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Hi.

I have 3 computers here, all of which are now using N band adapters to run broadband supplied by a G band router. While Ive heard that G is meant to be compatible with N, it suffers in the reliability department, so I am thinking of getting an N band router.

There are so many available that I dont really know where to start looking for one - any advice would be welcomed. I didnt know whether to put this post here or in the network section, so please feel free to move it.

Cheers guys. Quote from: Feenix on June 17, 2013, 10:01:33 AM

...
1. While Ive heard that G is meant to be compatible with N, it suffers in the reliability department, so I am thinking of getting an N band router.

2. There are so many available that I dont really know where to start looking for one - any advice would be welcomed. I didnt know whether to put this post here or in the network section, so please feel free to move it.
...

I have an all in 1 pc (dell vostro 330) - the screen is not responding all tho the pc does make the usual noises when starting up. Went to connect it to an external screen to see if it was working ok and discovered it doesn't seem to have any ports to connect to any other screen !!!!! Now don't know what to do to test it. Any help would be great! thanksThey make USB VGA adapters which are not too expensive. But it sounds like the display itself is probably toast and if the USB VGA adapter requires more than just Plug n Play to get it to work such as going through a driver installation with choices you might not be able to get that far.

Below is an example that claims easy to install etc. Nothing you would want to play video games through though. They also make USB to HDMI external video adapters.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815296005thanks, i didn't know about those - very useful! Am now thinking it could be the hard drive as although it starts up - i don't think the hard drive lights are flashing . Could be a main BOARD of the system if no post. I'd attempt to boot it off of a live linux distro such as Mint or Ubuntu to see if it will boot off of the DVD rom, if the DVD Rom has lots of activity with the disc in it and still no picture then the display is shot, otherwise if it was just a bad hard drive, this live linux disc bypasses the need for a hard drive and the system will boot to linux and show on the display if it was jus the hard drive all along. *For the fact that nothing is displayed on boot and no error messages then your dealing with a main board issue or a display issue. If you can see if it will try to boot that Linux Live DVD in the DVD Rom, at least we would know that the main board is probably fine and its just the display.ok, sounds like a good idea - can you recommend where i could get one? Do i have to buy it or can i make one? thanks for your help - i've never heard of doing that before so wouldn't have been able to try it! ok, have found it online and am making a disc. thanksok, well, made disc and tried it - it definitely was SPINNING and sounded like it was working ok but no change in computer. nothing on the display - like its turned off. i don't know if the computer was set to boot from disc as i haven't messed about with it before as it was working pretty good.

is there anything else you think i could try to help with diagnosis?

feeling glum

i think i'll have to TAKE it to a professional but am pretty skint! Will miss it as we use it all the time.have found a refurb motherboard on ebay, but can't buy anything til i know whats actually wrong. http://www.dell.com/support/troubleshooting/us/en/04/KCS/kcsarticles/articleview?docid=266435

http://www.dell.com/support/troubleshooting/us/en/04/Product/vostro-330
As soon as you press the power-on button, keep tapping the F2 key to enter Setup (BIOS). If you get nothing on the screen, probably motherboard failure.Or it could be the vid chip...or the LCD connector...Many all-in-ones & laptops no longer have video chips (GPU). AMD calls them APU's which is CPU+GPU inside 1 device. Intel i-series is the same.
All-in-ones are a lot like laptops with no main battery. PSU is same as laptop but with more capacity. Been using one lately, display is large, sharp & clear. Very LITTLE fan noise.i have found it really good up to now . i'm inclined to think that it's not a display issue as the normal 'i'm doing things' lights don't seem to be coming on. Would that be right? If so i'm thinking it could be a hard drive or motherboard problem?Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 23, 2013, 10:17:38 AM

'As soon as you press the power-on button, keep tapping the F2 key to enter Setup (BIOS). If you get nothing on the screen, probably motherboard failure.'

- already tried that and nothing happened.

I accidentally deleted soundmax during a system cleanup and I don't know how to get audio back. Please help!

Time of this report: 6/24/2013, 12:37:55
Machine name: LOGISTICS-D02
Operating System: Windows XP Professional (5.1, Build 2600) Service Pack 3 (2600.xpsp_sp3_qfe.130503-0418)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: Hewlett-Packard
System Model: HP Compaq nx6310 (RE716US#ABA)
BIOS: KBC Version 58.12
Processor: Genuine Intel(R) CPU T2300 @ 1.66GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory: 1528MB RAM
Page File: 875MB used, 2546MB available
Windows Dir: C:\WINDOWS
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c (4.09.0000.0904)
DX Setup PARAMETERS: Not found
DxDiag Version: 5.03.2600.5512 32bit Unicode

-------------
Sound Devices
-------------
Description:
Default Sound Playback: No
Default Voice Playback: No
Hardware ID:
Manufacturer ID:
Product ID:
Type:
Driver Name:
Driver Version:
Driver Attributes:
WHQL Logo'd:
Date and SIZE:
Other Files:
Driver Provider:
HW Accel Level: Emulation Only
CAP Flags: 0x0
Min/Max Sample RATE: 0, 0
Static/Strm HW Mix Bufs: 0, 0
Static/Strm HW 3D Bufs: 0, 0
HW Memory: 0
Voice Management: No
EAX(tm) 2.0 Listen/Src: No, No
I3DL2(tm) Listen/Src: No, No
Sensaura(tm) ZoomFX(tm): No
Registry: OK
Sound Test Result: Not run

---------------------
Sound Capture Devices
---------------------Re-install the SoundMax drivers and re-boot...

how do i connect 2 external monitors to my LAP top one through vga other hdmi i have a AMD Radeon™ HD 6300M graphics card i have the one though hdmi on but when i turn on the vga one it will disconnect the hdmi and the other way around Sis you say the OS is Windows 7?

Normally a two monitor thing with a laptop is one external monitor and the internal screen.
Does you documentation say OTHERWISE? What is the model of the laptop. The model number of the graphics is not enough. It is all about implementation.
But did you see this:
HTTP://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ei58JE63jcw
He uses a special adapter off of the USB port.

I have my laptop monitor and and a separate monitor connected via hdmi. I would like to have a third monitor as well. I had planed on using my vga port for that monitor. I have the Asus a52j laptop running windows 7Doesn't support DUAL monitors...As said above, you can't use two external monitors with that laptop. The VGA and HDMI port are shared internally, so you can only use one at a time.

Hello
I just want to know if this ITEM on Ebay include the LCD screen for my Galaxy S2 i9100. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Digitizer-Touch-Screen-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S-2-I9100-/270992154765
The glass is not broken. It's the LCD screen that is broken.

I LOOKED some info on digitizer and LCD screen and glass because I was confused between all of these, and now I more confused than ever

Thanks


P.-S.: Sorry for my bad English From the listing:
Quote

Package Includes:
1 x Touch Digitizer+LCD Display Screen for Samsung Galaxy S 2 I9100

Im TRYING to figure out what computer this is so I can get the drivers I need but, all I can see is this on it Soyo SY-55SMHave you tried running Speccy? That should tell you what motherboard model you have.

http://www.piriform.com/speccyThat's a Third WORLD MBoard release and unless you speak Farsi and 7 other Indian dialects you may not have much luck...
Where on Eearth do you consistently find this stuff ? ?Its one of those units that I was given to get rid of an I had pulled the drive from another unit an was going to set this up as a NETWARE client but, I DIDNT know the drive had it on. I didnt want to install anything on the unit since I dont have all the drivers but, yes it would ID all about it but, its running 98

I have a total budget of $600.00 to spend on a new laptop. I can't go over. I must have Windows 7 or 8 OS, and would LIKE Microsoft WORD (but all of Office is not necessary).

Please keep in mind that durability is the key here! I still have a PC from 1999 that operates effectively although it is extremely slow compared to today's models. I have only fixed that computer for viruses so have not needed parts even.

So, with the first paragraph in mind, which laptop is built to last the longest?Well, what was the none you had?
I will guess nit was an IBM think pad.
Now LENOVO, still a great choice.



About $500.
You said reliability, that is what you get. No frills. Any effort to improve performance either UPS the price or dips the quality.

I've got a laptop that's been shelved for a while (a few years). As you may have guessed the battery is not functional. I can buy a new one but I want to be sure (ish) that the battery is the PROBLEM. Windows doesn't recognise the battery as being present but is that just because the battery is so far gone that it can't be electricaly detected? My knowledge on laptop batteries is some what out of date but as far as I'm aware there is no microchip in the battery. It is just a collection of battery cells in a pretty case.

So heres what I know:
1) Battery discharged for years
2) Windows does not detect battery
3) CHARGING light on laptop breifly illuminates when the battery is connected

I'm fairly certain that a new battery will remedy the problem but I could do with a SECOND opinion.

It's a HP Compaq 6715b laptop. Replacment bat: http://www.laptopbatteriesexpress.co.uk/13044-175-p.aspQuote from: Accessless on June 25, 2013, 12:27:06 PM

I've got a laptop that's been shelved for a while
...
3) Charging light on laptop breifly illuminates when the battery is connected
...
I'm fairly certain that a new battery will remedy the problem but I could do with a second opinion.

My knowledge on laptop batteries is some what out of date but as far as I'm aware there is no microchip in the battery. It is just a collection of battery cells in a pretty case.

I am currently running a triple monitor setup and can run almost all of my games with them, but there are some that I can't. I have one Radeon 7950 3gb and an Intel Core i5-2400 @3.1ghz. One of the games I would like to run is Battlefield 3. I think that I am unable to run the BF3 because of my processor so if I were to overclock my processor up to 3.4ghz would that be enough? If so I currently just have the stock cpu fan on so I would need to get a cpu fan so if someone could recommend a cheap quality fan. Also would getting an SSD help?If the game works fine on a single monitor then your problem is most likely your GPU and not your CPU. Your CPU should have plenty power to run games, while overclocking will improve performance your CPU has a locked MULTIPLIER so cannot be safely overclocked.What resolution monitors do you have?
When you say you can't run it - do you mean you can't, as in it won't run at all, or you can't, as in it plays but the frame rate is too low for a good EXPERIENCE?
An SSD will not help your framerates in 99.9% of cases, it will help you load the game and everything ELSE faster but won't affect processing power.I would think heavy gaming on 3 monitors with any card would be pretty taxing on the card...What I mean is that the game is unplayable and I checked my cpu usage during the TIME and I was at 100% and I am running 5760x1080.Your graphics card has very little hope of running BF3 at that resolution, you'll need at least another card in Crossfire.
Your CPU will then bottleneck the cards, you would need a good 4.2-4.4GHz to really push the frames.
As Cameron says, your CPU is multiplier locked, so it will only go up to I believe 3.8GHz (the max turbo frequency) which will be better, though not ideal.Ok so how much of a differnce would I notice with the cpu @3.8ghz? (not just in bf3, but overall)5 to 8 %...In terms of pure CPU power - the difference in speed, so 11%. In non-CPU limited tasks, nothing, because the CPU isn't holding you back all the time. So as patio says, you could expect on average around 5-8% difference in performance.

hi IM trying to install a new graphics card, and there are 2 black and white wires attatched to my old one, how do i remove those wires and what would i atatch them to ?
Do you have a PICTURE of this at all? It could be SEVERAL things, from PCI-E power connectors to audio/SPDIF connectors.aha HEY again, ILL try to install it again tonight with the new power supply, if no luck i'll post pics for you man

lol must be too long i GUESS ... and okay disregard the slot question .. recommend running on basic 21" standard monitor, or hooking up to hdtv 32" ? .. and im aware im posting ALOT of stuff so sorry about the bulk of questions Here's a decent quad core, mATX motherboard that will fit your case, and 8GB of DDR3 for $240 plus shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113333
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233192
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128578awesome thanks manive also had the worst night ever trying to get this thing WORKING. I put in the new card and powersupply and the computer would start up and shut down in about 2 seconds. I then rewired some stuff and put in my old card, it now boots up but regardless of the setting i choose (safe mode, last succesful recovery, etc.) it just goes to a black screen with my cursor. I also cannot get it to respond to f11 at the start up screen to perform a system recovery. I dont have the vista DISK so i cant reinstall that way. any POSSIBLE fix ?

.. ill post this as a question on the forum if it helps and i tried ooking at other fixes but they dont work on mine.

okay ive tried for hours to get this thing going but i just cant. So i bought a new graphics card and power supply, I put in the new card and powersupply and the computer would start up and shut down in about 2 seconds. I then rewired some stuff and put in my old card, it now boots up but regardless of the setting i choose (safe mode, last succesful RECOVERY, etc.) it just goes to a black screen with my cursor. I ALSO cannot get it to respond to f11 at the start up screen to perform a system recovery. I dont have the vista DISK so i cant REINSTALL that way. any possible fix ?What model is you PC? It is a desktop, -right?
What stuff did you repair? Fried wires?
This PC has a COA product key for Vista?
If you have a second PC, and can get on the Internet, you get a copy of Vista equal to the one you had.

Let's say it was a Dell Inspiron, of something like that.

The above is a DVD for sale by somebody for under $25. But it requires you to have a Dell COA. Otherwise it will not help much.
Also, VISTA DVDs for HP are available.
The alternative is to download a copy from a legal SERVER. You still have to have the Dell COA.
Better yet, borrow a copy from a friend that has the same brand. If you have the product key, it is legal to borrow a DVD from somebody. But only if it is for the same brand.
Does that help any?

If you decide to buy a Vista DVD at retail, consider getting Windows 7 instead.

I have a Toshiba Qosmio G35-AV600 Laptop that was given to me in used running condition, BUT the display has a few verticle hairlines on it. Plugged VGA out into VGA monitor and the lines are only on the laptops display so the display must be the cause.

This laptop is a nice laptop with exception to the lines, but I am only willing to put up to $50 in parts into it and I found a display replacement, but it costs far beyond what this laptop is worth at a cost of $305 after shipping as seen here: http://www.amazon.com/Glossy-Screen-Toshiba-Qosmio-G35-AV600/dp/B0084H6UU0/ref=pd_cp_pc_0

Was going to contact the seller to see if they would take $50( shipping included) to get rid of this display for a 2006 model laptop which most people probably wouldnt bother replacing due to its age, but dont see that option on amazon like ebay has where you can contact the seller and make offers. $305 is a crazy price TAG when $305 is almost the cost of a new laptop that is far more powerful than the Core 2 Duo T2400 1.83Ghz CPU.

Worst comes worst, I can get buy with the lines, but would be nice to fix this inexpensively since its not worth much today compared to its $2400 price tag when it was new!

In addition to this issue, the battery pack is also just about shot. If its unplugged from an outlet its dead in about 10 minutes after a full charge. Not going to bother with bettery replacement which is unnecessary since I can get by with using it when its plugged in vs wasting money.

Figured I'd post this in case anyone knows of a good cheap place to buy old obsolete laptop displays.

The display is a 17" WXGA+ Glossy LCD CCFL B0084H6UU0Let me say you have four problems, not just one.
It is a 17 inch display, more costly.
You want to replace it yourself.
You imagine you can get it for $50.
The battery is shot.

A laptop with a bad battery is not very portable.
Why not just confine it to your desk and use it with your external monitor?
Sorry, I can't help any.

Quote

Worst comes worst, I can get buy with the lines, but would be nice to fix this inexpensively since its not worth much today compared to its $2400 price tag when it was new!

Do the lines really annoy you?

New 17" WXGA+
Laptop LCD Screen
for Toshiba Qosmio G35-AV600
$132.87

Hi All,
I have a flat screen TV that hangs on the wall. It is connected to a desktop computer that hangs on the other side of the wall. This computer has a thumb drive that uses bluetooth to connect to a logitec keyboard and mouse. So what I have in order is a desktop connected to the TV and USING bluetooth though the wall to connect to a keyboard and mouse. All of this works good and without problems.

Here is the issue. Every now and than I get visitors who want to connect to the flatscreen TV with a laptop. The ROOM where the keyboard and mouse is a conference room. So they want to just be able to plug into something and bring up there screen onto the flatscreen.

Does anyone have a way to get this done with taking apart the curent setup?

Thanks
Most Flat Screen TV's which can be used as monitors support multiple inputs. If you had say an HDMI # 2 available, you could use this device: HDMI Wireless Extender with a laptop with HDMI out... but for laptops that only have VGA out, you WOULD NEED to convert the VGA to HDMI with an analog to digital video converter prior to the wireless HDMI units.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3AU1Y/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0081TYMCE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=145B28RRV7BW9CF00H7Z

So if your TV has more than one input with an available HDMI port, and you have a large budget it can be done. You would just need to plug the laptop in and switch the TV to Input #2 VS Input #1 etcHi,
This looks like something I could try. Thanks!

Whenever I unplug the computer altogether, press the power button to get any power out of it, plug it back in, and power it up, it gets to the operating system just fine. When I shut it down and turn it back on, however, it hangs on the BIOS screen. Do any of my fellow computing fans have any suggestions? I am hoping this will not require replacing the power supply unit or any other components. I would like to have this computer working flawlessly before selling it, and this is the last major problem that I can find with it. Thank you for your time!Quote

I am hoping this will not require replacing the power supply unit or any other components.

Hello everyone

I own an Epson SX435 and, a week or two ago, I managed to get a perfectly good pair of earphones ingested by said printer. I thought I had solved the problem and freed the printer of the earphones (though I had to execute them in the process), but, since then, the print heads have been misaligned (I think). Here's what my print-outs look like, nicely exemplified by a Turkish couscous recipe.

http://i42.tinypic.com/16lfwps.jpg

I have tried the print head realignment option, but it has actually just made the problem worse. Here is what print-outs now look like after realigning the print heads.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2urqj3t.jpg

Can anyone help me out, or am I going to have to give up and shell out £100 for a new one? I'd really rather not; I've already had to pay for new earphones

Thanks!Looks like its losing its position on the 2nd pass. Inkjets lay down a first pass of dots and then a 2nd pass to define the print BETTER. The print head and ink cartridges that ride on a metal rod are losing position and causing this offset that you see.

The last time I saw a similar issue it was dry ink on the linear guide rod that the print head moves back and forth on which the print head was getting hung up on. But in your case it may be a chipped gear tooth that is causing it to sometimes stay aligned and other times jump a tooth and lose its home position and cause the 2nd pass per line offset.

If you can see the metal rod, with power off, verify that the printers guide rod is free of any grime or dry ink. I ended up WIPING the rod down with rubbing alcohol to remove the dry ink that was causing a printer to bind. But yours may have to be replaced due to a chipped plastic gear tooth. (* Also if you tip the printer, be careful to do this over news paper or something to catch any ink as for I have heard of people tipping inkjets and ink dripping out on their hands and carpet that just happened to be beige. There is a small pad inside that the printer uses when it performs a print head cleaning and purges dry ink etc, and over a period of time this pad is super saturated and cant hold additional ink, so the ink pools. The most drastic heavily used ink jet I ever seen actually had a stalagmite of dry ink in this waste compartment extending up from the sponge.)

* UPDATE: I found a picture of your printers print head assy and I'd also check the tractor belt for damaged or missing teeth. This is the belt that is looped that the print head is driven by.

[RECOVERING disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Sorry 'bout your headphones...you need a new printer.

Hi

Following a SMART event notification: "A hard drive is indicating it might fail", I've run DiskCheckUp which indicates a Reallocated Sector Count Fail, Value 42, Threshold 50, Raw Value 1963.

I'm using a Dell Inspiron 1525, Windows VISTA, Toshiba Hard Drive MK3265GSX.

Should I be backing up somehow and replacing the HDD, or is it reparable?

Many thanks
Alex

Your hard drive has bad sectors and checkdisk remapped the data in those sectors to other areas on the drive, marking the bad sectors as unusable in the future. It's possible your drive will be fine for QUITE a while, but it is more likely to fail than a drive that has not been identified with bad sectors. To be on the safe side, there's no harm in replacing the drive. If you keep it, just run chkdsk /r on a regular basis. If it reports that it continues to find and repair more bad sectors, then replace the drive immediately.Many thanks Allan

I ran DiskCheckUp again today and Reallocated Sector Count is down to 13 so I guess that means imminent HDD fail? Would really appreciate any pointers on how to copy everything (BIOS, OS, Office etc) from existing HDD to a new one.

All the best
AlexIf it is showing that it's still remapping data then yes, you should replace the drive. Easiest way to BACK up everything is with disc imaging software (which EVERYONE should use on a regular basis) - and by the way - you don't back up the bios - that's not stored on the hard drive. Here is something I put together a while ago to explain everything:

Disk Imaging software takes a "snapshot" of your drive as it exists at the time you create the image. You can then restore the entire image or any file(s) or folder(s) you choose. It is a virtually foolproof way of backing up your system and providing a safe haven in the event of a catastrophe that requires you to blow away your system partition and restore it to a previous state. It also allows you to "test" various software and be confident that you have a the ABILITY to return to the prior state any time you choose.

I use Acronis True Image. It is the best of breed, but it isn't free. The best free alternative is Macrium Reflect.

1) I create an image of my system partition once a week to a second hard drive and keep the 2 or 3 most recent images. I also image my other partitions about once a month. I always enable "verify image" in the options. It takes a little longer, but insures a valid image.

2) I also create an image before performing any drive level function (ie, changing the size of a partition) or making any significant change to the OS (installing a service pack, upgrading IE, etc). Also sometimes before installing new software.

3) Images may be created on any medium (cd, dvd, external drive, etc). For obvious reasons they should not be stored on the same drive you are imaging. The best option is a second internal hd if you have one.

4) Images may be created "in the background" within the OS. If you need to restore the system partition, that will need to be done before the OS loads. You can start the process within the application in the OS and it will then tell you it needs to reboot to finish the process. Alternatively, you can boot to a "recovery disk" which you can create when you first install the software (or to the application disk itself if you have one). Other partitions can be restored without a reboot.Quote from: a_lexsmith on April 23, 2013, 03:01:22 PM

...I ran DiskCheckUp again today and Reallocated Sector Count is down to 13 so I guess that means imminent HDD fail? Would really appreciate any pointers on how to copy everything (BIOS, OS, Office etc) from existing HDD to a new one...

I have an external hard drive that is a few years old. One day it just stopped working. I do not want to pay $300 to have geek squad recover the information. I have read on various websites that i can remove the drive from the case and install it directly into my DESKTOP. The issue im having is that my new desktop uses the SATA and my external hard drive uses the ATA cable. My external hard drive has all of my college work, pictures from 5 years, videos, music, etc. Probably a total of almost 100gigs!!! Any recommendations would be great. I do not want to spend the money to have a pro do it but if that is my only option i understand.

Thanks,
DannyYou can buy an adapter for SATA-ATA I think. That may just be a waste of money though. I fthe HD is damaged it may not work anyway.

I'm not sure about this, but I think taking it out of the external encloser will only help if the enclosure is bad. You can also buy a new enclosure.I heard about that too but couldnt find an enclosure for mine. My brother has an older computer so he may have the ATA hookups so i can try it for free. thanksIf you get it working enough to copy but have problems with errors you can use this program. Roadkills Unstapable Copier

http://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=29

If there is bad sectors it will just skip it and recover what it can rather than error out.
thanks, i may just order one of these and see if i can get it to work from that. What do you think?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002First of all I would try and plug it to your friends computer and make sure it is in workable condition.

Second... You can buy a new external enclosure for the same price or less. If the HD does still work it wont last very long without some sort of protection.

That kind of adapter is for shop use not constant use. if you were going to scrap the HD afterwards then no big deal I guess.yea my external HD is about 4 years old and i want to get one that no longer requires a power cord, so i would hook it up only to transfer FILES off of it and then scrap it. i can get one with more memory now for under $90 I found a cheaper one on ebay for 5 bucks with free shipping. that way i dont have to mess with my friends computer.An alternative is to find such an adapter at Wal-Mart or Best Buy where you can return it if the HD doesn't work.


Its probably wishful thinking to think its the enclosure and not the HD malfuntioning. But I would spend $5 before $300 so go for it.ok, yea my girlfriends brother WORKS at best buy, so i might be able to get a deal there. Thanks again.Quote from: tacoidentity on August 04, 2009, 09:51:21 PM

I have an external hard drive that is a few years old. One day it just stopped working. I do not want to pay $300 to have geek squad recover data from hard drive the information. I have read on various websites that i can remove the drive from the case and install it directly into my desktop. The issue im having is that my new desktop uses the SATA and my external hard drive uses the ATA cable. My external hard drive has all of my college work, pictures from 5 years, videos, music, etc. Probably a total of almost 100gigs!!! Any recommendations would be great. I do not want to spend the money to have a pro do it but if that is my only option i understand.

Thanks,
Danny

GO TO START-->CONTROL PANEL---->Performance and Maintenance--->Administrative Tools--->COMPUTER MANAGEMENT----->on your left side click on disk management. you will see your external hard drive just make it active "right click" hope that solves if not there are other advanced options let me know if the above answer does not solve the problem.
Hope that helps.

Also, this is a 4 year old thread...

Can you tell me how to reset to default my screen only stays on for like seconds.Is there any chance its the monitor?Quote from: ifbatmanwasreal on June 28, 2013, 04:20:43 PM

Can you tell me how to reset to default my screen only stays on for like seconds.

Hello!
I'm new to this community and I just want ask for help to troubleshoot my system.

The problem starts when my PC is on when there was a thunderstorm and suddenly a lightning strikes near our area. It cause our household to brownout and I saw my router and my motherboard sparking during that incident so I immediately PULL off the plug. When power was restored, my PC won't turn on but the LED on my PREVIOUS motherboard(ASUS) is on so I immediately buy a Thermaltake with the same wattage(500W) to replace the damaged power supply

Luckily, my previous motherboard has a surge protection but sad to say, when I am about to render heavy FILES in Maya, my PC spark a little and restart again. so I troubleshoot myself with these steps:

Monitor Heat and Voltage supply with Speccy - I suspect first that the problem was overheating
Replace my motherboard (see below). - I think my motherboard was also damaged
Replace my old video-card with Higher specs (see below) - and so my video card also
Exchange a processor(AM3+) form my friend and reapply thermal paste

But sad to say, when I render again the project. I hear some spark with my new motherboard. and I think that the spark was with the connection with 12V near the CPU.

Here is my latest specs of my system,

Operating System
Windows 7 ULTIMATE 64-bit SP1

CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 250 30 °C
Regor 45nm Technology

RAM
4.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 666MHz (9-9-9-24)

Motherboard
MSI 880GMS-E41(FX) (MS-7641) (CPU1) 40 °C

Graphics
VA1916wSERIES ([emailprotected])
2048MB ATI AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series (ATI AIB) 39 °C

Hard Drives
233GB SAMSUNG HD252HJ ATA Device (SATA) 36 °C
466GB Seagate ST500DM002-1BD142 ATA Device (SATA) 42 °C

Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24LS70 ATA Device

Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

I already troubleshoot for a week but I need to fix my system ASAP. any recommendations? Thanks

i use window xp. my problem is cd drive is started with light and open- closed but it is not showing in my computer. it drive is also not show at device MANAGER so please HELP me fast............please fastttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt
1) This is a forum not a chat room. Post and wait.

2) Please post questions only once. I responded in your other thread and am locking this one.

A friend of mine has an ACER Notebook Aspire 5315. It has a CrystalEye webcam, which shows up when I go into Control Panel>Hardware and Sound>Devices and Printers. However we can't seem to activate it. According to the internet there should be some Acer software under Start>All Programs to get it started but there wasn't. The Acer website had some drivers to download but doesn't really say what they do or how to use them. I downloaded some but they don't seem to have anything to do with the camera.
Can anyone help us get the camera rolling?If you have the original system restore media for this laptop, you can restore it back to factory software after first backing up all data to an external hard drive or thumb drive. If the camera works, then the software would be there as part of the original build. MAYBE someone uninstalled it accidentally etc.

I ran into similar issues trying to get drivers for a Sony Video Capture Card that came with a Sony Desktop computer that was running only a Pentium 4 processor. Sony did not make any of the software available for easy download and the only way to get the software needed to make this capture card work was to get the software and drivers off of the original system restore media set. The problem I had though was that I wanted to use this capture card in a newer build and the software and drivers were bundled and protected within a system restore DVD set so they couldnt be easily extracted and used on a different computer. Needless to say the capture card is worthless without the original computer to run it Even tried a Linux distro called Freevo to see if I could use it like a TiVo in an older computer running this Linux distro off of live CD and it would initialize the card, but thats all, everything else was broken. FreeVo was last updated a few years after this capture card was created so I HOPED that it would support it.

I have a feeling that Acer bundled the Software and Drivers as part of the original system restore image, and so the only way to get it back if it was removed is to restore the computer back to factory build just the same way it ran fresh out of the box when purchased to reinstall the software and drivers.

If no media set is available, it may have a utility to burn a system recovery set, otherwise you may also be able to buy a recovery set off of acer for a fee of around $40 if they dont offer this for free under WARRANTY that may still be active.The computer was bought second hand, and was wiped clean before purchase, so he doesn't have any of the stuff it originally came with.The hidden recovery partition may very well still be there...
Look up the Model # at Acer for instructions on accessing it.Quote

The computer was bought second hand, and was wiped clean before purchase, so he doesn't have any of the stuff it originally came with.

The hidden recovery partition may very well still be there...
Look up the Model # at Acer for instructions on accessing it.

Ok so I've been struggling with this for about a week throwing all kinds of money at the problem trying to determine the cause and I'm REALLY frustrated. I've been building my own computers for 15 years and I've never run into such a pervasive and elusive problem.

ISSUE: I turn on the power, and theres about a 80% chance that the monitor will never display anything. The power LED stays on, green, for like 4 seconds and then sorta 'sputters', and REPEATS this infinitely. Sometimes, I can get it to look like it's going to work, getting the WINDOWS splash and it loading up seemingly only for it to go to monitor totally off mode just like usual.

WHAT I'VE TRIED: Replacing Monitor. Replacing Video Card. Replacing Motherboard. Replacing PSU. Removing Ram (This yields a different result, the monitor stays in SLEEP mode, implying that this stops booting from happening at all). Removing disk drives. Resetting BIOS. Replacing power cables. Taping cords together to avoid them touching either the video card or the motherboard (this actually seemed to have a slight effect and cause it to boot longer before going to black)

MY HARDWARE SETUP: Radeon X1950 video card, MSI P6N SLI motherboard, 2.3 ghz Intel Core 2 Duo CPU, 2 1-GB ram sticks, 2 hard drives, and a CD-ROM drive.

Running MS Windows Service Pack 3.

Part of me wants to just buy a whole new computer - although that's pretty much what I've already DONE!

Any ideas?

Thank you!!

PS: I should note that the computer was working perfectly without a hitch for about a year. It stopped working abruptly when I... changed absolutely nothing =[

-Keithyou removed all your RAM? how many sticks of RAM do you have?Nice post layout.

Quote

I turn on the power, and theres about a 80% chance that the monitor will never display anything

you think its the cpu?

I should note that the computer was working perfectly without a hitch for about a year. It stopped working abruptly when I... changed absolutely nothing =[

Hi everyone. I dont really know what is with my computer
When i am going to a FOLDER vith some video files i see this

The instruction at "0x04d5a06" referenced memory at "0x00000000".The memory could not be "read"
Click OK to terminate the program
Click Cancel to debug the program

sorry if there is a topic like that but i really serched it,so PLEASE help me with this

and one more question:
if my computer restarts by itself,when i turn it on,my mouse and keybord isint workink,What could it be? you could try to test your memory....

http://www.memtest86.com/

Please post more info:

1) Are you overclocking? If so, stop it and see if the problem goes away.

2) What CPU? What motherboard? How old is it? What memory?

Generally the failures you describe indicate a bad motherboard. It could be your BIOS is freaking out, you may want to consider seeing if there's an upgrade for it. If the system is old you may want to check to see if your motherboard battery is still good. Although it dying shouldn't cause your system to be unstable because the bios defaults should be safe, it is something to consider (I have a system that gets cranky with bios defaults, go figure).

You could try reseating your RAM.

You could also try a different power supply to see if its gone bad.

RaydudeQuote

Generally the failures you describe indicate a bad motherboard.

My internet just stopped working on my main computer. It only seems to work when I have my laptop on, that has a wireless internet connection. But funnily enough, my laptop can access the internet even when my other main computer can't. What's wrong? I just recently installed a new heatsink on my main computer, and a new video card and POWER supply. But I don't think its because of those. I thought it was a modem problem so I restarted the modem, and it fixed the problem for a few hours and then the problem started again.

I'm using windows XP sp2 home edition, 3.8 GHZ duo core, 2 gigs of ram, 650 WATT CORSAIR psu, ASUS hdmi 1 gig vmem 9600gt. the motherboard is asus p5wd2 premium.Cable or DSL? And is your computer HARDWIRED or are you doing it wirelessly?Quote from: NoBogui on August 27, 2008, 08:38:40 PM

Cable or DSL? And is your computer hardwired or are you doing it wirelessly?

Hi,

I have a HP dv2700 Notebook PC, and the keyboard stopped working. None of the buttons WORK what so ever. Is there something I can do to try to fix this ISSUE before I just go and get it replaced? or repaired?check connections, try another keyboard if you can?I have another keyboard hooked up to it, and it is fine, just the one on laptop don't want to work for nothing..It looks like your laptop keyboard is dead.Quote from: Broni on August 04, 2008, 10:59:19 PM

It looks like your laptop keyboard is dead.

I have another keyboard hooked up to it, and it is fine, just the one on laptop don't want to work for nothing..

There was a power outage at my home a while back, and my computer was on at the time. When I turn it on, it repeatedly cycles through the same 3 boot-up screens (which I attached). This has happened before, but in the past, it would cycle 2 or 3 times, and then continue to the login screen. Now, it just keeps going, over & over & over. I don't know much about the computer, other than a friend built it for me back in 2003, it has 2 hard drives, and that one of them (the non-system drive) is a 500 mb drive that I reformatted a while back. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[recovering disk space -- attachment deleted by admin]What if you try Safe Mode?

Try unplugging the computer for about 5 minutes and then plug it back in.Unplugging the computer, then plugging back in after 5 minutes, doesn't help it boot. It repeats the same 1-2-3 cycle. Same goes for the Safe Mode.Will it boot from Windows CD?The friend who built my computer didn't give me any discs, so I don't know. I suppose I could just buy XP & reformat my main drive, but then I'd lose all the content I'm trying to get.Slight CORRECTION on something I mentioned earlier -- when I try to boot in Safe Mode, a list of files starts showing up on the screen, but stops when "MUP" shows up... and then reboots itself.What is MUP?MUP.sys is the last thing XP loads before executing....So, What happens after we see the mup.sys DRIVER load on a safe mode boot?

The windows OS is looking in the registry, executing PnP (Plug and pray) and ACPI routines checking the components and resources found.
It then starts these components possibly causing more draw on the power supply. Consider here the load of non-self-powered USB devices.

If there are any unrecoverable problems here, that will cause the system to hang and it will look the same. - The system hangs during a
safe mode boot after loading mup.sys!

The main reasons for this Windows XP or Win 2000 boot hang or alleged mup.sys issue are:

* Hard disk failure or corruption
* A corrupted registry or registry hive
* New hardware has been installed but not did not completely "Register or re-Register" correctly
* New hardware has been installed but it is faulty or failing
* The new hardware's driver or windows itself has been compromised (Disk data corruption or by a virus) or (rare) needs to be updated
* The power supply is marginal in output or failing (Common PER user feedback)
* BIOS\ESCD\Motherboard chipset driver conflict with a component, its driver, or its registry data
* Existing hardware including the motherboard may have failed in a specific way but not catastrophically.

In my experience, I have never found that the mup.sys driver is actually the cause of the problem but replacing it with a known good uninfected version
won't hurt if just to exclude that possibility. Also, disabling the mup.sys driver by USING the RECOVERY console normally does not help either. Windows will
then just hang at the driver that loads prior to mup.sys.

From here: http://www.aitechsolutions.net/mupdotsysXPhang.htmlQuote

MUP.sys is the last thing XP loads before executing....

AMD Athlon OR AMD Turion
please helpamd athlon is better in terms of performance.

amd turion is better for conserving battery life of laptop.

If you find amd athlon in a laptop, go get it IF battery conservation/life is not concern and you want more power.

--------

This is concerning dual core X2 models, I expect single core models to be similar situation.thanks

mines AMD Turion X2 Dual Core Processor (2.00 GHz)

on call of duty 4 it says

Intell and AMD 1.8ghz duel core processor or better

so does that meen i can play that gameYou should be able to

If you want to double CHECK, go to this website:

http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/referrer/srtest

Follow the instructions to pick the game of interest and your computer should be analyzed to see if it has the right HARDWARE to run the game successfully (this is good site in general)Your video card or on board is also important with gamingQuote from: xavier on August 27, 2008, 04:40:03 PM

Your video card or on board is also important with gaming

Hello raptor......same old thing.

I am having multiple problems. First I connected the montherboard and everything on it and booted it and it could not install windows XP, it said can't READ HARD drive. So I installed the hard drive on to ANOTHER computer and install windows that way, and even install a couple games. Everything worked great. Then I take the hard drive and put it back into the Foxconn montherboard 661FX7MJ and then I started getting problems again. When I can get it to start windows and then tries to install the new device drivers, when I restart to install it doesn't start windows anymore and have to try couple times again to get it to start. Then I have the same problem and it tries to install drivers. Sometimes it doesn't read the hard drive at all. What should I do? I feel I have tried it all. I put windows XP CD and boot off that but it seems to get issues with that also.

Could it be something wrong with the montherboard? (I know its not the hard drive, since I can use it on other computers, I have tried other cd drives, the monther board is new so I'm not sure if its the motherboard. HELP PLZ!! I AM STRESSED OUT first off, you cannot install windows on one machine then pop out the harddrive and plug it in another machine and expect it to work. you need to install windows on the machine you intend to use it on. but seeing as how you were able to install windows in another comp using the same harddrive, that kind of negates the harddrive as being the problem. when you first tried to install windows on your comp, did you hook the harddrive up correctly? also, the make/model of your harddrive would be nice.This is the the mobo you're speaking about:

http://www.foxconnchannel.com/product/Motherboards/detail_overview.aspx?id=en-us0000162

Click on the pic to enlarge.

Thats a 775 socket. You're using a P4. I have no clue which hard drive type, size or manufacturer you are using. That would be helpful to know.

If you're using a ATA hard drive. First, you will need to check the jumper settings on your hard drive. The jumper should be set to "master" and not "cable select" or "slave" ( if the jumper was set to slave it would work as a slave and you would not be able to start windows ). You will need to connect your IDE cable to the white socket connection on the mobo. Also check your cable connection itself, IDE cables have the connection for the mobo on one end, in the middle is "slave" and on the other end, "master". "Master" should be inserted into your hard drive.

Based on the info you've provided thats the most I advice can give you.

~edit~ Changed "Obvious to if" Didn't see the Black Sata connections on the pic. Thanks HomerQuote

Viewing the pic it's obvious you're using a ATA hard drive.

Did you ever get this issue resolved? I'm running into the same problem.

Hi All,

For some reason, delete and backspace key doesn't seem to be working on my laptop and on any APPLICATION that I use (word, excel, NOTEPAD etc etc)
Not sure what caused this.
It is Acer Ferrari 1000 laptop.

Any help would be appreciated.Quote from: nirajraval on August 27, 2008, 09:25:19 PM

Hi All,

For some reason, delete and backspace key doesn't seem to be working on my laptop and on any application that I use (word, excel, notepad etc etc)
Not sure what caused this.
It is Acer Ferrari 1000 laptop.

Any help would be appreciated.

So I want to get a BETTER new pc that is not expansive. So I've been looking for a quad core q6600 kuz it's fast and it's pretty cheap.
So here are few things that I wonna buy:

The Case
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3756961&CatId=3428

Processor
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2643933&CatId=2758

Motherboard
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3975891&CatId=1533

That is basically all I want to buy.
The other parts I have are:
Hard Drive
It's an 80 GB ATA internal Hard Drive from my DIMENSION C521 the slim desktop. I was wondering if it will work on that motherboard hopefully it does.

Video Card
GeForce 8600GT. I'm pretty sure it will work.

Dvd Drive
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/System_Drives/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=313-4664&mfgpid=184893&chassisid=8244
That's the kind I have but I don't think it will work on this motherboard so if it doesn't I will have to buy a new one.

Memory.
I've got 2 DDR2 each 1GB. Hopefully they will FIT. I'm planning to get each 2GB to get the most out of the Motherboard.

I think that's all I really need.
Tell me if I've made a mistake somewhere or if this is not so good for a Gaming PC.
I know my video card isn't the best but it's the best I've got.
Thnx.

Also I know that not all the prices are cheap but I know where to get them cheaper.
And basically with all the cheap prices I've got $334.4 after taxes.Couple suggestions. There is only one ATA slot on that Motherboard, and the hard drive you have will be using that(plus another hard drive later if you need it) . I would go for a SATA dvd rom to allow for a second hard drive if you need the storage.

Also, the power supplies that come with most cases are usually not the best quality. I would be saving some cast to upgrade it.


What are you going to do for an operating system? Everybody has their own opinon on hardware, as far as the board i would use a intel board . What you have is a cheap msi board and a high end processorOkay so I'll look into getting a better motherboard.
I just want to get under the 500 dollar price for this computer
http://www.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/inspndt_530?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&~oid=us~en~29~inspndt_530_anav1~~

If not then I guess I should just get dell then except the power supply is only 350 or 375 watt so it's not so great
But if I could build a better computer for the same or under this price then I much rather do that lol.

So I looked in... how about this for a motherboard?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3748314&CatId=1572Stay with a 450- 500 watt power supply at least you might want to add on later [hardware] or upgrade hardwareYes I know that's why I want to get that case lol.

Nvm. I checked again that motherboard it doesn't look like it supports the quad core.
That just plain sux

Instead how about this motherboard?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3301602&CatId=1572Your first 2 links do not work...They work just fine to me.Sorry for basically double posting but this is a little different.
Anyway what I thought of is that I am not going to build my computer. Well I'll build one later but not now.
I figured is that if I buy an xbox 360 or a PS3 all the cool latest games will come out and will be working on EITHER one of those consoles. (Most likely on the xbox 360 :p)
So why spend so much money every time upgrading and upgrading and upgrading your computer if you can just get one system that will play all the fun games and you don't have to upgrade it.
I think that's a very good choice.
I know people have these overheating problems/ death rings but all of that happens is because you don't give your xbox to cool off. People barricade them in the small room or some box and then complain why they have death rings/ overheating problems.

Anyway thanx for all of your help. So instead of building a new machine you are simply going to get an XBox ? ?

I give up.

Quote

People barricade them in the small room or some box and then complain why they have death rings/ overheating problems.

My mouse will not work, I am using window xp. I have an arrow but it will not MOVE. It will work on other computer with no problem. It is an optical mouseYou may need to be more explicit!!!!

I DEDUCE that you have no mouse cursor on screen or - it will not move. But you say mouse works - on another machine?

So - what op system do you have, on what computer? Is this a new problem or old - does it tie in with recent changes?

Your question is as PRESENTED unanswerable really. Expand - fully.USB? Wireless? Optical? What OPERATING system? More information needed.My mouse will not work, I am using window xp. I have an arrow but it will not move. It will work on other computer with no problem. It is an optical mouseWill it work in Safe Mode?
If so....
Uninstall mouse through Device Manager, restart computer. It'll be automatically reinstalled.
If not, borrow PS/2 mouse, and see, if it works.Still a bit lacking on info!

OK so - optical mouse but - direct PS2 connection? - USB connection? or THRU an adaptor?

How long the problem?

Does it coincide with any other changes?

It's hard to establish what might be wrong without info - lots of it - probably more than you might think relevant. Even then no guarantee of a diagnosis and cure.



Per Broni - yeah - safe mode test would help tooActually, what surface is it on?

i have windows 98 se could you please tell me how to get this computer out of ms-dos compatibility MODE paging
both drive a and c

also i need to get drive d to mount
thank you so muchYou will need to Post alot more info on the MACHINE...the symptoms and what happened prior to this to get any RESULTS.

While ripping a cd on my laptop, there was a loud buzzing NOISE like the disc was out of balance. The disc stopped playing, and now I can't get it to eject. I think the disc is wedged between the door and the interior of the drive. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Quote

While ripping a cd on my laptop,

Quote

While ripping a cd on my laptop,

Found the source of the problem....

Anyways, is this a Laptop or Desktop?

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 26, 2008, 04:08:40 AM

Quote

While ripping a cd on my laptop,

Found the source of the problem....

Anyways, is this a Laptop or Desktop?

I don't think you're concentrating this morning...!

Hi people, ILL get straight into my DILEMMA. Im currently using a Samsung VM6000 series laptop running XP service pack 2 and the PC card slots do not work with XP. Im trying to use a Netgear WG511T card and everytime i plug it in an error MESSAGE comes up saying: "The device "Ricoh R/RL/RB/5C478(II), R5C522 or Compatible CardBus Controller" has detected a Cardbus card in its slot, but the firmware on this system is not configured to allow the Cardbus controller to be run in CardBus mode. The operating system will c..." The message continues but i cant read any further because it is not displayed.

No LIGHTS display on the card either when i insert it.

The card does work because I upgraded the OS from Windows 98SE, where the card did work, to XP so I could use a piece of software called Slickr.

The name of the card slots: Ricoh R/RL/RB/5C478(II), R5C522. Under Device Manager the card's driver is: 5.1.2600.0
Other info:
300Mhz Intel Mobile Celeron
Intel 440DX PCI chipset
The manual refers to the PC Cards as:
"Controller: Texas Instruments PCI 1220 CardBus Controller
Types Supported: 2 Type II or 1 Type III cards.
Connector Size: 68 pins
Data Width: 16-bit PCMCIA cards, 32-bit CardBus cards
Supports: Zoomed video and 32-bit Card Bus cards"
ATI Rage LT Pro Controller 4MB 100Mhz SGRAM


Any help would be much APPRECIATED. Try pressing the down arrow on the keyboard to finish the message....
Or copy and paste it here from Event Viewer.

both are atx
case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811190040
mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128344&Tpk=GA-EP45-DS3R
the i/o pannle maches up perfectly but the only hole that maches on the mobo is the bottom left i dont know what to do! i put it in RIGHT and everything cept i cant put any screws in cause they dont line up!!!! what to do!Maybe not what you wanna do but - as an old engineer I'd mark up for the other needed holes and drill case after moving mobo out the way - and use suitable sheet metal screws to suit mobo holes - ASSUMING of COURSE that mobo holes are in ''safe'' zones of PCB.

If screws project outside case - no biggie unless esthetics matter. Add spacers to suit too of course - fiber washers or something non conductive.

Not sure what else you can do right now.hmm strange now it fitsQuote from: computeruler on August 19, 2008, 06:20:59 PM

hmm strange now it fits

First build ? ?

I have a DELL xps 710 that has sata drives how do I connect an ata to the COMPUTERYOU can get a ATA PCI CARD that will allow up to 4 ATA drives to be connected....
Relatively easy to install as well.

Hope this helps.Thank youWelcome Aboard ! !

Hi I recently bought a 500W power supply and its been working great for about 5 months now.

But recently, I've been hearing this crackling noise and it took me 2 days to find out where it came from, and I found out that it is coming from my power supply.

My power supply comes with this little knob which controls the speed of the PSU, and I decided to give it a try and slow it down, and as expected the SOUND died down with it. But, the crackling noise stays. Not too loud, but still annoying.

Out of fear that my computer would overheat, I turn up the speed every once in a while. Proportionally the sound would get a bit louder.

It goes something like this: CRACKLE -CRACKLE -QUIET -CRACKLE CRACKLE - QUIET. And theres an occasional quiet squeal along the middle. Any solutions guys?sounds like a bad fan. here are some solutions...

1. return the PSU if it is still under warranty
2. buy a new PSU
3. replace the fan in the PSU *

Notes:

* should only be done if you are qualified. PSU's are dangerous to dismantle even when unplugged.warrantys done....*2 weeks *censored*...* and I don't think REPLACING it would be the best OPTION as of this point coz my dad's gonna kill me! x_xIf the power supply is crackling, I don't see any other option....
Are you 100% it is coming from the PSU?YEAH theres this knob to slow down or speed up the speed of the PSU's fan. When I slow it down the sound disappears. I'm hoping to look for a low budget option, like hitting it, or CLEANING it, or something.Perhaps the fan itself has just come loose or something.

I would do as Homer suggested and hand it over to someone with experience with PSU's to fix it.

What kind of noise is it, do you know? (like something hitting something or what)could be the bearings in fan. Try takeing a flat screw driver an see if there isnt any resistant when you turn it. Never smake it. It will cause more issues.Quote from: jclh123 on August 07, 2008, 05:58:56 PM

warrantys done....*2 weeks *censored*...* and I don't think replacing it would be the best option as of this point coz my dad's gonna kill me! x_x

Your best bet...replace the unit and be done with it.

from the stored electricity within the PSU's transformer.

Quote

from the stored electricity within the PSU's transformer.

just FYI, the electricity is stored within the PSU's capacitors, not its transformers.

I just realised Ive got a problem with my computer.
I play GAMES from CD and the sound works fine. I can play games from the hard drive and all is well. I play music CDs and the sound works fine.
Yet when I go online to listen to, say youtube clips, I get NOTHING. ?

The computer has an
AMDAthalon XP 1500+
1.33 ghz. 992 ram
Xp service PACK 2
80 gig drive. 200 gig external.
Soundmax integrated digital audio

Can anyone help to fix it? ThanksMy ex girlfriend recently had this exact same problem... I went to have a look at it, but could not find a reason why.

Although, I did try using msconfig (Start > Run > type "msconfig" > hit ENTER > click the start up tab) and i disabled the tools that were related to the audio (like SoundMAX Manager or something, can't remember the actual name) and it worked.

Like I say, I couldn't find an explanation for this, hence my solution may not work for you (or at all) it may have been coinsidence. I WOULD like to find out if anyone else has had this problem and knows a tried and tested solution...I'll run through that Gx44 and let you know what happens. Thanks

Oh man, this has been bugging me.
It seems that EVERYTHING with my computer/monitor is fine, until I open certain programs (STEAM, iTunes, etc.)
then it looks like the window of those programs are stuck in the wrong resolution!
Does anyone have an ANSWER?!?

It's a PRETTY new Samsung SyncMaster 245bw.
Running on DIGITAL, yes I have refresh rate on 60.
Last time I updated video drivers I got a line of dead pixels, so try not to suggest that D: (And that's why my screen is pretty new)Quote

then it looks like the window of those programs are stuck in the wrong resolution!

They MAY be LISTED as CHIPSET DRIVERS....

Hi. Good day. How can i determine if my pc memory needs CHANGING or whatever is the tech term? My information from system memory is as follows :Total physical memory 64.00 Available physical memory 7.82 MB Total physical memory 2.00GB Available virtual memory 1.96MB. My OS is windows xp professional.This memory i am refering to is it called RAM ?Also how can i detrmine if the memory cards or modules NEED to be replaced? Thanks.I don't think you have copied those figures properly. Where are you GETTING them from?
From system summary or should i say after the system summary, or system information.? What Windows version is it?Quote from: Broni on August 07, 2008, 08:08:38 PM

What Windows version is it?

Oh....with 64MB of RAM? Good luck...

Oh....with 64MB of RAM? Good luck...

Total physical memory 64.00 Available physical memory 7.82 MB Total physical memory 2.00GB Available virtual memory 1.96MB.

Quote

Total physical memory 64.00 Available physical memory 7.82 MB Total physical memory 2.00GB Available virtual memory 1.96MB.

I don't understand a bit of it.

Hi all, my DVD drive has suddenly disappeared from my computer, it does not show in the Device Manager either. I tried to restore the computer to the state it was week ago when it could recognize the driver, but it didn't help. Is formatting my only chance now?
Well, firstly: I assume that the drive didnt physically disappear from the computer...

Secondly, what kind of computer do you have? What is the manufacturer and model number?

A newer updated version of the driver, which we can help you find, may resolve the issue. The driver is still there physically as you presumed correctly just I cannot locate it in the computer in any possible way. Here is the info:
Tulip Computers (manufacturer Nedfield)
System model: 4xx Series
Bios Version: Phoenix 4.06
Model: M430E

-------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer NEW-PC
Generator ja
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2008-08-25
Time 14:55


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Computer Name NEW-PC
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service Pack Service Pack 3
User Name ja

Motherboard:
CPU Type Mobile Intel PENTIUM 4M, 2200 MHz (22 X 100)
Motherboard Name Clevo 4xx Series
Motherboard Chipset SiS 645DX
System Memory 512 MB (PC2100 DDR SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (02/02/04)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter ATI Mobility Radeon 9000 (Omega 3.8.442) (64 MB)
Video Adapter ATI Mobility Radeon 9000 (Omega 3.8.442) (64 MB)
3D Accelerator ATI Mobility Radeon 9000 (M9)
Monitor Generic Television

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter SiS 7012 Audio Device

Storage:
IDE Controller SiS PCI IDE Controller
Floppy Drive Floppy disk drive
Disk Drive ST94011A (40 GB, 5400 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 38146 MB (34178 MB free)

Input:
Keyboard Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse PS/2 Compatible Mouse

Network:
Network Adapter Realtek RTL8139 Family PCI Fast Ethernet NIC (192.168.1.105)
Modem Smart Link 56K Voice Modem

Peripherals:
USB1 Controller SiS 7001 PCI-USB Open Host Controller
USB1 Controller SiS 7001 PCI-USB Open Host Controller
USB1 Controller SiS 7001 PCI-USB Open Host Controller
USB2 Controller SiS 7002 USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller
USB Device USB Device
Battery Microsoft AC Adapter
Battery Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060

Microsoft's Support on the problem you have or the problem I think you have.

Although I have windows Vista, doing Microsoft's solution did WORK for me when I had that issue of not being able to access the drives The cable might be loose. Open the case and make sure you have a good tight connection. Make sure you ground yourself before touching any of the internal components.egon
Topic
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Hi all, my DVD drive has suddenly disappeared from my computer, it does not show in the Device Manager either. I tried to restore the computer to the state it was week ago when it could recognize the driver, but it didn't help. Is formatting my only chance now?
-----------------------------------------------------------.

Have you altered the ........You can also try...

Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Thanks, I tried uninstalling and it installed it again, but it still does not work. What is even better, now I cannot open that bloody drive physically. No light comes, nothing. Can the conection gets loose even if you do not touch this device? ( I am struggling with opening that bloody thing) Yes.
One of the first things you should have checked is the connections...
As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...

Help. My sound card went kaput. So I guess I NEED to install a new sound card, right? Are all sound cards standard or do they vary according to computer?

And once I install the sound card , do I need to reinstall the AUDIO drivers?
What do you MEAN your sound card went kaput? We might be able to help you fix it, if you want.sorry, i meant my sound card got fried. yesterday, while I was surfing the web, I smelt a little burning smell, and the audio went silent. now when I boot up the computer, I get a pop up that says sound card is not available.

so can i just get a new sound card and put it in my computer? Or are sound cards dependant on the computer brand or TYPE? If I can put any sound card in, then after I do, do I just reload the drivers to make the sound card work properly?
Not an expert here but I think there are some differences between different cards and motherboards

What Motherboard do you have now?

Also, I've MOVED this to the Computer Hardware Section.Quote from: shashgo on August 08, 2008, 11:05:06 PM

so can i just get a new sound card and put it in my computer? Or are sound cards dependant on the computer brand or type? If I can put any sound card in, then after I do, do I just reload the drivers to make the sound card work properly?

I have a problem with my PC

Yesterday my com. was working all well, but 2day when I turned it on it went all mad

At first all went good, it read bios and EVEN the log on menu of Windows Vista, but after I typed the pass and logged on I found a black screen with the mouse. I can run application by using the run from the task manager bedcause it is the only thing that I can enter.

I tried the to enter safe mode and the same thing happened, and even last known good configuration and it happened again.Try to run the following program (through Task Manager):

explorer.exe10q man it is all working gdSo problem solved? Even after you restart the computer?No. I restarted my computer and i had to do the explorer.exe again for it to work.
How can I make it always enter normaly?I am not sure....

But you COULD try a system restore....Yeah, System Restore to a few DAYS before the problem started.

More info here:
System RestoreHow long ago did the problem start occuring?
You should restore it to at least 3 days before it started going wrong.It did system rostor and is it working good
10q guys Good.... Congrats.

What does 10q mean?10q = thank you. Heh, COOL.

So I COME back from soccer practice two hours after I left, and when I get back my computer freezes and shuts down.

So when I try to turn it back on, my hard drive makes this repetitive clicking noise and i hear something as if it's shutting down (or a noise similar to that). And my computer screen reads "Disk Boot Failure. Insert systm disk and try again"

I'm USING a built computer (my brother built it), and it was running on (before I had the problem) VISTA, 1 GIG of ram, and 160 gig hard drive from western digital.

I don't even have clue what's going on, all i know is that the hard drive makes this repittive clicking noise and it's driving me nuts.

Thansk for all the help!it sounds like your harddrive died. you will need to purchase a new harddrive.STOP USING IT IMMEDIATELY.

If your data is important you now have what's known as the clik of Death...the HDD is failing.

Best bet for retrieving anything is to hook it up as a slave drive in another working machine and try and copy the data to another drive.

Don't try to burn it to CD/DVD as this takes alot longer and you may only get one shot at it.How do I get my data out of there?Like I said, I'm reallybad with computers.
So can you take it step by step on how to get my computer functioning again (simplest as possible), and how I can retrieve my data out of there.

Thank you so MUCH!Step one: Get a New Hard DriveQuote from: i33nji on August 25, 2008, 09:56:02 PM

How do I get my data out of there?

I need help with deciding which motherboard will be the best option for me.
My specs:
Graphics card: Gtx 280
Processor: Intel quad core Q9450
Memory: 4gigs of DDR3

I am trying to decided between Asus P5Q3, bonetrail and the bonetrail 2. I am only willing to SPEND the EXTRA cash for the bonetrail 2, if i need to. If you know of a BETTER motherboard at the same price RANGE then PLEASE tell me.
Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.

Kyle