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Hello. I recently bought a new Pent 4 machine with 4 USB Ports, 2 at the back and 2 just infron of the computer.(CPU).


What woories me is that , the 2 behind the computer are functional whist the otherr 2 in front are not.
After opening my case i discovered that some cables from those 2 ports are loose, but my problem is how and where to plug them

thank you. there should be sets of (9 or 7.. im not sure) upright pins on your mobo that they attach too. i attached MINE wrong and none of my front ports work either..

so make sure you read your mobo manual, to fine which are the right pins, also it should be written next to the pins what there forpanboy, does anyone actually get a mobo manual with a new computer, especially if it's a major brand? As far as I know, they do not.

tnyamutenha, if you do not have a mobo manual, but you know the brand and model of your mobo, visit the manufacturer's website and LOOK for a downloadable manual or online info about such details for your mobo.

If you don't know the brand and model of your mobo, download Belarc Advisor and run to get a report on your system.I Wouldn't be Very Happy if i GOT no manuals with my HARDWARE, Regardless of source, all the Dell's Ive Ever used Came with Manuals on the Computer, that covered all the Hardware. Maybe Dell Europe is Different than Dell US.I buy a lot of Dells, and I can confidently say that not one of them has ever come with a manual for the motherboard...And all manuals are available online and easy to find!

A 802.11g PCMCIA adapter should work with pretty much any wireless system out there, apart from the really esoteric ones. Go for a brand name adapter for a better experience...

Hey, I was looking into buying a new processor.....i was wondering what kind of stuff do i need to know before buying one? A Friend told me you have to check your motherboard or something.....Cause you know how for a video card, you have to get a AGP or PCI to fit in your slot. How do you figure what type of brand you need to fit in the slot for a processor?

P.S Heres My Computer SPECS:

Intel Pentium 4 Processor 2.0GHz
1.5GB PC2100DDR Total Memory
60 HDD
16X MAX DVD_ROM Drive
40X Max CD_RW Drive
XFX GeForce 6800 Xtreme 350MHZ 256MB 256BIT 1000MHZ GDDR3 AGP Dual DVI TV Out Video Card
56k V.90 Modem
Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition


Also I Hope you Understand what im trying to ASK. cause im not sure what type of processor i need.....there is a lot of different ones out there, for ex:

AM2
LGA771
LGA775
LGA775 BTX
MICRO-S478
S478
S479
S603
S604
S754
S939
S940
Socket A

------------------------------------------------------------------

PLEASE HELP ME!! You put everything there except what motherboard you have. That is the sole deciding factor on what processor you can use.

If unsure, download and run the free Belarc Advisor to find your motherboard make and model.

www.belarc.com

Since you have a P4 on there you can rule out anything made by AMD on that BOARD.Thanks That program really help THX. This may be a stupid question , but....Is Motherboard the same as Main Circiut Board?? Cause this is what is said for Main Circuit board:

Board: Compaq 0804h
Serial Number: 3D2ALBJRG0XY
Bus Clock: 400 megahertz
BIOS: Compaq 686O2 v2.14 08/15/2002If you have a Compaq, think "non-upgradeable". I wouldn't even entertain that notion. The stock power supply is barely adequate for what you have on there. Just enjoy it for what it is.

ANY processor upgrade should be ASKED of Compaq first. I'm sure their answer will be "non-supported" or something along thoses lines. You can make an expensive decision and buy something that doesn't work, or runs into other system bottlenecks.

hi guys i am in NEED of some serious help i DONT know what to do.
i have aqquired a compaq presario s6289uk computer from a friend
the hard drive went down so now i have it
it is 2 years old with a 2.6ghz p4 and previously ran Xp when trying to install Xp it freezes on the FORMAT screen. so i formatted on another pc to bypass this operation then when it has copied the files needed for setup and reboots it says disk read ERROR i have tried this with several drives but still the same result??
when i inserted a drive with xp preloaded it goes to the start noramlly / last known good screen. if i select either it just restarts i am officially puzzeled
please please helpmuch appreciated
cheers matt
When you say "it freezes on the format screen" - how long did you leave it? Because formatting can take a long time (hours, even) on some hard drives. Did you remove the existing partition first? (That would be a good idea.)Hi rob THANKS for the tips i now have it up and running it i tried hard drive diagnostics and found that it had a problem right at the end on 99% on another pc so installed fine on another drive and all is well at the moment but i am using the other as a slave will this be ok
cheers simshi
You might get away with it. One caveat: you are putting your data at risk, placing files on a suspect hard drive. Take regular backups.

just wanted to know if connecting the max no. of IDE devices(4) in my case would slow down the overall access speed and performance of my system....?

got a SATA HDD
a cd-rom,combo drive,dvd-writer and an IDE HDD>..

any ideas for the best combination for master and slave??

it should not slow down your computer at all by adding more IDE devices. as for master and slave combinations, it really doesnt matter, whatever floats your BOAT. thanks homer...but in my pc i got now,i have my HDD and cd-rom put on the PRIMARY master and slave...and the combo drive on a individual cable as the secondary master..

whenever i copy data from a cd to the HDD,the time taken by the cd-rom drive is much much more when compared to the time taken when i copy the same data from the combo drive...both are 52x DRIVES..why is this then??I'm assuming the power supply is up to all of this.

Try the Primary hard drive on IDE 1 Master and the most used ROM device (the combo drive?) on IDE2 master. Your transfer rate should be better. do you have DMA mode on/u mean the power supply affetcs the data tranfer speed??? i gotta 300W power supply...I mean the power supply can affect the proper functioning of the computer. Is 300w enough for 6 hard drives and the other components? Here's an estimator:

http://journeysystems.com/power_supply_calculator.phpKarthic:

GX1's advice is sound, as the CD-ROM drive will slow down the hard drive connected to it as a slave. You might consider using the hard drive connected to the same controller as the optical drive for backups or STORING files you will not use often.

Doccool

Hey, I'm KINDA new at this kind of stuff. I've been having a LOT of problems with a PC lately. I'm running Windows XP on a Dell Dimension Desktop. I was having trouble with my mouse and various other problems. I just recently reformatted my harddrive and now a lot of things are not working. For starters, I have a dual screen set up, but now only my second screen is working, my main screen is recognized in Windows, but it won't turn on. I've checked all the connections, and still nothing. Also, my mouse ps/2 port does not work. I can use the mouse, but only if it is PLUGGED in via USB. AND, my speakers are not recognized in Windows. I have also checked all the connections, as well as all the power cords, everything is plugged in, Windows simply states that there is no Audio Device attached. And, lastly, it does not recognize the ethernet/network port. I have a cable plugged in, the light is on, the router is on, and the cable modem is on. Windows tells me that there is not a network attached. I really do not know why all these things are not working. I've checked AND rechecked all the cables and I've made sure to install all of the reinstallation disks, and still I get nothing. Is this a sign that maybe my motherboard has gone out and I need to get a new one? If so, what are some good brands to go with? Thanks for any help, I'm a bit frustrated at this point!Well, that's quite a LIST. LOL Why did you have to throw all that into one paragraph? I suggest you edit it and make it more readable. You might actually use a bulleted format to create a list.

After you reformatted your hard drive, did you use the original system CD(s) that came with the computer to install both Windows and device drivers? Several of these issues could simply be due to drivers not being installed. If you're using the original monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc., the drivers for all those devices should be on the CD(s) that came with the computer.

To run dual monitors, did you install a second video card or what?

Are you sure you have the speakers plugged into the right connector? Sound cords usually have multiple connectors (line in, speaker, mic, etc.).

I did use the system install discs that came with the pc. I've been having issues with the mouse for awhile, and every mouse that gets put into the ps/2 port never works. I bought a new mouse and it uses a USB connection, and it works fine.

As for the rest of the drivers, everything has been installed as to what came with my computer. And for the dual monitors, I do have another video card, but the thing is THAT is the only monitor that works! My main monitor that uses the main port doesn't come on. I've even tried disconnecting the secondary video card, and still nothing. I have NO idea why it's not working!Have looked at Device Manager? How many problems do you see indicated there?I'm an idiot and haven't checked the Device Manager yet.

I do think there is something wrong with the ps/2 port though. Every mouse that gets plugged into it, including a regular Dell Mouse, that came with the pc, never works. The only way a mouse will work on my pc is if it used via USB like I have it.

As far as the monitor situation goes, what do I do about my main monitor? I don't have any disks for drivers since it is the monitor that came with my system. I'm quite perplexed as to why it's not working. All of my components were working just fine, with the exception of the mouse port, prior to me reformatting. So I'm guessing something has not loaded CORRECTLY? I'll check the Device Manager and let you know what I find out.

And thank you for all of your help!

Any ideas/recommendations of latest motherboards that can support AGP GRAPHIC card and dual core processor? thanks for the helpreita ...... There are certainly a lot out there to choose from , But I would be looking for a MOBO with a PCI Express vid slot instead of a AGP ....... it's the latest TECHNOLOGY .


dl65 i just BOUGHT a agp graphic card so i shd BUY a motherboard to accompany the graphic card i TINK if nt its a waste

Hi,
I have read & tried so much stuff on the following issues and now feel I really need some help.

Basically, I keep getting the
"Hardware Failure; replace failed component" error.

I get this error any time - playing games or just surfing.

I checked the event logs which only said "SYSTEM ERROR 1003"
I check my cpu temp which is always around 40c so ok.

After reading about possible causes I decided to check my ram. I USED some spare ram from another pc, swapped, paired, unpaired etc but still got the same issues.

I downloaded the latest drivers for my mobo, graphics card, & sound - No Joy

Next I decided to remove my graphics card & drivers to test with just the on-board graphics card. So updated the drivers.

It SEEMED to WORK for about half a day but then started crashing again with the same hardware error.

Next I tried changing the IDE cables - still the same. I have also made a full re-instal of XP.

Is it likely I have a CPU/MOBO/PSU problem? How can I test without replacing the individual compnents?

I KNOW this is long winded but Ive been trying to sort it for a couple of weeks now.

Thanks in advance.

PC Spec:

ASRock K7S41GX
512mb ddr ram (plus various 256 sticks)
AMD Athlon XP 2200
Seagate BARRACUDA hard drive
NEC dvdr
Power supply is an etech mpt-400
230v/400w max



I found a forum where some one else had a similar problem , they said it was his ram so try memtest86 you can download it here

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=1247As I said, I have eliminated RAM as an issue.Yes but you have not ruled out your Ram Slots, Try Memtest and just See what happens run it for about an hour or so.

So, I have a 17" LCD monitor that i've had for about a year, upon recieving it, i discovered TWO dead pixels, The warranty only covers 8 or more dead pixels, so they wouldn't do anything for me, so i assumed that i would have to live with this.

Recently, i have done some research and discovered, that according to several WEBSITES, i have "Stuck pixels" not "dead pixels" because dead pixels are stuck either black or white, but one of mine is Yellow, and the other Green.

This, according to my research, also means that these "stuck" pixels, are not permanent, and can be cured, allegedly through several different methods

I have been reluctant to try these, because all warn that they have the possibility of causing more of these Stuck pixels. and void most warrantys.

I was just wondering, if any of you have had similar experiences that you were able to fix through a safe/effective method.

So thanks in advance for all your help
(you guys are always awesome)

DoomsayerPersonally, I'd like to know what that resource meant by "stuck pixels". My experience has been if a pixel doesn't work, then it doesn't work and I (or the customer) just deals with it.

If you can afford to replace the monitor, then try their fixes. If not, then just leave it alone.

Alan <>< Well, that's what i thought, that's why i haven't done anything for the year i've had this monitor. but then when i was reading, several forums, and different websites like wikkihow (i realize this may not be authoritative) have stated that Dead pixels are, in fact black, and that if it is just stuck a certain color, it is "stuck" because "the liquid in the liquid crystal has not spread into each little pixel. This liquid is used with the backlight on your monitor, allowing different amounts of light through which give off different colors."

thanks for your input, i'm just wondering what everybody thinks on the SUBJECT. If you told us what the Cure was maybe we could make a risk Assessment [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]Fair Enough, Some possible solutions i have heard are as follows:

- 1. Turn off your computer's monitor.
2. Get yourself a damp cloth, so that you don't scratch your screen.
3. Apply pressure to the area where the stuck pixel is. Do not put pressure anywhere else, as this may make more stuck pixels.
4. While applying pressure, turn on your computer and screen.
5. Remove pressure and the stuck pixel should be gone. This works as the liquid in the liquid crystal has not spread into each little pixel. This liquid is used with the backlight on your monitor, allowing different amounts of light through, which creates the different colours.

- the use of the following programs: Link to dead pixel test.
http://www.gdargaud.net/Hack/DeadPixels.html

"Dead Pixel Buddy" http://www.laptopshowcase.co.uk/downloads.php?id=1

or a simple browser BASED solution similar to those programs

http://whackabrain.com/pixel/unstuck.html


they seem to rapidly change through a SERIES of colors, and are usually a few pixels tall and accross, or cover the whole screen, the success rates of the "massaging method" seem to be higher, howwever, the Rapidly changing color utilities, seem to be safer. in most cases. I Can understand how the Poking the monitor method might work, but you'd be Risking doing as much damage as you were Curring..

why don you go into a PC shop , and poke there monitors , see how easy it is to do damage be fore trying it on you own... The Display monitors in the shops are expected to be broken by the time the range is over anyway.. and then they got sold off Cheep

Don't tell any one i suggested this ok... its not like I'm saying this in public.

For Token Ring Hardware is Irrelevant ,

The only topology i know that would Fail if one computer Broke , is a Bus or a Closed Ring, Token Ring can Run On anything. Even a Ham sandwich...

Its Very Odd that a regular RJ45 you be So... Well Fastened into Place, mostly you just need to press down the Tab, unless its Not RJ45 At all!!Quote

For Token Ring Hardware is Irrelevant ,

The only topology i know that would Fail if one computer Broke , is a Bus

Have you ever come across an RJ45 TR LAN? Exactly. It's usually BNC or some other coaxial standard.

If you have Ever Used a large 64 port

i made it token Ring and Bing Network trough put Up 2000%

No i haven't Heard of a multi Drop Bus hows that Work?

Hey all, I have a quick question. I PURCHASED a PSU from New egg last week, and today I finally got ther est of my custom COMPUTER. I've been doing stuff for 3 hours now and When I go to turn the PSU on, it won't flip...!!! I swore I checked it before and it would, but is there a way to fix this? I've opened it up and seen if something was out of place, and if I turn it and press the fans and stuff start to COME on but just SHUT off... Please HELP!Is it properly connected to the motherboard? If not it probably won't turn on.I tried the other PSU I had in my other computer and that worked, but the Mobo is DOA, well part of it is at least. The panel slot (were you connect the front switches) doesn't generate any power. I took the front of the new case I had and tried the stuff with the old computer and it worked, so it's the mobo...SAD =( because I have to wait for another one...

Unless there is a way to turn on power without pressing the switches? lolQuote

Unless there is a way to turn on power without pressing the switches? lol

I tried to save a file to my jump drive from my IBM Thinkpad, but could not. I can read files already on the drive (via LAPTOP), and can add to them via my desktop, but not from the laptop. The laptop has WIN 98. Is there a driver I am missing on my laptop? If so, where can I find it? :-?Try the manufacturer's website. I have PNY USB 2.0 Flash drive. PNY has a Win 98SE driver on their website. Other brands MAY do the same. Check it out.Win98 definitely needs a driver. Later Windows do not usually.

I'm really hoping someone can help me here; I've done everything I can think of, but I think my poor computer is just too far GONE to save...

I was experiencing extremely slow load times, yada yada yada, long story short, virus. So, after about 6 HOURS of debugging, I've deleted some 7000 infected files, some manually, some through a virus checker... There's still some CONTAMINATION, but I can't get rid of it. -_-

Well, it seems that along the way, 1 of those 7000 files happened to be the ONE telling my computer that it had a sound card. Sound is the most important use for my computer; I've got an amp and speakers hooked up to it and everything, but I digress. I had thought originally that it was just a problem with the drivers, so I downloaded some new ones (Creative Labs CT4780) and ran them, but the driver installation is telling me "Setup could not detect any Sound Blaster card on your system. Please make sure one is installed and run setup again."
I figured maybe I downloaded the wrong drivers, but Control Panel > Sound tells me "No Audio Device". The card is firmly plugged into the computer and has been since I started this whole gauntlet.
Well, I go to Control Panel > Add/Remove Hardware, and it won't run. Like, I double-click on the icon (or right-click > Open), the hourglass cursor shows up for just a second, then goes away, aaaand... Nothing.

I'm completely out of ideas, here. Can anyone help me?See if anythinmg is listed under Control Panel/SYstem for sound. If so, delete it and reboot the machine. Does this help?

If not choose add and remove hardware and tell it is looking for a sound card. THen choose Have Disk and pont to the location of the appropriate sound driver files. WHat happens now after a reboot?

Do you have a real WIndows CD to reload if needed?As for the Cntl>System, I'm pretty sure I'm not seeing anything. (But I could be blind...)
Add Hardware doesn't work. When I double click on it, it doesn't do anything. The hourglass cursor flashes, and then nothing.

For the sake of giving as much info as possible, I had to screw around with msconfig during the debug process, however I only altered the 'services' and 'startup' sections.

I don't have a real Windows CD. However, a system restore was taken before most of the files were deleted, so if absolutely necessary, I can run that. (Although I really don't want to, since it was taken like... An hour into the 6-hour process.)You MAY be too FUBAR'ed to resolve it any other way. It would certainly be quicker. As a last resort, pull the soundcard from the computer & reboot without it. Then power it down, reinsert the card & reboot again. It might see it. Also, if it doesn't, power down, put the card in a different slot and reboot.

Alan <>< Quote

I had to screw around with msconfig during the debug process, however I only altered the 'services' and 'startup' sections.

Alright, so I will admit first, that I am an idiot. I really did create my own problem. I'm sorry to bother everyone with trying to fix it.

I bought a new Compaq computer. They don't include CD's anymore to restore, they put it on 10 gigs of my hard drive which made me crazy. I took a brand new WINDOWS disk, put it in, and went to reformat (I hate all the crap they include with their computers) I noticed that I had the option to delete the "D" drive (The recovery drive) so I did, thinking that it would add the 10 gigs to my "C" drive... well... it didn't. Now that drive and the space is missing. Does anyone KNOW how to recover it?Wow, first off, i wanna say, That was extremly stupid....i dont know alot about computers, but i would take back to the dealership and ask them for help. You said you just bought it right? well all new computers have a warenty....show them the warenty, and get a new computer ........but hey thats just my opinion, or you could wait untill a smarter person replys to your questionMight be a good idea not to make derogatory references to other posters' actions.

If you really want just the one drive using all the hard drive space, you need to repartition. During the Windows install process, you would need to delete BOTH partitions, then create a new single partition in all of the available space. Yes, this would wipe out all of your data.

If you have no recovery disks, you will not be able to install any of Compaq's bespoke drivers or the additional software they may have included with the computer. You should go to the SUPPORT section of their website and see what is available for download - especially drivers. If you can get everything working this way and don't need all the "bonus" software, you can CONTINUE on your way.

I must confess that I would find 10GB a little excessive, too. Unless it were in the CONTEXT, say, of an 800GB hard drive...Mr Sk8Punk, I now don't like you.

As for the Loss of 10Gig's to Recovery Programs , i would also have Deleted it, But i would have made sure to burn a copy of its contents first. At Least backed up the Contained Drivers

I hate that Recovery Method , what if your HDD Breaks ? or your FAT table gets infected? then you do not have copy of windows to put on a new Disk , and your Quite BonedThanks for the good suggestions! (Minus the first guy )

I'll try it out and (hopefully) get back to you!Rob, thanks a ton. That was easy... I don't know why I never thought of it. I appreciate your help.No problem. Glad you're sorted. Come back if you have any other questions.

I have had a Netgear WG111 wireless card for about a year now, and until recently it has worked FINE. Just the other day, though, I stopped being able to access the internet. It still tells me that I'm connected in the notification area, whether I'm using the Netgear connection utility or the Windows XP connection utility. I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling the driver a hundred times, as well as using the "Repair" connection command. I haven't been able to try another server yet, but I'm going to take my laptop to the public library TOMORROW and try it there. My laptop is an HP Pavilion zt1170. 512MB RAM, 60GB Hard Drive. Windows XP Home. The wireless card is a WG111, SERIAL number WG72.Please report back on your findings. Then we can try diagnosing the problem.Had the same problem with my wireless network mate, although it was not netgear sounds like the same thing, i had to get a newer version of firmware.

dont upgrade your firmware via a wirless connection you have to be wired in to upgrade or you could risk messing things up even more

ianWell, I tried the wireless card at the library and it didn't work. Then I tried another USB port and it worked for a short while, and then it stopped again. It still lit up and showed me being connected, but none of my internet applications were able to connect.

I have to admit, I haven't exactly been gentle with my laptop in the years that I have had it and I wouldn't be too surprised if the USB ports or something connecting them is broken. But I have tried all of the USB ports with my thumb disk and my USB mouse, and both work fine in all of the ports. I tried another wireless adapter and it only worked in the same port I plugged mine into today when it worked. Though the other adapter had better results. I will have to test it more thoroughly today and maybe dismantle my computer to look for any obvious damage.

If anybody has any other advice I would be much appreciative.Well, I've got it figured out, and thankfully my USB ports are all in working condition. I tried my wireless card in another computer and it came up with the same problem. The wireless utility tells me I'm connected yet I can't load a page. Looks like the card is toast. I gave a friend's card another shot in my computer and I found it to work in all ports.

Netgear support has been useless. "Did you try reinstalling the driver?" "Yes, that didn't fix the problem." "Try using windows wireless configuration instead of the netgear program." "That doesn't help either." "Try reinstalling the driver." Um...yeah, I think I'll try taking my money somewhere else. Though, I realize tech support is probably just as bad anywhere. My thanks go out to the wonderful Netgear support staff who assembled in order to solve my problem: Meenakshi, Manas, Sumit, Debika and Daljeet.

Anyway, though I didn't get too much of a response here on this particular problem, it has been very helpful having a forum for sorting out my thoughts.

Thanks!Glad you managed to get it sorted, and thanks for reporting back. Have you tried an alternative wireless card yet?

So... you've enountered the delights of the Dehli call centre?! :-/Quote

My thanks go out to the wonderful Netgear support staff who assembled in order to solve my problem: Meenakshi, Manas, Sumit, Debika and Daljeet.

Anyway, though I didn't get too much of a response here on this particular problem, it has been very helpful having a forum for sorting out my thoughts.

something I have been seriously fantasizing about

Phoenix Technologies BIOS A23 on a Dell Inspiron 4000 laptop. There is no option in this BIOS to reset to defaults or to remove an item in the boot order. The item in question is "Cardbus NIC". I have disabled it but I want to also delete this item completely from the boot order. Is there any way to do that? Is it possible to replace this BIOS with a different BIOS? (I flashed it with a downloaded A23 version from Dell support site but nothing changed. FYI: The version on Dell site is the latest one I've found and it's dated 2002.)i do believe the BIOS detects ALL devices plugged into your computer. i assume when you remove the NIC card, the item will be gone from the BIOS.You can't delete it. Why do you want to? You have it disabled, so what's the problem?

Does Dell have any more recent BIOS updates? Any that do not have that boot option in the BIOS? I doubt it.
You cannot delete it in the Dell BIOS, but disabling in the boot order should be sufficient.

An updated Dell BIOS is the only option. You cannot use something else.Thank you, one and all, for your insights. To answer your questions:

(To homer) The NIC card was bent while in the PC card slot (the laptop had been jammed into an overhead bin on an airplane without being in its case -- I didn't do it). But, what I did do was to pull out the card later and throw it away. PROBABLY a big mistake but too late now. From everything I am looking at in Device Manager (more on that later) and from other aspects, it would appear to me that Windows "thinks" this damaged card is still in place;

(To soybean) The problem (EVEN though Cardbus NIC is disabled in BIOS in the boot order) is this: (see reply to homer, above) The NIC card drivers appear in Device Manager under Network Adapter in this way: (3 entries) US Robotics 10/100 PCMCIA NIC TX - Packet Scheduler Miniport, US Robotics 10/100 PCMCIA NIC TX #2 - Packet Scheduler Miniport, and US Robotics 10/100 PCMCIA NIC TX #3 - Packet Scheduler Miniport. Clicking on "Uninstall [the driver]" on each of these entries brings up the following on-screen msg: "Cannnot uninstall ... This device may be needed to boot this computer."

Yes, I have also disabled these 3 entries in Device Manager but I would like to also uninstall them. However, these entries are clearly LINKED to the Cardbus NIC listing in the BIOS.

"Why do you want to?" (soybean's question referring to my original QUERY to remove Cardbus NIC from the BIO boot order). Because I am beginning to suspect that what I outlined above is all tied in with the following problem: Numerous attempts to install a new Belkin USB 2.0 Notebook Card on this laptop fail. The card is not recognized when placed in either of the Type II PC slots (one of which used to hold the NIC card that I threw away - dumb me, I know). The card is not recognized in Device Manager. Etc, etc.

And, why do I want to install a USB 2.0 Notebook Card? Because I am using a Linksys Wireless USB network adapter on the only USB port that is integral to this laptop, and it is a 1.1 port. I had the brilliant idea to want to use it in a USB 2.0 port, which can only be accomplished by activating the USB 2.0 Notebook Card. And, to complete this dilemma, let it be noted that the only reason I am using the Linksys USB adapter is because of the Cardbus NIC problem.

FYI: The two PCMCIA slots appear in Device Manager as working properly.

(To GX1_Man) Thank you, and please see above.

(To all who took the time to help me here) I have explored this problem in Microsoft support articles, have looked at the issues having to do with QoS Packet Scheduluers, and have emailed with Belkin support and US Robotics support. Am also considering formatting the hard drive and starting clean (always a last resort, THUS not there yet). Am also considering buying the PC slot cage on-line (not expensive), opening up the laptop (a dreaded prospect) and replacing the PC slots. None of this am I doing in a hurry because the laptop is not my main computer by any means. We use it on trips for the Internet connection/email only. I have no valuable data on it; I have all original installation CDs for every application and the OS. So I'm in good shape to track down the solutions slowly.)

HI I need help INSTALLING a replacement screen for my sony vaio v505 dx. My problem is that when I was uninstalling the cracked old lcd, I ripped out two wires and I cant recall where they belong. The best i could do to describe them is that they are attached to a peice that goes behind the lcd. two carmel colored electronic tabs that are taped to the back of the lcd. One wire is black and the other GREY. Please help.
Sincerely,
LESLIE Quote

HI I need help installing a replacement screen for my sony vaio v505 dx. My problem is that when I was uninstalling the cracked old lcd, I ripped out two wires and I cant recall where they belong. The best i could do to describe them is that they are attached to a peice that goes behind the lcd. two carmel colored electronic tabs that are taped to the back of the lcd. One wire is black and the other grey. Please help.
Sincerely,
Leslie

Hi, i was wondering whether someone could help me. My father recently bought me a mp4 PLAYER from Hong Kong but was given the wrong usb cable with it. I have looked AROUND everywhere for information and have come up with nothing. So im hoping you guys could help. I have attached a picture but it is not so clear but its the best picture i can get at the moment. CHEERS guys thanks
Kyled01Is that an Uxcell, by chance?looks like the mini usb connection THING common amongst mp3 players and other small usb devices (my calculator has one). the cable has one normal usb connection on one end for your comp and then the other end has the mini connection. just google mini usb. if that's not it then i have no clue.Check with your local Radio Shack or cyberguys.com

They have everything!

Hi. Recently, whenever I have tried to simply save a document from Word to a cd or dvd by going to 'file' - 'save as' and choosing my "d" drive (cd/dvd rom drive) from the drop-down list, I am told I cannot as I don't have "admininstrative priviliges." (A couple of times I was told there was a format problem when it was with a DISC I had used before.) I have tried many different brands of media and each with a cd-r, cd-rw, dvd+r, and dvd+rw. I had a Dell Dimension 4300, but I put a Khypermedia '+ format' dvd burner in it 2 years ago. I can burn to the discs okay. People have told me that I cannot "save as" to a disc, but I used to ROUTINELY, and recently did it on a family member's Dimension 4400. I am the sole user of my computer and am listed as having administrative privileges. It was far easier to just "save" to a disc. Anyone have any clues? Thanks, much. -stevebWhat burning software are you using. You need inCD or something similar to use a rewritable disk as a big floppy disk.Hi. Thanks for the reply. When I burned the Word (data) documents to the disc, I would just use the software I have for music PURPOSES but also does data, i.e., EITHER Sonic or Nero (usually Sonic as whatever version of Nero I have has known problems with XP sometimes). I never used InCD or anything else (that I know of) when I used the CD in the well-phrased manner you said: like a big floppy. By the way, when I "save as" from Word to a floppy it works fine, still. It's how I used to do it with CDs.Sometimes a simple UNINSTALL and reinstall of the software can solve problems, especially if it previously used to work in the manner you described. Let us know. We'll keep the light on. Typically I would have tried that, but given that this burner has been a bit iffy in a variety of ways I thought perhpas before going into both the software and the hardware (frankly, I'd probably be best to just boot the darn burner) that maybe I was missing something about admin privileges. I doubt I'll be able to do it for a bit as I'm so swamped with work, but I'll let you know if I have any luck. Hope you don't pay too much in electricity. Thanks for the try. Peace. -steveWell, no software can fix bad hardware. Luckily they are relatively inexpensive.

Hi there. I am having problems with DRIVERS on my comp, so I am going to run a system restore tonight to try to rectify the problems.

The problem is when I plug the camera into the comp via USB. When I switch the camera on, nothing happens and an error message appears in device manager saying something like the drivers are missing. Then when it asks if I want the comp to locate a driver, I get a message asking for me to insert disk labelled Windows Millenium Edition into the A drive.

I thought it was maybe the camera which was faulty, but when I plugged in a card reader instead, the same message appeared.

Unfortunately the disc that came with the camera has been lost and the Olympus Website doesnt have the drivers for the camera. Its an Olumpus C-150

I'm guessing the problem is in the comp somewhere, so I am going to try a system restore, but if anyone has any ideas before I do this, please let me know before I wipe everything.

ThanksI would email Olympus about this. If your email reaches a KIND soul in technical SUPPORT, they'll probably email the necessary drivers to you. If they do, make several copies!!! (Or buy a new camera...)Thanks Rob. I'll try emailing them.If you find the email approach unproductive, take a look at http://www.dpreview.com/news/0303/03030209olympusd390.asp. It indicates the C-150 is the equivalent of the D-390 in North America. And downloads for the D-390 are available from http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_downloads.asp?id=2Are your USB ports even working, for anything else you plug in?
I don't think (not sure) ME came with USB drivers.I think ME was the first to use that (well) for digital cameras. That was ONE of it's selling points.

I've tried almost all of the options I can find with this problem and I'm really getting frustrated.

Basically, my computer is unreliable starting from having no power on. Fans turn, lights turn on, thermometer turns on, but the moniter stays black -- the moniter power button turns green for a second then GOES back to the usual "sleep" amber color. This has been happening occasionly ever since I got the PC 2.5 years ago. To remedy it I would usually just turn off the computer at the power source and try again to start it (sometimes upwards of 20 times) but I never found a reliable solution to MAKE it work. Usually I'd just end up frustrated and give up, come back sometime later and have it work correctly.

Today I decided to add some more RAM to my PC augmenting my 2 256MB sticks with 1 512MB stick. I installed the 512MB stick, above situation happened. I moved some RAM trying it in different slots with no luck. Finally I tried doing one stick at a time in the slot closest to the processor to see if maybe the RAM was defective. I got 3 beeps when I tried booting and still no screen activity for each stick -- on RAM that was working just minutes before. Finally I got it to start after an hour of fiddling around with it and much to my annoyance I still only had 512MB RAM despite the 512MB stick being in the computer. So I turned it off and tried seeing if I put it in wrong or something and now I'm faced with the same no moniter information but the computer is on.

System:
True Blue 480 Watt power supply
Intel D875PBZLK Motherboard
Pentium 4 3.0 GHz processor
nVidia Geforce FX 5900 Ultra video card
120GB Western Digital WD1200JB 7200 RPM ATA/100, 8MB cache hard drive

Any help would be greatly appreciated.It is probably not bad RAM if it is new so let's don't start there. Go to www.crucial.com and see what memory you needed and compare carefully to what you got, The speed alone is not sufficient. Other specifics on your motherboard possibilities will be shown as well.

There may also be compatibility issues with the existing RAM. Try the one new stick by itself and see what happens. Some boards do better if the largest RAM stick is placed nearest the processor in slot 0.

The fact that you had previous issues as well confuses the issue further.
I've been trying the RAM in different slots and all 4 sticks of my RAM have been setting off the beeps when in the first slot, but when I put one alone in the 3rd slot, the computer starts as it usually does with no moniter. I'll FIDDLE around with it some more and see what I can come up with.

I'd love to run the crucial memory test but I can't even boot my computer to do it :-?What about when you put the RAM in EXACTLY as it was before this manipulation started?Finally after messing around with it I got exactly one stick which when put in the first slot allows it to boot. Any of the other 3 causes beeping. Right now the slots look like this [256][empty] [256][empty]. When I try and put the 512RAM in anywhere in this set up it doesn't beep or anything the moniter just stays black.
The Intel site says:

Four 184-pin DDR SDRAM DIMM sockets
Support for DDR 400 and DDR 333
Support for up to 4 GB system memory

www.crucial.com says:

http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.asp?Mfr%2BProductline=Intel%2B+Motherboards&mfr=Intel&tabid=AM&model=D875PBZ&submit=Go

What do you have EXACTLY?

Are you mixing ECC and non-ECC?

Did you run Memtest on each stick individually? (www.memtest86.com)

Is there debris in the slots?

Okay, here's my QUESTION. I have a wireless router with four network ports on the back. I only use the wireless for a lap top and the DESKTOP machines are hardwired in. Now I recently added two computers to my collection but I only have four ports on the router. I have an old netgear four port hub that I was hoping might work with the router to connect all six computers to the network.

Instead of me writing a confusing book here I put together a simple diagram of what I was thinking of doing. If someone could have a look and let me know if it would work or not I'd appreciate it. http://www.terminus.co.nr/~osiris/misc/network.txt

Also there is a switch on the hub that says "normal" or "UPLINK", what should that be set on and what do those settings actually mean?

Thanks for any help Ok the Uplink port First.

On old Hubs they could not Switch The DATA Cables automaticly. when you use a Hub All Data that Comes in is sent out on ALL the Send ports, But if you connect to hub's Together you'll have the Send WIRES connected i mean by that is one hub will send data , on the Wire the other hub is also sending on.. that wont work .

So they made the uplink switch that swaps over the Send wire and Receive wire. so that you can Connect 2 hubs.

New Switches Auto Swap , so you wont really have to Worry about that.

As for how you want to Set up the Network, it should work Perfic ^.^What make and model router do you have? Here's some info from D-Link: Can I connect a hub or switch to my D-Link router to add more computers?Okay, thanks much for the info guys. I hooked it up and it seems to be working just fine

hello,
Im a newb so bare with me please. I have been having a weird problem. When ever I look at pictures for awhile or play a game my screen will change to mixed static COLORS and then I wont be able to move the mouse and the screen goes black. Its not the monitor because I checked it with a different one. and it only happens when the times I said it did.
my specs are:
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3800+
video card : NVIDIA GeForce 6800 GT
Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP/2002 Professional
My power supply unit is antec performance true 550. 550w max
Im not sure what else to say. I did UPDATE my drivers a while back and then I tryed reloading the old ones to see if it was that but it doesnt seem to be the problem. I also updated my BIOS to see if that helped and it hasnt. :-?
ThanksIt may Be You GFX Card is over Heating.

The Big Cards can Get Pretty Hot even when your Not Doing much.(Mine was over Heating in my New Computer At Desktop, i had to Increase the Air flow in my Case)

Has it always Happened , or is it Just a Recent Event?..
Open up your Case and See if its Full of Dust, your fans may be a little Clogged up

It could be Worse Tho , i might be a Hardware Problem, but lets hope notTry unplugging and reseating the card first.

Make sure all fans are spinning. You may want to test the heat theory by taking the side cover off and blowing a FAN directly in there. Game away for an hour or two and see what happens.

Is the card a new addition? How long has this been happening?I tryed blowing out the fan and there was a lot of dust and even a big peice of dust came out but didnt fix the problem. I have had the video card since I first built the computer like summer of 04. the problem started about a month and a half ago. I checked my video card fan and it is spinning. I have 3 fans on the top of my computer and two in the back. also the cpu is water cold. all fans spin. the temp on my cpu never gets higher then about 100F it stays around 80s. so when you say unplug the video card you want me to take it out of the motherboard and unplug the wires to it? I also tryed removing one of my two rams(512mb each) and see if that was the problem and the tryed the next one and still the same problem. also you say try gaming for a hour lol it sucks Ill go in to oblivion and right when it loads my save it does this. :-?Quote

so when you say unplug the video card you want me to take it out of the motherboard and unplug the wires to it?

You may want to test the heat theory by taking the side cover off and blowing a fan directly in there.

I have a question. I have 768 mb of PC800 RAMBUS. Which would be better. 2GIG of DDR 3200 or the 768 of RAMBUSThey won't fit in the same motherboard, so what is the remainder of the equation? Where did you come up with this question?Yes I am aware of that. I was wondering which would get the better performance in a Socket 478 p2.2 with a FSB of 533. Would the extra 133 MHz make a difference?What is the motherboard make and model? Again, the motherboard determines the type of memory used, and only one of those will be an option. That will make the decision a lot easier. i was just wondering because i was going to ebay for a mother board and was deciding which way to go. Ive got the rambus and hate not to use it if it would be better.I don't know that it would be better, but since you already have it, it would save a few dollars. You know that it has to be installed in matched PAIRS?

It was always very expensive, and you might be able to SELL it on eBay for someone who needs it which would pay for the other and maybe some change. Check the prices there. yes i have already and i think I could sell it for around 120$ total which would be enough for a new MB and memory alone. A computer store near me has 1 gig sticks of pc3200 fo 40 dollars after REBATE, Ultra brand That sounds like a GOOD plan.

When I try to scan using Photoshop CS2, I get an error message which says[Generic Error]. I have a Plustek ST64+ SCANNER. When I click and close the error box, I then will click on prescan or scan and the scanning software will freeze up. I have uninstalled the scanner and its scanning software and then reinstall and I get the same error message[ Generic Error]. The scanner is installed because it is in the Device Manager and it shows it is WORKING. I hope someone can help me resolve this PROBLEM. My PC specs are below.

Windows XP Pro SP2
Proccessor: 2.6 GHz
Ram: 1 gig
Hard drive: 160 Gig

Have a Kyocera KM 5035 Printer/Copier/Scanner combo. OCCASIONALLY the printer has a message to replace excess toner box. I do this...question is what to do with the box?? Is it safe to trash or is there some place that recycles the STUFF. thanxOffice Depot, Staples, etc. love to recycle old ink cartridges, so I bet they would welcome this too.Also, many charities are LINKED with toner recycling schemes. A COMPANY collects the toner cartridges, recycles them, and donates some of the profits back to the charities concerned.

I have received some advice on the Windows FORUM, but am now at the stage where, due to my PC switching itself off whenever it feels like it, I have tried to use the recovery disc to GO back to factory settings.

However, even during this process the PC will just switch off. It has to be left for half an hour before I can use it again. The only thing I can think of is that I'll have to contact someone to REPAIR it, but my question is: could a power surge have caused any damage? The problem did start within an hour of an electrical storm.

Would there be any obvious signs of it having been struck?

Also, what will need to be done to repair it if the recovery disc can't be used? What will need to be replaced? I use Windows ME.

Thank you. :-/If it is the power supply itself, which is likely due to the proximity of the surge you report and the symptom, a simple replacement will fix it.

What is the make/model of the PC and the make/wattage of the PSU (it will be printed on the power supply itself)?Quote

If it is the power supply itself, which is likely due to the proximity of the surge you report and the symptom, a simple replacement will fix it.

What is the make/model of the PC and the make/wattage of the PSU (it will be printed on the power supply itself)?

What is the difference between x64 and 64-bit ItaniumYou NEED to PRESS that Google button. Look what I FOUND in less than 2 seconds.

http://blogs.msdn.com/gauravseth/archive/2006/03/01/541288.aspx


<---------------------

Here's the REST:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=itanium+vs+x64Read all about it!

>x64<
>Itanium<

While the COMPUTER loads it will only show a image on the monitor EVERY 15SECONDS? ive unpluged everything and re fitted, i CANT find the problem. please help??Aussiedemon....How about some details .......you have given us nothing ?


dl65

My computer is fairly old: Pentium II, 333Mhz, Windows 98, with 64Mb of RAM. It can handle 384Mb SDRAM total.

Anyway, I've never upgraded the RAM on any of the computers I've owned, so this is new territory for me. My question is: will there be a noticeable increase in the overall performance of my PC if I were to upgrade the RAM to 384Mb from 64Mb? ...Or should I just save up and buy a better PC? :-/ (I really only use this one for word processing and access to the internet, not much else)If you have BROADBAND access RATHER than DIALUP that one should do just fine.

If you are upgrading RAM you should be careful to get the correct RAM for it. Just the rights speed is not enough. If that is a 333, then it will need PC66 RAM, although PC100 can be used. Frequently older machines require low density RAM, which is not being produced much anymore, so going to Best Buy, et. would probably cause problems. eBay would be economical IF you get the right thing or a major supplier.

www.crucial.com can tell you a lot about what you need. THeir prices are not cheap, but reasonable and they OFFER fast shipping, a lifetime waranty and guaranteed compatibility. They have a configurator which will tell you EXACTLY what you need, if you choose to shop elsewhere. Some motherboards are limited to the size of RAM chips and how much can added total.

If you are getting a lot of RAM, for a little more you could get a newer system that will last a little longer, be noticably faster, and be supported. Microsoft dropped support for Win98 this month. That does not mean it will not run (it will, and exactly like it used to), just that no new security updates will be available.

New low end machines can be had for $300 or so after rebate or on SALE with 512 RAM, new compomnents, Windows XP, larger hard drives, etc. You obviously don't need a state of the art Dual Core, 2 gig RAM machine for your usual activities.

So if you can post your computer make/model I can advise further.

Hi EVERYBODY!!

I m using one keyboard of Logitech, When we don't work on PC till 20~30 minutes, Keyboard's all three LIGHT is blinking or keyboard's key not working.

Thanks.It may well be TIME for a new keyboard. Luckily they are quite inexpensive. Have you TRIED another? Is it PS/2, USB or wireless?

I am using a netvista IBM pc configuration as follows.

NetVista personal computer 6792-11A
Operating system: Windows XP

Original DESCRIPTION: Intel Pentium 4 1.6GHz (256KB), 128MB, 40GB 7200RPM IDE HDD, PCI Desktop (4x4), nVidia Vanta 16MB 4X AGP, 48x CD-ROM, Intel 10/100 Ethernet, Windows 2000

It has four USB ports. Now when i connect any flash DRIVE or an external Hard drive a information pop up shows that this device can WORK faster if CONNECTED to a high speed device etc....click for information

My question is can i add a High speed controller to this computer and if so How should i go about doing does it require some additional Hardware or software?
Thanks and regardsYou need a PCI based USB 2.0 card, about $10. Here is an example:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16815106505

But there are MANY others which vary in price:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?N=2010010073&Submit=ENE&Subcategory=73&Description=usb+card&Ntk=all

They all work the same. Plug into PCI slot, load the drivers and get 2-4 extra USB 2.0 ports.Yeah, and Hi-Speed USB is 40 X faster than the older USB 1.1 standard, so it is worth the purchase!

http://www.answers.com/topic/universal-serial-bus

8-)see if your computer has usb drivers installed. If it does not check to see if you already have USB 2.0 by checkng your BIOS. If you do but the drivers are not installed download generic drivers and use themsome USB ports will still opperate if the drivers are not installed but they will only run at 1.0Newbie,

That was not the question however. The up to date peripheral is reporting that there are slow USB 1,1 ports and SUGGESTING using 2.0 to speed transfer. The USB 1.1 information is irrelevant.GX1Man, Pcdoc4christ,

Thanks for your good advice...as always i am indebted to so many of you for your help.. will follow your advice and report back to you thanks..
1974.
Sure appreciate your help and information....

THE SAINT.You're welcome and we'll leave the light on.....

Anyone know what the thermal grease type is for early slot 2 Xeon processors? Also where to purchase?
I have been "told" that the grease type is critical for the processors because of heat and large AREA of processor surface. THANKS in ADVANCE for any HELP! :-/Arctic Silver is the product i use...don't use your finger to APPLY it, read the instructions.

Quote

Just for info: If the monitor .INF file is corrupted or damaged, Windows may think that the monitor can't handle any other resolutions/modes. We know you've tried a different graphics card; have you also tried a different monitor?

Ultimately, it may take a reinstallation of Windows to fix this. A bit of a pain, alas.

What's the best way so that I can still retain the desktop, and the registry values?

Display:

Uninstall them All, Remove 2 from the Computer, and Install The Drivers for the one thats Left, Unless I'm Reading it wrong

Ultimately, it may take a reinstallation of Windows to fix this. A bit of a pain, alas.

You're ready to go.Obviously nothing else has helped.

What was the answer to the question about multiple video cards?

Hi. I have a Hewlett Packard Pavilion zt1771s laptop which I[ch8217]ve owned for four years and which seems to have a serious problem. A few days ago the screen went blank and the hard drive seemed to stop working (i.e. the hard drive activity LED stopped blinking) and there was nothing I could do to get it going again. Before this happened, I had made no changes to my system (e.g. installing new hardware / software etc.) and DONE nothing out of the ordinary. The problem occurred just after I[ch8217]d PRINTED something, but printing is not an unusual activity for my laptop.

Since then the computer has only booted up on about one in five attempts. If it does get as far as Windows (XP Home), it freezes after a couple of minutes: sometimes the screen freezes and neither the mouse nor the keyboard works, sometimes the screen just goes blank and, in both cases, the hard drive activity LED stops blinking. Most of the time, though, the computer doesn[ch8217]t even get as far as the very first screen (i.e. the HP splash screen where it says [ch8220]press ESC to change boot order[ch8221] etc.): when I press the power switch, the fan and the CD drive make an initial whirr but the hard drive doesn[ch8217]t get going and the screen doesn[ch8217]t come on. On one or two occasions (usually when I[ch8217]ve tried to boot into safe mode), the computer has emitted one long, loud beep in a continuous tone.

I first tried System Restore and then reinstalled the software, but to no avail (incidentally, the [ch8220]freezing[ch8221] problem recurred in safe mode and even happened a couple of times while I was reinstalling the software from the HP recovery CDs [ch8211] i.e. the computer crashed even when it was booting from the CD drive). The only time the computer works properly and does not crash is immediately after reinstalling the software (which I[ch8217]ve now done two or three times). As soon as I turn it off and try to reboot, however, I[ch8217]m back to the 4:1 chance that it won[ch8217]t work.

Early on, I got the message [ch8216]General failure reading from drive C[ch8217], which made me (and an engineer I spoke to on the phone) think that there was a problem with the hard drive. In addition, the HP DIAGNOSTICS programme (called [ch8220]e-diagtools[ch8221]) stopped working when it was testing the hard drive. Acting on this, I replaced the hard drive, but the same problem is still present.

I[ch8217]ve had a range of other error messages since the problem first occurred, none of which has appeared more than once. These include: (i) [ch8220]IRQL not less or equal[ch8221]; (ii) [ch8220]page fault in nonpaged area[ch8221]; (iii) [ch8220]the following file is missing or corrupt: \WINDOWS\SYSTEM 32\CONFIG\SYSTEM[ch8221]; (iv) [ch8220]the BIOS in this system is not fully ACPI compliant[ch8221]; (v) [ch8220]the problem seems to have been caused by win32k.sys[ch8221] (when this message appeared, much of the message text was misspelt, as though someone had substituted one or two letters in each word for different ones).

The only other major problem I[ch8217]ve had with this computer in the past is a heat-related one: excessive heat causes the connection between the keyboard and the motherboard to become loose, causing some of the keys to stop working. This problem recurs every few months and is solved either by pressing on the back of the laptop, which seems to reconnect the cable, or by opening the machine and manually plugging in the keyboard ribbon more firmly. Coincidentally, this problem with the keyboard had recurred just before the larger problem I have described in this posting. I[ch8217]m not sure whether the two are related but I have reseated the keyboard cable as usual and this has not solved the larger problem (while I was in there, I also reseated all the other cables I could see).

If anyone can tell me what the problem is (virus? BIOS problem? hardware fault? old age?) and tell me what I can do to fix it, I[ch8217]d be very grateful indeed. Since I[ch8217]m a computer dunce, I[ch8217]d also be grateful if any reply to this message could be in the simplest language possible.

Thank you very much (and apologies for such a long message, which doubtless uses many incorrect and non-technical terms). By the way, with my laptop down, I have only intermittent access to the internet, so, if you do take the time to reply to this posting, please don[ch8217]t be offended if I don[ch8217]t get back to you straightaway.


Some more information about the computer:
Model: Hewlett Packard Pavilion zt1171s, purchased 2002
Processor: Intel Mobile Pentium III-M 1.06GHz
Hard drive: (formerly) Toshiba MK2018GAP; (now) Seagate Momentus 40GB HD422
256MB SDRAM
Display controller: S3 Savage 4
Audio controller: VIA/Realtek ALC201 AC97 Codec
CD player controller: O2 OZ-163
LAN: Realtek RTL8100L
CardBus controller: ENE 1410

Windows XP Home
Microsoft Works Suite 2002
Avast antivirus
Zonealarm firewall
Spybot
The computer is used primarily for word-processing (Word 2002) and for the internet.

Should you need it, I[ch8217]ll be happy to supply further information about my system but, such is my ignorance, you might have to tell me precisely how to find it!
I believe it is a hardware fault, probably not servicable by the end user. It may be that a simple hard drive change would fix it, BUT if you do and that is not the problem you are out the cash for the hard drive AND you still have a non-working machine. As you have had other issues with it and it is a consumer model rather than a business class machine, I think you need to choose between professional repair or replacement.Could be bad memory or a bad CPU, ... I see you already replaced the hard drive.... or something wrong with the mainboard, which would be more expensive to replace on a laptop than buying a new laptop.

Wouldn't give up on it without testing the memory and CPU.

Bad memory will cause freezes and corrupt files on the hard drive. A computer with a bad memory chip can act VERY much like a computer with a bad hard drive. My bet is that you have a bad memory module. Just a hunch though...

I would normally recommend #1-TuffTEST which is software you can download on the internet for $10.00 that creates a bootable floppy disk that tests most of your computer's hardware. I'm guessing that laptops don't have floppy drives though? In that case, maybe someone else here can recommend a simple memory test with no floppy required. Maybe you could try some new memory from a store with a good return policy. If there is more than one module installed, you can remove one at a time to see if the problems cease. Any corrupt files on your hard drive will remain corrupt. You may need to reinstall Windows again to see any improvement.

Remember any test that stops functioning before giving a result, only means that SOMETHING is wrong with the computer and nothing more. You need a result to accurately diagnose any bad hardware.

If you get it working... Try putting a little wad of handi-tack on that loose ribbon cable (that gummy stuff you hang posters with that doesn't dry) over the cable / socket. Maybe clean the contacts a little.

Good luck!!!I would DLoad and burn to CD the Ultimate Boot CD which will contain all sorts of system testing programs on it including MemTest which will test the RAM...]

Let it run for at least 2 hours and any errors at all mean the RAM is bad.

But i also agree with Royphil...i wouldn't give up on it just yet.

patio. 8-)Thank you very much indeed for your replies, which were extremely helpful.

The suggestion that my computer might be suffering from a RAM problem proved close to the mark. I discovered that the 256MB of RAM that was supplied with my computer in fact came in two 128MB chips, one of which was attached to the motherboard whilst the other sat in an expansion port on the back of the laptop (a bit naughty, this: the literature that came with the computer promised me that there would be one chip of 256MB and that the expansion slot would be empty). Tests on both chips have detected no faults and the problem seems instead to lie with the expansion port: both chips work fine when attached to the motherboard but neither works when placed in the expansion slot. I[ch8217]ve been running the computer for a couple of days with one of the chips in the motherboard slot; it[ch8217]s a little slow, of course, but so far (fingers crossed) the problems I described when I submitted my original posting haven[ch8217]t recurred. I[ch8217]ll give it a few more days then look into buying a bigger RAM chip to sit in the motherboard slot.

Thank you very much again for your help, I[ch8217]m very grateful indeed: I'd almost given up hope on this computer and am delighted to have been able to resuscitate it.


In case anyone else lands on this page with a similar problem, they might be interested to look at the following pages, which I found useful:

First, an article on diagnosing RAM problems:

http://www.zdnet.com.au/reviews/hardware/components/soa/Tech_Guide_How_to_diagnose_faulty_RAM/0,39023397,39145020,00.htm

Second, the above article led me to the following page in Microsoft[ch8217]s ONLINE Crash Analysis site, which also has some helpful hints on RAM problems, and where I downloaded mtinst.exe, a free RAM-testing programme:

http://oca.microsoft.com/en/windiag.asp


Incidentally, if anyone who sees this page is suffering from the keyboard problem I described in my original posting, the following site DESCRIBES clearly how to fix it and includes pictures of the whole repair process:

http://schwinger.harvard.edu/~motl/hp-keyboard/index-classical.html
Thanx for stopping back and letting us know how it went...Quote

Early on, I got the message ‘General failure reading from drive C’, which made me (and an engineer I spoke to on the phone) think that there was a problem with the hard drive. In addition, the HP diagnostics programme (called “e-diagtools”) stopped working when it was testing the hard drive. [highlight]Acting on this, I replaced the hard drive, but the same problem is still present[/highlight].

does any one know what router i need for wireless networking. its a adsl?There are QUITE a few to choose from. I have a D-Link DI-524; I've had it for about 4 MONTHS and have had no PROBLEMS with it. I have not used the wireless part of it very much, just used it temporarily for a laptop. I have 3 computers connected to the router via CAT5 cables.

Here's a newegg.com page: Wireless Networking DevicesAny router from a name brand maker will work fine. Choose wireless if you will ever need that.It depends on your setup. You only want an ADSL Wireless Router if you're on broadband. How do you connect to the internet?Take a look at the LINKSYS routers. I am looking at them on their page now and there are several to choose from. I have always used linksys because your always guareteed GOOD quality with them. Linksys products are super user friendly as well.

I'm running a Toshiba laptop on XP with a Matshita DVD drive. My hard drive was almost full, so I bought a Maxtor One TOUCH III 300GB with both Firewire and USB 2.0 capability, which I am trying to install.

The software appears to have installed properly from the CD, but when I go to the next stage of plugging the drive in to one of my USB ports (I don't have firewire), it finds the USB hardware, the "Found New Hardware" window comes up, I click on "Install Hardware Automatically", the wizard churns away for a while, then says "The hardware was not installed because the wizard cannot find the NECESSARY software."

I have tried uninstalling everything and reinstalling. I have tried directing the wizard to the Drivers folder on the install CD. I tried copying the USB Drivers folder from the install CD on to my laptop and then directing the wizard to that. I've turned the laptop off and done all of these things again. I've searched the internet to see if I can download the driver from somewhere and couldn't find anything.

I'm no tech, but I've been using computers for years and know my way around most stuff. It's plugged in right, turned on, and I have all the right bits. I've searched this forum and other web sites (although perhaps not very efficiently as it's 2am and my brain hurts), but all the Maxtor and hard drive install related problems seem to be a few steps further down the install process from where I am...

Every review I read of the One Touch talked about how easy it was, and how you just plugged it in and it recognised the drive. This makes me think I am either doing something stupid, not seeing something obvious, or there is something wrong.

Can anyone help, please? Try it on a Different Computer

If it wont work , it may well be broken
Get a Replacement

But before that Check for the Driver on the Maxtor site


Thanks for your advice.

I spoke to Maxtor helpdesk, who were very HELPFUL, and confirmed it should PLUG and play. I took it and plugged it into a different computer. It didn't play. I took it back to the shop I bought it. They plugged it in and said "well, that doesn't work", and REPLACED it.

The new one works fine, so it was all easy.

most shop's wont give you hassle for out of box failures, except Dixon's, but then you demand consumer rights, get a cop if you have to and then they'll give you a full refund ^.^

I have an Hp Pavillion a1310n running Windows Media Center Edition. AMD 64 3700+ Processor 1GB RAM. It has a CD-r,-rw/DVD-r, +r, DL, Ram; Drive with Light Scribe. I have had the computer about 6 months and i got it at office depot. A few days ago i bought a Logitech wireless desktop, and i brought it home POWERED down my computer, plugged it in and turned it BACK on. I put in the driver/software cd for the keyboard and mouse and nothing happened. I put in a few other CD's and none of them would read. The drive just lights up and makes a clicking sound every 5 seconds or so. I can hear it start to spin it , and then it just stops and clicks. The drive will read all DVD media; movies, data, blank recordable. The drive will not however read any kind of CD. I have run PC doctor 5 and it can't read the CDs either. I have also tried updating the drivers via internet, but it SAYS they are up to date. I have no i dea what else to do PLEASE help me, ThanksHas this UNIT ever read CDs? Try an audio CD. Any good?

A unit should not fail after 6 months, so I would consider going back to the seller for assistance.I have not had any problems with so far. I think I may take it back to them and see what happens. but i still would like to know anything that could help me solve the problem.

Hi...after searching for a solution to my problem I have come up EMPTY handed....

I have a Radeon All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro. I am trying to run one display off of the DVI-I OUTPUT and another through S-video. I have a monitor working FINE with the DVI-I connection. However, I cannot get the video card to detect the second display.

The second display is an LCD Television (Proview RX-326). It has a VGA connection and S-video connection. Using a DVI-I to VGA adapter, I connected the LCD Display to the video card. The display is working fine. However, since I cannot run both displays from the DVI-I connection, I want the monitor running from DVI-I and the LCD display through S-video. When I try to hook up the LCD display through S-Video, there is no detection of the device.

In the instruction manual for the video card gives the following on page 29:

“To enable and DISABLE the television display

1) Click Start, point to SETTINGS, then click Control Panel
2) Double click Display, then click the Settings tab.
3) Click the Advanced button, then click the ATI Displays tab.
4) Click the green enable/disable button next to the word “TV” to enable/disable television display.”

However, when I try to do this, the buttons under the ATI Displays tab are blocked out (grey not green). I cannot click anything. I see that the working monitor is enabled and detected, but I cannot activate the second display.

I have the S-video cable running through the purple cable adapter that comes with the video card. This is because the S-video cable will not plug directly into the card (the card has an 8 pin connection which needs to run through this sort of adapter). I’m wondering if the adapter that came with the card is broken…

Could somebody please help me? Is there any way to get both displays working…

Thanks a lot
Do you have any particular reason to believe that the card can output through more than one connector simultaneously?Yeh manual says its possible...I'm starting to think something is broken...Have you downloaded the latest drivers from ATI's website?yeh i did that as soon as I got the card, which was 3 weeks ago.

Is XFX 6800XT extreme edition 256MB DDR3 better XFX 6600GT 128MB DDR3??? I not very sure bout graphic cards can give me some pointers? thanks.I would always go with the 1 with more memory (THOUGH bandwidth is very important too) with these 2#. I like the xfx 6800gt 256MB .... check your slots on the motherboard for either a AGP-compliant motherboard or a PCI-E " " motherboard.
(If you have a PCI-E EXPANSION SLOT compatable mobo (slot) i'd go with the NEWER technology which is that one...
I just got a PNY Nvidia GFORCE 7300GS 256MB HDTV DIV PCI-E and it works and looks fantastic
$ 99.00 (staples) probably find cheaper though if you shop around a bit.

wait for an experienced tech here to reply if you don't agree, I am no pro*

k i just had this crazy idea to stick a fan like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-ELECTRIC-COOLING-FAN-PRO-SERIES-RADIATOR-STREET-ROD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34201QQihZ016QQitemZ260010574909QQrdZ1 on the side of my tower casing so would this work theoretically? if not is 120mm the biggest tower fan i can get? whats some alternativse?You need to get out more. If you're serious...

I'd imagine this thing draws many more amps at 12 volts than a standard computer fan. They don't say what it draws. You probably wouldn't want it hooked up to your computer's power supply. A SEPARATE 12V power supply with a high enough amp rating to run it would bring the cost way up.

If you're REALLY looking for a powerful case fan, an equipment cooling fan that runs off 120V AC would be a better choice because you could plug it straight into the wall for power. Also, they tend to be as small, though much more powerful than computer fans, allowing you to aim the airflow where it will do some good. A fan with more airflow that's smaller can be more effective than a larger fan with the same airflow. The trend towards larger fans is mainly to achieve the same airflow as smaller fans at lower RPMs with less noise.

PS... I see now that they say it draws 10 - 12 amps. WAY past the capabilities of a computer power supply. An external 12V power supply capable of 10 - 12 amps WOULD be pricey. This thing would probably suck parts off of your mainboard and shoot them out at you!!!Quote

k i just had this crazy idea to stick a fan like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-ELECTRIC-COOLING-FAN-PRO-SERIES-RADIATOR-STREET-ROD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34201QQihZ016QQitemZ260010574909QQrdZ1 on the side of my tower casing so would this work theoretically? if not is 120mm the biggest tower fan i can get? whats some alternativse?

My MOUSE and keyboard do not work. They are both plugged, but neither work for some reason. My computer was off for a MONTH or so and when I went to turn it on, neither would work. Does anyone know what the problem MIGHT be?With no details of the computer, OPERATING system, peripherals (USB, wireless or PS/2)etc. we can only guess.

See below.can you use another keyboard and mouse on your comp to see if they work?

what type of keyboard and mouse do you have? PS\2 (round connector) or a USB (rectangular connector)?

Well everyone I am on the verge of a new project which involves buidling an uber gaming rig. Right now my computer is pretty good but there is a whole slew of new games I am looking forward to in the upcomming months which will be a bit too much for my specs to handle. Right now im a 3ghz with 2gb of ram and a Radeonx800 256mb card.

Option A.
Purchase an empty case from scratch. Build it up from the ground new everything
Option B.
Buy a new case (since mine is in rough shape) change out mother board and processor and add the other hardware back in.

Tbh I have been wanting to build my own computer from scratch for the longest time especially now that they have such nice cases you can buy. What would you guys say is the biggest pain when building your own rig? Or the biggest drawback. I have heard that ASUS boards are the best to use but honestly processor wise is where I am stuck. I have always been pentium with the dells I have owned but how does the current line of AMD's stand up to the Pentiums? I think of myself as a moderate i.t. guy but I dont know if I am good enough to build one. I PLAN on using tigerdirect.com for the primary site to order from. What do you guys think of them? Looking forward to hearing back fromy ou guys thanks alot.

-ChrisThe only guarantee is that whatever you buy today will be obsolete tomorrow. Picking individual PIECES should be done when you are ready to buy, not before.

I can't imagine what the system you describe having can not play, but if you recycle too much you will be bottlenecking new technology that you will purchase in the future. If the major thing you want is a new case get that.

If you have never built a system, a $1500 "uber system" may not be the place to start. Tigerdirect sells a lot of stuff and has their share of fans, and not.Yeah I know how stuff becomes obsolete but as long as its good hardware it will last me a long long time for what I have to do with it. What do you mean if I recycle too much I will be bottlenecking? If I buy all new hardware wouldnt you think that would limit capatability issues rather than mixing old with new?If you need all new hardware then go ahead.

New motherboards need new CPU, they may take different RAM, you will have to get a new VIDEO card, and it will need a better power supply. Old hard drives are slower.... well, you get the idea.I just Built Me an Uber System, I went For an AMD2 64 X2 4600 Cpu , and a Gefroce 7950GX2 , and an MSI mother Board

Ill say tho, Ive Been Hearing that the New Intel Chips out Do the AMD's , but the Difference is Negligible.
My GFX card was Stupid Expensive, and left me only being able to buy 1gig of ram. and it Runs Very hot. Case fans are all at High Speed to keep it cool

the Case i bought was $150 an Antec Slient Case, its very Nice loads of Space , Easy Mounting and Midnight black With None of those Stupid Lights, or See trough Bits.

And all of this will be out of Date in a few months.

Damit my Work Printer has gone and Went BerserkBasically all I am stuck on at the moment is a motherboard...to keep it a little more simple I would like to get a motherboard/cpu combo pack so I know there wont be an issues of incompatibilty. As for the case I have one picked out It has alot of fans an proper ventalation and I believe the power supply that comes with it is a 500watt which is more than enough. I am probably going to be looking to get a 512mb video card which is going to be insane ammount of money. As for the brand I have heard half the people say radeon the other say nvidia...The only real issue is just the darn board and processor...Any suggestions?If you get a "kewl" case with an "el cheapo" power supply you WILL be sorry. A lot of expensive components have been DAMAGED by inferior chinese junk.

In any case save your pennies. AMD will be dropping prices shortly, probably by the end of the month.

im trying to install windows again cuz it had a virus and trying to reinstall windows screwed up my computer... and it isnt a real windows cd

im trying to install windows again cuz it had a virus and trying to reinstall windows screwed up my computer... [highlight]and it isnt a real windows cd[/highlight]

Hi all,
I have a WDC600 60Gb hard drive which has recently become corrupted. Whilst using windows, the computer ground to a halt and died. Upon the enevitable reboot, just after BIOS screen, I get a message saying that there is no operating system or it is corrupt.

The problem is that every piece of recovery software I have tried, all 5 of them, indicate a read error and cannot proceed. I find this strange since the BIOS recognises it as does windows, within the device manager at least, but not as drive within My Computer when the drive is installed as a slave. As far as I can tell the motor still functions, as it gets rather toasty after a few mins - it could be the electronics but the case around the motor is disproportionawly hot compared to the PCB - nothing unusual for a hard drive to create this amount of heat.

If anyone could indicate the problem or anything to try to get the data off, either a hardware of software solution, I would be very greatful. If anyone knows the cause of the problem or whether I would ever be able to use the hard disk again that would also be helpful.

Kind regardsotacustes ......perhaps you could elaborate just a wee bit .........
you say , Quote

The problem is that every piece of recovery software I have tried, all 5 of them

if windows won't load ? How are you running this software ?

What O/S are you using ?

How old is the Western Dig drive that has quit ?

which recovery software have u used??

i feel scared opening my pc how do i overcome the FEAR..do i just do it *touch metal before i do* or do i wait until im ready..im ready but i have a feeling im gonna bugout when i open the side panel..what are you afraid will happen

why do you need to open?Why not ask someone with experience to help?Maybe a haloadult?Halo kid , do You Post on Gamefaqs? Halo Forum? i think i might have met you Before

But anyway every ones a bit Afraid there First time ^.^

But you just have to get in there and Be Careful, try not to touch raw Metal Bits , hold the PCB's buy the Edges, maybe go to the Library and get a book on PC maintenance for Beginners

The whole Touching Metal Thing is to Earth your Self and make sure you not holding a charge, it a good idea, but the thing you touch has to be earthed or it wont work, if you want to some thing to touch try a radiator.halokid33 ...... ok , let clear up this phobia you seem to have ......... It's one thing to be cautious when opening up a pc ( desktop ) and it's quite another to be paranoid about it . The biggest concern is that if the person opening up the case of the pc , has a static buildup in their body , that they may inadvertantly discharge that static buildup through the sensitive components....possibly rendering them useless ........ So to prevent this , there are several thing one can do .
You can purchase a grounding bracelet if you will that you attach to your wrist and the other end is grounded .......... and you wear this whilst your working on the pc ........ OR ..........
You would shut down the pc ......... remove all the cables from the back , with the exception of the main power cable ..........( which contains a good solid ground connection and must be LEFT plugged into the wall recepticle ) remove the side cover ........ now before touching anything inside , place your hand on the bare metal portion of the frame ........ ( this will drain off any static buildup in you ) ..leave your hand on the frame for a few seconds and then proceed to do whatever it was you planned on doing . Always try and handle things like the sticks of ram and any of the cards , by the ENDS so your not touching the chips or the contacts.
Another word of caution , some of the components , have locking devices on them ......... For example , the ram sockets and the CPU SOCKET .... so dont just grab on and yank ......... or you may find to your horror that you have pulled a dimm slot right out of the mobo ............ and most imortant ...if your not sure what to do ....ask first .......

DL65 And don't do like these guys:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rigRYAXFGqoand remember some words of wisdom..."if it doest want to go in/out nicely, DONT FORCE IT!!"