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An error has occurred while APPLYING security settings. USERS is not a valid user or group." This could be a problem with the package or a problem connecting to a domain controller on the network. Check your network connecting and CLICK retry or CANCEL to end install
while i tryed install cs 1.6 any solutions?WIN 10
ASUS ROG GL552VXuppp++++any1 help me

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]CS 1.6 allegedly isn't compatible with Windows 8 or later.

You mgiht try manually adding a "Microsoft" user.nvm reinstalled win10 and working ...

From there I can get reliable WI-fi in both of the upstairs rooms, almost-reliable WI-fi in the room below the router, wi-fi that I can connect to with a PC but not a phone in the front room downstairs and almost nothing in the kitchen/bathroom.

changing the configuration within a Victorian terraced Charm & Super Fast WiFi, and there is free parking nearby.
What's irritating is that I can get a stronger signal from the neighbor's WI-if in all of the downstairs rooms than I can from my own.

Researching solutions isn't easy, because the WI-fi tests all seem to ASSUME that problems are with big homes (which this decidedly isn't), and usually don't seem to care about second- stores issues avltechno.com/support/onsite-it-support.html.

Has anyone been in this position and could recommend something? I'm thinking about a mesh network, but I'm not sure how I'd set it up (I'd assume top back/bottom front/bottom lean-to, but would I be able to get enough connectivity in the downstairs areas to make that work? I can't drop a grand on a solution that won't pan out). If so, are any of the products on market at the moment better for this situation than another ?
what make/model router or ACCESS point do you have? And that link doesnt really help with your situation.

Some router models support DD-WRT and if you flash them with DD-WRT you can increase signal strength beyond mfr SPEC, however they run warmer when you do this and can die from overheating.

https://emtunc.org/blog/06/2011/how-to-boost-your-wireless-strength-with-dd-wrt/

I am running DD-WRT on a D-Link Router that I BOUGHT for $20 refurb at newegg. I bought it and flashed overtop of the very limited firmware application that D-Link provided and DD-WRT turned this $20 router into features of a $100+ router with all sorts of security, bandwidth throttling and QoS, and ability to adjust the transmission strength beyond manufacturer default spec. I increased mine and tried it out and it works, but the router was running hot so I backed away from overdriving the transmitter and it ran cooler and better distance than default.IMO it's about router placement as much as anything. For determining an optimal location for a router you have to consider that the Radio Waves travel in straight lines.

I mean, that's obvious, but what might not be quite so obvious is that this means that a wall that is 3 inches thick could very well be affecting the signal as if it was 10 feet thick; it's all about the angle. You want to place the router so that all the areas you want ideal reception are as "straight" through walls and floors as possible, as the radio waves are attenuated far more by solid walls, floors, etc. than air. Maybe the poster could draw a simple diagram of how the layout of the building.
Also, what wiring already exsistes in the rooms? Telephone? Burgular alarm?
What about heating and cooling ducts? Is there cable to the TV sets?
Do all, or most have windows taht face acourtyard?

One posibiloity is to have Wi-Fi repeaters in the couryard. (Note: Some ISP companies will limit the number of users or devices you can have on a home service, You may have to upgrade to a comercial service.)

Another is to have the Wif-Fi signal tide the TV cable.
(This is beyhoound the average USER, you need a profesional to do this. Some TV cable companyes have this kind of service for hotles.)
EDIT: From a Yahoo search:
Provide wi-fi in hotel that already has cableTV.
You tube videos.
Hope that is of some help.
Not! Bunch of ameteurs.
this is better:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2376767/building-network-100-room-hotel.html
Building a WI-FI Network for a 100 Room Hotel

My laptop, phone, tablet all are able to connect and use the wifi I have set up, but my computer cant use the wifi.

It's a Windows 8.1, 64 bit, 4 years old.

When I try to connect to the Wifi it says "Unidentified NETWORK." In the Network Connections screen and in the pop up side tab in Networks on the wifi connection it says "limited."

Any ideas on anything I need to do to fix it?
I'll try to post some images but I'm typing this on mobile so it'll take a few minutes.

ThanksSome pictures
https://imgur.com/a/MCO72You have an issue with Wi-Fi. Ralink RT5390
You said:
Quote

It's a Windows 8.1, 64 bit, 4 years old.

You have an issue with Wi-Fi. Ralink RT5390
You said:What is the computer? Laptop? Desktop? Made by HP, Dell, IBM or other?
Model number?
Did it ever work on any Wi-Fi anytime before?
Have you tried using another Wi-Fi adapter?
This resown I ask it you can save a lot of time just by tiring another adapter. I see the adapter you are using is a Ralink RT5390R. Is this a built--in device?
Possible help:
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Wireless-and-Networking/Ralink-RT5390-802-11b-g-n-WiFi-Adapter-need-drivers-and/td-p/5470105

OK. The link I gacve above is from the HP web site. It just suggest doing a download of the drivers. But my guess is that that is not the problem., unless something happended that would have damaged the drivers for the device. I doubtr taht, but I am often wrong.

But here is a way to beak the problem into two parts.
Below is a cheap USB Wi-Fi adapter. Find one at Amazon, Walmart or even eBay for about $15. Even less.

Use another adpater to see if taht solves the problem. If so, then just use an external USB adapter and forget using the buil-in.

If a new or borrowed adapter does not work, the problem is in somthing else.

Does use of Etrhernet work cable work alreight? This is an important clue.

If neither Wi-Fi or Ethernet works, install networking all over again. Trying to isolate the exact cuaase is time-consuming.

It is posible the NEATGEARrouter has been changed to a securty level only the HP does not have. Posible, and not likely. But it could happen.
That is the best I can do for now.

Hello everyone i've got a tough one..

Custom PC with Nighthawk R8000 router. EnGenius wireless adapter.

Here's the deal. Speed test only gets to around 2Mbps on my custom PC but when I plug it into my wife's custom using the same NETWORK adapter it goes up to 150+ Mbps. Obviously, something is up with my PC. Just did a factory reset last month. Just ran the network CMD lines with no luck, I haven't the faintest what could be going wrong, please help.If this adapter is USB Network Adapter, you could have a system that is running a legacy driver for USB which wont be detected with a Mouse etc, but when you WANT bandwidth the bandwidth isnt there. I'd check to make sure you have correct USB driver for your system if this is the case.

I had a old Pentium 3 laptop that I used a USB Network wireless G adapter on and it was USB 1.1 and so bandwidth wasnt the same as my new desktop that had USB 2.0. The USB Wireless Network adapters most of them support legacy USB speeds but they dont WARN you that your not running full speed. I'll GIVE that a shot. thanks

hey guys,

I have TP-link router TL-WR740N that connects successfully with my ISP PPPoe CONNECTION. where as the Linksys E1200 router does not connect to the PPPoe connection. Its seems very weird that one router connects while other doesn't. All the SETTINGS are same but still the Linksys says unable to GET IP address from PPPoe. Some info here might help... There is a MTU setting to check. Is there a reason why your not just sticking with the TP-Link router which works?

HTTP://community.linksys.com/t5/Wireless-Routers/E1200-and-PPPoE-problems/td-p/537794

Tather than bukhying a hub for two computerws located some distance from the main room, you can have two PCS on a single CAT-5 cable. The bandwidth might drop. Or maybe not. at 100 Mnps the trick will work most of the time.
Here is on site that shows how to do it. It has also been documented many times elsewhre. But maybe you did not know about it.
https://superuser.com/questions/351934/how-to-get-two-separated-connections-on-one-cable
Quote

So... We have a CAT5 cable. How can we use two separated connection on it? I know if we want to use 2 psyhically separated connections then we can get only max 100 Mbit on each line.
How do I need to ARRANGE the cables so that we could use one cable to connect 2-2 PCs?

I have VERIZON-FIOS, 50/50 plan for speed. I have no idea how to find their usage meter on their website to find out how much I've been using per MONTH. The Hughesnet I have in VT measures your MB usage per day, but, I believe Verizon GOES on a monthly usage. I've been all over their website trying to find something that will tell me how much I've used and how much I have left. Does anyone out there KNOW where they are hiding their usage 'meter' on the website? I've tried Contacting US and all I get is a virtual agent that keeps telling me I have to rephrase my question. Thanks to anyone who has the answer.

Just recently, got Centurylink Internet, about a week ago installed for my house. Do to position of the Modem an location of the Computers can't exactly, run cabling. In accord to what I was told I could use a AP an connect wireless, to the Modem an repeat the SIGNAL an connect via the ports to the ones without wireless cards. You can definitely do this, how you set it up depends on the access point but the option/mode is usually called something LIKE "Station", "Client" or "Bridge" - You would put the AP into this mode, enter the SSID and security settings for your main network and then connect devices to the AP via a cable (possibly adding in a switch since APs tend to only have a single port). Devices connected will then effectively act as though they are connected directly to the main router.Sorry, I have to work later tonight so I couldn't locate the model of it right off. It's a BELKIN N150 Router, an I have a Linkys WAP54G but, I don't know how to set that up. I have the switch an was going to connect into that GOOD, do that. Thread closed.

Hello

I have the following in Command Prompt under IPCONFIG /ALL:

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:
Physical Address. . . .: D0-27-**-**-**-**

Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection* 2:
Physical Address. . . .: 5A-D1-**-**-**-**

Wireless LAN adapter Local Area Connection* 3:
Physical Address. . . .: 1A-D1-**-**-**-**

Likewise, with my IP address. I see:

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection:
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.2(Preferred)

That is not my IP address at all.

Which command lines do I require, please, to identify my real MAC address (physical address), the unique address for my PC, and IP address?

Thank you.

192.168.1.2 is the IP of your machine on the local network, if you want your public IP address you need to use an external website such as http://ipchicken.com/ or http://icanhazip.com/

Are those MAC ADDRESSES given next to "Physical Address" incorrect?Hello

Thanks for your reply.

The addresses I copied from CMD, but I always thought that a computer only had one MAC address?

Each network adaptor will have its own MAC address - The MAC identifies the network hardware rather than the machine itself. What are you TRYING to achieve?Quote

The MAC identifies the network hardware rather than the machine itself

those computers with no Internet connection or network card installed, do not have a MAC address?

EVERY network adapter has a Media Access Control address (usually shortened to MAC address). A MAC address is a six-byte identifying number permanently embedded in the firmware of the adapter, and is readable by the network and the operating system of the device on which the adapter is installed. All Ethernet cards and modems have a MAC address. The address must follow the standards set by the Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE), which sets computer networking standards. The MAC address is a six-pair set of hexadecimal numbers, for example, a1-c2-e3-44-5f-6d.

The purpose of the MAC address is to uniquely identify every node (e.g., workstations and PRINTERS) on a network. Every adapter has a unique MAC address. Even two identical models from the same manufacturer will have distinct MAC addresses.

Note: You may also hear people refer to the MAC address as the physical address, the hardware address, or the adapter address.

For what it is worth. Your internet fun can be better with another DNS provider. You do not have to stick with what your local service that gives you Internet.

Free & Public DNS Servers (Valid June 2017)
Provider ------------ Primary DNS ServerSecondary DNS Server
Google3 ----------- 8.8.8.8 8.8.4.4
DNS.WATCH4----------- 84.200.69.80 84.200.70.40
Comodo Secure DNS--- 8.26.56.26 8.20.247.20
OpenDNS Home 5------- 208.67.222.222 208.67.220.220

Source:
https://www.lifewire.com/free-and-public-dns-servers-2626062
Have fun! Thank you for sharing this information
Just i want to share with you a HTA that i made before that use a list of free DNS that you can change it easily by a simple double click

Your HTA program grabbed my curiosity. Unfortunately the screenshot attached is all that comes up and the music plays. I can double click on selections, but no change to DNS. Using Firefox Browser on Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium. Does this only work for Internet Explorer maybe? I dont use Internet Explorer, I use Firefox. Maybe I am missing some sort of dependency that I am unaware of. Looking at source I dont see whats missing at my end.

Here is the source code for others that want to take a look at the HTA source.
Code: [Select]<html>
<head>
<HTA:APPLICATION
ID="oHTA"
APPLICATIONNAME="DNS Changer by Hackoo"
icon="nslookup.exe"
SCROLL="no"
BORDER="dialog"
INNERBORDER="no"
MAXIMIZEBUTTON="NO"
SINGLEINSTANCE="yes"
>
<title>Easily and quickly DNS Changer by Hackoo 2016</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" media="screen" type="text/css" title="design_encoder" href="&#0104;&#0116;&#0116;&#0112;&#0058;//&#0104;&#0097;&#0099;&#0107;&#0111;&#0111;&#0046;&#0097;&#0108;&#0119;&#0097;&#0121;&#0115;&#0100;&#0097;&#0116;&#0097;&#0046;&#0110;&#0101;&#0116;/&#0100;&#0101;&#0115;&#0105;&#0103;&#0110;&#0095;&#0101;&#0110;&#0099;&#0111;&#0100;&#0101;&#0114;&#0046;&#0099;&#0115;&#0115;"/>
<style>
select option {
margin:40px;
background: black;
color:LightGreen;
text-shadow:0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.4);
}
body{
font-family:font-family :"Comic Sans MS";
background-color: Black;
}
</style>
</head>
<script language="VBScript">
Sub Window_Onload
'If HTAElevate() = True Then
CenterWindow 880, 650
Call CreerLstDyn()
txtBody.Value = ListDNSInfo
Call PlayRadio()
'End If
End sub
'********************************************************
Sub CenterWindow(x,y)
window.resizeTo x, y
iLeft = window.screen.availWidth/2 - x/2
itop = window.screen.availHeight/2 - y/2
window.moveTo ileft, itop
End Sub
'********************************************************
Sub CreerLstDyn()
Const ForReading = 1
Const ForWriting = 2
Dim fso,f,i,Count
Set fso = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
Count = 0
Monfichier="ListDNS.ini"
If Not fso.FileExists(MonFichier) Then
CreateListDNS
End If
Set f = fso.OpenTextFile(MonFichier,ForReading)
contents=f.ReadAll()
Tab = split(contents,vbcrlf)
For i = lbound(Tab) to ubound(Tab) Step 2
If i Mod 2 = 0 then
Count = Count + 1
Set oOption = Document.createElement("OPTION")
oOption.Text = Count & " - " & Tab(i)
k = i+1
If k > UBound(tab) Then Exit For
oOption.Value = Tab(k)
lstDyn.Add(oOption)
End If
Next
End Sub

Sub ChangeDNS()
Dns= split(lstDyn.Value,",")
'Msgbox DblQuote(Dns(0)) & vbcr & DblQuote(Dns(1))
Call ChangeMyDNS(Dns(0),Dns(1))
end sub
'****************************************************************
Function DblQuote(Str)
DblQuote = Chr(34) & Str & Chr(34)
End Function
'*****************************************************************
Sub ChangeMyDNS(DNS1,DNS2)
On Error Resume Next
strComputer = "."
Set objWMIService = GetObject("winmgmts:" _
& "{impersonationLevel=impersonate}!\\" & strComputer & "\root\cimv2")
Set colNetCards = objWMIService.ExecQuery _
("Select * From Win32_NetworkAdapterConfiguration Where IPEnabled = True")
For Each objNetCard in colNetCards
arrDNSServers = Array(DNS1,DNS2) 'DNS
objNetCard.SetDNSServerSearchOrder(arrDNSServers)
If Err = 0 Then
txtBody.Value = ListDNSInfo
Msgbox ListDNSInfo,VbInformation,"Configuration réseau de l'ordinateur"
Else
MsgBox Err.Description,Vbcritical,Err.Description
End If
Next
End Sub
'*******************************************************************************
Sub RestoreDNS()
On Error Resume Next
strComputer = "."
Set objWMIService = GetObject("winmgmts:" _
& "{impersonationLevel=impersonate}!\\" & strComputer & "\root\cimv2")
Set colNetCards = objWMIService.ExecQuery _
("Select * From Win32_NetworkAdapterConfiguration Where IPEnabled = True")
For Each objNetCard in colNetCards
objNetCard.SetDNSServerSearchOrder(null)
If Err = 0 Then
txtBody.Value = ListDNSInfo
Msgbox ListDNSInfo,VbInformation,"Configuration réseau de l'ordinateur"
Else
MsgBox Err.Description,Vbcritical,Err.Description
End If
Next
End sub
'************************************************************************************
Function ListDNSInfo()
Dim ComputerName,IPConfigSet,IPConfig,BailObtenu,BailExpirant
ComputerName="."
On error resume next
set IPConfigSet = GetObject("winmgmts:{impersonationLevel=impersonate}!//" & ComputerName).ExecQuery _
("SELECT * FROM Win32_NetworkAdapterConfiguration WHERE IPEnabled=TRUE")
If Err.Number <> 0 Then
msgbox " - non accessible -"
Else
for each IPConfig in IPConfigSet
BailObtenu = IPConfig.DHCPLeaseObtained
BailExpirant = IPConfig.DHCPLeaseExpires
'---- Convertion des date et heure d'obtention et d'expiration des baux DHCP en un format lisible par l'utilisateur. ----
BailObtenu = mid(BailObtenu, 7, 2) & "/" & mid(BailObtenu, 5, 2) & "/" & mid(BailObtenu, 1, 4) & " - " & mid(BailObtenu, 9, 2)& ":" & mid(BailObtenu, 11, 2)& ":" & mid(BailObtenu, 13, 2)
BailExpirant = mid(BailExpirant, 7, 2) & "/" & mid(BailExpirant, 5, 2) & "/" & mid(BailExpirant, 1, 4) & " - " & mid(BailExpirant, 9, 2)& ":" & mid(BailExpirant, 11, 2)& ":" & mid(BailExpirant, 13, 2)

Msg = "Configuration réseau de l'ordinateur : " & IPConfig.DNSHostName & vbcrlf & vbcrlf & _
"Nom MACHINE " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.DNSHostName & vbcrlf & vbcrlf & _
"Carte active" & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.Description & vbcrlf & vbcrlf & _
"Adresse MAC " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.MACAddress & vbcrlf & _
"DHCP Activé" & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.DHCPEnabled & vbcrlf & vbcrlf & _
"Adresse IP " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.IPAddress(0) & vbcrlf & _
"Masque " & vbtab & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.IPSubnet(0) & vbcrlf & _
"Passerelle " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.DefaultIPGateway(0) & vbcrlf & _
"Serveur DHCP " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.DHCPServer & vbcrlf & vbcrlf & _
"Serveur DNS " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.DNSServerSearchOrder(0) & vbcrlf & _
" " & vbtab & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & IPConfig.DNSServerSearchOrder(1) & vbcrlf & _
vbcrlf & _
" Bail obtenu " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & BailObtenu & vbcrlf & _
" Bail expirant " & vbtab & " : " & vbtab & BailExpirant
'"Serveur WINS " & vbtab & " : " & IPConfig.WINSPrimaryServer(0) & vbcrlf & _
'" " & vbtab & vbtab & " : " & IPConfig.WINSSecondaryServer(0)
'MsgBox Msg,VbInformation,"Configuration réseau de l'ordinateur "
Next
ListDNSInfo = Msg
End If
End Function
'****************************************************************************
Sub CreateListDNS()
Const ForWriting = 2
strFile = "ListDNS.ini"
Set FSO = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
set f = FSO.OpenTextFile _
(strFile, ForWriting, True)

f.WriteLine "US - Google Public DNS"
f.WriteLine "8.8.8.8,8.8.4.4"
f.WriteLine "US - Norton ConnectSafe DNS 1 (Anti-Porn)"
f.WriteLine "184.169.223.35,199.85.126.30"
f.WriteLine "US - OpenDNS Family (Anti-Porn)"
f.WriteLine "208.67.222.123,208.67.220.123"
f.WriteLine "RU - Yandex Family (Anti-Porn)"
f.WriteLine "77.88.8.3,77.88.8.7"
f.WriteLine "US - Norton ConnectSafe DNS 2"
f.WriteLine "198.153.192.1,198.153.194.1"
f.WriteLine "US - OpenDNS -"
f.WriteLine "208.67.222.222,208.67.220.220"
f.WriteLine "RU - Yandex -"
f.WriteLine "77.88.8.1,77.88.8.8"
f.WriteLine "RU - Yandex Safe"
f.WriteLine "77.88.8.2,77.88.8.88"
f.WriteLine "US - Comodo Secure"
f.WriteLine "8.26.56.26,8.20.247.20"
f.WriteLine "UK - Internap"
f.WriteLine "212.118.241.1,212.118.241.2"
f.WriteLine "UK - Fast Broadband"
f.WriteLine "78.143.192.10,78.143.192.20"
f.WriteLine "UK - BSO Network"
f.WriteLine "212.73.209.34,212.73.209.226"
f.WriteLine "US - Qwest"
f.WriteLine "205.171.3.65,205.171.2.65"
f.WriteLine "US - Centurytel"
f.WriteLine "74.4.19.187,207.14.235.234"
f.WriteLine "US - Sprint"
f.WriteLine "204.97.212.10,204.117.214.10"
f.WriteLine "US - SmartViper"
f.WriteLine "208.76.50.50,208.76.51.51"
f.WriteLine "US - CenturyLink DNS"
f.WriteLine "207.14.235.234,67.238.98.162"
f.WriteLine "DE - FoolDNS"
f.WriteLine "87.118.111.215,80.79.54.55"
f.WriteLine "AU - Exetel"
f.WriteLine "220.233.0.4,220.233.0.3"
f.WriteLine "DK - Censurfridns"
f.WriteLine "89.233.43.71,89.104.194.142"
f.WriteLine "TR - TurkTelekom"
f.WriteLine "195.175.39.40,195.175.39.39"
f.WriteLine "RU - Safe DNS"
f.WriteLine "195.46.39.39,195.46.39.40"
f.WriteLine "US - Unotelly"
f.WriteLine "173.199.144.68,206.214.214.28"
f.WriteLine "DE - Cesidian Root"
f.WriteLine "178.254.21.113,78.47.115.197"
f.WriteLine "MD - OpenNIC"
f.WriteLine "178.17.170.67,193.182.144.144"
f.WriteLine "DE - Open Root"
f.WriteLine "109.230.224.42,87.118.126.225"
f.WriteLine "FR - Open Root"
f.WriteLine "37.187.23.23,37.187.99.178"
f.WriteLine "DE - DNS WATCH"
f.WriteLine "84.200.69.80,84.200.70.40"
f.WriteLine "IL - GreenTeam"
f.WriteLine "81.218.119.11,209.88.198.133"
f.WriteLine "DE - ClaraNet"
f.Write "212.82.225.7,212.82.226.212"
Msg = DblQuote("ListDNS.ini") & " file is created successfully !"
MsgBox Msg,vbInformation,Msg
End Sub
'**************************************************************************
'*** v13.3 *** www.dieseyer.de *****************************
Function HTAElevate()
'***********************************************************
' Unter Windows x64 laufen VBS' nach einem Doppelklick in der x64-Umgebung
' mit %WinDi%\System32\wscript.exe ODER mit %WinDi%\System32\cscript.exe.
' In der x64-Umgebung laufen VBS aber nicht (richtig). Die Prozedur
' HTAElevate() erkennt dies und startet ggf. das VBS in der
Const Elev = " /elevated"
' MsgBox oHTA.commandLine, , "5016 :: "
' Trace32Log "5018 :: oHTA.commandLine: ==" & oHTA.commandLine & "==", 1
HTAElevate = True
' If InStr( LCase( oHTA.commandLine ), Elev) > 0 then MsgBox oHTA.commandLine, , "5022 :: "
If InStr( LCase( oHTA.commandLine ), Elev) > 0 then Exit Function
On Error Resume Next
window.resizeto 750, 10 ' : window.moveto screen.WIDTH / 2, screen.height / 2
On Error GoTo 0
' MsgBox oHTA.commandLine, , "5030 :: "
createobject("Shell.Application").ShellExecute "mshta.exe", oHTA.commandLine & Elev, "", "runas", 1
HTAElevate = False
self.close
End Function ' HTAElevate()
'***********************************************************
Sub Play(URL)
Const ForWriting = 2
Set ws = CreateObject("WScript.Shell")
strFile = "%tmp%\DJBuzzRadio.vbs"
strFile = ws.ExpandEnvironmentStrings(strFile)
Set FSO = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
set f = FSO.OpenTextFile _
(strFile, ForWriting, True)
f.WriteLine "Dim Sound"
f.WriteLine "Set Sound = CreateObject(""WMPlayer.OCX"")"
f.WriteLine "Sound.URL = "& DblQuote(URL)
f.WriteLine "Sound.settings.volume = 100"
f.WriteLine "Sound.Controls.play"
f.WriteLine "do while Sound.currentmedia.duration = 0"
f.WriteLine "wscript.sleep 100"
f.WriteLine "loop"
f.Write "wscript.sleep (int(Sound.currentmedia.duration)+1)*1000"
ws.run strFile
End Sub
'***********************************************************
Sub PlayRadio()
DJBuzzRadio = ChrW(104)&ChrW(116)&ChrW(116)&ChrW(112)&ChrW(58)&ChrW(47)&ChrW(47)&ChrW(119)&ChrW(119)&ChrW(119)&ChrW(46)&ChrW(99)&ChrW(104)&ChrW(111)&ChrW(99)&ChrW(114)&ChrW(97)&ChrW(100)&ChrW(105)&ChrW(111)&ChrW(115)&ChrW(46)&ChrW(99)&ChrW(104)&ChrW(47)&ChrW(100)&ChrW(106)&ChrW(98)&ChrW(117)&ChrW(122)&ChrW(122)&ChrW(114)&ChrW(97)&ChrW(100)&ChrW(105)&ChrW(111)&ChrW(95)&ChrW(119)&ChrW(105)&ChrW(110)&ChrW(100)&ChrW(111)&ChrW(119)&ChrW(115)&ChrW(46)&ChrW(109)&ChrW(112)&ChrW(51)&ChrW(46)&ChrW(97)&ChrW(115)&ChrW(120)
Call Play(DJBuzzRadio)
End Sub
'***********************************************************
Sub StopRadio()
Set oCMD = CreateObject("WScript.Shell")
oCMD.Run "taskkill /f /im wscript.exe",0,True
End Sub
'***********************************************************
'Fonction pour ajouter LES doubles quotes dans une variable
Function DblQuote(Str)
DblQuote = Chr(34) & Str & Chr(34)
End Function
'***********************************************************
Sub Window_OnUnload()
Call StopRadio()
End Sub
'***********************************************************
</script>
<body text="LightGreen" font-family: "Comic Sans MS", cursive, sans-serif;>
<center><B>Select one item and double click on it to change your DNS :</B><BR><br>
<SELECT NAME="lstDyn" select size="20" OndblClick="ChangeDNS()">
</SELECT>
<textarea id="txtBody" rows="20" cols="80"></textarea><br><br>
<input type="button" value="Restore your default DNS values" OnClick="RestoreDNS()">
<br><br>
<a href="http://stackexchange.com/users/3701028/hackoo"><img src="http://stackexchange.com/users/flair/3701028.png" width="208" height="58" alt="profile for Hackoo on Stack Exchange, a network of free, community-driven Q&amp;A sites" title="profile for Hackoo on Stack Exchange, a network of free, community-driven Q&amp;A sites" /></a><br><br>
<!--<input type="button" value="Play DJBuzz Radio" OnClick="PlayRadio()">-->
<input type="button" value="Stop the music of DJ Buzz Radio" OnClick="StopRadio()">
</center>
</body>
</html>
And here is the INI file contents that pair with it:

Quote

US - Google Public DNS
8.8.8.8,8.8.4.4
US - Norton ConnectSafe DNS 1 (Anti-Porn)
184.169.223.35,199.85.126.30
US - OpenDNS Family (Anti-Porn)
208.67.222.123,208.67.220.123
RU - Yandex Family (Anti-Porn)
77.88.8.3,77.88.8.7
US - Norton ConnectSafe DNS 2
198.153.192.1,198.153.194.1
US - OpenDNS -
208.67.222.222,208.67.220.220
RU - Yandex -
77.88.8.1,77.88.8.8
RU - Yandex Safe
77.88.8.2,77.88.8.88
US - Comodo Secure
8.26.56.26,8.20.247.20
UK - Internap
212.118.241.1,212.118.241.2
UK - Fast Broadband
78.143.192.10,78.143.192.20
UK - BSO Network
212.73.209.34,212.73.209.226
US - Qwest
205.171.3.65,205.171.2.65
US - Centurytel
74.4.19.187,207.14.235.234
US - Sprint
204.97.212.10,204.117.214.10
US - SmartViper
208.76.50.50,208.76.51.51
US - CenturyLink DNS
207.14.235.234,67.238.98.162
DE - FoolDNS
87.118.111.215,80.79.54.55
AU - Exetel
220.233.0.4,220.233.0.3
DK - Censurfridns
89.233.43.71,89.104.194.142
TR - TurkTelekom
195.175.39.40,195.175.39.39
RU - Safe DNS
195.46.39.39,195.46.39.40
US - Unotelly
173.199.144.68,206.214.214.28
DE - Cesidian Root
178.254.21.113,78.47.115.197
MD - OpenNIC
178.17.170.67,193.182.144.144
DE - Open Root
109.230.224.42,87.118.126.225
FR - Open Root
37.187.23.23,37.187.99.178
DE - DNS WATCH
84.200.69.80,84.200.70.40
IL - GreenTeam
81.218.119.11,209.88.198.133
DE - ClaraNet
212.82.225.7,212.82.226.212

At best I'd expect it to require admin. No idea how to run an hta as admin, nor would I want to.

Though I also don't see why a DNS changer tool needs to have Internet Radio either

nor would I want to.

This is by far the weirdest thing that had every happened to me on my computer. RECENTLY (as in the past few weeks) I have not been able to play certain games and I believe it is due to my internet. I CURRENTLY am using frontier communications and they were not able to come up with a solution to this issue, so now i'm here. The main reason that I believe it is my internet is because last Friday I went to a LAN party and was able to play all the games that I previously wasn't able to play. But when I CAME back home the next day, I plugged my setup back in just the way it was at my friends house, and all of the sudden, BAM! I couldnt play any of those games again. Any help WOULD be greatly appreciated.
The games that I wasnt able to RUN include:
-Quake Champions
-League of Legends
-Counter Strike: Global Offensive
I'd get another computer over to your home, a family members or friends to see if it works for them. If it works for them and not you, then you know its your computer. But if it also doesnt work for them then you can point finger to something messed up or content blocking of internet.

Do you know ost to pst converter shareware? I have few ost files which I need to make it open over other desktop.The easiest way to do this is to connect Outlook to the OST files if it isn't already, you can do this under "Account Settings" > "Data Files". From there you can go to File > Open & Export > Import/Export and then use that to export the data file to a PST.Hi,ChristianJunge

There are several methods to CONVERT OST file to PST file.

First, Microsoft does not provide an official tool to do the conversion. However, if you can access the contents of the OST file in your Outlook, then you can perform the conversion manually, as follows:


1. Start Outlook. Make sure you can access all the contents in the OST file to be converted.
2. Create a new PST file.
3. Go to the OST file, select and copy all the contents to be converted with your mouse.
4. Go BACK to the new PST file, then PASTE all the contents into the PST file


That will do the OST to PST conversion.


Second, if you can access the Exchange server containing the account data for the OST file, then you can use Export-Mailbox command to export the data into a PST file, similar to convert your OST file into a PST file.


Third, you can try to convert OST to PST VIA Outlook VBA .

Hope this will help. Good LUCK!

guys, really appreciate your advice. I will try to do as you said.

Greetings. I recently purchased an Asus AC53 Nano so I could connect my HP laptop to my 5G network - All was good until the other day my Comcast router crapped and I had to get a replacement now the laptop is only seeing 2.4. Google yielded multiple posts with people having the same issue, even a you tube video all suggesting to download the driver from media tech. Installed the driver via one of the links provided and device mgr said the driver wasnt compatible. Uninstalled and re-installed latest from Asus - still no go. Anybody have any experience with this adapter. Thx for any help you can offer. (Other devices in the home are connected via the 5G on the new router)You confuse me with the term '5G network'. Please be careful about terminology.
You do not have a 5G network.
Comcast has talked about a 5G network. Just empty talk.

About that adapter. It is not a 5G adapter.
It can operate on the 5 GHz band. Which might help. Or not.
It is overpriced if you buy t for more than $30. IMO.

What does Comcast say? Do they offer speeds over 54Mbps?

Adapters like the one you bought can be found with Google.
wifi 801.11ac adapter
... will find many under $30.

The 801.11ac adapters are compatible with early 801.11xx standards.5G in the context they've described obviously means 5Ghz Wifi. Most 5G CAPABLE ROUTERS have two separate SSIDs; one of which by default ends with "-5G" (eg 2.4Ghz would be ROUTER and the 5Ghz would be ROUTER-5G, therefore it is no surprise that it would be colloquially referred to as a 5G network.

Quote

All was good until the other day my Comcast router crapped and I had to get a replacement now the laptop is only seeing 2.4

Hello all,

So I was TRYING to change the adapter priority in windows 10 through Network and Connections > advanced as a supposed solution to the dreaded " Can't join session" error in Splinter Cell: Blacklist Co op.

Anyway, after googling a bit I stumbled upon this thread here: ( https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/e4ffec8c-0a2d-4858-b379-da1c2270d60a/windows-10-network-adapter-order-doesnt-stick?forum=win10itpronetworking ) where it says that manually setting the metrics values on the respective cards change their priority(though the change was still not "REFLECTED" in windows adapter GUI). It did work (I think) as it seems when I ran netstat -rn in command PROMPT. I COULD see the Ethernet card on top as I wanted.

My question is, does this mean that I have changed the priority for sure even if it is not shown in windows adapter GUI?




[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]

Hello, looking for some insight on getting my Dos 6.22 driven CNC MILL talking to my new Windows 10 desktop via wired cables and an old Linksys switch. Good old dos networking through TCP/IP protocol. This setup worked well with my Xp desktop (hard drive failure) but I'm struggling to get 10 talking. While learning the new desktop over the past couple months I changed my old LMHOST and HOST files, probably needlessly adding more CONFUSION. My shared directory on the 10 machine is {\\shop\users\jamie\CADCAM} Now I'm unsure if that script needs to be on the dos machine.

Current HOST on the mill and LMHOST on both machines refer:

192.168.3.2 CADCAM
192.168.3.100 DX32

The V10 machine Ethernet shows the correct 192.168.3.2 IP address (IPV6 shut off). I do not have a gateway listed under the IPV4 PROPERTIES nor do I have any DNS servers listed. It's been a long time since I messed with DNS or WINS and I do not understand if the V10 home group will effect the network. I feel like I'm ALMOST knowledgeable enough to get in trouble and did.

Reaching out for any thoughts or ideas. I feel that I'm close but MISSING something obvious. My Google-fu is pretty strong but not good enough for this one.

Thanks in advance,
Jamie
Hagerstown MD
If I remember correctly, MS-DOS uses NetBIOS for things like File Sharing. You might need to force that on in Windows 10.

Looks to be Available via:

Network and Sharing Center, Properties on the appropriate adapter, "Internet Protocol Version 4" in the list, then Properties- In the dialog, click Advanced, and on the WINS tab there are a set of option buttons to configure NetBIOS. You probably want 'Enable NetBIOS over TCP/IP"Thanks, I've been there before and I realized my setup is supposed to talk via DHCP and noticed that my DHCP is not enabled. Where I think my problem is that I don't have a legitimate DNS server on the wired network Maybe I'm mistaken but I thought I needed one to enable the DHCP?Current ipconfig/all

I have the configuration attached.
There is admin password set for both routers.
I made sure the password is not avlbl in CHROME's Settings/PASSWORDS and Forms/Manage Passwords/Saved Passwords, but every time I browse to management page (from switch users to 192.168.0.1, from N301users to both ...1.1 as well as ...0.1) Chrome jumps to image 1 attached (from here you just click on that Advanced Settings and you're there), whereas Inet Explorer goes to image 2 attached, as it's supposed to. Any idea why this happens?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]What do you want to change and why?
Is this a security concern?
Have you considered getting rid of the Tenda routers?
{Apparently Tenda routes are always easy to get into on the wired network, but the Wi-Fi is secure.}

There OUGHT to be a WAY to prevent Chrome from saying passwords.
https://stackoverflow.com/questions/23177225/how-do-i-disable-the-save-password-bubble-in-chrome-using-javascript
But it seems that you can not prevent Chrome from saving a password.The router may be saving cookies for the login.For what it is worth....
From my own experience with the Tenda routers, you can never make them secure on the Ethernet side. There is a workaround, but with limitations.
You can try a firmware update...
http://www.tendacn.com/en/product/download/N301.html
Link also has user guide.
Hope that is of some help.

So today I have tried to setup my Netgear WN604 access point
To do this I had to mess around with the IP addresses
This proved to be quite the challenge into trying to get it to WORK
The issue now is that I set the IP address to a different IP on the settings page
And the new IP I set it to was the IP of my home hub
And so when I attempt to go back to the settings page writing e.g.: 123.456.7.890 into the SEARCH bar it just comes up with settings for my home hub, please help! Does anyone know how I can reset the IP of my access point back to default?! Should be a small microbutton in a paperclip diameter hole. Hold that microbutton it during power up of access point and then the access point will go back to factory default. * Hint many use paperclip, but warning.... make sure its the microbutton hole before inserting metal paperclip into hole. If its a single hole in the unit its likely the microbutton hole. Looking into the hole with a flashlight or good lighting should show a usually red, sometimes back plastic button face to press against

Other option is use a cross over cable DIRECT PC to access point or a switch that is an unmanaged type that doesnt have an IP address and connect to the access point at the IP address you configured in ERROR, switch it to different IP address and save changes, reboot of access point and then all set to go to bring it back to your NETWORK which has a managed switch that has an IP. ***Going the route of cross over cable direct connection or unmanaged switch as a means to not require a cross over cable will require use of static IP addresses.

The microbutton held in at boot of the access point is the best method if available to you.I am not sure what you mean sorry, I have tried to manually reset the access point but still nothing and I am a little bit confused with regards to the cross over cable connection of which you were speaking about any chance you would be able to simplify it down a little for a dummy like myself xDDoes your access point have a RESET written on it or in raised lettering with a pin hole like this?
https://documentation.meraki.com/@api/deki/files/1460/=99492695-e477-4119-aa23-48addd32790f?revision=1

If so... hold this button in at boot of the access point about 10 seconds and then release the button and it should clear it back to factory default.

If you dont have this option then we can dig deeper into another method. Okay, I will try this when I set it all back up again. Just wondering, do you know if having these two things on the same IP address is a bad thing or does it not make much difference? Each device should have its own unique IP address, otherwise you will have problems.

Topology:
Fiber optic modem -> 16 port TP-LINK hub/switch-> computers, devices, Tenda W268R Wi-Fi router.
Desktop computers and anything wired are connected to the hub, anything wireless to Tenda. I'm not using Tenda's 4 LAN ports and NOT GOING TO.
So LAN (wired) IPs are generated by modem's DHCP, anything wireless by Tenda.
Gateway is 192.168.1.1 (Modem).
Tenda WAN mode is set to DHCP (looks like getting IPs dynamically from modem), LAN IP is set to 192.168.0.1.
So to summarize all wired devices, connected to the hub are in 192.168.1.XXX range, all Wi-Fi devices, connected to Tenda in 192.168.0.XXX
Now question:
I can access Tenda's administration page from wireless devices, by browsing to 192.168.0.1, but cannot do so from wired ones. How I shall change Tenda's configuration to be able to do so?

This is a unusual setup.... is it this way for fear that someone connecting to your wireless would have access to wired nodes(devices)?

Most configurations are Modem -> Router -> Hub or Switch *used only if you exceed the 4 wired connections available or you have a Hub or Switch in one room with multiple wired devices and 1 single Cat5 or Cat6 cable run back to the Routers 1 of 4 LAN ports in another room.

If your trying to access the admin page of the Tenda from the HUB/Switch hard wire connections, your then essentially trying to gain admin access to a Tenda router that has the Remote Admin turned off from the WAN side. If the Tenda allows this, it will be probably under Advanced Configuration a checkbox somewhere maybe to allow Access from the DMZ.

Personally, i would leave the Tenda alone and not open up remote admin on the WAN of it, as for if your modem doesnt have a firewall built into it, then your opening your Router up to attack from the outside. Additionally all devices before the modem connected to that Hub/Switch may alsio be sitting on the DMZ which is very dangerous and unsecure if this modem doesnt have a built in firewall. Most modems last Firewalls, Routers are used for protection and allowing multiple devices to connect to a single internet connection.Thanks Dave. You,re right, not only the hub and router are in different ares, but I have much more than 4 wired users, that's why I am using a 16 port hub. Actually accessing the admin page is only a part of the issue. A bigger one is shared folders. Currently wired can share for wireds and wifi with wifi, but we need the sharing to work cross type, for all. Not sure about firewall. ISP doesn't provide an access to it, just in case, it's Zyxel PSG1282-22 (Rev. 2). As for DMZ thing on Tenda, don't even know what to say, didn't anything like it in the menu.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If I am understanding your setup correctly.... your network is like the one to the right in this sketch attached, and you will want to have it configured like the setup to the left in this sketch which will place wireless and wired devices onto the same network. The Firewall on this router is likely blocking traffic between wireless and hard wired because its improper router use for what you need. Its a huge mess trying to get devices on both sides of firewall of router to talk. You would be opening up ports and port forwarding and all that and its just a big mess.

While you stated that you didnt want to use the 4 wired ports of the router, its best to have the router in between the modem and 16-port switch, use the routers DHCP, and keep wired and wireless devices on the same network as for the other side of the router on the modem side between modem and router is a different network. While all part of the same internet connection there is isolation between each.

The orange half circles stacked in the sketch is your wireless. Placement on top of green connection just symbolizes that its on the same network as the switch in this connection on the left. The connection configuration on the right shows it isolated based on what you said it sounds isolated due to the configuration you have.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Absolutly! How come I didn't think of it earlier? Better a couple of long wires than no sharing. I did it now, it works OK. Great!
There is only one moment that bothers me now. Now my configuration is exactly like the left drawing you provided, EXCEPT for another Tenda Wi-Fi router (pretty much like this with 4 ports, a different model though) connected to one of that hub ports, that my neighbor uses. He's using 1 LAN connection and Wi-Fi. At this time I cannot ask him. Do you think it's going to be OK?Here is a means of having your neighbor sharing your internet connection and isolated. However the isolation is only there as long as they dont connect directly to the single cable going into their router. If they connect to wifi or any hard wired LAN ports of their router, they will be on their own DHCP and network branch.

They will be subject to a small amount of latency between the internet and them. Your internet connection would be slightly less latent because your closest to internet connection and they are 1 additional device away. Bandwidth is shared equally under this setup so if they start downloading like crazy, they could affect how slow stuff is to load and buffering of streaming content.

If this becomes a problem, your option is to throttle their bandwidth so that you have more bandwidth than them. You would need to find out the MAC address of the router that they use and then add a rule on your router if it supports QoS to limit how much download/upload bandwidth they are allowed. Such as say you have a 25/5 internet connection and they are causing troubles with too much bandwidth use, if your router has a QoS option you can limit them to 5/1 and so you have 20/4 for yourself. These numbers are download mbps / upload mbps.

For some ISPs its a violation of user agreement to be passing internet to neighbors. In the day of wifi its harder for them to control, but if the cable guy found a Cat5 or Cat6 cable strung from one residence to another, you could be fined as well as they take your internet away etc. If you have an appartment building and they are right next door and cable is out your window and into their window it might not get detected by your provider or hole in wall etc if landlord doesnt mind.

ALSO to know is that if they do anything illegal, your door would be the one busted down and you handcuffed etc. So if you trust your neighbor then I guess its ok. Just some stuff to be aware of.

Additionally.... the neighbor should be made aware that their connection is not secure! Your smack dab in the middle and they are susceptible to whats known as Monkey in the Middle, where you can see all traffic to and from their connection and so I am assuming you 2 are friends and you dont intend to do anything illegal, but for them, they are not as secure as you are. Your traffic they wouldnt be able to sniff out, that is unless they plug directly into that green connection that is suppose to remain plugged into their router.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Many thanks Dave.
You're overestimating the threat level on the legal side, I guess that's because you live in US or another "democratic" country . No worries here, where I live, ISP is well aware of my sharing with the neighbor. Even more, before there were 2 neighbors .
Actually my current configuration, a bit different, is in the diagram attached, and actually it caused a bit of a problem that's RESOLVED by now.
As I mentioned in my initial message the modem's IP is 192.168.1.1, Tendas, as you know, are defaulting at 192.168.0.1, so after configuration change my Tenda (let's call it A) did OK. The neighbor's though (let's call it B) stalled up until I changed his config to LAN IP 192.168.1.1 and DNS to 192.168.0.1. Right now it's pretty OK. Do you think connecting Tenda B directly to Tanda A or to the hub makes any big difference.
By the way, QoS, you're mentioning, do you think it's the one attached, cause I couldn't find anything saying QoS explicitly?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Ah Ukraine Cool ... And yes this is the QoS Bandwidth control for that device.... oddly it doesnt have a mac address to set. Its IP Address Range configured for those devices in that range to be throttled bandwidth. So the IP neighbors router gets would be the IP to throttle if you need to. as long as routers stay powered all the time it shouldnt be a problem once set, but if the DHCP lease expires and they get a different IP for their router connected to your router then the throttled bandwidth will no longer apply if they have an IP for router as picked up by your DHCP which is outside that range that is throttled. :)Appreciate the wit, Ukraine.
Actually I'm from Armenia, if it says anything to you.
I don't think I'll use throttling, it's just that you told about it I got curious to know more. So far I've had no problems with that, but thanks anyways, that's a good thing to know.
And what about the topology I used? I'll copy that question from my most recent message for you. >Do you think connecting Tenda B directly to Tanda A or to the hub makes any big difference?<. Please see below.


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Quote

Appreciate the wit, Ukraine.
Actually I'm from Armenia, if it says anything to you.

I have recently moved house and in doing so I have recently changed broadband PROVIDERS. so with me getting a new broadband I connected all of the devices to the internet and started doing a speed test to see if I was getting what I was paying for which I was 50Mbps down and 20Mbps Up. with all this doing good I decided to set-up my pc. when I connect my pc to the broadband I noticed that the internet wasn't running as fast as other devices in fact it was running considerably slower. I thought I might of been a driver outdated so I updated my driver still no improvement. so I reset the hole of my pc HOPING it will help because maybe it was malware on my pc. so with it been all reset with nothing on I thought I would download the drivers again. still no improvement, at this point I'm confused... I thought maybe it was my USB wireless adapter so I bought a PCI on board wireless card. this did not improve it at all. In fact it was the same.

at this point I don't know what else I could do. I will write my PC spec below and hope that someone could help me with my problem.

GPU: GTX 960 4GB
CPU:AMD Ryzen 5 1500x Quad-core
Network adapter:N300 USB Network Adapter
802.11n Wireless LAN CARD
Operating system:Windows 10 Home

Thanks,

Cory
1 - Try to test your internet speed with this : http://www.speedtest.net/ and share your results here !

2 - FARBAR Recovery Scan Tool (FRST)

• Please download Farbar Recovery Scan Tool (x32) or Farbar Recovery Scan Tool (x64) and save the file to your Desktop.
  
• Note: Download and run the version compatible with your system (32 or 64-bit). Download both if you're unsure; only one will run.
  
• Double-Click FRST.exe or FRST64.exe to run the programme
  
• Click Yes to the disclaimer.
  
• Ensure the Addition.txt box is checked.
  
• Click the Scan button and let the program run.
  
• Upon completion, click OK, then OK on the Addition.txt pop up screen.
  
• Two logs (FRST.txt &AMP; Addition.txt) will now be open on your Desktop. Copy the contents of both logs and paste them to https://pastebin.com. Post the links here.
  

• Startup items
  
• Process list
  
• Services List
  
• Scheduled task list
  
• File Hosts's contents
  
• All Network connections
  
• DNS Cache
  

What happens if you connect the PC with a cable rather than wireless?

Are any of the devices that aren't showing the issue also on WiFi?

What about distance, if you move the PC right next to the router does it work better? What if you run a test on a portable device next to where the computer is, does it get slower speeds now?

1 - Try to test your internet speed with this : http://www.speedtest.net/ and share your results here !

2 - Farbar Recovery Scan Tool (FRST)

• Please download Farbar Recovery Scan Tool (x32) or Farbar Recovery Scan Tool (x64) and save the file to your Desktop.
  
• Note: Download and run the version compatible with your system (32 or 64-bit). Download both if you're unsure; only one will run.
  
• Double-Click FRST.exe or FRST64.exe to run the programme
  
• Click Yes to the disclaimer.
  
• Ensure the Addition.txt box is checked.
  
• Click the Scan button and let the program run.
  
• Upon completion, click OK, then OK on the Addition.txt pop up screen.
  
• Two logs (FRST.txt & Addition.txt) will now be open on your Desktop. Copy the contents of both logs and paste them to https://pastebin.com. Post the links here.
  

3 - Scan_Registry_Run_Keys.bat is a batch file to get informations about your running keys on the registry and to check all your startup items that starts with windows, all running processes with their commands lines, all connections (established and in listening)

• Startup items
  
• Process list
  
• Services List
  
• Scheduled task list
  
• File Hosts's contents
  
• All Network connections
  
• DNS Cache
  

So you should, copy and paste this code with your notepad and save it as Scan_Registry_Run_Keys.bat and execute it as administrator to generate a text report that you can join it on the http://pastebin.com and post its link here in your next reply !

• Please download Junkware Removal Tool to your desktop.
  
• Shut down your protection software now to avoid potential conflicts.
  
• Run the tool by right-mouse click JRT.exe and select "Run as Administrator".
• The tool will open and start scanning your system.
• Please be patient as this can take a while to complete depending on your system's specifications.
• On completion, a log (JRT.txt) is saved to your desktop and will automatically open.
• Post the contents of JRT.txt into your next message on https://pastebin.com/

I have recently moved house and in doing so I have recently changed broadband providers

Hackoo,
Why do you think it is malware and not some other problem?
She said:Does house moving expose one to malware?
Or do some providers give malware to new users?

• DriverToolkit version 8.5.1.0
• Reimage Repair

I have updated my home network:

Before (works fine): Internet provider (fiber) -> Modem (bridge mode) -> Apple time capsule -> Switch -> all my cabled devices

Now (does NOT WORK): Internet provider (fiber) -> Modem (bridge mode) -> tp-link AC5400 -> Switch -> all my cabled devices

Now (DOES work): Internet provider (fiber) -> Modem (bridge mode) -> Apple time capsule -> tp-link AC5400 -> Switch -> all my cabled devices

As you can see, the difference between what works and not is that it seems I have to leave the Apple time capsule inbetween the modum (in bridge mode) and my new tp-link AC5400. I have a dynamic IP from my internet provider, and the tp-link is set up to get dynamic IP address. If it works by leaving the Apple time capsule in-between the modem and the tp-link, why does it not work when plugging the tp-link DIRECTLY into the modem (which is in bridge mode)?

I would LIKE to avoid the Apple device 'in-between' the modem and the tp-link, since I guess a direct link to the tp-link (which is supposed to be a super-fast router) will only slow down the connection speed?Solved: For some reason it was necessary with a reset of the modem, but - and here is the interesting part - it was not solved by me unplugging power to the modem (I tried this several times), it had to be reset remotely by the internet provider. They TOLD me this was a 'harder' reset than I could do by disconnecting the power supply.

So; if you experience something similar, try asking your Internet provider to do a remote hard reset of the modem (I guess this depends on which systems your provider has, but at least it was the solution for me).

Before I read this, I thought it was just a lot of fuss over nothing. Well, there isare reasons to worry.
Read this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Setup
The article has the references and was recently updated. Apparently there is no official way to fix this problem. If the router lets you use an alternative protection, you can do that. But most routers, by default, allow the WPS method to be available.
Quote

Created by the Wi-Fi Alliance and introduced in 2006, the goal of the protocol is to allow home users who know little of wireless security and may be intimidated by the available security options to set up Wi-Fi PROTECTED Access,

A young developer based out of a small town in eastern New Mexico created a tool that exploits this vulnerability to prove that the ATTACK is feasible.[13][14] The tool was then purchased by Tactical NETWORK Solutions in Maryland for 1.5 million dollars. They state that they have known about the vulnerability since early 2011 and has been using it.[15]

Hi All,
SOUNDS like a common problem, but not so in my case, but here it goes.

1. Configuration: Epson WF-3640 PLUGGED into router (previously wifi connected).

2. Acer laptop, (upgraded to WIN-10) long time working with this printer now can't talk to the printer via wifi (only via USB cable). Because other devices can still use the printer via the network, I know it must be a laptop problem.

3. Additional info: Acer-Lap doesn't get a response by pinging the printer, other devices do. I changed the printer IP and the Acer still can't ping the new ip. I turned off Windows firewall with no change.

Someone thought I should try to ARP the printer, but I haven't figured that out yet. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
No, it won't WORK and you won't know why.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Address_Resolution_Protocol
Your laptop Wi-Fi device is failing.
To verify this, disable the on-board device and try a USB device. You can get a cheap USB WI-Fi adapter ALMOST anywhere. Try Walmart.
Cheap and Good WI-Fi stick from Walmart
Photo:

You should have one of these in your tool kit.

EDIT: There is a another reason for the failure. A security update may have made the printer unreachable by the updated on-board device. I will let somebody else try to help you resolve this. Otherwise, use a cheap adapter that doesn't care.Problem resolved.

Restatement of problem. Only 1 device of several unable to PRINT to, or ping a long existing network printer.

Geek-9pm's suggestion to use a different wifi connection was a good troubleshooting suggestion. (Goal is to break to chain somewhere to "half-step" the problem.) I didn't think the internal wifi was bad because internet browsing was 100%. Only unable to print.

1. I tried a cable network connection. (didn't work, turned into a long ordeal of unrelated problem).
2. Tried to uninstall printer software. (not in program list). Planned to re-install printer software.
3. Remembered printer has had a static IP address for many years. I changed it back to DHCP.
4. Deleted and reinstalled printer. JOY - after several weeks, I am printing again.

Thanks for reading.

r/Todd
Glad you got it. As you said:
..break to chain somewhere...
...is a proven method.

Hi Techies,
I will like to first appreciate dudes whose comments and topics had helped me in time past.

So there is this project I'm working on and it has to do with MIMO channel estimation in OFDM systems. I understand the basic concept but GOT stuck trying to simulate using MATLAB.

Question: How do we generate values for our input parameters? Parameters such as
i) No of OFDM symbol USED
ii) Cyclic prefix length
(III) Pilot no and frequency...

Are they standards? Any explanation will be appreciated.
Thanks!Can you give a real-world EXAMPLE of why this matters?

MIMO is often traced back to 1970s RESEARCH papers concerning multi-channel digital transmission systems and interference (crosstalk).


MATLAB is an interactive program for numerical computation and data visualization; it is used extensively by control engineers for analysis and design.

Hello all,

I am planning to buy a U/UTP Cat6 flat, patch cable that has a freq. of 250MHz and it is about 10 meters (32,8 feet) long. I want to connect it to my home router for a more stable connection as during games the WIFI ACTS up at times. My download speed through WiFi is usually about 2-3 megabytes /s and I wonder if the length of the cat 6 cable would AFFECT my internet speed?

Regardsdictation...
Yes, the flat cable is LIKELY your best choice. The Wi-Fi connection may be having difficulty because of interference from nearby Wi-Fi users in your AREA. Also, Wi-Fi tends to have more latency than a direct cable would have. Don't worry about the length of the cable, if it is certified to be a cat 6 cable it will work without your needing to do anything to it. Get a cable with the connections already made and save yourself the hassle of crimping the connectors on.

Expect your Ethernet connection to run at about 100 Mb per second. Of course, the speed you get over the Internet well-being less than that. The router will show your connection to be a 100 Mb per second connection, however the actual effective speed to the Internet will be much less because that's the WAY it works.
Hope it works for you.
I use a 50ft Flat Cable to connect my desktop to my Router and it gives me a gigabit connection to my router.

How much speed increase you will see is going to depend on whether the 2/3mbps speed is a reduced speed from lower wireless signal. If your ISP is only giving you 2/3mbps then you won't see much improvement.

Hello, TELL me how to recover a large pst file??? ceased to OPEN the file. it all happened on Outlook 2007. decided to upgrade it to 2010. after upgrading to 2010 - at start-mail get an error that is not recognized by your private FOLDER ... or something like that. how to recover emails? what results solutions exist GUYS, any ideas?you helped me a lot! thanks)

try (KON BOOT ) SOFTWARE. ITS FREE OR BUY ONLY 15$

http://www.kon-boot.com/

Password recovery tools are often called "password cracker" tools because they are SOMETIMES used to "crack" passwords by hackers. Legally cracking or unlocking your own Windows password is certainly a legitimate practice!

one thing i want to clear that in side we have many cuts (joints) in telephone cable due to want more telephone connection. but these cuts are after a dsl splitter.

Im trying to help a friend install XP pro on his pc. Its been quite a while since ive monkeyd around with windows. I've been stuck on LINUX for a GOOD while. My question is what are the steps to change my Internet preferences from dial up to wireless. It's an old Dell inspirion 6000 and the DEFAULT is an MSN dial up. I'm lost1. Open Internet Explorer
2. On the IE menu bar, click Tools, then Internet Options
3. Under the Internet Option dialog box, click the Connections TAB and then the LAN Settings button.

Then click apply or ok and it should now be looking for a LAN connection through an ethernet Network adapter out to the internet.

The WiFi never worked to begin with, and I'm pretty sure it's because whoever corporate sent over to set it up had no idea what they were doing.

All the COMPUTERS are connected with a cable and have INTERNET
1 computer is connected to the router (Fortinet FortiWiFi 60D)
2 are connected to a switch connected to another switch connected to the router
and several printers are either connected to the router or to switches

I followed the directions.
-plug all the things in
-input the given IP into the browser to configure

I get an error saying the connection timed out or it just can't connect. From there, I checked what the computer's IP was and entered that instead and got the same results. Then I changed the settings to allow the IP and DNS addresses to be automatically assigned, same OUTCOME. FINALLY I changed to IP to match the one given on the router and still no luck.

If I TRY to plug in a different computer into the LAN 1, that computer loses internet access.

I have no idea why the problem exists, so of course I'm having trouble trying to solve it.

I'd appreciate any and all input!

Hello,

I want to apply for a job working from home however in the job advertisment it states you need hard wired internet and I have satellite. ADSL just isn't available at my home. Will they be able to tell my internet is satellite?

When I rang about the position the lady asked about my internet speed but not what internet i have.

Can anyone help me please? I don't want to waste my time or their time if it is a hopeless cause.

Thanks
JGHello, let me try to answer your question to the best of my ability.
I have been working in the electronics field for many many years and now I am retired. One of the things that I had to do was to help other people with computers and the Internet and things like that. In my activities I have one time had some work experiencing cable TV and later I had some opportunities to be involved in satellite communication. My basic background was in radio broadcasting and at one time I was a licensed broadcast engineer.
The reason for stating the above was so you understand that I have some years of experience in different kinds of activities that are considered to be important in modern-day technology. I suppose the job your applying for is a job-related to the new technological trends that have been occurring throughout the world. More and more business ACTIVITY is going to be conducted over the Internet in one form or the other. Perhaps the work at home job you have relates somehow to the expansion of Internet technology in general. Possibly some kind of a marketing operation that depends on reliable Internet connections.
Now then, having said that, let me offer an opinion. Most, almost all, employers will offer a job only upon a personal interview. In all my activities I have never received a job without actually having a face-to-face interview with the person that was going to hire me. Now that might change, but I don't think were quite there yet. Direct person-to-person interview is critical to an employer in making a decision that may cost him time and money. So far, the Internet offers more risk than gain when trying to hire people.
What I'm trying to say is this, you may find an advertisement over the Internet and make application by e-mail or even by a voice chat, but in the end of aface-to-face interview will be part of the deal. If they were to offer you a job without a face-to-face interview, I would be very RELUCTANT to take such a job. I would not want to work with someone that I had not actually talk to directly. Otherwise, the individual might be using the distance as a blind to what he really had in mind.
Now then after saying that, let me make some other remarks. Satellite Internet is excellent for download speeds and it can be very very reliable under most conditions. However, the upload speed is horrible. The upload is almost always through some type of telephone DSL connection. A few rare instances are satellite systems that have an upload provision. Upload satellite communication is very expensive and requires very sophisticated equipment. The only experience I've had in satellite communication was when the download was from the satellite but the upload we always did through ordinary telephone wires. In other words, a video chat interface is almost impossible using a telephone upload link unless you have an a very expensive and reliable DSL connection.
Without more details about your particular Internet connection, I would say it is not suitable for a video chat system. Here's my reasoning. A very reliable DSL connection costs almost as much as a satellite connection anyway, so there's almost no point of having a satellite download when you have a very good DSL connection. Also, what seems to be the trend now is to go toward more use of fiber optics and cell phone relays. In some areas the cell phones towers are directly fed by fiber optics and then the cell phone tower can make a wireless connection to your home at remarkably fast and reliable speeds. You might investigate to see if some type of 4G LTE service is available in your area. If so, it likely is more reliable and more suitable for an application that requires you to have video chat with the people you're talking to. Yes, I am guessing. I am guessing that the job would require you to interface with other people. With all the technology we have available to us, person to person contact is still the best thing there is. In fact, social media is so popular because it comes close to the direct presentation between two people. I'm imagining that they are asking you to sell some product or service by doing face-to-face interviews with people using video chat. Please correct me if I guessed wrong.
This is not intended to discouraging you from finding a suitable career that suits your needs. Rather, I am just trying to warn you about the pitfalls of making a quick decision about what sort of career you want to seek. Technology has many, many possible openings for people that wish to make the effort to do their best. Now having said that, even very ordinary jobs outside of modern technology still can be very productive and very rewarding depending on a person's circumstances and their personal temperament.
I do hope this is been some help to you. And by the way, most of this post was done was speech recognition, which is one of the advantages we now have with modern technology that could be done very well several years ago.
Work from Home usually includes connecting to an Office VPN network, in order to actually do work; that is, it makes it as if you are part of an "office LAN" and can use resources like say server shares and such. The reason why an ad might suggest a hard-lined Internet Connection is because Satellite and VPN are actually rather incompatible, which tends to result in a VPN connection over satellite performing very, very poorly- we're talking Dial-Up speeds.

Just for reference, I work from home and one of the "requirements" provided initially was to have a room I could use as a dedicated office. I didn't say I did but I didn't say I didn't- I just MADE it work. I moved my computer setup to a place with lower noise even if it was a common area, and "got away" with it.

Fact is, they are going to hire you largely based on how applicable you are for the Job. When, after the otherwise amazing interview, he asked if I had a dedicated office area, for a few moments I thought "there it is, well better luck next time I guess" and was thinking the same thing regarding wasted time. Thankfully I just answered that I did I made it work. I mean, it's not like they are going to personally review your work area or something.

Your situation sounds somewhat similar (perhaps a bit more extreme in how important a VPN connection is likely to be). It's not entirely unservicable, but it might be one of those things you have to make work out on your own. It may also depend a lot on specifically what sort of work is being done over said VPN.Thank you BC Programmer! That helped me understand. I'm going to apply and hope it all works. It's call centre work from home, mostly phone and chat.
My satellite speeds are fantastic and it's more reliable and faster than the adsl in my area.

Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. Will the calls be done over the internet? If so, Satellite may prove to be an issue here. With Satellite broadband you can get high speeds but the "latency" is very high, this is the time it takes a bit of data from your computer to get to the other end and back (due to the signals having to travel to a satellite and back down to earth). With normal internet browsing and downloading files it doesn't make a huge difference but it'll be very NOTICEABLE on calls as a delay between the person saying something and you hearing it. Think of a news report from a distant country where they are interviewing someone where there is a large delay between the person in the studio talking and the person abroad responding. Have you tried any sort of calling over your internet connection before (e.g. Skype), do you/the other person notice a significant delay? Live chat will probably be fine over satellite but for calling, you would probably be better off getting an ADSL line, even if you just use it for that - A SLOW (but low latency) ADSL line would likely handle calls better than a fast (but high latency) satellite connection.What Camerongray said is true.
Every phone call will have a time delay of about a quarter second.

Is there anyway around that???

Long shot but thought I'd ask Unfortunately not on a satellite connection. The bulk of the latency is down to the sheer distance the signal has to travel to/from the satellite.Hey again,

Can anyone tell me how to test my latency? Is that the ping?? What is a good speed? Or what speed would I need?
Thanks for answering my endless questions!!The result from speedtest.net will give a good enough indication. For phone calls you ideally want to keep it below 150ms, anything more than 250ms starts to become quite noticeable to callers.If they are willing to hire you and only your satellite connection is the issue, you may want to see if there are alternatives to satellite for you.

I've worked remotely for the past 10 years or so and only in the last 2 years have I had a "wired" connection as my "main" connection. For the 8 years prior, I lived in a rural area where there was no cable or DSL available. For part of that time I used a cellular connection to work remotely and that worked well but unless you have an unlimited data plan, it can get pretty expensive. Another alternative I used was what is called "Wireless Internet". It's basically long range wifi where a small directional antenna is placed on your roof and pointed to a transmitter miles away. I used that method the longest. It was pretty reliable but expensive. I've also worked remotely from hotels/motels using their wifi. All of these alternatives worked well with VPN and remote meeting software.

Since you will be working from home, one of the questions that you should ask during the interview is whether or not they will pay for, or at least subsidize, your internet connection costs.

Good luck in your job hunting!

I upgraded to higher fiber internet speed. The test on my computer is showing that the modem speed is as it should be:

160 Mbps

But my device (a gaming computer) is much slower:

66 Mbps

I'm using a wireless USB adapter. The model is DLink DWA-182C1

Do I need to upgrade something on my computer to get higher speed?I think we need some clarification. How many different computers are you talking about? How did you conduct these tests? When you did the test that showed 160 Mbps, were doing that via a wireless connection to your modem/router, or via Ethernet CABLE connected to your computer? Signal Strength will affect the sync speed. If the wireless connections signal is weaker than excellent then it will sync at a slower speed to maintain a handshake. How strong is signal strength.

Also what make/model is the gaming computer or if custom build, all the specs of it?I did several tests on different websites (like http://testmy.net/) and I did a test on my internet provider website (Bell). This test show the actual speed of my modem (it's somewhere inside a WALL) and the speed of my device (my PC). I have to use wireless connection.

I phoned my provider and they said it's not the fault of the modem, because the speed is good, so the problem must be my hardware.

My signal strength look good (see attatchement)

My computer is this one:

http://69.16.194.131/prod/MTg5NzUyNDQz/iBUYPOWER-Desktop-PC-Gamer-Supreme-NE985SLC-Intel-Core-i7-3770k-40350-GHz41-16-GB-DDR3-2-TB-HDD-Windows-7-Home-Premium-64Bit



[attachment DELETED by admin to conserve space]Please try connecting directly with an ethernet cable and doing the test again. You may be pleasantly surprised by the result...Quote

my modem (it's somewhere inside a wall)

Well, we've gone a bought a new desktop pc - ASUS G11, well fitted out.

Now we have a whole lot of program downloading to do.

I get my internet connection through an ATT U-verse interface box.

What would be the difference in download speed (time) operating wireless thru the Homegroup Network verses connecting hardwire to the ATT box?

Is it significant enough to bother hooking up the wire? Depends how many people use the wireless...

But in general terms wireless...even if it's just you can expect a 8 - 12% difference from hardwired in most casesQuote from: patio on March 29, 2017, 03:05:34 PM

a 8 - 12% difference from hardwired in most cases

...
I get my internet connection through an ATT U-verse interface box.
What would be the difference in download speed (time) operating wireless thru the Homegroup Network verses connecting hardwire to the ATT box?
...

4G LTE vs. cable. Verizon 4G LTE wireless broadband is 10 times faster than 3G—able to handle download speeds between 5 and 12 Mbps (Megabits per second) and upload speeds between 2 and 5 Mbps, with peak download speeds approaching 50 Mbps. Cable speeds vary, but 4 to 12 Mbps are common

DSL, or Digital Subscriber Line, is a step above this. Its speeds can range from approximately 128 Kbps to 9 megabits per second (Mbps). Cable Internet provides speeds up to approximately 30 Mbps, although the speeds are not always consistent. Oftentimes, speeds drop during peak Internet hours.Nov 5, 2015

Comcast XFINITY has more options for internet service than competitors, but its support could use improvement. If you have the know-how to set up and service your internet, Comcast is more than appealing—its prices are low, and it has plans with download speeds ranging from 10 Mbps to 2,000 Mbps.Jul 28, 2016

I RECEIVE my INTERNET through time warner cable. I have wifi that my phones and laptops use. I have Ethernet cable that my main computer in the office uses. I have a second computer in the basement that I would like to have on the internet. Rather than stringing a second Ethernet cable down there (because the computer doesn't have wifi) I would rather use some sort of wifi USB "stick" to connect via wifi.

I confirmed with my cable company that the cable box for my computer/internet is a gateway wifi router.

Any SUGGESTIONS or recommendations? Thanks!I'd survey the basement to make sure wireless devices can handshake from the location you plan to use it at. And then get a USB wireless stick knowing that the wireless signal there should work. Do you have a SMARTPHONE of some other way to test wireless signal strength for the location that you plan to use?

I have used USB Wireless Adapters before and some are good and some are junk. The one that I had the best luck with is this one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833315091You should get a PowerLine Network Adapter. This may solve your problem.I ended up getting a $9.00 usb wifi adapter and it worked! It took a while to get the correct driver loaded but after that it was a breeze.

This has annjoiedmefor a lomng time.
It is NOT int he documentaiontaht comes will my router.
SoI hadtoGoolge it.
Quote

Wireless asking for “Device Ownership Password” To fix this: Go to Control Panel -> Add/Remove Programs (or Programs and FEATURES) -> Intel(R) PROSet/Wireless SOFTWARE -> Modify -> Then UNcheck Wi-Fi Protected Setup. After doing that, you will be able to connect with just the normal router password!Jan 30, 2012

My wireless Netgear AR65 router was connected to my PC with wire to SECURE my data. After buying Laptop I couldn't find any socket at both sides to make the router connected.
Any solution or should I buy new laptop?Laptops often connect with with wireless.
For Windows 10 you would connect to a wireless network this way:
To access the network SETTINGS, click the "Network settings" link (refer to the previous image). Or launch the Settings app and navigate to "Network & Internet". In the Wi-Fi section, you'll find all the wireless networks available to you (this is new to Windows 10), which is the same list you see in the system TRAY....
http://www.windowscentral.com/how-manage-wireless-network-connections-windows-10
Did you already do that?


What is the make and MODEL of your laptop? Did you not know its specifications when you bought it?

Can anyone recommend a network deployment system?

Looking for something that could deploy software to multiple computers around a network rather going to each computer to install.Maybe what you are thinking about is deployment of software over a network.
If the company has the proper license, they can automate the installation of software over the local network at TIME when there is little activity.
To start, you can try reading some MATERIAL from Microsoft.
https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb742421.aspx
Step-by-Step GUIDE to Software Installation and MAINTENANCE
Quote

Introduction

This document is part of a set of step-by-step guides that introduce the Change and Configuration Management FEATURES of the Windows® 2000 operating system. This guide presents an overview of Software Installation and Maintenance. It also explains how to use the Software Installation extension of the Group Policy Microsoft Management Console snap-in to specify policy settings for application deployment for groups of users and computers.

I need to change Captel Wi-Fi password on my router. Router is not provided by my ISP, so the Captel customer service could not help. TP LINK didn't have my router MODEL listed on their forum. The password on the router is not the same as the login on my pc. Anyone else have this problem ? Any help appreciated !

Lenovo 515 Windows 8Router could always be set back to factory with pushing in the microbutton and powering up router with button held in. Then the default password that is on it should work to get into it.

If your INTERNET is 192.168.1.x network then the router should be 192.168.1.1 in which through browser you can enter that IP address and then it should prompt for username and password as indicated on the sticker on the router. *If someone flashed this with DD-WRT then the password will not be the same as factory password.

I do not have Skype.
And I don't know much about the Apple video conference thing.
But would like to know what free things are available that can be used within Android or maybe a Windows desktop.
Just now I saw a post that says Skype has gotten better. Is that TRUE?
What about Google Hangouts?
Or, maybe GoToMeeting?
Walt else?
What works for you?
Also, do I need specail HARDWARE?If you're asking about ways to get some "facetime" with someone. Facebook's Messenger app is one way to do this on your Android phone.

If you're asking about a video CONFERENCING app, meaning a way to communicate with a group, rather than an individual, Zoom is an option I am familiar with. A free version can be used for sessions up to 40 MINUTES. For paid versions that offer longer sessions and other benefits, see https://zoom.us/pricing

Hi!

How do I cascade these two routers? 1. netgear wnr 3500Lv2 2. ASUS RT-AC68U

Alternatively, how do I create a static routes between 2 pcs on different subnets?

SEE link or attached IMAGE for my network diagram https://goo.gl/N5Tsd3

I have two routers to cover my home because the wifi doesn't cut it, I want to go to wires... One is a netgear wnr3500Lv2. This is set as the primary router with DHCP ethernet in from ISP (in the hallway). The other is an asus RT-AC68U. A much better router with good wifi range and features (in the lounge).

The problem is that I have tried to cascade the router but the asus router insists on automatically creating a different subnet. Complains of an IP conflict, even though I made sure to turn off DHCP, set router operating mode and set IP to a free static address on the primary netgear router...

So,

How do get Laptop 1 to see gaming PC?
a) change subnet and cascade routers. Problem see text above.
b) static routing, not sure how to do...
c) other.

Thanks for the help!

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Rather than having a second router you should really just be using a plain access point which won't do all of this. In order to use the hardware you have, what you WOULD need to do is DISABLE DHCP on the ASUS and assign it a static IP in the same subnet as the Netgear. Then plug the Netgear into one of the ASUS's LAN ports (not the WAN one). This will mean the Netgear will handle DHCP for the entire network and the ASUS will behave as a basic access point.@camerongray Thanks for the reply. Tried this already, see above ^^

Quote

The problem is that I have tried to cascade the router but the asus router insists on automatically creating a different subnet. Complains of an IP conflict, even though I made sure to turn off DHCP, set router operating mode and set IP to a free static address on the primary netgear router...

Was over at my PARENTS house and daughter was trying to connect her android tablet to their wireless using password that was correct. It wouldnt connect. They claimed that the 2.4Ghz wireless doesnt authenticate but that the 5Ghz does. They have a dual-band router that serves up both the 2.4 and 5Ghz. My daughters tablet only supports connecting to 2.4Ghz wireless network or older. So she was able to see the 2.4Ghz connection but unable to authenticate... Question I have is, do Dual-Band Routers really have 2 different passwords for each band or is their router messed up for the 2.4Ghz band? They CLAIM that they havent been able to connect to the 2.4Ghz band. I didnt take the time to GO and troubleshoot their router. I think it was set up by the cable company.Im fairly certain they can have 2 different passwords. Can you log into the router and change the settings?It would help to know the make and model of the router.
Under special circumstances a router could be set up like that kinda. At a technical level they definitely could have separate passwords but it's highly unlikely, I've never seen it done before (and can't think why you would want such a setup)Quote

At a technical level they definitely could have separate passwords but it's highly unlikely, I've never seen it done before (and can't think why you would want such a setup)

Wireless access point
The wireless access point is the heart of your wireless network. The wireless access point:
 Connects different wireless clients.
 Secures the data sent over wireless connection.

The Gateway has two access points:
 A 5 GHz (3X3) IEEE 802.11ac access point that offers superior transfer rates, is less sensitive to interference and allows you to connect IEEE802.11a/n/ac wireless clients.
 A 2.4 GHz (3x3) IEEE 802.11n access point that allows you to connect IEEE802.11b/g/n wireless clients. Use this access point for wireless clients that don’t support 5 GHz.
Wireless client

The wireless client allows you to connect a wireless client to a wireless access point. Both built-in and external (for example via USB) wireless clients are available.
Check the documentation of your computer if you are not sure if your computer is equipped with a wireless client.
Configuring your wireless clients
For more information on how to establish a wireless connection to the Gateway, see:
...
“2.4.1 How to connect your wireless client via WPS” on page 20

“2.4.2 How to manually connect your wireless client” on page 22
If you want to connect your wireless client to the 5 GHz access point, make sure that your wireless client supports 5 GHz
connections

Quote from: bob1286 on January 04, 2016, 04:26:14 PM

How this is diagramed

AHHHHH I'm an idiot! Sorry, that was my mistake, I read that as "How is this diagrammed" and therefore explained how I made the diagram! D'OH!

So what is the server running? Is this set up as a network where the client PCs are joined to the same domain as the server and use it for things like active directory and file storage? Is there anything else special running on the server? You should just be able to reconfigure the IP addresses and subnet on the server to match the subnet that the rest of the systems are on. Is this not working?

I have one of these drives CONNECTED too a switch which, branches off into the machine I have the software installed on and a Server. It keeps saying that the drive is not connected though, it's powered on and connected.How are you setting the IP address on the drive? Is there a DHCP server on the network?

Can you ping the network drive? What if you enter the drive's IP address into a browser, is there any sort of web interface?I was able too through some stored settings some where. The Server issues DHCP but, it's not all WAYS connected too it. I have the IP Address of the drive now but, when I connect it too other MACHINES and run the software it doesn't see the drive at all.

Windows 7
TP Link Router TL-WR841N

This problem started a few days ago. It started intermittently but it has worsened and is now constant. I start an online game and when I PRESS a control there is a delay or just no response. Or it works for a few MINUTES, then problems start back up again. It is only on my computer, which is custom BUILT with a MSI Motherboard I-5 Intel processor and Nvidia 660 graphics card. Other devices on the network are working fine, particularly one other desktop which is constantly running online games with no issues.
I constantly run speed tests with good results. Currently 46ms ping, 15.88 Mbps download speed, and 5.15 Mbps upload speed. The speed is capable of going higher but I limit it to allow for equal use over all devices on the router.
I have tried shutting off antivirus and disabling windows firewall. I have tried adjusting the wireless settings on my router (changing the mode and channel).
I am unable to do a system restore because my computer is not SAVING system restore points for more than a day or two. (Another problem, but not the current issue.)
I am no computer expert, but I manage to get things done normally. But at this point I am at a loss.
Well no one answered this post but I will tell my solution anyway. I am not going to go into detail of how someone did it, but someone was messing with my connection. I am 99 percent sure it was someone else that used my network (because of my findings).
Like I said, I don't want to go into detail of how they did it, because I don't want other people learning anything about it to do it to someone else.

But the solution was to change my MAC address, and I will KEEP changing it if and when the problem pops up again.
So before you try reinstalling windows, and any other solution try changing your mac address first.

what do you do if it asks for password or username?You have to get a username and password. Exactly, just ask for the wifi password wherever you are, e.g. in a cafe.This list is now rather old, but might help some.
http://lifehacker.com/all-the-national-chains-that-offer-free-wi-fi-1646148637
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With that in mind, we've decided to compile a list of all the different chains that offer free Wi-Fi. If you're INTERESTED in speed, McDonald's is the most consistent of the bunch, but BEST Buy isn't far behind. Nearly all of these just require you to agree to a terms of service, but you won't need a password. We'll keep updating this list as we find more options, so be sure keep an eye on it (and if you know of any we missed, let US know in the comments below). Don't FORGET to stay safe on those public networks, either

I have misplaced my wifi card for my PC when I recently moved home. I am currently USING a Windows 8.1 tablet. I do not have a micro HDMI cable to connect the tablet to the monitor.

1 # Am I able to use my tablet as the wifi connection for my PC?

2# Can I connect the tablet via MICRO USB to USB - which I have the adapte for - to the PC so that my tablet screen appears on the monitor (instead of using a HDMI wire)?

3# My final option, I have an Android phone but the power goes down quick. I believe it has a tethering option so I assume this will work if I use the MICRO USB to USB on my PC. If I do, will this keep the Android phone charging whilst its CONNECTED?

My tablet is LINX8 32bit intel atom1gb

I would have tested these options already however my PC is currently in storage and I only want to go pick it up if I can use it to go online with or use the monitor to display my tablet screen.

Using my tablet is suffice but I have been connecting my full size keyboard to it, and my mouse to my keyboard (which has 3 USB ports) and the power on the tablet doesnt last very long so I usually have around 1 hr of keyboard use, and then over 3 hours to fully charge the tablet.

I am on a budget so I am TRYING to avoid buying any new items. If the above options wont work, what will be the CHEAPEST method - to buy a wireless USB card or to buy a MICRO HDMI cable?

I apologise if I have made this sound confusing, I'm terrible when it comes to reading or writing anything technical so I hope anyone reading this can actually understand me.

RegardsFrom what you have described, you want to connect your PC to the Internet but you have missed placed the external adapter used to connect your desktop computer to the Internet.
A desktop computer or laptop computer running the current version of Microsoft Windows can look to the Internet by using a hotspot on an android or Apple device. Also, there are hotspot software apps available on the Windows store for Windows tablets.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/p/hotspot/9nblggh08s4q

Some android phones have a built-in hotspots feature as part of the standard android package. You should be able to find it under the settings menu.
Also, both USB and Bluetooth tethering are useful options.
From GOOGLE:
Search Results
Follow these steps to set up Internet tethering:
Connect the phone to a computer or laptop by using the USB cable. ...
Open the Settings app.
Choose More, and then choose Tethering & Mobile Hotspot.
Place a check mark by the USB Tethering item.

Here are some links about how to use USB tethering to establish an Internet connection.
http://www.dummies.com/consumer-electronics/smartphones/droid/how-to-tether-an-internet-connection-with-an-android-phone/
(Dud not mean to call you a dummy.)

https://www.quora.com/How-can-I-use-Android-USB-tethering-in-Windows-7-to-connect-computer-to-Internet-via-phones-data-connection

This video is for Windows 10. (Skip the Ad.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyBS3rVTxxU
Hope that helps.

is there a WAY to DISCONNECT internet access to a Windows 10 computer but keep it onto a LAN?If you don't want any machines on the internet you can simply disconnect the router/modem from the network. If you only want to disconnect the Windows 10 machine the simplest method WOULD be to go into the IP address settings and remove the "DEFAULT Gateway" which would prevent the machine connecting outwith the LAN.Yeah I just want that one machine... can you give me instructions to remove the Default Gateway. Cant seem to find it.
Thanks

In a SIMPLE setup of networking between a laptop and a desktop, does each pc have to have different names, or could or should they be identical? I asked,caused i was always under the impression that each pc, HAD to have different names in the event one wanted to share files and etc. A recent talk with a tech, said that both should have the same name. ..now, I am confused.Not a NETWORK expert but,

Make sure that both machines are using the same "workgroup name." Both machines need to use a different machine name or they won't show up.

I believe that's what the tech meant when he said use the same name.You want two computers on the network to have the same name?
Why not just use names that are different?
But if needed, it can be done.
[ur=]https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/ec1b2c00-32c3-4901-abb3-7deb53cd541d/join-network-computers-in-the-domain-with-same-name?forum=winserverDS]Join network computers in the domain with same name[/url]
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..... we are replacing some 70 desktop & laptop according to company policy for aged hardware. The new machines must have the same name as the old. What would be the best way to remove the old from the domain and add the new with the same name.
Meaning I could go into every old computer and delete the object and then join the new with same name, move it to the appropriate OU etc. Is there any shortcut, like can you prestage a computer with a name of an existing one or 'reset' a computer and then join another pc with the same name?... /quote]

You want two computers on the network to have the same name?

... when I click on the wi-fi icon in my task bar of my desktop, the name of the laptop appears, which says i am connected. ...

There is no "quick way" to do it. If you change the ssid of your router (login to router's admin page to change it) and you will need to reconnect any wireless devices. If you don't want to change the ssid of the router, change the name of your desktop computer.

Hi,

I have 3 PC's on my network, 2 laptops on wifi and a desktop that's WIRED. The one laptop (Aspire E1-570) constantly loses connection every 2 hours or so, while the other computers have no PROBLEMS at all. What I'm not understanding is that when it loses wifi connection, a wired connection will not WORK either, until I restart the computer.

I have tried formatting it, resetting the router to factory, DISABLING the firewall, changing encryption mode. Nothing seems to work. I have upgraded this PC from Win 8 to Win 10 about a year ago. There were no problems until recently. I do not install the network drivers manually, I allow Windows to find them. Acer doesn't have Win 10 drivers for me to try.

If someone could offer some suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.Could it be a power save mode thats kicking on trying to save battery life when idle and inactive? That is, does this ever happen right in the middle of using it, or always after its left idle and you go back to it?

It might be as simple as shutting off the power saves features in power management so that the network adapters never get put into a sleep state which there might be a bug as to why it doesnt come back out of sleep state for hardware until reboot.Thank you for the reply Dave. It does seem to cut out when I'm not using it. I'm not sure why it would all of a sudden become a PROBLEM now, but I will turn off power saving mode and report back. Thanks again.

My sister has a old laptop NEC Versa E6300 which cannot connect to almost all wifi connections or hotspots.

Whenever it tries to connect to either public/home/office wifi, or hotspot from a Huawei Mobile hotspot, her LG PHONE's hotspot, or iPhone 6 Plus's hotspot, it shows "LOCAL only" and cannot connect to the internet.

Weird enough, the only connection that works so far is the hotspot shared from my iPhone 6.

Also, if the laptop is connected to the home/office modem or the Huawei mobile modem using LAN cable, then the connection is working fine as usual.

While I suspect it's the laptop's wireless receiver/adapter at fault, but how it oddly can connect to my iPhone 6's hotspot then?

Thanks. What wireless adapter is she using.. make/model?

I have seen older Wireless B adapters have issues for example with modern hotspots. It might be as simple as getting a newer wireless adapter which its probably plugged into your USB port, however some laptops can TAKE an internal card, but then need the antenna fished into it.The wireless adapter is Atheros AR5006EG Wireless Network Adapter.

But if the wireless adapter is faulty, should it be UNABLE to connect to any wireless connection, or inconsistently connect to some and not other? In her case, the laptop can always connect to my iPhone 6's hotspot, and not others.

Btw, I notice there is entry under the Network adapters in Device Manager which has a yellow triangular exclamation mark, it reads "Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface".