Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Hi, Folks. I hope someone can help me with this one.

I have a HP desktop, Model aL61ON that will not start up.

-- When I unplug and replug the power cord, the little green light on the power supply comes on for just a moment and the FAN makes about a quarter turn.  What is the green light all about?

--And here's the odd thing.  When I disconnect all the interior cables and power up the green light comes on and STAYS on!!! I do not recall if the fan starts blowing or not.

Does ANYBODY have any idea what's going on?  Green Light is GOOD! Normal...

So if everything is connected no power up and with everything disconnected it POWERS up?

Does anyone know if it's possible to fix/repair an error on a recorded mini dvd?
I've been trying to record a mini dvd (recorded from a handheld Sony camcorder) but halfway through the PROCESS it stops and states there was an unrecoverable error and then aborts.  I know that the my dvd drives are working because I've recorded other mini dvd's with no problem.
Any solutions?
Thank you. Quote

I've been trying to record a mini dvd,[...] but halfway through the process it stops and states there was an unrecoverable error and then aborts

I recently REMOVED a video card from my system because it was bad. My mobo has an onboard display adapter. When I booted up windows will not show my DVD or my CD writer. All my hardware shows up on the POST and in BIOS. I have tried replacing the ribbon cables and checking the CONNECTIONS. Please help....untill I resolve this issue I cannot install my graphics drivers from the CD.....Very odd that removing a video card caused all of this... If you have an internet connection with system you can download and install drivers directly vs CD Rom.

I would go to hardware manager in windows and tell it to detect hardware changes.

Right Click My Computer
properties
Hardware
Device Manager
( Look in there to see if you see your drives listed...If listed Windows sees them if not listed then you either have hardware issue or need to have windows detect them.)
To detect hardware changes select the computer icon at the top below help and it is "Scan for hardware changes". Run that and see if that detects hardware and registers hardware changes for OS to see drives.

Good Luck!

Go to device manager & Click on the + sign next to cd/dvdrom then right click on the device & UNINSTALL do on both. Re BOOT the system windows should recognise themIf the above doesn't help...

Try one of these:
1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
or...
2. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on downloaded file, and allow registry merge.
or...
3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

I am now at the end of my teather ..... after installing WINDOWS vista on my pc it restarts every once in a while with a blus screen of DEATH
 saying something like "memory crash dump"  then it proceeds to count to 100 (but very fast)
 then restarts... this only happens with Vista and not xp can anyone shed any light on this please??
Many thanks
all the best
Matt

Motherboard   
CPU Type   DualCore AMD Athlon 64 X2, 2362 MHz (11 x 215)
Motherboard Name   ASUS M2A-VM  (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 1 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Video, Gigabit LAN)
Motherboard Chipset   AMD 690G, AMD Hammer
System Memory   3072 MB  (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM)
BIOS Type   Award (06/26/07)
Communication Port   Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port   Printer Port (LPT1)

Memory
2x4gb 800Mhz   

Display   
Video Adapter   GEFORCE 8500 GT  (512 MB)
Video Adapter   GeForce 8500 GT  (512 MB)
3D Accelerator   nVIDIA GeForce 8500 GT
Monitor   Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB]  (000795)
   
Multimedia   
Audio Adapter   Realtek ALC883 ATI SB600 - High Definition Audio Controller
   
Storage   
IDE Controller   Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
IDE Controller   Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller

Partitions   
C: (NTFS)   37999 MB (23926 MB free)
D: (NTFS)   37999 MB (33624 MB free)
E: (NTFS)   38464 MB (38373 MB free)
H: (NTFS)   38146 MB (3923 MB free)
I: (NTFS)   238464 MB (124810 MB free)
Total Size   381.9 GB (219.4 GB free)

   
Network   
Network Adapter   Realtek RTL8168/8111 Family PCI-E Gigabit Ethernet NIC (NDIS 6.0) 
   
DMI   
DMI BIOS Vendor   Phoenix Technologies, LTD
DMI BIOS Version   ASUS M2A-VM ACPI BIOS Revision 0901
DMI System Manufacturer   System manufacturer
DMI System Product   System Product Name
DMI System Version   System Version
DMI System Serial Number   System Serial Number
DMI System UUID   E026025D-F642DC11-B7C1001B-FC893740
DMI Motherboard Manufacturer   ASUSTeK Computer INC.
DMI Motherboard Product   M2A-VM
DMI Motherboard Version   1.XX
DMI Motherboard Serial Number   123456789000
DMI Chassis Manufacturer   Chassis Manufacture
DMI Chassis Version   Chassis Version
DMI Chassis Serial Number   EVAL
DMI Chassis Asset Tag   123456789000
DMI Chassis Type   Desktop Case
DMI Total / Free Memory Sockets   4 / 2
M2A-VM
When did this start happening?

Any downloads/installs/hardware changes/ect....?

Desktop or Laptop?

Quote

this only happens with Vista and not xp can anyone shed any light on this please??

Hi
I have a Canon i550x printer which until a few weeks ago printed perfectly. Now when I print out anything the colours are very pale. The black is ok. I have run the clean nozzles and  deep clean set-ups. Checked all sorts of adjustments. Installed new inks but whatever I do I cannot get the colours to print correctly. Tried different paper settings, but all to no avail. Is there a life span to these machines as I cannot see any mention of this fault in the Help Menu or Print Trouble Shooter.So you have changed the color cartridges?
What about the black ink cartridges? How do you know they're ok?

In my experience, bad color quality was the result of low blank ink, so you might want to LOOK into that.

Also, can you make sure you're not printing Drafts. (Usually in Print setup)If I'm not mistaken, sometimes when the black is low, like Carbon said, the printer will draw from and combine colors to make black.

Alan <><  You pop up at the strangest times, Alan. My wife just left for work and my office is in the garage.  Before I have to climb the stairs I usually take a whack at the forums. 

Alan <><  Heh, all right.There is a method to the madness 

Alan <><  Have checked. The black is almost half full.
I have just printed a test sheet in 3 colours without black of the LETTER A, in 72 point, Bold 'Arial Black' and they have come out 'faded'. There appears to be horrizontal missed lines across the whole page of letters especially the Blue. As I said before I gave the nozzles both a Clean and Deep Clean.How exactly did you clean them?

Can you make sure you're not printing drafts.

If you have any spare black ink cartridges, I would try them out and see if there is any difference. Quote

Installed new inks

i have gotten a Compaq Model 5BW120 2HO7DTY9616F An not matter what drive aka western,segate the 95 install comes up saing that there is no drive or it NEEDS drivers installed.  Does it only work with maxtor or something?Hey, look what I've found in my 51 pages of unread topics. A half a month old post from Squall.

So buddy, you still need help with this? Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on December 06, 2008, 09:00:50 AM

Hey, look what I've found in my 51 pages of unread topics. A half a month old post from Squall.

So buddy, you still need help with this?

This is indeed good news...

we just about would expect now I have another issue.

It seems that a capitor was broke which mite of been causeing voltage issues.  I'm going to replace it.  However it was tring to tell me that I needed a 38 psu.  But I need to take into account everything I have.What's a 38 PSU ? ?
Are you soldering this capacitator yourself ? ?
Be prepared to lose a MBoard...sorry 38 watt powersupply.  yeah, why?  I'm getting one exatly the same value an everything.  i cant afford to lose the board.A 38 Watt PSU may run 2 hard drives and a CDRom...did you mean a 380Watt ? ? Quote from: Dead_Reckon on December 05, 2008, 10:22:54 PM

For one, I bought the 550W PSU before I bought the 8800. I pieced the computer together as i could afford to buy the parts to rebuild it. Never knew this 8800 would eat so much power. As for your requested specs, here they are patio:

My desktops specs are:
Intel Pentium D 805 2.66GHz/533FSB/2MB L2 (about 77w)
LGA775 Foxconn M7VMX-K series M-ATX motherboard with the nVidia nForce 7050/610i chipset (about 80-100W)
XFS 8800GS 384MB 192 bit PCI-E x16 2.0 GPU (about 350W)
D-Link Air Plus G DWL-G510 PCI WIC (a few watts, 2, 3, maybe 5)
Primary HDD: Hitachi Travelstar 60GB 2.5" SATA150 (Don't know)
Secondary HDD: Western Digital WD3200JB 320GB 3.5" IDE (Don't know)
Optical drive: Lite-On LDW-811S IDE DVD burner (Again, don't know)
And finally, my desktop has 9 fans cooling it, soon to be 10 or 11 when i install a couple side panel fans.

Adds up to about 520-530W, not counting the amperage, like I said, GPU eats about 20 some amps, I got it on both rails (I think) with a 2 molex to 6 pin ADAPTER. I know for a fact the PSU is over heating though. You never want to run a PSU over 50%, and this WAY over that, near the 75% mark I'd bet while gaming. As a note, I'm running the Hitachi because its the only SATA drive I got and the IDE bus is buggy at best under continued load on this motherboard.

I've listed the fans below, 'cause, maybe one of you will be able to tell how much power I'll really need. I think each eats about .5W 'less there 50mm or smaller, dunno though. Don't think they really eat much though.
2x 80mm front intake fans
1x 80mm top exhaust fan
1x rear 92mm exhaust fan
1x 92mm CPU heatsink fan
1x 40MM chipset heatsink fan
1x 50mm mosfet fan
1x 50mm GPU fan (built into heatsink)
1x 120mm PSU fan (built into power supply)
I'm installing a 70mm side intake fan to cool the GPU, and a 92mm side intake to blow over the chipset 'soon as I get more dremel cutting discs.

[EDIT] I just got an idea, might be a bogus one, but I'll probably try it. Maybe if I cram a high flow fan in the PSU it'll stay cool enough to game with? I'm crazy enough to try it, get one that's like, a 100+ CFM 120mm fan. Sure, it'll sound like a jet turbine ready to implode, but, my PSU might not cook.

[EDIT] Call me crazy, but I'm going to go ahead and buy a 110CFM fan when I get the money, this Sythe Slipstream 120MM Fan.

It seems that a cap(aci)itor was broke

They last longer if there not hot enough to burn you all the time in case you didn't know.

There's 3 conversations going in this thread now...

Accessless, nothing is overclocked. Read and research before assuming. As for the fans, I like keeping things in my machine cold. They last longer if there not hot enough to burn you all the time in case you didn't know.

I just got an idea, might be a bogus one, but I'll probably try it. Maybe if I cram a high flow fan in the PSU it'll stay cool enough to game with? I'm crazy enough to try it, get one that's like, a 100+ CFM 120mm fan. Sure, it'll sound like a jet turbine ready to implode, but, my PSU might not cook.

I'm replacing an old hard drive in a friends computer (SMART failure predicted), so I'm basically copying the hard drive. It's an 80 GB Western Digital IDE drive, to run Windows XP.

My question is about PARTITIONING- should i just keep the same settings for it when I format it or should I be doing something different? Should I just split it into two- 40 gig for system, 40 for data?

Obviously I'm a rookie, any help is much appreciated.

Thanks!
~JIf you have a seperate partition for data, make sure that your data fies, target the drive letter that designates your data partition. Otherwise the data files and downloads go to the partitionm with you OS on it. Quote from: five40josh on January 22, 2009, 02:35:18 PM

I'm replacing an old hard drive in a friends computer (SMART failure predicted), so I'm basically copying the hard drive. It's an 80 GB Western Digital IDE drive, to run Windows XP.

My question is about partitioning- should i just keep the same settings for it when I format it or should I be doing something different? Should I just split it into two- 40 gig for system, 40 for data?

Obviously I'm a rookie, any help is much appreciated.

Thanks!
~J

windows directX compatible audio hardware,ASIO compatible audio hardware,recommended for LOW latency performance. How do I determine if my current system has this or,request it in a new LAPTOP? I'm too lazy to re-type this in my own words:

ASIO (Audio Stream Input/Output), developed by Steinberg, is a cross-platform, multi-channel audio transfer protocol that is being adopted by many of the manufacturers of audio/MIDI sequencing applications. It allows software to have access to the multi-channel CAPABILITIES of a wide range of powerful sound cards.

ASIO expands on the basic capabilities of a standard computer sound card, most of which can only provide stereo (two-channel) audio input and output. The ASIO specification defines the interface that manufacturers of professional audio sound cards must use to create an ASIO driver for their hardware. This driver allows the host audio/MIDI application to "see" all of the inputs and outputs available on the sound card. The user can then assign these I/O ports as needed for recording or playback when using an ASIO-compatible software program. This allows the users to record more tracks simultaneously than the previous LIMITATION of two CHANNELS imposed by a standard sound card.

Basically lets you listen/record at the same time, otherwise known as a full duplex sound card.

No idea how to find out though Quote

Basically lets you listen/record at the same time, otherwise known as a full duplex sound card.

Ever thought about using your laptop as a synthesizer or digital effect-box? Did you notice there's some delay related to the computer's sound processing?

The USB ASIO driver is the solution. It enables buffersizes down to 32 samples (0.73 ms) and creates an ultra highspeed USB audio connection, bypassing the operating system's audio.

This does not only give you low latencies, but better sound...

http://www.usb-audio.com/

hello. I got 2 dvd players on my machine, and lately when i put a disc in the pc reboots by itself (this happens with both)...Can anyone help me pls?Thanks!1. Right-click My Computer, and then click Properties.
2. Click the Advanced tab (Vista: click Advanced system settings).
3. Under Startup and Recovery, click Settings to open the Startup and Recovery dialog box.
4. Clear the Automatically restart check box, and click OK the necessary number of times.
5. Restart your computer for the settings to take effect.

You MIGHT catch some error.Hi.Thanks, i did as you suggested, and i get this error:
STOP:0x0000008E(0x00000005,0x806F1753,0xF6c0911c,0x00000000)
Someone suggested to reinstall cd and dvd, and so i did. Also they told me to deactivate the secondary video card (it's a Sapphire 9600), and to completely clean up from Norton AV that i previously had. Still got the problem, and when machine reboots this is what pops up:
BCCode : 1000008e     BCP1 : C0000005     BCP2 : 806F1753     BCP3 : A86ED11C
BCP4 : 00000000     OSVer : 5_1_2600     SP : 3_0     Product : 768_1
What you think?Download, and install WhoCrashed: http://www.resplendence.com/download/whocrashedSetup.exe
Open it, click Analyze button.
WhoCrashed will CREATE report.
Copy, and paste it into your next reply.
Offtopic but looks like an interesting tool...

Might give a look into it  Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 22, 2009, 10:34:32 PM

Offtopic but looks like an interesting tool...

Might give a look into it 

Hello.  I hope this it the proper place to post this, if not i am sorry.

I recently purchased a new Acer 18.5" wide screen monitor.  Here is a link to all the technical info on the monitor.

http://www.acer.ca/public/page9.do;jsessionid=B6CC7137735D4909155CF41DE57A770D.public_a_us003?sp=page4&dau34.oid=42440&UserCtxParam=0&GroupCtxParam=0&dctx1=27&CountryISOCtxParam=CA&LanguageISOCtxParam=en&ctx3=30&ctx4=Canada&crc=3624556201

I also have a NVIDIA GEFORCE FX 5500 (256mb) video card. 

This is the first LCD Monitor i have ever had.  It did not come with any drivers, i even looked on the Acer website and i cant find any drivers there for it.  Windows XP detected it and installed drivers for it, i then UPDATED them online. 

The picture is nice, but it is a bit grainy.  And text is hard to read. 

Resolution on my computer is set to 1366x768, 32bit color, and refresh rate at 60Hz. 

Is there something i need to change in the settings, or update to get a clearer picture?

Or could it just be the monitor itself?

Thanks. 

Try changing the refresh rate...you may have to switch resolution to match.
Acer makes nice monitors...i think this is just a matter of fine tweaking.Thanks for the reply.  If i change the resolution it goes really blurry.  And at the current resolution that it is set at the maximum refresh rate is 60hz.  Have you tried any tweaking in nVidia's control panel ? ?
I't's a bit more fine tuned than the Windows settings you may be seeing...Yes i have been playing around with some of the nVidia settings in the NVIDIA Control Panel.  I tried the true type thing and that seemed to make thing's worse in my opinion LOL. 

I see a lot of other Acer Monitors come with drivers, could it just be this monitor is maby not the BEST?  Most monitors in newer versions of Windows don't even require drivers...
However if you are unhappy with it and it's still under warranty i would swap it out for a new one.Did you buy it on-line?

Hello
I do an experiment.
I unplug my VGA graphic cart (VGA 8X, nVidia FX 5500, 256MB) and plug a PCI graphic cart (Trident3D, 4MB).
Now my pc runs faster (about 20%).
There is no problem with power supply (AcBel 450wat real).

Let’s imagine:

The Chipset in main board (Intel) work like a 3way pipe (1.CPU, 2.RAM, 3.south Bridge)
When all way is open each them have 33.3% traffic, but when one way is close (VGA) other way have 50% traffic.(CPU 50%  ,  Ram 50%)
I think this is the reason of speedup.

What is your idea?
Thanks
Bad logic.
Both PCI and AGP run outside the 3 processes you listed...CPU, RAM, Southbridge.
Although they may independently rely on each other for resources and THROUGHPUT there should be no difference between what you have stated...
Actually it should be the opposite of what you are seeing.
The AGP card should have better system performance than any PCI card.

P.S. Although you trust it the PSU could actually be the CULPRIT here as the AGP card PROBABLY has higher demands than the PCI.

Both ,the dvd& cdrom drives wont open. In device MGR. everything shows good.When i click on eject you can hear the drive trying to open, they will open with a paper clip.Both drives are hooked up to a ide ribbon.[The drives will play also] the jumpers are set correctly.Running windows XP home.I have uninstalled them and upon re boot everything comes back to normal as far as in device mgr.I can UNDERSTAND one drive doing this but both the same time?Stranger things have happened    Try disconnecting one of the drives & see what happens, then disconnect the other & reconnect the first one. 

Alan &LT;><  I have done that ale52. Also changed ribbon, just dont make any senceHave you tried swapping an unused power connector?  If that doesn't work then both drive have probably gone sound and will need to be REPLACED.  Bummer...

Alan <><  Ill let you know,The solution was : Replaced drives & now workingThanks for posting back.  It's nice to know the outcome. 

Alan <><

I have a HP Slimline computer that has recently been having problems and thought it was the monitor but I have confirmed that it is not the monitor and is something within the computer. I think it is the onboard video that has gone bad because the monitor now says something along the lines of "Analog Power Saving Mode" on the monitor when the computer boots up. Would this be the video card, if not what do you suspect it is? I am going to buy a new graphics card for it (low profile card around $45 or so nothing powerful whatsoever), but was wondering if the power SUPPLY can handle an independent graphics card. Any suggestions on a fix for this? Any help is great.I think you asked more that one question.
Slim computers can have ventilation problems.
The HP web site should indicate what cards are recommended.
It is more of a heat issue rather that the ability of the power supply to DELIVER power. If is is a half high design, you will need to specify that the card can fit into the case. Also, newer machines now do not have the AGP slot. Instead they have PCI express or something like that. Check your documentation.Well the power supply is 160 watts and the motherboard is described as "Motherboard (system board) Hematite XL GL8E - Includes S-Video out port, PCI Express x16 graphics support, SATA 1.5 and 3.0 Gb/s support - No PCI expansion slots" so will I be able to install a PCI graphics card onto this board. I also saw a slot taken up by a TV tuner and was thinking I am going to need to take that out in order to install the graphics card which is ok with me because I do not use it anyways. If I order a low profile graphics card will my problem most likely be solved?Is this right?

Quote

    *  Motherboard manufacturer's name: Asus M2NC51-AR
    * HP/Compaq name: HematiteXL-GL8E
    *  Socket: AM2
    * Supports the following processors:
          o Athlon64 X2 with Dual Core technology
          o Athlon 64
          o Sempron
Maximum memory: 2 x 1 GB DDR2 DIMMs, 2.0 GB total (unbuffered)
    *  One PCI
    * One PCI Express x16 (for grphics cards)

    *  Integrated graphics using nVidia GeForce 6150LE
    * Use up to 256MB of PC memory (with 512MB or more total PC memory)
    * Supports PCI Express x16 graphics cards

I forgot..This is what a pop up window says after the PC restart:

BCCODE : 1000008e     BCP1 : C0000005     BCP2 : 806F1753     BCP3 : A868F11C
BCP4 : 00000000     OSVer : 5_1_2600     SP : 3_0     Product : 768_1Please post this in your ORIGINAL thread.

I need help just with understanding 2. types of Ports

Can a Femal DB 25 Pin Port also come in a MALE and still be a Serial Port?
And can a Male DB 9. Pin come in a and a Female and still be a Seriale?

Or do I have this mixed up??a DB-25 serial CONNECTOR IS male- it has 25 pins.

a PARALLEL port is a 25-hole female connector.

a DB 9-pin serial port will not be female on a PC.

Remember that peripherals designed to connect to these plugs will be reversed.


OK I gess I sould have asked this first

When we just TALK about serial Ports do they come in Female and Male or just Female???

And what is the Most coman Pin number for serial Ports??

The graphics CARD on my computer has an DVI-I dual link port out.Just purchased a new monitor that has an DVI-D port in and also came with the DVI-D single link cable.The cable will plug into the graphics card but does not have as many pins.For now I am using the analog cable between the monitor and graphics card but WOULD like to use the digital cable if it is compatable.http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=1577&p=3
Quote

the DVI-D connector features only the 24-pins necessary for purely digital operation while a DVI-I connector features both the 24 digital pins and the 5 analog pins

DVI-I is a connector that is compatible with both DVI-A (analog) and DVI-D (digital), which are not compatible. DVI-A is largely a computer format. DVI-D is the consumer variety of DVI, the one that most people consider to be the same as HDMI without the audio (slightly inaccurately); it has found its way into the computer world between certain video CARDS and displays. DVI w/HDCP is DVI-D that carries the digital copy protection that is found most commonly on HDMI; at the DAWN of DVI on consumer-video products, HDCP wasn't always included, sometimes making it incompatible with subsequent products that demanded it. DVI, component, and HDMI are all capable of resolutions higher than 720p.

Hey guys, i recently just made some huge upgrades to ones of my systems,

and was wandering is there really any performance difference in a 512mb or a 1gb gpu? << to play crysis, and high end games such as...

Because i opted out for the 1GB card, because i thought,
'well if your going to do something you may as well over do it'

But is there really any difference in performance,
i know there is in sandbox modes, because more models can be processed etc.

But for normal games like crysis, can you really make use of such a large amount of vram?



System Specs,
Q6600 Quad Core, 2.40GHZ
4GB performance ram
1GB Palit 9600gt GPU
32-bit windows vista
There will be a difference in the game that are higher tiered graphics, i.e. Crysis.  There are also alot of games like GTA4 that were sloppy ports, and these will eat up your ram like candy too. 

Most games require 512mb of vram now, so I WOULD say 1gb was a good purchase, a little future proofing if you will.The memory in the GPU is the memory that is being processed by the graphics card.
More VRAM, the more it can hold in its volatile memory, the faster it can process data.In English?I'm not going to GET into too much detail.

The VRAM is exactly like the computers RAM. It's volatile memory. In other words, the data stored in this memory can be accessed and manipulated much faster than if it were on the hard disk (Not to say it's been moved off the hard disk).
If the POWER is cut, the RAM or VRAM will be emptied.

To take advantage of this, because the graphics card needs to process all the 3D meshes, textures, graphics, ect, there must be somewhere to store all this data.
More VRAM, the more data the GPU can hold.
Because it has this extra space, any additional textures or meshes ect that may be used will also be loaded into the VRAM so the computer doesn't have to find it on the hard disk.

How's that for English?

More video RAM helps in some games, but not in others.
Generally, it won't help overall performance, but it can affect the minimum frame rate (which isn't shown in a lot of reviews, but it very important to your game experience) and it can reduce stuttering a lot.
An example I always bring out is my system in Crysis - it can handle the game on all high settings, but every few minutes I get a pause as the VRAM fills up and it loads new items into the VRAM.  Only lasts a second or two, but it can really ruin the game.  Reducing one setting by one notch eliminates this entirely, as 512MB is enough for thoose settings. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on January 21, 2009, 02:22:18 AM

The memory in the GPU is the memory that is being processed by the graphics card.
More VRAM, the more it can hold in its volatile memory, the faster it can process data.

Ah yes, speed matters!

Why buy a car if it can't go fast?

Hi:

I have an Asus PQ5 Deluxe whose on board SOUND isnt operational (bad IC, poor drivers? lol who knows) So I installed a X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro sound card. Card WORKS perfectly but my question is.. can i use the MB's digital COAXIAL output for 5.1 sound into a receiver? When USING a separate pci sound card, instead of on board, is there output the coax output from the X-Fi PCI soundcard? I want to hook up the output to a Yamaha receiver for 5.1 surround. Thanks in advance

Okay

Those in the SBCC will know I got my new Motherboard and stuff yesterday

Anywho, at first the board 's BIOS said "Unrecognized CPU, a BIOS Update may be neccessary to unlock its full power"

Then a few lines later:
"CPU over temp error"

I looked in BIOS and I went *censored*!!! 100 Degrees Celcius as soon as I start up...
Anyways I quickly removed the heatsink/fan and rested a finger on the side of the CPU...cool to the touch...*censored* is going on!?!?

Anyway after 4-5 Heatsink / fan reseats I decided stuff it it MUST be OK and it needs the BIOS update.
So I install windows XP and run the ASUS Probe II I got with the Mobo CD....suprise suprise 100 Degrees again...

Updated the BIOS using ASUS update from file (I got the newest one myself)

And now it says 39 Degrees :S

But the odd thing is....that never ever changes.

if I stress test it using the method I saw on the forums a while ago with the CALCULATOR...it never budges from 39!?
Speedfan reports CPU at 39, and core 0 at 39, core 1 at 38 :S

So...what I'm asking is..how accurate can this be?

I have seen other users with the newer C2D Cpu's floating at 50 degrees at idle, and people saying this its OK

but how can I be SURE that it isn't just giving a false reading?I also have an asus motherboard and core 2 duo cpu and in the bios i was reading 80+ celcius so i updated it and was still reading high TEMPS but i had someone take a look at it and he PUT everest on my pc and it showed the temps at a much lower range around 40 celcius.
I would get everest or ANOTHER type of freeware to check your temps.
Quote

Speedfan reports CPU at 39, and core 0 at 39, core 1 at 38 :S

I am planning on overclocking my cpu but since I'm new at overclocking i want to know what is the best WAY to go about overclocking my cpu?
Is there any PROGRAMS i should use to do it with or is there anything speacial i should know?

My SPECS are off to the left by my PROFILE info.

Hi there. I have an XP computer with SP3 INSTALLED. But I think I was having this problem before SP3. I've got several Usb 2.0 ports and they are 2.0, LABELLED as such on the case and also in device manager "standard enhanced PCI to USB host controller" - means it is 2.0 right? However if I plug something into the port it pops up with the message "this device can perform faster.."

Any ideas? I've seen a couple of things about re-installing the drivers would they be on the win xp cd?

thanks in advanceThe drivers will be stores in the driver cache in the system folders, so don't worry about the XP CD.

The drivers may simply need a refresh, mine have done the same a few times 

Unplug all USB devices apart from Mouse and Keyboard, Otherwise you cannot do anything obviously  in which case you will want a PS/2 mouse and keyboard handy, as this requires uninstalling the USB drivers.

Simply push the start button and click Run.

type in devmgmt.msc

Once the device manager opens, at the bottom will be your USB controllers.

Uninstall them from top to bottom, by right clicking th items and SELECTING uninstall, you will get an error, but this is nothing to worry about, click ok for all of them.

Once all USB related drivers have been removed, reboot your machine and USB drivers will automatically reinstall, and then try your USB devices again.Check the bios setting may be set to legacy. or usb 2 function may be disabled. QUOTE from: Kurtiskain on JANUARY 19, 2009, 02:31:22 PM

The drivers will be stores in the driver cache in the system folders, so don't worry about the XP CD.....

my cd adn dvd rom isnt working.

if i go to 'my computer' the icons for the cd rom and dvd drives for me to click on.

if i open device MANAGER and check properties it says this--

for my cd drive (LG CD-RW CED8080B):
Windows successfully loaded the device driver for this hardware but cannot find the hardware device. (CODE 41)


and for my DVD drive (SAMSUNG DVD-ROM SD-608):Windows cannot START this hardware device because its configuration information (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. (Code 19)


for the cd drive i can understand that perhaps something got disconnected its jus i never got around to opening up my comp to check but its too much of a coincidence that my dvd rom is messed as well at the same time, im suspecting some sort of virus or something cuz i think i got one a while back.  

help would be greatly appreciated.

above EDITED:

my cd adn dvd rom isnt working.

if i go to 'my computer' the icons for the cd rom and dvd drives for me to click on DO NIT SHOW UP.

if i open device manager and check properties it says this--

for my cd drive (LG CD-RW CED8080B):
Windows successfully loaded the device driver for this hardware but cannot find the hardware device. (Code 41)


and for my DVD drive (SAMSUNG DVD-ROM SD-608) :
Windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration information (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. (Code 19)


for the cd drive i can understand that perhaps something got disconnected its jus i never got around to opening up my comp to check but its too much of a coincidence that my dvd rom is messed as well at the same time, im suspecting some sort of virus or something cuz i think i got one a while back.  

help would be greatly appreciated.
Uninstall drivers and reboot.

Are the devices properly connected? Are they detected in the BIOS?how do i check the BIOS?

ill try opening my comp to see if they are CONNECT properly but ive never disconnected anything from this computer before -- but i did open it once to install a ethernet cardHow to enter the BIOS or CMOS setup.

Did this problem start recently? What have you done in order to encounter this problem?

Quote

A registry problem was detected.

This can occur when more than one service is defined for a device, if there is a failure opening the service subkey, or if the driver name cannot be obtained from the service subkey. Try these options:

On the General Properties tab of the device, click Troubleshoot to start the troubleshooting wizard.

Click Uninstall, and then click Scan for hardware changes to load a usable driver.

Restart the computer in Safe Mode, and then select Last Known Good Configuration,which rolls back to the most recent successful registry configuration.

As a last resort, you can EDIT the registry directly. For more information, see the Registry Reference in the Microsoft Windows 2000 Server Resource Kit at http://www.microsoft.com/reskit.

three quarters down on this website >http://aumha.org/regfiles.htm   is a patch that may sort it out called cdgone?

Hi, first post so bear with me if I do something wrong.  I just put together a sytem using an  MSI K9N6PGM2-V M/B

  The Chipset is GeForce 6100/nForce 430 chipset ( I think it's actually 6150se ) My question is about the Shared Video memory.  I have 2 GB ram installed and had the BIOS UMA setting at 128 mb.  In looking at the ADAPTER info It showed 256 mb memory.  If I increase the BIOS setting to 256 mb I then see 512 for the Adapter.

What would be the best setting.? Does the chipset have ANY of it's own memory for video or does it depend entirely on borrowed system RAM?  Does increasing shared meory help or is there a point where it's overkill?

Another thing is (sorry if this sounds dumb ) exactly what chipset is this? I mean it's also called MCP61  Is this Gforce or Nforce? Or is the Nforce 430 referring to the Video?

Thanks for any COMMENTS or helpAs for the shared memory- it sounds like your chipset has some VRAM to itself- but it's hard to say, since it appears to double what you give it. I suggest sticking with 256 for the adapter. If you run a program that WANTS more video memory, you can always up it for that program; OTHERWISE the RAM will sit unused... and we wouldn't want that!


"GeForce" is the brand name of Nvidia's line of Graphics. "NForce" is their motherboard chipset- your integrated video is a "GeForce" and your chipset is NForce.

Well that helps understanding the Chip Set as far as Gforce and Nforce.  Still, the MSI site for this Board calls the Chipset: NVIDIA® MCP61 (P/S/V)  and  Tiger Direct specs show: NVIDIA GeForce 6100/nForce 430

CPUZ also shows it as MCP61.  Also, I was searching the Nvidia site for drivers and I think I ended up with Gforce 6150se.    I will DIG a little deeper.............

Thanks

My old computer was an Acer BRAND and the motherboard I believe crapped out on me so I RECENTLY bought a new HP Pavillion desktop and installed my acer hard drive onto the hp and I was able to see my drives. My problem is that my old files on the drive will not work anymore when I try to use them. I have a bunch of pictures, music and video files that some I cannot replace and I was able to get by the security permissions for the files but when I try to view the pictures I am told that I don't have permission to access the FILE location and when I try to view a video or listen to a song the windows media player it tells me the file cannot be accessed and that it may be in use. I am using the Vista Premium Os that came with the computer. I have searched for solutions and have come up empty. My last resort is to get my acer computer back operational with a new motherboard and move the files to a external drive and see if I can transport them to my new computer before installing the old hard drive. The acer was originally a vista os but I had it removed for xp and I am unsure if that is what the problem is that I have a hard drive that used xp and still has it in its memory and it cant CONVERT them. I need any help I can getHow to Take OWNERSHIP of Files

This is a question I've actually had for a while, and can't seem to find a good answer through google searching.

I understand that a 32-bit OS will only handle 4gb (more accurately 3.2 - 3.4) of RAM, and that a 64-bit OS will handle, well, more.  My question is this: If you have 4gb of RAM on a 32 bit OS, and your GRAPHICS card has 1gb, or any amount for that matter, will the OS be ABLE to utilize the RAM on the graphics card?

I also understand there is a significant difference between RAM and VRAM but does the CPU handle both the RAM and VRAM or does the GPU handle the graphics card's RAM(VRAM), therefore relieveing it of a 32-bit os's limitations.

I hope this wasn't to confusing, but if need be I don't mind having to rethink and rephrase this question.

Thanks for the help.VRAM is handled by the Graphics card think of it like a little PC inside your PC that takes raw data from the computer and converts it to something more readable. (no one correct me on this cos I know its not quite as simple as that)

If you had a 32-bit (x86) sytem then your MACHINE would register:
3326Mb RAM
1024Mb VRAM

If you had a 64-bit (x64) then you would get the lot:
4032Mb RAM
1024Mb VRAM

Apperently though 64-bit computing is usless for gaming.Thanks for the help (and I understood your computer inside a computer comparison perfectly).

I've been wondering how that all WORKED out, thanks for clearing it up.

Hi,
This is my first time posting on a forum for computers and yesterday was my first day building my own computer, so I am sorry for my lack of knowledge in certain areas. But here is my problem, my computer turned on the first time and seemed to be working fine, all fans were running and images appeared on my monitor. After about a minute it then just shut off. I then UNPLUGGED the power supply and rechecked all of my connections. When I turned it on again it ran for a longer period of time allowing me to start installing my OS. After copying the files and the installing of the program began, it shut down again. After that I could not get it to run past trying to do the install again. At this point I shut everything down, removed the memory and the video card and all of my power connections and cables. After reinstalling everything, I continued to have the same result. It would sometimes let me sit in BIOS without shutting off, but sometimes it would continue to do so. While in BIOS one time, I checked in the "PC Health" section and noticed that I was getting alarmingly high CPU temp. readings of 95-105c. So I immediately shut everything down and removed my cpu heatsink and fan to see if it was seated properly and that it was making contact with the cpu. I saw that the thermal grease had melted and SPREAD on both the cpu and heatsink, so I think it should have been making contact. I REINSTALLED it and tried again to only have the same result. After giving up for the night, I just started up the system again for the first time today and checked the temps right away, the system itself sits at about 30c, but the cpu started at about 60c and immediately began to rise to the 90s while sitting idle in BIOS. I don't know what to do anymore and would really appreciate any help or guidance anyone could give.

Here is my system:
Intel q6600 GO w/ stock heatsink and fan
Gigabyte ep45-ud3r motherboard
bfg nvidia 8800gts vid
2x2gb crucial ballistix ddr2 800 mem
750w coolermaster psu
400gb 7200rpm sata Hitachi hard drive

Thank you for your time and help,
RobbThis may sound stupid, and I assume you've checked this, but did you make sure the CPU fan was getting power?  It sounds like the fan attatched to the heatsink isn't doing it's job.  There should be a little wire from the fan connecting to your motherboard.I have had a similar problem to yours in the past with an intel dual core processor because my stock intel heatsink and fan weren't keeping my cpu cool so i ordered a new aftermarket one from www.newegg.com


I to would suggest a better heatsink and fan!!The heatsink MBoard connectors on that model CPU can be quite tricky to seat properly...i know because i built 2 of these.
Have the slot's in the twist pins perpindicular to the heatsink...  )- is the best diagram i can come up with. They then rotate 90 degrees clockwise to seat with a bit of downward PRESSURE on top of the fan assembly.
Do them opposite each other...in other words Top Left first them Bootom Right...then Top Right and finally Bottom Left.
If you have the right cpu? The first think i would do is make sure the heat sink is properly installed like Patio explained in his post,check the fan on the heat sink and make sure it is running constant.Sounds like you applied way to much paste.Artic silver # 5

My Dell COMPUTER CD starts to spin when you put in a CD but then reads that there is no disk present.  I have tried many disks; these are purchased programs, not ones I burned.  I WENT to device manager and checked the CD drive and it says the CD device is working properly.  The device shows up in My Computer.  Any thoughts?Try one of these:
1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
2. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" SIGN NEXT to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see TWO items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

If the above won't help, most likely, you need new drive.

Ok, so I recently decided that I wanted to slowly upgrade my computer instead of buying another computer, eventually turning the computer into a custom built model.

I currently own a dell Dimension 4700

Specs:

Dimension 4700 Series,Intel Pentium 4 Processor 520, 2.8 GHz

512 MB DDR2 SDRAM at 400MHz

128MB PCI Express x16  (DVI/VGA/TV-out) ATI Radeon

40GB Serial ATA Hard Drive    (7200RPM)

Intel Pro 100M Integrated     PCI NIC Card

I'm planning on upgrading my RAM, Video Card, and Processor. Before I start buying products however, I need to know what types of hardware I can buy that will be compatible with my motherboard. I've been looking on newegg.com to search for hardware to try finding price estimates. Here are the products that I found so far.

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145184

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103272


Video: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121274

I'm also planning on buying a new computer case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144197


Now one thing I've heard is dell makes their computers specifically so you can't just buy any parts for it to work. Another thing I've heard is if you have an Intel processor running than you have to buy a new motherboard to get AMD processor. I'm just curious to whether or not the parts I've found are compadible with my computer or if I will need to buy a new motherboard to work these pieces.

I'm mainly buying these upgrades for gaming. I am pushing for more speed and visual POWER but I'm tight on cash so I'm getting cheaper products but powerful enough to get it up to date.

Also if anyone knows of a site with better pc hardware deals than newegg I'd be happy to hear them as well. Hope you guys can help, thanks

~~hawk_767~~Dell's are generally known for their diffuclty in upgrading but I'll try to clear a few things up for you.

Intel CPU's and AMD CPU's use different sockets, and you would need a new motherboard to use an AMD processor.  You would likely need to upgrade your motherboard to upgrade your ram as well.  Different motherboards accept different types or ram, you have ddr2 but there are several different kind of ddr2.  The main thing you need to know about ram is the number of pins, for newer motherboards 240 pin ddr2 is generally the standard.

To play most newer games you will probably need a new hard drive as well because many games require ~7gbs of hard drive space. You always want to have 10-15% of your total hard drive space open so it can move files efficiently.  With an operating system, and more than a few games installed you may be pushing it.

As far as the video card choice goes, what kind of games do you intend to be playing?  A few titles would give US a general idea of the power you'll be needing.

I hate to be the BEARER of bad news, but you may want to just look into a whole new pc.  Sometimes it just isn't WORTH it to upgrade an old rig, and you'll end up costing yourself more than if you would've just built one that will last a bit.http://www.crucial.com/

Will tell you what sort of RAM your motherboard will take and possibly the graphics expansion slots.

Amazingly though it seems to think that my PC is currently running with no RAM installed and that I should buy some immediately... I wonder how I went on the internet downloaded the program and used it?

Quote from: Crucial

According to our scan, your system already has the maximum amount of MEMORY installed.

I NEED a monitor and I want to get the most bang for my buck. My buget is around $350.

What do you think of this monitor?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009125

The return policy is 8 dead pixles. Is that good?I would  expect most people on this forum to recommend going into a shop and actually see the monitor in action, then see if you can find that model cheaper elsewhere i.e. online.

That monitors specs do look good though. Personally I can't help you with the price though, see in the UK any American merchandise has an amazing price.I don't know what you are using it for but, I have a HP w2207h and I LOVE the CHOICE I made. It's a 22" 5 mil response, it's bright, crisp, the picture is still really good from the sides, it also has a feature that you can physically rotate the screen 90 degrees from landscape to portrait mode and it will automatically switch back and forth as you turn the screen. It also tilts well and moves up and down about 5 inches. It also has a HDMI input as well. I paid $250.00+tax. The 24" was about $100.00 more.
The only drawback which for me is minor is that the base is a little to big other than that it's great!24" is a very good size.  A 22" if not 1920x1080 wont look as sharp becuase most 22" moniters have the same res as a 20".  That moniter you POSTED looks really good.I've seen acer monitors in person (just not this particular model) and in general they look really nice.I have a acer 24" but its an old model (p244w).  Very nice monitor. he is supposed to be hugging that moniter which is supposed to be an acer.

I just found a List of things to look at when getting a HARD Drive and I need HELP with TWO of them?

When you look at the Data Tranfer Rate I know this is the Speed of the Data that it can Transfer.
And what I saw says it will be listed as RPM

RPM is not for Data Transfer Rate this is just how fast the Platter Spins RIGHT???
I saw it hee under BUYING TIPS FOR BUYING A HARD DRIVE.You want to look at the data transfer rate,  100/133/150MBps.  HARDDRIVE manufacturer should have the specs for you. RPM just tells you how fast the disk is spinning, although the faster the RPM the faster the data transfer rate normally.The bargain HDDs have 5400 RPM and data rate of 100mbps. For just general STORAGE they are good. Be also interested in the warranty. In some commercial applications they prefer the lower cost drives if they are more reliable.

Also , think about the type of drive. The SATA is a higher performance overall. The IDE drives are are starting to lose their place as the best value for your dollar.

Hey Guys, I have another question for you:

I have a dell dimension 3000. A budget system from 2005. For CHRISTMAS, I got a few upgrades for it, and these are its NEW specs:


Pentium 4 2.8 ghz solo processor (original/stock)
2 Gigs of OCZ PC3200 Ram (High Performance/Gaming)
150 GB Western Digital ATA HDD (not new)
550 watt corsair PSU (New)
nVidea Geforce 6200 256mb PCI graphic card (New)
Scythe Ninja Mini Heatsink

I just recently bought a 22" widescreen LCD. As I was getting ready to install the gfx card, I noticed it supported dual vga or vga + DVI-I display. so, I was thinking about using my old 15" with my 22"

-But, if its going to slow down my computer, I don't want to set up a dual display unless 1. The slowdown isn't too bad. and 2. I'm able to switch back to single display (the 22") when I'm doing SOMETHING that requires all of my systems resources.

So, I guess what I'm asking is, Will it slow down my computer?

I need to PURCHES some cables for my motherboard. For audio the manual states "This header supports S/PDIF in and can connect to an audio device that supports audio out via an OPTIONAL S/PDIF cable. Contact your local dealer for purchase"

Is this how I get digital out from my onbaord audio. I've tried coaxile and optial cable which PLAYS sound in my speakers but the speakers say that they are not receiving digital INPUT.

What cable do I need and where can I get it?

2. I need high quality Sata cables for my Hard drive and Blue Ray DVD drive. Where can I get them and should they be 1.5 speed or 3.0 speed?

Thankscheck in you sound manaagment options it may be a reversable input output spidf port. ive got one.There are LOTS of places to buy cables.
Here is one:
http://www.cablestogo.com/
another:
http://www.computercablestore.com/

I have a eMachine laptop, model # W340UA or N-10.
The screen has darkened so much that it is almost impossible to see the screen, I was told the problem was the backlight and that it had went bad, which meant I had to GET a new computer, the computer is just over a year old and the warrenty of course had ran out.

What I want to know, is can I hook a regular desktop MONITOR to my laptop and continue to use the lap top, because the screen is the only thing that is not working. Can I do this??

I am also looking to buy a power supply for the same laptop as the one I have/had, the wiring broke inside and eventually caused the chord to seperate and give the computer no power, where can I get another one of these at the cheapest price!

please respond here!!!Most laptops have a VGA connector for a monitor.  I am not familiar with yours though.

Exactly where is the wire broken?  You can buy backlights and lcd inverters pretty cheap if you can put them in yourself. I found them on ebay for under 20 dollars. Here is a guy selling them as well, they are more than on ebay but checkit out.

http://www.midwestlaptopparts.com/

not sure if they have emachine parts but give them a try.


Randythe wiring in the power supply broke right near the connector to the computer. I was told if it were a backlight issue the computer would have to be replaced. It was and is a good computer minus the screen issue. Id really like to have the issue fixed and keep the computer, if I have to buy a monitor and use it through that I will, I just really need to get the issue fixed YA know, any help is greatly appreciated.Here is a site with some help for you maybe. I can not see why the lcd invertor or backlight can't be fixed if you are willing to do it yourself. I had a geeksquad guy tell me that it would cost more to rep;ace the inverter than the computer was worth. I bought a inverter for 10 dollars plus shipping.

http://repair4laptop.org/disassembly_emachines.html



Randy Quote from: racerrandy on January 08, 2009, 09:47:24 PM

I had a geeksquad guy tell me that it would cost more to rep;ace the inverter than the computer was worth. I bought a inverter for 10 dollars plus shipping.

http://repair4laptop.org/disassembly_emachines.html



Randy

Hello technically gifted people-

I have a computer with win xp that is telling me SMART failure PREDICTED on my MASTER hard drive. This hard drive has my system on it.

I have recently purchased a new IDE hard drive exactly as the one in the computer now (WD800JB).

The problem is- I've never done this before! I need to clone the old hard drive to the new one and install it.

Does anyone know of a good program for cloning or a web page i can visit and learn from? Or is it simple enough maybe someone could explain how?

Thanks everyone, much appreciated.
~JYou could try SEARCHING for it on google or wiki..

Try this one:
http://www.thefreecountry.com/utilities/backupandimage.shtmlGoogle Free Clone Software and you come up with a lot.
Here is one that is informative.
http://www.freedownloadmanager.org/downloads/clone_software_software/

I has a list of some of the ones they say are good.the western Digital Drive you purchased should have come with "Data Lifeguard Tools" software.


first, you need to install the new drive while keeping your old one intact.

first, you would need to remove the case

if your drive is SATA, find a free plug and pop it in. If it's IDE, you'll need to decide how it must be jumpered.

if the other device is jumpered for Master, set the new drive to slave. if it's set to slave, set it to master.
If it's set for CS (Cable Select) set the new drive for cable select.

Once all is connected, start the machine. If your case opens via the removal of it's sides, I recommend leaving them off for this short period; you'll need to get in there soon.

Your CURRENT operating system should boot as usual. Now install the data lifeguard tools from the CD.

when you run the software, it should automatically find the new drive and ask you wether you want to set it up.

Using the software's "drive clone" feature should be a breeze. Once you've cloned your system drive to the new drive, power down the machine, remove the old drive, and install your new drive in it's place (remember to change the jumper if necessary).

power back up, and you should now be running with the new drive!

HOPE this helps you out Thank you very much for your replies.

The only problem is the drive i purchased from newegg.com did not come with any kind of cloning software, just the drive. That's why i was curious what people around here use for cloning.

Maybe I could find this software on their website.... Quote from: five40josh on January 16, 2009, 12:36:47 PM

Maybe I could find this software on their website....

Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 16, 2009, 01:35:02 AM

*yawns*

lol

I am glad to see were all getting along.  It's hard not to salivate on a porsche 911 when you drive a focus, Track at one point you had me feeling like the kid in high school wearing a cheap pair of sneakers, while the other kids had on their Air Jordan's.  Sorry for misinterpreting your post.

What does this have to do with Overclocking?

Always something called a Private Message.

i had this problem before-
i hadn't changed any spec though.
it was EITHER a motherboard or CPU (yes i mean processor) problem
i never GOT round to checking. (sorry about that)
i'll be TESTING it all in a week or so- the motherboard is still worth quite alot Quote from: scrolljoe on January 16, 2009, 11:17:48 AM

Disconnect the monitor's data CORD from the mobo and plug the power
cord to wall outlet . TURN on the monitor and if you see a raster then
it's good. Most monitors will do this.

First off, as much system info as I can think of: I am running a gateway desktop with pentium 4 2 ghz processor, 40gb quantum fireball internal hdd, 8gb internal western digital hdd, 160gb simpletech external usb hdd, windows XPpro version 2002.
The story goes like this: I was running my computer just fine (or as fine as a pc running windows can ever be (next time I'm getting a mac)) about two weeks ago without the 8gb or 160gb drives, except that I was constantly running out of space (I'm sorry, I'm a download *censored*. bitlord is heaven). So I had several old, unused computers lying around, and I decided to start adding spare parts to my main desktop. I added the 8gb, and I removed the cd drives, which I had been having a lot of difficulty with for as long as I'd owned them, and replaced them with a phillips cdrw800 series, and an hp cd-writer plus 8100i. Now my system absolutely does not recognize either drive. They do not appear on My Computer, nor in the DEVICE Manager, and after running a search for uninstalled hardware, windows recommended I uninstall a list of drivers, audio MANAGEMENT, and other such cd-drive related software, saying the hardware was no longer installed. I have the driver and firmware update for the phillips, but I am missing the driver for the hp. This shouldn't matter unless XP's generic drivers are incpompatible. I can RULE out hardware failure, I have tested them on other computers. I know a decent bit about computers, and generally what I don't know I can figure out, but this one has me completely stumped. :-? I'll KEEP trying, but any input or assistance would be wildy appreciated. Thank you for any and all future help, and thanks just for trying. And just generally thanks for even reading. If I had money I'd donate it to this site, but alas I find myself rather morbidly broke. But I suppose thats a subject for another forum. I guess I never realized how much I enjoy emoticons. You do not need drivers beyond what Windows offers, but you will eventually need software for burning activities, etc.

If the drives are not recognized in the BIOS, then Windows cannot recognize them ever. Are they jumpered correctly (One Master-One Slave) ?

Let us know how these and the hard drives are all jumpered and on which IDE channel each resides.

No harm, no foul. I hope you get a solution to your problem.This was a custom computer, I choose the PARTS, they assemble. Unlucky for me, they are based in California, I'm in Connecticut....Alright, I sent an email to the seller, HOPEFULLY they can LEND some usefull advice, OR repair it for me.Be sure and let us know. We are keen to hear about solutions. No response....I sent a second one just now.Which seller is this? Do they have a WEB site?Cyberpowersystem.com

My friend had recomended them, so I gave them a shot...

I recently had to reinstall everything in my computer due to a virus. I am trying to re-install my scanner software and everything seems to be OK except when booting up I keep getting the message that it has "failed". I have installed this before and had no problem until now. Is my installation disc possibly the problem? If so how can I get a replacement or download installation instructions? My scanner is an IBM Idea Scan 2000. What operating system is this? How old is the scanner? Did it use to run on an older version of WINDOWS which you have since upgraded?My operating system is Windows 98. I have never used any other.Try "Add new HARDWARE" in control panel and see if windows detects the scanner. If necessary (windows does not find a driver), check "have disk" and point windows to so it can LOCATE the driver.I followed your instructions but STILL doesn't work. Could the disc be faulty? Is there some way I can obtain another disc or download installation instructions?Here is a link where you MAY be able to find something to help:

http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/product.do?brandind=19&template=%2Fproductselection%2Flandingpages%2FdownloadsDriversLandingPage.vm&validate=true

How big is your PSU?ok, thanks im doing that now, and no my name isnt julie..or at least i dont THINK it is.i really dont know, ive never taken off the top of my pc i dont even know how.I am going now, someone will guide you further, I hope. ok thanks alot i know a lil more about my computer now...anyone else pleaaase help meeee.Download and run Belarc Advisor (free) at www.belarc.com and post the file or it's contents here.Operating System System Model
Windows XP Professional Service Pack 1 (build 2600) Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a Main Circuit BOARD b
1.65 gigahertz AMD Athlon XP
128 kilobyte primary memory cache
256 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: KM266-8235
Bus Clock: 150 megahertz
BIOS: Phoenix Technologies, LTD 6.00 PG 10/08/2002
Drives Memory Modules c,d
20.48 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
5.68 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

PLEXTOR CD-R PX-W2410A [CD-ROM drive]
3.5" format removeable media [Floppy drive]

Maxtor 2B020H1 [Hard drive] (20.49 GB) -- drive 0, s/n B1H9W0KE, rev WAH21PB0, SMART Status: Healthy 256 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'A0' has 256 MB
Slot 'A1' is Empty
Local Drive Volumes

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 20.48 GB 5.68 GB free

Network Drives
None detected
Users (mouse over user name for details) Printers
local user accounts last logon
starrs crap 6/20/2006 11:48:18 PM (admin)
User 1/24/2006 1:01:00 AM
local system accounts
Administrator never (admin)
Guest 1/8/2004 7:31:13 PM
HelpAssistant never
SUPPORT_388945a0 never


Marks a disabled account; Marks a locked account None detected
Controllers Display
Standard floppy disk controller
Primary IDE Channel [Controller]
Secondary IDE Channel [Controller]
VIA Bus Master IDE Controller RADEON 9000 SERIES [Display adapter]
RADEON 9000 SERIES - Secondary [Display adapter]
Default Monitor
Bus Adapters Multimedia
Standard Enhanced PCI to USB Host Controller
VIA Rev 5 or later USB Universal Host Controller (3x) MPU-401 Compatible MIDI Device
Standard Game Port
VIA AC'97 Enhanced Audio Controller (WDM)
Communications Other Devices
Communications cable between two computers [Modem]
SupraMAX 56i [Modem]




im pretty sure im going to return the radeon, i dont think itll fit in my computer, but now im just worried about the hard drive and what else i need to upgrade to be able to get a 512mb video card.i need any advice i can get. and my name is starr..not julie. umm...queenbunnywitch..... LOL ...... Fed's referance to "Julie" was a bit of humor.
His Ex wifes name was Julie ....... LOL .....

BTW.......Did you get the vid card issue all sorted out ?

dl65 i know i have to get my motherboard upgraded..somehow before i can get that video card but im still worried about the hard drive and if itll workheeelpAn EIDE HDD will work on almost any mother Board Made since 1990,

I WOULD not WORRY about that woohooo...then im done...thanks everyone!!!!!!!

OK friend of mine has a Toshiba Laptop winXp sp2
The PROBLEM is he has install a printer and when he TRY to PRINT it keep prompting him to save the files.
Why?
I wonder if he set the printer up, and instead of choosing LPT1 or USB as the output port, he chose "file" instead? Reinstallation of the drivers (with the printer CONNECTED) could fix this. Other fixes are a bit more complicated to explain.Ok so just reinstalling the printer would fix it
OK thanks
I will REPLY back
I think i wont see him in next 10 days

Hello all! I am new and I need help. My home PC is a GATEWAY - approx. 6 yrs old. Original OS was Windows 98/SE, I upgraded to XP Home when it came out. I also had to get a new (llarger) memory card (to make sure Xp would run) and over the years I have installed a CD burner and replaced my original CD drive. (I am fearless in that case!) My new problem is that there is a lot of clicking upon start up and I get the dreaded black screen with "operating system not found." HDD is fried, I guess. I am looking at a drive by Seagate (anyone familiar with the company and product?) with a capacity WAY larger than what I have - I think it was 250 GB. Am I going to need to upgrade anything ELSE in order to install and use something that big? Should I look smaller? Hubby does home office work, my daughter plays games and I pay the bills and do some surfing - no huge usage.
Any help for the clueless one would be greatly appreciated. If your computer is a bout 6 years old , i wont have SATA so make sure your Getting an IDE drive,

Theres a Chance your mobo wont be able to see the entire disk , and you might have to to limit the capacity , if thats the case a smaller drive would make more sense

So look up the mother board Specs on the Internet and see what size drive it can take.

just google the Model Number.Yes, I agree a smaller drive probably would be a better choice, due to likely limitations of the older motherboard you're working with. I suggest this one: Western Digital Caviar SE WD800JB 80GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache IDE Ultra ATA100 Hard Drive - OEM. I have two of these. You can't go wrong with it. Over 1,000 reviews on the site and very positive overall. And, 80Gig should be plenty for your needs.

I'm not trying to steer you away from Seagate. It's a fine brand. They have a FIVE year warranty on some of their drives. Here's one: Seagate BARRACUDA 7200.9 ST3802110A 80GB 7200 RPM 2MB Cache IDE Ultra ATA100 Hard Drive - OEM. The only significance difference I see between these two drives, beside warranty, is that the WD has 8MB cache and the Seagate has 2MB cache. The higher amount of cache gives a slight PERFORMANCE advantage. Newegg.com probably sells the corresponding Seagate with 8MB cache; I just did not search for it.

Thank you both, panboy and soybean:
I think I should stick around the 80GB mark - and thanks for the tip about the mobo - I wouldn't have given it a thought until I had the case open and guts strewn around the room! :-?
I'll check out those you mentioned - if I need more help, I'll be back!
Thanks again.Just thought of something. The two links I provided were for OEM drives. That means you only receive the drive, no retail box, no printed instructions, etc. So, buy the Retail package of the same drive. That way, you recieve in the full retail box, with installation instructions, software tools, etc. There will a slight price difference, but I think it's well worth the extra cost.

I work for a small home based business. We use Peachtree accounting for payroll and the checking account. I boss is worried that people will be able to get our checking account information since it is on the same computer that we access the internet with. He wants me to try to put the Peachtree on an external HARD drive so it can be removed when I am on the internet. Any suggestions? Is this a good or bad idea? If it's not a very smart thing what suggestions are out there?

ThanksThat is a good question, and business-sensitive data particularly needs to be protected. The best protection would be to have the data on a single PC that is not connected to any network (INCLUDING the internet). Alternatively, you could store the data on an encrypted USB pen drive - you would be able to remove that when surfing, for ADDED security.

BUT.

Provided you take suitable precautions when browsing (up to date, reputable virus-checker, anti-spyware software, correctly configured firewall and file and printer sharing turned off unless you really need it) you don't really need to worry so much about this. NO security is perfect (someone could after all steal the computer/external hard drive); you just do the best you can.If running Windows XP on a hard drive formatted NTFS, I guess you could enable encryption on the directory in which Peachtree is installed. I can't explain details of doing this; I really don't know much about this option on an NTFS system. Just a THOUGHT; might be worth GETTING more info.

Needless to say, using a strong password on Peachtree is probably a good idea. Other than that, I can't add anything to robpomeroy's good advice.

I would recommend doing your Peachtree backups to an external hard drive.

By the way, here's a Peachtree forum you might find helpful: http://www.peachtreeusers.com/.forums/
An afterthought: I'm familiar with Peachtree. I have the 2003 version installed on my computer. If you open Peachtree's Help and enter data path in the search box, you should find some infomation about where Peachtree stores data files. I believe you could specify a data path, meaning the location where your actual Peachtree accounting data is stored, pointing to an external drive. In other words, your program files would be installed on your internal hard drive but the data files created by using the program for your accounting would be stored on another partition, internal hard drive, or an external drive.

If you can't start in safe mode with this HD & your old HD works OK then either your current HD is faulty, which I doubt, or your windows files have been corrupted.
There is software AVAILABLE to test your HD with and if it is OK then a clean install or a repair with an Emergency Repair Disk will fix it.mabey the boot SECTOR of his hard drive is screwed... you have two hard drives right? PUT your old hard drive in the computer as a master, and put the one that wont boot as a slave... not that i agree with porn of any kind, but, to each is own...

Hi.
I have a dell dimension 2400, celeron, 2.40 ghz, 2.39 ghz, 512 mb of ram, xp (I hope that is enough info on the computer?)
RECENTLY, I have had alot of webpages opening up and running adaware as well as norton havent seemed to help. I don't know if it is related to my problem but thought I would at least note it.
The problem is that today, I tried to burn a data disc and my e and d drives were missing. After calling dell and much INTERNET searching, I read somewhere to delete the data listed under the lowerfilter and upperfilter (in the registry, under the drives). I did that to the lowerfilter (there was no upperfilter) and the drives reappeared in my computer.
However, when I tried to burn the disc using sonic recordnow, it said that "no compatible recordable or rewritable drives could be found on my computer".
I uninstalled and reinstalled sonic but the problem still existed.
So, I tried using musicmatch to burn the disc and got the error "No drive found"

I dont know what to do next, I really need to burn this cd.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advanceWhat are you using for virus/spyware prevention? When did this start and did anything unusual precede this?Hi I use norton internet security, lavasoft adaware and occasionally yahoo anti-spy.
Nothing unusual has HAPPENED but due to the many pop unders and web pages opening up on their own, my guess is I'm infected with something that none of these prograns can detect.
You could start by downloading and running Hijack This and post the log file here. It will take several posts to get it all.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download3155.html

Gx1man, did you mean to post the hijack this log file here or on the Major Geek website?Right here.Do you have a cd burner?

Quote

Detailed Spec Sheet:
Processor: Intel Celeron 2.4 GHz processor, 400Mhz FSB (100MHzx4)

Chipset: Intel 845GV chipset
Videocard: Integrated Intel Extreme graphics

Sound: Integrated Soundmax Sound

Memory: 256MB PC-2700 DDR memory (one module)

Networking: Integrated 10/100 Ethernet

Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 40GB ATA/100 7200RPM hard drive
CDROM: Hitachi 48X CD-ROM drive
Monitor: 19" Dell brand M992 monitor (max 1600x1200 @ 75Hz, .24 Dot pitch)
Software Setup WindowsXP Home Edition

Accessories Logitech MX500 optical scroll mouse
Altec Lansing 2 speaker system
Dell PS/2 keyboard
PCI 56K modem
Microphone

my laptop computer has its keys messed up. it's not happening now because this is the family computer. but when i type the letters on the top ROW, the numbers in the row above that correspond to that letter come after the letter. all i did was press backspace (GENTLY, NOT HARD) a few TIMES to delete some wrong letters when i was typing. im not sure what to do, snd it's hard when the most commonly USED letters, esecially "e."

these are the letters, and what they look like on my computer when i type them-
q1, w2, e3, r4, u7, i8, o9, p0.

Im not sure what to do!!!!!! HELP!!!!! :-?well,

Has have the keys ever worked right? if so, how long has this been going on for?
what kind of laptop is it?
has ANYONE taken the laptop apart before this?Simply removing and refitting the keyboard may resolve this issue - but you should leave that JOB for someone who is competent to disassemble laptops.

i got the PhoenixBIOS 4.0 Release 6.0 , i would like to know where i can get the update , cause im having some problems trying to figure out how to enable acpi , i TRY to look for it on the bios menu , but theres no option for this , since i cant even find the manual for this THING minus well try to update it- :-?

please help me out , cause i dont eant to buy another motherboard Who makes the motherboard? A lot times you can get a BIOS flash from the website, but BEWARE, if the bios is not the problem...... it might be if you flash it. Not all bios flashes are necasary (? spelling?) So if you do flash, and can't revert you might have to get a new mobo anyway.

something to ponder......<<< System Summary >>>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

< System >
Host Name: BLACKHAT
User: Administrador
Domain: GRUPO_TRABAJO

< Processor >
Model: Intel® Pentium® 4 CPU 1.70GHz
Speed: 1.70GHz
Performance Rating: PR1865 (estimated)
Cores per Processor: 1 Unit(s)
Threads per Core: 1 Unit(s)
Internal Data Cache: 8kB Synchronous, Write-Thru, 4-way set, 64
byte line size
L2 On-board Cache: 256kB ECC Synchronous, ATC, 8-way set, 64
byte line size, 2 lines per sector

< Mainboard >
Bus(es): X-Bus PCI IMB USB i2c/SMBus
MP Support: 1 Processor(s)
MP APIC: Yes
System BIOS: IBM 24KT35ASP
System: IBM 830552S
Mainboard: IBM IBM
Total Memory: 254MB DDR-SDRAM

< Chipset 1 >
Model: Intel Corporation 82845G/GL/GV Brookdale Host-
Hub Interface Bridge (A1-step)
Front Side Bus Speed: 4x 100MHz (400MHz data rate)
Total Memory: 256MB DDR-SDRAM
Shared Memory: 1MB
Memory Bus Speed: 2x 133MHz (266MHz data rate)

< Video System >
Monitor/Panel: Mitsubishi Diamond Scan 17HX (FFF8705)
Adapter: Controlador Intel® Extreme Graphics
(Microsoft Corporation)

< Physical Storage Devices >
Hard Disk: HDS728080PLAT20 (77GB)
CD-ROM/DVD: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-4167B (CD 48X Rd, 48X Wr)
(DVD 6X Rd, 6X Wr)

< Logical Storage Devices >
Hard Disk (C:): 46GB (36GB, 77% Free Space) (NTFS)
Cat (D:): 30GB (3.4GB, 11% Free Space) (NTFS)
CD-ROM/DVD (E:): N/A

< Peripherals >
Serial/Parallel Port(s): 1 COM / 1 LPT
USB Controller/Hub: Controlador de host universal USB 82801DB/DBM
de Intel® - 24C2
USB Controller/Hub: Controlador de host universal USB 82801DB/DBM
de Intel® - 24C4
USB Controller/Hub: Controlador de host universal mejorado USB
82801DB/DBM de Intel® - 24CD
USB Controller/Hub: Concentrador raíz USB
USB Controller/Hub: Concentrador raíz USB
USB Controller/Hub: Concentrador raíz USB
USB Controller/Hub: Dispositivo compuesto USB
Keyboard: Dispositivo de teclado HID
Keyboard: Teclado PS/2 extendido para PC/AT (101/102
teclas)
Mouse: Mouse PS/2 de Microsoft
Human Interface: Dispositivo compatible con HID
Human Interface: Dispositivo de control del consumidor
compatible con HID
Human Interface: Dispositivo compatible con HID
Human Interface: Dispositivo de interfaz humana USB
Human Interface: Dispositivo de interfaz humana USB

< MultiMedia Device(s) >
Device: Controladora de sonido multimedia

< Printers and Faxes >
Model: Microsoft Office Document Image Writer

< Power Management >
AC Line Status: On-Line

< Operating System(s) >
Windows System: Microsoft Windows 2003 Advanced/Enterprise
Server (Win32 x86) 5.02.3790

< Network Services >
Adapter: Conexión de RED PRO/100 VE de Intel®

< Performance Tips >
Tip 2546: Large memory modules should be ECC/Parity.
Warning 103: ECC/Parity memory is recommended for servers.
Tip 2: Double-click tip or press Enter while a tip
is selected for more information about the
tip.

<<< Mainboard Information >>>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

< System >
Manufacturer: IBM
Model: 830552S
Serial Number: KCL0PVA
ID: DD945134-FD3A895A-ED6C0B97-4DEF5596

< System Chassis >
Manufacturer: IBM
Type: Desktop
Can be locked: No
Asset TAG: ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ
Boot-up State: Safe
Power State: Safe
Thermal State: Safe
Security State: External Interface Locked-out

< Mainboard >
Manufacturer: IBM
MP Support: 1 Processor(s)
MPS Version: 1.40
Model: IBM



hope this works
User is online!PROFILE CardPM

Go to the top of the page
Edit PostGo to www.ibm.com check out the support and downloads. They have a lot of updates and manuals.Here is your BIOS update from Lenovo:

http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?sitestyle=lenovo&lndocid=MIGR-42952

I'm trying to fix my grandmother's Dell Inspiron 2500 Laptop, it says Fan(s) Error when booting and then shuts down or doesn't boot up. It allows me to push F2 and enter setup, but that doesn't do anything. I took it to computer repair and they put in a new fan and CHECKED the fan sensors and still NOTHING. They told me it was a bad hard drive, and I just put in a new hard drive and it still does the same thing. Any suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED thanks!!!! :-? :-?Maybe a post in the Dell support forums for that model?

http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums?category.id=inspiron