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• Rhizobium + Phosphate at 200 gm each per 10 kg of seed as seed treatment are RECOMMENDED for pulses such as pigeonpea, green gram, black gram, cowpea etc, groundnut and SOYBEAN.
• Azotobacter + Phosphate at 200 gm each per 10 kg of seed as seed treatment are useful for wheat, sorghum, MAIZE, cotton, mustard etc.
• For transplanted rice, the recommendation is to dip the roots of SEEDLINGS for 8 to 10 hours in a SOLUTION of Azospirillum + Phosphate at 5 kg each per ha.

For Nitrogen:

• Rhizobium for LEGUME crops.
• Azotobacter/Azospirillum for non legume crops.
• Acetobacter for sugarcane only.
• Blue –Green Algae (BGA) and Azolla for LOW land paddy.

For PHOSPHORUS:

• PHOSPHATE for all crops to be applied with Rhizobium, Azotobacter, Azospirillum and Azotobacter.

For enriched COMPOST:

• Cellulolytic fungal culture.
• Phosphate and Azotobacter culture.

For Nitrogen:

For Phosphorus:

For enriched compost:

• Cost effective.
• Supplement to fertilizers.
• Eco-FRIENDLY (Friendly with nature).
• Reduces the COSTS TOWARDS fertilizers use, especially regarding nitrogen and phosphorus.

• Increase crop yield by 20-30%.
• REPLACE chemical nitrogen and PHOSPHORUS by 25%.
• Stimulate plant growth.
• Activate the soil biologically.
• Restore NATURAL soil fertility.
• PROVIDE protection against drought and some soil borne DISEASES.

With the introduction of green revolution technologies the modern agriculture is getting more and more dependent upon the steady supply of synthetic inputs (mainly fertilizers), which are products of FOSSIL fuel (coal PETROLEUM). ADVERSE effects are being noticed due to the excessive and imbalanced use of these synthetic inputs. This situation has lead to identifying harmless inputs like biofertilizer. Use of such natural products like biofertilizer in crop CULTIVATION will help in safeguarding the SOIL health and also the quality of crop products.

With the introduction of green revolution technologies the modern agriculture is getting more and more dependent upon the steady supply of synthetic inputs (mainly fertilizers), which are products of fossil fuel (coal petroleum). Adverse effects are being noticed due to the excessive and imbalanced use of these synthetic inputs. This situation has lead to identifying harmless inputs like biofertilizer. Use of such natural products like biofertilizer in crop cultivation will help in safeguarding the soil health and also the quality of crop products.

(A) Types of bio fertilizer for sugarcane.

Acetobactor, Azotobactor, Azoospirillum & Phosphate Solublizing Bacteria (PSB)

(B) Rate of application: 12-15 kg / HA

(C) Mode of application:

1. Set TREATMENT: Suspended & mixed THOROUGHLY 5 kg bio fertilizer for one acre in 100 lit of water .Treat CANE set by dipping in this suspension before planting.
2. Soil Treatment: Suspended 5 kg of bio fertilizer per acre in 10 liters of water & mixed with thoroughly with 80-100 kg of FYM. The mixed bio fertilizer in FYM is sprinkled over cane setts in the ROWS at the of planting .Immediately rows should be covered.

(A) Types of bio fertilizer for sugarcane.

Acetobactor, Azotobactor, Azoospirillum & Phosphate Solublizing Bacteria (PSB)

(B) Rate of application: 12-15 kg / ha

(C) Mode of application:

Biofertilizer are ready to USE LIVE formulates of such beneficial microorganisms which on application to seed, root or SOIL mobilize the availability of nutrients by their biological activity in particular, and help build up the micro-flora and in TURN the soil health in general.

Biofertilizer are ready to use live formulates of such beneficial microorganisms which on application to seed, root or soil mobilize the availability of nutrients by their biological activity in particular, and help build up the micro-flora and in turn the soil health in general.

The PRODUCTS of Vermiculture act as environmentally friendly long-term soil conditioners containing nutrients readily available to plants, which greatly improve soil PERFORMANCE and crop yields. Scientific research CONDUCTED into the effects of vermicasts has found 30-50% INCREASES in nitrogen uptake, 100% increases in potassium and phosphate uptake, increases in root length, root numbers, and shoot length, and 40-60% increases in cucumber and tomato yields. There are also reported increases in flavour and shelf-life, though these FINDINGS are not as easily quantified.

The products of Vermiculture act as environmentally friendly long-term soil conditioners containing nutrients readily available to plants, which greatly improve soil performance and crop yields. Scientific research conducted into the effects of vermicasts has found 30-50% increases in nitrogen uptake, 100% increases in potassium and phosphate uptake, increases in root length, root numbers, and shoot length, and 40-60% increases in cucumber and tomato yields. There are also reported increases in flavour and shelf-life, though these findings are not as easily quantified.

In theory, a worm can eat about its own body weight in food per day, depending on the type and quality of worm food and the conditions in which the worms are LIVING. Worms rely on billions of MICROORGANISMS such as bacteria, algae, FUNGI, and nematodes, to soften and break down ORGANIC material before the worm digests both the microorganisms and the organic material. It takes around 90 days for the organic material to be processed by the worms and be READY for harvesting.

In theory, a worm can eat about its own body weight in food per day, depending on the type and quality of worm food and the conditions in which the worms are living. Worms rely on billions of microorganisms such as bacteria, algae, fungi, and nematodes, to soften and break down organic material before the worm digests both the microorganisms and the organic material. It takes around 90 days for the organic material to be processed by the worms and be ready for harvesting.

Worms prefer food that is wet, high in NUTRIENTS and relatively low in carbon. IDEAL foods may include rotting fruit or vegetables, kitchen WASTE, some ANIMAL manures, garden waste and compost, and corrugated CARDBOARD. Worms do not like onion, garlic, shallots or materials with high ammonia or nitrogen levels, or large quantities of fats and oils.

Worms prefer food that is wet, high in nutrients and relatively low in carbon. Ideal foods may include rotting fruit or vegetables, kitchen waste, some animal manures, garden waste and compost, and corrugated cardboard. Worms do not like onion, garlic, shallots or materials with high ammonia or nitrogen levels, or large quantities of fats and oils.

Composting worms are hermaphrodites, with each mature worm having a full set of both male and FEMALE SEX organs, reaching sexual maturity after 55 days. After mating, a cocoon DEVELOPS which may contain as few as three to as MANY as twenty wormlings, DEPENDING on the conditions and food provided to the worms.

Composting worms are hermaphrodites, with each mature worm having a full set of both male and female sex organs, reaching sexual maturity after 55 days. After mating, a cocoon develops which may contain as few as three to as many as twenty wormlings, depending on the conditions and food provided to the worms.

Paradise for a COMPOST worm would be an environment which was pH NEUTRAL, 25ºC air temperature, above 70% air humidity, and between 70 & 90% soil moisture. The soil would contain coarse materials to ensure the soil is aerated, as WELL as fine food PARTICLES of pre-composted organic material.

Paradise for a compost worm would be an environment which was pH neutral, 25ºC air temperature, above 70% air humidity, and between 70 & 90% soil moisture. The soil would contain coarse materials to ensure the soil is aerated, as well as fine food particles of pre-composted organic material.

Identify worm-inhabited soils marked by visible earthworm castings on the soil surface is. Dissolve about 500gm JAGGERY (NATIVE sugar) and 500gm fresh CATTLE dung in 20 litres of water. SPRINKLE on an area 1m x 1m. Cover with straw, leave cattle dung LUMPS and cover with an old gunny bag. Keep watering for about 20 to 30 days. A combination of epigeic and anemic native worms will aggregate here that could be collected and used.

Identify worm-inhabited soils marked by visible earthworm castings on the soil surface is. Dissolve about 500gm jaggery (native sugar) and 500gm fresh cattle dung in 20 litres of water. Sprinkle on an area 1m x 1m. Cover with straw, leave cattle dung lumps and cover with an old gunny bag. Keep watering for about 20 to 30 days. A combination of epigeic and anemic native worms will aggregate here that could be collected and used.

No, so be CAREFUL when you are TURNING your bedding over so as not to CUT any WORMS in HALF.

No, so be careful when you are turning your bedding over so as not to cut any worms in half.

No, they should be OK but try and avoid adding any fresh food material and cover the bedding surface with moist newspaper or Hessian (gunny bags) so as to keep the bedding material from DRYING out. You may also leave mud POTS containing WATER covered with lids, half buried into the pits/tanks. Even if the surrounding material dries up, the earthworms may move and stay beneath these moist pots. If you are planning to go away for an extended time (month or more) you may want to GET a friend or NEIGHBOR to take over looking after your worms for the time you are away.

No, they should be OK but try and avoid adding any fresh food material and cover the bedding surface with moist newspaper or Hessian (gunny bags) so as to keep the bedding material from drying out. You may also leave mud pots containing water covered with lids, half buried into the pits/tanks. Even if the surrounding material dries up, the earthworms may move and stay beneath these moist pots. If you are planning to go away for an extended time (month or more) you may want to get a friend or neighbor to take over looking after your worms for the time you are away.

When first starting a new worm farm the worms need time to GET used to their new surroundings and usually start eating the original bedding material first but then soon move up to the new food source. Add just enough waste first until you can see worms moving around in it, then you can add more from then onwards.

My worms are trying to escape, what I am doing wrong. Worms are very specific about what conditions they live in and if they don't like them they will try to LEAVE enmasse. If this is HAPPENING you must go back and check on the things that may be FORCING them to want to leave. These include what you are feeding them, is the bedding material too moist, the PH level of the bedding material, etc. These problems are usually fixed quickly and easily and without losing too many worms. 

When first starting a new worm farm the worms need time to get used to their new surroundings and usually start eating the original bedding material first but then soon move up to the new food source. Add just enough waste first until you can see worms moving around in it, then you can add more from then onwards.

My worms are trying to escape, what I am doing wrong. Worms are very specific about what conditions they live in and if they don't like them they will try to leave enmasse. If this is happening you must go back and check on the things that may be forcing them to want to leave. These include what you are feeding them, is the bedding material too moist, the pH level of the bedding material, etc. These problems are usually fixed quickly and easily and without losing too many worms. 

You may ERECT a FENCE around the vermicompost MANUFACTURING UNIT and sprinkle or spray PEST repellent around the base of the unit to prevent the pests from attacking it.

You may erect a fence around the vermicompost manufacturing unit and sprinkle or spray pest repellent around the base of the unit to prevent the pests from attacking it.

Excess MOISTURE and LACK of proper aeration can cause MORTALITY of the worms. Provide proper DRAINAGE holes to drain the excess WATER. The water thus drained can be used as a vermin wash for plants.

Excess moisture and lack of proper aeration can cause mortality of the worms. Provide proper drainage holes to drain the excess water. The water thus drained can be used as a vermin wash for plants.

You may sprinkle RED chilli powder on all the sides of your UNIT to keep the ANTS from ENTERING into your unit.

You may sprinkle red chilli powder on all the sides of your unit to keep the ants from entering into your unit.

Yes! But vermicompost is considered superior to other types of compost because of its quality. Moreover earthworms ingest litter, dung and other organic matter and grind it into fine particles, thereby increasing the surface area and promoting FASTER decomposition. The material passes through the body of the earthworm to produce vermicasts. Soils with vermicasts have roughly 100 TIMES more BACTERIA than soil without worms. Moreover plant growth promoting substances have been reported to be PRESENT in vermicasts.

Yes! But vermicompost is considered superior to other types of compost because of its quality. Moreover earthworms ingest litter, dung and other organic matter and grind it into fine particles, thereby increasing the surface area and promoting faster decomposition. The material passes through the body of the earthworm to produce vermicasts. Soils with vermicasts have roughly 100 times more bacteria than soil without worms. Moreover plant growth promoting substances have been reported to be present in vermicasts.

Earthworms feed on organic waste, consuming two to five times their body weight. They use a relatively SMALL amount of their intake for their growth and excrete the MUCUS coated undigested matter as vermicasts. Vermicasts consist of organic matter that has undergone PHYSICAL and chemical breakdown through the activity of the muscular gizzard that GRINDS the material. The nutrients present in the vermicasts are readily soluble in water for uptake by plants. Vermicasts is a rich source of macro and micronutrients, vitamins, enzymes, antibiotics, growth hormones and micro flora.

Earthworms feed on organic waste, consuming two to five times their body weight. They use a relatively small amount of their intake for their growth and excrete the mucus coated undigested matter as vermicasts. Vermicasts consist of organic matter that has undergone physical and chemical breakdown through the activity of the muscular gizzard that grinds the material. The nutrients present in the vermicasts are readily soluble in water for uptake by plants. Vermicasts is a rich source of macro and micronutrients, vitamins, enzymes, antibiotics, growth hormones and micro flora.

Vermiculture can be defined as culture of earthworms. Earthworms are divided into two groups: humus formers and humus feeders. The first group dwells on the surface and feed on nearly 90% ORGANIC MATERIALS. They are generally darker in COLOUR, and are also called epigeic or detritivorous earthworms. It is these worms that are generally harnessed for Vermicomposting. The second groups, the humus feeders, are burrowing worms some of which are useful in both compost preparation as well as making the soil porous. Generally the burrowers help in mixing and distributing humus through the soil.

It has been proved that earthworms can degrade organic wastes speedily and efficiently. However, to increase the efficiency of Vermicomposting, care should be TAKEN to see that worms thrive well on organic matter, breed faster adapting to moisture and climatic fluctuations. The most beneficial feature of Vermicomposting is that it eliminates foul smell of decaying organic wastes, as it is a fully aerobic system. The concept of Vermiculture became well known in the 50s of this century when facilities were set up in industrialized countries of Western Europe for the mass breeding of earthworms. Subsequently, USA, England and France conducted several experiments related to Vermiculture technology for efficient disposal of organic wastes.

Vermiculture can be defined as culture of earthworms. Earthworms are divided into two groups: humus formers and humus feeders. The first group dwells on the surface and feed on nearly 90% organic materials. They are generally darker in colour, and are also called epigeic or detritivorous earthworms. It is these worms that are generally harnessed for Vermicomposting. The second groups, the humus feeders, are burrowing worms some of which are useful in both compost preparation as well as making the soil porous. Generally the burrowers help in mixing and distributing humus through the soil.

It has been proved that earthworms can degrade organic wastes speedily and efficiently. However, to increase the efficiency of Vermicomposting, care should be taken to see that worms thrive well on organic matter, breed faster adapting to moisture and climatic fluctuations. The most beneficial feature of Vermicomposting is that it eliminates foul smell of decaying organic wastes, as it is a fully aerobic system. The concept of Vermiculture became well known in the 50s of this century when facilities were set up in industrialized countries of Western Europe for the mass breeding of earthworms. Subsequently, USA, England and France conducted several experiments related to Vermiculture technology for efficient disposal of organic wastes.

Vermicompost REFERS to organic manure produced by EARTHWORMS. It is a mixture of worm castings (faecal excretions), organic material including humus, live earthworms, their COCOONS and other organisms. Vermicomposting is an APPROPRIATE cost effective and efficient recycling technique for the disposal of non-toxic solid and liquid organic wastes.

Vermicompost refers to organic manure produced by earthworms. It is a mixture of worm castings (faecal excretions), organic material including humus, live earthworms, their cocoons and other organisms. Vermicomposting is an appropriate cost effective and efficient recycling technique for the disposal of non-toxic solid and liquid organic wastes.

About 1 gm of ginger and garlic each, 2GM of green chilli and 5 litres of COW’s urine and water are taken. The garlic, ginger and green chilli are ground into a paste and mixed with cow’s urine and water. After 10 DAYS the mixture is filtered and used. The prescribed quantity is about 500 ml of this solution DILUTED in 10 litres of water which can be sprayed over the plants. The ideal time for spraying this solution is during 6 am to 8.30 am and between 4 pm and 6.30 pm. depending upon the soil, crop and other climatic factors the concentration can be raised or lowered.

About 1 gm of ginger and garlic each, 2gm of green chilli and 5 litres of cow’s urine and water are taken. The garlic, ginger and green chilli are ground into a paste and mixed with cow’s urine and water. After 10 days the mixture is filtered and used. The prescribed quantity is about 500 ml of this solution diluted in 10 litres of water which can be sprayed over the plants. The ideal time for spraying this solution is during 6 am to 8.30 am and between 4 pm and 6.30 pm. depending upon the soil, crop and other climatic factors the concentration can be raised or lowered.

Glyricidia, Pongamia, LEUCINA are common GREEN LEAF MANURING plants.

Glyricidia, Pongamia, Leucina are common green leaf manuring plants.

SESBANIA, Crotalaria, ‘Pillipesara’, COWPEA etc are good for GREEN MANURING.

Sesbania, Crotalaria, ‘Pillipesara’, Cowpea etc are good for green manuring.

Green LEAF manuring refers to ADDING the lopping from legume PLANTS or TREES to a field and then incorporating them into the soil by PLOUGHING.

Green leaf manuring refers to adding the lopping from legume plants or trees to a field and then incorporating them into the soil by ploughing.

Green manuring is the practice of growing a SHORT duration, SUCCULENT and leafy legume CROP and ploughing the plants in the same FIELD before they form SEEDS.

Green manuring is the practice of growing a short duration, succulent and leafy legume crop and ploughing the plants in the same field before they form seeds.

You may apply neem cake and vermicompost once every six MONTHS around the roots of the tree and spray Dasagavya solution over the INFECTED parts of the tree. REGULAR use of Dasagavya will increase fruit production and quality and help control infestations.

You may apply neem cake and vermicompost once every six months around the roots of the tree and spray Dasagavya solution over the infected parts of the tree. Regular use of Dasagavya will increase fruit production and quality and help control infestations.

Compost does SEVERAL things to benefit the soil that synthetic fertilizers cannot do. First, it adds organic matter, which improves the way water interacts with the soil. In sandy soils, compost acts as a sponge to help retain water in the soil that would otherwise drain down below the reach of plant roots (in this way, it protects plants against drought). In clay soils, compost helps to add POROSITY (tiny holes and PASSAGEWAYS) to the soil, making it drain more quickly so that it doesn't stay waterlogged and doesn't dry out into a bricklike SUBSTANCE. Compost also inoculates the soil with vast numbers of beneficial microbes (bacteria, fungi, etc.) and the habitat that the microbes NEED to live. These microbes are able to extract nutrients from the mineral part of the soil and eventually pass the nutrients on to plants.

Compost does several things to benefit the soil that synthetic fertilizers cannot do. First, it adds organic matter, which improves the way water interacts with the soil. In sandy soils, compost acts as a sponge to help retain water in the soil that would otherwise drain down below the reach of plant roots (in this way, it protects plants against drought). In clay soils, compost helps to add porosity (tiny holes and passageways) to the soil, making it drain more quickly so that it doesn't stay waterlogged and doesn't dry out into a bricklike substance. Compost also inoculates the soil with vast numbers of beneficial microbes (bacteria, fungi, etc.) and the habitat that the microbes need to live. These microbes are able to extract nutrients from the mineral part of the soil and eventually pass the nutrients on to plants.

Since these materials are relatively clean and biodegradable, disposal in landfills may be unnecessary and wastes space. In addition, as yard wastes DECOMPOSE in landfills, they generate methane gas and acidic leachate. Methane is a colorless, explosive greenhouse gas that is released as bacteria decompose ORGANIC materials in landfills. If methane is not controlled at a landfill, it can seep underground and into NEARBY buildings, where it has the POTENTIAL to explode. Yard wastes also contribute acidity that can make other waste CONSTITUENTS more mobile and therefore more toxic.

Since these materials are relatively clean and biodegradable, disposal in landfills may be unnecessary and wastes space. In addition, as yard wastes decompose in landfills, they generate methane gas and acidic leachate. Methane is a colorless, explosive greenhouse gas that is released as bacteria decompose organic materials in landfills. If methane is not controlled at a landfill, it can seep underground and into nearby buildings, where it has the potential to explode. Yard wastes also contribute acidity that can make other waste constituents more mobile and therefore more toxic.

Burning leaves and other yard wastes POLLUTES the air and can lead to uncontrolled fires. Leaf smoke can make BREATHING difficult for people who suffer from ASTHMA, emphysema, chronic bronchitis, or allergies. A NUMBER of states currently ban leaf burning, and some communities either ban leaf burning or restrict when and where it can take PLACE.

Burning leaves and other yard wastes pollutes the air and can lead to uncontrolled fires. Leaf smoke can make breathing difficult for people who suffer from asthma, emphysema, chronic bronchitis, or allergies. A number of states currently ban leaf burning, and some communities either ban leaf burning or restrict when and where it can take place.

In contrast to the usual APPREHENSION, the experience is that spiraling (at the LOW doses recommended) is accepted without any problem by those who NEED it. In FACT, the YOUNG children like it usually so much that they “devour” all spiraling left around.

In contrast to the usual apprehension, the experience is that spiraling (at the low doses recommended) is accepted without any problem by those who need it. In fact, the young children like it usually so much that they “devour” all spiraling left around.

The CULTURE of spiraling requires a single ingredient which is not a classical agricultural fertilizer: sodium bicarbonate. This product, however, is very common because it is used for animal nutrition and in other areas. In ADDITION, it is possible to replace it by ASHES of wood. REGARDING to the other ingredients, they are sources of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are common in agriculture.

The culture of spiraling requires a single ingredient which is not a classical agricultural fertilizer: sodium bicarbonate. This product, however, is very common because it is used for animal nutrition and in other areas. In addition, it is possible to replace it by ashes of wood. Regarding to the other ingredients, they are sources of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are common in agriculture.

Technically, PRODUCTION of spirulina, isn'tmuch EASIER than production of rice for example. The problem is not really complexity, but rather newness. Depending on the education level, a training between one WEEK to one month is necessary (much shorter than the YEARS of training for classical agricultural techniques).

Technically, production of spirulina, isn'tmuch easier than production of rice for example. The problem is not really complexity, but rather newness. Depending on the education level, a training between one week to one month is necessary (much shorter than the years of training for classical agricultural techniques).

Composting is not difficult but sometimes the process requires a little extra attention. Here are some EASY solutions to correct certain situations that might occur.

• The composting process takes too long – If the pile does not decrease in size or generate heat, composting may NEED a boost. If the pile is dry, add water and mix thoroughly. If the pile is wet and muddy, spread it in the sun and add dry material. As well, the items in the pile may be too large. Chop them into smaller pieces. REMEMBER to save "old" compost to mix with incoming material.
• The centre of the compost pile is damp, but the rest dry – The compost pile may be too small. Try to keep your composter as full as possible. Mix new with old, dry with wet, breaking up mats and clumps.
• The compost pile is damp and sweet smelling but not heating – The pile may need more greens (nitrogen). Add grass clippings, fruit or veggie scraps or a sprinkling of organic fertilizer from the garden centre.
• The compost pile smells like ammonia – The pile may have too many greens, add more browns (carbon). This will likely happen if you have added too many fresh grass clippings.
• The compost pile smells like sulphur (rotten eggs) – The pile may be too wet and not be getting enough air. Loosen up the pile, break up clumps, unblock vents and perhaps add some WOOD chips to help the pile "breathe." TURNING the pile always helps aeration.
• The compost pile is attracting pests – Compost in a container with a cover to prevent animals from getting into the composting materials. A wire mesh around the base can help to prevent pests from digging under the pile. Dig in or cover food waste immediately. If done properly, composting should not attract pests.

Composting is not difficult but sometimes the process requires a little extra attention. Here are some easy solutions to correct certain situations that might occur.

Composting requires five basic things:

• Organic material
• Moisture
• Air
• Soil microbes
• Lime

Organic material is divided in to "Greens" (nitrogen rich) and "Browns" (carbon rich). Green materials are usually moist like your fruit and veggie scraps, fresh grass clippings or fresh fallen leaves. Brown materials are dried like dry brown leaves or dry grass clippings.

Follow these basic STEPS for more effective composting:

Step 1: Choose an area with good drainage and some sun to set up or build your own composter. Depending on your lifestyle and needs, you may choose to use a store-bought or home-made composter. View our Backyard Composter area for information about the different kinds of bins AVAILABLE. Ideally, your compost area should be at least one metre by one metre by one metre. You do need a fairly large pile for the composting process to begin. If your pile is too small, it will not compost properly.

Step 2:

• When you begin, you may choose to layer some branches or twigs about one foot long or larger on the bottom of your compost pile to allow for air flow and drainage. A thin layer of soil can be added first to provide the soil microbes that will do the work of breaking down your organic material. There is no need to use compost starter, which basically does the same thing by adding soil microbes.
• Then begin to add your materials as you have them. The smaller the pieces you put into your compost heap, the faster they will decompose. You will need to add one-part greens for every part of browns to build a balanced compost heap. It is recommended by some that you layer your greens and browns. However, as long as the ratio is one-part green materials to one- part brown materials, it is not necessary to layer the material as you will be turning the pile mixing these two types of materials anyhow. 
• Fine materials such as grass clippings should be added in smaller amounts so that they do not compact. Compaction means that there won't be adequate air supply. You can also try "grass cycling." See our grass cycling area for more information.

Step 3: Add WATER. Effective composting requires moisture. Add water when you first start your compost pile and each time you turn your pile. The compost pile should be as moist as a wrung out sponge to be composting effectively.

Step 4:

• Turn your pile with a compost aerating tool, pitchfork or shovel every couple of weeks during the growing season to provide an adequate air supply. 
• If your compost pile has a foul odour, it is likely you need to turn the pile more often to circulate more air, reduce watering or reduce the amount of greens in your pile. 
• You will know that your compost pile is working when the material starts to heat up. The pile can get so hot at its centre that you couldn't stand to put your hand there.
• In the winter, your compost pile may freeze solidly. Just keep adding your green and brown material as usual. In the spring, when it thaws, the pile will pick up the composting process just where it left off the previous winter. Only really large compost piles are insulated enough to continue composting year-round.

Step 5: Your composted material is ready to use when it has an "earthy" smell, is dark in colour, cold and most of the materials are unrecognizable. The composting process can take from two MONTHS to two years, depending on the materials used and the effort involved.

Composting requires five basic things:

Organic material is divided in to "Greens" (nitrogen rich) and "Browns" (carbon rich). Green materials are usually moist like your fruit and veggie scraps, fresh grass clippings or fresh fallen leaves. Brown materials are dried like dry brown leaves or dry grass clippings.

Follow these basic steps for more effective composting:

Step 1: Choose an area with good drainage and some sun to set up or build your own composter. Depending on your lifestyle and needs, you may choose to use a store-bought or home-made composter. View our Backyard Composter area for information about the different kinds of bins available. Ideally, your compost area should be at least one metre by one metre by one metre. You do need a fairly large pile for the composting process to begin. If your pile is too small, it will not compost properly.

Step 2:

Step 3: Add water. Effective composting requires moisture. Add water when you first start your compost pile and each time you turn your pile. The compost pile should be as moist as a wrung out sponge to be composting effectively.

Step 4:

Step 5: Your composted material is ready to use when it has an "earthy" smell, is dark in colour, cold and most of the materials are unrecognizable. The composting process can take from two months to two years, depending on the materials used and the effort involved.

• Compost is made up of organic matter, microbes and nutrients that can be used to CONDITION and FERTILIZE flower beds and vegetable gardens.
• Compost is a valuable soil booster. It has HIGH organic matter content and helps return to the soil many properties that are lost over time and with use.
• Compost contains micronutrients that improve plant growth. It ACTS as a "slow-release" fertilizer. Compost also improves the WATER-holding capacity of your soil. So not only does compost help you conserve water, it helps keep your water bill down during the summer months.

1. Do not add lime to a pile because it may cause nitrogen to be released from the pile as ammonia gas. This gas SMELLS bad and leaves your compost with LESS nitrogen, an important plant NUTRIENT for your garden.
2. You don't NEED to worry about the pH of a compost pile. pH, being a measurement of alkalinity or acidity, will generally adjust itself and, when compost is mature, the pH is usually around neutral.
3. If you need to adjust the pH of compost, do this after it has completed its COMPOSTING. First test the pH of your finished compost and adjust it as needed.

Inoculants and activators are not recommended. Inoculants are microscopic decomposers, and they are naturally found in the source materials you add to your pile, such as leaves and grass. They are abundant in soil, finished compost, and manures. Just 1 teaspoon of fertile soil with compost regularly added to it has 100 million BACTERIA and 400-800 feet of fungal threads.

Accelerators are generally a quick fix of nitrogen that won't last long and are a potential source of water pollution as they are easily washed out of your pile into surface and GROUND water. If you need to add high nitrogen "GREENS" to your pile, organic sources like grass clippings, manure, food scraps or EVEN bone meal give a slow release of nitrogen and are better for COMPOSTING.

Inoculants and activators are not recommended. Inoculants are microscopic decomposers, and they are naturally found in the source materials you add to your pile, such as leaves and grass. They are abundant in soil, finished compost, and manures. Just 1 teaspoon of fertile soil with compost regularly added to it has 100 million bacteria and 400-800 feet of fungal threads.

Accelerators are generally a quick fix of nitrogen that won't last long and are a potential source of water pollution as they are easily washed out of your pile into surface and ground water. If you need to add high nitrogen "greens" to your pile, organic sources like grass clippings, manure, food scraps or even bone meal give a slow release of nitrogen and are better for composting.

Shredding or grinding organic materials helps speed composting by increasing the surface area of the compostable, making them accessible to decomposers. But shredding is not essential, except when ADDING WOODY materials such as sticks that will take years to DECOMPOSE UNLESS they are shredded.

Shredding or grinding organic materials helps speed composting by increasing the surface area of the compostable, making them accessible to decomposers. But shredding is not essential, except when adding woody materials such as sticks that will take years to decompose unless they are shredded.

Depending on how carefully you manage your pile for the correct conditions, composting takes from 1 month to 2 years. A pile TURNED every week or so and carefully managed for all the right conditions may compost in a month or two. A pile not turned or managed will take about six months to two years to fully compost.

It is not essential to compost quickly. It's really up to you if you want compost for your garden as soon as possible or if you'd rather wait for nature to RUN its course. Just be sure to compost RESPONSIBLY and turn your pile if it starts to GIVE off FOUL odors.

Depending on how carefully you manage your pile for the correct conditions, composting takes from 1 month to 2 years. A pile turned every week or so and carefully managed for all the right conditions may compost in a month or two. A pile not turned or managed will take about six months to two years to fully compost.

It is not essential to compost quickly. It's really up to you if you want compost for your garden as soon as possible or if you'd rather wait for nature to run its course. Just be sure to compost responsibly and turn your pile if it starts to give off foul odors.

It's best in the shade because the compost is LESS likely to dry out: dry compost does not DECAY.

It's best in the shade because the compost is less likely to dry out: dry compost does not decay.

To help keep pests out of an open PILE, turn food scraps into the pile as you add them, covering them with yard trimmings. Make or BUY a bin that is PEST resistant: one that has a LID & has air holes small enough to keep out small pests.

To help keep pests out of an open pile, turn food scraps into the pile as you add them, covering them with yard trimmings. Make or buy a bin that is pest resistant: one that has a lid & has air holes small enough to keep out small pests.

If your compost PILE emits strong odours, it may not be getting ENOUGH AIR and/or is getting too much water. To fix smelly compost add some brown MATERIAL, mix in some HEALTHY garden soil, aerate the pile, then top it off with a layer of brown material.

If your compost pile emits strong odours, it may not be getting enough air and/or is getting too much water. To fix smelly compost add some brown material, mix in some healthy garden soil, aerate the pile, then top it off with a layer of brown material.

Composting doesn’t have to STOP when the weather gets cold, in fact, you can compost SUCCESSFULLY all year long. ALTHOUGH decomposition will slow down during the winter months – those hard-working microbes are dormant when the internal temperature is less than 10 °C – decomposition will speed up again in the spring. Even if your compost pile freezes ALTOGETHER, you can CONTINUE adding material throughout the winter that will break down when the temperature rises.

Composting doesn’t have to stop when the weather gets cold, in fact, you can compost successfully all year long. Although decomposition will slow down during the winter months – those hard-working microbes are dormant when the internal temperature is less than 10 °C – decomposition will speed up again in the spring. Even if your compost pile freezes altogether, you can continue adding material throughout the winter that will break down when the temperature rises.

The composting process can take from two months to two years, depending on the type of composter, the ingredients, and the amount of effort you put into TURNING the pile. Compost is ready to use when it looks dark and crumbly and none of the ORIGINAL ingredients are visible. A simple way to TEST if compost is finished is to seal a SMALL SAMPLE in a plastic bag for 24 to 48 hours. If no strong odours are released when you open the bag, the compost is done.

The composting process can take from two months to two years, depending on the type of composter, the ingredients, and the amount of effort you put into turning the pile. Compost is ready to use when it looks dark and crumbly and none of the original ingredients are visible. A simple way to test if compost is finished is to seal a small sample in a plastic bag for 24 to 48 hours. If no strong odours are released when you open the bag, the compost is done.

Step 1: Decide on a compost bin and location.

Step 2: Build your compost pile. Start by layering brown and green materials. Begin with a layer of browns, then add a layer of greens, FINISH by covering with a layer of browns ensuring that the materials are FAIRLY evenly balanced by weight, not VOLUME. As you add to the pile throughout the season, continue alternating layers of browns and greens, always finishing with a layer of browns on top.

Step 3: Sprinkle with water (if necessary).

Step 4: Add a couple of shovels of soil, and mix everything TOGETHER.

Step 5: As you add new compost material, turn the compost by moving material from the outside to the centre, and from the BOTTOM to the top and vice-versa.

Step 1: Decide on a compost bin and location.

Step 2: Build your compost pile. Start by layering brown and green materials. Begin with a layer of browns, then add a layer of greens, finish by covering with a layer of browns ensuring that the materials are fairly evenly balanced by weight, not volume. As you add to the pile throughout the season, continue alternating layers of browns and greens, always finishing with a layer of browns on top.

Step 3: Sprinkle with water (if necessary).

Step 4: Add a couple of shovels of soil, and mix everything together.

Step 5: As you add new compost material, turn the compost by moving material from the outside to the centre, and from the bottom to the top and vice-versa.

The composter should be PLACED in a PARTIALLY sunny, well DRAINED, and convenient AREA.

The composter should be placed in a partially sunny, well drained, and convenient area.

Your compost pile requires both CARBON and nitrogen to work properly. Brown materials SUPPLY carbon and they include things like dry leaves, woodchips, dry grass, and paper PRODUCTS. Green materials provide nitrogen and include things like fruits and vegetables, coffee grounds, tea BAGS, and fresh grass CLIPPINGS.

Your compost pile requires both carbon and nitrogen to work properly. Brown materials supply carbon and they include things like dry leaves, woodchips, dry grass, and paper products. Green materials provide nitrogen and include things like fruits and vegetables, coffee grounds, tea bags, and fresh grass clippings.