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Recently I just paid a shop to fit my new motherboard, CPU and graphics card. They SAID everything would be fine and that my motherboard setting would be transfered to my hard drive. But when I set everything up and turned it on, the computer started to beep and an error message saying "CPU fan fail or speed" (or something very similar. Then I reset my computer, it took me to a screen saying start windows in safe mode etc. Everytime I chose an option my computer would just reset and take me to the same screen again. I would contact the shop but at the MOMENT they are closed and i really want to try my comouter out.

My specs are:
Motherboard: Asus A8N-SLI SE
CPU: AMD Athlon 3700+
1.7gb ram
80gb hardrive
GPU: Nvidia geforce 7900 gt KO

Im not sure if it is something to do with the RAM or heating, when I felt inside the case everything was very hot. When i took my computer into the shops I asked for a new PSU becuase mine was only a 20 pins and the new motherboard was a 24 pin, but they said it would be ok with 20.I suspect just from the info you have provided they have not installed the proper PSU...trying to get it to run and or boot properly risks damaging that MBoard and CPU.
Take it back immediately and have them do it properly.

A 24 pin MBoard should have a 24 pin PSU.I know you're anxious to try it out but you'd better just wait until the opens and take it back to them and tell them it does not work. "everything was very hot" after just having the power on for a short time,NOT GOOD. And this matter of a 20 pin PSU with a motherboard with a 24-pin power connector does not sound right. I'm not sure on this point, so maybe someone else will comment. What is that shop telling you, that 4 pins on the motherboard connector can simply be left open? I don't think so.

Edit: Ok, I see Patio posted and commented on the pins issue.The guys at the shop definetly said that even that 20 pins would be fine even THOUGH it was 24. They say that 20 pins would be ok as long as I dont want anything more. I tried to boot it but everytime i tried it just resets at usua, do I just put my windows disc in my CD drive and press F8 and go to the boot menu? I guess I'll just have to wait for the shop to open and ring them Better educate yourself some more on the # of pins issue; here's some info: Do 20 pin PSUs work with 24 pin MOTHERBOARDS?. Did they put an adapter in your computer?I happened to read this just before. And no they did not put an adapter in. This is basically what it looks like,
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/image/11254/

I have come to the conclusion that it is not my PSU that is preventing start up. After starting my computer for a second timeit stays very cool but persists to keep reseting. Im not sure what it could be :'(maybe its something to do with my motherboard setting being changed from my hadrive.just to report back to you,i just booted it up with the windwos xp disc and it seems to be working fine. Though the gpu is getting a little hotter than usual.What's your understanding of the 24-pin motherboards? Do you know why the 24-pin connectors were introduced?

I believe the extra 4 pins were put there to power certain PCI Express video cards. You have a PCI Express video card, right? If you believe you do not need a 24 pin PSU, then let's have an answer to the basic question. Why does your motherboard have a 24 pin connector? And, what about your current configuration makes the 20 pin PSU adequate vs. a 24 pin PSU? And, if you don't need a 24 pin PSU now, what change or upgrade would require getting a 24 pin PSU?Why don't you reinstall Windows with the current hardware? Do you have a real Windows CD?

If they fit a new mobo and it doesn't work, I think that would warrant a return visit.

got a 3d card. INSTALLED it i used to have a sis graphics card (i uninstalled that by going in device manager) when i put the new 3d card in the agp slot (which before had nothing) and tried to boot my computer the screen stays blank and the computer starts beeping (i think at the bios stage) i also cahnged the bios settings to Primary grpahics adapter to AGP onbord and still doesnt boot up .... dono waht it can be. When i take the card out the pc boots up fine

im sure that the card is compatible to the motherboard...

i would give you moer INFORMATION about my system but i dont know to much about computers.

this is my friends acc and he offered to let me use the acc.If this is a high end AGP card it might require extra power. FIRST of all make sure the wattage of your power supply is sufficient. Secondly check the card's manual - sometimes you need to put an extra power wire into the card. I'd try this card on another computer if you can.I WONDER what an ACC is?

Open the case and look at the power supply and tell us the make and wattage. Is this a Dell, HP, etc or a home grown?

See below.I wonder what an ACC is?

Open the case and look at the power supply and tell us the make and wattage. Is this a Dell, HP, etc or a home grown?

See below. Details GET better answers.

Yea my laptop was acting kinda sluggish so i had a clean install after a format. Now i can't get it to go full screen completely while playing anything i.e UTD, movies, clips ETC. Mayb you guys should take a look at these shots




You see how theres black bars at the sides of the shots ? That's how my full screen looks like. I have installed the latest ati mobility radeon x1400 drivers and installed all the drivers which came with the laptop. First i thought i had a windows installment issue, i re-installed still the same problem. I am 100% sure i have everything similar to what i had before the first format/reinstall then why won't it work !!! Here are my laptop specs, i hope someone can help me out as i am very frustrated !!!

Computer:
Dell Inspiron 6400
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name VXDESIGN-0304B9
User Name VoodooX

Motherboard:
CPU Type Mobile DualCore Intel Pentium M, 1666 MHz (10 x 167)
Motherboard Name Dell MM061
Motherboard Chipset Intel Calistoga i945GM/PM
System Memory 1024 MB (DDR2-533 DDR2 SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (04/20/06)

Display:
Video Adapter ATI Mobility Radeon X1400 (Omega 3.8.273) (256 MB)
Video Adapter ATI Mobility Radeon X1400 (Omega 3.8.273) (256 MB)
Monitor Generic Television
Monitor Plug and Play Monitor [NoDB]That's a WIDESCREEN laptop, isn't it? You need to set your Windows and game resolutions to something that your laptop screen can cope with natively. Possibly 1280x800 will work? TRY it.Yes i have tried both, yet no luck. But everything worked fine before the format and re-install, that's the weird part, and i have installed everything similar as before. I did a research of my own and from what i gathered is that the screen is not refreshing properly to change the resolution, why i say that is because before it used to have 1 sec black screen delay whenever i ran a full screen app/game and now there is none. Do you guys think it's a video card problem ? Although i ran the dell diagnostic tests and it says all hardware passed the tests. Is there any utility which can scan my video card or hardware and tell me if it's malfunctioning on not ?Do you mean you get black borders around the image in your screen? Yet no luck... what happened? It sounds to me as if your computer is not stretching the display the fit the whole monitor. This is a "feature" on some laptops that may or may not be useful. I'm not sure how to alter it though. If you're using ATI try looking in the Catalyst CONTROL Center.You are not using the Dell display drivers? That could be part of the problem. Laptops=proprietary.

I have recently connected up a new wireless laser mouse, but it has massive responsiveness.
I can edit the setting through my control panel, so it WORKS fine once i've signed into my account, but on the welcome screen it is far too reponsive to se easily.
I am wondering whether it is possible to lower the setting, so it does not move too quickly.If it's any help you can use the tab and arrow keys to use this log in screen.Quote

I have recently connected up a new wireless laser mouse, but it has massive responsiveness.
I can edit the setting through my control panel, so it works fine once i've signed into my account, but on the welcome screen it is far too reponsive to se easily.
I am wondering whether it is possible to lower the setting, so it does not move too quickly.

Hello

I really hope someone can help me out here, if not i have lost all the things i want on my hard drive. I have a ghost image of my windows hard drive, on ANOTHER hard drive. I bought a new drive installed windows xp on it and now for some REASON when i goto try and ghost the image to the new drive the folder shows as empty. But i know it is there any help would be very good. Also when im in windows and click on the other drive i see Ghost image folders that i already deleted long ago."I have a ghost image of my windows hard drive, on another hard drive."

Can you reinstall your drive that has the image, reimage it (with a different name so as to be able to identify it from the others...like todays date), then put your new drive in and recover the new image from the old drive?

Are you SURE you put the image in the same place as the others? Have you done a 'search' for all the IMAGES on that drive?

I'm not familiar with Ghost but thougt a few provocative questions might help

Alan <><

It's been a while since I worked with ghost. That out of the way... "I bought a new drive installed windows xp on it..." What version are you using? With ghost one just COPIED over a ghost image from your "STORAGE" hard drive to a new formatted one without an operating system after booting off of a ghost floppy.

As far as recovery utilities go, do you still have the original hard drive? If so, may I direct you to the following:

NTFS Reader
http://www.ntfs.com/products.htm

There's also Knoppix. A good example of using it for recovery can be found:
http://www.shockfamily.net/cedric/knoppix/

I have a Server here in the Office that we had Running backups to an External USB HDD,

It Decided to Fail, as they do , so i had to setup a new computer to take over the Role, i got it up and Working with WINDOWS 2000 Pro, Which was all that we needed to run a Nightly Back up. At this Point the Drive Worked . i had to install a LBA 48Bit Patch so windows could see the large disks.
So i know all the hardware I'm using works in the Current configuration.

But then then the powers that be , Decide that they want to revamp the network, and they want the Backup server to double as a Domain Controller.
So i install Windows 2000 Server, I Install the larger disk SUPPORT Patch, and its all good the internal 300 Gig SATA Disk is working fine, so i set up all the back-up scripts. they WORK dandy.

Then i plug in the USB HDD , Pops up found new Hardware, External USB HDD.
Drive is unformatted , would you like to format it now (Nope very much not)
So i look in disk manage meant and its show as the right size , but as an unknown File type , but i know its not gone CORRUPT as it shows up fine on all the other PCs Ive tyred.

Can any one Help?!
Its a Dell Power Edge SC420
Running Windows 2000 Server SP4
Whit a HD-D2-U2FW Usb CaddyFor some strange reason, it has just started working , by Magic!

I have no idea why

But i did just install Active Directory , and a DNS Server. So if this happens to you, Become a Domain!

Hi

Since last night my computer has STARTED switching itself on when i have closed it down. I use window XP home, any help would be appreciated.It is probably in your BIOS settings.

Scroll down to Wake On LAN and/or
Wake On RING and change them to
Disable.Unplug it 1 I dont see any of them setting in my bios.

2 I could just unplug it, but i would prefer to find out whats causings it. The computer parts are STILL under warrenty. I BUILT the system myself last year, so i need to determine the part that has a fault, in order to send that part back.Aside from that, does it cause any other problems? Always done this?No it just started doing it last night. It doesnt cause anyother problems. One other thing when i hold the power button down instead of the normal shutdown, it stays turned OFF.Hm give us an update tomorrow.Ok can anyone else answer this update. When i disable all my network cards my computer seems to run fine (no switching itself on). So it has something to do with my computer when it is connected to the internet, through a certain network CARD it switches itself on. Ok does anyone have any idears.You can read the below sites.

Power Management section of the motherboard's BIOS.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake-on-LAN

http://gsd.di.uminho.pt/jpo/software/wakeonlan/mini-howto/wol-mini-howto-2.htmlOk i have looked at the links. Please can you tell me one more thing, Who will it be turning my computer on and why would they want to do this.

Thanks.

have linksys WIRELESS router MODEL no. WAG54GX2. It works properly in wired network but doesn't work in wireless networking.

Sometimes wireless networking is CONNECTED and sometime it is disconnected without doing any thing.

Sometimes One computer is detecting wireless networking and another is not detecting. and there is not that much distance that wireless can't be connected. What may be the problem??
Need...more...info ;-)


Are you using the Linksys software or the built-in Windoze software to connect?

How long has this been going on?

How many computers are involved wirelessly?

Have you tried moving the router to a different location?

Updated / run / antivirus and ANTISPYWARE programs?

Checked the setting in the router for proper wireless configuration?

Aln <>< ;-)"quote"
Sometimes One computer is detecting wireless networking and another is not detecting. and there is not that much distance that wireless can't be connected. What may be the problem??


How many puters are on this network?
Is everyone using the "same" virus & firewall protection ?
Make sure everyone is using the same. <start there 1st.
How OLD is the router? Is the aerial plugged in?

Is it advantageous to have (2) dvd/cd in your case? Besides burning with one and maybe playing music in the other, what other applications would warrant having (2) ? I am drawing a blank and need advice. Can you even use both at the same time?Do you have a specific reason for wanting two drives? If not, then save the money this is for the system I am building my son, I have no idea? Would a sixteen yr old want/ need 2 drives? What else could I get him besides the HD/DVD/ in those bays?How about good, old fashioned, reliable, floppy drive. Besides being a "*censored* saver", you (he) might want make password recovery disks. Or save certain FILES that can be kept from prying eyes.Quote

How about good, old fashioned, reliable, floppy drive. Besides being a "*censored* saver", you (he) might want make password recovery disks. Or save certain files that can be kept from prying eyes.

Help. I've googled until I was blue but can't find any info. I'm trying to install a printer a friend gave me WITHOUT the CD or manuals.I've been able to find the driver for XP, loaded this on a floppy but still no luck. Can this be done?Your joking right ?


Get the name brand of printer, model number, (say its a HP INKJET)
Go to their website, go to product support or downloads, lookup your model number, "double check always b4 downloading", click on the driver support for that model and download the drivers, bingo.
Make sure its a safe site and turn off all your virus programs b4 downloading the drivers for your printer....hope that helps/works....


A correct printer driver will take more than 1 floppy.

I wonder what kind of printer? Maybe the original poster will think it's important enough to tell us.... Quote

turn off all your virus programs b4 downloading the drivers

Quote

turn off all your virus programs b4 downloading the drivers

No. On NO ACCOUNT should you do this.

If the download doesn't include an installation program, to add the printer, use the add printer wizard and point it at the folder where the drivers are now located.

I bet there's a driver for Linux.

Quote

I bet there's a driver for Linux.

Other than its very cheap price ($0) what would be the advantages of switching to Linux from XP?

Quote

I bet there's a driver for Linux.

Other than its very cheap price ($0) what would be the advantages of switching to Linux from XP?

My printer is all connected, and has been working fine until today. I went to print a document, and the job wouldn't show up in the QUEUE. So I unplugged everything and plugged it back in- still didn't work. I restarted everything, and still didn't work. I then uninstalled the printer, and REINSTALLED it. Now it is not SHOWING a connection. I've MADE sure everthing is plugged in good, and still nothing. What could be the problem? Any suggestions?What is the printer? What operating system are you using? Are you using a USB, parallel or network connection?

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone might be able to help me out here. I have a Fujitsu laptop, c-series 1211. My problem now is it has a built-in wireless capability there. It has always been working until recently for some reason, it just stopped functioning.

I have tried to uninstall it and then went to download the driver from the fujitsu site and installed it. it still doesn't do any good. what happen is that i can't MAKE a new profile for a new connection. All the buttons including 'new profile' are DISABLED or greyed out. And on the bottom right hand corner, i could see the wireless icon there plus the atheros signal strength bar indicator but there is a cross sign on top of the atheros signal indicator.

Thank you in advanceDoes the computer recognize the wireless network controller in the device manager? Sounds like it doesnt think you have any connection at all.

Double check the device manager, see if its there. Make sure that it is turned on, both on the computer and the switch on the laptop, if it has one.

Are you able to test and see whether a wired connection works? If you can plug it a network cable and get a connection, then its your wireless and not something else for sure.Hi, Chris

Thank you for your reply.

It keeps on asking me where the file ar5211.sys is. It SEEMS to have lost from the computer. I've been looking for it on the internet but some require me to join into their members before i could download it.

I wonder if you might be able to tell me where i can get it from.

Thank you in advanceI found this post on a Dlink forum, it MAY help, it says to Remove the File from System 32 and then reinstall your Drivers for your netowrk adapter.... but it's not the Same Error you are giving
But it seems to be a driver Problem

20.0 Setup and Installation

How do I solve DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL in AR5211.SYS

Users with the DWL-G630 and other wireless LAN cards have experienced a blue-screen error message, "DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" with a mention of the file ar5211.sys.

This answer is specific to the AR5211.SYS file. If you are getting this error message involving a driver other than AR5211.SYS, please check other Microsoft search results for the DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL message. The following suggestion does not apply to you.

The following steps may solve this problem in versions of Windows XP:

In preparation for these steps:
A. Download the latest version of the DWL-G630 drivers from support.dlink.com.
B. Consider setting a Restore Point. For additional information about System Restore, click Start, click Help and Support, type system restore in the Search box, and then press ENTER.

1. Go to Add/Remove Software
2. Remove your G630 software
3. In Explorer, go to %windir%\system32\drivers and, if you see AR5211.sys, RENAME it to AR5211.old. (Note: it may have already been deleted by Step 2, above.).
4. Reboot your computer and log on
5. If Add/Remove Hardware wizard comes back up, choose Cancel
6. Install the latest DWL-G630 software that you downloaded earlier.
7. The software should install and your network card should now be enabled or detected. If it is, proceed normally. If it is not...
8. ...Click Start, Run, and run compmgmt.msc and open Device Manager ... click the name of your computer at the top of the tree, then click the icon to scan for new hardware

This was discussed here.
Hi Panboy

Thank you for your assistance.

It still doesn't work. I could actually see the wireless connection and the signal icons appearing on the bottom right hand corner of the screen. But when i actually double clicked on the signal, the atheros client utility pop up. By default, the default profile is created. At this time, all the buttons like new, edit, remove, activate are disabled. Hence, i can not set a new profile.

The signal strength said "No Link"
Radio Status: Hardware disabled (i have enabled it but it said "Not connected" under network connection in the control panel).

What i did was
1. uninstall it from the add/remove programs under control panel
2. after this point, i checked the windows/system32/driver/ar5211.sys is not there any more which makes sense because i have removed the program
3. reboot the computer
4. run setup.exe
5. during setup.exe, it asked for the ar5211.sys (to me, this is very weird. it should be able to look for the file. The file should be in one package, right? ).
6. Finish
7. i did not reboot the computer

Have i missed anything?

From the device manager, i could see both the LAN and atheros. They are functioning according to windows

I wish to be able to remove every bits of atheros and start it all over again.

Thank you in advance

Laptop problem #3, also with the monitor. This problem has started occurring more recently. I will be WORKING on my laptop when suddenly the screen will turn off. If I tilt it into the light I can see that Windows is still up and whatever I was working on is still begging to be saved. If I fold the screen back and forth it usually comes back on; other times I have to shut the computer down and restart it, which almost always brings it back. Any suggestions?Is the machine under WARRANTY? Do we get any clues about it? Do you have a real Windows CD to SOLVE all of these problems assuming it is not HARDWARE?

I want to take the video off my camcorder as a movie file but the INSTRUCTIONS say i gotta use the PROGRAM they gave me, which does not take it off as a movie file!!Hmmmm. What's missing here? Why, SPECIFIC information, that's what!

SEE below.Since you may be a novice, try this link for help.

Good Luck



http://arstechnica.com/guides/tweaks/vidcap.ars

I just built a computer and it doesn't boot!
It doesn't show anything on the screen either, so I installed a POST code reader and tried to see what went wrong.
However, when I turn it on, the POST code reader shows some codes for about a half second and then turns to "--".
Also, the clock LED goes off.
(Everything happens so quickly that I can't read what the last code was)
I'm not sure if its motherboard's fault or power supply's.
The BIOS is AMI and both the motherboard and power supply are pretty much of inferior quality. But I'm so poor to replace them.
Can somebody help me identify what the problem is? And what I should do?
Thanks.Quote

The BIOS is AMI and both the motherboard and power supply are pretty much of inferior quality.

Can somebody help me identify what the problem is? And what I should do?

I just bought three Panasonic CF-M34 Toughbooks off EBAY. Unfortunately, all three have similar problems with video on the LCD panels. None of these have an operating system yet, so I am limited to booting to SETUP. All three have a RED TINT to the screen, and may have random flickers in the video display, or go to BLACK = dead screen.

1.] Displays the PANASONIC LOGO [ tinted red ] , then the first few lines of POST display, then says it is entering setup, then goes BLACK = DEAD VIDEO. Restart as many times as you want, the pattern stays the same.

2.] Displays the PANASONIC LOGO [ tinted red ], goes all the way into the setup screen, then flickers randomly, may stay on for a few minutes before going BLACK = DEAD VIDEO.

3.] Displays the PANASONIC LOGO [ tinted red ], goes into setup screen, flickers lightly, then gradually stabilises and clears red tinted video to proper white.

I was told replacing the LCD "INVERTER" or the complete LCD panel would cure these problems, but before ordering any replacement PARTS, I tried a little experiment. I swapped the screens around with the laptop lower bodies, and THE SYMPTOMS FOLLOWED THE BODIES, NOT THE SCREENS. Which seems to imply the problems lie with a motherboard component rather than a Video component?

Can any body experienced with LCD panels point me in the right direction?? I really like these little Toughbooks, and I thought I could fix the Video issue with a simple inverter or screen replacement, but ?

thanks
LAZIf they have no OS on them it's not a sure bet that the video is SHOT. It mifght just be that the splash screen only stays active for a certain time at which point you would get a black screen...

patio. 8-)

Before i would invest in inverters or anything else i would at least load an OS on there and TAKE it around the block for a few days.I am hitting "F2" to access the BIOS setup screens, which DOES stay on with one of the units. The second one gets in, and stays on for a few minuts. The third one doesn't even make it in to the setup screens. A bad CMOS battery would at least give me a POST error message [ eg: message stuck at ""entering Setup" ], but with the one, I don't even get that.
[;{(
LAZContact the seller. I suspect you got no bargains.

I have been attempting to connect a PC to TV wireless transmitter to my PC and have come up against a problem. My graphics card has two outputs for a monitor, 1 x DVI and 1 X vga connectors and my monitor currently USES the DVI connector - my problem arises because the PC to TV sender uses a vga connector and is designed LIKE a T-piece that allows the usual vga monitor to be connected on the end of it. I THOUGHT that I could just use the vga connector on its own for the PC sender deivice, but when I connect it to that vga connector it does not seem to have an output.

Can anyone suggest a practical solution? Maybe if there is a possibility of forcing the graphics card to output to both DVI and vga connectors at the same time then it would work!!

Am ADVICE gratefully accepted.

Phil

I TRIED to look in the Q & A, but I still can get my computer to reformat. Is there an easy way to restore my computer to original factory settings.
step by step...please
TIA
JillI can't quite see your computer from here. Perhaps you could post a lot of information about it.

There is no "easy" button.

See below.If you have the original manuals that came with the computer a step by step
guide is ALWAYS there. :-?Come on you have not even TOLD us what operating system you are USING - without that information there is nothing we can do to help you.Some of these QUESTIONS may be a little hard for the OP. jillybeene31, what CDs came with your PC?

I have had an HP Pavilion ZT1170 LAPTOP for about four years now. The battery gradually declined, as batteries do, from two hours, to fifteen minutes, to just enough time to save and close, to nothing at all. For a long time now it has just been dead weight in my laptop.

I finally got fed up with the plug getting kicked out, however, and last week I purchased a new battery from batteries.com. I plugged in the new battery with some trepidation last night and was relieved to see that it showed 3% and charging. Huzzahs and all. I checked back from time to time; I saw it at 8%, then 15%, then 18%, then, oddly enough, 13%, which is where it stuck. After three hours it was still showing 13%, I left it overnight and in the morning, still 13%. I tried it unplugged and my laptop won't start, a slight flash of LIGHTS and that is all I get.

I removed the battery a couple of times and replaced it. Suddenly now it is back down to 3% and seems to be stuck there. Frankly, I wouldn't be surprised if it is a problem with my computer--it would be but a drop in the bucket. But is there any convenient way to DETERMINE where the problem is at?Fletch:

Try checking the Battery applet in the Control Panel to see what the percent charge is there and whether it indicates it is still charging.

Check the contacts where the battery connects to the laptop to make sure there is no corrosion or dust. If necessary, use contact cleaner that you purchase from an electronics or computer store.

Try PLUGGING the laptop into a different electrical outlet. Perhaps it is a wiring problem with your home or office. Batteries need adequate voltage to charge correctly. If you do not have a multimeter to test the voltage of the outlet, try taking the laptop to a friend's home or a different office building to try to charge it there.

Let us know how it goes,
DocI checked the power applet and it says "Total battery power remaining: 13% (charging)" Then below it shows a battery symbol with a lightning bold that says 12% beside it and "Charging" below. I checked the contacts on the battery and laptop and all looks clean and sound. And I tried different outlets in the apartment, some of which currently have other laptops charging on them, with no change. Very disappointing. Any other possibilities?try contacting the place where you bought the new battery, This is their buisness and they should be able to help. My guess may be a bad cell in the battery. I used to shoot video for years and have had many a battery and am all too familiar with power problems. Although not having a laptop, i am not familiar with the battery type. Are they NiCad, Litium Ion ?
With ALL of the problems you are posting it sounds like it needs to go to the shop. 4 years from an HP laptop is a GOOD run.It's a Li-ion battery. I'll give batteries.com a call tomorrow. I'm just trying to get a little bit more out of my precious before I trade it in. It's about time, though, I want to learn some 3-d modeling and this just won't cut it.

Laptop problem #4. Something HAPPENING more and more frequently is that certain keys on my keyboard will stop responding. They are always the same keys as far as I can tell. One is "e", one is the right hand SHIFT, and another is the up arrow. I will be typing something and notice that certain letters aren't appearing for some reason. When I get frustrated and press the key a little more forcefully e's shoot across the screen and all of the formerly dysfunctional keys come back on. Is it time to get a new laptop?Is the machine under warranty? Do we get any clues about it? Do you have a real Windows CD to solve all of these PROBLEMS assuming it is not hardware?Man , this is the laptop from *censored*,,lol personally i would start fresh, wipe everything out and start over. but if you dont want to go thru drastic measures, have you tried doing a system restore ? I forget, did you BUY this system new ? I havent seen this many woes with a system at one time before.My laptop is well out of warrantee. I still have the restore disks, but I have restored it before and the problem still comes up. To the shop or to EBAY. That's the only solution I see.I figured so, just wanted to see if anybody had heard of any solutions. Thanks anyway.

Problem #2 with my laptop. This has been a problem I think since I bought it. Every third or fourth time I reboot my machine, when Windows comes up the mouse cursor is all bugged out. It varies, but usually it looks something like a big block of black and white BARCODE. That and often a sliver of PIXELS will be missing down the middle of my screen and will show up at the right side of the screen instead. I can always remedy the situation by just rebooting until it starts up right. I've learned to cope, but I'm wondering if anyone has encountered something similar, and if there is any known fix for it.Is the machine under warranty? Do we get any clues about it? Do you have a real Windows CD to solve all of these problems assuming it is not hardware?When you SAY every third or fourth time time you reboot, why are you rebooting so much ? Regarding the mouse, try changing the properties and seeing if it continues on another style of mouse POINTER.I reboot so much because I don't have a functional battery. Every time I want to move somewhere else (work/home, kitchen/living room) I have to shut down, unplug it, and restart it somewhere else. That and the connection on the CORD is pretty loose so it doesn't take much to knock it out. I usually end up restarting five or six times a day. I have tried changing the mouse pointer and things still bug out.

My laptop is well out of warrantee. It's four years old. I still have the restore disks, but I have restored it before and the problem still comes up. Quote

the connection on the cord is pretty loose so it doesn't take much to knock it out.

All the cords are fine, of course.

Quote

If you're able to, what about sending us a photograph?

I replaced the onboard nic with a D-Link DGE-530t. When the pc gets unplugged for a period, the new NIC need to be installed. If the pc is not unplugged then everything is happy. Dose anyone have a thought?
Thank you, DaleThis one i just can't get...the NIC card should retain it's settings.
Possibly a weak CMOS battery ? ?
Just grasping at straws here.

patio. 8-)Thanks Patio, this is the only conculsion I could come to. I changed the bat. and will take wait and see approach.could also be dirt in the PCI slot...I've run across this once before. Tried changing the PCI slot for the NIC with the same results. Put in a new battery on the MOTHERBOARD, same thing. Replaced the motherboard...problem solved.

Alan <>< Expensive solution for a mischievous NIC. Was the onboard one disabled in BIOS?Is the nic actually connected to something (router,etc.) and connection powered up before you start the machine? A nic card cannot fully initialize unless it is connected. If it is not connected at POWER up, LOOK at msinfo32 (system information) tools tab/automatic skip driver agent. You will likely see an entry similar to "tcp/ip device not started". If this is the case, the solution is check the box next to it, connect the nic, and REBOOT. Router,etc. should be powered up.The onboard nic is disabled in Bios. I reseated the card in the slot and changed the battery. I haven't heard of a problem so far. Thank you all for your help, it is appreciated, DALE

i just got an ipod nano 1GB. i installed the software and have pluggd it in USB port.
The small manuel says let it charge for 3 hours or untill the battery is FULLY charged.
Well its been about 5 hours since i plugged it into the USB port and the little battery icon says it's charged but the moniter has a red cirlce with a line through it saying do not disconnet?
This is confusing me a lot,the battery icon says it's charged but the monitor is telling me to leave it connected. Is it safe for me to disconnect the ipod without messing my battery up?
Try this:


http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61724

Doc

ok thank you for that it was very helpful, but it was about keeping ur data.
So the reasing its sayng do not disconnect is because of potential data lose not becasue of the battery.
I have no data on my ipod though i just want to know if the battery is fully charge.
A yes or no answer pls, if its that simple. thanks
well i followed one of the stpes form the link PAGE u gave everything seems ok thank u
i too recently PURCHASED a new ipod. I bought the 30 gig video one and since i had an old one i went thru some batteries. Heres what you should do.

Batteries like any portable device need a full charge before using. Just to be safe, just keep the ipod plugged in overnight and this way you are assured to be fully charged. Normally the quick fix is the one hour charge to get to 50 to 70% usage. I dont like these because it shortens the life of any rechargeable battery.

I use mine for around 7 hours at work everyday and when i come home i keep it charged overnight. I did this for years and it was fine. When the battery does go, you will know because you may only get 3 to 5 hours of use. Thats when the 1 hr charge will buy you some time. Batteries for ipods are pretty inexpensive these days and down the road that shouldnt change.

Good Luck with your new ipod !!http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=HPIC,HPIC:2006-07,HPIC:en&q=charge+battery+for+ipod+site%3Aapple%2Ecom

I am at a loss. I have a new Maxtor 300 gig drive im trying to install in my computer. I have done this before on my Asus AMD systems with no problem. But i am INSTALLING it onto an Asus Intel based system and i dont know why im having trouble.

Maxtor tech said for me to try Slipstream but they disavow any knowledge of it. I tried the Maxtor MaxDrive utility but that doesnt allow XP to see the whole drive. Their utility software only WORKS when Windows is running, so it kinda defeats my purpose.

I bought a Maxtor SATA 150 Ultra ATA 133 PCI Combo Card and that didnt work. The jumpers were set to master and i tried cable select and both times didnt do anything. I know this shouldn't be this hard, because I have done it before, But this is just another reason why i hate intel.

Any ideas are appreciated.


RichQuote

this is just another reason why i hate intel.

Will a system boot for DVD or does it need to be a CD-rom drive? :-?
I had a system crash due to memory and harddrive, at least that is what I have determined the problem.
I have 2 DVD drives installed, a Pioneer 111-D - master and a BenQ LightScribe - slave.
I have my O/S on a 250gig drive.
Upon my system creashing, I was going to try to figure out what the problem was but when I insert the XP Pro cd in the Pioneer dvd drive, I can see the light come on but it will not allow the cd to boot. I have change the bios to allow the cd to be the first drive to be reconized.
After some working around the problem, I finally got my harddrive reformatted and with a new O/S and made sure that there were no problems with checkdisk.
I then proceeded to install additional software for the motherboard which has integrated stuff on it. It asked for a reboot and now the drive will not boot up as it needs to fix pci.dll? I think that is the file.
It mentions on the screen to insert the XP cd and to a "r" which I believe is a repair of MISSING or bad files.
BUT I can not get the DVD drive to recognize my XP cd.
Any thoughts how I can get around this?

My first thought was to create a boot floopy disk with cd drivers and boot from it and maybe have it recognize the dvd drive and then I can run setup.exe off of the cd.
But I can not find drivers nor is my memory good ENOUGH to remember how to do this. Been a while since I have had to do this.
I am stressed and confused and pissed off.

Any thoughts or HELP here would be great.
thanks
dwDVD, CD, shouldn't matter. Either should be recognized if your BIOS is set to boot from CD-ROM. Is Device Manager showing both DVD drives and indicating they are working properly? Do they both play music or video OK?

Do you have the master DVD drive connected to the end of the data cable and the slave connected to the middle connector? If not, try changing this and see whether it MAKES a difference. You also might try disconnecting one of the DVD drives and configuring the remaining one as master.
The problem is that I can not get to the harddrive to see if there is anything there. I was updating some software and it stated I needed to reboot for the new files to take affect.
After doing so, I get a message that says some files needs to be updated and to reinsert my OS cd and have it 'Repair' the file in question.
So now I need to get the drive to recognize my CD.
I SENT a question to the motherboard folks and they said I possibly needed to start pressing the F8 key to envoke a BBS popup menu to force the system to boot from the cd.Quote

I sent a question to the motherboard folks and they said I possibly needed to start pressing the F8 key to envoke a BBS popup menu to force the system to boot from the cd.

My bf has decided to build a gaming comp for me..this will take time (not to mention $$) as he is teaching himself "how to". I have every confidence in him. So far this is what he has:

Hard Drive: (HDD) Western Digital WD740ADFD - 16 mb buffer...74GB/10,000rpm (SATA w/data & power cables)
(setup on Raid 0 or Raid 1..he is not sure which RAID to use)

Case: Mid tower...Colormaster...RC-730-KSN1

Power Supply: Thermal Take 680 watts....woo 49 duel fan

WHat he is looking at OR researching: cpu..AmD Athlon 64/4600 x2
MOBO: ASUS A8N-SLI delux socket 939
memory: mobo capacity = 4gb=crucial 2GB kit. (DDR PC3200 cl=3/ddr 400 2.6v)
vid card: Ati crossfire 512mb ddr3 pci-x x-1800 OR ATI x 1900gt pci ex 256mb ddr3

Hope i typed this right coz i have no idea what half of this means..but the funny thing is if i call him in to read what u guys wrote back he becomes interested...so please give ur comments as to what is good or not and why. ty..im sure ill be back looks pretty sweet 8-). only thing is, you cannot have a RAID connection with just one SATA drive. it requires two. also, you might want to consider getting a larger harddrive. id suggest a minimum of 120gb.Whoa that's gonna cost too. If you want to save some money, only get 2gb ram (that's more than enough for today's needs). You can always plug in more later. (If you are getting 4, can't tell from what you've written)Thats actually suprisingly close to my COMPUTER right now. I think youve got a pretty good selection up there. Couple things:

1) I wouldnt raid the hard drives. First off, as someone pointed out, that requires two. Second, what you are describing is a Western Digital raptor, those 10k rpm sata drives, and they are pretty quick on their own. RAID in essence creates one drive out of two physical drives, giving you a lot of space but increasing the possibility of problems. Because of the way it works, if one of the two drives were to die, then the information on both drives would be unaccessable. [Assuming you went with RAID 0. RAID 1 is just data backup, it mirrors one drive to the other.]

2) Dont bother maxing out your ram right now. Ive got 2x1gb sticks, and the RAM is definitely not the bottleneck. You can always get more later, and AMD is moving to a whole new socket system very soon [AM2] which has the capability to increase RAM speeds considerably in the future. If you buy 4 gigs now, and then decide to upgrade your system in a couple of years to take ADVANTAGE of some new stuff coming down the pipe, its definitely possible that the ram will be too slow.

3) If neither of you have ever built a system before, ask lots of questions! lots of info out there, and its easy to screw something up if you dont exactly know what you are doing. Trust me, I blew a computer out once just with static electricity Clear an area to work, leave things in boxes until you are ready to put them into the case, make sure everything is compatible before you take it out of the packaging, etc.

My computer, for comparisons sake:

Abit AN8-SLi Fatal1ty
X2 4400+
2x1gb Corsair XMS PC3200
BFG Tech 7800 GTXOC
2x72gb Raptors
1x120gb Seagate barracudaAM2 CPU's are out now, if you go for amd make sure you get an AM2 Chip,

I heard the New intel Chips are infact better than the AMD one's so you might want to look at what intel has to offerAlright, building a computer is a very tough thing, if u care abt saving a few hundred dollars, or if u really want to know the specs and compare them to the rest of the market in order to feel proud of urself for putting all that time in and getting the best value.

1. HDD: You got the S.ATA part right, but i dont get why u would want to spend so much money in order to get a 10,000 RPM HDD. For the same price u can get at least a 250GB when all u get now is a 74GB HDD. It dosent matter as much, performance wise and its a waste of money.
What i would suggest u do, is buy a 250GB HDD from WD, wich make cheaper but more reliable HDDs. You can even find one with a 16M buffer. and all for a little over a hundered dollars.

2. RAM: In order to play today's games, 2GB will do u ok, and u will never need 8GB so getting 2GB in 2 1GB sticks is a good idea (other then getting 2GB sticks). Then u can upgrade to 3, or 4 when u feel like u have to.

3. I see ur looking into an SLi build, wich i think it usually a waste of money unless u spend over 1000$. Also the difference beetween the X1900GT and the X1900XT is huge, and u should always buy the X1900XT. You shouldnt of course buy an X1800 series card, because they are FAR worse then the X1900 series and arent worth it. Of course ATi cards dont overclock so WELL, and that is usually why a newer series is better (smaller nm process allows for higher clocks), but the X1900 series, and its 48 Fragment Pipelines is a must for anyone BUYING ATi.
You can find 2 X1900XTs for 600$ if ur lucky, or with mail-in rebate.
But u can also get an Nvidia card. At this point in time, i think that getting a 7900 GT/GTX in Sli is the best thing u can do.Building a pc is easy, Longs you get all the right bits.

If you have another pc (which as your posting i presume you have) if he ever gets stuck he can look at how it goes together, Its basically like one small jigsaw.

Looks a pretty good set-up.it can also be an expensive jigsaw if you put some components in wrong. I actually have that mobo. I love it. Im actually about ready to rewipe and start fresh. I own all Asus boards because of the reliability. I havent had any problems with the system at all. One thing i recently learned while surfing. I will never use StumbleUpon on Firefox again. Its a haven for spyware. its a pretty cool extension but from now on if i use it it will be on my imac. Thats the reason im rewiping.

I agree with the others in here. You can get a 300 gig drive for under a hundred and if you were going to the RAID route i would use (2) 250 gig drives. I saw them(maxtor, now seagate) for 59 dollars after rebates. So for 120 bucks you get a nice 500 gig system, not bad.

One thing i should mention, especially for a first timer. The one thing that always tripped me up was the power connections on the mobo.Power, reset, etc. Make sure you get the connections properly installed or your system wont start. These will most likely be on the very edge of the board. If you need an exact match, you are lucky i have the exact board as you, i can send you a pic of what it should look like. Lemme know

Good Luck

RichQuote

AM2 CPU's are out now, if you go for amd make sure you get an AM2 Chip,

I heard the New intel Chips are infact better than the AMD one's so you might want to look at what intel has to offer

Monitors give you headaches because of refresh rate (does not equal frames per second), and if your eyes are too close, tiring your close-vision muscles.

At that resolution I'm not sure, but one will definately be more than enough for 1280x1024, and probably enough for 1600xwahtever. You don't HAVE to always run at max resolution, by the way

I'm not too sure about how these duel cards work, but perhaps it would be possible for you to just buy one, see what it's like, and then buy another one if you feel it is required?-TV programs are usually only 25FPS because thats all u need to enjoy them. When ur playing a game at 25FPS, u can see a huge difference.

If he wanted to play at 1280x1024 the he should have bough a 17" monitor. Buying a 20"+ monitor ISNT a good idea unless u want to play old games or have 2 cards, and even then its still hard. Once Quad-SLi gets better known it might become a better idea. But if u buy a 24" monitor ur screwed, cause there is nothing that can give u 60FPS at 25x17 with any EYE candy.Track, why would it be so difficult to just play on a lower resolution using a 20" monitor? They do not have to work at maximum you know. Especially if it is a CRT; it's only LCD that don't look so good when not at native resolution.Quote

Track, why would it be so difficult to just play on a lower resolution using a 20" monitor? They do not have to work at maximum you know. Especially if it is a CRT; it's only LCD that don't look so good when not at native resolution.

So you're saying with one 7900GTX I can play those games on all HIGH and on the res. of a 21inch monitor? Is it possible with 1 7900GT?

Quote

So you're saying with one 7900GTX I can play those games on all high and on the res. of a 21inch monitor? Is it possible with 1 7900GT?

I was talking to this person ^^^. He has not specified his type of monitor.

We've all kind of gathered that you're rich and can afford the best of the best, so you don't need to keep reminding us about it. Because we don't care.

whats up, im having a problem with my pc lately. i have been experiencing drastic drops in my frames per second on a frequent basis (ie: it will be running CS perfectly at 70-90 fps, and 2 minutes later, will dive to 10 fps for 15 seconds or so. it will then lock up for a second or two, and come back running at 70-90. it will do this in frequent cycles of one or two minutes) i thought it might be a problem with my videocard, but i am running an AOpen 6800gt that has been flawless up to this point. i have a feeling my pc may be infected, but i was WONDERING if anyone might know the exact cause. i have had the system for about 6 months, i defrag regularly, and scan with Grisoft AVG virus protection (which turns up nothing).

if it is a virus, can anyone direct me to a comprehensive means of fixing my problem?

for reference im running: AMD Athlon 64 3700+, 1 gig RAM, AOpen 6800gt, asus sli motherboard, seagate 7200rpm HD

again, it has run flawlessly up until a month ago or so, so i dont believe it is the hardware

any help would be much appreciated, thanks

rolorolodexA....... You might try rebooting into safe mode and running your AV from there and see if anying turns up ...... FAILING that turning up anything , you should run a scan whith hijack this and post the logfile here for us to have a look at ..........
hijackthis ...... http://www.majorgeeks.com/download3155.html


dl65
other things to check include, of course, running lavasoft adware and/or spybot to make sure you don't have sh*tware slowing you down. ALSO, check your computer temps and clean out the inside with a can of air to make sure your fans aren't clogged with dust.true, thanks...im running hijack this as i type

appreciate it guysLogfile of HijackThis v1.99.1
Scan saved at 1:23:43 PM, on 8/4/2006
Platform: Windows XP SP2 (WinNT 5.01.2600)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP2 (6.00.2900.2180)

Running processes:
C:\WINDOWS\System32\smss.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\winlogon.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\services.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\lsass.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\Explorer.EXE
C:\WINDOWS\system32\spoolsv.exe
C:\Program Files\Common Files\Real\Update_OB\realsched.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\RUNDLL32.EXE
C:\Program Files\AIM\aim.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVGFRE~1\avgamsvr.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVGFRE~1\avgupsvc.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\CTsvcCDA.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\nvsvc32.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exe
C:\Program Files\WinRAR\WinRAR.exe
C:\DOCUME~1\Chris\LOCALS~1\Temp\Rar$EX00.266\HijackThis.exe

R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://www.bbc.com/
O1 - Hosts: 166.160.72.138 avp.com
O1 - Hosts: 82.131.12.82 ca.com
O1 - Hosts: 59.128.137.168 customer.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 184.34.222.166 dispatch.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 163.11.59.35 download.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 2.214.146.14 downloads1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 42.84.144.16 downloads2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 115.101.43.28 downloads3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 183.23.114.245 downloads4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 23.84.134.201 downloads-eu1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 86.50.89.222 downloads-eu2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 217.57.25.142 downloads-eu3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 111.62.239.242 downloads-eu4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 2.146.247.135 downloads-us1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 105.49.7.39 downloads-us2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 233.48.57.169 downloads-us3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 18.14.218.126 downloads-us4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 148.49.29.143 f-secure.com
O1 - Hosts: 208.169.168.85 ftp.avp.com
O1 - Hosts: 13.139.139.201 ftp.ca.com
O1 - Hosts: 54.250.15.65 ftp.customer.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 148.43.99.198 ftp.dispatch.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 205.128.72.128 ftp.download.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 38.20.17.74 ftp.downloads1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 78.176.42.246 ftp.downloads2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 197.165.1.116 ftp.downloads3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 32.224.214.88 ftp.downloads-eu1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 59.96.155.194 ftp.downloads-eu2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 253.191.1.157 ftp.downloads-eu3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 33.140.242.240 ftp.downloads-eu4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 1.42.12.191 ftp.downloads-us1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 92.17.184.247 ftp.downloads-us2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 54.227.87.204 ftp.downloads-us3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 180.35.9.20 ftp.downloads-us4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 245.32.140.63 ftp.f-secure.com
O1 - Hosts: 154.239.72.112 ftp.grisoft.com
O1 - Hosts: 22.21.238.226 ftp.kaspersky.com
O1 - Hosts: 126.253.214.18 ftp.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 103.46.117.81 ftp.liveupdate.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 126.161.22.90 ftp.liveupdate.symantecliveupdate.com
O1 - Hosts: 8.65.185.238 ftp.mast.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 217.124.61.144 ftp.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 4.88.50.133 ftp.my-etrust.com
O1 - Hosts: 62.144.127.135 ftp.nai.com
O1 - Hosts: 70.16.64.112 ftp.networkassociates.com
O1 - Hosts: 90.230.122.195 ftp.norton.com
O1 - Hosts: 87.128.141.73 ftp.rads.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 76.188.5.62 ftp.sandbox.norman.com
O1 - Hosts: 239.180.180.181 ftp.secure.nai.com
O1 - Hosts: 86.200.183.54 ftp.securityresponse.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 85.187.193.58 ftp.sophos.com
O1 - Hosts: 231.140.219.10 ftp.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 143.188.252.34 ftp.symantecliveupdate.com
O1 - Hosts: 249.56.24.38 ftp.symatec.com
O1 - Hosts: 104.163.135.246 ftp.trendmicro.com
O1 - Hosts: 175.30.250.135 ftp.uk.trendmicro-europe.com
O1 - Hosts: 182.93.200.3 ftp.update.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 86.173.203.72 ftp.updates.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 135.33.168.109 ftp.updates1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 172.18.174.187 ftp.updates2.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 133.73.31.91 ftp.updates3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 117.203.28.160 ftp.updates4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 192.191.140.172 ftp.us.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 103.228.163.220 ftp.viruslist.com
O1 - Hosts: 187.250.108.185 grisoft.com
O1 - Hosts: 97.53.0.78 kaspersky.com
O1 - Hosts: 204.128.202.50 kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 244.53.251.166 liveupdate.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 77.136.149.129 liveupdate.symantecliveupdate.com
O1 - Hosts: 188.91.40.220 mast.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 156.162.184.64 mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 134.23.93.169 my-etrust.com
O1 - Hosts: 110.241.134.192 nai.com
O1 - Hosts: 205.77.17.21 networkassociates.com
O1 - Hosts: 235.121.251.163 norton.com
O1 - Hosts: 252.105.253.152 pandasoftware.com
O1 - Hosts: 163.241.68.125 rads.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 144.7.145.201 sandbox.norman.com
O1 - Hosts: 77.185.26.140 secure.nai.com
O1 - Hosts: 116.29.57.155 securityresponse.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 212.76.246.132 sophos.com
O1 - Hosts: 70.69.110.44 symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 63.76.135.219 symantecliveupdate.com
O1 - Hosts: 215.11.31.33 symatec.com
O1 - Hosts: 215.160.129.60 trendmicro.com
O1 - Hosts: 7.209.99.25 uk.trendmicro-europe.com
O1 - Hosts: 182.27.55.114 update.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 107.194.128.168 updates.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 8.182.12.243 updates1.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 76.211.59.104 updates2.kaspersky-labs.O1 - Hosts: 179.224.44.125 updates3.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 230.216.1.150 updates4.kaspersky-labs.com
O1 - Hosts: 77.210.152.49 us.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 136.35.90.192 viruslist.com
O1 - Hosts: 80.252.135.208 virusscan.jotti.org
O1 - Hosts: 250.56.170.133 virustotal.com
O1 - Hosts: 53.129.140.4 www.avp.com
O1 - Hosts: 178.146.206.97 www.ca.com
O1 - Hosts: 78.191.154.172 www.customer.symantec.com
O1 - Hosts: 101.115.120.145 www.dispatch.mcafee.com
O1 - Hosts: 123.107.199.209 www.download.mcafee.com
O2 - BHO: AcroIEHlprObj Class - {06849E9F-C8D7-4D59-B87D-784B7D6BE0B3} - C:\Program Files\Adobe\Acrobat 5.0\Reader\ActiveX\AcroIEHelper.ocx
O2 - BHO: SSVHelper Class - {761497BB-D6F0-462C-B6EB-D4DAF1D92D43} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.5.0_06\bin\ssv.dll
O2 - BHO: Google Toolbar Helper - {AA58ED58-01DD-4d91-8333-CF10577473F7} - c:\program files\google\googletoolbar2.dll
O2 - BHO: NAV Helper - {BDF3E430-B101-42AD-A544-FADC6B084872} - C:\Program Files\Norton SystemWorks\Norton ANTIVIRUS\NavShExt.dll
O3 - Toolbar: Norton AntiVirus - {42CDD1BF-3FFB-4238-8AD1-7859DF00B1D6} - C:\Program Files\Norton SystemWorks\Norton AntiVirus\NavShExt.dll
O3 - Toolbar: &AMP;Google - {2318C2B1-4965-11d4-9B18-009027A5CD4F} - c:\program files\google\googletoolbar2.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [TkBellExe] "C:\Program Files\Common Files\Real\Update_OB\realsched.exe" -osboot
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [NvCplDaemon] RUNDLL32.EXE C:\WINDOWS\system32\NvCpl.dll,NvStartup
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [nwiz] nwiz.exe /install
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [NvMediaCenter] RUNDLL32.EXE C:\WINDOWS\system32\NvMcTray.dll,NvTaskbarInit
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [AIM] C:\Program Files\AIM\aim.exe -cnetwait.odl
O8 - Extra context menu item: &Google Search - res://c:\program files\google\GoogleToolbar2.dll/cmsearch.html
O8 - Extra context menu item: &Translate English Word - res://c:\program files\google\GoogleToolbar2.dll/cmwordtrans.html
O8 - Extra context menu item: Backward Links - res://c:\program files\google\GoogleToolbar2.dll/cmbacklinks.html
O8 - Extra context menu item: Cached Snapshot of Page - res://c:\program files\google\GoogleToolbar2.dll/cmcache.html
O8 - Extra context menu item: E&xport to Microsoft Excel - res://C:\PROGRA~1\MICROS~2\OFFICE11\EXCEL.EXE/3000
O8 - Extra context menu item: Similar Pages - res://c:\program files\google\GoogleToolbar2.dll/cmsimilar.html
O8 - Extra context menu item: Translate Page into English - res://c:\program files\google\GoogleToolbar2.dll/cmtrans.html
O9 - Extra button: (no name) - {08B0E5C0-4FCB-11CF-AAA5-00401C608501} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.5.0_06\bin\ssv.dll
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: Sun Java Console - {08B0E5C0-4FCB-11CF-AAA5-00401C608501} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.5.0_06\bin\ssv.dll
O9 - Extra button: Research - {92780B25-18CC-41C8-B9BE-3C9C571A8263} - C:\PROGRA~1\MICROS~2\OFFICE11\REFIEBAR.DLL
O9 - Extra button: AIM - {AC9E2541-2814-11d5-BC6D-00B0D0A1DE45} - C:\Program Files\AIM\aim.exe
O9 - Extra button: Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: Windows Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O12 - Plugin for .spop: C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\Plugins\NPDocBox.dll
O23 - Service: AVG7 Alert Manager Server (Avg7Alrt) - GRISOFT, s.r.o. - C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVGFRE~1\avgamsvr.exe
O23 - Service: AVG7 Update Service (Avg7UpdSvc) - GRISOFT, s.r.o. - C:\PROGRA~1\Grisoft\AVGFRE~1\avgupsvc.exe
O23 - Service: Creative Service for CDROM Access - Creative Technology Ltd - C:\WINDOWS\system32\CTsvcCDA.exe
O23 - Service: InstallDriver Table Manager (IDriverT) - Macrovision Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\InstallShield\Driver\11\Intel 32\IDriverT.exe
O23 - Service: iPodService - Apple Computer, Inc. - C:\Program Files\iPod\bin\iPodService.exe
O23 - Service: NVIDIA Display Driver Service (NVSvc) - NVIDIA Corporation - C:\WINDOWS\system32\nvsvc32.exe
avg turned up nothing in safe mode...adaware turned up 83 items, mostly tracking cookies i believe...not sure what to do at this point

and thanks to the two guys who posted...i havent done this in years, and im pretty rusty. thanks for not ripping me apart.Get a firewall, Sygate is nice.
http://www.comcen.com.au/~fed/sygate.zip

Use Hijackthis to remove all the 01 entries.

Re-boot.

Realplayer is like a virus, try using realalternative.

Adobe reader is like a virus, try using foxit.

Norton is like a virus, uninstall it & stay with AVG.

Do you really need those messenger programs?

Hello everyone!

I have a computer that seems to have issues with certain hard drives attached to the Primary IDE as a slave drive. I have had 2 hard drives (160MB and 200MB) that have both had their file systems corrupted on boot up. I have managed to salvage some of the data that was on these hard drives and they are now in a different computer and appear to be working properly. On the computer that the file system issue occurred, I can use a smaller SIZE hard drive (currently a 40MB) with no issues at all.

To all you extremely helpfull people out there, my question is this....

Is there a reason that the larger hard drives are having issues while the smaller drives are not on this computer's Primary IDE? The problem DOES not seem to occur when the larger hard drives are attached to the Secondary IDE as either master or slave. Perhaps there is something that needs changed in the BIOS? Or perhaps I just have a goofy computer that likes to give me headaches.

Any suggestions about this issue are most welcome. Thanks to everyone in advance for their ASSISTANCE with this problem.

Have a great day!!!Operating system? File system? (FAT/NTFS) How long has this happened? Virus scan?System specs along with what Neil asked for would also be helpful...

And someone will be along shortly to assist.

patio. 8-)And, what are the make and model of both computers?

Sounds like you're encountering a BIOS limitation. Here's an article: Hard Drive Size Limitations and Barriers, or see more Google results @ http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=hard+drive+size+limitationSorry, I was out-of-town and just checked in to see the assistance.

Both computers are running XP. One is an AMD 3000+ and the other is an Intel 2.67. NTFS on all hard drives on both computers. The computers are not of any particular make or model as they are assembled from parts (i.e. not purchased from a retail store or online in fully assembled condition). The motherboard on the quirky AMD computer is from MSI and the motherboard on the Intel system is an ASUS.

A virus/spyware/adware scan on both systems is clean.

Here's a new twist to the problem. I RECENTLY ordered another 160MB hard drive and have formatted it with NTFS as well. The format was completed through XP. I have no issue with the recently added 160MB hard drive. However, when I remove that drive and PUT a different one on, I get the same problem as before. Could it be something with the OS or BIOS, that it doesn't like having the hard drives swapped? I will read the suggested article to see if there's any assistance in there. However, with the computer running properly with a freshly formatted 160MB hard drive, I would think the size limitation wouldn't be an issue.

So, to summerize....it appears that the computer has no issues with any size hard drive as long as the hard drive is formatted through Windows. Once the hard drive is replaced, the issues start regardless of whether the replacement hard drive was formatted originally by XP or not.

Thank you all for the assistance with this problem. I will continue to try different things with the computer to see if I can't get it resolved and checking these forums to see if there are any more questions/comments pertaining to this issue.

Thanks again for the help and have a great day!!!

My compter was working fine yesterday. Today when I went to start it up I got this blinking message on my monitor "Self Test- CHECK your PC and Signal Cable - Monitor is working" I checked all the cables to make sure everything was plugged in right. The computer turns on and I can hear the fan and see a light on it, but it does not try to boot up or make any NOISES other than the fan. Also I noticed that the cd and dvd drives will not open.

I need this computer for school in a few weeks. Can somebody please help me?

Windows xp
EmachinesHas it been MOVED, monkeyed with internally or any playing in the BIOS? WHat happened between it didn't work right and now? New programs? Any clues?

It sounds like power supply, MOTHERBOARD or CPU at this point, but we would need to know more about the omputer, age, etc. to guess further.

Have you ever worked on a computer before? Are you wanting to? Or is this best left to your local computer shop?sounds like a power supply issue. you might want to bring it into the shop to get it replaced. or if you know stuff about computers, its pretty easy to replace.Thank You. I was hoping it was something SIMPLE. I will have to take it to get fixedBe sure and post back what it was.

Hello,

I am looking to use my laptop on the grounds at work. I have a laptop with wireless. I loose the signle all of the time and the company won't put another antenna where it will help me. Is there anything I can get for the laptop itself that will enable me to pick up the signle any better. The boss says I don't spend a ton of time out there, but I beg to differ. I need to be connected all of the time.

Can anyone help me??

Thanks,
ME! :-?The boss probably knows best, but you could talk to the IT guys. It shouldn't be up to you to FIX it if it IS necessary (and we STILL haven't established that). Well the IT guys sit on their asses and tell me it's not in the budget. All I want to know is, is there something out there that can help my situation? Some sort of antenna or booster that I can hook to my laptop that would make me be able to do my work on the grounds between buildings. I check chassis in for COMPLETENESS from the factory, there is a lot of forms that i need to fill out, they are all on the laptop and the network. I'd rather not have to print a copy , do my checks then pring the hard copy back inside where the laptop connects just to transfer 10 pages of data.

See where I'm coming from, I'm trying to boost my productivity.

ME!Have a READ through these:

HTTP://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=boost+signal+to+laptop

from time to time, whilst playing movies on my computer (or starting up a DVD) windows will pop up the blue screen errors thing, usually with messages along the line of Bad_pool. i believe this is an error with RAM, but i dont know, and i cannot afford to buy new RAM if its not the problem.

is there a cost free/friendly way around this?

any help is welcome. please help me fix this incredibly ANNOYING problem.
regards,
luke341:

Next time it happens, write down the error CODE (the one that begins with 0x and has eight more numbers or eight more numbers and letters). We can look up the error code and tell you what is likely the CAUSE of the error.

DocYou can download and RUN Memtest and see if the RAM is OK. First run each STICK individually for about an hour, then all together. Removing and reseating RAM chips first is a good idea as well.

www.memtest86.com

my PC will not boot up, but the light comes on naturally by pushing the button. I have replaced the power supply and this did no good. besides the MOTHERBOARD, what ELSE could it be? the computer is a 2003, thanks anybodyPlease post a LOT more information. See below.yes., SORRY that would help, i have an emachine, 2003, 2.4 hgz, 40gb hard drive space 512mb ram it is a w2646 model, the power supply has been replaced, and that is not the problem, i am hoping it is not the motherboardI would next remove all of the drives and any add in cards and see if it will boot with that.

Unfortunately, motherboard would be the next step and that means your restore CD's will probably not work any longer as they search for an eMachine BIOS to load. How old is the machine? By 2003, that could refer to the age, but not sure on that. What power supply did you put in there, and was not powering up the reason for that CHANGE? Did anything happen prior to the difficulty? Power surge?

Hi Everyone,

Looking for opinions here to see if my computer is worth fixing or if I should pay someone to try to get the data out of it and just SCAP the thing and purchase new.

I have a Satellite 5100 running Windows XP. It's about 4 years old. I got a blue screen of death about 6 months ago. The message said: Beginning Physical Dump and then it did a count up. After this I had to shut it off. It worked fine after that.

Two days ago, this happened again. I decided it was too late to restart that night to continue my work.

Yesterday, I was working on it again. It had the same thing HAPPEN. I don't know if it makes a difference but I had just installed McAfee Internet Security 2006. During one of the restarts with the product loaded, I got the blue screen again. I tried to restart and just kept getting the blue screen.

Now when I try to restart, the computer goes through it's test screen with the Toshiba name, the screen goes black, one white blip APPEARS in the upper left corner quickly and then the screen just stays black. One thing I noticed is that the fans do not start now like they usually do when I start it up.

Questions:

If a fan is not working, would it cause these symptoms?

Does the problem sound like it is probably time to invest in a new computer?

Is it possible to have the recent data files taken off this hard drive in some way?

Any opinions are greatly appreciated as I am lost without my PC.

Thank you,
KaderinaQuote

...Questions:

If a fan is not working, would it cause these symptoms?

Does the problem sound like it is probably time to invest in a new computer?

Is it possible to have the recent data files taken off this hard drive in some way?

...

I have comcast cable and an sbc 2wire home portal NETWORKING kit and I would like to use it to connect my sons pc to mine so he can have internet as well. (it's wireless) I have used the 2wire with verizon dsl prior so I think it should work for comcast(i'll just need a number for that) but.....I am not sure how this works.....I've got a cyberpower battery backup that most things are plugged into....
So it would be pc to cable modem to 2wire to cyberpower? Any ideas on how this would work....too many dang cables anymore and i'm gettin confused.

Windows xp sp2
80 gig plus 40 gig hard drive
nvida 3d graphics accellerator
premium sound
cd rw/DVD
cd rom
external dvd rw
1 gig ram
2.0 gig processor
cyberpower is just a battery backup. it has nothing to do with networking. heres what you should have...

MODEM>ROUTER>COMPUTER

simply plug all your power cords from your computer, monitor, router, modem, and any other components into the cyberpower battery backup unit.

if you need any further help with this, or with setting up the software for your wireless adapter, i will be happy to assist you.Yes I know that cyberpower is my battery backup. So cable modem to 2wire, to computer to battery backup. The only thing I need is the number to use to configure 2wier to work with comcast. thanks for your help!i have comcast as well, there shouldn't be any specifics to set up though. i'm assuming this 2wire thing is some sort of router? just plug coax cable into cable modem (this has to be registered with comcast) then ethernet from cable modem to router in, then ethernet or wireless from router out to the pc's. everything can be powered off your battery back up, doesn't matter. what specifically is the problem, connecting the hardware or getting the hardware to work?Quote

Yes I know that cyberpower is my battery backup. So cable modem to 2wire, to computer to battery backup.

So cable modem>eathernet cord>cyberpower>eathernet cord>router>[highlight]usb cord[/highlight]>computer......

Alright, so I put together a new computer for my dad, and I didnt bother to get a sound card because the Asus K8N boasts on-board sound. But for some reason, winxp doesnt SEEM to detect it. Is there something more I need to install software wise? I looked in the Bios, but I didnt find anything about onboard sound being disabled. Speakers are plugged in and TURNED on. When I GO to the sound properties in the control panel, almost everything is grey and in the pulldown bars, which are also grey, "no device" is displayed.

Any Ideas?

THANKS!Did you load the sound drivers from the motherboard CD? You can also try to search for drivers on the ASUS site, if you don't have it.

Without the appropriate drivers installed (and Windows won't fo it by itself) you will never have sound. Haha, yeah, I feel pretty retarded... I installed them off of the mobo cd. They should be labeled better, INSTEAD of the driver name. Or for the discription - "This is for your on-board sound!" But yeah, I got it all figured out. Thanks for the reply. =)

Glad you are all fixed up and not "sound challenged".

If you have a raid0 array, will it work if you move it to a different controller card or computer? Is it different for softraid? How can you tell if it is a softraid or not? I thought MINE was softraid originally, but looking more into it, I am thinking it is hardraid. Thanks.Look in the BIOS to SEE if RAID is enabled. What motherboard? What controller card?Oddly enough, my motherboard has never worked when set to raid in bios. Atleast not seeing my hardrive. I had to look up online how to set it up and it said to set it to non-raid (ata, I think is the option, I can't remember the exact name). I then downloaded the utility on my comptuer (sis raid) that was supposed to be made for my mobo and away I went. I never had any problems with it until recently. Well, THATS not completely true, but close enough. I have Gigabyte 8s648fxp-rz mobo, with a built in SiS controller card, or WHATEVER you would call it if it is built-in. Two Sata150 drives. WD 2500ks-00mjb0. Hope this helps in figuring out my problem, thanks for your help.

whats it mean when a games mini requirements ask for pixel shader vertex shader and 64 mb of texture MEMORY??

my everquest 2 asks me for this kind of video cardStart/Run, type in dxdiag and PRESS ENTER.

What card do you have?i believe my vid card in my grandma's will work but i need to figure out which laptop to GET that can SUPPORT everquest 2What do the game requirements say in terms of cards?

A laptop will never be as good as a desktop for gaming and you will spend thousands of dollars to even come close. i know i just want one that can run it ok

mini requirements for vid card

directx 9 compat

pixel and vetrex shader compat

64mb of texture memory

the story is pretty long, but I will keep it short. I just put in a new graphics CARD (Nvidia Geforce 6800 Xtreme) in my computer. When I run World of Warcraft the graphics are HORRIBLE. The movement is very choppy and I've tried everything I know to do. New drivers, lowering the QUALITY of the card for better performance, and a ton of other things. My synaps have quit firing at this point and I'm very very frustrated. Anyone here have any ideas?Did you remove the previous video drivers first? What kind of card was in there?There was no video card. The computer belong to an old lady and she left it at my cousins computer shop when the motherboard burned out. He replaced that and put more ram in it and voila! new computer for me. I've even lowered the graphics settings in the game and it's still crappy. [/wits]What are ALL the specifics of the machine? We have nothing to work with except a graphics card. It seems likely that there are other issues. See below.I was just told that there may be an onboard graphics processor that needs to be disabled. How do you do that?


and I'm not sure about all the specs. I know the new motherboard is an Asus and that it's a Celeron processor. I'm not that literate though so the rest I'm not sure about.Go into the BIOS and there will be options for disabling onboard video. WHere it is depends on the specific motherboard or manufacturer.

Download and run Everest HOME at the link below and have it make a REPORT. You can post it here and look through it. It will tell tell you virtually everything you will ever need to know about the components. Print it out as well.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlThanks. Now I know everything there is to know about my computer...although I can read it, it might as well be written in Japanese for all the sense it makes. The program says that the onboard graphics processor is disabled so there goes that theory.Feel free to post it here for comments. It may take a couple of posts to get it all.I think we have cornered the problem. The card requires a 500 watt power supply and this computer only came with a 200 watt power supply. How expensive is that?Yours using a 6800 witha 200W PSU

Anything above 50$ should be fine, just know that it is whats keeping ur hardware alive.

I have spent the last couple days doing research and trying to understand everything about the liquid cooling systems for computers. I was just wondering if anyone on here has one setup? If so do you run into alot of headaches or regrets with it? I do alot of gaming on my rig right now and I have been looking to build up a new computer in the comming months. I do have my EYE on a Lian Li case which comes liquid cooled ready just no water blocks and pumps. The case is aluminum of course. I dont know I am just up in the air on this. If you guys can give me some input on liquid cooled setups please do. Thank you I think i'll wait till i can afford central air conditioning for my home before i splurge on cooling my PC this way!

Liquid and electronics seems like a bad combo to me. Im kind of surprised nobody on here is mentioning if they have it. I figured it would be big on this board lol. Ah well a LITTLE more research and I will make a decision I suppose.I don't have it and don't know of anybody who does have it. I go along with GX1_Man, with my luck it would leak, and could just see me trying to explain to my wife what happened! Actually the only part you would have to really WORRY about the leaking might be the radiator. The case I found has one built into the top of the tower (molded in with two fans on top of it) BAH hang on let me just get the link for you guys http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-pc3-426bk-case-black.html The water doesnt actually interact with the actual cpu,ram etc. More so it is just HOSES comming off of the radiator and connecting to water blocking units that surround your graphics cards, cpu's, ram , even harddrive.

I would appreciate any help I can get on this one. I just built my computer and have checked all connections SEVERAL times, reseated everything a few times and verified my PSU is ok with a PSU tester. On powering up my lights come on and my fans start running, but nothing happens, including no beeps. Here is my system:
Asus M2N-SLI motherboard
AMD 3800+ processor
XFX 7900GT VIDEO card
Ultra 550w X2-connect PSU
2 Western Digital 250 GB SATA draives
2 G TWINX PC6400 DDR2 800MHz Corsair memory

I've been told by a coupleof toehr folks that it is likely either my motherbaord, or my processor. Is there a way to tell which it could be? Both components were bought from Newegg very recently.

Thanks for any help. TammyMuch more likely that it is not assembled correctly.

If those are the two options for failure (Mobo and CPU) all you can do is swap them out or RMA them.

My computer might have a virus or maybe some sort of window problem. It decides every so often to change partition information. The first time it happened, I had another harddrive just like it to copy the info from, at it started to work again. This time it happened to my raid drive! I have no idea what the information should be in the window because I have no other references. I get these ERRORS from the two drives in norton partition info"

Disk 4:
Info: End C,H,S values were large drive placeholders.
Actual values are:
0 0 00 0 1 1 07 976784129 0 1 63 976784067
Error #109: Partition ends after end of disk.
ucEndCylinder (976784129) must be less than 1.
Error #116: Starting sector of partition is inconsistent.
ulStartSect = 63
Begin C,H,S = 1
Error #110: Number of sectors in partition is inconsistent.
ucSectors = 976784067
end - begin = 976784129

disk 5:
Info: End C,H,S values were large drive placeholders.
Actual values are:
0 0 00 0 1 1 07 60801 254 63 63 976784067
Error #109: Partition ends after end of disk.
ucEndCylinder (60801) must be less than 30401.

I tried to mess around with disk 4 to make it like disk 5, as it was filled with NOTHING but 0's (like my previous failed drive). This didn't work. I am hoping someone can tell me the information I need to fill out the partition editor info, or to recover my raid 0 set completely. Thank you for you HELP. If any other system information is needed, let me know.

Sincerely,
Ninjafats

additional info: it is a SATA softraid set, Sis mobo, and windows xpi am assuming this is a server?No, it isn't.

I am a audio engineer and use a Raid0 setup to allow me to do large 24bit multitrack mixing sessions, It also boosts my sampler's abilities. Also, it is XP pro, not home, if that would change anything.

Though most people would think it was a server to look at it.I TOOK it to a shop to get it fixed....payed the man, got it back, little changed. I still can't get to my harddrive. Please, if anyone knows how to get data off a broken raid0 array, let me know. Also, I don't know for sure if it is a softraid instead of a hardraid. I thought I knew, now I am not so sure.

NI'd call the guy back if you paid your cash and it didn't get resolved. Did he claim he had fixed the problem? What did he say the issue was?It was $20 just to look, so he told me in advance that it would cost that much either way. He said he had got the drive(s) to work. I am hesitant to take it back there, and am even worried that he may have messed things up further. Who knows. My one drive is showing 0mb capacity, is there any solution for that? I ran WD disc diagnostic and it came back with nothing wrong, so it isn't dead! (hurray, I guess) I found a program that will recover a raid0 partition, but since it sees the one drive as 0mb capacity, it won't work!!! Any help would be appreciated. The dude who took my 20 bucks says I should reinstall windows.... isn't that only for people who can't fix problems? I only reinstall as a last effort, and I don't even know if it would FIX this situation! Well, it may COME to it if I can't fix this 0mb capacity thing. I can't take it out and test it in another computer, since none of my other computers have raid or sata hardware. Bios sees it as its full amount, as does the diagnostic program (windows and norton do not). Just for the heck of it, I am currently running a check on the other drive out of the array, since I have no clue what I am looking for/doing, it doesn't hurt to try everything sometimes (As long as it isn't destructive).The reason I would never even consider RAID is that a hardware failure can be disastrous.

If you can reload Windows (and I'm not sure you easily can - that depends on the hardware) then I would do so. I don't feel a reinstall is a sign of failure. Sometimes it can be a lot quicker than trying to fix a FUBAR'ed installation, and is much more likely to work. Others like to try to cobble together a patch, but....I wouldnt' hesitate to reinstall windows to fix the problem, but I really don't think that is the issue. I didn't like the failure issue with raid0 to begin with, but i needed the space and read speed. In retrospect, I should have made a mirror, but I don't know if that would have fixed the problem. I have the feeling that it was a virus, as it seems to be a partition problem, not a HDD problem. I ran the WD diagnostic program and everything came up clean, unfortunately, this meant that WD couldn't officially help me, as "it wasn't a problem with their hardware"...jerks. If I redo the MBR that would essencially mess up any chances of recovering my raid, wouldn't it? I don't really know if it would help. I also thought of using a partition repair program, but I dont' think they are designed for raid. The other reason I am hesistant to reinstall windows is that it may not read my raid then, since it is possible software (with drivers needed)..I'm not sure how that works, but then again, it isn't really reading my raid now. Thanks for help, any more would be great, especially if anyone knows how to fix that 0Mb capacity issue.

Time to retire my beast. I have been looking online for a new laptop and I see a lot that I like, but my search has turned up relatively little regarding notebooks that are rated for 3-d modeling and CAD capabilities. Does anybody know of any laptops that are particularly good for handling these applications? Or any websites that discuss such computers? I'm not looking for a powerhouse or anything, just a machine that will handle decently with 3-d studio and AutoCAD. And perhaps the most IMPORTANT question is, do they have a payment plan? I don't think I can chop that tree down with one swing, though I might be able to manage in three or four swings.Maybe one of those nice Dell Precision models?CHAT with a tech support guy from each company and ask them what notebook they recommend for this activities My notebook needs are pretty different than yours, but I'll second GX1_Man's suggestion that you look at the Dell Precision models. With what you're asking for, I'd think maybe either the M70 or M90 might be worth looking into.

For what it's worth, I don't buy notebooks to compete with desktops, so I go for cheap and light, rather than super powerful. Never made much sense to me to spend a fortune on a notebook, which has a much better chance of being banged up in your travels or even RIPPED off. Therefore, I might not be speaking to your needs very well. Recently, though, I've been looking hard at the Precisions. since a hurricane evacuation with a big FAT CPU in the trunk got real old, real fast. I've never been able to stand Dell desktops, but their notebooks have always seemed to work very reliably.

Last point: In keeping with my "buy it cheap" philosophy, I've bought three Dell notebooks as refurbs over the years - from the Dell Outlet Store, not a third party vendor. Each time, the thing worked like a champ and was reasonably well supported by Dell. Before writing this, I went and took a look at M70's at the Outlet, and found a few in the $1300-1400 range that looked pretty nice. Might be worth a look. Of course, someone else might have horror stories about Dell refurbs. Maybe I've been just very lucky. But they seem to be pretty carefully prepared before being sold. Might save you a few bucks.I have used Dell refurbs without incident. Same as new warranty. I'll admit I'm a little biased against dell (maybe it's those stupid commercials) but I'll check it out. My HP laptop was refurbished, too, though I bought it through u-bid. It has had a couple of issues since I bought it which I never addressed with the manufacturer, though I should have. As long as the warrantee is good on a new one, I think I'll be alright; mine only had 90 days. I've heard and agree with all of the arguments for desktops over notebooks, but I'm a traveling man, so despite all of those great reasons, a desktop just won't work for me.

Despite all of my laptop's little gliches and twitches, it has traveled well. I've been around the world with it twice and it has been beaten, squeezed, twisted, doused with dirt and sand, splashed and frozen. I guess you might see why I'm a little attached.

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll check out the Dells.Well, I called Dell and they recommended the XPS, which happens to be about their highest end model. I'm sold, but has anybody heard anything I ought to know about it?

After reformating my pc and instaling windows xp sp2 for some reason i have no sound, the Sound Card is not recognized and whenever my coputer should make a sound it just BEEPS.
Do i need to instal drivers for it, if so how do i no what make/modle it is ?Download and RUN Everest Home and find out the sound card. You can post ithe make and model here and we will help you find the drivers.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlUseing that program under "PCI / PnP Audio"
it shows "VIA AC'97 enhanced audio CONTROLLER"
is that the right thing?What is the computer MANUFACTURE and model and the motherboard make/model listed?And did you by chance re-install the sound drivers from your MBoard CD ? ?

PATIO. 8-)

My sons COMPUTER (HP Pavilion a1101n) has experienced a problem that when turned on the fan runs on high then slows down and will not boot. I have switch the power supply with his brothers computer (exact MATCH) and this did not solved the problem. I also switch hard drives thinking it may have been a windows issue (windows xp) but with no luck either. If I try the on off switch many times it will boot one of those times, but only after many pushing of the on off button. When it does boot up the fans all run at a high speed. I am at a total lost and would like a little guidance on this. I forget to mention that the inside of the unit when we opened it was extermely dusty. I know that this is not a expensive unit and I am just trying to FIX it cheaply to keep my son happy.

Thanks
A Puzzle Daddo not SWAP harddrives, that will NOT work. also, buy a can of compressed air and clean that comp out. and yes, you have to buy air, the air that comes out of your lungs is full of moisture and will possibly damage some of the comps components. another thing to try, is to unplug all the cords coming from the power supply and going into the motherboard. clean the contacts with a dry cloth.

it might also be the power button itself, see if you can get a replacement.Another cheap easy fix you can try is to replace the CMOS battery...bout the size of a dime and located on the motherboard.
Available at any RADIO Shack/computer store.
Take ESD precautions and make sure the power supply is unplugged from the wall.

patio. 8-)

I have a few querys about me upgrading my computer. I am going to be getting a new Asus motherboard, and I am not sure what processor to get. At the moment I have a Amd sempron 2800+, will I be able to install this in my new motherboard? I think it only supports amd athlon or sempron, does this mean I cant get a pentium 4 processor? Also, if i do get a new processor, Do I have to buy the heat sync seperately or does it come with the processor? (I am worried about installing a heat sinc then going wrong)

One last thing , Im getting a new motherboard to support my new Nvidia geforce 7950 and I was wondering what would be the best system spects to runs this on? like the processor speed, power supply, and RAM.

ThankyouQuote

I have a few querys about me upgrading my computer. I am going to be getting a new Asus motherboard, and I am not sure what processor to get. At the moment I have a Amd sempron 2800+, will I be able to install this in my new motherboard? I think it only supports amd athlon or sempron, does this mean I cant get a pentium 4 processor? Also, if i do get a new processor, Do I have to buy the heat sync seperately or does it come with the processor? (I am worried about installing a heat sinc then going wrong)

One last thing , Im getting a new motherboard to support my new Nvidia geforce 7950 and I was wondering what would be the best system spects to runs this on? like the processor speed, power supply, and RAM.

ok, now one last query. Im thinking of getting the AMD Athlon 64 3200+ (64-Bit) CPU , would you consider this fast? if not, then what other model (amd athlon) should i get? I am willing to spend a little higher

ok, now one last query. Im thinking of getting the AMD Athlon 64 3200+ (64-Bit) CPU , would you consider this fast? if not, then what other model (amd athlon) should i get? I am willing to spend a little higher

Quote

<snip>

AMD Athlon 4200+ X2 64-Bit, AMD Athlon FX-60.

It depens on what socket u have, but a dual core is a must.

I have a dell desktop running XP with a Nvidea GeForce FX 5500 and I'm TRYING to connect my video card to my tv. My tv only has a coax input so I have to connect s-video to my computer. Then connect the s-video to an rf converter to connect to the coax on my tv. But the display on the tv SUCKS. When I try to play a video in windows media player, it plays fine on the computer monitor, but doesn't EVEN play on the tv. Can anyone please help me with this issue? I would greatly appreciate it.No need to post your question in more than one thread...

Actually on occasion i've seen it slow down replies.

patio. 8-)Describe more of the problem. What do you mean when you say the display "sucks"?Well I can see pictures and the background just fine. But the icons and wording is very blurry, actually unreadable. ALSO, video won't even play on the tv but will on the computer.Quote

No need to post your question in more than one thread...

Actually on occasion i've seen it slow down replies.

patio. 8-)

hey guys

i Just brought a USB 2.0 n i have plugged it in my PCI

I got Window XP

n from where i got the USB 2.0 DA man said it will install da driver automatically

now the problem is tht

wen ever i Plug my cam

i get sme message

have look @ da pic




can U guys tell me y it says unused port even thugh it is in use n it doesn't GIVE me high speed

plz sme 1 help

thxz in advance
Can you give us any hints about da operating system, da computer itself, and if you installed da drivers?i have winxp i think it installs driver automaticallyQuote

i have winxp i think it installs driver automatically