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I just bought LG lcd MONITOR..I want to install the lcd driver..I follow the instruction from the cd for driver installation,it easy..but When I install,It didt finish,and it say cannot install this hardware..The file system cant speficied..something like that..please HELP me..and my os is windows xp sp2,video card sis661fx..It may not need a driver...try it without.It work fine without the driver but EVERY startup I will get message to install the driver..Hmm..VISIT their site and DLoad a fresh driver...the CD may be bad.

Also temporarily DISABLE your protection apps when installing...

I have a Lapto and I use it with a 400 Watt AMP and a Keyboard as well.
And I tryed Speakers as well and everything I have just keeps Wapping out my Hard Drive and they are 2 Feet away from the AMP and speakers.

This is what I need eather a 200 watt or 400 watt speaker or AMP but that is Magneticly shielded.
It must be Up Thear in WATTAGE like I say but has an RCA jack or can be used with Keyboards and Laptops things like this???What you need is a longer cord. Two feet isn't MUCH.How long should it be??Are you a dj, how much space is available?
You can get shielded PA, but it can be expensive. I would recommend no closer than 10 feet though.I do Singing Gigs and I have a Keyboard and AMPQuote from: nymph4 on April 16, 2010, 01:23:53 PM

I do Singing Gigs and I have a Keyboard and AMP

My Lexmark 73 printer has stopped working. I think cartridges were dry, but when trying to print the printer would automatically get the paper CAUGHT in it and say paper jam. I looked in there only to find nothing. Any suggestions?

When I boot comp, it comes to command screen black and white and says; secondary disk drive 0 not found, secondary disk drive 1 not found? Press F1 to continue. What does this mean? How can I fix it?

After GETTING secondary disk screen and proceeding...one of my rom drives (I have both DVD and CD) ROMs going. The CD rom is TDK from several years ago. The TDK CD drive kept making noise with light coming on then going off and noise stops, etc. Repeating every 2-3 seconds. Any ideas with that?

My email was hacked into to...but I think that was my psycho ex-girlfriend who did it. She was saying she knew this guy (or probably always knew) that was a computer hacker dude. Could he have done any of this? I'm assuming he hacked into my email for her.....yes she is extremely psycho and revengeful I'm not just exaggerating here.It's amazing how many people 'know' a hacker that will pwn you.
To be safe go here and follow the directions exactly, and post the requested logs.
Chances are it could even be an environmental issue, have you had any lightning strikes or static electric discharges recently?I will look into it. When I say all at once, it was really in a week time period. Ive had this computer for over 11 years so it could be on its LAST leg too. Except for the email THING! Just too much of a coincidence!What does pwn mean?Quote from: hehfest on April 16, 2010, 07:20:58 AM

What does pwn mean?

After the 1st hour in a half of HARD Drive flashing alot, now Barely flashing is my Power SUPPLY and it's cables that connect to motherboard going badMore information needed.
Why do you think three is a problem?
It is normal for some lights to flash.
true, but for the 1st hour and an half when I started my computer, the front light for the hard drive was flashing ALMOST nonstop, now 2+ HOURS later when it is still on, it Barely flashes at all. Is that normal? I have Western Digital SATA 500 GB Perhaps it was installing some updates or patches in the background, or it COULD have been indexing something on the drive.
Without more information we really can't give an accurate response.
If you are concerned about possible malware or viral infections then go here, follow the directions exactly and post the required logs.Scheduled scans ? ?
E=mail checking ? ?
It could be a hundred different apps running in the background and so far you haven't given us much to go on...

hi all,
I am unable to hear the sound from my speakers.
When they r connected 2 an IPOD/Mp3 player,they work well but when connected to the system,they are not working.The drivers are absolutely fine(as seen in Device Manager) and though the volume level of the system is at max,the sound is inaudible.I cud hear a very minute screechy sound when my speakers r connected to the CPU.The sound card option is also enabled in the CMOS.Kindly help me in resolving the issue.
ThanxIs the sound being outputted through the proper device? In sound properties, under devices, is stereo output selected as "Primary device"?YES boss,stereo ouput is selected as primary device.As already mentioned,I could hear a minute screechy sound when i connect the speaker cable to the cpu.I'm not sure what you mean by connected up to the CPU. Do you mean when you connect the speakers to the tower (box in which the computer is housed)? As you have mentioned them, have you recently updated or changed the drivers? Device manager can return false positives. Also the screech you get from the speakers, is that at all times or during playback of a sound?Quote from: Accessless on April 14, 2010, 04:11:04 AM

I'm not sure what you mean by connected up to the CPU.

but I dont have sound card separately as such.It is integrated with the motherboard itself...

I heard that there is a new version of catalyst CONTROL center from ATI (10.3) so I decided to install it. However it has been about 2 years or so SINCE I have had a version of CCC installed on my computer and I have completely forgotten how to get the CCC application running after installing Catalyst Install Manager. The program installed successfully, but I'm just not sure where to go from here. Any HELP is appreciated!

Thanks EveryoneIt will either be a Tray Icon or can be LAUNCHED from Control Panel.
Right clicking an empty desktop area may also give you a context menu choice to LAUNCH it.

When trying to print, the paper automatically jams and gets twisted. I have to PULL it out from where it goes in. It will not come out from bottom even if I press button to FEED it through. I've looked for objects in there that could cause this potentially, but saw nothing. I even shook it to try to hear something, etc. Any ideas?Shaking it was a very BAD move.
Open the owner's MANUAL or look for an online copy and READ the maintaining portion.Thanks! I'll try to find that or probably can access that manual online even

When booting, bios black screen comes up stating that SECONDARY DISK drive 0 not found, secondary disk drive 1 not found.

I have a CD Rom TDK drive and a Sony DVD Rom drive. APPARENTLY, they don't work. The TDK had its light coming on and off and running and STOPPING every 2/3 seconds. This is abnormal for sure. There was nothing in the drive. Does this mean they are/have failed? Or is this coming from the motherboard? What can I do?You could test them in another machine.
If they work, it's the fault of the motherboard and bios.
If they don't and the problem repeats itself, it's the drives.will do!

I would like to know if it is possible to DISABLE the tap part of the TOUCH pad . I couln't find any THING other than totally disable the touch pad. I still WANT to be able to move the cursor and use the keys for left and right click. Thanks

I need a usb stick 2. GB mp3 player.

the one I saw recorded sound as well.
I think it was on HsN or QVC

The ones I found are just 2 GB mp3 player with FM Radio

I want the same THING but with an Audio RECORDER and it was a stick USB??I hate to sound like an arse but, use google.
Pun INTENDED.

I'm trying up upgrade the ram on my mother's laptop. The problem is that the old 1GB memory is stuck in the laptop. Other laptops I've done upgrades on have two little clips that you push back and the memory pops up. This one is sticking out of a big silver CASING that won't budge.

The laptop is an Acer 3690.

I hope someone can help me... I'm about ready to tear my hair out.Have you tried using GOOGLE to find a howto?

My monitor seems to GO b/w normal color and then fades to a darker almost black and white SCREEN. If I smack it a LITTLE sometimes the normal screen will come back in. ALSO, when a screen FIRST comes in, it has a line-like structure to it where it seems static-like? Is the monitor going bad?Sure sounds like it, can you try it on another computer, or test another monitor with your computer?I would have to go borrow, but yes sounds like a good idea. Thanks!Let us know how it works out.

How the heck do you open the case ona winbook j4730? to replace a keyboard???MAYBE a screwdriver and a hammer?

No sorry just JOKING.. I did a BIT of research but havent found anything like an assembly manual.

Maybe a local tech at a computer shop might assist.
Still looking.
ImnoGuruHi looking through some sites I get differing results?

Is yours a winbook J4 ...... 730?

My DELL laptop easily swtiched off everytime the cooler fan speed increase. The laptop has been 3 YEARS. When it was NEW it never swtiched off like that. Anything goes wrong with my computer?

I never have a cooler pad for my laptop. Is the cooler pad really ESSENTIAL for a notebook USER?It's more essential to keep the cooling fan in the laptop clean and running well. It may also need some new thermal paste for the CPU.

It means that the device is not powered and you can remove it.

Removing/ejecting the device does not cut the power from it. It just stops any reading or writing to the device selected.

Dell Dimension 8400, P4
Win XP
Last month I received a new power supply when I took computer into the shop for a noisy fan.

Everything worked ok when I bought it home until last Sunday. The machine had a power interruption (it shut down and restarted-no, it wasn't doing any updates) and then later, the fan started racing and slowing, and racing and slowing. I shut down.
Monday it ran like a charm.
Tuesday, after machine was on all day, it completely froze up. I had to shut down via the power button. I re-started and the fan, once again, was racing and nothing else was happening. I am told by the tech, that it would not post and after 9 hours on his bench, he thinks the motherboard is gone.

So now I'm really not feeling too good about this computer repair shop and the work that was done a month ago. They say the two incidences are not connected.

Your opinions please.

Judy

Based upon you description, I believe the incidences are unrelated. A noisy fan is nothing more than the bearing in the fan starting to fail.

However, there is not enough information to determine if the new failure is the motherboard. I've seen the fan racing & slowing on the P4 DIMENSIONS before and am not sure what the cause is. I have a friend that has 1 of them does this from time to time.

If it doesn't POST, it could be a bad component, i.e. hard drive, CD-ROM, RAM (memory), etc. It's not necessarily the motherboard.

If you're not comfortable with the repair shop's work, then seek out a different one.Thanks for your input.

I FEEL better about the shop after SEEING your opinion.

A while BACK my computer was struck by lightning. After that I have trouble with my USB ports. I had to RETURN to using PS 2 serial ports for my devices. Now I can get a USB MP3 player to work but nothing else. None of the USB ports work and only a few receive power. I have tried installing NEW drivers and chip sets as well. I have tried uninstalling all drivers and reinstalling, Rebooting, and reinstalling drivers. I have even tried a new PCI usb HUB card and those ports do not work. Its getting kind of rediculous. I have spent long hours researching and trying to fix this problem. The puter is not old and is in very good condition with high proccessing speeds. I am humble enough to learn so please grace me with your knowledge...

psycoscytheGo to Device Manager.

Are there any Yellow Question/Exclamation Marks?PCI usb hub card ? Have you tried another PCI slot ? May be an IRQ conflict.

sir i think there a problem with your psu... restart your computer go to bios check your hardware monitor or something that you can check your voltage... check the 5v if its stable or plactuating if below 5v try to replace your psu...There are not any exclamations or yellow markers, it just says unknown device. I tried looking in the bios and checked the voltage, could not change though. I also tried disabling the usb from bios and reinstalling drivers but nothing.You hav a few options, #1 test by replacing the power supply #2 replace board, {before doing that} add a PCI/usb card Appx $20.00 if that solves your pblm i wouldnt go any further.One other THING, you could purchace a USB Hub with power adapter 4 port or moreHow does a USB HUB connect to the tower? I don't know if my slots work cause I have tried the PCI card already...
The usb 4 port connects to the power ,It looks like a router,{google} to get a better ideapsycoscythe, " I can get a USB MP3 player to work-----" How? truenorthHonestly, since you have non-working USB ports because of lightning, forget all the workarounds bypassing the problem (USB hub, PCI USB card, etc.). You need a new motherboard and/or power supply. Plain and simple. Working around the problem may be okay for now, but what if ALL your USB ports suddenly die from the existing damage? How about other motherboard components?

Hello. I've been having some trouble with microphone feedback. The problem occurs when using ventrilo and talking when someone else speaks at the same time.. Also, when I'm playing a game such as World of Warcraft, I have to turn off the game volume and music so that when I talk, the the game sound/music doesnt feed into my conversation. I have to uncheck mute under the microphone balance option (Volume Contol), as well as have the MIC boost checked under advanced microphone options in order for anyone to hear me. This problem happens WITH my headset on. It's getting a little ANNOYING when everyone tells me to buy a headset and I'm sitting there with one on talking through it.
I am using Windows XP 2002 ed. SP2. Thank you for any help or assistance you can offer me. I've been dealing with this for a few months and have a few pissed off guild members on my back to get this solved.What's the distance between your speakers and you when you're using the mic? Have you tried moving the speakers or yourself to increase that distance? How loud do you have the speaker volume set? Can you turn that down some?Im actually using a basic Logitech headset with a mic which is why I can't understand how sound from my headphones can transmit so clear and loud over to my mic. I don't blast my game's volume when using the headset either. It's as if I was talking with a mounted computer mic or something like that where it would easily pick up speaker sounds. Is the Mic jack on the front or rear of this machine ? ?Do you use a hearing aid? The feedback can be from the hearing aid. I plug in the headset into the back of my computer.OK, most likely the headset is broke. Try another headset. Make sure it is a headset for use on a computer, not for a CELL phone. Way to bring back an old post. This is nearly a year old and you think I still have the problem? I could think of a few other WAYS for you to get your post count up besides resurrecting a dead thread. BTW I built a computer with vista installed and it fixed the issue. Case closed.

Try a different powersupply .Quote

The Power supply im using is a DURO 400W Max.

Yep, it looks like we have overheating here.
Cleaning time tomorrow...hey long time no talk so i cleaned it....didnt change a thing BUT i made a recent discovery while im playing world of warcraft for a while it SEEMS to crash then but if im not in tehre the computercan last a very long time..... lolWhat do you mean by "I'm not there"?I'm sorry lol, i just INSTALLED a new power supply....it is now a 250 watt it seems to be working but we'll SEE when the time COMES. and by what i mean if I'm not there, i mean that if I'm not playing world of warcraftHow are the temperatures?Temps are the same....my computer has been running good all day, i noticed on my old power supply there was a burnt contact on one of the connectors : \ that may have been causing some problems.Keep US posted.

went on to Crucial.com and done the test for how much RAM and what type my computer will support it told me i can support up to 2GB in each slot and will hold a maximum of 8GB, but reading the manual for the dell dimension 5100 it states that my computer only holds up to 1GB a slot and a maximum of 4GB would like to know if crucial is just wrong or if my computer can hold more than the manual states? thanksWhat is this computer? (Manufacturer and Model Number)ive had a look and i cant find it, where should i check (sorry BOUT the STUPID questions)Laptop or Desktop?

Desktop: Should be somewhere on the front.
Laptop: Somewhere NEXT to the keyboard.desktop, and i did check there but this is all the information it gives me, and i didnt think this was what you where looking for "dell dimension 5100, intel pentium 4 processor", i could send you all the memory details thoughType 400-MHz and 533-MHz DDR2 unbuffered SDRAM
Memory connectors four
Memory capacities 256 MB, 512 MB, or 1 GB non-ECC
Minimum memory 256 MB
Maximum memory 4 GB


hope that helps As you said, Dell's manual for your computer says 4 modules x 1 GB each.

Trust Dell, not Crucial.

ADDITIONALLY, you didn't specify what OS you have, but, a 32 bit OS (which is what you most likely have) cannot access more than ≈3.5 GB, anyway, regardless of how much memory will fit onto the motherboard.ok thanks

It is the exact same motherboard and everything else works.

Isn't there a way to repair or reinstall my XP without losing data?....I'd still prefer to be able to fix it without needing to do any of that.....I can't find my cd RIGHT now...

(Yes, it is a legal version of the software)Repair Install of XP

I suggest reading thru it entirely paying special ATTENTION to the Warnings and printing out a reference copy for the task...
Done properly all your data and programs will be left intact...
Done IMPROPERLY and all your data and programs will be gone but you will have a fresh install of XP...


Quote

....I can't find my cd right now...

I don't have a TV with me now, but I do have my laptop, which is a Dell Inspiron 8200 (yeah, it's pretty old). Is there a way to connect my xbox 360 to my laptop so I could play through the monitor? My computer doesn't have the typical yellow, white, and red connections, but I was thinking there might be a cable I could buy to convert to something else. I dont know for sure if a USB to TV adapter will work ? I f we could get more advice on the adapter i posted it would help.A USB TV tuner would work. However, two things just might ruin your day:

1) USB 2.0 bandwidth may not be enough.
2) If the tuner does any rendering, you'll get a 1-3 second DELAY with the picture on your laptop screen.

I've tried this with an ATI Theater 550 PCI card in my main PC, a Sony PlayStation 2, and both XP and Vista MEDIA Center. The delay was about 1 second between the time I press a BUTTON on the GAME controller and the time I see the results of it.

However, I used Windows Movie Maker to create a YouTube video in this manner and there was no delay.

So it may also depend on what software you are using to view the output of the tuner...

In Device MANAGER, uninstall everything under "Universal Serial Bus Adapters." Restart your COMPUTER and let Windows reinstall the USB controllers. Now try plugging in your hard drive.Quote

I went to the link you provided, but it is for a WD Caviar INTERNAL Hard Drive, but MINE is a WD My Book External Hard Drive.....

Just found out that DELL installed some CPU fans BACKWARDS from FACTORY. This caused my hard-drive TEMP to be 55deg.C See my thread on eBay puter forums.

http://http://forums.ebay.com/db1/thread.jspa?threadID=510013114&start=0Thanks for the warning Good FIND.

Hi,

I have very strange problem.My Desktop is running fine in safe mode.But when i try to boot in normal mode it restarts again and again.

What i tried to fix the Prblm ?
System Formatted several times
Tried different OS like vista, XP
Tried changing graphic card
full syastam scan by kaspersky and bitdeffender

PC configuration
Core 2 duo 2.2 Ghz
Intel 965RY desktop board
2 GB Single DDR 2 667 MHZ Kingston Memory
Seagate 320 GB sata Hard Drive
N-vedia 7400 GT 512 MB graphics Card

PLz help. you try format OS.. then install fresh window XP.. i tried this(formating OS) many times with diferent cds and dvds but no helpStart in Safe Mode and disable re-start on error so that an error message will appear when you try to boot normally: (For XP) Control Panel>System>Advanced TAB>Startup and Recovery>SETTINGS, remove the check in "Automatically Restart."

Boot normally - POST the error message here.

Also, DOWNLOAD and run memtest86 (memtest86.org) Burn the .iso file to a CD and boot from the CD. Test each RAM module separately (remove all but one module at a time) for at least 2 hours. If each module passes separately, test with both modules for at least 4 hours. ANY error means a defective module.well i already tried to disable automatic restart still no error,no blue screnn,it still automaticaly shuts down at windows logo(booting screen).
I tried memtest86. MY ram passed all test without any error.

what 2 do next ?Please give more history on this problem - Before this problem did you change/add/remove any hardware, any drivers; did you install or uninstall any software?

When you "formatted" I assume that you did a format from the Windows install CD and then did a "clean" install - is this correct? Were there any problems installing Windows? Are you installing from original CD's/DVD's or copies?

1) Download and run the diagnostic software from the website of the manufacturer of the hard drive.

2) Disconnect everything from the computer except: one RAM module, keyboard, mouse, graphics card and monitor.

3) Try another power supply of the same or greater wattage.

Try each in the order listed and post back.ys ,the Power supply was faulty.i've changed it ad now the pc is running fine.
Thnx drmsucksGreat - glad that your computer is back to normal

i have my vgasave DISABLED by mistake...i know im not the first....and ive tried your SUGGESTIONS from the other thread by jollycorner, and i've tried the recovery console...enable vgasave etc...,but my screen is STILL black,i dont know what to do now, its an old pc, but i just dont want to lose it, you know...its something valuable and memorable to me, so pls. pls,help me out, i'd really appreciate it, thank God for guys like you, i'd LOVE to hear replies asap....thanks again!


its WINDOWS xp 2000 sp1
pentium 4 intel r

Shut down.
Power back up and tap F8 repeatedly ...
The safemode screen will come up....be patient it takes awhile to load sometimes.
Choose Safe Mode.
Go to Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager and undo the changes you made...

Hi

I am new here so Hi! I am sure this is a pretty simple query to those in the KNOW!

I have an OKI C3200 lazer printer; I have just changed the drum and black ink but it is now saying on the ERROR message that there is an error with the black TONER SENSOR - what does this mean!?

All help much appreciated

FionaYou need to read the manual. The sensor MIGHT be just a little switch or button. When the toner is in and the door is closed the sensor can tell if everything is in the right place. If it is an optical sensor, there might be powder that got into it and you have to blow it out.

I'm using a GT5468 Windows Vista Home Premium computer to transfer data from my 320 GB WD Caviar SE 7200RPM external hard drive to my 750 GB WD My book. All is well until I try to move a single file that is larger than 10 GB, I get a message that says,

File Too Large
The file "Movie clip 1" is too large for the destination file system
Movie clip 1
Type: Video Clip
Size: 13.0 GB
Length: 01:01:26

I have tried to cut the movie clip into movable pieces but have had no success. Do I need to change the preferences on my external hard drives or something else, or is it impossible to transfer single FILES larger than 10 GB MAKING me figure out how a way to cut a video clip, say in half to transfer it?

Thank you for any ideas What file format does the My Book have? FAT 32?How did you get it on there in the first place?Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on September 14, 2008, 11:12:35 PM

How did you get it on there in the first place?

Hi, I tried to do a search on my problem before I posted this.. I have a sound card. Under Controller information in DEVICES it says SOUNDMAX Integrated Digital Audio Analog Devices, Inc. Playback it has a green check / WORKING icon.
On CD Player, Line In, MONO Out, and Phone Line the properties all say Currently unavailable.
When I look at properties for each -- CD, Line in, Mono out, and phone line -- under Jack information -- it reads No Jack Information Available.
When I try to test the sound scheme the green TEST arrow -- nata. Please help me EXPERTS, and I apologise if the answer is obvious.
Note: I had a pair of external speakers I added separately but I think they kaput because the speakers cut off everytime I turn them on -- they never worked with this PC for the record, but did many years ago for an older PC I once had. Anyway, I've unplugged the external speakers and am trying to figure out how to access, or even figure out if I have internal speakers, and how to produce sound on this. Thanx!
Start with getting a pair of new speakers.um ya.... the internal speakers only makes the beep like broni said new speakers

Ok i just bought a Kingston 1gb ddr2 667mhz ram to go with my other stick of ram which is exactly the same.
Well the only difference appears to be the chipset, on the new one it looks as though its elpida but on the current one it just says kingston on the chips.

When i put them both in though and turn on the computer i get 1 long beep, followed by 2 short beeps.
when i have just the new one in on its own the computer starts to load but then stop with no beeps. But when its just the old one on its own, it works fine.

I thought i would try here before i assume its faulty ram. What is also odd is i checked a site for asus beep codes and 1 long beep followed by 2 shorts is supposed to mean there is a video ADAPTER error.

I dont think its a lack of power as i have a 500w PSU.
And yes before you ask, i did take anti-static precautions.

Any help is appreciated?What happens if you take the old ram out and place the new stick of ram where the old one was.

There is a bit of difference between the brand you have mentioned, and other ones such as Corsair and Kingston. These are reputuble and very good manufacturers of RAM and will almost certainly work in most computers. Other, CHEAPER brands may not work, because of compatibility differences.
What motherboard do you have? Is it set up to run the RAM in dual channel? Do both sticks of RAM have the same latency?

If the motherboard has dual channel enabled but the sticks have different latency, issues will most likely occur. @ Crafty, like i said in my main post, if i have just the new stick in the computer starts but then stops but does not bleep. Nothing is shown on the screen.

Looking in the manual, it does not mention that elpida 1gb is a 'qualified vendor' but 1gb kingston is. I was sold this under the impression that this was kingston?

@ Eg0Death, My MoBo is Asus M2V-MX SE. I have no idea if dual channel is enabled, think its on auto but will have to check. And i assume they are both the same latency. They are both 667Mhz DDR2 PC2-5300.Then I belive it is your ram. Try a better brand like I have already mentioned. If you have placed the new ram where the old ram was, then it should work like the old ram.I suggest you check www.asus.com for their Qualified Vendors List regarding RAM. This lists the memory modules that have been tested and qualified for use with that motherboard.

According to the manual, your motherboard has dual channel capability. If it's set to auto the board may detect that both sticks of RAM are the same speed and attempt to use them in dual channel, which sometimes doesn't work if they are from different vendors and/or have different latency.

Even if they are both 667 Mhz DDR2 the latency can be different. This page from newegg.com is an example. Note the different latency values.

Assuming it is qualified for that motherboard, that new stick of RAM should work by itself. If you put it in the first RAM slot and leave the other empty and it fails on boot, that probably means it's no good or not supported. (Refer to the Qualified Vendors List.) @ Crafty, this is supposed to be kingston. And the guy who sold it me say they use elpida chips. Are you saying that the ram i have is not kingston?

@ Eg0Death, Putting the new stick of ram in the first slot and leaving the other empty was the first thing i tried after it didnt work. That just stops when its trying to boot.
I couldnt find the qualified vendors list on the asus website but according to the manual the only elpida that is supported is a 512mb 533mhz. However my ram is supposed to be the 1gb kingston 667mhz which is supported, but the ram has chips made by elpida? Would this effect it.
Because it doesn't work on its own i am assuming its nothing to do with the dual channel. Maybe i should just return it?I would RMA the RAM. If you need confirmation, run MEMTEST86: http://www.memtest.org/. Run on each module separately for at least 2 hours. If no errors, install both modules and run test for at least 4 hours (or 7 passes). ANY error is cause for rejection.

As an aside - anytime that you add RAM to existing RAM, there is a chance for incompatability. Electrical and physical characteristics quite often differ, even among RAM of the same type and spec. However, the fact that the new RAM won't operate in your computer by itself makes it suspect, assuming that it is the right type and voltage.

If you can, buy two new modules and sell or otherwise dispose of the "old" RAM; if your board supports dual channel memory, buy a matched set and be sure to place the modules in the proper slots.

Best of luck!How many RAM slots on that board and where are the sticks oriented ? ?
This can also make a difference on some boards...@ drmsucks, I really dont have the time to be able to run that memtest.

@ patio, there are only 2 slots, and i have tried every possible combination. None work.


Im just going to give up and send this one back, get my MONEY back and then do as drmsucks suggests and buy 2 the same from the same place.
Because it doesn't work when its on its own leads be to believe either faulty ram or not compatible with mobo.
Anyway returning it is. Thanks for all your help Sounds good...
Maybe sell the good Kingston and move on...
Welcome Aboard and stop by anytime !

I've been through a lot to get this to work, so this is my last ditch effort.

I have a SanDisk U3 cruzer micro 4GB USB storage device. Its been working great for a few months and then it suddenly stopped working. It stopped working after I tried to use a USB port on my desktop and I had forgotten the specific port did not work. (Was at the front of the case, was too lazy to connect that up when I built my computer) I had taken out the device and then it wouldn't work.

It now always comes up as an error. I am using microsoft windows XP and Vista with this drive. The error states:

"USB Device Not Recognized"
"One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it. For assistance in solving this problem, click this message."

I went through its shpeel and nothing worked. I tried downloading the U3 driver software to try to "reboot" the drive but it seems that it won't even start up because it doesn't see the USB drive.

Again, I've tried on multiple INTERFACES with multiple computers, even with my USB player in my car and it says "no device". Probably its dead and I can't get it back, but just wanted to get some feedback to see if there was anything else I could do. This has been the 5th USB I've lost in a year from multiple different companies and I SWEAR its such a headache to even keep one running.It sounds to me like you have damaged or shorted out the USB drive. If it doesn't work on any other computers, I think it's gone.

It also seems you have tried pretty much everything I would have suggested you try.

There is one thing I am curious about....
Quote

This has been the 5th USB I've lost in a year from multiple different companies

It sounds to me like you have damaged or shorted out the USB drive. If it doesn't work on any other computers, I think it's gone.

It also seems you have tried pretty much everything I would have suggested you try.

There is one thing I am curious about....
Quote

This has been the 5th USB I've lost in a year from multiple different companies

What happened to them?

A great question I have....is there any other storage device other then USB that is out on the market other then external harddrives? (even though that is what usb literally is).

Quote from: Karroog on September 16, 2008, 08:22:13 AM

A great question I have....is there any other storage device other then USB that is out on the market other then external harddrives? (even though that is what usb literally is).

Ahah, that is where you are a slightly mistaken, my friend.

USB Storage Drives use Flash memory and External Hard Drives use an actual Disk.
In other words, Flash Drives (USB Storage Drives) have no moving parts, less prone to damage by falling, and are smaller in memory capacity whereas an External Hard Drive has moving parts, can be damaged by falling, but has a very large storage capacity.

I don't think there is any other type of memory available except PhaseChange which wont be out for another decade or so.

I have just purchased a new WD 650GB hard drive and want to use this as my windows drive. I have two WD 250 GB harddrives in the computer at the moment. One is a windows drive the other is used to take images of that windows drive. I use the program Acronis to do my backups and want to restore this image to my new 650 GB hard drive. I have read somewhere that i do not have to reinstall my OS to the new hard drive and that i can just somehow copy the image over to the new drive. Can anyone here please tell me how i do this. Thanks!!I take it that nobody, including me, knows anything about this program then?You can just copy the image, yes.
Start up Acronis and choose "Restore image" (I think that's it, not sure what version you're on and I haven't used it in a while), then just restore one of your created images to the new drive.
If you don't have a current image you can clone your 250GB drive to the new one, but you may need to create the Acronis bootable CD to do that, I'm not sure.
Hope this helps a little, sorry it's so vague but I really haven't used Acronis in a long time.Did you create an Acronis bootable CD > >
If so you simply BOOT to the CD RUN Acronis and choose the target drive ( the one you want to image to ) and then find the appropiate .tib FILE....select restore and let it run.
Disconnect all drives except the one you just imaged and boot to it to make sure everything is working.

Which ver. of Acronis is this ? ?Thanks for the help guys! I did what you said and all is working ok now. Good News !

The Acronis Help files are pretty extensive however if you get in a BIND then I Recommend and Use This Site...

My PC started behaving ODDLY a few months ago, switching itself off etc.... It then got worse, the files on my hard-drive started dissapearing. The computer will now not go pass the loading windows stage before resetting itself. I've tried to reinstall windows, but even this has failed.... it still wont boot. I have even tried a working hard-drive from my back-up machine and that wont boot either - it does exactly the same thing (resets before windows LOADS).

Can anyone give me some advise on this problem, is my motherboard knackered?

Many thanks

JonathanCheck you bios settings [can you get into bios?]set bios for default. The symptoms could actually mean any component from the PSU to the RAM or anything else could be failing...
Post alot more info on the machine and what happened prior to this and someone will be along shortly...I've reset the bios to default (and safe fail), nothing happened. The motherboard reports the memory as being ok on initial boot screen. I've taken out my graphics card, and am now on the onboard graphics (no change)

I've tried to reinstall windows but the process reaches 30ish% (if i'm lucky) and then starts giving out read error messages on startup files. I've tried the same windows cd, cd-drive and hard disk with another motherboard and it installs without any problems (I've tried three different windows cd's and i get the same problem - works on one machine but not this one..... using the same cd-drive and hard drive (and same ide cables).

Does this information make any sense to anyone?

Thanks for all your help

Jonathan

My 3 lead suspects in no particular order :

PSU
Borrow a known good one of the same or GREATER WATTAGE and swap it in there...
If the symptoms go AWAY replace it. Don't buy a cheap one.

RAM
DLoad and run MemTest...let it run at least 2 hours...any errors and you have bad RAM...replace it.

HDD
Find out whose drive you have and DLoad the Free diagnostics from the drive manuf. site.
These are used to create a bootable CD.
Boot to it and run the long test...if it fails replace the drive.

After trying all of these if you still have the issues then it may be the MBoard or CPU.

I have a NVIDIA GeForce 8600GT graphics CARD. Its fan seems to have problems starting up when I turn the computer on. The only way to get it to start is to manually give it a spin. Once I do, it runs without problem. I've closely monitored the temperature levels and have not seen anything EXCEEDINGLY high. I have attempted to clean the fan as best I could, but have seen no improvement. I was hoping to replace the fan and am not sure as to which one to get. Any help with this would be great.Go to newegg web site [fans gpu]Quote from: xavier on September 14, 2008, 11:32:40 AM

Go to newegg web site [fans gpu]

I bought a WD 500GB HD to use as external storage. I have a case that it sits in and it connects via USB. I formateed it fine and allocated a drive but when I copy files over to it I get a "Delayed Write Fail". I followed all the instructions from Microsoft without luck.

I decided to swap it out with my secondary drive in my computer. When it is installed as an internal drive, it works perfectly. To further test, I placed the former HD from my computer into the portable device. It copies files from it to the internal fine but copying files from the internal to the external GIVE me the same Delayed Write Fail message. What am I missing?There may be some problem with the case (or "enclosure" as they are sometimes called). Some of the no-name Chinese MODELS can be a bit problematic. Did you buy it empty and fit the HDD yourself? Was it a cheap enclosure? (Answer "Yes"=Big Clue!) You say you have "followed all the instructions from Microsoft", which doesn't actually tell us very much! You didn't bother to tell us what OS you are using either, which makes me think it may be a Microsoft product!! I'll presume that, and ask, did you go to the optimize for reliability/performance DIALOG in Device Manager and choose reliability?
Well, the case was given to me by a friend who had never used it so I cannot verify its quality. Is there a common problem with cheap models? Didn't thnik there would be enough componants to screw up.

As for the other parts, I am using Win XP and I have gone through all the reliability/performance steps and have followed a few other steps given by some online guides. At this point I am assuming it is the case if you reckon they can be dodgy. Guess nothing is free A problem with cheap enclosures can be the quality control at the manufacturing stage. You have a USB-to-IDE or SATA adapter board in there. It could be the USB port or controller on the computer I suppose. Maybe you could test the enclosure on another computer? With a different CABLE perhaps?


Also what USB ports are you hooking this up to front or rear ? ?
Front ports on many machines are notoriously under-powered.
How many other USB devices are hooked up at the time ? ?
This can affect it as well.Good point, Patio. I was presuming that this is an enclosure with its own power supply, but maybe it is not.
Thanx...that's what i was suspecting.The enclosure has its own power supply and I changed the USB cord as well as I suspected it have been the culprit but to no avail.

I am currently using the USB slot on the top of my machine which I imagine would count as a front slot. I only have 1 other USB device connected to my machine which is my wireless mouse.Power down and connect the drive to a rear slot...
Power up wait 3 minutes then right clik My Computer...
Select Manage then Disk Management...
Find the external and right clik it and select Properties...
Report back with how it's listed...You will have to bare with me, I am work at the moment, I will try it when I get home. Thankyou for you patience and info so far. Great site.You're Welcome and Welcome to CH...
We'll be here...Ok, home now.

What am I looking for?

Type: LocalDisk
File System: NTFS

The Allow Indexing function is selected.For now run Disk Cleanup on it and then select Tools and run the error checking feature...

Okay so here's the problem. I had two maxtor 500g HDDs hooked up in a RAID 0. The ARRAY failed and now I'm trying to re-install windows Vista, and I want to hook it up minus the RAID array, as it was just too much of a pain in the *censored* for someone with my limited knowledge. So I deleted the array in BIOS and booted up the windows disk to re-install. BIOS ALWAYS shows my both HDDs no matter what Sata plug they're in, but when I get to the windows install it doesn't even see my HDD half of the time, and when it does it fails trying to FORMAT or re-install. So here are my guesses and let me know what think.

1. Bad SATA cables? My case has some funny bends and maybe a bad cable would be the reason THINGS show up sometimes but not others.

2. Bad hard drive?

Anyone had a similar experience?Very early on in the install PROCESS you will see a prompt to "Press F6 to install Raid/SATA drivers....do so and re-install the SATA drivers from your MBoard CD...

Hello

I am having problems with my laptop. It doesn't always TYPE the key I have chosen and if I try and use the same key more than once then this doesn't work either, E.G the delete button i cant hold this in to delete or tap it fast i have to keep tapping and hope for the best. this happens on all keys and there is no real pattern to as and when it happens. This is really ANNOYING and has only recently started being like this, I have took the battery out and then restarted the computer and it worked but I have turned the computer off before and it worked and the problem returned when I used the laptop on a different occasion, can anyone help?

The laptop is Siemens Esprimo mobile V5535 and I have windows vista

I am hopeless with computers so any help is appreciated
thanks Sounds like you may have unseated the KEYPAD CONNECTOR. They are quite fragile and prone to unseating from any physical stress placed on on the laptop. Check your computer manufacturer's website for dissasembly instructions and reseat the keypad. Or if it is still under WARRANTY, let them fix it.

My computer laptop HP Vista about 2 yrs old was running fine and then it went to the black screen like it does when I am away from it for too long. However, after pressing every button including the power button it will not come back on. Help. It will power off and then when i hit the power on button the lights will come on but it returns to the black screen and stays that WAY. Help!I had a Laptop do this the other day, all lights, no action.
What I had to do (once it was tuned off) was unplug everything from the laptop, remove the battery and try to turn it on like normal to drain all power from it.
Then replace the battery and turn on like normal and Viola! working fine again

Kurtis1. Display Cutoff Switch. By design, I would expect power to the display to be cutoff when the display screen is FOLDED down. This may be accomplished by a "cutoff" switch somewhere along the top back edge of the laptop. Is it possible the switch is "stuck" in the down position?

2. External Monitor. The display output of a laptop may be directed to the built in screen, an external monitor, or both. Is it possible a function key was hit directing the display output to the external monitor port?

3. Did the display screen go "black" as you were watching it?

4. Is anything displayed on the screen as the laptop starts?Ok new problem. It is now trying to start but I get an error saying the FOLLOWING file is missing or corrupt
windows/system32/config/system

It say I can try and rerun start up disk ( which I dont have)

HelpAny idea what caused the "black" screen on your laptop?I am having a very similar problem. It's an HP dv6000 PURCHASED in Jan 07. When I try to power it up, the lights turn on, the fan begins to go, then the fan stops and there are 3 really loud beeps. 1 long followed by 2 SHORT. Can anyone help?Quote from: grant782 on September 15, 2008, 08:25:32 PM

I am having a very similar problem. It's an HP dv6000 purchased in Jan 07. When I try to power it up, the lights turn on, the fan begins to go, then the fan stops and there are 3 really loud beeps. 1 long followed by 2 short. Can anyone help?

The NOISE of the fan on my PC has always annoyed me and I would like to replace it with a quieter version.

What should I take note of before getting a replacement - Device Manager describes it only as "ACPI Fan". I've not yet looked in the CPU case at the fan and I thought I had better get some advice about how to proceed.

I have Windows XP SP3 - AMD Sempron 2800+ processorWe will need to know which fan it is you want to replace... eg Case CPU PSU Hard disk, to determin which fan to recommend you look for.Probably your best BET is to remove it and take it with you so the store can match it up properly...
MAKE SURE to make notes of it's orientation and wiring beforehand.Thanks for answers - I'll give it a go.

Okay so.
I have an NVIDIA GeForce 6200PCI and Intel Extreme Graphics (82845GV).
I decided I wanted to try setting up dual monitors.. Shouldn't be that hard, right? WRONG.
I have both the latest NVIDIA drivers and the latest Intel drivers.
I have the GeForce set as my primary display adapter in my BIOS, Intel as secondary.
When I go to ENABLE the second monitor, I click "Extend my Windows Desktop onto this Monitor" and hit okay. Nothing happens. I go back in to find that the box is unchecked.
Most peculiar is when I set the intel as my primary adapter in the BIOS. When I go into display properties, i get an error MESSAGE saying that my video drivers are for an older version of windows and it's REVERTED to the default VGA drivers.
The only RESOLUTION available for my GeForce after that is -2 x -2.
However, I installed an older PCI video card, and dual monitors worked just fine, so it's not my GeForce.. it has to be the Intel Extreme Graphics.
Anyone have any idea?
Thanks!
<3Johnthe 6200 has dual monitor support, why dont you just use the 6200 and disable the onboard video?Agrees with Homer.

Dual monitoring with Intel Extreme Graphics + a GeForce 6000+ series card or anything better than a RADEON 9800 = A Very Bad Thing(tm).

Trying that with Crysis on the wrong monitor is just asking for a BSOD...I think the graphics sources are too disparate. Kind of like putting a monster truck tire on the driver's side and a bicycle tire on the passenger side of your Buick. Just ain't gonna work.

Hi, I have a sata 2, 320gb hdd and an ide 400gb. My ide is set to primary slave, access mode=auto. I am using Windows Vista and XP together, as dual boot. I am booting both the operating systems through my 320gb sata2. The 400gb ide is working without any pblems in windows vista, but in xp in - COMPUTER managemnt > Disk Management i am GETTING my 400gb ide as online (healty, Gpt Protective Partition) and i cannot click on any more options.So you can access the hard drive in Vista, but not in XP?

Any errors in Device Manager? (yellow question marks or exclamation marks)If you right click it and select Properties what is being reported ? ?
Do this on both machines...XP can't read GPT partitions...that's why.

If you want XP to access that data, you'll have to copy it all to another drive. Reformat the offending drive (preferrably in XP so you don't accidentally create GPT partitions again in Vista), then copy your data back.thanks a lot guys, no errors nothing in device manager(though i cant click on any option except help) and i can access it in vista without any problems. Is there any other way around killer killerb255 to read it in xp, coz BACKING up 400gb of data is going to be a *censored* of a TASK .Take a gander at these articles:

http://www.microsoft.com/whdc/device/storage/GPT_FAQ.mspx
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc737510.aspx

According to the second article, the only way to change from GPT back to MBR (old skool partitions) is to format...

There may be THIRD party tools out there to get around that problem (similar to going from NTFS to FAT/FAT32 or from Dynamic to Basic disks--normally you have to format), but you'll be taking a BIG risk with your data using those...

I bought a NETGEAR wireless router. Set it up on my desk top per instructions and now have a small wireless network in my home. I also secured it with a passkey. However, when I t connect to the network with my laptop, I get "Limited Access" and cannot get on the internet. Where did I foul up? I thought that it was working when I first set it up, but maybe not.

2nd question, How can I transfer data between my desktop and my laptop thru the network? I need to be able to do that if I can. Thanks for listening (reading) JIMHello Jim,

Well how is the router connected....?? From the Modem straight to the router??? How does it go

Now i can help you with the second question.... What are the OSS that are on your computers??? Are they using the same router?

Cohen
That limited or no connectivity icon COULD have several causes:

low wireless signal (I'm sure you'd be aware of that)
incompatible DHCP settings (set them to automatic, on both the computers and router)
COHEN: ISP hookup; Cable (Time Warner) - to - modem, modem -to - router (via eathernet cable),
router - to - desktop eathernet input.

My desk top is running Windows XP with SP-2 and my laptop is running Vista Home Premium. The laptop has a built in wifi transciever, which detects wireless transmissions from the router. When I am at my #1 son's house, I can connect thru my grandson's wireless router and he is running Windows 98 SE-2. But I run into the same problem at my #3 sons house. His wife is running VISTA PRO. Their in-house computers can all connect into the internet but I can't.

BC_PROGRAMMMER: I have a good healthy wireless signal. Al the bars are full. I am now GOING to pursue checking the DHCP settings. That will be a blast. Let's see, you already said both computers. Like I told COHEN, one is running windows XP, while the other is running Vista. (ugh)

Thanks guys for your responses. Will let U know how I come out, GBU JIMBC_PROGRAMMER I checked the DCHP settings on the desktop and the laptop and they are both set on "Automatic". However I don't know what the router is set at. I don't know how to get to it to check it. Do you? Anyway, I still cannot get access to the internet with my laptop. Thanks for the info, GBU JIMIf you've never gone into the router setup, how did you enable a passkey ?

if the method you used to enable a passkey was from the computer, there is the problem right there- the computer thinks it needs to encrypt/decrypt the signal, but the router is sending unencrypted data. To test this theory, remove the passkey as defined on your computer(s).

for the setup page...


I cannot be sure how exactly yours will be accessed- but this should do the trick:


browse to http://192.168.1.1

(ignore this next portion if the above works)
if that doesn't work-

Start->Run CMD ...

the command interpreter should start-

type "ipconfig" in the box.


there should be an entry, "default gateway"- browse to that address as shown above. (http://) form.



you may be prompted for a username/password- try the combinations given here if your router manual doesn't state them:

http://www.fulton.net.au/qt006.htm


I've never used a netgear router and so have no idea how it's interface works. explore the different areas the page gives you, of course looking for something along the lines of DHCP. For the router I connect to, a Linksys, this is on the first page. Look for a way that it allows you to "DHCP release" or "DHCP renew", then select to repair your connection. (from the system tray icon)



BC_Programmer Well I don't know what I did right but it is now working. I did mange tolog on to my router via the site you sent me. I fooled around with the various encryption styles, on both the laptop and the router, which made matters worse. (The laptop would not even attempt to connect. Left a message that the settings were not compatible). Finally, I restored my laptop to previous date, downloaded most recent update on the router, changed the passkey and VIOLA it worked. Whadido?? I dunno. So, thanks to your guidance, I manage to muddle through to success. So, as my son's wife would SAY, G'donya Mate, Thank you GBU JIMWell congratulations! Enjoy your new router!You might want to remember that it is better to set up the network first, before passkeys and other variables are introduced. OK. I'll keep that in MIND. I'm not sure how it all h appened. I was trying to follow the directions on the installation CD. I have run into this situation before on other networks and other computers but had no idea how to even approach the problem. Thanks for the advice, JIM

I believe my one of my HHD’s is failing or is going to. I have two hard drives, one is a 500 GB which is my boot drive and a 1 TB one for storage with all my music, movies, documents, downloads and any other stuff I do not want on my boot drive. Recently I have been GETTING “write errors” from various programs and my computer is freezing at random points. When I unplug the TB drive when XP is loaded everything runs great with no problems. For a couple of days now when ever XP loads it runs chkdsk on my TB drive which only takes a few minutes and it never finds anything.
After that when I get into XP my computer runs sluggishly until I unplug the drive. Sometimes the BIOS takes a while to find the drive in POST.

I was wondering if it is failing or going to soon. I have not heard any unusual sound or felt any unusual vibrations as well as temps, it is cooler than my 500 GB.

I have replaced the SATA cables going to the drive as well as the power cable too. I recently ran a Hitachi Drive Fitness Tool for three hours and it returned with no errors. Because of the freezing I have not been able to run a defrag or virus scan for a week.

EVGA 780i SLI mobo
Core 2 Duo E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS 640 MB x2 SLI
2 GB of OCZ SLI-ready RAM
500 GB Hitachi HHD (boot) and 1TB Hitachi (storage/backup)
Windows XP Pro SP3
Ubuntu 8.04 64bit i would say that its time to purchase a new HD or, if its still under warranty, get it replaced.

however, before you replace the HD, you might want to go over to hitachi's website and download one of their HD tools to confirm WHETHER or not the drive is failing.try windows vista
or
windows xp sp3 driver issue
hdd problem "heat"
because all 300GB and upwords are corruptQuote from: vikramrmore on October 01, 2008, 11:46:47 PM

windows xp sp3 driver issue
hdd problem "heat"
because all 300GB and upwords are corrupt

however, before you replace the HD, you might want to go over to hitachi's website and download one of their HD tools to confirm whether or not the drive is failing.

because all 300GB and upwords are corrupt

Ok, I built a PC for my brother. OS is XP Pro 32 bit. Parts are:

Asus M3N-HT Deluxe
AMD 9850 quad core
4 Gig of Corsair XMS2 memory
300 Gig WD VELOCIRAPTOR HD
EVGA Geforce 260 (x2 though only 1 is installed atm) video card
Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-FI Fatality Sound Card
Coolmax 950w modular power supply
Thermaltake Max Orb CPU cooler

I do have Windows defender, spybot search and destroy and Avast anti-virus installed. The issue I'm having
(listed below) was happening even prior to the installation of that software.


Here is the dilemma. EVERYTHING is running. I took out the SECOND video card due to a possible power consumption issue with such a large video card going SLI, but when we start up the PC it cycles on/off 3-4 times before it finally just STAYS on. What could cause this? I've pulled memory sticks out to see if they might have been defective. They weren't. I've checked all power connections and yet again nothing. The OS is stable, but the only things I can come up with might be a failing PSU (even though its brand new?). Any advice in a direction would be great to alleviate the problem. The PC itself, after its up and running, runs beautifully, but I've never had a PC cycle on and off before staying on before. I'm concerned with damage to the hardware or the CPU/Motherboard from the constant power cycling.

Thanks in advance.

GerryTry CHANGING the boot menu in biosDid you use Thermal Compound assembling the heatsink and CPU ? ?

Is the MaxOrb seated correctly ?Patio:

I used thermal compound on installation. The Max Orb was a little rough to get in, but it finally had properly seated during assembly. The cycling had been happening from just about the get go after assembly and after the first reboot of the windows install.


Xavier:

As in change the boot order? or? Sorry not understanding fully what you're suggesting.

BTW, thanks for the quick replies.

If this CPU shipped with a stock cooling fan i would try that first...
You will need to clean off the Thermal Compound completely and re-apply...
Not fun i know but it will help narrow down the culprit.

Hi I have a PCI-Express x16 slot on my motherboard and I'm looking to upgrade my video card, but I was curious to SEE if the new pci-e 2.0 video cards will work with my x16 slot please let me know ASAP. thank YOUIT may work since most 2.0 video cards are backward compatible with PCI-E 1.0 slots, however this is not guaranteed. Some video cards may have problems. Best if you CHECK with your MANUFACTURER to make sure.

Hi

I have just found out that someone is using my msn account to play on xbox live. I never ever give my passwords out to anybody, so I am not sure how they were able to use my password to msn. What I would like to know now is, how can i stop them using my msn account. Please advise me on this. Thanks!Change your password ASAP, to something strong.
Might be a good idea to change your security questions too.And start thinking about who else has access to your computer...Quote from: patio on October 02, 2008, 03:05:38 PM

And start thinking about who else has access to your computer...

Gotta love how people instantly think that it was a hacker breaking into their computer rather then some casual onlooker who saw them type the password.

Also why would they use it for somthing as stupid as xbox live?

I have a genealogy software program (and the associated files) installed on a completely separate internal hard drive (L:/). There is nothing else on this hard drive. All other programs are on the main internal hard drive (C:/). Recently the genealogy program failed to open due to file corruption (that's what the warning message said anyway). After spending a lot of time trying to get it to open, I decided to reformat the L:/ drive and reinstall the genealogy software. About an half-hour into the formatting the electrical power went off. After it booted back up I ran the format hard drive again 3 or 4 times (it took hours) but it didn't WORK. I can see the hard drive listed in the "My Computer" window but it has no "PROPERTIES" and doesn't work at all.

I'm running Vista Premium and the hard drive is Western Digital WD2500KS (WD Cavier SE16).

Any help or suggestions will be greatly APPRECIATED. Thanks. I would suggest travelling to WD's site and DLoading the DATA Lifeguard tools.
Follow the INSTRUCTIONS for creating a bootable CD with the tools on it.
Use the tool that is for preparing a new drive for first use...
Good Luck !Thanks patioo but WD's Data Lifeguard Tool (for this hard drive) won't install or work in Vista. When trying to install it, a message appears and says it only works in XP or earlier Operating Systems appears and it cancels the installation. WD's Diagnostic Tool does work in Vista but it can't fix anything. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks. No.
They are not designed to work inside Windows...although there is a version for this...
You want the ones that will create a boot CD..
Click Here and follow the instructions.
After making the CD put it in the drive and re-boot.I have burned the bootable CD but now I'm afraid to run it. Why? Because I have everything on my main drive (C:/) and I don't know if the boot CD just goes right to C:/ (and wipes it) or gives me the choice to pick the drive I really want to fix (which is L:/).

I'm sorry to be so dense. I do appreciate your help. It will ask which drive you want to work on but it may not ID it as L:\.....it's best to use the model # or if the other drive C:\ is a different brand you will be able to TELL them apart..Patio - Thanks for all your help. I think I'm just going to buy another hard drive and install it. When I boot using the CD it tells me that there is already a version of Windows on my computer and proceeding further may result in creating problems (not the exact wording of course). I can't take the chance on wiping (or otherwise maiming) my main drive (C:/). I'm just not expert enough in this area. Thanks again!

I am looking at a Video Card and it says it has a Shader Clock of 1625 MHz

I did some looking around the Web to SEE what a Shader Clock Speed is and I foundout it is how fast it Randers an image I think.

But I still did not understand so I called the place that MAKES the Video Card and they could not explane what it was to me.

So I KNOW the Resolotion is 2048 x 1536 @ 85 Hz
Now I understand this tells me the card an support displaing an image like this.

2048 Pixels Wide by 1536 High and it will have a Refrash Rate of 85 times per sec.
And it will through up the image 85 times per sec.

To me that is Randering but I find infor that says the Shader Clock is the Randering Speed.

I know I am getting lost with all the diferant information thats out there. So can someone tell me what a Shader Clock is?
THANKSYou keep writing "Randering". Do you mean "RENDERING"?

The quick 101 - Shaders explained

http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-280-review-test/2
OK I whent to the link and I think I have it.

A Shader is how the GPU will LIGHT an Object and how it will Build an Object.
So a Shader Clock is how fast it does this.

Do I have it now??

RAID0 is called striping and it writes HALF the data to one hard drive and half to the other. If that drive is totally dead then the only way you can recover it is to send it to a specialist. This is why you should backup your important data often, or run RAID1.

As a hardware guy I can't help but ask these questions, forgive me:

Does the hard drive spin up? If not, then the electronics are dead. Its possible if you found the electronics from an identical drive you could swap it out and copy the hard drive to another drive.

If it does spin up but clicks, you might be able to toss it in the freezer over nite and quickly read it off the next morning. IBM (Hitachi) Death stars were known to be able to save a lot of data that way. Its a total shot in the dark and could cause more damage if its dead because of a HEAD crash.

If I were you I'd buy NEW hard drives and run RAID1 on a fresh install. I have two raid1 setups in my server and my laptop runs raid1. I don't trust hard drives any more. I've lost too much data.

I don't THINK the respawn kit will work with the new motherboard. I suspect its got all the drivers needed for the old mobo. I think you need a windows XP install disk.

RaydudeTry out data recovery software may be it will help you out to solve your problem.I have used Stellar Phoenix data recovery software to recover my data.It's demo is very easy to use and provides good recovery solution.You can check this software by downloading the free demo from the site
http://www.stellarinfo.com/the hard drive was pointed to by your original error- with NTFS.SYS is the file system driver ...


unsure why NOBODY noticed that and wondered out loud. Well- except me.