but this did not help.

Modem: ARRIS DG1670A
PC Specs: i7-4790k, GTX 970, 16gb ram, Windows 10 ProHere is a quick answer.
Look at this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2748796/realtek-ethernet-lan-card-stopped-working-upgrade-windows.html
Which has multiple answers. Look at this one:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2748796/realtek-ethernet-lan-card-stopped-working-upgrade-windows.html#r16476344

The idea is that Windows 10 did the wrong driver. So you uninstall, let it find the RIGHT driver and restart. Read above link for details.

If that is not it, please come back here.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 05, 2016, 09:56:50 PM

Here is a quick answer.
Look at this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2748796/realtek-ethernet-lan-card-stopped-working-upgrade-windows.html
Which has multiple answers. Look at this one:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2748796/realtek-ethernet-lan-card-stopped-working-upgrade-windows.html#r16476344

The idea is that Windows 10 did the wrong driver. So you uninstall, let it find the right driver and restart. Read above link for details.

If that is not it, please come back here.

I might mention, the link I gave was about the Realtek driver problem.But the Intel thing you have also has some e kind of problem.
Here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1956326/intermittent-connection-loss-intel-i217-lan.html
However, the links I gave earlier sound more like your problem,even tho you don't has a Realtek NIC.
Here is MS to say what sounds like Windows 10 has driver blindness.
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-networking/windows-10-loads-the-wrong-driver-for-my-intel/b1027916-b946-4255-aed9-17708722d18b

Hi guys, FIRSTLY what methods would you take to remove personal information online so as to minimize the risk of identity theft.

Secondly do you know of any user friendly methods of SETTING up a VPN NETWORK in your own home that you can connect to when you're out and about in public PLACES using free public WIFI so as to protect yourself from man in the middle attacks?

Thanks.

I am connected to a ethernet cable and i have a orange light and a flashing yellow light but no connections are showing up and i cant get internet so idk what to do and i got banned from the chat from saying fml because it stands for a bad word lolI'm not sure what chat has to do with your problem, but okay.

Go to Control Panel, Network & Sharing CENTER. Does it show a connection? Let it troubleshoot from there and let's see what happens.it trouble shoots and says i need drivers but i dont know how to get drivers without internet because i need drivers use usb to get drivers to get internet to use usb its a cycle i cant useFirst of all, PLEASE use PUNCTUATION. Your posts are difficult to understand and you want to make it as easy as possible for us to help you.

Second, download the drivers on another SYSTEM, COPY them to a usb drive or cd drive, and then copy them to your system and install.

Hello,please help me,what do i need to have internet cafe, how it must be configured to have 15 computers in cafe with internet access,what equipment i need to build network for internet cafe?thank youYou need a WIRELESS CONNECTION to a internet provider. Other than that I need more information. What are you going to try to SETUP? Is this a store that you are trying to add this service to it?

Quote from: SPOILER on October 27, 2016, 02:03:35 PM

You need a wireless connection to a internet provider.

I have been experiencing slow SPEED from LAST one week with Optus; it started with the internet going down with some sort of outage occurring, but was fixed in few hours. However, it’s since that time that the speed has taken a hit badly! I can use stuff like Skype and Imo easily, but when I try browsing it takes ages to load some sites. I have contacted the ISP, but was told by employee that they have passed the issue to some other department as they can’t do anything. Now, I am put on hold for nearly 15-20 minutes every time which really sucks! So, is anyone having similar issue with them?
First of all, did you check the setting if there is any CHANGE you made? Also, did you try resetting the Wifi/Modem? I believe that might just solve the issue for you. I am not exactly surprised with the reply, as they are well known for such ordinary service. It’s strange what other department they meant by? As far I know, it’s only support department that should handle the issue and that’s what you talk with when you call them. Anyhow, I think you should check Internet Outages community with LOCATING your area if someone having similar trouble. I am still not over the reply they gave you. It’s truly mind shuttering!

https://www.internetoutages.com.au/optus

I work for a small/medium sized company that has about 150 employees. Part of my duties is to offer low level (in-house) IT support, fixing software issues, building/upgrading PC's, installing small office networks, etc. We are using a cloud based server which is fairly reasonably priced for our file sharing, the amount of STORAGE we USE equates to less than 300GB of files. Unfortunately, we are at 50 users for our cloud based system. If/when we switch over to the more than 50 users mark, we jump into a substantially higher price bracket ($8K+ annually). This is several thousand dollars more than what we're paying now.

I am wondering if there's a feasible on-site server alternative that will cost less than $8,000 a year, that would be easy enough for me to manage. I know that cloud based server companies offer a great amount of flexibility and features, I've enjoyed them immensely. As far as maintaining a server, I don't have a lot of experience in that realm, however I believe that I would be able to get educated on it and perform just well. I would even look into taking some classes at the local college and from the manufacturers. If I can save the company money and add value to my position, it'll be a win for both me and the company.

Please give me some ideas on maybe some NAS devices or server systems and software that would be decent combinations. Thanks.Times have changed. A few years back a dedicated server was the way to go. But new technologies have changed the rules.
Quote

Cloud servers can be configured to provide a similar level of performance, security and control of a dedicated server, but instead of being hosted on physical hardware that's solely dedicated to you they reside on a shared “virtualised” environment managed by your cloud hosting provider, meaning that you benefit from ...

Client/Server computing is NOT any old distributed computing. This is a case of over-generalization, when a term is confused with a broader subject. In fact, client/server may be used in non-distributed computing, but most of the applications of client/server are indeed distributed. At the application layer in distributed computing, the “business-aware” components are transferring business-related information between processes that may or may not reside on the same computer. In a well-designed distribution computing system, the information seems to be transmitted directly. However, the application layer components don’t really send the information directly. Instead, they rely upon lower level components to package the information appropriately and to broadcast the information through the local area network (LAN). The lower levels provide the “communication transparency” that makes it seem like the business-aware components are in direct contact with one another. The application layer components are not concerned with how the lower levels perform the task, as long as it is done transparently. Distributed computing could be ACCOMPLISHED without client/server (but the modern practice is indeed to use C/S).

I am using Linux.

Is it possible to MODIFY Ethernet/WiFi so only certain data packets can be uploaded...?

Let's say that a computer gets hacked via web browser, but the WiFi/Ethernet only allows certain data packets to be uploaded.

You can't predict what data might get downloaded to your computer, so I don't try to protect against that.

If hackers want to steal your data, though, they need to upload it somehow.

So for uploads... there should be some kind of a process which cannot be terminated... and this process would filter all data uploaded to make sure it is marked in a certain way... THUS, you know that this is your data, because only YOU know how to mark it.. The hacker wouldn't know how to mark the data they are uploading, and thus, it would get rejected and never get uploaded in the first place.

Perhaps each data packet has a certain code SENT before it, or ATTACHED to it.

These codes don't need to be uploaded over the web, but just checked by this filter software, before being sent off to the WiFI/Ethernet driver to be uploaded.

Or perhaps this would be implemented by editing the WiFi/Ethernet driver itself.

I don't know precisely how to implement it... but I hope you understand what I'm asking for here.

Heya, I have a Modem which is now works as a Router & a Modem.
I have a static IP, My ISP pulls up an IP address for my Modem MAC Address from my Internet infrastructure company everytime I START my modem, now I am planning to do such thing:
I am planning to buy a TP Link Router, and call my IIC and tell them to turn the modem to an Invisible modem, so I can work free with my new TP Link, my question is, can I fake my Router's MAC Address in order to actually get a dynamic IP ?It may be possible, but it may also be against your ISP's terms of service. You need to CHECK with them.
I doubt the OP is being honest.
When THEE is a reason, the ISP will allow you to alter the MAC of a PC youth PC or the router. This is a common practice. Alternatively your ISP can change there connection to use another MAC to identify your equipment.

If the ISP is not willing to help, please provide some more INFORMATION. Otherwise, your REQUEST looks like an attempt to violate the terms of service.

I have a Nokia IP330 firewall

When it BOOTS it only displays 'AT' at the command line, recurring every 10 seconds or so. There is no option to type anything.

I want to reset it and remove PASSWORDS etc

Any help?

Hi all, I have recently shifted and have signup with Optus, it took a while for them to provide me the connection, but finally I got it. Now, it’s been just few week and I am already facing all sort of issues.

First, I wasn’t GETTING any speed and it took few days for them to sort out the ISSUE and then my ping started breaking then they again took forever to fix that. Now, it’s within few weeks, I am facing issue 3rd time.

I am fed up with all this, I am trying to browse but it won’t work! Torrent downloads worked, but nothing else! I am fed up waiting for them, can anyone guide me something? PLEASE!Stop doing torrents UNLESS you want to have problems.
When you torrent, other people can use your bandwidth.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 29, 2016, 06:15:59 PM

Stop doing torrents unless you want to have problems.
When you torrent, other people can use your bandwidth.

How may devices are connected to the network?

Hello,
When I open Windows Live Mail I can see my mail but for some reason they have stopped downloading since yesterday. I get an error message Ox8DEOOOO5 whatever that means. The STRANGE thing is that I can view my up to date mail no problem on my phone.

With all my attempts to solve the problem, now when I open mail I get a dial-up box that I cant get rid of. I have BROADBAND which is working fine.
I hope I have described this properly and that it makes SENCE. What version of windows?MS announced awhile back that Windows Live Mail would no longer be able to get mail from outlook.com (outlook.com no longer supports the protocol WLM uses (delta sync) to retrieve the mail). You can change to a different mail client such as Outlook or Thunderbird or you can reconfigure the mail settings in WLM to use IMAP or POP3. I personally SWITCHED to Thunderbird.I'm using Windows xp. I have been reading suggestions and this is what I've done so far. I went into www.outlook.com went into options, POP and IMAP, clicked yes to Let devices and apps use POP but I didnt allow them to delete messages. I saved my changes and hit the back arrow. After enabling POP3 I opened Windows Live Mail, created a new account for my old email address and checked the box that said Manually config server settings. For incoming server info I selected POP-mail.outlook.com, Port 995, SSL.
For Outing server smtp-mail.outlook.com, Port 25, TLS.

After doing all this I get a message on my screen saying ' We were unable to reach your e mail provider. Please check your server settings or try again later'.

Strollin you mentioned that outlook.com no longer supports the protocol WLM uses (delta sync) to retrieve the mail). Is that what is wrong I wonder. If I change to Thunderbird can I keep my currant e mail address?Windows XP is no longer supported by Microsoft. I think you may need to access your email web browser instead of using a email client (program such as Windows Live Mail, Thunderbird, etc.).

Windows Live Mail is bundled as part of Windows Essentials. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/11526/windows-essentials-2012-system-requirements says the operating system must be Windows 7 or Windows 8 or Windows Server 2008 R2. In other words, Windows XP is not listed as an OS meeting system requirements. So, your claim that have WLM installed on Win XP seems odd. Quote

POP-mail.outlook.com

Windows XP is no longer supported by Microsoft. I think you may need to access your email web browser instead of using a email client (program such as Windows Live Mail, Thunderbird, etc.).

It SEEMS to have been FIXED!

THANK you EVERYONE for the HELP!

Okei so my INTERNET used to be really fast about two months ago or something like that, but lately it has been extremely unstable and slow. Its equally slow in every part of my house so its not the signals. We have had an EXPERT here that changed some cables because they were old, and that made the internet better for like 2 days before it went back to being bad again. I have been using http://www.speedtest.net/ and it tells me that my download speed is about 4 mbits and my uploadspeed is around 25. Please help me, im tired of lagging and dcing.

Where are your?
What are you paying?
What did your ISP say?
How many devices on your local network?
Have you TRIED to use only one device with Ethernet direct from the router?
Have you tried other speed tests?

With a speedtest.net result you're only sending tiny packets of data from one system to another. When you download a game from Steam etc. you're downloading a whole game (lots of bandwidth needed) from the source. The download speed can depend on the source and many other factors, not just your own download speed. Also the internet provider is mentioning for instance that you'll get CERTAIN MB speed, in reality you won't. That's why they mention 'upto xMB' so this way they can get away with PROVIDING much less. Try changing your service provider or upgrade t a different package. In some places in the USA you can get a sort=term Internet connection.
However, be prepared to pay about $80 for one month of broadband service.

I have a couple of queries about home WiFi and networks that i need answering.

The first is about other peoples wifi and hotspots and how they can affect your home wifi. When any of my wifi enabled devices scans for availabel networks it naturaly PICKS up neighbouring secured networks. This i am used to and accept, but recently i have been picking up a local hotspot (BT Openzone) that seems to have such a strong signal that at times it seems to overpower my home wifi and devices want to connect to it rather than my own secure network! This is not only annoying but concerning from a security point of veiw (and potentialy expensive at £5 per hour!).

Anything i can do to stop this happening? Would changing channels on the router help and if so which? What channels are best avoided re: hotspots?

My second query is about WiFi REPEATERS/extenders. My main router is located in an upstairs room where i have my main desktop PC so that the desktop has a LAN connection. WiFi devices are mostly used in downstairs rooms or the garden and there are a few 'blindspots' where the signal isnt as good.

I decided to try and fix this with an inexpensive extender device, which seems to work well but i cant tell how much it is helping or even if i have it in the right place. i have located it were i think it will provide the best coverage, but i cant be sure. This will have to be trial and error i know but i want to ask if i a repeater/extender is the best way of improving my wifi coverage through the house.

I realise now that these devices dont boost the signal only stretch it to new locations. The issue might be the router itself which isnt in a central location, i am wondering whether if it was the coverage would be better, without the need for an extender. The only problem there would be the Desktop PC, which doesnt have wifi and needs a LAN connection to the internet.

Any thoughts?You should be able to tell your machine to either forget or to not automatically connect to the BT Openzone network - Changing the channel won't stop your PC connecting to it if it has the network remembered. Don't worry about the COST, it won't just magically charge you if you connect, you have to actually enter payment details and sign up for an account to use it.

Repeaters are generally fine although I would generally recommend having it wired into your upstairs router if it is at all possible to run a cable to a location downstairs. As you've SAID, it's pretty much a case of trial and error. Also make sure that the channel your extender is broadcasting on is different from your upstairs router. If you have an Android phone then there's a free app called "WiFi ANALYSER" that shows signal strength of all nearby networks along with what channel they are on which is helpful for finding what channel is most quiet and how the signal strength changes as you move around. There should be similar apps for iOS and Windows phones. Another mistake I see a lot of people doing with repeaters is giving it a different name from the main network - You are much better off giving the repeater the same name (SSID) and key as the main network, that way your device will connect to whatever device has a stronger signal rather than having to pick whether you want to connect to the repeater or the main router on each device - Just makes it a lot neater.

You could also consider moving the router to a more central location then either run an ethernet cable or use some sort of powerline network device to deliver a wired connection to the desktop PC.

My family has been talking about this.
How much bandwidth do we need.
At any time there may be two of use using the Internet. We would rather have a 4G data plan rather than a cable connection.

This article has some points that are not too clear.
How much broadband usage do I really need?
Quote

According to Ofcom's Communications Markets Report 2016, the average household spends almost 82 hours online at home each month, WHETHER using their computer, smart TV or a mobile device.

The problem with this approach is that it appears accurate, but doesn't take into account MIXED use, or that different sites and apps can make very different data demands for similar activities.

My family has been talking about this.
How much bandwidth do we need.
At any time there may be two of use using the Internet. We would rather have a 4G data plan rather than a cable connection.

Hi,

How can I prevent hackers from packet sniffing into my connection?To get a real answer to your question, you must provide more detail.
In what part of the world do you live?
- In some regions we can not provide help.
What kind of network do your have?
What security tools do you use?
Why do you think somebody is GETTING into your network?
Quote

A packet analyzer (also known as a network analyzer, protocol analyzer or packet sniffer—or, for particular types of networks, an Ethernet sniffer or wireless sniffer) is a computer program or piece of computer hardware that can intercept and log traffic that passes over a digital network or part of a network.

I use a paid application to access my client's remote computer to do my tasks. And time tracking software to log my work hours. Unfortunately I am not sure the data passing through these applications are encrypted. Avast has a VPN built in, but apparently it does not stop my neighbors from accessing my computer activity.

I cannot be sure but it is possible they paid off one of the employees of my ISP. But if the data is encrypted from my computer, would they just see the data flow, or would they be able to "read" the data?

I know they can see my computer activity because they make certain sounds to alert those nearby.

Van Eck phreaking is a form of eavesdropping in which special equipment is used to pick up side-band electromagnetic emissions from electronics devices that correlate to hidden signals or data for the purpose of recreating these signals or data in order to spy on the electronic device. Side-band electromagnetic radiation emissions are present in and, with the proper equipment, can be captured from keyboards, computer displays, printers, and other electronic devices.

Not to sure what happened but, I have a build that is seeing packets coming back an going out but, its not connected online. I have the Ethernet cable connected to a switch an then to a ap that connects to the main dsl Modem. I can see an connect to other units that are on the same network.Look at IPCONFIG/ALL and see if your GATEWAY connection is correct as well as can you ping outbound to www.google.com as well as if all else fails start with a clean build vs one that likely got hit with an infection. Some nasty malware use to cripple internet by hitting the HOSTS file etc. Shut off FIREWALL on local system and see if firewall is cause too.

btw ... answering this now, but depending on what direction this goes I might GO silent as per your track record of posts here. I'm not CLEAR on your problem.

Are you saying "Why are packets being sent when I'm not even online?"

Then you say "it's connected to a switch to an AP to a modem" - so that's why you are seeing packets moving around, as all those DEVICES 'poll' each other.not sure what happened :/ it was working fine earlier when I reinstalled the driver an before an update now its not working again all together. Something about issues with the DNS

Hello,

I have an unknown computer that just showed up on Windows Explorer under the Network icon in the left hand window pane. The name of it is CHALIE.

I'm worried that someone has gained access to my network and thus access to my computers on it, and not sure what to do about it.

Not sure what other info to give here. I have 2 computers on the network both using windows 10. When I click on the CHALIE icon a window opens TITLED Windows Security requesting I enter my network credentials.

What are the names of your two computers? Right-click the start menu and CHOOSE "System" and "Computer Name" should appear in the second section.One is named "DESKTOP" and the 2nd computer is named "HPtouchlaptop"

I shut both computers down overnite. This morning when I turned them on "CHALIE" was not listed. But still concerned that if someone hacked into my network they could access it again.

Yesterday the list of computers listed under the network icon in left window pane of windows explorer on DESKTOP computer was:
DESKTOP
HPTOUCHLAPTOP
CHALIE

And list of computers under network on HPTOUCHLAPTOP was:
HPTOUCHLAPTOP
CHALIE

Today the list for DESKTOP is:
DESKTOP
HPTOUCHLAPTOP
WDMYCLOUD (I do have a wdmycloud storage device)

Today on HPTOUCHLAPTOP is:
HPTOUCHLAPTOP

I have not been able to get DESKTOP to show up under the network icon on my HPTOUCHLAPTOP since I setup my network and not sure why. Well CHALIE popped up back on my network listing again tonite. I disconnected my computers from the INTERNET as a safety precaution and turned on firewall, turned off all file sharing, and tried to change my password.

However I'm not able to change it? There is no password change option when I do a ctrl alt del. Did that change in windows 10? Also when I click on in the change password option in the settings/sign in option section, I get an error message saying something went wrong try again or select cancel to setup your device later.

Now I'm really getting worried. I HOPE someone can help me.If you use an MS account you change the password through that. That password has nothing to do with your network though.

"CHALIE" is the host name being give to your router by one of the DEVICES connected to it.

Do you have wifi? if so, change the password. You'd have to go to a particular URL to change that. most commonly it is 192.168.0.1 but it might be indicated on your router. A username and password login are needed for it which, too, should be indicated on the unit from when it was installed.

It is many times more likely that the "CHALIE" system is a device you've simply never considered. A smartphone, tablet, Smart TV, or even a cable box. You may have friends or relatives who visit and to whom you've given the password.





Thanks for the help.

Yes I have a wifi router and thought about it being one of my wifi devices ( I do have a fair amount of wifi devices connected). Just never seen that name before and have not added any new wifi devices in quite a while.

Would someone accessing my network via the internet as opposed to wifi show up as a host name in the network list?

What is the best way to track what device CHALIE is if it is connecting via wifi?Quote from: thammondwis on September 13, 2017, 10:07:52 PM

Would someone accessing my network via the internet as opposed to wifi show up as a host name in the network list?

What is the best way to track what device CHALIE is if it is connecting via wifi?

Ok thanks for that info. Just curios though why doesn't all my wifi devices than show up on the network list. Should any wifi device that is connected to the router show up on the network list?

So noticed internet degrading recently and decided to start investigating. Called ISP, No problems. Started doing network diagnostics on my dual band router and noticed regular latency to the internet so started running pings directly to the gateway and sure enough ping times go from 2-5ms for about 6 pings then spike anywhere from 50ms to 150 ms for a few pings. DIRECTLY to the gateway. So decided must be the 2.4Ghz spectrum throwing interference switch to the 5Ghz spectrum. same problem. Think MAYBE traffic dumping so disconnect modem and connect directly to router to RUN pings only to router. Same thing. So i went and bought a new router/modem combo cause obviously the old equipment is messed up!!!! NOPE!!!! same exact problem with new router. So i ran a spectrum analysis and it did look dirty tried a few different channels on the 2.4Ghz spectrum and the 5Ghz spectrum nothing worked on either. I AM COMPLETELY STUMPED. mainly because of how consistent the drops HAPPEN. I ve even tried moving ONE of the routers literally into my lap to do network diagnostics and still same thing. SOMEONE HELPPPPP!!!!

We friends are using a 5-device limited wifi connection (unlimited internet). I was wondering if I connect a Repeater as ONE device and use to run wifi in other devices, can the authority BLOCK the repeater? Is there a WAY to run the repeater without getting caught, specially if the MAC ADDRESS of the repeater is not identified?

I want to change my wifi dns for a new server on a game. Will doing this affect my wifi, and can I change it back again?yes, you can always change it back at any time.


just checking.... do you mean DNS or IP address?
and what is it you are trying to achieve?


your DNS address is your 'gateway' to the internet (often called your gateway address) so changing it will effect things but it depends on what it is being changed to and why.
think of it as, IP addresses are for LAN's (from the modem looking inwards at your PC's) and DNS's are for WAN's (from the modem looking outwards to the world).Hebe is a link to a sue taut MAY be helpful.

Best DNS Servers (Free and Public)

He claims these free services might be better that what the provider gives you.You can check it out.
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Depending upon distance between your place and DNS server, there will be speed improvements
If your ISPs DNS servers are not that reliable, using an alternate DNS server will improve stability
If you are using an old Operating System with no security updates, using a third-party DNS will be protection from PHISHING attacks
And, yes, you can get rid of geography-based CONTENT restrictions and web censorship

For some reason I can't get my laptop to recognize my desktop or vice versa. Tried Homegroup but it doesn't work. Have to use my old password on the laptop for the same account. Using Windows 10, both HP computers. What am I missing?in case you haven't, try this....

in CONTROL Panel (change View By to icons), click Network and Sharing Centre > Change advanced sharing settings.
in all the sections, select Turn on network DISCOVERY, turn on file and printer sharing and in the All Networks section, Turn off password-protected sharing.
these settings can be fine tuned for your particular needs later, let's just get it working first.
click Save Changes.

repeat on other PC.

now in File Explorer, click Network in the left column.
that should show all your connected devices.
you should see whatever your laptop is called, and whatever your desktop is called.

drill down on the one you want to access and try to open a folder, if no success you may also have to setup file sharing permissions.
on that PC, right click the folder, Properties, Sharing, Share, use the DROP down menu to pick Everyone, Add, change Read to Read/Write, click Share.
again, repeat accordingly on each PC for whatever sort of access you need.

then, perhaps, your AV's firewall may need tweaking.

that should get you started. if successful you can fine tune the security settings if you need to, but in a Private, home use, network, there may not be a requirement to tighten things up too much.

Tried that. Still not working.what about temporarily disabling your AV software on both UNITS, particularly the firewall.
what is your AV?


and to confirm, all those steps mentioned, they've all be tried, on both PC's?


get the IP addresses of both PC's (from IPCONFIG at a command prompt).
can your PING the other PC's IP address?

I'm trying to setup a wifi printer in a location that's in a different room from the router. Normally I would just run a cat 5 from router to printer but this is not an option here. What would be the easiest way to GET a cat 5 connection to this printer so I can print wireless from my tablet?
Thank You
John If the printer itself is WiFi capable, you are usually able to connect it to your normal WiFi network (often on the display on the front of the printer). You should then be able to print from any device connected to your normal WiFi network.what is your tablet OS?
and what is the make/model of the printer?


to setup the printer wirelessly, it needs only to be within range of the router.
and as Cameron states, you set it up from the LCD screen, plugging in the right password for your wifi network.


another option to consider, if it's only the tablet you need to print from wirelessly, the printer MAY have it's own wifi direct network you could use to send prints straight from your tablet.I tried to set it up from the lcd screen on the printer but it couldn't FIND the router even though it was really close to it. I did alot more digging on the Samsung support site which directed me to set it up from the install cd but they lost it. After alot more searching on the Samsung site, I finally found the correct install download. What a pain. Thanks for your feedback.

John Many printers makes recently have wireless built into the printer. He will have to look at the manual to find out. Or he could tell us the model of the printer.

Le's say he really likes the printer and the printer just does not have a wireless. Or maybe it got broke. In that case, he will need an external thing to make the printer wireless.

The thing he wants is NOT a AP device. It must be a client device.
HOWEVER , a few low-cost little things can be made to go either way.
I just now found this on eBay. It is about $15 SHIPS free in USA.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]The printer is only 1 year old but the man that bought it died recently and no one knew where he put the user manual and install cd. I finally found what I needed but it was alot more trouble then it should have been. It works like a charm now.

Thanks
JohnGood! Glad to hear you got it fixed.

The WEBSITE sold the free INTERNET PORTABLE wireless Hotspot (Freedompop.com) and say that get free 500mb data every month. I have the following questions as I call their support but cannot speak to a live person. Kindly pls advise and TKS a lot

(1) When finish USING the 500mb data, can I still use their regular WiFi surfing internet (e.g. Email or listen the Radio website). If there is no other WiFi in the area.

(2) When listening the Radio website or watching YouTube with sound, are they using the mobile data.
If so, around how many MB per minute will beused ?

Thank you,
John


You can add an app that will keep track of how much data usage you have consumed. My smartphone has one for my 3G connection so I can keep track of how much i have used. Additionally I have a tracphone and they have an app that allows me to sync up with their service to see how much data I have left. Myself I get by on 180mb of data every 90 days. I shut off my mobile internet connection and only enable it when i need it. The apps that constantly WANT to update will drain away your data on a limited plan.

Any time your connected to your wireless hotspot it will trickle away at your 500mb allowance. No matter if the phone or tablet is being actively used or idle as apps update and eat up bandwidth.

I do all my updates from a free wifi from my own at home or from someone elses open wifi this way i can avoid wasting the limited data plan that i have, so when I need to use it remotely and connect to my 3G connection from away someones free wifi I still have bandwidth to use vs running out to early.

On my 180mb data plan with my smart phone on all the time when I first got it I ran out of data transfer after about 5 weeks and used very lightly for texting etc and no videos. App updates constantly updating weather etc drained it all away.

So my suggestion is to add an app that will keep track of usage, and shut off the service when not needed to avoid it draining away like a hole in a bucket. And make use of other peoples free open wifi for updates that can be 40mb in size etc which will eat at a limited plan heavily, but on open wifi its all free and wont eat at your plan.

Hi to all,
i would like to use a usb, connected to the routers usb and run a sricam camera programme to record on to the usb,
instead of the computer, that would mean i do not NEED the computer on day and night.. is this a possibillity or a hard drive connected to the router?? the usb is run on fat32 mvfs
what do you think!!
mick cheers There is usually a service and computer associated with the camera that handles the video stream to writing it to storage or camera is connected directly to a DVR.

Only way i could at all see this working is if your camera supports sending the video to a NAS or external hard drive directly. I have yet to find any unless your doing some sort of Video Camera mod/hack where your connected to SDCard connection and sending the SDCard COMMUNICATIONS over a network to another storage device such as a NAS that is acting like a virtual SDCard.

Most cameras are dumb DEVICES, they just capture video and pass it digitally to another device that can render the digital data BACK into video for humans to watch or to be written to storage by use of a DVR or Computer.More hardware needed.
http://digitallanding.com/how-to-connect-a-dvr-to-your-home-network/
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If you WANT to add tonight’s big game your digital video recorder’s to-do-list from the Internet and download shows to your DVR from your laptop, a friend’s DVR or an online video service, such as Amazon, then connect a DVR to your home network. Your DVR will be able to keep itself up-to-date without a telephone line, and you’ll still be able to watch shows that reflect your interests, at your own convenience.

my problem is ethernet unidentified network

"يتم الان اجراء التعريف " means "The DEFINITION is now being made"
but still, the CABLE is working on the other computer PLS help me
and


the wireless is working When you look in device manager is the network ADAPTER happy or does it have a warning in yellow or a red failure?

Are you sure you have the correct driver for the wired network adapter?

Was this system subject to a lightning strike or anything that could have damaged this NIC?

Recently I have been having difficulty getting a RELIABLE internet connection. I know it is not the network that I am on because I have tried connecting to wi-fi at several different locations (hotels, restaurants, etc) and always have a bad connection. I can watch VIDEOS just fine on youtube, but large downloads are really inconsistent going from about 5MBps to below .2MBps and doing this in waves and I have really bad lag spikes when I am playing online games.
It is definitely a problem with my computer and not the wi-fi that I am on. Currently I have a wired connection and the same thing is happening. I have tried updating drivers and running troubleshooter, but my computer doesn't seem to think there is a problem.
There is an attached screenshot of a ping thing that I did. I don't know how helpful that will be.
I am wondering if perhaps a part in my computer is damaged or if maybe I have a VIRUS that my anti-virus isn't detecting.
I have an ASUS X550VX and I had some problems with overheating in the past and I had to replace the RAM and hard drive

[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]can you use Speccy and publish your specs?
Speccy available here; https://www.piriform.com/speccy/download

on the assumption it's something running in the BACKGROUND (AV updates, MS updates, malware etc) boot the PC into Safe Mode and try those pings again.http://speccy.piriform.com/results/RGSEtvY3lQac6uoxHBXzcqW

I tried safe mode and there was no change.so your PING's from Safe Mode were also all over the place?

being in Safe Mode means we should be able to rule out a background process slowing you down.
(although I'd personally be removing all the tasks from Scheduler)

it's unlikely to be corruption but you can try doing sfc /scannow and chkdsk c: /r from an elevated command prompt to see if it helps.

also, your c:\ drive is getting full'ish, so another straw to clutch is space, in particular the pagefile.
try some maintenance, such as CCleaner (available here; https://www.piriform.com/ccleaner/builds), it can also help you turn off those Task Scheduler processes.It's working. I don't know what was wrong, the scan didn't finish, but it's working.so no more lags or unreliable internet?
dare I suggest it.... it may be early days to know either way just yet.

I have used word press for years and have moved content from one to another.
Now I can not move (upload) to a new web space I just got.
This has never happened before.
The server says my content in insecure and might have virus.
But I can FTP. But some word press transfer are not done with FTP. So I am stuck.

Specifically, I can not upload a XML file that has content from my other old site.

I have looked in the word press stuff and did not find a quick answer.





Can you download a exact copy of your website and then virus scan it to make sure that while at the web host it didnt receive any tag along scripts? If the host was hacked malicious code could have been added to your sites content. Its a FAR fetched idea that your host could have been hacked and malicious coded/script added to your content, but I have seen sites before that have had nasty scripts planted by hackers. I found them mostly when making OFFLINE copies of websites with httrack. I download all the guts of a specific site and then next scheduled virus scan a file is flagged as malicious and the site that I made an exact copy of for offline use had a bad script on it that likely wasnt put there by the webmaster of the website.

Are you moving from a free web host to another to where the free web host might have questionable in ethics with offshore immunity?

The site your trying to move it to might be detecting a real problem vs a false positive I feel. Otherwise if its a false positive figure out why and correct that problem.

About 10 years ago I hosted my own website with my own web server a Windows 2000 Professional computer with Apache installed and a software firewall, and an exploit in RealVNC allowed for a hacker to get in and add content to my web server to host their own stuff on my server. I killed that off as quickly as I found it. I didnt even look at the contents, when my internet connection got SLOW I went looking and saw tons of activity from my web server. When looking at the packets with wireshark on my other SYSTEM on same network, I saw odd traffic and when visiting my local web server to see what was going on i found all sorts of folders and files that I did not dare open and killed the power switch and wiped the system clean as for I had an image of my web server and my websites most recent version was on my other computer to bring my web server back up and running and disable RealVNC to get rid of that exploit, but to later use that exploit as a honeypot to bait hackers when i no longer used this system as a web server. I switched from Windows 2000 Professional to Fedora Core 5 Linux for my web server which was more secure. Then shut off my website when i no longer had the satisfaction of running it.Thanks Dave, I never thought that there might be a hacker going puffy-back on my uploads. I will check that out.
Before I have always used the WordPress In port and Export plugin and never had any issues. I will try uploaded using another method and then check to see if my content was hacked.
I did a ticket with the host and have not heard from them.

Yes, it is a free work press install, but I did pay for the web space. The host does not offer support for word press. So I have to do the troubleshooting myself.

My website is being blocked. When trying to access from my pc I get The DNS server might be having problems. Error Code: INET_E_RESOURCE_NOT_FOUND. All other websites WORK great.

I can access the site from other devices on my home network, I can access it from work as well. The associated email address is also not working from my pc (I can get emails on my phone). I have contacted my isp and they say it is nothing on their end. I have tried different DNS servers as well. I cannot ping the address as it times out. This happens with MS Edge, Internet Explorer, Chrome and Firefox. I have disabled the firewall - no luck. I have reset the router, no luck. I have disconnected the router and connected directly to the cable modem, no luck. I have tried ip release / renew, no luck.

I am running out of ideas. Any suggestions?

Thank you

Dan
Not sure why you thought your ISP was blocking when all over devices worked fine from same internet connection. But its definitely something specific to just that computer. I'd start by backing up your important data to cloud storage or external MEDIA and then restore the computer back to factory from recovery media or perform a clean installation. The last time I saw strange stuff like your having it was due to a system that had been hit by a virus before and the system was operational but its guts were swiss cheese. I'd perform a clean build of that system and the problem should go away. Only other way I can think of it not going away would be if the OS was one that was not legal and CRACKED as for cracked OS's GENERALLY have oddities with their behavior.What's the link of your website ?www.manufacturingoptions.com

What is the absolute cheapest way to get a Raspberry Pi-style board, which has WIFI, and the ability to provide constant power using solar or other renewable means?

Or even just a really long-lasting battery rather than even renewable energy?

I am looking for links to products that I can buy

1. Board

2. WiFi

3. Power source

By the way, the WiFi chip must have the ability to run a relay... i.e. to be used to receive WiFi from a hotspot, and also to be used as a hotspot itself at the same time.

The device needs to do very little other than receive a WiFi connection and then repeat it in a relay-style, i.e. create a mobile hotspot.although not able to answer your question, reading your post made me think of a similar issue I was having with poor radio reception.

long story short, I was not able to acquire a signal, boost it and RETRANSMIT it, laws about then being CLASSED as a broadcaster or such and I would need a government license to do so.
so just check your state/country laws of doing what you are after first.Presently Solar power costs too much. And if the device has to run at night, you have to have a rechargeable battery.
You could use a 6 volt motorcycle battery. Use a power rectifier to drop the voltage to about 5.4 volts. A 5 amp hour battery cell is about $7 or less.
The Pi takes about 1/3 amp, so you could have MAYBE 15 hoers before you have to RECHARGE the battery.
If you still want solar, you have to do better hand 1/3 amp, more like almost 1 amp at 6 volts. Because you have to charge the battery, run the PI and have some overhead because the Sun is only powerful for a few hours. So the solar panels might cost you more that the Pi. Maybe 415 to $20.

Have you already seen this?
Setting up a Raspberry Pi as a WiFi access pointWhat is your full plan for the device? How many users is it going to serve? Are you trying to create some sort of point to point network between two buildings?

Hey everyone,
So I am recently having this weird problem. I have both PC, laptop and a few phones. My PC is connected to the internet via ethernet cable and on all the other devices I'm using Wi-Fi. One day, like a week ago, all the devices connected through Wi-Fi disconnected and wouldn't reconnect for some reason, there was an error or something. I completely reseted my router to fabric settings and CONFIGURED it again.
Since then everything was fine except for the fact that when I turn on the laptop it's like taking up all the internet speed. Internet on PC and the phones works in like 10% efficiency, just barely loading any sites or anything. The download is usually like 300 KB/s (I live in a place where internet is pretty bad) but when the laptop is turned on, not even downloading or browsing the internet (just turned on), on all the other devices it goes to like 20-30 KB/s. Anybody knows what could be the reason? Cause I have never experienced anything similiar. Sorry for my english in advance, I'm not a NATIVE speaker.If your laptop is Windows 10 then I experience the same issue whenever any of the PC's in the house do a Win10 update.
Like you, our internet in the area is crap and normal surfing (emails, web browsing etc) is fine when any or all PC's are on and active.
But if even one PC starts an update process then web speeds simply go so close to zero that it become impossible to do anything web related.
I go around to all the PC's, FIND the culprit doing updates, turn it off, wait about one minute, and the other PC's go back to normal.

If you check your laptop, (Start, Settings, Update and SECURITY), what is the Update Status?

You may have to leave the laptop on overnight just to see if that allows it to 'do its thing' and get over this hump. (jeez, if I had a dollar for every time I've had to leave PC's on overnight!!!)Whoops, I mean that was one of the first things to check. I should have known. I'm not that bad with computers. You were right, THANK you. When the update is done I'm gonna let you know if the problem is solved cause there were Win updates in the past and it has never been as bad as that.no worries.
and a belated welcome to the forum.

I try to setup my laptop as a hotspot. The setup process was all ok, but when I try to connect my phone to the hotspot connection, it can detect it but it says the connection is not connected to the internet, while in fact it is. You said:
"Adhoc Hotspot Not Working"
Have you ever had it WORK? Have you done this before?
Where are you at when you try this?
Why did you call it 'Adhoc'?
How does the laptop connect to the Internet?
Does the phone NORMALLY work good on Wi-Fi?

Exactly which 'hot spot' method are you using?





https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/21943/share-an-internet-connection-between-wireless-machines-with-an-ad-hoc-network-in-windows-7/

I've done this on another network and laptop before and it worked that time.I don't think that works if you are using the WiFi to connect the laptop to the Internet. It needs to have an Ethernet connection (or a second wireless card) for that to work.I think BC is right. The link given does not make clear if it is possible to repeat or relay from a witless to another wireless.

But if both machines are wireless, why can't the other machine get into the wireless?

Also, the 'Ad-Hoc' protocol is not universal. Some ROUTERS may not allow it.
You may want to wireless bridge connection instead of 'Ad-Hoc' connection.

A wireless bridge or extender is used when the other machine is too far away to pick up the wireless signal.

You might want to try a wireless relay or repeater. This is a gadget apart from your PC that repeats a wireless signal. It has some limits, mostly speed. LET me KNOW if you need more info on Wi-Fi Repeater.

Here is another link. This method might work. I have not tried it.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4027762/windows-use-your-pc-as-a-mobile-hotspot

That brief article says you must be using cellular to do a hot spot.The laptop has to be connected to the internet via LAN cable, so that the wireless adapter can be used to provide hotspot function. It should work, and I had got it worked before, just different laptop and network. Not sure why it doesn't work this time.

Meanwhile, I had tried both OSToto Hotspot and Connectify Hotspot 2017, both giving me errors that their technical support can't solve. My guess is the wireless card in the laptop lacks that feature.
f you ned a small USB hot spot thing, they sell them on eBay.
They come with a drive that works or Windows will provide a suitable driver.
Here is one for $10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Verizon-Wireless-UM150-Black-USB-Mobile-Wireless-Hotspot-Broadband-Device-/372017983607?hash=item569dfff077:g:yBcAAOSwuxpZb8G5
Another:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-3G-WiFi-Wlan-Hotspot-AP-Client-150Mbps-RJ45-USB-Wireless-Router-J3C2-/263034002841?epid=581269434&hash=item3d3e0c5d99:g:fKoAAOSwSzRZPsff
For the price, it might be worth a try.
Some of the devices I got off of eBay work and a few don't.

Hi everyone,

I want to set up a hard drive that's accessed wirelessly while being able to restrict who can access it on the network as well as have protection if it's stolen. I'm aware of two options: using a external drive with built in wifi or connecting an external drive into a router. I have a usb drive atm so I prefer to install it to a router. What I don't understand well is security options. I have a decent idea of what encryption is and other method, which I don't understand it's mechanism well, is just some type of password without encryption. I understand encryption requires a password even if it was plugged into a new computer--unlike if I were the plug in a drive with a windows password into a new computer (it'd be easy to access those files). Ideally I'd like the drive to just not be able to be accessed without a password if moved to another computer. Is that possible without encryption?

So I want some type of password protection that can't be accessed if stolen or moved--ideally without having encryption. I'm not sure if protection like that is possible by just editing security properties through windows? That seems like it would be the easiest solution, but then I wonder if the security would work if the drive was moved to another computer. I have a feeling that might work! I haven't tested it because as of last week I don't have a computer. What makes my future network more complicated is I want my new future windows computer and a chromebook that's in the mail atm to both be able to access the wifi drive. Setting it up as NTFS should give me access to both drives without security, but what encryption software or other security software would work for using both OS's? I understand windows has bitlocker, but I doubt that would work with chrome os. Maybe there's software that works with both OS's?

Thanks for reading!

The pc will be windows 10 with some type of i5 or i7 and overall good specs
The chromebook is the Acer R13 with a MediaTek 2.10 GHz ARMFrom dictation, there may be some typos here.

Here is a general answer to your question. It looks like you are asking three questions at once. So I'll give three answers.

1. Windows may or may not require a password when you log into the Windows-based computer. The password does not guarantee that the files on the computer are secure. The password only prevents somebody from easily entering your computer while you are out to lunch.

2. Many websites do not require any kind of security features for most kinds of browsing experiences you are likely to enjoy. However, whenever a website REQUESTS information from you, such this a credit CARD number, a secure connection should be established. Normally your browser will inform you when there is a secure connection in progress. It is very difficult for anybody to ease drop on a secure connection because all the DATA is scrambled according to an encryption key that is known only by your computer and the secure server that you are connected to.

3. Now about Wi-Fi. NOWADAYS Wi-Fi connections require a password and also there is some type of encryption method. This prevents anybody from ease dropping on the wireless transmission. However, this does not guarantee that the transmission is secure over the Internet, it only secures the wireless connection.

Now about the problem you have. You need to check your router's manual to see if the router has any way to secure password protection of the USB port. If not, you're going to have to implement some kind of password protection on the hard drive that is connected to the USB port of the router. Sorry I don't have a quick answer for you as I have never attempted to do that sort of thing. However, here is an alternative idea.

If the amount of data you want to share with other people is moderate and you don't want to leave your equipment turned on day and night you may consider a cloud service. In BRIEF, a cloud service is a file sharing service that's on 24 seven and requires a password to access. It works even when your computer is off-line and your router is off-line.
The cloud services actually somewhere on some other server, maybe even in a different country. The services password protected and the people you want to access the cloud service will have to have the password that you provide. Some cloud services offer free file sharing up to about 10 GB.
If you are interested in the free cloud service, you can just check it with your search engine and use the expression" free cloud service".

That's the best I can do for you.
just to throw another option into the mix....

what about a NAS (Network Attached Storage) device.
for example, I have a 2 disk bay Netgear NAS, ethernet to the modem/router hence it can be accessed via any device that has access (cabled or wireless) to my network.

although not unique to the Netgear units, you can also setup permissions for each folder, with or without encryption, the unit can also be accessed over HTTPS, so remotely as well.

how does that sort of solution fit in with your needs?Thanks Geek-9pm. If this is too complicated I will just use a cloud for important files like you suggest and the usb drive for unimportant ones.

Sorry my question may have been confusing. What I really want is to connect to a wifi usb hard drive (or something equalivant) with both a windows computer and a chromebook computer at the same time. I'm pretty sure I can do that with if I format the drive to be NTFS since both computers OS's support that file format. My main issue is that I would like both to be able to access the wifi type of hard drive with the drive having security. I'm pretty sure for one of the computers to access a drive with security it needs software that may not coexist with both OS's.

I haven't seen anyone talk about this online so I thought I'd ask! I figure lots of families have both pc and macs on the same network (which could have the same conflict), but wifi types of hard drives are fairly new so I'm not sure if people have that issue!
Mark that kind of system sounds like it would work well for me. Would both the chromebook and pc be able to use the drive with the encryption? If they can, I just want to know what software would do that.This might help:
http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNR3500LV1/WNR3500L_SM_11JUN2010.pdf
That router has a feature to let you put something into the USB port.

EDIT:My bad. That manual is the short version. The thing called ReadySHARE is documented in another manual, And even then, the documentation is lacking. You have to have a dynamic DNS service to make it work over the Internet.

A Dynamic DNS is seldom free and is something that I have never tried. It is much easier to just buy web space and FTP stuff to your web space. FTP requires a password and is secure. This is the common way people share stuff.

Or use a cloud service. There is at least one that lets you have 10 GB free.Just having access to files at home is okay with me. Maybe I'll just experiment. @anbry,
I'm only a Windows guy, try to actively limit my exposure to Macs, Androids or any other OS (too old to want to learn new tricks).
But, using by setup as an example, the Netgear NAS doesn't care (or know) anything about your OS, your machine just needs the right network protocols, if it can see network mapped drives, than it can see a NAS.
The Netgear ReadyNAS's, and I'm sure others are the same, handle all sorts of protocols.
I've even got my Apple TV and Samsung SmartTV sucking files off the NAS.
But the driving force initially in getting it was for secured, RAID backups.@mark. That sounds great. I have a WD passport ultra. I've used the security software with it by just plugging it into my last computer. If I set that hard drive to a capable router, do you think the original WD security software would work over the wifi and with a chromebook? I thought there may be a conflict because I think the software I used is a windows program.although I'm not completely knowledgeable on your WD, I have played with a WD MyBook before.
and over the web too, that is, remotely logging into it from home, and the WD lived at work.
so it had browser access, not needing platform specific software.
and WD had some sort of software I downloaded from their site that also allowed some sort of extra functionality (that was for Windows) but we are going back a few years now.

but basically, if you connect it to a router, I'm pretty sure you'll get access to it multiple ways - either home network, wirelessly.
and if said router was connected to a modem (or had web access somehow) you'd also have access through a browser and very like, remotely.

I connected VIA PrivatoriaVPN to US server and when I check it with iplocation.net it shows location in the US but when going to the main page of Yahoo it shows me the weather in Bavaria and says I logged in from Germany. I was TOLD to disable Geo location of my browser but I can not find where I can do it? Can SOMEBODY tell me where can I disable Geo location?what is your browser?

for firefox, SEE here; https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/geolocation/

Ever since they upgraded their Leased Modems with built in wifi to turn everyones homes into wifi hotspots, I have been getting phone calls informing me that I should upgrade my modem to tap into the faster internet experience. But it was all just marketing babble trying to get people to switch to their modems for a "faster experience". I knew that this was nonsense and ignored all the many phone calls and messages on my answering machine because I was getting my full speed of service and the Motorola Surfboard Broadband modem that I own to avoid a $6 a month lease fee was running full speed, and I am not cool with providing the equivalent of a WIFI Tower out of my home for others for free.

However yesterday, I just GOT in the mail a warning from Xfinity that on 8/8/2017 they will be throttling my service and then on 8/31/2017 they will kill my internet connection if I still have my obsolete personally owned motorola surfboard modem in use.

I am temped to wait for 8/8/2017 and see if this is just scare mail to get me to jump to leasing a modem of theirs, however if they throttle me heavily then it could kill off my telephone and make for some angry people. I got a good almost 7 years of use out of my older Motorola Surfboard Modem which cost me $53 at Newegg and saved myself $72 a year.. saving myself about $450, and I guess maybe if I just buy a newer version the phone calls and the scare mail from them will stop.

Problem I have is that online they have a list of supported modems, but I have no way of getting to the page because they have it hidden behind having to logon to their website. Its so stupid that they dont have this out in the open and require you to logon to their website to see the list of supported modems.

Was wondering if someone who also has xfinity could copy/paste the list of supported modems here so I can look through it to see which modem would be best. Looking on google there are some lists, but they arent from Xfinity and I dont want to buy a modem to then find out that the list was incorrect, so to have it copy/pasted from their website to here would be best I am thinking. I havent logged onto my xfinity account in years. I dont even use their e-mail service. As long as i pay the bill and the internet works all is golden, but I dont have ability to look at content they have beyond the logon. Years ago I use to logon and look to see how much data was downloaded and look at graphs etc, but since there isnt a download cap "yet", I havent paid attention to how much download/upload goes on.

They direct me to https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/ and there is a field for zip code and speed, but they aren't functional until logged on.

The zip code and speed I'm interested in is 05001 zip code and speed of 25mbps or less. I only have 7/1 now because they increased the cost to almost $91 a month for my 25/5 service and I can get by with 7/1 as a bare minimum for streaming and phone at a cost of $52 instead after taxes etc.Just a heads up that I no longer need help with this.

I upgraded my modem from Motorola Surfboard 5150U to a Motorola MB7420. I ended up going down to the Comcast/Xfinity location a town over and explained that my private modem was flagged obsolete and that I couldnt get to the INFORMATION page because I didnt know my logon credentials since I havent had a need to use their e-mail etc. The guy behind the counter was really cool about this. He said kind of under his breath yeah you can buy a $50 modem or pay $6 a month and lots of people are buying their own to save money. I then responded that owning my own I saved about $450 over the last 7 years. I said they really should go back to the $3 a month lease fee because at that cost it might be worth while to lease because for $36 a year it would be worth the cost of $3 a month to not have to worry about replacing a modem if struck by lightning or it dies for some other reason.

I got this modem here for $69.99 on sale and then I was offered a 2-year extended warranty for $7.99. So I did the quick math and decided sure. I am still saving money this way and for 2-years BestBuy will have to replace it if it dies for any reason. So $77.98 for 2 years guaranteed, whereas 2 years guaranteed from Comcast/Xfinity would be $144 at 24 months X $6.00 a month. So I save $66.02 and for every month after the 24th month I save an additional $6.00 a month.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/motorola-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-gray/5050001.p?skuId=5050001&extStoreId=&ref=212&loc=DICAT&ksid=6e412709-a31e-41e9-9153-7879a9c044e6&ksprof_id=3&ksaffcode=pg255266&ksdevice=c&lsft=ref:212,loc:2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9bXP8sG91QIVkDyBCh3ARgM8EAQYAiABEgI4ofD_BwE

The modem that the tech suggested to me originally was a $49.99 modem, but it didnt have as many channels and it bottlenecked at a lower speed. I figured it was best to spend just a little more in hopes that a higher bandwidth ceiling would MEAN I can stick with it a little longer than going as cheap as I can. Additionally I have trust in the Motorola Brand, and this other brand Arris I never heard of before which is this one here which is the exact model the cable company tech suggested: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/arris-surfboard-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-silver/7534146.p?skuId=7534146

He pretty much said that any DOCSIS 3.0 or higher Broadband Modem will work, most will have on them the Xfinity name etc to show that they support specific ISPs etc.

Sadly the local site for Comcast/Xfinity wasnt able to reset my password for my logon. I had to do this from home over the phone with tech support and have a computer handy to type in a security code to get to the screen to reset my password. But when I had the girl on the line helping me with this password reset, I also had her take the MAC address for the new modem and model number and when the telephone went dead, I knew that all I needed to do was swap over the modem, and then wait for them to flash it and then it go through a reboot, then turn my router on and then everything was back up and running again.

The nice thing also is that the girl at BestBuy who asked if I needed help and I was looking between the Motorola and Netgear Modems to decide which one to go with said you might find that you connect at a faster than advertised speed once you switch from your older DOCSIS 2.0 to DOCSIS 3.0 modem. She suggested the Motorola over the Netgear saying the Motorola was better which looking at the specs it was slightly better so it wasnt just a sales pitch to get me to spend more money. I thought it was uneducated info in the getting a faster speed than what my ISP advertises for my internet service. I figured it was a sales person who was pitching the line to make the sale, but surprisingly she was correct. My speed before modem upgrade was 7/1 and now its 12/2 mbps download/upload speed. So this made my day to get more bandwidth and not have to pay any more for my service to get that better bandwidth.

Now to decide if I am going to sell my old modem on ebay or not. There is a flood of them out there. I have 2 of them a Surfboard 5150 and a 5150U, one of them was a spare I picked up for free which works. But thinking it might be more of a headache if I did sell them to someone who doesnt know the difference between DOCSIS 2.0 and 3.0 and wants a refund when their ISP is only using 3.0 now etc. thinking they are probably pretty worthless and unable to be used together to form a COAX network bridge etc like copperlink modems. Not quite sure what hardware is needed to simulate a broadband connection to make a private broadband network bridge etc.


Here is the Netgear that I was comparing the Motorola to: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/6794125.p?skuId=6794125DaveLembke,
That was a very good post. Thanks. Many people need to know about that.

I have service for Xfinity. It is good, but there are few other choices in this area. I live in a suburb where AT&T has not updated their hard wire services. So the alternative is to go either cellular, very expensive, or TV cable.

Xfinity is of Comcast. Just type http://comcast.com and see Xfinity stuff.


Because my wife and I are on Social Security and are at the lower income level, we qualified for a very low-cost service from Xfinity. The modem is free.

While living here for the past 16 years I have used dial-up, DSL, TV cable and cellular Internet service.
Also, low-income people can get some free or cheap Internet service on the free cell phone program often called the "Obama Phone". (USA only.)

My tablet disconnects from the broadband ten or twelve times a day and I have to 'Renew Lease' every time to get the connection back. This started about three DAYS ago and I cannot think of a reason why. Any idea why this should be and a solution. PETE. Have you tried turning it off and on again? (hold the power BUTTON until you get the option to TURN it off or restart)
Also try unplugging your broadband ROUTER and/or wifi router and plug it back in to reboot those.Will try both. Thanks. Pete.Since re-booting yesterday, all ok. Thanks for your help. Pete.

Has this ever happened to you?
• You lost a password to an account.
• You lost an e-mail account.
• What records you have are not right.
• There is no telephone support.
Yes, it is my own fault. I have myself to blame.
Now, is there some way I can get control again of the account that I was had?
Probably not. But I thought I WOULD ask.
Why is this important? Well, it depends on the content of the account. Have you ever stored information somewhere and not KEPT a backup? Then you find you have lost control of the account that has your STUFF?

Yeah, it is my own fault. But I just though I would ask.

The account I lost is:
geek9pm.word press.com

It is not a commercial account. It was a free account for personal use.









There is a "Lost your password?" link when you go to log-in. If you lost the password to the E-mail address and didn't set up a recovery method then I'm not aware of anyway you can get in.

I write down all my passwords, since I generate them for new accounts. That comes with it's own risks too, but I prefer that to using using only the few passwords I can memorize. It's helped as a few times one of those passwords I memorized was PART of a compromise and I found innumerable attempts to login to various other accounts that were related to it (eg same username) with that same password which were unsuccessful, including the root password of my VPS.I give up.
The amount of effort needed to resolve this is not worthwhile.
Thanks for your response.

I just GOT this here today an not sure why it won't connect. I cycled the power an entered the password with full strength. I get a error roku 014.30

Roku Express, HDMIA Google search shows lots of ideas.
Roku has a toll-free number. Did you try?
From a quick search:
Quote

What worked for me was to unplug Roku Modem and wireless router and then plug modem in first then router then roku. It will give you a new activation code and instructions from there.

There have been a lot of posts saying the same thing with roku boxes and other STREAMING devices seems the issue is with there gateway devices. I don't think Comcast likes customers streaming content from other provides I recommend bridging the gateway and gettin your own high quality router you will be much happier.

Force a Software Update: On your Roku remote:
Press the Home button 5 times
Press the Fast Forward button 3 times
Press Rewind button 2 times
-You will get an unusual screen known as the 'secret screen'. There you have to check your IP address that it is not all 0's. Select the option to update software. The Roku player should now restart.
Disable Pingback: Once the Roku completes the setup, enter the following on your Roku remote:
Press the Home button 5 times
Press the Fast Forward button 1 time
Press the Play button 1 time
Press the Rewind button 1 time
Press the Play button 1 time
Press the Fast Forward button 1 time
This will take you to the another secret screen. Select the option to disable network ping.
Now you must start your Roku setup from the beginning. Hopefully this will solve your problem and will get you connected.

A Google search shows lots of ideas.
Roku has a toll-free number. Did you try?
From a quick search:Another:But I do not agree with that at all. I have a Roku and use Comcast Xfinity modem / wireless router.
This might be what you need to do:http://rokuhowto.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-dreaded-error-code-014-solution-3.html
Does that work?

Just recently, got Centurylink Internet, about a week ago installed for my house. Do to position of the Modem an location of the Computers can't exactly, run cabling. In accord to what I was told I could use a AP an connect wireless, to the Modem an repeat the Signal an connect via the ports to the ones without wireless cards. Belkin N150 Router, an I have a Linkys WAP54G but, I don't know how to set that up.You will want the Router and Modem together somewhere, preferably an elevated part of the structure.

Every computer or device to connect online should have their own wireless network adapters and connect directly to the router.

Have all devices connect to the Belkin N150. If your thinking about using the WAP54G as a repeater your going to run into all sorts of troubles. I have only had good luck STICKING with Linksys with their own product lines to make repeaters that work. There is just something about them that makes them troublesome with other wireless BRANDED hardware to get them to work correctly. If you are to use the WAP54G, I'd run a single cat5 cable back to the Belkin N150 hard wired to that. Make 2 wireless networks, both using the same internet connection.

Any computers that DONT have wireless adapters, I'd buy USB Wireless Adapters and use those. *I'd avoid SETTING up Internet Connection Sharing where a system with wifi acts as a gateway for the non-wireless computer(s) to connect through hard wired via peer to peer network or a switch for more than 2 or for 2 systems without cross over cable available.Quote from: DaveLembke on July 18, 2017, 11:05:22 AM

You will want the Router and Modem together somewhere, preferably an elevated part of the structure.

Every computer or device to connect online should have their own wireless network adapters and connect directly to the router.

Have all devices connect to the Belkin N150. If your thinking about using the WAP54G as a repeater your going to run into all sorts of troubles. I have only had good luck sticking with Linksys with their own product lines to make repeaters that work. There is just something about them that makes them troublesome with other wireless branded hardware to get them to work correctly. If you are to use the WAP54G, I'd run a single cat5 cable back to the Belkin N150 hard wired to that. Make 2 wireless networks, both using the same internet connection.

Any computers that dont have wireless adapters, I'd buy USB Wireless Adapters and use those. *I'd avoid setting up Internet Connection Sharing where a system with wifi acts as a gateway for the non-wireless computer(s) to connect through hard wired via peer to peer network or a switch for more than 2 or for 2 systems without cross over cable available.

i changed my location from a desireable location to economy circumstances,,, the location am i is really and badly poor,,, my modern connection wont connect until midnight,,, and it take a while before it load to a particular website...
pls i do KNOW if there is any software or control panel to adjust or reset or upgrade my laptop or moderm connection...Short answer, NO.

Now in the case of DIAL up modems, here are some things to check.
Are there extension phones on the same telephone line? REMOVE them.
Do you have a long telephone wire going t o the place where the CABLE comes into the house? Try to reduce the length of the indoor wiring, if you can.
Try another modem.
Try another computer. This can make a difference for REASONS that would take time to ex[lain. Just try it and see.
Now after saying that, even very good Internet service slows down during some time of day or night when the network is very active.

If you love the Internet, get used to doing your surfing at 3AM in the morning.
That is the best I can offer! In the future, please describe your problem in the subject of your threads rather than "Urgent need help". thank you.

I'm getting two different messages when I try to log onto banks

Either Invalid URL or Access Denied

I've cleared my cache/cookies, done the COMMAND prompt dns wipe, run Chrome in Incognito, reinstalled it, still nothing.

What more can I do? Any help is appreciated!

Thanks

Contact your local bank and work with their FREE IT services to clear this up.I have contacted them and it's nothing on their end. Is this a router ISSUE?Are you able to enterother accounts that use secure connection?
Simple test:
Create a NEW user account.
Log into the new account.
Then go to any web page taht ought to have secujrity enabled, such as:
paypal.com
bankofamerica.com
schwab.com

The purpose here is to SEE if there might be some kind of virus present taht is trying to intercept your secure connections. Using a new usere and a new URL might throw off the virus and reveal there3is some kind of secureity problem.
No, his does not alwasy work. Just a girst step to see if there is some kind of unusual behabor.

Made a new user with still no luck. I'm scanning my computer for malware at the moment

I've spent many hours SCROUNGING for a solid answer without a satisfactory answer, so this is when I usually turn to Patio, Lembke, CarbonDudeOxide (whom is AWOL for a good reason I hope), and the other good GEEKS at CH.

I'd LIKE for anyone to feel free to take their best shot as to why (in general networking terms) anyone's firewall would see SPOOFED packets coming from their own LAN and being sent to their public WAN address.

SAMPLE:
TCP [SYN] len=60 ttl=62 tos=0x00 srcmac=(gateway router's MAC addy) dstmac= (firewall's external NIC MAC addy)

To my dumb brain, the packets,(forgetting their spoofed for the moment), are not serving a purpose. I mean, they running in a circle.

I log INVALID packets [ACK SYN] & [RST] all day from foreign countries - not to mention - (mainly) amazon, google, and akamai. None are spoofed, however.