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my friend has recently FORMATTED his 1gb pen drive
but no computer will allow him to acess it now,
it will show in my compter but when trying to get in to it it says drive not formatted would you like to format now?
when yes is clicked it brings up the windows format window, OK thats fine when ok is clicked to format the drive it will only go so FAR, then says unable to complete format,??
it is a 1gb
looking in the properties folder of the drive it tells me that the drive file system is raw
How can we get the orginal file system to go back on
we have tried disk management, killdisk but to no avail
Is there any thing we can do?

all the best
MattThe RAW symptom occurs when USB drives...both thumb and EXTERNAL are unplugged without using the Safely Remove Hardware option...have him CONTACT the drive manuf. and see if they have a utility for this...cheers Patio
will do also i meant to say #it is a 1gb but only registering 8mb
is there anything that can be done to recover the rest?
Simshi
Quote

have him contact the drive manuf. and see if they have a utility for this...

I bought a used PIII system that has no CD-ROM drive and tried to install a NEW OS via USB.  I found that the motherboard does not support booting from USB so I made floppy boot DISKS for the Windows XP installation.

But now, for some reason, I can't get the computer to boot from the floppy, it keeps trying to continue with the first installation via USB (but gives an error because it's an invalid boot drive).

I've indicated in the CMOS to boot from A:, but it just seems to ignore that.  Any ideas on how to fix this?

THANKS,

PesoHave you checked to see that the floppy is INSTALLED correctly and working?

Do you have another floppy drive you can use?

Hello,

My computer is 4-5-years-old Microsoft XP, and its still running good, but the computer is making weird noises for the past few days. just 2 days ago its been making whistling sounds. and its amking like humming noises, loud and small back and forth. and i HEARD the humming noise back a few months, i;d say like 3-5 months ago and its stopped after i reset it.

But my dad says its only dust in the fan thats making the noise but i don't really believe him and my friends say that my hardware is about to die.

So could you tell me what to do or is my hardware really going to die.
the last time i reformatted my computer was just at the start of September.
My friends also TOLD me that a normal hardware lasts for 3 years and their SURPRISED that my hardware is still running.

Just so you know, i use my computer most of the time and it was custom built.

if you need anymore info, please let me know.Any noise like the one you've described is bad news.   It could be caused by an out-of-balance fan on your processor heatsink or in your power supply unit but then it could also be caused by a failing hard drive.   Noises tend to be precursors for minor or major disasters.

I suggest that you investigate it almost immediately and ensure that your backup is up-to-date.

Good luckI agree, Back everything up right away to be on the safe side. try to listen closer with the side panel off the computer, remember to use proper ESD precautions. to try and PINPOINT where the noise is coming from.Omg my computer is making grinding noises ALOT OF IT!!!!!!!


and its the grinding of like a motorcycle execpt not that loud. Its ocmping from the back of the computer.

i'm going to open it up today after i come from schoolThis may sound silly, but if you very care fully remove your graphics card and cpu fans clean them carefully and PLACE them back in the nosie may stop, is your hard drive hanging freely inside your case it could also be this I'm surprised no one metioned this...

Be very careful when opening your computer case.  Make sure it is disconnected from its power source...you may also want to disconnect any peripherals you have attached to it.

Once you've done the above...open the case and protect your computer from Electrostatic discharge by making sure you are grounded by using a wrist strap or simply touch th exposed metal of your computer's case.

Once you make sure you're grounded...used "canned air"...not a vacuum cleaner to clear the dust and debris from inside the case...especially around the vents and the fans...don't forget the power supply fan, either.

While you have it open...make sure all of the cards and connections are properly seated...and look for any wires that may be interfering with the fan(s).  If your computer is making a grinding noise...it may be a good idea to locate the exact source of the noise and get back to us so we can recommend a replacement for the part causing the noise.

I hope you've found this information helpful...please...keep us posted... Quote from: The Saviour on October 03, 2007, 08:36:03 AM

Be very careful when opening your computer case.  Make sure it is disconnected from its power source...you may also want to disconnect any peripherals you have attached to it.
Once you've done the above...open the case and protect your computer from Electrostatic discharge by making sure you are grounded by using a wrist strap or simply touch th exposed metal of your computer's case.

I wanted a 2nd vid card to multi-task better,
so i take a card from an older pc and stick it in (after powering off the computer and removing all cables), i already installed video cards before, but never a 2nd one
I boot up, go in DEVICE manager to check if windows detects it;
it didn't detect my 2nd one, it detected my 1st one, but now it has ERROR and didn't give it ressources
both my GPU's fans were working, but only my main GPU would display something when I'd plug the monitor in it.
So i decided to remove the 2nd gpu and cold reboot, main gpu would still not get resources therefore i couldn't play 3d video games (Minecraft gives me OpenGL error, and it's a game i play on a weekly basis with never an error).
So i reinstalled drivers and rebooted and now i can use my main gpu, but I'd really like help on understand what happened and/or help on getting my 2nd video card working...

specs:
mobo: asus M4A79XTD EVO
main vid card: radeon 6670 1gb
2nd vid card: radeon x600 PRO 256(?)mb

Thanks for reading.Does the 2nd video card work properly on its own, when your main graphics card is not inserted?

"Resources"... the first thing that comes to mind is a possible IRQ conflict...
As a quick fix try to clear your CMOS and try again with both video cards inserted so hopefully the BIOS will reconfigure itself... Also when you boot your computer up make sure that your second video card is connected to something so it will be marked "active" in Windows.

Also, I NOTICE that the Radeon X300-X1950 series have a different set of drivers from the Radeon HD series.
To Windows they seem like graphics cards from two different manufacturers; installing two different sets of video drivers won't go WELL from my experience.

Hi I have a HP DV6000 laptop I got a few years ago. The fans are always running FULL speed and it makes the laptop quite noisy.
From HWmonitor (which I have had running under a normal stress load: 3 tabs in Chrome, AVG, MSE, iTunes) is reporting temps in the 60's Celsius and hitting the mid 80's Celsius if I try anything fancy (play a game)

I have vacuumed out the fan several times as well as the rest of the computer
I have made a cooler pad that has a fan that LINES up with the installed laptop fan
Room temp is always about 19-20 Celsius.

Any know what else I can do?
Open it right up and clean it fully?
New thermal paste?
Let it be?
More fans in cooler pad? The ones installed dont seem to move much air for the noise they make.

Thanks for the info!!!!!




[regaining space - attachment deleted by admin]Guess this might be needed too, Sorry!


Computer:
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows Vista Home Edition
      OS Service Pack                                   -
      DirectX                                           4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
      Computer Name                                     
      User Name                                         Scott

    Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          Unknown, 2000 MHz
      Motherboard Name                                  Unknown
      Motherboard Chipset                               Unknown
      System Memory                                     4096 MB
      BIOS Type                                         Unknown

    Display:
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce 8400M GS
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce 8400M GS
      Monitor                                           Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB]

    Multimedia:
      Audio Adapter                                     High Definition Audio Controller [NoDB]

    Storage:
      IDE Controller                                    Intel(R) ICH8M SATA AHCI Controller - 2829
      IDE Controller                                    Intel(R) ICH8M Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - 2850
      IDE Controller                                    Ricoh Memory Stick Controller
      IDE Controller                                    Ricoh SD/MMC Host Controller
      IDE Controller                                    Ricoh xD-Picture Card Controller
      SCSI/RAID Controller                              AGGUH12H IDE Controller
      SCSI/RAID Controller                              Microsoft iSCSI Initiator
      Disk Drive                                        WDC WD2500BEVS-60UST0 ATA Device
      Optical Drive                                     TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-L632N ATA Device
      SMART Hard Disks Status                           Unknown

    Partitions:
      C: (NTFS)                                         225184 MB (105701 MB free)
      D: (NTFS)                                         13288 MB (2755 MB free)
      Total Size                                        232.9 GB (105.9 GB free)

    Input:
      Keyboard                                          HID Keyboard Device
      Keyboard                                          Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard with HP QLB
      Mouse                                             Synaptics PS/2 Port TouchPad
Temps are way too high.  Open it up & clean out the heat exchanger.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01035677.pdfJust had time to do this today. Cleaned it all out completely. Not a drop of dust left in this thing, especially the heat exchanger/fan.
Been running the laptop for a few hours now and the fan is a bit quieter and the temps aren't as high. Idling about about 50 for the cpu and 40 for everything else. Still hitting 83 for a max temp.
Installing speedfan now to see if the numbers are the same.
Whats my next step? Thermal compound?HP's airflow design on this model is very poor, that is why it is getting hot. It is HP's fault!
The most effective method is to underclock the CPU a little bit.

Just noticed that it is not ATI graphics card. Try to find a method to underclock the CPU and/or GPU a little, this will really help keep the temps down. It will slow your laptop as well, but most of the times you don't need the full potential of your system.
The details in your 2nd post show you have no Service Pack (SP) installed.  You should have SP2 installed.  Why haven't you? I kind of need it running full bore with my school GIS programs.
I do have SP2. Just not on the list for some REASON.
Bought some new thermal paste today, going to PUT it on tomorrow.
Ya it has a *censored* design. But being a student doesnt give me much options. Ya the thermal paste change didn't help. Still running HOTTER than satan's arse crack.
Guess I'm going to deal with it and save up.
Thanks people!DV6000s use a cooling pad on the north bridge chip which causes poor heat dissipation.  What your going to have to do is take the motherboard out, remove the heat sink, remove the cooling pad and replace that with a 1 mm copper shim.

Here's one on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1mm-Thick-Heatsink-Thermal-Pad-Copper-Shim-for-Laptop-CPU-GPU-x-2-/160772443452?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256ec8cd3c


Be sure to clean the chips with alcohol and replace the thermal grease before putting the heat sink back on.

. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
  Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
  Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
  Accept registry merge.
  Restart computer.

If all else fails it may help to update the chipset driver for Windows 7.  Make sure you select Windows 7 x64 when selecting drivers.

http://support.acer.com/us/en/product/default.aspx?tab=1&modelId=8

CD/DVD Rom was working but right now it stops

Hi,

I currently have an IBM Thinkcentre with Ubuntu Linux (the latest version). I recently hibernated it and haven't used it for a week. All of a sudden, when I turn it on, it does not boot/start with BIOS, nor does the connected monitor even wake up (I've tested the monitor and it works fine). What's more: the front fan all of a sudden runs at full speed and is really loud. I haven't the faintest idea of what's gone wrong. I've tried:

-doing an F1 startup diagnostic - no beeps
-removing and reinserting the RAM cards after cleaning

Neither has worked. The front and back LED's are both lit fine. I've looked inside, and I haven't seen a blown capacitor anywhere. I've provided a picture link - the fan on the left side of the picture is the problem. http://imgur.com/OVPWw

THANK you very much for any help I can get with this!
The front fan is spinning at top speed because the BIOS hasn't loaded and therefore ACPI hasn't kicked in, so the full 12V are being supplied to the fan. 

Have you tried resetting CMOS and booting with only the essentials installed (Power supply, Motherboard, CPU, and only 1 stick of RAM, no extraneous fans or drives or expansion cards inserted)?Haven't tried that - will do so now. Thanks!So I first tried resetting CMOS by pulling out the battery, waiting ten minutes, and PUTTING it back in. It did load the BIOS, and while the fan didn't run at 100%, it was still pretty heavy. On a list of BIOS info, it did MENTION a fan failure - I'm thinking this is the problem? What is unexpected to me was that even after resetting, my boot password still existed. However, I'm not sure what to do next - I got to the BIOS menu, didn't change ANYTHING and elected to continue w/o saving. From there, nothing happened...Here is a link to what came up when I started the computer. Are there any BIOS settings I need to look at in particular? I'm new to this part, and I don't really have any personal settings that I changed manually apart from the boot password that still exists.
http://imgur.com/U0FDh

(sorry about double posting)

EDIT: I was able to restart again without touching the BIOS settings and was able to fully log in. Thank you for the help - your tip was right on the money! Thank you so much! (the only problem remaining is a fan failure - I assume I should replace it?)Yeah try replacing the fan with another one, it may just be that the RPM monitor on the fan has failed, thus causing the motherboard to not be able to POST at the beginning. No biggie.

My printer won't print, light is blinking. I checked the rear side, no jammed paper. It says printer is off. 
bacskai79, you've made 25 posts now, so you should know that no-one can help without more information. That is a COMMON complaint and HP has prepared answers. Did you read them all? Ddid you follow the instructions?
The HP Product STOPS PRINTING and the Power Light Blinks

Paper jam can be  any BIT of paper or other object anywhere in the moving parts of the mechanism. EVEY a potato chip.

Hi! I have a Toshiba Satellite A665D and yesterday i put it to sleep (Fn+F3) then when i came back an hour and a half later the screen was blank, the power button and lights were still on but the fan was not going and it wouldn't respond to anything. When i tried holding down the power button to turn off the power it wouldn't respond to that and I had to take the battery out to kill it. Then when i tried to turn it back on the same thing happened. It would work for a 1/2 second, the power lights would turn on then it would do nothing... blank screen and stop responding to anything. I had the tech guy at the gym i work at look at it and he said the hard drive and memory was fine but was stumped as to the problem. Anyone on here have any ideas??? Quote

It would work for a 1/2 second, the power lights would turn on then it would do nothing.

i need one but they must sell it in euros € thank youDid you already TRY eBay?
A   pad with a fan is about $25

I wouldnt trust e-bay.  Try ComputerGeeks.com, there stuff is fairly good an afordable.  You get what you pay for thoughone pad with OUT fans please
  Without fans? Then you won't have a cooler...So even with google and all the resources out there you not only want us to find you a cooler but also get snippy about which design you would like ? ?

OK...+1 !

Laptops were never designed to REQUIRE an added cooler.  If one does, then something is wrong.
Either the laptop is CLOGGED with dirt and if so needs cleaning. 
Or the operator has totally disregarded all the warnings, about "Never set your laptop on your lap, or any SOFT surface where the air intake PORTS on the bottom can be blocked". 

 or its over heating cause, of poor design yeap its over heating because of poor design what do you recommend? thank u    fileing a complaint with the company an see what they recommend Quote from: Ryuk on March 22, 2012, 11:10:13 AM

fileing a complaint with the company an see what they recommend

my computer cant reproduce HD vids it freezes constantly at 720p but it cant even with 1080p i use cable conection and the CPU usage
is on top with 450p with 360p is 80% the CPU usage
You should provide more information. Some older computers will not do HD very well. Can you watch any videos on YouTube?
Click on this if YouTube videos won't playWhat browser are you using and what are the specs of your computer? Have you updated to the latest version of Flash Player?fire fox no i dont even now in witch web site its AVAILABLE  to install it Quote from: Transfusion on March 28, 2012, 01:07:51 AM

What are the specs of your computer?

my laptop keeps HEATING up i try keping it cool but it stil hot the THRM runs up to 57 C the core 0# up to96 C and the assembly up to 40 C
how can i cool them? thank you Clean the fan. Quote from: COMPUTER 12 on March 10, 2012, 06:25:09 AM

i try keping it cool

my laptop keeps heating up i try keping it cool but it stil hot the THRM runs up to 57 C the core 0# up to96 C and the assembly up to 40 C
how can i cool them? thank you

yeah and they tell me to pay like 20 for making it worse

Hi there, first time poster.

For a few months anytime I do something like watch a movie, play a game, or even listen to music or watch youtube videos my computer will get extremely laggy for 1-3 seconds. I will barely be able to MOVE my mouse and the sound gets all robotic like and it eventually goes away. It is becoming more and more often now and I want to fix it before something serious happens to it. I recently had to get a new motherboard due to problems with my graphics card (on a laptop) so I don't think it would have anything to do with anything on there. Anyone have any IDEA what's going on?

Not sure if this is needed but here is some information on my computer...

Time of this report: 3/30/2012, 18:05:18
       Machine name: MARK-PC
   Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.111118-2330)
           Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: Dell Inc.         
       System Model: Dell System XPS L502X
               BIOS: Default System BIOS
          Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2720QM CPU 2.20GHz (8 CPUs), ~2.2GHz
             Memory: 8192MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 8106MB RAM
          Page File: 3665MB used, 12545MB available
        Windows Dir: C:\Windows
    DirectX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
   User DPI Setting: 120 DPI (125 percent)
 System DPI Setting: 120 DPI (125 percent)
    DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
     DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode


 Card name: Intel(R) HD Graphics Family
       Manufacturer: Intel Corporation
          Chip type: Intel(R) HD Graphics Family
           DAC type: Internal
         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_0126&SUBSYS_050E1028&REV_09
     Display Memory: 1696 MB
   Dedicated Memory: 64 MB
      Shared Memory: 1632 MB
       Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
       Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
      Monitor Model: unknown
         Monitor Id: AUO17ED
        Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.011Hz)
        Output Type: Internal
        Driver Name: igdumd64.dll,igd10umd64.dll,igd10umd64.dll,igdumdx32,igd10umd32,igd10umd32
Driver File Version: 8.15.0010.2342 (English)
     Driver Version: 8.15.10.2342
        DDI Version: 10.1
       Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
  Driver Attributes: Final Retail
   Driver Date/Size: 3/26/2011 04:17:48, 7473664 bytes


I actually got it on video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7e0cpaoNlY&feature=plcp&context=C4da4ba2VDvjVQa1PpcFPkEtwtZLOstR8ObQtdJ6pXdZJFJrY3isQ%3D

Sorry for the poor quality it was filmed with my phone


*I also have an Nvidia card in here but for some reason it doesnt SHOW up on the dxdiag

Also sorry if this is in the wrong sectionHave you installed the latest nVidia graphics drivers which include Optimus (an nVidia power saving technology which alternates between integrated graphics and discrete graphics based on graphics load to save power) for the GT 540M which your computer has?


If you boot in Safe Mode and try to play a song or watch a movie does the problem still occur?

Hey, this is my first time custom building a Pc and I want to get it right without any SCREW ups haha. Can anyone tell me if these produces are compatible and any good, my Budget is about £1500 ($2386.5) I have a vague idea of what I'm after but just want to check things over before I commit to building this . Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated!

-COOLER MASTER COOL HAF 932 (not sure yet, but want a high end cooling case to keep that beast of a graphics card from heating up the rest of the case)
-Asus MAXIMUS IV GENE-Z/GEN3 Motherboard (Not decided yet, but had a look at this ONE. If anywhere this is where i need some advice)
-Intel i7 2700k (wanting to overclock this to about 4-4.5ghz)
-G.Skill Ripjaws Z 16GB (4x4GB) Quad Channel Kit DDR3 2133 PC3-17000 RAM
-Sapphire Radeon HD 6990 graphics card (possibly in overclocked setting)
-OCZ 120GB Agility 3 SSD x2 (Possibly in Raid0)
-Corsiar HX1000W PSU (not sure on system wattage yet but pretty sure i need 1000w)
-Corsair H100 Hydro CPU Water cooler (Maybe the H80/H70 but i would like to try for a higher CPU overclock if possible)

Thanks in Advanced!quick update, motherboard is now properly going to be the Asus Maximus IV Extreme. Still need any advice thanksClose to top-of the line parts-you can't really go wrong here.
Here is a neat PSU wattage calc for you to use: http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

The only thing I can think of is that the HD 6990 costs $699, whereas 2 HD 6950s in CF cost $500. The HD 6990 only has one fan cooling 2 GPUs attached to 1 heatsink, so noise may be an issue; if you are planning to overclock then heat will definitely be a problem.

2 HD 6950s may in fact be quieter and your OVERCLOCKING potential will definitely increase. At stock clocks the HD 6990 will pull AHEAD of this setup in some applications due to it having higher clocks, but when overclocked the HD 6950s are in the lead.
I don't think its worth +$200 to save a single PCIe slot.
2 HD 6970s cost ~$710 and definitely outrun the HD 6990.
Also:
Asus Maximus IV Extreme
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131700 ($289.99)
2700K
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115095 ($339.99)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i7-3820
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115229 ($309.99)
Asus Sabertooth X79 LGA 2011
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131801 ($329.99)
About the same price and you can upgrade to Ivy Bridge-E when it's released, if you are a high-end enthusiast...Thanks for some great advice, did you mean if both the Radeon 6990 and 6950 SLI are overclocked then the 6950s will be slighly ahead? Or did you mean if the 6690 is stock and the 6950s are overclocked?
At the moment the 6990 card I'm looking at works out cheaper than the 6950 SLI configuration.The overclocked 6950 Crossfire will be ahead if you compare it to an overclocked 6990 and may have a longer lifetime than the 6990 due to far better cooling. Quote from: Transfusion on March 30, 2012, 08:35:55 PM

The overclocked 6950 Crossfire will be ahead if you compare it to an overclocked 6990 and may have a longer lifetime than the 6990 due to far better cooling.

I have an eMachines T4852. Until last week it was running XP very well. Last week I downloaded Windows 8. This also ran well but I found the Operating System to be very clunky so I decided to reload XP using the Recovery CDs (3 of them). I have been unable to completely load all three CDs except on 2 occasions when the XP Display Window came up but nothing else - no Start button or anything. Most of the time when I load the CDs the machine will spontaneously re-boot half way through the loading process.
Any ideas?
When you downloaded the Windows 8 sample,
- did they tell you this would happen?

What kind of recovery CD do you have?

No. They did not mention any problems.
Windows 8 ran well. I just didn't like it.
The three Recovery CDs I have are marked T4852, "Restore CD", "Version 1.0".
When I run them I get a Symantec Ghost 7.5 program. This runs for a while & then just stops without reaching a prompt.
It stops randomly at 7 percent, 51 percent, etc.
It is a shame because when the machine is running it runs well. It is just a problem in loading in the software.
I loaded the Windows 8 software while the XP was running.
WOW!    You are right. They do not give any warning. Even the tobacco companies give your a warning. (Because its the Law.)

In shat, my recommendation is go get another hard drive. Get XP to work an the spare drive, then explore the original drive.

About seven MONTHS ago PCWorld had an article that implied you need to be careful. They recommend a Virtual Box thing.
Quote

How to Download and Install Windows 8 Into a Virtual Machine
Here's how to download and install the Windows 8 Developer Preview into a virtual machine on your PC.
By David Murphy, PCWorld    Sep 15, 2011 12:00 pm

We've shown you how to go about installing the new Windows 8 developer preview on a brand-new hard drive or a partition of your EXISTING hard drive--that's easy.
However, most of you probably just want to check out Windows 8 without making a commitment to installing the OS on its own separate drive (or drive portion). No problem! You can still FIDDLE with the new OS in an environment that's much easier to remove once tinkering time ends, thanks to the power of virtual machines--applications that let you run a virtual PC inside your PC (cue Inception music).  ...

format /FS:FAT32 X:
**Note: You need to change the X to the letter of your drive

That not only formats the partition, but it tests and certifies every sector and blocks out any bad sectors.

As a FAT32, I am at a lose for words I can publish here. Utterly Unbelievable. Even Linux won't touch it. Hangs on FAT32 format. Every time.

I was in the middle of doing my EVERYDAY stuff (facebook and whatnot) when My PC just turned off. When I powered it back on, Everything came on, fans spun, drives spun, HDD LED lit up, but there was no post, no beeps, and the POWER LED did not light up at all.  I removed the RAM to see if it would beep, but no it did not.
...and the make and MODEL of your PC is ....??

What is the Operating System ??

What EXACTLY where you doing when it turned off ('everyday stuff' isnt specific enough)

Any recent changes?  New Software installed recently ?  Anything DOWNLOADED recently ?The PC itself is a custom build, using a BIO-Star G31-M4 with Pentium 4 2 GB RAM 160 GB seagate HDD Logisys PSU (500w) and an Nvidia GPU. I am running WINDOWS XP, and I was using Facebook when it went down. recent download is Simracway about 2 days agoPower down and re-start it a few more times and see if you get a Post beep...Only new hardware installed is the PSU as of 2 months agoSee above...may be a faulty PSU.I have done that several times. but nothing appears on screen and I get no post at all.
PSU works Beautifuly. As I said, EVERYTHING comes on and spins, even the HDD lights up. but I get no beeps when I take out the RAM, and I get no postBorrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there.I dont have one. OLD one is 250WUpdate....

        I proceeded to swap back to the original PSU, which is the 250W stock PSU that came with the original case. I removed all but the HDD and I still had the same issue, along with the matter that I forgot to mention that the machine will not turn off unless I unplug it.  My wife let me borrow her PC's stock 350W PSU, and still the same issue.  I then switched the CPU to the older Celeron D 2.4 Ghz. Still the problem persists.All components are running, but no power LED light up, and no post, only now the HDD isn;t spinning this time.  I may have to shell out 60 Bucks I don;t have to replace the MOBO. I am open to any other alternatives as to what else I may try.

I have this PC with a AMD At hon 64X2 Asus MZN-MX SE mob. that just won't boot up. I tried unplugging my hardware(RAM, DVDPlayer,Etc...) But nothing works. There is a GREEN LED on the board and it is lit up. All fans RUN when power on. Thanks in advance.  Has this computer ever worked? Is there anything you can tell us about when it stopped working correctly?

First of all, the computer won't boot if there's no RAM.

The green LED only means the board is getting power, nothing more. Fans spinning also means they're getting power, nothing more.

The board you mentioned has on-board video (NVIDIA GeForce 6100). Are you using this or are you using a separate video card? If you're using a separate card, make sure you plug the video cable into the right port (the video card, not the on-board).

Make sure the video card (if you're using one) and and RAM is seated securely and properly and all necessary power cables are connected (the video card may require a power cable, but can't say for sure without knowing what it is). If you've changed the RAM, make sure the RAM meets the requirements of the motherboard:
2 x 240-pin DIMM, support max. 2GB DDR2 800/667/533 ECC and non-ECC, un-buffered memory

To get to the POST (Power On Self Test), at the very least you need a working power supply, motherboard, processor, RAM, and an on-board video chipset or a video card. All other hardware (DVD drives, hard drives, mouse, keyboard, etc.) are not required to begin the POST which the computer does EVERY time it TURNS on.

No POST or error messages/beeps could indicate a bad power supply, bad CPU, or something just not being connected correctly.I left RAM in. And unplugged the others. Tried a different Power Supply. Nothing. If it ever worked? I GOT it like that so I presume it did before. And I don't know it history. If the causes could be power supply or CPU. Well seems to point at the CPU. I guess I will scrap it and keep whats good on it. Thought maybe it was something else. Thanks for the advice.

Ok so first off i realize my first mistake was ordering a custom from cyber power pc. Beyond that i took care of my computer.... always cleaned of dust managing software clutter and what not. The problem STARTED one night when i was playing WoW and an old friend stopped by to say hi. So i logged off and let my comp idle on the desktop. About 30mins later i went back to it to show my friend a few things and i noticed my computer was off. Hmmm ok well i tried to unplug and replug the cord, switching the power setting on the psu and nothing worked. I carefully took out the psu (which was an xtremegear 750w) and replaced it with another to test (a thermaltake 460w). I managed to get the computer on but then it would just turn off 3 seconds later. When i switched the setting on this one to a lower setting it stayed on but i got no video which i mistook as not enough power for the video card. Now to today. I just recieved a 750w corsair and a new video card to put in my system and it just turns on then off repeatedly. I have removed my ram and troubleshot them. No change. Then i removed the vid card and still no change. I tried resetting cmos and it just wont stay on. I have noticed my CPU cooler fan wont spin like it should and fizzles out. So i thought it was the cooler but when i replaced it with my older cooler master heatsink it still didn't change a thing. Now this is the first post i have made and ive searched and searched for other options because god help me if my mobo is dead. The specs off the top of my head are as follows:

Mobo- Asus sabertooth x58
psu- corsair tx 750
vid card- Evga nvidia 560ti
ram- 3x Kingston Hyperx 2gb
cpu- Intel core i7 1366

  I just wish i could get an error code or something from this thing but it just turns on then off.. and im out of ideas.also i just noticed that those red LED lights for dram and cpu are on i looked further online and that there means an error sooo any ideas?It can be caused by a virus or  corrupt BIOS  or faulty motherboard component.....

Quote from: nk on April 04, 2012, 12:04:08 AM

It can be caused by a virus or  corrupt BIOS  or faulty motherboard component.....

I have noticed my cpu cooler fan wont spin like it should and fizzles out.

hi all.

was on my little netbook last evening and needed java installed for something so i let it install java and everything was working fine. then eventually SHUT it down. this morning the computer won't start.
i GET the dell flash screen and the blue bar showing loading but it only goes about two thirds of the way across and then stops.
tried getting into safe mode but can't. can't get into bios either and the only other screen i get says:
system bios shadowed
video bios shadowed
fixed disk 0: [i~gCpuc0KSM=P]P>15-032MS 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

the computer is a dell mini 9
the ssd CARD is a 32 GIG card with win 7 installed.

i have an 8 GIG ssd card with win XP installed and i put that back in it and it works fine....but the 32 SSD card is the one with the problem.

hope i can fix it cause i just bought that card a month ago and it wasn't cheap!

but with that card in it, i can't get into the bios or get the boot menu.

i see mentioned somewhere that the bios shadowed  means it possibly can't access the SSD card?  man i hope there's some fix  

any IDEAS?
thanks!hey i got it fixed!!!!!

removed the ssd card to get into the bios so i could change the startup options to usb first.
then put my win 7 install usb in and restarted the computer.
when it was running i flipped it over and reinstalled the ssd card.
then used the win 7 repair option and restarted and it worked!
YAY ME!  (and thank you Lord!)

Problem started when PC quit booting, just beeped.

I added new memory 4GB - but when I turn it ON, all it does is beep - one short and one long, then pause, then the same. I checked some charts but did not see this beeping sequence. It's an HP M8300F.

Would be AWESOME if SOMEONE KNOWS how to solve this issue.http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=ca&dlc=en&docname=bph07107&lc=en&product=3644702#N194
Memory problem-One short and one long.

Is it possible to test the new memory MODULE in another computer? Also, try clearing CMOS and switching the RAM modules AROUND in different slots...I followed the link you posted and followed the process. I took one memory off and checked for beeping. The last one caused the beeping issue!

Thanks a lot for the link!

my dvd rom in my LAPTOP make chucking sound  and reads dvd even if there is no dvd inside it,everytime i run a program like firefox,ms word,photoshop etc. im using windows 7 64bit and im using asus k53sv laptopProbably time to "chuck" it out, then.

Does it still read DVD's and CD's properly? Any software or SHORTCUTS that are trying to address the optical drive?no PROBLEM with its functions,buti THINK a program is trying to access it.but i dont KNOW which program.is there an application to determine that?

I upgraded my old laptop with ram it had ddr2 512mb and i bought another one ddr2 512mb, laptop has two slots for ram. after ram upgrade laptop shuts down like after 2-5min everytime i start it on. when i take the new ram out, everything comes back to normal. what seems to be the problem? my laptop is asus a6m, amd sempron 1,6 ghz, 60gb drive. using xp sp2.Either a BAD RAM MODULE was installed (that does happen) or the replacement RAM is NOT either compatible with the computer or the other RAM module. What happens to performance if only the new RAM is placed in the computer by itself? Try it in both slots.truenorthWrong RAM...so i placed only the new ram and it works fine. i gues it's not compatible. but numbers seem to match, the old ram - 512mb 2Rx16 PC2 - 5300S - 555 - 12 -A2 and the new ram everything is the same except for the LAST number it is A3. is that so very important?http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=A6M&Cat=RAM
It should have worked.  I assume you tried the single RAM in both slots?
Shutting down after 2-5 minutes USUALLY indicates overheating.  I think it's just a bad RAM connection.
Did you have the RAM module fully seated in it's slot?
Reseat them both in the slots a few times which will wipe the contacts clean.tried in both slots. i even took out the old ram and put new ram in its place and when it's alone it works, but when i placed old ram in new slot it shuts down. it can't be overheating, laptop is clean and when there is one ram inserted it doesnt shut down. i even put new ram to one slot and then the other slot and it is working perfectly but when i put both of them it shuts down. maybe motherboard isn't somehow accepting, don't know. i'm glad i only paid 2$ for ram... Quote from: rejnis on April 03, 2012, 05:35:32 AM

... i'm glad i only paid 2$ for ram...

I have a tempermental power lead which keeps causing my laptop to turn off unexpectedly. It did this MORNING then went on to do a system restore. When it came back on all the files were still intact but all the LETTERS have changed to shapes. Even when i GO ONLINE it STAYS the same. Would appreciate any help at all.
Are you sure its the lead? If the lead is 'temperamental' then the laptop should switch to the battery. It shouldn't the laptop to turn off.

• PROCESSOR brand and model
• Hard drive size and speed
• Amount of MEMORY (RAM)
• Graphics card
• Operating system

My computer information:

Intel Core i5 CPU 750 2.67ghz x4
8 gigs ram
Windows 7 64 bit
ATI Radeon HD 4600 series(graphics card)

So I'm not sure what exactly is going on. I tried playing Civ 5 today and the graphics were a bit off. SWTOR's graphics were also off. Plus my desktop display is slightly bigger than it should be. Text seems a bit off in various things as well. And videos viewed on netflix are less clear. This happened today. I haven't downloaded any files or changed any SETTINGS. Not 100% sure if anything updated, but maybe adobe flash player? But would that affect everything else? I mention this because under control panel - system and security adobe flash player is labeled 32bit, not 64bit which my computer is running. Under control panel - system and security - system, the information says its running a 64 bit operating system. Shrug.


So FAR I've tried adjusting the resolution, restarting my computer, reinstalling the graphics card drivers, and uninstalling the graphics card drivers and reinstalling them. This obviously has not worked. The drivers are the latest available.

Is there a way for the computer to auto-detect the best settings for your computer(in case mine somehow got off?) Maybe a program I can download to do this or something that already comes with the operating system? Any other suggestions or ideas?

QUOTE from: riotboi on April 05, 2012, 04:08:43 PM

adobe flash player is labeled 32bit, not 64bit which my computer is running

Hello! This (like my last problem) seems like it will be fun. You all helped me so much last time, so here goes!

Computer
MSI 870A-G54 motherboard
AMD Phenom II x4 Processor
2 sticks of 8g RAM (16g total)
Radeon HD 5670 Video Card
Corsair GS600 PSU

Windows 7 Ultimate

The Problem

My computer will randomly restart, SOMETIMES while I am working on it but mostly while I am away. I live alone so no one could be restarting it. This causes problems because sometimes I leave things open (like browser pages, or text files). I have not recently added any hardware, or changed any programs. Also restarts in Safe Mode.

What I have done

-Ran Memtest86+, no errors
-Checked and monitored temps, all is good
-Did the regular cleaning out of the case and computer (blew out dust, reseated video card and RAM)
-Ran Blue SCREEN Viewer (dump below) This is the only dump file created, although there are many System Events in my Event Viewer that say *The system has rebooted without cleanly SHUTTING down FIRST. This error could be CAUSED if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly*


==================================================
Dump File         : 040312-42759-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/3/2012 11:52:00 PM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000116
Parameter 1       : fffffa80`0a5f9430
Parameter 2       : fffff880`03eab9e0
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : 00000000`0000000d
Caused By Driver  : dxgkrnl.sys
Caused By Address : dxgkrnl.sys+5d000
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+80640
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040312-42759-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 343,872
==================================================



I have heard that this may be related to DirectX and video card drivers, so I rolled them back (still restarts randomly) and made sure they were properly updated (still restarts)

Thank you for any and all help.
...If it restarts in Safe Mode even with the default Windows drivers... I'm almost 100% positive its a hardware problem, especially judging from the fact that your graphics card won't even run properly at stock clocks from your previous problem.

I strongly suggest that at this point you get any old graphics card, pop it into your PC and see if the problem resolves...
Just get one of these old PCI graphics cards off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nvidia-GeForce-32MB-3D-GRAPHICS-PCI-VIDEO-CARD-/330712983151?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash=item4d0007a66f#ht_1182wt_1139
Total cost ($12 = 983 Yen)
and keep it in case you need to do any further troubleshooting in the future, since you don't have onboard graphics.Thank you so much Transfusion, I will try that. I am waiting on a new graphics card anyways, will retest and see if it fixes the problem.

Hi all, I just recently bought the Creative Sound Blaster Recon 3d pcie sound card to run my ps3 audio with an optical cable into my computer and then output through my 5.1 speakers but I can't seem to get it working. Can anyone give me a hand at fixing this?Your output is a 5.1 speaker system. But it is not clear what the input device is. And it is not clear why you had to buy a sound card.
And is the sound card for the computer or the PS3.
An which device has optical output?
And which device has optical input?

The optical input on many new computers is for a network. You did not say what model computer you have.

Please rotate what you are doing and you will get some help right away.
The optical output is from the ps3 into the the pc optical input on my soundcard. I had to get the soundcard because i had no other way of hooking the ps3 audio into my pc to run off my speakers. My pc is a custom built and its specs are listed on the specs below my picture on the left.

This is my soundcard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102041
Her's my mobo  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131665RExcuse my ignorance. I didn't know the PS3 has three audio outputs. But for 5.1 audio you can not use the basic audio connection. It has to be either HDMI or Optical. The optical is PCM and should be compatible with eh sound card.
Audio Output Settings for PS3
So hyou already check the basic audio out and got two cannelse using arhe analog connection. But your want the 5.1 sound, a feature of then PS3. which has to be optical to get into your sound card.

Well, I am not much help. The is not easy way to test an optical link. Not any I know of. But I know zero about optical links anyway.
I've done everything that i could with the ps3 settings for the audio output so its somewhere with the pc settings but I can't figure it out.
I can't ind the manual for the card you have. This must be a picture of it. It shows an optical input.



Maybe somebody else here knows about this card. Quote from: joevh09 on April 04, 2012, 06:58:43 PM

My pc is a custom built and its specs are listed on the specs below my picture on the left.

Also, under "BD/DVD Settings" in the PS3 settings menu make sure the Optical Digital Output is set to "bitstream" not to "PCM."  This will pass the Dolby Digital and DTS soundtracks to your receiver for true multi-channel sound decoding.  If set to "PCM" then you will only get two-channel PCM sound over the optical connection.

By Joel Strauch, PCWorld    Oct 26, 2000
A Dolby Digital 5.1 sound card can reproduce sound through six separate channels: front left, front right, center, rear right, rear left, and a subwoofer for deep bass. (The subwoofer, as the low-frequency channel, is represented by the .1 in the 5.1 name). Regardless of what sound card you may choose, note that your card and speakers must have matching digital connections, and that sometimes the Dolby Digital encoding is handled differently by various manufacturers. If you plan to buy a card from one vendor and speakers from another, check with the vendors to be sure that their products can make sweet music together.

The $199 Platinum 5.1, powered by the EMU10K1 audio processor that comes standard in all Sound Blaster Live cards

I am tired of struggling with my HP 4500 All-in-one wireless printer.  It works fine some of the time and at other times i get very frustrated with it.  It (inadverdantly) refuses to use oem cartridges,  locks up, sends out error messages, prints 1/4 page (vertically) ...   I have decided to quit fighting it and  get a different one.  Can you advise me as to what a good choice would be?
 
For home use (not office)
Price cap $125.00
Preferably wireless but not mandatory
4-in-1 attributes (printer,scanner, copier, fax)
Will accept REFILLED cartridges.   (I don't like being chained to HP replacement cartridgges)
Will operate with Windows 7 x64
Will perform WELL in Arizona climate after setting unused for several days (90 degrees inside, 10% humidity).

Any advice will be appreciated.   Thank you...That is a tall order. If you find one, I want to know. That is why I am posting here.  I have an HP  that cost us about  $200 at local store. It has excellent quality, but drinks like a fisherman. Ink, not beer. I could afford it if it drank beer and not ink. 

It is hard to find a 4 in one under $140 anywhere.

Thanks for the comeback.   Will let YO know if i find one...lol..
Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 06, 2012, 01:05:53 PM

It is hard to find a 4 in one under $140 anywhere.

Ok so i made a post a few days back as to my motherboard issue. I did enough troubleshooting to single the motherboard out as the issue. Turns out the piece of *censored* xtreme gear psu PROBABLY fried it as it failed. I've been scouring newegg for a mobo. Specs are as follows:

Psu- Corsair Tx750
cpu (which might need replacing as well considering the mobo being ruined) Intel core i7 1366
Ram- 3X Kingston 2gb Hyper X
Vid Card- New Evga Nvidia 560ti
Hd- Seagate 1tb

Bad mobo- Asus Sabertooth x58
 
   Now im posting this for some help figuring out which mobo i should replace it with.... I dont want to run into this mobo issue again any time soon.

  I was looking at an EVGA 131-GT-E767-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 SLI 3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard but im not loaded with cash so i need to get this right. I just want my computer back...  Approximately same feature set as your Sabertooth X58, but I do notice that in some of the reviews people have received DOA boards...


That board is a mid-end X58 board in terms of price RANGE... It should work fine, no frills.


http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14875 
"Stay away from XtremeGear components; they may be cheap but you are getting what you pay for." Quote

Bad mobo- Asus Sabertooth x58

. Intel x58 chipset has been out for a while now and the market has been well served with motherboard choices CARRYING this chip set. ... ANOTHER common ploy is adding SATA 6 Gb/s and USB 3.0 to make the boards more future proof. Promises of overclocking capabilities, longer life spans... announce that ASUS has returned with their TUF line to bring forth the Sabertooth X58! The Sabertooth claims to do all of these and more with stringent quality testing and a five-year warranty. ...The TUF line seems to have a strong following and this board looks good next to t...

I have 2 eMachines, one of which does not work well.
If I decide to replace it, which, in the opinion of the group, the best machine to buy as regards Quality and Reliability?
OK Le's say you haw a good enough monitor. and  keyboard.
I will start. Is money not an issue? It must be and that is why you tried e Machines.

Lots of things can be best. DEPENDING on what the objective is. This is not a beauty contest - Right? would vote only for the most attractive COMPUTER.
Did you say Desktop?
Is it for playing cutting edge games?
Only for surfing the INTERNET? Use you phone to SURF the web.
Are you going  to take it apart and put it back together once a month?

You can pick up a single core Pentium with 2GB RAM and 80 GB HDD with DVD burner for underUS $200 as a brand name refurbished unit from a certified reseller. No choice of color, case style or extras  Just a off-lease reliable PC that they don't want on the lease anymore.

Any attempt to get more 'bang for your buck' just cuts into the r quality . If that were not so, the lease PEOPLE would have high-end super PCs for sale. Actually they do, but they cost more than a new PC.

Remember the old Chinese proverb:
"A 2 GB stick in the slot is worth more than 4 GB in the trash."

Which means most of the refurbished PCs are 32 bit single core with only 2 GB of RAM. But hey just work. They come with Windows XP SP3 freshly installed. Some have a one year warranty. Same as a new computer. For a LOT less money.

Yahoo needs some business. Do a Yahoo search for
refurbished PC with XP
You will find some prices and pictures on-line.

Here is one:
Refurbished IBM at Wal-Mart

GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 AMD 9 Series Motherboard
AMD FD8150FRGUBOX FX-8150 Processor - Eight CORE, 8MB L3 Cache, 8MB L2 Cache, 3.60GHz (4.20GHz Max Turbo), Socket AM3+
Crucial Ballistix BLS2KIT4G3D1609DS1S0 Desktop Memory Kit - 8GB (2x 4GB), PC3-12800, DDR3-1600MHz
Crucial CT064M4SSD2 m4 2.5" Solid State Drive - 64GB, SATA 6Gb/s
HDD WD 1.5TB SATA3 7200RPM 64MB Cache
EVGA GeForce GTX 460 SE 1GB
ViewSonic VX2250WM-LED 22-Inch
Logitech X-530 5.1 Speaker System
Lite-On IHAS124-04 Internal DVD Writer - DVD+R 24X, DVD-R 24X, DVD+RW 8X, DVD-RW 6X, DVD+R DL 8X, SATA
Midi Tower Green X-Cruiser
Diablotek DA Series 600-Watt ATX Power Supply PSDA600
12-in-One Internal Card Reader
Windows 7 Ultimate (x64)

I recently built this computer.  But it keeps randomly restarting after Windows boots up.  It restarts more and more frequently as I use it, but it never restarts before the windows login screen.  I also notice it's likely to restart sooner if i move the mouse around a lot in the login screen.

It's not a heat issue because my processor never runs over 55C.  There are no warning beeps either, and the fans and lights never stop or flicker.  What's odd is that it works flawlessly in Safe Mode.

It's not the RAM either because Windows detects the full 8gigs.  And i restarted with each stick independently and problem remains.

I tried swapping HDDS but the issue remains regardless of the harddrive inside.  I also swapped my video card with a geforce 8400 GS thinking it might be a PSU problem, but that isn't the case either.

Live cds work, but I can't even install XP or WinServer2008.  All of my drivers are installed as well.

I'm thinking the problem might be my motherboard.

Any help will be appreciated.  Thanks.Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyHow do i run a scan?  I see two white boxes when i open that.

Btw, windows xp and xp 64bit work without problems.  But windows 7, server2008, and 8 CONSUMER preview all reset randomly on me.I've read a few topics using google of people with similar problems.  They fix the situation by lowering or raising voltage in their RAM or CPU.  Can anybody guide me through this?  I'm afraid of burning something or shorting something out accidently since i've never overclocked before.ref: How To Disable the Automatic Restart on System Failure in Windows XP
link: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/tipstricks/ht/disautorestart.htmI disabled automatic restart but it still restarts anyway. And this problem doesnt HAPPEN win widows xp anyway. It only happens in windows 7. Quote from: Nukem on MARCH 31, 2012, 10:28:50 AM

It's not the RAM either because Windows detects the full 8gigs.  And i restarted with each stick independently and problem remains.

Live cds work, but I can't even install XP or WinServer2008.

I'm thinking the problem might be my motherboard.

id the laptop isnt showing the hard disk as a bootable device, whats going on here and how should i proceed. THX everyone. New to forum. all HELP is appreciated.If the BIOS doesn't detect the HDD chances are the HDD has failed.How old is this laptop? Can you access the HDD to ENSURE a connection hasn't come loose? truenorth

So I ran the memory test on some questionable memory.  Thing is that it says that its going from test 8 to 3.  Doesnt it give you a completion notice or somethin?  I had this run for least a day an a half know  Which memory test? This one:
Quote

Memtest86 Memory Diagnostic CD-ROM
A Memtest86 diagnostic CD-ROM is available from BradyTech Inc. The Memtest86 CD-ROM includes:
    The latest version (4.0) of Memtest86 pre-installed and ready to use
    ...
    A boot menu that allows users to select the above test programs
    An extensive user guide with simple step-by-step instructions for using Memtest86 to ...

so it loops no matter    It was more then an hour an was kind of question able

MS Memory Diagnostic uses HANDY colors during the test indicate the program status.

Blue – Indicates a test is in progress.
Green Green – Indicates one of six passes during the test has been completed.
Red  Red – Indicates a test pass has failed and confirms that you have bad memory.

Mem86, like the topic says 

I cn't help ypou with "mem86", it is not available.

Can shipping a Hard drive Damage it?YesWhile ST's response is certainly correct, as long as the heads are properly parked and the drive is packed carefully it shouldn't be a problem. LET's face it, most of us order drives that are ultimately DELIVERED by UPS or FedEx or a similar service and reported problems are extremely rare.I guess you could say my answer, like the question, was a little brief. I could address a hundred issues that might have been raised, but weren't. Such as:

Is it impossible for a drive to be damaged in shipping? (The shipping company says so) No, it is certainly not impossible.

What sort of things might damage a hard drive during shipping? Chemicals and moisture, sure. Also vibration, dropping, being thrown about, in short, rough handling. The risk of damage from this cause can be reduced by proper packaging. For example, Amazon now make a point of telling you that they ship all their Western Digital drives in "WD certified packaging". They had a big problem about 2 years ago when they started using "frustration-free" packaging for many items. This was OK for some things like DVDs and pen drives,  but LOTS of hard drives were arriving DOA and they were forced to change. (Google for stories like "Amazon’s ‘Frustration-Free’ Packaging Leaves a Trail of Dead Disks"). Of COURSE it's much easier to damage a hard drive when the platters are spinning and the heads are unparked, but they are inherently fragile electro-mechanical devices and should be packed and treated carefully.

Did I goof when I sent a hard drive to a customer in a Cheerios box? Probably.

Maybe if the OP were to be a BIT more specific about their concerns?

I have looked around the internet for answers to this and have found too much contradicting information for me to be sure about this..

Can a DVI Y splitter provide an extended desktop environment (not cloned) to two identical monitors from a single port on a computer??

Seems like a simple question, but there is too much contradiction between other forums and i want to be sure before i invest too far into any project

Also curious, does this still work if it is a HDMI to DVI adapter then plugged into the DVI splitter??Hi

The answer is no. The same information will be on both monitors. To get  an extended desktop you would need to outputs from the video card (most modern cards and motherboards have this) or to buy a hardware box that say runs 3 or 4 monitors. which is quite expensive.
Is there some sort of software that will make the computer think of two or three displays with a VGA splitter of DVI splitter as a single monitor, with a large resolution?? Quote from: zeroburn on April 07, 2012, 10:27:00 PM

Is there some sort of software that will make the computer think of two or three displays with a VGA splitter of DVI splitter as a single monitor, with a large resolution??

All of a sudden my computer does not recognize my external hard drive which was drive K. I have a Dell E310 running windows XP Service pack 3. The drive is a Seagate FreeAgent Desktop. There is no installation disk...it is a plug and play. It is listed under disk drives in device manager but not in disk management. I checked and it says the driver is current and device is working properly. I have had it plugged into a USB hub since it's been connected and all other devices plugged into hub work fine. Have tried different USB ports both on the hub and on the computer itself. I am somewhat knowledgeable about computers but this is beyond my limited scope. Can anybody help?Try the drive on another computer to make sure the drive is still viable.Thanks. Will need to find another computer to use.
Tested external drive and it is working. What should I try next?
Failure to recognize USB devices in not a rare problem.

Here is a related post on a Microsoft Site that shows how common this problem happens.
Quote

I have windows 7 Toshiba laptop, i have two Usb ports that fail to even get power to them or light up my flash drives or anything there's no power in them at all. I have tried system RECOVERY, unistalled all Usb drivers and reintalled, trouble shooted, and nothing seems to work. I myself think it is a hardware proplem but, if anyone can help me please do.

Where do I go from here? Or is it time to take it into computer repair shop?

I am pretty much a beginner in computer repair. Can you explain what a PCI card is and how I would go about installing it? Sorry if I sound a bit stupid.

Been getting this message RECENTLY about my hard drive failing soon and to backup all my documents etc.
I ran a self test from the bios and it failed both.
Is there a way to test if it's actually failing (since I'm on it right now and haven't noticed anything amiss)?

If it is actually failing could someone suggest what harddrive to purchase? I've never bought a hard drive before and was wondering if there was something I should know before going out and buying the first one I see at a decent price.

I also included my dxdiag as an attachment in case ANYONE needs to see more information on my system.

Thanks for reading and hopefully we can get this sorted out.

[year+ old attachment DELETED by admin]It's failing. Back up critical data and replace it. Just stick with a name you know (Seagate, Western Digital, Maxtor, etc). Quote from: Allan on April 09, 2012, 04:24:35 PM

It's failing. Back up critical data and replace it. Just stick with a name you know (Seagate, Western Digital, Maxtor, etc).

Hello all.

Today I purchased an Acer Aspire ONE AOD270. It contains an Intel Atom N2600.
When I have the computer under a stress test for 15 min (15 min at 100% consumption)
The temperatures of the CORES (both) get up to 60C. Is this normal? Or is this too high?
How hot can the CPU get before things get damaged? What temp should I begin to get worried?

Also, Just for general reference -- Do Laptops run hotter then Desktops? are laptops made to withstand high temperatures?Anyone?  Basically, Desktops are easier to cool with forced ventilation. However, Laptops should be designed for lower power consumption.

At the present time, Desktops have a slight advantage in cost, heat and performance. But desktops are to large to cray with you.

But that is clanging. With the new technologies, a CPU does not have to be hot to be 'hot'. More performance with less power is now available.

Having said that, you should take that back to the store for a full refund. That kind of heat and CPU load is way out of line for a brand new out-of-box laptop. You would ERECT the things to start at about 35 C and rise to about 55 C tops.

Somebody please correct me. Is 60 C right for anew laptop?


QUOTE from: Geek-9pm on April 08, 2012, 01:35:31 PM

Basically, Desktops are easier to cool with forced ventilation. However, Laptops should be designed for lower power consumption.

At the present time, Desktops have a slight advantage in cost, heat and performance. But desktops are to large to cray with you.

But that is clanging. With the new technologies, a CPU does not have to be hot to be 'hot'. More performance with less power is now available.

Having said that, you should take that back to the store for a full refund. That kind of heat and CPU load is way out of line for a brand new out-of-box laptop. You would erect the things to start at about 35 C and rise to about 55 C tops.

Somebody please correct me. Is 60 C right for anew laptop?

Where is this information from? Is there one from the Intel site? At what temp should I get worried?

Yes, 100 C is a max given in one place, but 50 C is in another place. But there is a trip at 125 C.

Okay..Now I'm confused. Can someone clarify?

Yes, 100 C is a max given in one place, but 50 C is in another place. But there is a trip at 125 C.

Im running my Gateway FX P-78 to my 55" Samsung TV via a Monster HDMI cable, i have the TV set up to run 1440x900 60Hz, IV had issues with other games but the main game im having issues with is World of Warcraft, im getting a drastic drop in frame rate about EVERY minute or so for about 5-10 seconds, im running the game at the highest graphics and it runs 60+ FPS and drops to under 5, I also tried turning the graphics down to the lowest and the same thing happens. I have the game graphics set up at 1440x90 and 60Hz refresh, this is KILLING my ability to play well, id appreciate any help anyone could give me, if you have any more questions about the SETTING in the game or the TV/Computer please ask,
Thanks again Quote from: bjuno87 on April 08, 2012, 06:06:04 PM

Im running my Gateway FX P-78

Hey guys ive been experiencing these two blue screens.

Error: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION

Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL.

I have updated my drivers, downgraded done a clean install of drives etc...

I also ran my pc in safe mode for sometime to determine the source being hardware or software and its obviously software since it didn't occur in safe mode.

I also go the following information using whocrashed program for the SYSTEM SERVICE error:

crash dump file: C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\040812-18891-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x70540)
Bugcheck code: 0x3B (0xC0000005, 0xFFFFF80002ADE41F, 0xFFFFF8800A1250D0, 0x0)
Error: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
BUG check description: This indicates that an exception happened while executing a routine that transitions from non-privileged code to privileged code.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver which cannot be identified at this TIME.What happens if you shut the computer down and restart as is pertinent to this issue?truenorthDownload BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply==================================================
Dump File         : 040812-18891-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/8/2012 11:53:27 PM
Bug Check String  : SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000003b
Parameter 1       : 00000000`c0000005
Parameter 2       : fffff800`02ade41f
Parameter 3       : fffff880`0a1250d0
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70540
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7600.16917 (win7_gdr.111118-2330)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+70540
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\040812-18891-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7600
Dump File Size    : 290,816
==================================================
Just the one blue screen error? You said there were multiple errors.Which was why i ASKED as i did in my earlier post.I saw more than "one"= "experiencing these two blue screens.". However even two does not make the phenomenon a regular event and i was interested to know the likelihood of REPETITION if the computer were shut down and restarted.This on the thought that it could be a specific program related.truenorth

Hi, every body, we ALWAYS use ghost to ghost all HD data to all computers in computer classroom.
but it takes a long time, And when I want to install a new software LIKE CAD or my CAD NEED to update, I should ghost all data again.

does any body have GOOD solution to solve this problem?----When I install a software, deploy the software to all computers immediately.

Thanks.

I am not sure I am in the right place My daughter has a Dell 1545 Inspiron laptop.  It has been having issues off logging off.   I have TRIED the FN key and it worked a couple of time  now it is stuck on logging off and WONT completely log off.  Any ideas?What is your operating system? What brought on the necessity To USE the "FN" route to log off? When you say log off are you relating to closing/changing a user account or do you mean shutting the computer down? truenorth

Hey everyone,

Im running 64bit windows 7 with directx 11. I have an i7-2700K CPU 3.50GHz and 8GB RAM. As you may be aware that particular PROCESSOR has integrated graphics. I have a SEPARATE graphics card - a Sapphire AMD Radeon HD 7870. My issue is that when I boot my computer an alert BOX comes up. "The catalyst control center is not supported by your enabled graphics adapter. Please update your amd graphics driver, or enable your amd adaptor using the displays manager." I am positive I have the most up to date drivers available for both the intel and amd graphics.
When I try and open Diablo 2 on direct3D it comes up with "error 25: a critical error has occured while initializing Direct3D" and a similar error (error 22) if I try with Direct Draw. If I go to dxdiag like most places have suggested, the following info is there:
(Display) Device
Name: Intel (R) HD Graphics 3000
Manufacturer: Intel Corporation
Chip Type: Intel(R) HD Graphics Family
DAC Type: Internal
Approx. Total Memory: 1696 MB
Current Display Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
Monitor: Generic PnP Monitor

DirectX Features
DirectDraw Acceleration: Enabled
Direct3D Acceleration: Enabled
AGP TEXTURE Acceleration: Enabled

- There are no Disable or Enable buttons like some websites suggest using.
- I'm under the impression my DXDiag should have my Radeon as the display device, not the intel but am unsure how to go about changing this.I might mention that I can play MineCraft without problems.

my hp netbook is using too much ram it uses like 85-98% when doing nothing what the is going on Are you having any specific problems with the system other than that? Quote from: mtwyne on April 06, 2012, 12:57:37 PM

my hp netbook is using too much ram it uses like 85-98% when doing nothing what the is going on

This is sending me nuts. Please help. My pc has a hard drive of I60g. I recently transfered all my files, music, video, documents, programs, etc to a new computer and the total came to 89g. Yet my hard drive in 'computer' c:drive shows I40g in use. My recovery d:drive is only 8g. I've been searching through my 'tree' and can't find any system folders large enough to account for this extra size. I've even looked in 'hidden files'.
 I'm a real retard when it comes to computers so I'm not SURPRISED I can't solve it, but I know enough to understand it ain't an easy answer...
 If you can help you will really be saving me from throwing my laptop at the ffing wall in about 3hrs time
 1) Did you empty the recycle bin after moving the files?

2) Is system restore enabled? If so, that's using a huge amount of space.

3) Download tressize and use it to see where the space is bing used (http://www.jam-software.com/treesize_free/)Thank you ALLAN, you are a real genius. Problem solved. xGlad to help. What was it?it was a mixture of recycle bin$ and windows sys. windows sys?No, my bad. It was actuallt the 'System Volume Information' which was weighing in at 4g.I'm trying to delete it now, but I get the pop up saying 'some files in use' 'retry'.

Also, can I ask you - on the TreeSize my 'Windows' accounts for nearly 30g. Surely this can't be right? But I'm scared to delete anything as it may f*** with my system.

Any advice? Thanks. (like I said, I'm a real 'tard computer wize.... System Volume Information files are your system restore files, as I suggested above. You can delete all but the most recent restore point using Disc Cleanup.

First, WATCH your language.

Second, what does treesize say is using the most space in your Windows folder?

Third, don't delete anything except as suggested in this thread. Use Disc Cleanup. Also, you might want to consider a larger hard drive.Thanks for the language warning, I'll try to clean it up along with my hard drive
My C:drive shows 90g of use which I can account for with music, pictures, documents. A further 30g is used by 'Windows' and a the last 4g is used by 'System Restore'.
Everything else is nickles and dimes and doesn't affect any.
Once I go DEEP into each branch of Windows and System restore I don't understand what is safe to delete and what isn't without affecting SMOOTH running of my pc, etc...TreeSize will show you the size of the specific folders in Windows. Which files and folders are the largest?It's taking me a while to work it out. I'll get back to you asap.
Thanks for input so far.
Z

if you can please tell me how thanks 
Probably not. Generally the GRAPHICS chip is SOLDERED to the motherboard and based on all the INFORMATION you've GIVEN, i couldn't possible tell what laptop you have.

Why not google it and see........on some YES but not on mine

I have a desktop with Win XP  Pro. This is a custom model with IDE drive 80 gb.  Recently, I went to Driver Max and found that I had 15 drivers that needed updating.  I went through about 11 with no problem and no particular change in the system.  Then I think I went to a driver that was connected to a mouse driver. Suddenly my Microsoft Intellimouse explorer 2.0 's function froze.  the pointer is setting in the middle of the screen.  I have changed batteries, syncronized , and swore all to non AVAIL.  The pointer will change to a hand etc so I see no problem with the XP OS.  I have very limited use of the up down keys and I can't work the accessibily screen to get mouse keys. I wanted to get to system restore to see it that work, but I can't navigate the screen.  Is there a way to improve my navigation function with the keyboard or does any one have an answer to the frozen mouse? (BTW I tried to use a p/2 mouse, didn't work
drhckAre there any system restore points from before you upgraded the drivers?
What was the name (or approximate name, if you can't really remember) of the driver that caused the mouse freezing?

To activate MouseKeys, press Left Alt+Left Shift+Numlock.1) NEVER use 3rd party apps for drivers.

2) Drivers should only be updated if there is a specific need or reason to do so. There is no such thing as a driver that needs to be updated simply because there are newer drivers.

3) Drivers should only be obtained from OEM websites and, in the case of laptops, from the computer manufacturer.Good advice, but a bit too late.See if you can get to system restore from safe mode. If not, try it from a command prompt:

Here are the instructions for starting System Restore from the command prompt:

When the system first boots start tapping the F8 key until you get to the Advanced Startup Options Screen. Then Choose "Safe Mode With Command Prompt...
When the command prompt is displayed, type the following: [systemroot]\system32\restore\rstrui.exe (the system root folder is the folder to which you installed the XP operating system files, usually c:\windows).

Press Enter

Now you can follow the instructions on the screen to use System RestoreHaving the mouse keys function allows me more felixability so I went to device manager and found no: MOUSE, there was keyboards modems etc but no mouse. What ever happened, the mouse is not in device manager.  Thoughts on restoring this?  Also, I went to sysem restore and found it would only allow April restoration. I tried it and no luck.  The mouse froze in MARCH. I think there is hope if I can get the mouse into device manager.Have you tried a different mouse?I tried a wireless mouse with the adaptor...no luck.  It is the mouse that I use on this computer. I tried an old Ps/2 mouse...no luck.I guess you can try a repair install - can't hurt:

BOOT to the XP CD and choose the SECOND repair option, allowing XP to install on top of itself. After completion you'll need to go to Windows Update and download & install all updates (except for hardware & driver related updates, which should never be downloaded from Windows Update - only from the OEM websites). Here is a clear tutorial on how to perform a repair install: http://www.geekstogo.com/forum/topic/138-how-to-repair-windows-xp/

Seemed to do nothing.  It would not install updates on a SQL thing.Sorry, I don't understand your post.There is no driver for the mouse. There is no function (working) mouse keys now. The windows xp sp3 disk did manage to start windows normally but no function mouse or mouse keys.

Hi there.
               Ive looked in to this and still struggling with an answer, my pc in question is an RM SFF 2.4 GHz celeron, 1.5 GB RAM and 32 MB of on board graphics. Wanting an on board graphics card to IMPROVE performance.

My question is although i understand AGP Aperture limit in bios, which is 32 MB is there a limit to graphics memory i can use, say could i use 64 MB or 128 MB or even 256 MB or is there a physical limit to and extended graphics card size, i really would appreciate the help, thanks in advance if any one can help me with this question.

Dave.  That memory limit in BIOS only applies to the onboard graphics. If you get an actual graphics card, then that limit does not apply. I'm not really sure I fully understand your question though.Thanks for your reply, my question was what is the graphics memory limit on an extended card, i know the bios aperture for graphics controls amount of system memory accessed for graphics use, i was looking to find out if a 64 MB or 128 MB card could be used as an extended upgrade to the graphics of this older machine, it don't need to break no RECORDS its only for the kids and normal internet use.

The on board graphics being 32 MB is a bit sluggish, 128 MB would do fine if it was possible, the interface is AGP X4 small form factor the OS is Windows XP professional 32 Bit the mobo is a Winbond with a 478 socket, not sure if this better describes my question.

Many Thanks.

Dave.  AGP Aperture size dictates only the size of the memory block reserved for transferring data from System Memory to the AGP card's video memory.

A Separate graphics card can have any amount of on-board memory. This is not limited by the motherboard or any CMOS settings.Thanks for your help, now ive got another issue, odd form factor RM pc 160 watt atx psu, i cant find much above that power limit that will FIT.

Ive found an RM Ascend atx psu 250 watts but not sure if it will fit my case, sizes in mm are the same in the sellers add, so ive got an AGP X4 spare slot and been trying to find some power requirements on 128 MB graphics cards, as standard the machine came with the mobo and psu combo, i would think it could support 64 MB graphics card, maybe, but unsure of 128 MB graphics card.   

Thanks again for replies.

Dave.

My LCD screen sometimes randomly turns a blue TINT. It's annoying because it's kind of hard to look at and obviously I can't see colors correctly. Is there any WAY to stop this, or is this just the unavoidable aging of my monitor? Even as I'm typing this, the screen is having LITTLE spazzes between normal and the blue tint. And now it's stuck at blue.It could be the connection to your video card. try moving the cable near the video card output and see if your monitor turns back from bluish to normal... mine tends to go purple so. If that does not work what kind of monitor are you using...because monitors do burn out if they are older tube styles, not so much for the new lcd or led monitors. Quote from: ixlr8x3 on April 05, 2012, 08:47:47 PM

If that does not work what kind of monitor are you using

My LCD screen sometimes randomly turns a blue tint.