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My display has STARTED showing ghosts of whatever is on the screen and the colors are very bold and unattractively vibrant.
I have switched to a new monitor, monitor CABLE and updated video drivers as well as adjusting the display attributes with no change.Click here to find out what INFORMATION I should add when submitting a QUESTION?

Pc Compaq Deskpro - Celeron A 495mHz - 128mb SDRAM.

Partitioned and formatted an 8Gb hdd (C:=3gb D:=remainder) and installed Win.2k Pro. No problems noted. System ran ok, installed AVG and Zone Alarm then rebooted. Immediately after the splash screen displayed, a notification was posted that drive D: was being checked then a further message that the Master File Table was corrupt and CHKDSK was aborted.

Immediate thought was that the hdd had failed but it passed the manufacturer's diagnostics. Drive D: was SHOWN in the My Computer window but could not be accessed.

Reformatted the partition (used Disk Management) and continued USING it until another reboot when the above problems repeated. No problems with C:

Installed a different hdd, partitioned/formatted - no problems with W2k install. Installed PROGRAMS, rebooted, repeat of above error

Second thought was that the W2k cd was defective so used it to install on another pc without problems. Installed programs and rebooted several times without error.

Installed Win XP Home on the Deskpro using the original hdd which W2k picked as being defective, no errors.

Both the W2k and XP cd's are genuine with coa's.

Current thought is that there is 'something' in the Deskpro hardware which causes the problem with W2k.

Any ideas please?"Current thought is that there is 'something' in the Deskpro hardware which causes the problem with W2k."

I have had this happen with the modem or sound card not working
with the install.They did not play WELL together.

My solution was to remove the modem and sound card,install the
operating system,then add the parts back to the computer,one
at a time after install.

This happened to me with a Compaq Deskpro EN so, give it a try.Thank you Street1. I tried your cure but the error still came up.

However, today I did things just a LITTLE differently.

When SP.4 completes, the option to reboot 'now' or not reboot is available. I have been opting not to reboot at that point and proceeding to install all the hotfixes which were produced after SP.4 then reboot when all were installed.

Today I rebooted after SP.4 and the error did not appear. So, it seems that a reboot is necessary after SP.4 despite the option not to reboot being available.

Still baffled as to why not rebooting would cause a corrupt MFT but I'll quit while I'm ahead.

Thanks again.Good for you.Smart thinking.Glad you got it fixed
friend.

My COMPUTER has lost partial contact with the printer. It's lost the ability to print in black, or to scan documents. (It still prints in color). The computer (Win XP) does not find the printer if I ask for a report on the status of my ink cartridge ('cannot establish two-way communication with the device' is the error message).
I have deleted Printers i n Control Panel, deleted/reinstalled software, changed USB cable. I believe a whole new printer would not solve the problem.
I have recently started using usb memory sticks that causes a Safely Remove Hardware icon to appear. I NOTICE now that if I turn the printer On, the icon appears and allows me to "Close" the device. If Windows is treating my printer now like a memory stick, a one-way street, then that would explain the error message about 2-way communication. How do I tell Windows that my printer is a printer?
CarrollDid you change the Blk cartiage? Are you tring a diffenrt USB port each time? No, A printer is not a storage device. The fact that it comes up cause its a usb. I recommend tring a differnt port.USB printers should NOT be hooked up when installing the software. It will tell you when to plug it in.
If you remove the device and then use Add/Remove programs to un-install the software then start over does it produce the same RESULTS ? ?I redid the installation to be sure, and it made no difference. Maybe the printer is broken somehow, which is a shame as it is low mileage and has a scanner.
But I still have hope that Windows is confused somehow. I honestly don't remember ever seeing the Safe to Remove icon for my printer before, and it is not on the computer at work (virtually the same printer). This problem started after using those storage devices and now Windows treats the printer with the same protocols as for a memory stick.
Any more thoughts?Did you try another port? Does this print/scanner have a parrelle port? Big connector on the back or back side.I sure did change ports. and its a usb alright. The cartridge I won't replace as long as my computer can't even read the level of the CURRENT cartridge -- at least not at $3,500/gallon for ink. I'm going to drag it to the office to see which end of the dog is wagging which.
Thanks for the help.Not a bad idea...running it on another machine will narrow down quite a few possibilites.Quote from: patio on March 05, 2008, 05:48:57 PM

Not a bad idea...running it on another machine will narrow down quite a few possibilites.

I need to update my video card but I can't find what the manufacturer is so I can download the update from their site. I went to start menu and clicked on run, typed in "DXDIAG" and hit OK. The DIRECTX diagnostic tool opened. Under the Display tab, I should have seen the NAME of your video card and the manufacturer, but they just said, "n/a."
What does this mean?

My computer is a Windows XP Compaq Presario, model SR1503WM.Download the drivers from here - http://downloadcenter.intel.com/confirm.aspx?httpDown=http://downloadmirror.intel.com/9033/a08/win2k_xp14103.exe&agr=&ProductID=865&DwnldId=9033&strOSs=&OSFullName=&lang=eng
Install them.
It seems you wiped your PC, so I guess you didn't get the drivers beforehand.
Hope this helps.Yes!! It works! I can finally PLAY my games! Thank you so much!You're welcome, GLAD to have been able to help.

Okay. My cpu has decided to start heating up pretty HIGH. 66 under normal and up to 85 under load. I have a P4 3.4 processocr on an Intel Southlake MB. It is Gateways failed attempt at a BTX form factor.

Here is the link to Gateways MB page.

http://support.gateway.com/s/MOTHERBD/Intel2/102129/102129sp24.shtml

My problem is that even though it is a LGA775 socket, the pin CONNECTORS do not match up with the the normal pin placement for a LGA775 cpu cooler. Right now it has a heat sink and I really want to swap with a fan.

The four pins are in a rectangle shape not in a square. I can't find any CPU fans that look like they would fit.

Anybody have any suggestions?If you search for BTX 775 cooler, there are a few options out there.
Type I seems to be the normal standard, and type II COOLERS are for smaller cases.
Hope this helps.This one says it's only for up to 3Ghz processors.

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=D35714-001&cat=CPU

I have a 3.4. Stupid question but will it STILL work? Is their that much of a size difference?Don't get one that isn't rated to cool your CPU.
It won't cool it sufficiently and you'll still have heat problems.
Get a cooler rated for at least 3.4GHz, preferably more.Quote from: Calum on September 03, 2008, 10:29:12 AM

Don't get one that isn't rated to cool your CPU.
It won't cool it sufficiently and you'll still have heat problems.
Get a cooler rated for at least 3.4GHz, preferably more.

Hey, I think my harddrive is dieing or is already dead. Whenever I link it to the computer it makes a whirring sound and sometimes, I'd say 1 out of 20, shows up as a drive in my computer and for even less times lets me actually access the files.
Most of the time I get certain errors a few Timeout errors which I didn't jott down and this one "The specified I/O operation on \Device\Harddisk1\DR26 was not completed before the time-out period expired".
I was told by someone that that means theres a physical fault within the harddrive and it wasn't repairable unless sent to a specialist, and I wanted to get some other opinions.

Oh and on the rare occasions where it does work and I can access the files, I TRIED to backup a few files but the file transfers seem to only last around 5 minutes until it just stops and I have to unplug and replug it. The times unpluging and repluging has worked also has lessened and I think when it works the times it lasted has also reduced..

As for recovary programmes I've tried GetDataBack but my HDD kept dieing during the scan.

Anyway to save it? Or at least recover the data?There are ways but the drives has to be sent away. Usually the company that made the HD will have it repaired for you at a price.Ah! Something strange. Just now I tried to save some work on my flash memory stick to take to school but it wasn't working very well. This made me think that maybe something is wrong with the usb ports or the computer so I took my harddrive and connected it to a different pc and it worked! I don't know if it's just gonna work for a short while before dieing again SINCE I started the file transfers and left the house, but if it is ok and it's the computer that has the problem, does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?

Thanks in advance.Backup all that data ASAP on the other machine...you don't have much time.Seriously? I've backed up all my important data so that's FINE. It's working perfectly on the other machine though.. Don't you think it's an error with my computer?I think it is since if this is only the HD you said was having problems and know the usb ports. I think something is going bad.Quote from: Atomsk on March 05, 2008, 08:57:44 AM

Seriously? I've backed up all my important data so that's fine. It's working perfectly on the other machine though.. Don't you think it's an error with my computer?

Hi,

I have a dell inspiron 2200 laptop, and every so often I hear the fan whirring like crazy inside. This leads me to believe that there might be a good amount of dust inside. So can anyone walk me through how to open the case to get at the fan and the heatsink or whatever else
No need to open the case.

Just purchase a can of compressed air from your local office supply store and direct the air to any/all of the exposed vents and this should be sufficient.

Use caution when you use the compressed air around the fan, though. Making the fan SPIN faster than intended is not good for its bearings.mmm....laptop fans do SPEED up every so often because of how the processor is used. If the cpu has not got alot to do then it runs slowly, but once the cpu is given a big job to do it runs at a higher speed which will make it hotter, thus needing more cooling.

Look at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpeedStep
and en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PowerNow!

This will explain things more.

Unless the fan is making whineing or gringing noise, then this might be dust.perhaps there is nothing wrong right now and that there isnt a whole lot of dustbunnies inside, but I would like to know what to do when the time COMES.

By the way I have sprayed air by all the vents and they look clean. But couldnt there be dust inside

Another thing to keep in mind...

Even though it's called a laptop. It's not a good idea to use it on your lap. You will be blocking the vents thereby obstructing the flow of air...which will definitely make your fan run harder.Quote from: shashgo on SEPTEMBER 03, 2008, 11:41:05 AM

But couldnt there be dust inside

I really wouldn't recommend opening the case...unless you feel comfortable doing so.

I have just replaced my Logitech wireless mouse with a NEW Microsoft one. The Logitech used a disk to install it. I see that I have TWO programs in my control, Logitech Desktop Messenger and Logitech SetPoint. Should I REMOVE these as I am not aware of any other Logitect items I have and presume they were installed with the PREVIOUS Mouse.I would creat a SYSTEM restore point. Then remove them to be sure that it didn't cause problems.Then you can go back if it did.Done, gone and OK. Thanks.Thats good there weren't problems.

I stared having problems with my computer to the point it would no longer boot and after SEVERAL error messages (including a S.M.A.R.T. message saying my HDD was bad--BACK up and replace) I reinstalled my OS (XP Home sp2) on my second HDD. Everything works fine as long as the first HDD is not plugged in. I want to attempt to recover the data on my ORIGINAL HDD but when I attempt to start my computer with the bad HDD plugged in (as the secondary drive now), Windows will not start up. It attempts to and I get the Win loading screen and then everything just quits working.

Even with the bad HDD disabled in BIOS it STILL won't load the OS. If I unplug the bad HDD;however, everything works fine and Win loads with no problem.

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks for your time.CHECK the jumpers on the "Bad" hard drive.

http://members.aol.com/mbs1058/ibm_jumpers.html

If they are set right than go to the hard drive manufacture site and down load the tools to run a check on the drive.

It maybe to far gone to get your data back.
indeed- if you moved it from Master to the slave position it is likely to still have the jumpers set to master, which would fully explain your problems. I did not have jumpers on either HDD. Do the drives have to be connected with the same wire to be considered master/slave? On my system each is connected to a SATA port on the mobo with its own wire. In an attempt to avoid setup problems I switched the two wires on the HDDs (to keep the original working config).

I did find a jumper and set the bad one to power up in standby mode (I think its what it's called) and Win did actually start but the drive is not shown in the system.

I am having trouble finding the correct jumper setup info (dont have the documentation) and most of what I find shows 6pin and I have 8pin.

WD740ADFD Raptor is what I am using. If anyone knows more about the jumper setup I would appreciate it or any other ways to get the bad HDD to show up so I can see if anything is salvageable.

Hello. I'm new here, and I'm not exactly a very IT savy person so sorry if I seem alittle slow on understanding your replies=D

I use a tablet PC [Fujitsu Lifebook T4020] in school under the Tablet PC programme. We use our PCs during lessons. The school provides a help DESK which is avaliable only every wednesday. The help desk is manned by a technician from Fujitsu.

Recently my CD drive was faulty and the VGA port was also spoilt. I sent the PC for repair and the drive was replaced, and something inside the COMPUTER was changed to FIX the VGA port [Sorry but I'm not exactly sure what it is] Oh the computer was working as per normal except for the 2 faulty parts.

When I took it back, i didn't immediately check if the faulty parts were fixed. I left it for about a week before trying it yesterday.

However, the PC would not boot up. When i turn the PC on, there would be cold AIR blowing out of the vent, but the screen would be blank and nothing would show.

The vent would continue blowing air until i turn the PC off myself.

Can anyone give me some advice on what to do?

I'm really sorry for any unclear places because I really don't know what the parts are. Feel free to ask me for more clarification about my problem.

Thanks in advance.This is a hardware problem. Seems like the computer wasn't repaired properly.
I suggest you take it back to the technician, if he was supposed to fix it this is his problem.I used to be one of those Fujitsu guys, but they never let me play with those nifty swivel screen models. :-(

If a standard computer monitor is available you could try plugging that into the external VGA port. You'll have to press some hotkeys on your keyboard (possibly Fn and F10) to switch the video to the external display.

Deerpark is right THOUGH, Fujitsu needs to repair it properly. You might also try Fujitsu's support page on the 'Net.

I only use the genuine refils in my Canon i3400 printer, but since renewing one of the inks, each time I go to print, I get a message that the printer does not recognise the ink. On opening the top of the printer, one of the lights is not on. (always the same one). Removing and putting the cartridge back in, the light comes on and all goes fine until the next time I go to print and the same thing happens all over again. Always the same colour. This is a recently replaced one. Has anyone ever had a 'dodgy' cartridge and if so, I will take it back to the supplyer. (NOT bought cheap off the web!), but I don't want to bother the shop if there MAY be another known reason. Thanks.Keytapper,I'm an Epson user myself. However a phenomenon of Epson (fairly recent) may also be a factor with Canon.When you say genuine Canon REFILLS do you mean commercially sold Canon refills sold exclusively for use in Canon printers originating from Canon?The issue with Epson now is that in order to ensure that you "must" buy their refills they now include a small CHIP that "talks" to the printer. If it is not the correct chip or is another product other than the one produced by the manufacturer of the printer--then it will not be recognized and will CAUSE the printer not to work at all.Is it possible that the last "refill" cartride was an after market one or that it was purchased from a service that refills cartridges?If it is either a Canon original cartride that was NEVER refilled by anyone or is an original that WAS refilled by a refilling service i would take it back in both cases.Good luck,truenorth

I was wondering, can anyone tell me which card would be the better one? I know they are cheap, but I need to know.

NVIDIA Quadro4 700 XGL agp OR

GeForce xfx MX 4000 Graphics Card PCI 64MB DD


ThanksThe Quadro4 is a better card, as it's BASED on a newer GPU.
However, it is a workstation card, designed for 3D modelling etc RATHER than gaming.
Both are quite old cards - what do you need them for?
P.S. welcome to the forums.A friend has the NVIDIA Quadro4 700 XGL and wants to switch it with mx4000, someone SAID that it would be better as its based on the pci. He wants it for gaming.

Thanks Neither card will be much good for gaming, but the Quadro card is definitely better.

Hi I have a game on a PC it has worked for a long time (about a YEAR) but suddenly it has stoped working on both my PCs - it COMES up with the icon for the game (Sim City 4) but when you click it nothing happens! As far as I can see the CD is not scratched/damaged at all and I have cleaned it and tryed switching it off and on again nothing works! HELP Do other CD's work?

If they do, try reinstalling the game.

Any recent downloads/hardware changes/installs?

What Version of Windows?I'm running Windows XP. I want to try reinstalling it but that CD wont play. Other disks work though!Does the Sims CD work on another computer?NoThen it would be a problem with the disc, I'm afraid.I thorght so its just that it looks ok. no scratchers.It might not be a scratch (In my experience, scratches don't AFFECT the cd too badly if it's on the underside). It could be a crack somewhere.

Just to make sure, do you have access to a third computer to test it on?I do I will try that!All Right!

I am not exactly sure what happened. This morning I got up and realized my external harddrive (SimpleTech) was not working. It shows up on the My Computer screen yet when I turn it off, it's still there. I go inside the hard-drive and it says "This folder is empty". When I turn it on, my whole computer freezes for a second, then it goes BACK to normal. So, I am at a loss on what is happening here. Is there a WAY to retrieve the data? Any ideas guys??

Thanks!!Power down and re-boot...
Let the machine run for awhile instead of trying anything right away. 3 to 5 minutes should do...grab a cup of coffee.
This is to make sure everything FULLY loads.

Right clik My Computer and select "Manage".
Then select DISK Management...GIVE this a minute to fully load as well.
Find the external HDD and right clik it and select Properties.
Post back with all the info shown...don't attempt to fix anything yet or you may never see that data again.

My laptop needed reformatting.
I NEED to transfer about 25-30 gb of information from computer at home (where i have backup of everything) to my laptop.
Problem is my computer is very far away, in another state.
How do i transfer this amount of info? I have to believe there's another WAY aside from buying a $60-$90 external harddrive and ship it, and burning DVD's isn't REALLY an OPTION because i don't have a DVD burning drive.
Do i RESIGN to paying up the money, or is there another way? You can try 2GB chunks through here: http://www.uploadbigfiles.net/, but it'll take time.

My mother who is a compute novice and usually COMES to me for help has just purchased a new LAPTOP - has never had one before - and asked me the question I get different answers to all the time. When she is finished for the day, should she shut down and close it up or is it better to leave it on til the next day and should she close it up or leave it OPEN? And if it's going to be a few days until she gets back on what's the BEST advice for LEAVING it inactive?

Thank youClose it up and shutdown...
2 reasons: saves the screen from dust/debris
Eliminates a laptops worst enemy...Heat.

Just using the normal Windows shutdown process will be fine...Agreed.

Laptops are engineered (at least in theory) to the components can stand up to the start up / shut down cycling.

Long story short, my PC had been restarting randomly. I got a Bad_Pool_Caller ERROR 0x000000c2 error. Research suggested overheating of CPU. Intalled a monitoring PROGRAM and found it was consistently running over 60. Took the case apart and found alot of dust. Took CPU cooler (not fan just heatsink) off to clean. Blew fans clean with bottled AIR. Reinstalled everything.

Now when I try to power it starts and I immediately get two seperate tones that alternate twice. Tone A, Tone B, Tone A, Tone B and then powers down.

Anybody have any suggestions?When you took heat sink off and re installed did you re apply thermal grease to heat sink? Is heat sink re installed properly?QUOTE from: xavier on September 01, 2008, 04:41:03 PM

When you took heat sink off and re installed did you re apply thermal grease to heat sink? Is heat sink re installed properly?

What BIOS is it?
Can you boot into Safe Mode?

Recently my computer started having bluescreen randomly appear in games, with messages such a 0x0000007E and some others.

Sometimes also, World of Warcraft crashes and tells me that the "Memory could not be read". This leads me to believe that its a RAM problem, however, I ran Memtest 86+ v1.70, and let it go through each test 2 or 3 times, and it showed absolutely no errors, so I'm guessing that's not the problem.

Now once in a while when I get a bluescreen, VISTA tells me it found what the problem is, and it tells me its my graphics card, and then tells me to download the latest drivers.

I already downloaded the latest drivers for my graphics card, so I though, could my GPU's RAM be corrupted? Is there any way to find out for sure?

Here are my specs:

CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Quad Core Processor LGA775 Kentsfield 2.40GHZ 1066FSB 8MB
Motherboard: ASUS P5N32-E SLI Nforce 680I SLI LGA775 Conroe ATX DDR2 2PCI-E16 PCI-E1 2PCI SATA2 RAID Motherboard
GPU: Nvidia GeForce 8800GTX
RAM: Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X2048-6400C4 2GB 2X1GB PC6400 DDR2-800 CL 4-4-4-12 240PIN Dual Channel Memory Kit
Case: Antec P180 ATX Advanced Mid Tower Aluminum Case 4X5.25 1X3.5 6X3.5INT No PS W/ USB & Audio Ports
Power supply: OCZ GameXStream 700W ATX12V 24PIN SLI Ready Active PFC ATX Power Supply 120MM Fan Black
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 500GB SATA2 3GB/S 7200RPM 16MB Cache NCQ Hard Drive
OS: Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium Edition 32BIT DVD OEMDivineRage002 $$>>>with messages such a 0x0000007E ....................whereis the REST of error code...it helps.Here's one I managed to take a picture of:
0x0000000A (0x811A7F3C, 0x0000001B, 0x00000001, 0x8287AB67)

I'll update with more as I get them.Quote

Typically due to a bad driver, or faulty or incompatible hardware or software. Use the General Troubleshooting of STOP Messages checklist above. Technically, this error condition means that a kernel-mode process or driver tried to access a memory location to which it did not have permission, or at a kernel Interrupt ReQuest Level (IRQL) that was too high. (A kernel-mode process can acc

There are more drivers than just video drivers....

According to the stop error messages this is definitely a driver issue and or a hardware incompatibility issue...

Both the 00000a and ooooooooo7 errors support this.

But if you insist it's not a driver oh well...

ok i have been having probs with my comp on its intergrated video and i found out the MEM on the iv(intergrated video) has only 1 FREAKING MEGABYTE!
i would like a new one since im into high lvl gamin. here are my comp specs

OS:Win 2k
Proccessor: Pentium III 1GHZ
RAM: 384MB
One additionall PCI slot

im limited one MONEY, my budget on buyin a new graphics card is $40.00
can some one reccommend a graphics card plz that works with the specs i providedyou want a pci gpu? Quote

i would like a new one since im into high lvl gamin.

Just today, when I tried to turn my computer on, it turns itself off. It loads the graphics CARD info, then the motherboard logo appears, and thats when it dies. There is also a quiet electronic scratching type noise before it shuts off. Does anybody know what the problem is? Suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!WELCOME to the CH forums.

Suspect hard drive failure. The "scratching" noise COULD be the dreaded head crash.

D/l and run your hdd manufacturer's diagnostic program from their site.

While you're running diagnostics please read this..

GOOD luckIf you can get to the BIOS, see if your hard drive is listed in the BIOS...

Ok I built this computer like 6 years ago when i was really into computers but I've lost interest and knowledge and not i am stuck with a broken computer (my only personal computer btw). So here we go,

I push the power button on my computer, It starts and shows the MoBo MANUFACTURERS logo, then i switches to a black screen that says "Fasttrack 378 BIOS (more words here but i couldn't copy them down)
Scanning for IDE drives.......... No BIOS installed"

Than it switches to a black screen with a lot of writing basically saying that my computer won't start because there was a problem the last time it was shutdown, or started, or it lost power or something. Here it gives me 4 options, safe mode, safe mode networking, safe mode something else, and start computer with last known working configuration. I've chosen all and all options lead me to the same place. So i chose any of the options and i go to the black windows logo screen with the load bar, then to an all black screen, then it flashes a BSOD for about .5 sec and it shuts down and starts over again. I copied down what some of the BSOD says, "STOP: C0000218(more numbers)
(registry file ended *more words*) Then it says something about physical memory dump. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this is a little incoherentStart by replacing the CMOS battery on the motherboard. After 6 years it is almost assuredly dead.

After replacing the battery, enter the BIOS and load "Optimized" BIOS values. "Save changes and exit."Where can I get the battery? Thanks.Quote from: kozak on September 03, 2008, 11:22:04 AM

Where can I get the battery? Thanks.

I should also say that the "BIOS not installed" message has been appearing on my screen for the better part of 2 weeks now but the computer has started normally untill now. Also i did more reaserch and other people with similar MOBO's (p4-p800-e) have reported similar problems and they mentioned somehting about turning off raid controller in the bios?

Oh believe me I will!
My computer problems are almost never as simple as a battery change! Thanks again.

So I paid 25 bucks to have some guy come look at it.....his hardware tester said its bad MEMORY but we finally got it to turn on and his software tester that tests the hardware said its FINE so idk..... not saying MUCH cause this guy was an idiot but my theory is the memory is fine since its less then a year old and the memory slots in the motherboard are about to be shot and it turns on when it feels like working? Sound about right? Appreciate everyones HELP......if neone has free decent parts better then mine message me and ill take em...but otherwise I gotta build a new puter with all the new technology they got....(my 40gig hdd is small I guess since ipods hold about that now lol)So you've booted the computer?

Also, you may want to run Memtest.
http://www.memtest.org/

hi


i am WONDERING what happen to this mp3 player. i connect my mp3 to my computer but its not detected. i install the driver but nothing happen. but yesterday i plug it in other computer it detects and then a few second it disappear....

huhuhuhu.... whats happen to this mp3.
what should i going to do?

if you have a question just e-mail me here: [emailprotected]


this is a cd-r king product i already check it in the web.

this is the model of my mp3 SB-110
uses USB wire.... i don't know whats the NAME of this wire but its a small wire..... very small,,,,,.... hope you'l help me, ammm but i can CHARGE my device but my problem is i can see it on the computer.......

email addy removed to prevent SPAMStart > RIGHT click 'my computer' > properties > hardware > device manager

Open 'Universal Serial Bus Controllers' tree

Do you see any yellow icons?

I have had a generic plug and play CRT monitor for 8 years and have noticed over the last several months that everything, including web pages and all my pictures and videos, is slowly getting darker. I use the pictures as art reference material and before I save any to my hard drive, I will adjust the pictures for brightness and contrast using Photoshop, if needed. Using the file info I discovered that the older the PICTURE is, the darker it is. Same with my videos. I have updated all my drivers and adjusted the monitor to it's maximum. I have considered everything, I think, including my picture VIEWER, VuePro and BELIEVE the problem is the monitor. I have only had one other, also a CRT, but it died quickly, without much pain. I think this one is on life support!
Can anyone offer any ideas on this, maybe something I haven't thought of? If I have no choice, but to get another monitor, can I ask for opinions on which?

Mind Computer Products
Intel Celeron 1.80GHz
1 GB Ram
WinXP Home / SP2
S3 Graphics ProSavageDDR
Vinyl AC'97 Audio (WAVE)
AVG free
Spybot, Ad-aware, RegCure, SUPERAntiSpyware
CCleaner, HyJackthis, Malwarebytes' Anti-MalwareCan you try another monitor on the computer or your monitor on another computer?I'd agree 100% with CD re test on other PC - plus borrow another mon to try on your machine.

I will say tho - having over many years had numerous CRT mons ....... they do expire! Albeit gradually and often in earlier stages can be compensated by upping brightness and contrast but finally ....... you run out of settings!

I use LCD stuff now and (knocks on wood!) they are doing OK as they are on a lot - including standby.

There are various things that ''tire'' on CRT's IMO - the EHT driving the tube can diminish I reckon and also even over time the phosphors can become degraded. Then too the electron gun *censored*'y itself - that too can ''tire'' as cathodic coatings become diminished.

I stongly suspect - it's new mon time!! I thought of trying the monitor on another computer, but that may be a problem. Most of my friends have LEFT town, taking their machines with them. The only employer shut down and left, causing a huge migration to elsewhere. The few friends I see around are more interested in beer and golf than in computers, if can you imagine. I don't relish lugging around that monitor. What a monster! I have an old 386 somewhere in a crawlspace. I will try to find it.
I was sort of hoping that there was a free program I could run that would tell me something to the effect "your monitor is dying! You have X days left." If it is going to be a hassle, I think I will opt for a new one. I've be reading up on these flat screen LCD monitors, and other than dead pixels and the lot, for the price, it may be better for me in the end.If you can afford to get a LCD monitor I would just go ahead and go that route. Quote

I've be reading up on these flat screen LCD monitors, and other than dead pixels and the lot, for the price, it may be better for me in the end.

What happened was my Internet services were threatening to suspend us because they KEPT receiving complaints about bulk email coming from one of the TWO computers in the house. We invited a tech out to our house to clean the computers of any spyware, virus, trojans..even though both computers had no symptoms of infection. The day after he CAME this computer had so many symptoms it was impossible to work on.

Its an HP computer so it has a built in backup that will restore the computer back to factory settings. It would have been just like i bought it brand new. However the backup function did not work and neither did the backup disks it had me MAKE when i first bought it (4yrs ago). Sooooo..i formatted and installed win98 then xp home edition.

Heres my problem....

Before trying to back it up....
The computer had a D:HP_Recovery Drive that was just under 6gb
C: was just under 75gb.

But it shows that i only have the smaller one and i cant find the other larger portion.

I took a screen shot: http://www.geocities.com/chefabbe/scsh.GIF that shows conflicting information. at the top it show C: with the 5G and at the bottom it states disk 0 (c:) has 74.56gb

Theres nothing below cdrom 0.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to solve this problem. Im finding it really hard only functioning on 5gb.

Try right clicking 'disk management' then 'rescan disks'

So I was playing a game, and all of a sudden it FROZE on me. I had to boot my computer. After BOOTING, I am welcomed by a horribly pixely screen. I go to my device manager, and see that there's a problem with my video card.

It's a NVIDIA GeForce Go 6400. It says: This device cannot start. (Code 10)

I've tried updating, but there are no updates. What should I do? Uninstall, reinstall?
Hello!

Can yoou give us more info? Like system specs, OS... that sort of stuff.. Quote from: jerryheavyarms on February 29, 2008, 01:16:36 PM

Hello!

Can yoou give us more info? Like system specs, OS... that sort of stuff..

Try System Restore.

My sound is low when I TRY to listen to anything on the web. If I play a CD it may get a LITTLE louder not much. I don't know what kind of SPEAKER I have all i see is POLK AUDIO on the speaker it self. I am using windows XPIt'd be USEFUL to know something about your sound card.!

Is this recent problem - old problem? Does computer feed go straight to a passive speaker or do you have an amp in the speaker.?What Operating System?

Check your speakers?
What about Volume Control?

Can anybody here help me? I'm trying to find an older Logitech Mouse. I haven't seen it on eBay since last week. The mouse I'm trying to locate is the "M-CW47" mouse that has 4 buttons and a scroll wheel. The mouse is gray, with darker gray sides. The fourth button is on the left SIDE and is hit by the thumb.Go to google SEARCH, type in ezsystems & in their search type inmcw47I found the mouse I was looking for. LuluParts.com had the mouse. It cost me $38.03.Wow.....that's very expensive...

What are you USING it for?

Ive been trying to do some online shopping for my new mobo and cpu and what not and this new technology is killen me...(i thought i was a computer geek) if u wanna see what my computer currently is check out the random shut offs or not at all!! THREAD i had up a few days ago but im looking at getting this... http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3981671&csid=ITD&body=MAIN#productresources ....good? yes? no? i think its a good deal since its chip, board, and ram all for a decent price and it has to be better then what i have now. if i would get that (assuming its a good deal) what VIDEO card should i get? i do alot of limewire (i know i know) and general net surfing, and music, oh and movies that i download too...so i need a decent video card but i dont play games on it. Plz help! That system is fine. In fact almost any system you can buy now has enough cpu for 90% of consumers.

However, here is my opinion.

Currently AMD is playing a weak second banana to intel (sad too cause I'm an AMD fanboy usetobe).

If I were you I'd get an intel mobo like these: (I searched based on the features of the board you posted. Do you need 1394 firewire and spdif out?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=Property&Subcategory=280&Description=&Type=&N=2010200280+1070509908+107172277+1071728997&srchInDesc=&MinPrice=&MaxPrice=&PropertyCodeValue=705%3A9908&PropertyCodeValue=717%3A28997&PropertyCodeValue=727%3A7546&PropertyCodeValue=727%3A10689&PropertyCodeValue=727%3A10630&PropertyCodeValue=749%3A7612&PropertyCodeValue=749%3A20786&PropertyCodeValue=752%3A11332&PropertyCodeValue=752%3A11331&PropertyCodeValue=752%3A11333&PropertyCodeValue=757%3A7618

Basically for around a hundred bucks you can get a P35 motherboard.

As for processor:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116072

Thats am E5200 45nm 2.5GHz 2M cache dual core processor for 90 bucks. I have a 45nm 2.533 GHz E7200 that runs completely stable at 3.7GHz. Although I don't need it to be that fast so I run it at 3.383 GHz.

I don't know if your up to the challenge of over CLOCKING but even at stock frequencies that E5200 will run CIRCLES around the AMD 5000+.

And finally for RAM: pick the cheapest decent named part. I've found little compelling reasons to put expensive low latency memory in a system, better to buy more memory and run slower. The percentage difference between 800 and 1066 is not going to be enough to warrant spending extra money.

Here's an OCZ pair thats 22 bucks after rebate:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227139

That's a little higher in price than you were looking at but has much more legs IMO because socket 775 isn't going away until next year. By then you'll be able to buy a new proc with four cores or FASTER clock rates and upgrade without changing your motherboard.

After that Nehalem (aka Core i7) hits and the whole game changes again.

Good luck. Feel free to ask lots of questions. And let us know what you decide to do.

Raydude

When I plug it in to the usb port on my laptop and look in My Computer, it shows up as drive F. I can click on it and open it. It seems to have it's own operating system of sorts called Ceedo. I want to copy pics from it to my cd drive.
I right click on the folders I want and click on copy or click on "send to"/ cd drive. It begins like it's copying but the "files waiting to be written" balloon never comes up, and it does nothing"
I tried right clicking on the cd icon in My Computer, and hit properties/recording, there is a place that says:
Select a drive where windows can store an image of the cd to be written. A drop down has C,D, and F drives.
I thought selecting the F drive would get it working but it doesn't.
Any THOUGHTS from anyone?
Jim

win XP pro/ HP pavillion dv8130The built in burning feature in XP isn't very advanced. Try using a proper burning application instead and see if you don't get better results.
BurnAware and CDBurnerXP are both free and very good choices. Quote

I can click on it and open it. It seems to have it's own operating system of sorts called Ceedo.

When I plug it in to the usb port on my laptop and look in My Computer, it shows up as drive F. I can click on it and open it. It seems to have it's own operating system of sorts called Ceedo. I want to copy pics from it to my cd drive.

When I plug it in to the usb port on my laptop and look in My Computer, it shows up as drive F. I can click on it and open it. It seems to have it's own operating system of sorts called Ceedo. I want to copy pics from it to my cd drive.

Patio,
The "freeagent Go" is sold as an external hdd with Ceedo already on it. You plug in to a usb port and it opens up. "My Computer" sees it as an external drive. When you start Ceedo, you get what looks like a start menu for windows, but it's all on the ext. hdd.(Ceedo)

After installing a cd-rom game, the size of images and text (including icons and ...EVERYTHING) have magnified. How can I correct this back to the original size. I figured out how to decrease the size of the icons, but nothing else and it's very annoying...this is the first of many problems...I tried to restore to a previous date to correct but did SOMETHING very stupid - I accidentally went into system recovery and part way through the recovery process my husband knew it was the wrong thing to do and turned the computer off. Now everything is very messed up. The recovery HARD disk space is too full to EVEN perform disk defragmentation safely. It says that it requires 15% of free space but only has 5% of free space. Does anyone know if I should perform defrag. anyway?? (Windows XP, HP Pavillion)What version of Windows is this?
Your husband turned it off during a recovery process? Now that was the wrong thing to do.
Now you're computer is in some undefined state between the restore point and what it was before the restore.
My advice would be to reinstall Windows since interrupting a recovery operation can have messed up Windows PRETTY severely.
But before you do that, tell us what version of Windows it is and maybe someone comes along with an easier solution than reinstalling windows.
We have Microsoft Windows XP media center edition 2005 - I hope that's the information you're looking for - I'm not very computer savvy as you probably have figured out already...I'm not sure how to reinstall windows which is what I would do as a last resort, right? We would lose anything we have saved, right? Some good news, I did actually create the 3 recovery disks shortly after we purchased the computer (about 2 years ago) and I did get reconnected to internet despite all of these problems - a small miracle for me...thanks to anyone with advise...I still also would like to know if anyone has information about the size problem if anyone KNOWS what I mean...?Quote from: allecj on March 03, 2008, 11:41:34 AM

I'm not sure how to reinstall windows which is what I would do as a last resort, right? We would lose anything we have saved, right?

Some good news, I did actually create the 3 recovery disks shortly after we purchased the computer

I still also would like to know if anyone has information about the size problem if anyone knows what I mean...?

Hi,

I have a Sony Vaio PCG-7D1M laptop. When I switch it on, it displays the Sony Vaio logo for about 30 seconds, then the screen goes blank and nothing else happens. I can't press and keys to get it to go into the bios. It doesn't shut itself down, it just remains powered on with a blank screen.

If there is a cd in the drive, it will spin that, and all the other lights on come (power led, wifi led ETC...). The power light stays on green, but the battery light is orange. If I plug in the power cable, the battery light blinks a few times, then goes back to solid orange.

Any ideas what is WRONG???

Nick

nickc,Not really very knowledgeable about laptops.However have you tried removing the battery and running it just off the A/C power supply? If so what were the results? truenorthHi,
Yes, I tried removing the battery. When I plugged in the power cable and turned it on, it was completely dead. I also noticed that the cable was a little loose in the socket. This leads me to think it is a problem with the power socket (or maybe the power adapter).
I guess that the battery has run down to a point where it will allow the laptop to be powered on, but not to be booted upQuote

allow the laptop to be powered on, but not to be booted up

Try connecting an external monitor to your laptop.

its getting power i cant tell on startup theres a light and when i try ot open it there is a light and a sound of it trying to open but it DOESNT heres what i did i took it out took took the front bezle and thing and painted them so the front of the drive is completley painted and when i took off the front bezle and when i was putting them back on i think i herd something moving in the top middleish area mabye i should open it and see if something is loose?you can open the drive with a paper clip through the small hole in front. i cant tell you how to REPAIR but these drives are very cheap i tried that too DIDNT workReplace the driveim poor the only money i have is for a new gpu i herd something loose i think mabye i should open it up and check for something looseDo what ever you thinkSince you'll LIKELY need an optical drive to install Windows i'd buy a drive before a new GPU...

40 BUCKS shipped for a dual layer DVD drive from newegg...RIGHT

What do the VARIOUS F BUTTONS do? (F1-F12)http://www.aarp.org/learntech/computers/howto/a2003-03-28-functionkeys.html

What's up guys

K so i have a fairly SIMPLE problem that im HOPING u can help with

I have a ATI 9250 AGP graphics card video card with a VGA and SVGA output ( I think thats what its called, the white one that looks like the blue VGA but a bit bigger). I have an adapter cord from the SVGA to the HDMI input on my HDTV.

Now here's the kicker, the SCREEN displays everything perfectly, but as soon as i turn off my tv, and then back on again, nothing shows up. I have to change my resolution settings on my display settings in WINDOWS to 'refresh' the image, and after i do that it's fine again until i restart my TV.

So my question is what do i have to do so i don't have to do this 'refresh' bs with my resolution so that when i turn on my TV, the signal from the computer is automatically there again.

THanks in advance
mushinmhbu

you mean dvi right?
ya that's the one.. DVI.. and its a cable from DVI to HDMI in my TV

i'm looking for a disassembly guide for my dell inspiron e1505 (laptop) with really detailed pictures. i can't seem to find any through searches..i found one for my old laptop, but no luck yet for my dell.

if there aren't and guides or pictures, the question i need answered is i'm looking to see if there's room inside the laptop to put another harddrive to run as a slave. i know i could just TAKE apart my computer to see if there's room, but i'd rather only do it once when i actually go to install the harddrive. my COMPAQ had a spot for an extra harddrive, so i'm hoping that my dell does too...Have a look here...

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins6400/en/sm/index.htm

From what I see there is no place for a second hard drive Better to use an external one.

Alan <>< okay, so if there's no space inside the computer, would it be possible to hook up the harddrive to my laptop somehow? the reason i wanted to add it to my laptop was mainly so i could get all the info off the drive. my compaq's power supply died and there are files on it that i'd like to steal back. the other reason obviously was to add more space. i have i think 70ish gb on the dell, a 40gb external hd and i think the compaq is probably 40ish too.

i ALSO have access to a desktop if putting the hd into that would let me get access to my files. unless i'm making THINGS more complicated for myself and there's an easier way to get these files?i believe, if i am not mistaken that if you put it as slave, then you should be able to access is in your desktop

Laptop to IDE connector....about 10 bucks at any Computer store.
This will allow you to hook up the laptop drive to your desktop and grab your data...

That's providing the drive still works.sounds GOOD, i had already found the connector online so hopefully the drive still works. i'm assuming it does, but i'm not 100% positive.

thanks!

hi guys and GIRLS this is my FIRST post here and i thank you all in advance for reading and possibly replying so here is my problem
i have a acer 9300 aspire running vista with 2MB ram the video card is a geforce go 6100 i few weeks ago i WENT to watch a downloaded video and when it started to play it crashed to the bluescreen and then restarted it checked online and said the problem is with the nvidia , so i thought that maybe i had downloaded a virus or something so i did a full system restore however the problem remains . The laptop works in every other way it just wont play a video either through wmp or any other media PLAYER i have tried many . i have spend hours downloading driver updates and nothing works . i have restored it and its like a new comp but i still cant watch any type of movie plzzz help
A video driver update may or may not be the source of the issue...
With laptops the recommended drivers for video should be from the laptop manuf. site...
Did you install an nVidia update by chance ? ?
If so travel back to the laptop site and install their video drivers and see if this corrects things...or revert to the ones on the driver CD that shipped with the laptop.thanks for the reply , i have updated the drivers with every one from the nvidia website and also the ones from acer i have also used the system reinstall which is on my hidden harddrive to put the laptop back to factory settings . i understand a bit about comps and do believe it to be hardware but is it possible that everthing works like games and stuff it just wont play video .... im sooo confused Do you get blue screen crashes no matter what video / media player you try to use?Quote

d the drivers with every one from the nvidia website and also the ones from acer i

Please help people, ive got a serious problem. I had a power cut yesterday, and obviously the COMPUTER went off. But when the ELECTRICITY returned the computer automatically turned itself on but there was no signal to the monitor, the dvd DRIVE doesnt have any lights or open, the keyboard doesnt work, the MOUSE laser is on, motherboard light is on, USB devices dont work and finally i cant turn it off, i have to take the plug outa the wall. Im in bit of a pickle because i have lots of assignments to be doing. Any help will be gratefully received, I have checked all cables, took all components out and in again. I just dont know what to do. Thanx

Jamie Could be a bad power supply / motherboard / RAM. Try stripping the system (remove any expansion cards...network, modem. sound, etc.) to just the motherboard, RAM & video, reboot and see what comes up.

POST back with the results.

Alan <>< Are you using any backup UPS or something that could protect your computer from power surges?

What hardware will I need to be ABLE to watch LIVE video from live security camera's? I don't think, you need any EXTRA hardware, beside camera itself.
Obviously, it COMES with some software.This MAY help

http://www.wavestore.com/resources.php?rid=demo

Just want to double check a few things for my new build.
First of all, I'm in the UK - don't link me to Newegg, ncix, or anywhere else that doesn't ship to me.

I'm looking into a new build, it needs to be as cheap as possible, definitely no more than £800. I already have a mouse and mousepad I'm happy to reuse as well as an OS, everything else needs to be bought. The case can't be huge as I only have a small space to fit it in, something like 50cm x 40cm x 30cm, which will take a smallish standard ATX case. I'd like a 19" LCD, and also the PC will be for gaming and college work. It will be overclocked at some point, so good cooling is a must, but it should be fairly quiet too, no jet plane engines as coolers please. Any extras like a card reader would be welcome, but aren't essential. Finally, it needs to be upgradeable so it can last a long time, I don't want to waste money on something that will be out of date in a year, or something that's great now but offers no upgrade paths.
I do have a preliminary build specced out and bookmarked, but it'd be nice to see what else you guys can come up with.

Thanks in advance.first off, what is a good UK online retail site? dabs.com, ebuyer.com, overclockers.co.uk, aria.co.uk, microdirect.co.uk
They're all pretty good, and I have either used them or my friends have.
Dabs is the one I usually use because they have generally better service and the prices tend to be better. Overclockers has a better higher-end selection of products, but not so much in the mid to low end, and their prices are fairly high.prices and parts from dabs.com

Monitor
Case
Power Supply
Motherboard
CPU
RAM
Video Card
Harddrive
Optical Drive

the total comes to £765.43. if you wish to overclock your CPU, you may wish to purchase a thermalright ultra 120 and a scythe slip stream kaze, or a scyther ultra kaze, 120mm FAN.That doesn't look bad, but just so you know, for £808 I got an 8800GT, SLI motherboard, Blue Orb FX cooler, 4Gb OCZ Reaper RAM, a 600W OCZ PSU, a 320Gb HDD, and two optical drives (I often need to make disk to disk copies).
Admittedly the case wasn't as good, but the Jr Armor leaves very little clearance in the space it needs to be in (approx 50x50, width doesn't really matter).
Overall I prefer my build, as the SLI motherboard and 600W PSU are more future proof, and 4Gb of RAM sure would be nice.
The Thermalright Ultra + fan brings the price up a fair amount too, I don't think I can afford that.I bought a computer a while ago and FOUND out it was really noisy. I did some customizations and found out how to make it quiet. A bunch of 20dBA or less - 120mm fans.
The noise is determined as shown on the Zalman website
20dBA or less is noiseless
above 20dBA but below 25dBA is silent
above 25dBA but below 30dBA is normal

The power supply, CPU and the video card fan are the noisiest. I would recommend changing these to a silent model if you want a silent PC.
Zalman and Cooler Master has power supplies with a bottom 120mm fan that come with a decent warranty. Zalman comes with a 3 year warranty. I use the 460 model, but there is a 360 model which is cheaper.
http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/CategorySecond_Pic.asp?categoryname=Power%20Supplies&categorySecond=

From the size of the case, it maybe difficult and/or impossible to put in such a large CPU/heatsink and fan. This is the one that I use.
http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/cpu/029/scasm1000_detail.html

The video cards available all have tiny fans, and the fanless ones are too expensive. I am unable to make any recommendation for this sorry.

Look for a case that can hold 120mm intake and exhaust fans. A larger fan can push more air with less noise.

Try to get a fanless motherboard. I believe they are coming out with models with a small fan attached to some chips on the board.

This case has not come out yet, but it is one that leaves room for complete upgradability. Your dimensions seem kinda odd, and I am not sure if this will work. You can add up to 12 hard drives, 9 - 5.25 drives, 3 - 120mm fans or a combo on the front.
http://www.coolermaster.com/products/product.php?language=en&act=detail&tbcate=17&id=3927

I can vouch for the 120mm fans. My computer is very quiet. My kids thought it was broken it was so quiet.

You will have to determine how much you are willing to spend on quiet and cooling. It seems that there is a premium for quiet.

Hope this helpsQuote from: Calum on February 26, 2008, 10:02:02 AM

That doesn't look bad, but just so you know, for £808 I got an 8800GT, SLI motherboard, Blue Orb FX cooler, 4Gb OCZ Reaper RAM, a 600W OCZ PSU, a 320Gb HDD, and two optical drives (I often need to make disk to disk copies).
Admittedly the case wasn't as good, but the Jr Armor leaves very little clearance in the space it needs to be in (approx 50x50, width doesn't really matter).
Overall I prefer my build, as the SLI motherboard and 600W PSU are more future proof, and 4Gb of RAM sure would be nice.
The Thermalright Ultra + fan brings the price up a fair amount too, I don't think I can afford that.

I have an acer travelmate 360 it crashed and now when I turn it on, it only stays on for a few seconds before shutting down, how can I get my STUFF off the hard drive. I also have a later model, (2 year later) of the travelmate, can I take the hard drive out of it and place mine in it to recover my stuff
Thanks
Any help is greatly appreciated no you cant , the change in hardware will throw a red flag and it most likely will not boot.U can get an adapter like this one at tiger direct and as LONG as it is not your hard drive that crash can hook it up to a working machine and save the data you want . I have one and it works great.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2329300&CatId=470if your acer is nearly new you can reset it back to factory settings but it will format the disk if you can get into the bios check if the settings has d2d if it has change it to enabled make SURE you have power plugged in and not on the battery exit the bios the system will reboot when the acer logo is showing press + at the same time to enter the recovery process follow the on screen prompts this will make the system like new this works on vista not know if it works on xpQuote from: alan5home on March 12, 2008, 06:37:45 PM

if your acer is nearly new you can reset it back to factory settings but it will format the disk if you can get into the bios check if the settings has d2d if it has change it to enabled make sure you have power plugged in and not on the battery exit the bios the system will reboot when the acer logo is showing press &LT;alt&GT; + <F10> at the same time to enter the recovery process follow the on screen prompts this will make the system like new this works on vista not know if it works on xp

yes it said it couldnt FIND fileOk i reinstalled it i hope it works... i had to search every file in the search THING that it asked for it needed LIKE 20 files Did you get it working?IT said it installed but sound is not working me SAD

well I finally got the IDE Cables and card installed in My computer but I did not connect the HDD's to the card they are off the MOBO . Problem is the driver wants to unzip to a floppy drive for install. No floppy on this system. I've tried to redirect it to C drive or D drive (both Harddrives) but neither seem to have the files. also cant get the DVD-RW to be seen either,surely this is due to the driver issue . ant help would be most APPRECIATIVE
Does the documentation specify whether the hardware should be installed before the drivers, or should ONE install the driver software first?Unzip it to a thumb drive....you have USB ports, yes ?All hail Maud Dib!

See? I come along and ask my lame questions, and Patio bails me out!

No such thing as lame questions here...we don't operate that way.
Glad you're fixed up.No, we don't know if he's fixed yet -- I'm just saying people post problems, and I come along and ask the equivalent of "Is your computer turned on?" and then you ask the good STUFF...let's see how this goes... I didn't realise the OP had been abducted...

Lately (something I've never heard before), I've noticed while watching a movie, LISTENING to music, gaming, etc, the sound will cut to a static-sounding noise. I can barely hear it in the background, and eventually it just goes back to normal. How do I know if this is my card or my speakers? It's sometimes too random to test it on another computer and know for sure. To determine if it is the speakers hook them up to another MACHINE...
How old is this sound card ?It's hard to say exactly how old....I'd guess about 2 years, maybe a LITTLE more. It's a soundblaster audigy 2 ZS...so whenever that came out. It's tough to test it on another computer because it doesn't HAPPEN often enough......

hi,my desktop pc keeps freezing..the pc is a tiny desktop running win m.e. Ive TRIED taking it back to factory setting using the disc i got with the pc but once it has loaded it seem to freeze almost immediaely...The pc is ok when i go into safe mode...CELERON 900 MHZ

128MB SDRAM

VIA PLE CHIPSET MOTHERBOARD..



the cpu is brand new..so that rules out overheating..i tried to load win xp but once i click to open the SOFTWARE it freezes up....any help would be greatly appreciated...theted.....
Quote from: theted on March 12, 2008, 07:55:59 AM

the cpu is brand new..so that rules out overheating

Quote from: theted on March 12, 2008, 07:55:59 AM

the cpu is brand new..so that rules out overheating

No it doesn't, overheating has very little to do with how new or old the processor is.
You say the processor is new. Does that mean you have replaced it recently?

Did you self replace it? If you did, are there enough paste on the top of it.

That's the power supply otherwise known as the PSU.
How clean was it inside the case when you did this ? ?

How about inside the rest of the case? Any dust there?

Quote from: squall_01 on March 12, 2008, 12:18:12 PM

Did you self replace it? If you did, are there enough paste on the top of it.

He didn't replace the CPU...read what was posted.

Quote from: patio on March 12, 2008, 01:19:04 PM

Quote from: squall_01 on March 12, 2008, 12:18:12 PM

Did you self replace it? If you did, are there enough paste on the top of it.

He didn't replace the CPU...read what was posted.

He said that the CPU was brand new. so that rules out overheating then you said about the PSU

You may want to have your friend go through this troubleshooting guide: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph06788&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=60483&rule=7839&lang=en

Quote from: denyel25 on July 09, 2008, 12:57:19 PM

Are PSUs universal?

Thanks for the troubleshooting guide. I like to be able to try and figure it out myself and if I had this yesterday, I wouldn't have went to my friend. I'll give this all a try when I go home tonight before spending money on a new PSU. Thanks again!

I went through the steps in the trouble shooting guide (I messed around) and it seems everything is leading to a bad power supply.

I'll keep you posted.

Thankfully I am up and running again.

Recently I have stopped using my computer as much as I used to and have found that the computer has STARTED to take more and more attempts at starting up. When I attempt to turn the power on the fans whir and it begins to load before everything stops while the lights to the keyboard and the lights on the tower box remain on. This can take many attempts before finally loading up Windows and seems to improve (or last longer booting) with each attempt at switching on until it eventually loads. If I leave the computer off for a while it takes even longer to boot while if the computer has been in use quite recently before then it tends to load straight away making me think this is temperature related. I have not installed any new hardware or software recently and the problem MAY have been occuring for a while as I remember a few occassions where this happened while the computer was more commonly used (it's still in use every day however, just not quite every minute!).

I am unsure as to what is being affected by this however and have no idea how I would go about fixing it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!Too cold? -> No.

I would test the power SUPPLY. Borrow one, if you can, of at least the same wattage, install it and see if you have the same problem.

I would also test the hard drive with the hard drive manufacturer's diagnostic utility which you can download from the drive manufacturer's website.Ok, am doing a diagnostic for the hard drive now though I did get a new PSU a couple of months ago but do not have another one with the same wattage to test it but it is likely to be that. Is there any way of repairing it or would I need to buy a new one?No - you cannot repair a power supply; replace only. Don't open the cage - high voltage may be present.

Why did you replace the power supply?Got a new graphics card that needed a HIGHER wattage psu.

Hard drive scan CAME up OK. Will take it in to a shop to get a new PSU fitted and see if they can find anything else wrong. Thanks a lot for the help!Please post back and let us know how you make out.

hello. ive been TRYING to fix my cousin's pc for quite a while now, and have done many things but have no solutions. i tried copying the ntldr file from the xp installation cd through recovery CONSOLE and it didn't work. so i checked his partitions, and i have concluded that the wrong partition is SET as active. problem is, i dont know how to change the one with the OS on it to active. i googled but FOUND only very brief, undetailed things.

specs:
windows xp home
intel p4 2.6 ghz
about 1.5 GB ram
on sp1 for now, i had to take sp2 off to install recovery console
http://tinyempire.com/notes/ntldrismissing.htm

I had the same problem recently. I used fixboot and fixmbr from memory.
You could also do a search here to find some more info.

greg

I want to buy one of the followings but don't know which one is any good. Please help.

System 1- $220
-AMD Athlon 64 3500+ socket 939 w/ Artic Silver
-MSI K8N-F SLI Premium
-1GB Dual Channel Kingston PC3200
-ATI Radeon x300SE
-250GB Western Digital Caviar 2SE SATA
-Antec Quiet EarthWatts 380W (EA 380)
-X-BLADE Gaming Case with Clear Window and fans
-Windows XP Media Centre 2005 Edition w/ COA
-BenQ Super Multi Burner (20x)
-LG DVD Drive
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/yrk/sys/750820258.html

System 2- $450
-ASUS A8V-E SE (socket 939, PCI-E slot)
-AMD Athlon64 3700+ (2.2ghz, San Diego Core)
-2GB (2x1GB) Dual Channel OCZ Platinum (2-2-2-5) PC3200 / DDR400
-EVGA 6800GS (256mb DDR3 PCI-E)
-Antec Sonata III Mid tower
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/sys/751112378.html

System 3-$350
-250 GB hard drive
-SiS Ultra256 2D/3D Graphics Accelerator
-Logitech wireless/cordless gaming mouse and keyboard
-ADI AD1888 6-channel 3D audio
-Onboard 10/100 Network Card
-450 Watt Power Supply
-1285 Deluxe Black Tower Case
-20X DVD/CD BURNER
-AMD Sempron 3000+ Processor
-ATI Radeon EAX1EAX1550TD 256MB
-ECS Motherboard
-1 GB Memory
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/sys/749083823.html

System 4- $450
athlon X2 3800+ CPU
X1600 PRO 512 MB!
2 gb of ram!
250 GB HDD!
WINDOWS VISA HOME PREMIUM SP1
lots of software included
microsoft enterprize 2007
ADOBE CS3 master collection
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/sys/738620374.htmlthe best looking one so far is system number 4, however, the seller is not LISTING his RAM type, mobo make/model, or power supply.What will you do with the computer? Internet? Game? Office applications?

Are you looking only at used systems?I am buying it mainly to play games that are obviously not new released but a YEAR or so old.