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A friend asked me about HELPING put up a small wireless network for his business.  There will no be no INTERNET connection just file and printer sharing between 3 or 4 desktops and 2 or 3 laptops with a mix of Windows 98, Windows XP and maybe Windows 2000.  I was thinking about using Network Magic software to simplify things.  Do I just use a wireless router and adapter cards or is there something else I need to know?http://www.google.com/search?q=set+up+a+wireless+network&start=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official

Alan <><  
That's the first thing I did, a search on Google but they all assume I want to connect to the Internet.  I don't.  I GUESS that's what I really WANTED to ask....is everything the same just with no connection to the Internet?You can still use a router, you just won't be using the WAN port/settings on it. This is the easiest way of doing it so that you can use DHCP.

The rest is the same.  

Don't FORGET to secure it, though. Use WPA-PSK / AESThanks for the help.  I'm not a network guy but that's what I figured.  Thanks again.Isn't Network Magic free for a bit and then they charge you?Yes.

What is the range of a wireless NET work compared to a hard wired network.Hard wired is effective up to about 300 ft.
Wireless depending on equipment used, enviornment, and other variables can go over 2 miles.

Rob our network guru will probably be along to provide more INFO.Well... Are you talking about a HOME network?
There are tests made on Tom's Hardware. For a wireless network, you can USE your computers for a distance of approximatively 30-50 meters from AP. If you are lucky.
For a wired network, you can use your computers for a distance of 100 meters from hub/switch/router (I am talking about Ethernet, with cat 5 cable).
If we are talking about an industrial LAN... Well, we are talking about much extended networks.
Why do you ask? Quote

Rob our network guru will probably be along to provide more info.

These video conference apps can help you
Now stay at home and do BUSINESS or keep in touch.

FaceTime. WORKS on Apple devices.

Skype. Microsoft program with versions for  Android and Apple also.

Zoom. New and rising. Great for a club or church.

Here is a up-to-date round up of these three.
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/zoom-skype-facetime-11-great-tips-to-make-video-calls-actually-fun/
Millions of PEOPLE working from home and practicing social distancing to avoid coronavirus are taking advantage of free video chat apps to stay in touch with coworkers, friends and family. But staring at your own face framed by your messy living room or plain home office on the screen can get dull -- for you and for them.

IMO it is never easy - unless you are a TEEN age wonder.
But it is FUN!   

Question. Why is it hard for me  me?

This is turning into a contentious issue with my girlfriend.

We live in a large apartment building and pay for "300 Internet". Presume that's 300Mbs.

She is having a lot of trouble with all of her video calls - Zoom, Teams chiefly.

When I run speedtest.net I get speeds between 55 Mbps to 145 Mbps (more frequently in the 55 range) download and pretty consistently between 10.5 and 12 Mbps uploads. Two questions:

1) Shouldn't that be enough? She is getting lots of grief that no one can hear her, her video's breaking up, etc.

2) Intuitively, I understand why I'm paying for one speed but my "real" speed - by the time it makes it into the building's MDF and splits into the different IDF's throughout the building the speed gets stepped down, and the more users in the building the slower it is. But her boss isn't accepting that. (He claims he is getting full Gig speed whenever he runs speedtest. Now, he's not in our building, but still... He's her boss.) So how can I explain it?

Are there solutions that don't involve her moving? Or getting fired?Her videos breaking up or losing audio would be rather unrelated to your download speed because that is data being *uploaded*.

It definitely has absolutely nothing to do with her bosses download speed. That is like if she complained about a 2 hour commute and he said that it only takes him 5 minutes to get home so stop lying.

Anywho, Usual rule is to not use more than half the upload bandwidth for a video/audio stream. That puts it at about 5.25mbps.

There should be settings to adjust regarding the quality of the video/audio being uploaded, those should be adjusted to 720p at 30fps.
Right... Intuitively I knew "Upload" was the piece, but her IT folks keep asking her her download speeds.

Is there a place where I can find that "rule" re: adjusting settings, etc.

(I like your metaphor, but if you showed up an hour 55 late for work every day, the boss would say something. And if you replied, "There's nowhere else to live!" he could point to the billboard on his roof that reads "If you lived here you'd be home by now." Or something. I don't know).The "rule" is more applied sensibility. Upload and download speeds are variable, and will fluctuate based on the traffic on the drop node itself being used for Internet service. Relying on the quoted or even tested performance for a video/audio stream means if the capability drops below the necessary bitrate, the video upload will drop frames or audio. Halving the determined speed is mostly intended to ensure there is headroom.

Quick Edit: It also seems likely that the resolution settings might be determined by the software doing it's own speed test and for whatever reason it chose 1080p which the setup is capable of only in ideal conditions.It also appears that you can't change resolution settings in MSFT Teams.

And since our big blowup this morning, I have yet to get above 12 Mbps on SpeedTest. The gods HATE me.Hi

How are you connecting to the router with NETWORK cables or wireless. I would try your Girlfriends laptop /computer with an Ethernet cable from the laptop to the router. If this isn't possible try and get as close to the router as possible with the best signal also leave your computer off when doing this test. Then try the MSFT Teams.
If it is improved or the problem is solved then it is a connection between the computer and the router. If it is wireless then using something like wireshark from here

https://www.wireshark.org/

This could help in finding if it is a signal,INTERFERENCE or poor signal are the problem.

Either way more detail of the modem router model and method of connection between the effected computer and the router would help.Everything connects wirelessly - my PC, her PC, our phones, iPads, etc. So all tests/comparisons are wireless.

Bought a dongle and CAT5, so will see what's going on there.

She is literally in the same room, less than six feet from the router, it sits behind a cabinet and she sits to its side. (She complains about the blinking lights).

The router is about 6 months old, Netgear Nighthawk
https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/cable-modems-routers/C7000.aspx

As the computer is so close I would be interested if the Cat5 cable makes a difference.She has been convinced that it is because she has a four year old Surface.

She is also convinced that when she stops watching other people, but she has her camera on it's better.

That seems counterintuitive to me. ON Camera and ON Microphone both occupy the same Upload Speed space.
And can somebody just tell me - why isn't an Upload Speed of 11 Mbps cutting it? Everyone she talks to keeps TELLING her she "has" to have Gig connection to pull off Zoom, BlueJean, Skype, Teams.

(Plugged directly into modem the speeds are about the same)Which speed tester are you using. Have you tried a different one? Maybe your speed tester is inaccurate? You should only need a basic 5Mbps broadband speed to get a good reliable zoom chatSimilar issues. 8-12Mbs upload, buffering, no one could hear. Cut the cable and paid for a fiber connection. My DL is slower, but my UL is in the 60-90 range.

Hi everyone,

I have an old router. It is TL-WR841N V11.
I want to USE it to receive and replay the wireless network(NAT, not Brigde) as the 'mobile hotspot' function on win 10.
I tried different ways to turn the router into a repeater, but it does not WORK like the 'mobile hotspot' of win 10. 
Is there any way to do this?
PLEASE everyone HELP!!!
(My English skills are not good. If anything goes wrong, I'm SORRY about that!)

Question:
VoIP,  Skype or audio streaming for a Church.

Which of these kind of services could reuse?
 Face-time
 Skype
 VoIP
 TELEPHONE conference
.
Here is the scenario. At the present time many organizations are looking to break up large meetings into smaller groups. I'm sure you know why. In the month of April many people will come together because of customs that are associated with the spring. There is Easter celebrated in Christendom and the passover is celebrated in Judaism. And besides that many people in other places just like to do things in a group and especially when the weather is better. ALTHOUGH the weather is better, current conditions limit large crowds in some places. Here in the United States that has been a limit put on large crowds in confined areas.
Now then, you SEE what I'm getting at. Some clubs, churches and other groups want to form small groups and individual homes to listen to a program over a telephone conference. All right, but a telephone conference can be hard to organize and perhaps even rather expensive. But it is convenient, all you have to do is dial in and listen on your speakerphone.
Videoconferencing is not really important for most people, although it does help if you can see the man who is speaking. But that usually requires somebody who is good with the camera and can keep the camera on whoever's speaking at the time. So something less than videoconferencing might be a better CHOICE. I guess this some kind of audio streaming a person can use, something like a podcast. But this should not actually be a podcast, it's more like a live audio feed. I admit I have no experience at all with live audio feeds using the Internet. And I know that getting the phone company and on it is rather expensive. For commercial company such as a television or radio station, the cost is something the figure into the business plan. In this case I'm thinking about nonprofit organizations, such as our congregation or next month.
So what kind of service would be suitable to feed audio in of individual homes using preferably the Internet instead of the telephone system. My experience with telephone conferencing is that if more than just a three or four people are listening into a conference it becomes rather wild and hard to organize without professional help. So I was thinking that some kind of audio streaming over the Internet might be a better idea.

Any suggestions please?
End of dictation.Hi, unless I am going mad and forgot to click SUBMIT my post was removed?  Not sure why? I know it's an old post but thought this might help you if you are still in lock down with your church. I did find a good article on it but cannot find it now. But if you google "Free conference call" they have an audio solution to your church audio problem.

Hi everyone,

My office laptop disconnects frequently from my home WiFi whereas my personal laptop has no problem.
One strange thing is, once my office laptop is disconnected, all other devices like MOBILE phones, etc. stop working. They show "No Internet" message. You won't be able to browse internet on them.

So far, I have tried to
Uncheck the checkbox - "Allow computer to turn off this device to save power" for the Wireless adapter.
But no effect.

Updated all the drivers - no effect.

Is there anything that I should try now?

Office laptop configuration - Dell Latitude 5590, Windows 10 Enterprise 64 bit
It also has Cisco AnyConnect that is USED to connect to office WiFi in all office premises.

WiFi Router - TP-LINK TL-WR841NHi 
I want to share with you my vbscript in order to create a shortcut on the desktop for Network Diagnostics in order to fix my internet connection.
This vbscript is tested by me only on my Windows 10 (32 bits).
Just give a try and tell me if the problem was solved or not ?

How to use this vbscript ?
Just open your Notepad or Notepad++ and copy and paste this code below and save it as : Network_Diagnostics.vbs and run it by double click, so you will get a shortcut on your desktop for running Network Diagnostics in order to fix some issues that can be encountred when trying to connect to the internet !
NB : You can also run this TOOL with this hotkey combination : CTRL+ALT+D

Network_Diagnostics.vbs
Code: [SELECT]Option Explicit
' Vbscript Created by Hackoo on 09/06/2020 16:00
' Tested only on Windows 10 (32 bits)
Dim Title : Title = "Shortcut Creator for Network Diagnostics by Hackoo 2020"
 
Call Create_Shortcut(_
    "NetworkDiagnostics",_
    "%SystemRoot%\system32\msdt.exe",_
    "-skip TRUE -path %Windir%\diagnostics\system\networking -ep NetworkDiagnosticsPNI",_
    "%SystemRoot%\system32\msdt.exe,0",_
    "Network Diagnostics to fix problems",_
    "CTRL+ALT+D"_
)
 
MsgBox "The shortcut was created successfully on your desktop !" &AMP; vbCrlf &_
"Le raccourci a été créé avec succès sur votre bureau !" & vbcrlf &_
"تم إنشاء الاختصار بنجاح على سطح المكتب الخاص بك !",vbInformation,Title
'---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sub Create_Shortcut(ShortcutName,TargetPath,Arguments,IconLocation,Description,HotKey)
    Dim objShell,DesktopPath,objShortCut
    Set objShell = CreateObject("WScript.Shell")
    DesktopPath = objShell.SpecialFolders("Desktop")
    Set objShortCut = objShell.CreateShortcut(DesktopPath & "\" & ShortcutName & ".lnk")
    objShortCut.TargetPath = chr(34) & TargetPath & chr(34)
    objShortCut.Arguments = Arguments
    ObjShortCut.IconLocation = IconLocation
    ObjShortCut.Description = Description
    ObjShortCut.HotKey= HotKey
    objShortCut.Save
End Sub
'--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For any update of this vbscript you will find it here

I did it what you told me to do for network diagnostics. But, I still having the problem.
Please suggest...

I will try to write you a batch script to Reset the connection and flush DNS cache and we try with it ; if the problem is still there , you should update the drivers !

Which hosting provider can I use to host my website at very low costs in 2020?Depends on what type of website you want to run. Is this going to be an e-commerce website where you have online store and require a point of sale back end with secure transactions or are you simply wanting to have an information type of web page hosted for something that your not charging for a service or product and so security for point of sale doenst have to be there.

There are free hosts out there that are ad supported but I would advise avoiding those as you usually end up with a very lengthy URL path to website that is sub-domained like some web-host providers website URL with a / your website name.

For paid hosting I have used GoDaddy before and liked what they had to offer for the cost and they were a reliable web site hosting provider.

It all comes down to what type of website, how much traffic you expect to have, and what features and security REQUIREMENTS you have for your website, and then if you want to try to save money by going with a lesser known or potentially unrealiable host or pay a fair PRICE for a reliable host. And lastly a host provider who can dynamically adjust to your needs to where if you require more bandwidth of concurrent connections to your website that you can pay for a higher tier of service that can dedicate more web host server power to your website loading quickly from PEOPLE visiting. Some providers you can contact and pay for more bandwidth and more back end server power to keep your website operating HEALTHY and quick to visitors. This is especially if you have downloads or streaming of content of any kind from your site.Personally i would go for https://www.ionos.co.uk/hosting/web-hosting#packages 1 year for £1. Has everything you need for a business website with cheap optional extras and 99.9% uptime. Used personally in the past and recommend it.

So I am currently using a hotspot at my address so that I have connectivity on my gaming PC, MacBook and PS4. For some Unknown reason my MacBook and PS4 connection is running FAST and smoothly. But with my PC that is not the case. I have a iPhone X which is giving me about 3 Mbps which is really good but my PC seems to only be getting max 500 Kbps. Which is rubbish. I have tried most things to fix this issue like only having my PC CONNECTED to the hotspot, No difference, Moving my phone to various places around my house because I have recently moved. That didn't work. It doesn't make sense. Does anyone know of a fix or anyway I can make my Hotspot work much more quicker or maybe EVEN go though a potential fix for this. Thanks guys What is your model of your PC?

Or, if you built it yourself - what model is the motherboard?The Motherboard is a Acer Vention I think so its a pretty old mother board and no I did not build the pc myself, I was using hotspot at my old house and I had less 4g SIGNAL and I was getting 1 Mbps which is weird.
If it's an older computer/mobo, check the MANUAL and verify the maximum speed of the onboard wifi

The specs:
SkyTech Blaze II Gaming Computer PC Desktop
Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6-Core 3.4 GHz (3.9 GHz Max Boost) processor
Motherboard: A320 Motherboard
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6GB Video Card (Brand may vary)
Memory: 16GB DDR4 3000 Gaming Memory with Heat Spreader
Power Supply: 550 Watt 80 PLUS Certified Power Supply
SSD: 500GB SSD – Up to 30x Faster Than Traditional HDD
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64-bit
Case: Skytech mATX Mid-Tower Tempered Glass Gaming Case
Fans: 3 x 120mm Ring RGB Fans
The network adapters in device manger says:
Realtek 8821CE Wireless Lan 802.11ac PCI-E NIC

Realtek PCLe GbE Family Controller.
And a bunch of miniports (I'm not too savy in thsi stuff).

Edit: Oh and network specs

Name: Ethernet
Description: Realtek PCIe GbE Family Controller
Physical address (MAC): f4:b5:20:29:e3:3b
Status: Operational
Maximum transmission unit: 1500
Link speed (Receive/Transmit): 1000/1000 (Mbps)
DHCP enabled: Yes
DHCP servers: 142.254.129.129
DHCP lease obtained: ‎Tuesday, ‎August ‎18, ‎2020 8:03:12 PM
DHCP lease expires: ‎Wednesday, ‎August ‎19, ‎2020 2:48:11 PM
IPv4 address: 68.206.116.40/23
IPv6 address: 2605:6000:ffc0:62:1901:3e5:5bbd:57d9/128, fe80::c055:d3f7:53ca:2708%5/64
Default gateway: fe80::217:10ff:fe86:bddf%5, 68.206.116.1
DNS servers: 209.18.47.61, 209.18.47.63
DNS domain name: austin.rr.com
DNS connection suffix: austin.rr.com
DNS search suffix list:
Network name: Network 2
Network category: Public
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6): Connected to Internet


Name: Wi-Fi
Description: Realtek 8821CE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCI-E NIC
Physical address (MAC): c0:e4:34:83:77:c9
Status: Not operational
Maximum transmission unit: 1500
IPv4 address: 169.254.107.129/16
IPv6 address: fe80::5a:556c:4306:6b81%15/64
DNS servers: 192.168.1.1
DNS connection suffix: austin.rr.com
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6): Disconnected


Name: Local Area Connection* 9
Description: Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter
Physical address (MAC): C2:e4:34:83:77:c9
Status: Not operational
Maximum transmission unit: 1500
IPv4 address: 169.254.131.7/16
IPv6 address: fe80::ad3f:420e:aa20:8307%6/64
DNS servers: fec0ShockedShocked:FFFF::1%1, fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::2%1, fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::3%1
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6): Disconnected


Name: Local Area Connection* 10
Description: Microsoft Wi-Fi Direct Virtual Adapter #2
Physical address (MAC): e2:e4:34:83:77:c9
Status: Not operational
Maximum transmission unit: 1500
IPv4 address: 169.254.127.32/16
IPv6 address: fe80::2d8b:b56c:a63a:7f20%13/64
DNS servers: fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::1%1, fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::2%1, fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::3%1
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6): Disconnected


Name: Bluetooth Network Connection
Description: Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network)
Physical address (MAC): c0:e4:34:83:77:c8
Status: Not operational
Maximum transmission unit: 1500
IPv4 address: 169.254.209.102/16
IPv6 address: fe80::ed5e:c685:c194:d166%9/64
DNS servers: fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::1%1, fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::2%1, fec0ShockedShocked:ffff::3%1
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6): Disconnected




I turned it on, the wifi was way slower than my LAPTOP is in the same spot, and I put the ethernet in and my speeds are less than 1mbs. I'm using a netgear powerline through the wall outlet, I did this with my laptop and got good speed. On my phone wifi I'm getting 30mbs. I updated all windows and updated the network drivers. Any SUGGESTIONS would be nice thanks.Which motherboard is it?

This wound me up for an entire week, and I can't be the only one...
I assume once you've got to this stage, all your firewall and permissions and whatnot are perfect so I won't go through that.
I was adamant I had my username and password correct.
This is incredibly simple, ready?

• Go to C:\Users
• If you've ever changed your computer name or account name, the folder's name doesn't change... Use this (in my case, "User") in the username field.
• Done

My internet provider is Xfinity. We have a Netgear extender in my brother's room which is 1 room away from the router so he uses an Ethernet from the adapter. My room is 2 rooms away from the router so I use a Netgear wifi adapter to CONNECT to the extender. My brother's speed test reaches around 500 Mbps while I only reach 100 Mbps and NEVER actually reach 10 Mbps while downloading. Is there anything I can do to get a better connection? would another extender be possible? or can I somehow increase my speeds without using POWERLINE(i already tried and didn't work)?Nope, not really - except for ethernet.  The more devices you add the greater your latency and drop off will be.
WiFi is generally going to be SLOWER than Ethernet. Can't you run a second ethernet line to your room?A decent router which supports beamforming might help. Try changing the position of the router if possible.

I got a new modem last week and I cannot connect it with my Echo Dot. I've tried everything and it just won't connect. I have a wireless printer, had no problem with connecting that. I see that this is on my computer, however, when I click on it (the Echo Dot), nothing happens. So I was GOING to install Alexa APP on my computer again but it will only let me connect to my phone. I don't want it on my phone.  I found a lot of places to DOWNLOAD the app but am not sure they are legit. I don't know what to do. Can anyone tell me what's going on and do I trust other sites to get the download from?
Amazon supports only phones, iPhone or Android for the app.  Any other apps you find are 3rd party and not "OFFICIAL".  The only app I would consider using for a WINDOWS PC is the app found in the Microsoft store.Hi there,

Not sure if you got sorted out or not.  If you're still having issues then you can maybe have a wee read of this, it might help.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=GF7HA8GERSJGPCGE#:~:text=Check%20that%20your%20router%20is%20working.&text=If%20other%20devices%20can't,adapter%20for%20your%20Echo%20device

B Thanks, I have gotten it sorted out. Had to put an app on phone to make it work on computer.  And computers were supposed to keep you from having extra work to do.

I have an IGNITE modem and a Cisco Linksys E1200 ROUTER. After some difficulty I have set up the router successfully so now all 3 of my computers can access internet and I assume so can my phone, I haven't checked yet. But there seems to be a security issue. When I tested it out with my laptop, the laptop automatically connects to the internet. At no time was I asked to enter the password to get onto the network. I just turned on the laptop, and after it loaded the OS, it was automatically on the network. Doesn't this mean that anyone sitting in a car outside my house can get onto my network? I'm concerned about security. I don't want the hassle of having to log in every time I want to use the internet, but that doesn't mean I want to allow anyone outside to get onto my network.

2 computers are desktop and log themselves in to the network automatically. I thought that was because they're connected to the router with ethernet cables so there's no need for it to ask for the password. But for the wifi, how do I make it so I don't have to log in, but anyone without permission, or anyone passing by outside does? In the setup site for the E1200, there's a section for Wireless Security. The only OPTIONS under that tab are to change the security mode from what it's currently set to - WPA2/WPA Mixed Mode - to something else, and to change the passphrase. If I change that passphrase, will that be a separate wifi passphrase, or will it change the existing ethernet passphrase? Are they the same passphrase? And that won't EVEN solve the problem if it just logs anyone in automatically.If you already used the same SSID (wireless name) and the same wireless password in the past on a different access point or router your devices will simply connect because they will use the saved credentials.  If you want to test it simply tell your device to forget the network and it will require you to re-enter the password.  I normally try to use the same credentials when replacing hardware to avoid having to reprogram all the wireless devices. 

Thanks,

Mike

Dear All

I have seen many thread like the one I am posting now but I couldn't find a cure ,,,,may be I overlooked or it is hiding SOMEWHERE on net I didn't find it
I am trying to set Netgear Nighthawk D8500 with Firmware Version V1.0.3.50_1.0.1 as an Access Point and I was LOOKING to change the LAN IPs then this message POPPED up


Code: [Select]400 Bad Request This server does not support the operation requested by your client
How can I overcome this issue ?

THX

I have a lot of old but top of the line software and equipment which doesn't run well enough to use (or doesn't run at all) in newer operating systems. I got an old custom built HP Compaq 8100 with XP sp 3 which surprised me as it's quite a good machine. I reinstalled the XP sp3 operating system which runs really well and I'm having fun using software/equipment I haven't been able to use in a long time but I ran into a problem ... be it WiFi or Ethernet cable, I cannot connect to the internet. I did a connections diagnostic under "tools". It said it couldn't detect the "network adapters" ... they are listed under "hidden devices" in the device manager (should they be listed there?) and there are no exclamation points or question marks. When I ran the connections diagnostic a second time, I got a dialog box saying "Windows cannot detect any wired or wireless network cards installed on your machine" and something about downloading software and drivers. I googled it and it seems to be a frequent problem when one re-installs XP. Most spoke of updating XP sp 3 drivers but when I look at the downloads, I was totally lost ... I'm pretty good with graphics but this techy stuff is a different story (just reinstalling XP was, for me, a serious accomplishment LOL!). Would someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction with this - I'm stumped. While I have other newer computers to go online with, there are times when I need to get this thing on line and just can't. Thank you so very much.
This will 100% be caused by the missing network drivers, I've not used xp for many many years but do recall using WEBSITES that will scan your machine and report which drivers are missing. That's not going to work in your case but after a quick google I found this: https://www.driveridentifier.com I have not used it myself so cannot say if they are any good, but I am sure it will offer you some guidance and the right direction to start looking. Visit the page called "How it works" to see the video guideHere is a link to the drivers for your computer running Windows XP 32 Bit change to  64 bit if this is the version you are running.

https://support.hp.com/nz-en/drivers/selfservice/hp-compaq-8100-elite-small-form-factor-pc/4098436

There is 2 Ethernet drivers and 1 wireless driver . Only 1 of the Ethernet drivers is correct. If the computer still has the asset tag number you can search for the correct drivers using that.
You need to install the chip set driver first. My thanks to both of you! I'll download the drivers and let you know how I made out. Thanks again.Lisa_maree  Well, it's been an eventful night! While I was INSTALLING software on that old HP, I briefly smelled something electrical when something at the back of the optical drive literally burst into flames! (I've never seen that happen before). So much for that computer but since they're old machines, I had a second machine just in case - an old Lenovo 3000 J Series which I know was used until recently to keep financial records. Like the HP, the Lenovo's hard drive was a rather serious mess so I reinstalled windows xp pro and it's running just fine but now has the same internet connection problem as the HP (which is only logical as I used the same installation disc). I did, however, observe something which I thought I should mention:
   In the device manager under "hidden devices" was a list of the "network adapters" - they had no exclamation points or question marks. But directly under the list of network adapters (again, in "hidden devices") was a list of five devices in bold yellow with exclamation points - I'll list those below but I couldn't help but notice #2 on that list, i.e. "Ethernet Controller" - I know I'll never connect to the internet without this. I right clicked on it and tried to reinstall it but the installation wizard (or whatever it's called) searched and said there was no ethernet contoller in the machine. I don't know about the other four items listed under "other devices" but I do know that the ethernet controller should be listed under "all PROGRAMS" in the start menu but it just isn't there. If I read certain articles correctly, there should be a "RealTek ethernet controller" there but it's missing. I did the same with the other four "other devices" and they're all missing so I thought I'd mention this before searching Lenovo for the previously mentioned drivers. Below is a list of those five "other devices" that are missing. If you would be so kind, would you give me your thoughts on this? I only discovered this after reading some articles but I really don't want to do anything on my own because I'm seriously out of my element here. My apologies for the length of this post - couldn't figure out how else to phrase all this. Here is a list of the five "other devices" which the installer says is missing:
1. Audio Device on High Definition Audio Bus
2. Ethernet Controller
3. PCI Simple Communications Controller
4. SM Bus Controller
5. Video Controller (VGA Compatible)
All my old software and equipment are running just fine and I'm having fun with it. If I  must, I can use this even without internet access as I have other computers and can use discs or flash drives to download from one and upload to this one but I'd like to be able to connect to the internet if at all possible.  I do thank you for your time and patience, Lisa_maree !!Hi

You need the SM Bus Controller driver installed before the others will install. A check on Lenovo doesn't turn up any drivers for the 3000 j series drivers for xp.

So you will need to get them from VIA or use another motherboard drivers the chipset is VIA K8M800Hi Lisa_maree! Thank you for telling me that I would need to load that first. I did find XP drivers in Lenovo's site but it took some doing ... they have a rather well hidden category for obsolete operating systems but when searching for them, I entered 3000 J Series but I had to choose the "subseries" of that machine and that threw me. I googled it but couldn't find it anywhere in the places indicated but I was in a bit of a hurry so I'll have to search more carefully. I'll do my best to get this internet working but if I can't, at least my old software and equipment are running like new which is the important thing; I can go online with my other machines so while it may be a nuisance to download from one and upload to the other, it's only a minor annoyance. I'll do it that way until I come up with a solution and if I don't, then so be it. I really only need this machine for graphics: I use photoshop and Corel Draw/Paint  for either photo editing or to do initial drafts/outlines for artwork which I'll then paint or draw. That's all I'll be using this machine for but it's the XP that's the critical factor here if I'm to run my software and equipment and it's all working perfectly. The rest is icing on the cake. (I must admit, there was something intriguing about that old custom built [now seriously charred] HP - it originally had three optical drives and four hard drives and 10 usb ports - I have no idea why someone would do that but I guess they had their reasons.) Thanks again for your help.

I installed a wireless CARD on my friends mothers computer.
It was a D Link X Treme Wireless ADAPTER. After I installed the NETWORK card
the computer would boot to the Windows XP boot screen then reboot.
Anyone have any IDEA what this could be? แทงไฮโล

My router allows for multiple SSIDs - 2.4 and 5 versions + guest versions of each.

I use the 5 for my phone and PC, but my DVD player and stereo receiver only connect to the 2.4.

Occasionally, my 2.4 won't be able to access the internet, but the 5 will. So I can't Netflix or listen to XPN - although my PC is cooking along.

Does this make any sense? (I've tried changing channels in the router, to no avail.)

ThanksI had a router before have issues like this and replacing the router fixed the issue. My router was also however flashed with DD-WRT and curious if you ran into the same bug that i had with DD-WRT that would cause the 2.4Ghz band to act up but the 5Ghz band was fine.

For a short while I had a wall timer that would cycle the power once a day when sleeping that it seemed like after a reboot the router would work good for a while but it would often act up on the 2.4G band. I finally was like lets TRY a new router because this one is 5 years old anyways and it might be a hardware failure where overtime it builds like a memory leak or something.So this is interesting.

Different network, different router, different city and state. Similar problem.

My Cable network/MODEM - 2.4 and 5 Ghz are fine.

My new fiber/Cat-5 network - with a new router - 5G connects fine, 2.4 connects with no internet. I can open the router on the 2.4 and print, but I can't connect to the world.

Not sure what you mean by DD-WRT.


(A hard reboot of that other router seemed to do the trick. Like I said, that was a different network in a different city.... Ugh.)Actually I'll go one weirder. It's only my PC that can't connect to the Net on the 2.4 network. My phone and teevee connect just fine, thank you very much.

So to summarize.

My PC won't connect to the internet over a 2.4Ghz gigabit fiber network.
My phone and TV will connect to the net on the 2.4Ghz gigabit fiber network.
All devices will connect to the net on the 5Ghz gigabit fiber network (same router).
All devices will connect to the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz cable modem network (different router, obviously).

My PC does connect to the router INTERFACE (192.168.0.1) and printer over the 2.4Ghz gig fiber network.

I have rebooted everything.https://dd-wrt.com/

And what wireless adapter does the PC have that its just the PC that has an issue with the 2.4 band?2.4ghz wireless has 11 channels in USA,Canada has 12 and the rest of the world 14 channels. This doesn't present a problem until you have say a wireless adapter which will only do the first 11 channels and your routers are able to go to channels up to 14. So there is 3 channels you can't connect on.

First check the SPECS of the wireless adapter in the computer, then check from a 5 Ghz connection if the 2.4 ghz is on auto and what channels it is using if you can set a channel range then make it for the channels the wireless adapter supports. Sometimes it just a matter of selecting your region on both the router and wireless adapter.Sorry, Dave, I should have been more CLEAR about my confusion. I Googled "DD-WRT" and got as far as "Unix-based open source firmware" and my eyes rolled back into my skull.... I haven't installed any hacks or tried to unlock/break my router - it's the firmware that came with it.

The fiber network (where the 5 works and the 2.4 doesn't, on my PC only) is a TPLink AC1750 router. (Which I may just replace).
The Cable network (where both 5 and 2.4 work) is a Netgear AC1900.

If I understand your question about "what wireless adapter" I have... It's a Marvell AVASTAR Wireless-AC Network Controller. (And, yes, the most up-to-date drivers seem to be installed).

As far as I can tell, Lisa_maree, the 2.4 is always broadcasting on Channel 11.

Bump.

To recap:

Two wireless routers in the apartment, one is Cable, one is Fiber. Both are broadcasting 2.4 and 5.

My PC does not connect to the internet on the 2.4 network on the Fiber router.

• My iPad, my Android phone, and my wife's PC fully connect to both networks on the fiber router.
• My PC fully connects to the internet on the 5 network on the fiber router.
• All devices fully connect to both bandwidths on Cable router, and through to the internet.
• When I am connected to the 2.4 network on the fiber network, I can ping my router through the browser.
• My printer is on the 2.4 fiber network. When my PC is connected to the 2.4 fiber network, I can still print.
  (Even though I can't connect to the internet)
  Nor can I see the printer's "page" through a browser
• All of my channels are set to automatic; the fiber 2.4 is currently on channel 1.

HP stream laptop
Windows 10
processor: Intel(R) Celeron(R)
system type: 64-but oper syst & x64 based processor

I don't know if that is relevant info about my laptop but if any other info is needed I'll be happy to add to it.

My laptop stopped will connect to all wifi, but it is a 50/50 chance of it connecting to the internet. I don't know if this is my laptop itself, because it didn't used to have this problem, but whenever my laptop has this issue, my phone does too. Although, other people's devices can connect.

I've done everything I thought I could do to fix this according to this steps on this website: https://www.techilife.com/no-internet-connected-wifi/

Other answers cited the same solutions. Everything appeared normal. Troubleshooting found no problems, only suggesting to reset my connections as an admin, which I did again. Flushing my dns did nothing. The IP assignment is automatic. Everything that should be automatic is automatic as far as I could tell when looking at the properties the website told me to check.

I didn't move to a rural area with dodgy internet in general.
Is this a mystery?

When you look at IPCONIG/ALL does it show a 169.x.x.x address or are you getting a 192.x.x.x address from the wireless routers DHCP?

At command shell you can ENTER IPCONFIG/ALL and it will show info for wired and wireless adapters. Next time the internet isnt working do this and see if you still have the 192.x.x.x assignment or if its onto a 169.x.x.x IP address.

More info here as to why the 169.x.x.x if this is whats happening to you. It CHECKS for DHCP every 5 minutes, but during that 5 minutes you wont have internet, and if it tries again and fails its then 10 minutes without it and so on.

https://answersby.com/dys/dyfpost/issue--169xxx--apipa-ip-address-problems

*Note: Once it has gotten an IP Address from the router though it should hold onto this 192.x.x.x IP address even if wireless connecting is weak, and then it would reconnect when signal strength permits.

You may find that you will need to get a 2nd router or relocate the wireless router to be closer to where you commonly use your computer. If the wireless is the next door neighbor, if the neighbor is cool with you sharing their connection maybe they can add a router or relocate the router at their home so that it casts a stronger signal to your home etc.You can try to create a shortcut with this vbscript for FIXING internet connection ==> Network_Diagnostics.vbs
Code: [Select]Option Explicit
' Vbscript Created by Hackoo on 09/06/2020 16:00
' Updated on 10/06/2020 for testing the Hotkey after creating the shortcut on the desktop
Dim Title : Title = "Shortcut Creator for Network Diagnostics by Hackoo 2020"
' We call the subroutine Create_Shortcut in order to create it on the desktop
Call Create_Shortcut(_
"NetworkDiagnostics",_
"%SystemRoot%\system32\msdt.exe",_
"-skip TRUE -path %Windir%\diagnostics\system\networking -ep NetworkDiagnosticsPNI",_
"%SystemRoot%\system32\msdt.exe,0",_
"Network Diagnostics to fix problems",_
"CTRL+ALT+D"_
)
 ' Showing a Message Box with three languages : English,French and Arabic
MsgBox "The shortcut was created successfully on your desktop !" & vbCrlf &_
"Le raccourci a été créé avec succès sur votre bureau !" & vbcrlf &_
"تم إنشاء الاختصار بنجاح على سطح المكتب الخاص بك !",vbInformation,Title
'-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
' Just for testing the Hotkey after creating the shortcut on the desktop :
' To send keyboard characters that are comprised of a regular KEYSTROKE in combination with a SHIFT, CTRL, or ALT,
' create a compound string argument that represents the keystroke combination.
' You do this by preceding the regular keystroke with ONE or more of the following special characters :
' Key   ===> Special Character
' SHIFT ===> +
' CTRL ===> ^
' ALT  ===> %
' For further reading about sendkeys : https://www.vbsedit.com/html/4b032417-ebda-4d30-88a4-2b56c24affdd.asp
CreateObject("WScript.Shell").Sendkeys "^%{d}"
'------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sub Create_Shortcut(ShortcutName,TargetPath,Arguments,IconLocation,Description,HotKey)
Dim objShell,DesktopPath,objShortCut
Set objShell = CreateObject("WScript.Shell")
DesktopPath = objShell.SpecialFolders("Desktop")
Set objShortCut = objShell.CreateShortcut(DesktopPath & "\" & ShortcutName & ".lnk")
objShortCut.TargetPath = chr(34) & TargetPath & chr(34)
objShortCut.Arguments = Arguments
ObjShortCut.IconLocation = IconLocation
ObjShortCut.Description = Description
ObjShortCut.HotKey= HotKey
objShortCut.Save
End Sub
'-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I posted it before here ==> Laptop disconnects frequently from WiFi

My laptop is giving me issues with wifi connection.

It's a Samsung laptop running Windows 10. I just switched internet PROVIDERS from Xfinity to CenturyLink. I had no issues with wifi connection until we switched internet providers but all other devices in the home CONNECT fine, CenturyLink customer support said that everything on their end was SHOWING fine, and I logged into the MODEM admin and it isn't showing any obvious connection issues. We do have 5 people in the house, each using multiple devices, and we have 940 mbps.

What is happening is the laptop connects and sometimes says "No internet, secured" and sometimes says "Connected,secured", then it continously disconnects and reconnects over and over, never having actual internet connection. I have a fairly baseline understanding of computers and did the REGULAR first steps: turning wifi on/off, computer on/off, resetting the modem, updated drives. And then I googled the issue and tried updating the power management settings, unistalled/reinstalled the network adapter, made sure the Wifi AutoConfig service startup type was automatic, tried using Google's DNS server, reset the TCP/IP configuration, and did a network reset and nothing has worked. However, the laptop will stay connected to my phone hotspot and other home wifi's just fine. So I'm unclear if it's an internet provider issue or a computer issue.

Please help! I'm running out of steam here and I just want my laptop to connect to the dang interwebs.Couple of questions to think about..

Will the computer get online if you connect via a cable and not wi-fi this will help determine if the ISP is blocking something.

Could your router be blocking your laptop by MAC address, make sure there are no filters in the router

Do you have a dual banddual router, i.e it's transmitting two networks, 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz have you tried both?

Have you tried changing the channel that the router transmits on?

Have you tried changing the SSID name that the router is using? There might be some historic configuration in the laptop where is has been told not use that network.

My computer is in my shop and is hardwired to internet. AVG speed is 20-25mbps. Wanted wifi in the shop so I installed a wifi extender on the line, then plugged the extender into my computer. My speed drops to LESS than half. When I unplug the extender and plug the hard wire BACK into my computer the speed goes back to 20-25mbps. Is this normal or is there something wrong with the wifi extender? Have checked it multiple times over several days at different times. Always the same result.I had the same issue, and for some reason I think these extenders just sort of CONSUME part of your connection in some cases.

The only luck I've had with minimizing this was using a ubiquitin access point, which didn't seem to take much speed when I tested it.

I honestly have no idea why extenders tend to slow the speed, maybe they are just thinning the signal somehow - you'll have to get one of the more techsavvy guys on here to answer that one.

I ended up upgrading my speed eventually which of course made the problem less of a hassle, but my access points still tend to slow the speed a bit below what it should be.Whats the model number of your extender? Why is your wired computer connected to the extender? Can it not be wired direct to the incoming feed then just use the extender for the shop wi-fi. Depending on your ISP provider some offer free/discounted extenders that are preconfigured.   Hi

If the extender is connecting to you modem via wireless then yes it will be much slower than a computer connected direct to the modem. In this configuration the extender has to receive a packet of data and then resend it, so is about 1/2 the speed.
If you are giving public access to your network or connecting customers computers you should use the modems guest network. This isolates their computers from your network, they can only access the internet not the local network. This gives a level of PROTECTION from virus's and someone accessing your shop computers.

Hello

What MIGHT be the reason, please, why I can't connect to Bluetooth (PAIRING it with to my Android phone) on my Win 10 PC. I can see the Bluetooth icon on the phone (a ZTE Blade A3). When I go to Settings | Devices | Add Bluetooth or other device, Win 10 simply tells me 'Couldn't connect'. When the phone searches for devices, it can't find any.

I would LIKE to share files on my phone with my PC and vice-versa.

Thank you.Hi
Sorry your phone only has BT4.0 with support for these protocols A2DP, LE

LE is LOW energy and A2DP is  Advanced Audio Distribution Profile.
There is no data transfer protocols available.

You may be ABLE to use USB and set the phone as a MPD device then the phone looks to the computer as a disk drive.

Or connect to the phone using wireless either with a program like AirDroid or AirMirror

This is just a tip from me and I HOPE it helps some OTHERS.  I FOUND having Express VPN start on start up, was sometimes requiring me to re start the computer as the wi fi or Ethernet would not CONNECT, until the second try. Since unticking launch at start, the wi fi now CONNECTS everytime computer starts.

You MUST have already HEARD.  BANDWIDTH is running out.

Check this out:
https://ktla.com/news/nationworld/eu-asks-netflix-and-other-streaming-sites-to-halt-hd-video-so-the-internet-doesnt-break/

The EU steps in:
https://ktla.com/news/nationworld/eu-asks-netflix-and-other-streaming-sites-to-halt-hd-video-so-the-internet-doesnt-break/

Comment?

I have a server with CORRECT IP/Subnet/Gateway SETTINGS and from the server I am able to ping the gateway, client workstations, and web addresses. The firewall service is stopped and disabled.

However, from other workstations on the same domain, but different VLANs are unable to ping that server. It's not the only server on that VLAN and others respond just FINE.

Any IDEAS?

Thank you.

I’m having to work from home currently and require internet access on my computer. I have had to bring a computer from the office home with me as I don’t usually USE windows at home. The computer I’ve brought home does not work with WIFI, so needs an Ethernet. This has meant that the only place I can have the computer is in my living room, which isn’t convenient due to others being in the house.

Is there anything I could use, such as an ADAPTER of some kind, that I could plug in and give the computer access to WiFi so it could be used in another room?https://www.amazon.com/wi-fi-dongles/b?ie=UTF8&node=13983791 Let me try to give a broad answer.
As a starting  place, I will assume use of Xfinity equipment.
My house has both TV and Internet service. We also have cell phones.
My Internet comes from Comcast and uses the name Xfinity.
The Virginity ROUTER has WI-if. It has to be turned on and the password set. Customer service can do it for me or I can do it my sled.
At one time the device was:
http://10.0.0.1
(But recently it was changed. Yours may differ.)
Then I wee a page in my browser that lets me get into the Wireless setup for the router, Once set, it gives both an inherent connection or a wireless to any computer or device in my house. Often we have two Desktops and four smartphones running at the same time. On of the Ethernet connections go out side to another router in my barn. There I have a spare D-LINK router with wireless. It is set as an AP thing,  that way anybody in the barn can use a smartphone or laptop to get my internet connection.

Your Internet provider can help you with this. 
 
I think the op just needs a wifi dongle in order to add wifi capability to his work computer.  See the link POSTED by Allan above.strollin,
You are right. I got it backwards. 
Yes, he just needs a dongle.
A Wi-Fi dongle will give a high speed connection.
Here is one:

Nice Wi-Fi Dongle from Amazon.

I got  one like that and it works good.   

Hi, When i start my computer it cant FIND any neworks, when i RESTART my computer all is good, this is the case if the computer has been off for a long time or 30 seconds,
this happens every time i start my computer, own build, ASUS motherboard, windows 10.
below is what i get

on starting my computer

Name:   Ethernet
Description:   Intel(R) 82579V Gigabit Network Connection
Physical address (MAC):   14:da:e9:15:30:d3
Status:   Not operational
Maximum transmission unit:   1500
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6):   Disconnected
                                      
                                      
This is what I get after re-starting

Name:   Ethernet
Description:   Intel(R) 82579V Gigabit Network Connection
Physical address (MAC):   14:da:e9:15:30:d3
Status:   Operational
Maximum transmission unit:   1500
Link SPEED (Receive/Transmit):   1000/1000 (MBPS)
DHCP enabled:   Yes
DHCP servers:   192.168.0.1
DHCP lease obtained:   ‎31 ‎January ‎2020 17:00:17
DHCP lease EXPIRES:   ‎10 ‎February ‎2020 17:00:17
IPv4 address:   192.168.0.10/24
IPv6 address:   fe80::8a5:68d8:a9cc:2155%9/64
Default gateway:   192.168.0.1
DNS servers:   194.168.4.100, 194.168.8.100
DNS domain name:   
DNS connection suffix:   
DNS search suffix list:   
Network name:   Network
Network category:   Private
Connectivity (IPv4/IPv6):   Connected to Internet / Connected to unknown network
                                      
Hoping you can assist me

Alvin                               

Hello everyone,,
How do I manage to get this DONE?

I have a few Files that are too large for me to transfer via USB (and my external HDD is full)

In win XP file sharing has been easy! Where you just enable it, and then under  “My network PLACES” you just click on “View workgroup computers” and then you would see all computers that you have access to..

But I skipped Vista, and just 2 days now I am on Win7 and I just cant figure out how to get this done (Windows 7 part)

I have made a proper crossover cable and have tested it with a tester.
All help is appreciated thanks in advance

P.s. I want to transfer in both DIRECTIONS From Win XP to  Win7  and Win 7 to XP
Shared Folders
Thia has been documented.
Quote

Sharing Files Between Windows 7 and Windows XP Make sure both of the machines are on the same Workgroup which by default is named WORKGROUP. From your Windows 7 machine, go to: Control Panel > Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center

Hi i thing my router is going bad I have a totolink n300th 2.4g 300mbs i am THINKING of upgrading it i have to routers I am looking at a Belkin AC1200 Dual Band AC Wireless Router (F9K1123) witch has 5g which I don't have a device that supports the 5g but it is backwards compatibility 2.4 300mbs  or  a totolink n600r  witch is 2.4g and 600mbs witch one should I GET the Belkin  or should I get the totolink and UPGRADE later what do you think I should do

Lately my computer has been acting weird. Every 10 - 15 seconds my internet on my pc just gets CUT off. It's not like i have to reconnect after but it just stops for a few seconds and starts again, KIND of like a lag spike but longer. I tested my internet on my laptop and other devices and it doesn't happen there so i THINK it's the computer itself... i use a wifi adapter for internet, i tried replacing my old one and it doesn't fix the problem... any idea how to fix this?

I'm on Windows 10 Pro version 1903I am currently having the exact same problem with my PC for the second time. I fixed it the first time by opening up the services app and restarting "WLAN AutoConfig" and then reconnecting to the WiFi. This isn't a great fix THOUGH since it now isn't working for me and you also have to do it WHENEVER you boot up your PC. Quote from: JEF_one_F on August 05, 2020, 06:05:48 AM

I am currently having the exact same problem with my PC for the second time. I fixed it the first time by opening up the services app and restarting "WLAN AutoConfig" and then reconnecting to the WiFi. This isn't a great fix though since it now isn't working for me and you also have to do it whenever you boot up your PC.

Model: 2016 Razer Blade Stealth RZ09-0196 12.5" QHD i7-7500U 
No Router 
Modem: CGM4140COM by Technicolor 

OS Name Microsoft Windows 10 Home 
Version 10.0.18363 Build 18363 
System Manufacturer Razer 
System Model Blade Stealth 
System Type x64-based PC 
System SKU RZ09-01962E11 
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-7500U CPU 2.70GHz, 2901 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s) 
BIOS Version/Date Razer 6.05, 1/26/2017 
Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 16.0 GB 
Total Physical Memory 15.9 GB 
Available Physical Memory 13.5 GB 

ISP: Rogers Cable 
22 devices connected but less then 10 active at a time 

My laptop connects to the internet and is able to browse but programs & apps acts LIKE they are not connected to the internet, examples like OneDrive is stuck on signing in, Sticky Notes can not detect internet, Can not use Windows Update, Weather says there is no internet, can not use search bar etc...an example image

https://imgur.com/a/u6Dy6kJ

It wasn't always like this, when I troubleshoot I get "Windows can't automatically detect this network's settings" and sometimes instead of signals I see "Connected but No Internet, secured"

I appreciate it if I can get help figuring this out so I can use my laptop normally!Does your mobile connect to the internet and WORK ok using the same WiFi signal?...this will determine if it is a wifi signal problem or PC.

Restart your router . Reinitializing the connection to your ISP might help you get Internet access when connected to WiFi.yes it doesI would like to update


I connected to someone else's internet and restarted my laptop, several times and it was consistently normal with the programs detecting internet


Does this mean there is a conflict with my network and my laptop even though others devices are fine?Did you manage to SORT your problem? Quote from: Pratchett on June 04, 2020, 09:30:28 AM

Did you manage to sort your problem?

Almost every day between 4pm and 5pm my Spectrum internet goes out for about 5-7 minutes, GIVE or take a minute or two. It has been doing this since installing the service last fall. I have called Spectrum about this and they say that they do not show any interruption at all during the time that it's off. Every piece of equipment from Spectrum has been replaced at least once, some of it twice including my underground cable and all coax at my residence as well as Modem and Router. Even the computers that are connected with CAT-5 or 6 go offline when this happens, not just the Wi-Fi. During the lost connection, the LIGHTS on my Modem and Router do not show that they are disconnected. My Wife is working from home now so some help or ANSWERS would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Modem-(Spectrum....MAY be made by Motorola)
Router-Hitron TECHNOLOGIES Inc., E31N2V1 Docsis 3.1 eMTA
Both provided by Spectrum

HI, I have been doing this SINCE 1996 so its not to new to me. I have a d-link615 router, it port forwards to one of my game servers no problem, but not the other server2. With that server I can ping the ip address buy not the no-ip hostname, funny thing is from the running server I can connect to server2 (?) but can't connect with my main PC, and won't ALLOW internet connections to it. Suggestions Please.(I hope that is ebough info.
EDIT: Server1 runs XP, Server2 runs win98se and that server actually BOOTS into DOS for the server to RUN.

Device: Self-built Desktop No Router Modem: CGM4140COM by Technicolor PSU: Corsair AX1200 1200W Not SURE how to find my NETWORK card

Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 18363) (18362.19h1_release.190318-1202) System Manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. System Model: X58A-UD7 BIOS: Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG (type: BIOS) Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU X 980 3.33GHz (12 CPUs), ~3.3GHz Memory: 12288MB RAM Available OS Memory: 12286MB RAM Card name: AMD Radeon R9 200 Series Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.

If any other information is needed, please let me know!

Hi there!

I am seeking help for a problem that has started recently for me, I have a steamable link example of it below

https://streamable.com/q2b17e

The problem is that the internet keeps cutting off (I can not find consistently in its timing), it could be in 2-5 minutes or 40 minutes, either way I can not use the internet on my desktop (It does not happen on my other devices) for a long period of time without having to disconnect from the internet & reconnecting or restarting my PC (Sometimes reconnecting does not do the trick), this would grant me normal fast internet access again temporarily and I am not sure what restarting the PC does to the network that allows this, I would LIKE help in figuring this out

If it doesn't cut out, it feels like it is struggling to connect as you can see in the streamable link

I feel like this HAPPENED because I messed with my firewall (Vipre Advanced Security)

Recently I have been cleaning up and going over all my computer's settings, when I opened my antivirus (Vipre Advanced Security), I defaulted the firewall so it can learn from the start again and I been seeing problems ever since, now even if I turn off the firewall, the problem persists

Thank you for reading and appreciate any help I can GET!
When your connection hangs, open up Command Prompt and see if you can ping google.com to see what happens. Is the ping going through? How's the latency?

If you tracert google.com, is there any particular point where your connection drops off / where latency spikes?

If rebooting your PC fixes your network, this indicates that there's not an issue with your modem, that it's purely a software issue with your PC. If Chrome is hanging, does Firefox or Internet Explorer work?I can barely get internet on my desktop now and forced to used my laptop

Yes, when Firefox hangs, so does Microsoft Edge

Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting allows the network to work for a bit too

I'll try the tracert and ping when it happens again

You mentioned that you think it's because of Vipre - maybe you could try completely uninstalling it the next time your computer hangs, just to see what happens?

You could also create a new user account on the computer. When the internet begins to hang, you could log into the other account to see if it's hanging there as well.

It's not convenient, but it would help rule our what the issue is. Based on everything you've said so far, it's sounding like it's something software-specific on your computer, but it'll be tricky to diagnose what.https://imgur.com/a/V4FV6mr

I tried ping and tracert, it acted like there was no internet connected, which I assume it did Quote from: TechGeek on May 25, 2020, 09:13:54 AM

You mentioned that you think it's because of Vipre - maybe you could try completely uninstalling it the next time your computer hangs, just to see what happens?

You could also create a new user account on the computer. When the internet begins to hang, you could log into the other account to see if it's hanging there as well.

It's not convenient, but it would help rule our what the issue is. Based on everything you've said so far, it's sounding like it's something software-specific on your computer, but it'll be tricky to diagnose what.

I have a Power Spec B662 desktop computer.  The motherboard is an AS Rock B250M-HDV. The operating system is Windows 10 home 64 bit Version   10.0.18363 Build 18363.  The wireless network card is a Realtek 8812 AE Wireless Lan 802.11ac PCI-E NIC.  It has given me problems from day one and I WOULD like to replace it with a more reliable card.  I have tried reinstalling the card and that does not fix the problem.  What I am LOOKING for is what type of network card do I need.
Here is a short  answer.
Get a USB dongle.
Forget repairing or REPLACING the  internal device. There is no good resown to do so.
Thank you for the information, I did not know that was an option.

ok what WOULD cuz my SIGNAL to random drop and loss connection? its a LINKSYS g-router..


its hooked up to my dell desktop(and that losses the signal too

and my dell laptop connects to it.

i just updated the firmware friday


TIA
unlovedwarriorDid it happen before or after you updated the firmware / called your ISP to SEE if they are having problems?

"and that losses the signal too and my dell laptop connects to it. "...thru ICS?

Alan <><  alan your termology confuses me.. ICS??


it happened both before and after, it got BETTER after the update though

How can i CHECK the speed  of my internet connection. That speed which is delivered by my internet  supplieremildilov..... you can go to the site ...below and RUN a test ........
http://www.bandwidthplace.com/speedtest/

Just enter your type of connection and which country your in .... and start test.

then COMPARE it to what your ISP.says you are PAYING for.


dl65  I  use modem for my internet connection.What kind is my internet connection......cable?!            

Stupid QUESTION may by.

I don't think there is a way to do this, but just out of curiousity is there a way to LOGIN to windows xp through another computer on your workgroup. I already KNOW the ways of domain and server and how they work.It depends what you MEAN by "logon".  Yes, you can do it, in the loose sense, by using VNC or Remote Desktop (where supported).  But in the strict sense, logging on usually implies password and resource MANAGEMENT, and for those you need a logon server - e.g. Windows Server 2003, Linux + Samba, Netware, etc.Thanks for the REPLY Rob. I kind of figured you need a server to do this.

My son received a free computer and we would like to get it hooked up to the internet for him.

It is a 2001 Gateway.

We have Cable Internet and we also have Vonage phone service.

So my questions are:

1 - What is do I need to do to get him online?  Is it as simple as buying a cord and hooking it into the vonage router?

2 - Once we get him hooked up will the internet CONNECTION slow down if we are both online at the same time?

Thank you so much for your help - what a great site this is  1. Almost that simple. You will have to CONFIGURE his machine to aquire its IP from the router.

2. Not so you'd notice.How many ports that Vonage router has?
Yes, it should be so simple. But you will tell us if you managed it or not, right?
For 2 - it depends on what are you doing on the internet, what he will be doing on internet. It depends greatly on your bandwidth. If you have a lot of bandwidth allocated, then you will not sense anything. If it is something like a dial-up (which I doubt), you will be on internet in shifts Thanks for your quick replies!

As far as ports, are you meaning the plug-ins for the cable? - If so, then I have 2 ports on one side and 4 on the other.  Then the main plug-in for the cable line.

We have cable internet and they offer 2 speeds of the cable internet and we have the slower one, ummm, I'm thinking it's like 500 and something maybe?  The higher one is 700 and something.  Wow - I'm not feeling very computer smart LOL

As far what we will be doing online - message boards, chatting, games, and I do graphics.i have a 2001 gateway play machine and it should automatically get an ip as soon as you plug the cable into the back of the computer..

turn the computer off plug the cat 5 cable into the router then into the computer turn on the computer and give it a bit to get an ip.

youll know if its getting an ip address. if you see two computers on your taskbar lower right hand side of the computer screen and there is a lil yellow dot going back and forth.

if you cant get the ip address then come back and well helpThank you very much

It will be a little bit before I come back - we're gonna do this for him for Christmas have you tried what i said yet or youll reply when you get back?I'll let ya know after we try - we don't EVEN have the cord yet LOL  I needed to know if I had to get anything more than that.

Which does bring up another question I guess - there were 2 different kinds to get, different numbers, which one is best?cat 5 will be GOOD for you.. the cat5e is just upgrade cat5 but wont give you anything more and same with cat6 they just give faster data transfer rates, but both computers have to support the transfer rate(im talking about the network cards in the computers)oh i forgot you might want get crossover cables if you want to do anykind of networking. but lets wait for some ones thoughtsOk thanks   Quote

the cat5e is just upgrade cat5 but wont give you anything more and same with cat6 they just give faster data transfer rates

Hi,
I recently had to reinstall WINDOWS and now everything SEEMS to be running SMOOTHLY except for one ISSUE. Previously if my wireless connection was not working properly I could right click the wireless icon and view all available wireless networks. If I wasnt logged onto mine I could simply move it up in order of preference. Now I can no longer see which networks are available. I have tried REFRESHING the network list but it does not list any as it had done before. So if for example i am logged onto another wireless it becomes difficult to choose my network from an empty list. How do I get that "available network list" back again??

PeterIt could be that since your first installation, those other networks have stopped broadcasting their SSID.  Is your own SSID hidden, do you know?Yes, Rob.............mine is not viewed either.

PeterThere you are then, you won't see those networks.  Everything is as it should be.   

Hi,

I have a speedstream 4100 dsl modem, which uses 192.168.0.1 and (as far as I know) that can't be changed. Therefore, I can't turn on ICS. I have both my computer and xbox hooked up to a linksys hub, and no matter what SETTINGS I change, I can't get them both to connect at the same time. What should I do? Quote

I have a speedstream 4100 dsl modem, which uses 192.168.0.1 and (as far as I know) that can't be changed. Therefore, I can't turn on ICS.

Okay, well I see no reason why you can't change the internal IP address assigned to your modem.

Have a look in the networking FAQ (link in my signature).  Also consider working through >these ICS instructions<.

I have a Speedstream modem with a DSL line and a Dell Inspiron.

Every time I boot my computer it takes a LONGER and longer time to connect to my internet provider. It started out as taking about 5 minutes, then it took 7, and now it takes about 20 minutes or more, and I have to restart my modem a few times to get it recognized at all.

Also, my speed is often slow and cuts in and out and I have to reboot and the computer and modem to increase the speed. After several weeks of this I've reached a point where even rebooting doesn't help.

This problem is getting worse every week, and I have no idea if it is the modem or the computer that is the problem.

 I ran a malware scan and quarantined one file and got rid of some tracking cookies, but that didn't help much.

Specs:

Dell Inspiron 620
6 GB Ram
64 bit operating system
Intel R Core TM i5-2320 [email protected] 3.00 GHz 3.00 GHz
Windows 7 Home Premium

Modem is Speedstream 5360 ADSL Ethernet Modem

What do you suggest? Is this a problem with memory, the harddrive, or the modem itself or perhaps the wiring? Why did rebooting help at first?

I am really desperate to fix the problem, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!Do you have any other computers or internet devices like smart phone or tablet that connects through this same Internet CONNECTION? Do they also have the same issue that this computer has? Do you have a friend who can bring their Tablet or Smart Phone or Laptop to your home to see if they run into the same issue when connecting to your internet connection, if unable to test this out yourself?Good idea to try what Dave suggested.
Your modem is really old like original Adsl modem old. And only has a connection for 1 computer no wireless. Have you  made any changes to the phone system and that you have adsl filters on all your telecom devices.

Then  check, when there is no connection if there is a power light and link light on the modem on. If either is missing then it is most likely the Modem is dieing. Anyway 20 + years for a modem is a good life RIP. A NEW modem will be more reliable connecting and could be faster.
Thanks for the advice, it turned out it was the modem, I replaced it and it got the speed back.

There is however, a message on the modem box that says "to maximize connection speed, leave this modem on for 10 days after the DSL installation is complete".

Why is this so?  If I turn off my modem before 10 days, what will happen?  Can I turn it off for a few hours and turn it back on, will the speed be harmed?

 
Thanks for the help. HI Again

With modern modems unless you are going to be away for a few weeks or more just leave it on. In most places in the world they only use a few cents a week in power and and can take 5 or more minutes from power up till the internet is ready to use. In some setups other devices like network printers may not work with the modem turned off. So best to leave it on. If you wait the 10 days the exchange equipment will have time to configure your connection for the most stable fastest connection. Also if you keep turning the modem on and off the exchange equipment could see this as a fault and reduce the connection speed.  CaptainHaddock, what model did you end up buying? I ran into the same issue a while ago and replacement seems to be the only viable fix at this point, it was about time for it anyway.For what is worth, here is what I do.
I have my cable modem on an clock timer that  turns it off for some part of the early morning . I am not sure is that is needed. But it works. Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 02, 2019, 08:26:32 AM

For what is worth, here is what I do.
I have my cable modem on an clock timer that  turns it off for some part of the early morning . I am not sure is that is needed. But it works.

I'm moving my router to try and get better coverage in my HOUSE and I need to buy a longer cable to connect it to the PC.  The one that comes with the router has a string of LETTERS and numbers to categorise it.  Do I need to find an identical cable or are some of the letters or numbers the KEY ones when searching for a supplier?

 The cable I have has the following on it:

 E344O96 FLI AWM 285 26AWG4PAIR 60°C 30V FT2 UTP CAT.5E TIA/EIA568B 2 ETERNITY JU 22 2019

 Any help on this would be great!The only part of that that really matters is "CAT 5e" which is the STANDARD of cable, any CAT 5e or greater (CAT 6, CAT6a.etc) cable will work fine.  The only thing to watch out for cables that are listed as "CCA" these are cheap cables with an aluminium conductor when it really should be solid copper, just avoid these and you'll be fine.
Five cats.

Hey , I have had an on going issue with my phone and internet. Chorus isn’t fixing it , it’s been going on for 4 months. Where the speed is SHOWING at 17mbsp Download speed on the Chorus website and my modem interface. when I do an online speed test I get 0.40mbsp, one of the lowest speeds in New Zealand. a technician brought my modem and PLUGGED directly into the cabinet and I received 0.40mbsp. I’ve tried spark, frizbox and net gear modems. I’ve tried gaming laptop, windows and MacBook laptops , and Ethernet cable and all 1-0.40mbsp. Download speeds. I’m only 800m from the cabinet , and on ADSL.

Any suggestions of what the problem could be , or how to fix it ,Hi fellow Kiwi,

I'm a little confused at what you mean by "a technician brought my modem and plugged directly into the cabinet" do you mean the tech disconnected your line at the road side cabinet and attached your modem to test the line from the cabinet to the exchange. Seems a little strange as the Tech should have been able to test the adsl signal and speed with their test set without the modem.  You can always test you setup by taking your computer and modem and attaching it to a FRIENDS connection which you know is working. If they are both chorus connections you don't need to change anything in your modem for it to work. Just swap out their modem for yours. If the internet is fast then it's a problem in your house.

I think it is most likely the house wiring maybe a monitored alarm or sky box without an adsl filter. Has the adsl  ever worked ? How old is the house and how many phone OUTLETS do you have?
What suburb are you in, some areas still have over head CABLES.

There maybe an option in your area to get VDSL which if installed properly means a tech will come out and put an adsl line filter where the phone line comes into the house and then run an Ethernet cable to the modem. Which means the house phone connections and wiring are isolated from the Adsl connection.

How to check for space AVAILABILITY in One-Drive ?  Is there some kind of pie-chart like the one USED for checking space availability on the computer?

Thank you in ADVANCE for helping me.

GuzeppiGoogle is your FRIEND:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=ow+to+check+for+space+availability+in+One-Drive

This is new to me, so I'm probably not using the correct terms, and maybe I'm making wrong assumptions, and if so then I apologise. Apologies also if it's in the wrong forum.

The situation is that my neighbour's house now has five security cameras fitted, and working properly. The cameras' leads (they are wired, not wireless) all go through the attic, and meet and go down into his bedroom, and are connected to the camera's hub box (or whatever it's called, the unit that houses the hard drive and everything). The hub box is wired into his bedroom TV, and everything is working fine, he can view the cameras on the bedroom TV, there's no problems with the security system at all.

The thing is, he wants to connect the camera hub box to the internet, so it can email him if say he's at work and one of the cameras detects moving in his yard (he has LOTS of valuable fish, some of them are *massive*). He doesn't want or need to view the security cameras on the downstairs TV, just for the security camera hub box (which is upstairs) to communicate with the internet, via the house router, which is downstairs. Ideally, he doesn't want to run a cable all the way from the bedroom to the router (from the camera hub box in his bedroom, down to the router in his living room), or to drill a cable though the bedroom floor (for the cable from the camera hub box to the router in his living room) if he can avoid using a long cable.

The router is SKY broadband, which wirelessly connects to the usual stuff (tablet, PHONE, an Amazon Fire stick type thing). Everything is working with that router, but he has a second router (identical to the FIRST) that isn't being used for anything, and he was hoping that he could somehow introduce the second, previously unused router into the equation, and get the two routers working together, meaning that his camera hub box would be connected by a short cable to a router (call it router two, the new router that would be in the bedroom next to the camera hub box) and that router two would communicate wirelessly with router one (the downstairs router, the one that's connected to the phone line and feeds everything else, i.e. his tablet, mobile phone, etc).

Is this possible, or does it require a different item (not a router) to be connected to the camera hub in place of router two? Please don't assume I know anything about this (I pretty much don't), it's all new to me.

Thanks for any answers.This is from dictation and may contain errors. 

Hello,
after reading over your post very carefully I have decided to RESPOND with a short explanation.
I think you will not be able to RESOLVE this issue with whatever experience you've already had with this sort of thing. It is more than just a matter of connecting two routers together.
The protocol used over the Internet differs considerably with the protocol used to transmit signals from a camera to a television set. Even when everything is done digitally, there is still a large variation in protocol. Or to put it is perspective you might say the variations and protocols for digital transmission very my more than two orders of magnitude. Which simply means that to accomplish what you want you'll need to have the full cooperation of the people that built and installed the equipment. Oftentimes I equipment specified for specific use will have a protocol that is not universally used everywhere. It is not just matchmaking connectors. The digital protocol used over the Internet is very specific and it differs widely from the protocol used by wireless devices. Of course, they make it all work together, but that doesn't mean that they are really the same thing. They are not.
My best suggestion is to contact the people that installed the equipment or else contact the manufacturer of the equipment to see what possibilities there are for connecting other devices to the system.
Let me illustrate the issue by making the comparison. The TV standards used in North and South America differ widely from the television standards used in Europe and many other countries. Years ago I made a video for someone that lived in France only to learn that he was never able to watch it because it was recorded according to the standards for use in this part of the world. It takes quite a bit of forethought to and detail to make something so simple as a video recording work in other parts of the earth. In a similar manner, the differences between wireless protocols and Internet protocols vary widely.
What I am trying to say is that he has, people do make things work together, but is not as simple as you would hope it could be.
I hope this is of some help to you and that you try to contact the installers are the makers of the equipment to find out what possibilities there are for expansion and interfacing with other equipment.

I hope this is of some help.

Hi
First thing to know is the details of the "camera hub" like what make and model. It may not be net workable at all. If it is then the easiest way is to use Ethernet over power.
Something like this https://www.tp-link.com/au/home-networking/powerline/tl-pa8010p-kit/
You use the leads supplied to attach 1 unit to the camera hub and then plug the other unit in down stairs and plug it into the router. It's just like running a network cable.Sorry for not posting earlier, my mate was working away from home (I know what that's like, it's not great). Anyway, he bought a powerline and everything is working fine now.

Thanks for all of the help, it's much appreciated.

Hello all, so I'm SECOND line network helpdesk. In our COMPANY we launched website for our customers where we gonna upload various tutorials. Main IDEA is to create tutorials in our NATIVE language because most of the customers don't understand english. But I'm out of ideas what kind of tutorials should I create related to network. I already created various VPN tutorials which we offer for customers, how to check your internal ip address, mac address and so on. So MAYBE anyone can suggest anything more?

What is it that your company sells to customers?

And from a support desk standpoint usually the customers themselves are a good indication of where tutorials are needed. If customers haven't come to you with a problem then its probably not worth the time to make a tutorial on something that they aren't requesting help with. However if your support is getting calls from customers for a specific issue then tutorials that cover those issues are a better use of company time and money to help the customers.