Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I am in the PROCESS of configuring and building a computer for a friend. He uses the computer for business applications and surfing the web. No gaming that I know of. Comments and suggestions welcome on what I have so far.

Processor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115037

MB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131377

Ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231166

PSU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004

Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130297

HD http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148395

DVD Burner http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151187

Case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119047

Monitor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236048

Keyboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126013

Mouse http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826105183

OS http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116511

Price so far is about $1000 which is within his budget, but because his processor and graphics requirements are so low, I wouldn't mind saving him a few bucks. Maybe on the mb? He want's it to last several years, or I would build him a much cheaper one.

I went with a dual core instead of a quad because, as I understand it, the dual core with a higher clock speed will actually be faster than a quad with a lower clock speed on apps that do not make use of all the cores. Is this correct? critique pleaseFor his use, SKIP the dual-core and get a P4-3GHz for $100 less. Save another $100 with a slightly smaller monitor. Save some more with onboard video. You should be ABLE to do a nice build for less than $250.Not a fan of the p4.

I was thinking of a smaller monitor, but he said he wanted a large one. I also looked for a reliable (good REVIEWS) mb with onboard video but was not successful. I will keep looking.

Some of the links don't work. Wonder why?http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102838
If all he is doing is browsing the web and using business things, you dont need such a good dual core.Stay with the dual core, as the Internet becomes more and more graphics intensive. Processing power is always good.I agree, you would never want to build a computer with a single core now.Thanks for the replies.

I have been doing a little more research and an leaning towards the PHENOM 2

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103648

And this mb with onboard video http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130224 It uses ddr 3 ram but that doesn't add any to the cost.Looks good toohttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813186168

Foxconn A7DA-S 3.0 AM3 AMD 790GX HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail , it's $10 cheaper than the MSI mb you listed Quote

imit 9999 per customer

XDXD

who would buy 10,000 of those?

What Video card Company do you prefer?

I prefer nVidia because I tried one ATI product and it failed on my PC. I also tried a nVidia and it worked like a charm. I did this on old hardware i auctioned form eBay.Depends on which card is the best for me at the time I want it.
I have a Mobility Radeon X1600 in my laptop which is perfectly FINE, although it runs a little hot.
I have an Nvidia 8800GT in my main machine which I've been very pleased with.
I have an Nvidia 9500GT in my server for Folding @ Home which I'm also pleased with.
The family machine has SiS integrated GRAPHICS which they're fine with.
I've used graphics cards and chips from other vendors, such as Intel and S3 Graphics, and they've all been perfectly fine.

To me it's not the VENDOR or OEM that MATTERS, it's what's best for me or the user and the machine's intended purpose. I don't think anybody can say "X company is always better" because that's the nature of the industry.there a lot like cpu's know really differnce. You'll find that some preform better then others an that each are designed for there own reasons. Gameing an Video editting are big conterveries but you could GET away with useing ether of them.Quote from: Calum on July 01, 2009, 03:12:20 AM

Depends on which card is the best for me at the time I want it.
I have a Mobility Radeon X1600 in my laptop which is perfectly fine, although it runs a little hot.
I have an Nvidia 8800GT in my main machine which I've been very pleased with.
I have an Nvidia 9500GT in my server for Folding @ Home which I'm also pleased with.
The family machine has SiS integrated graphics which they're fine with.
I've used graphics cards and chips from other vendors, such as Intel and S3 Graphics, and they've all been perfectly fine.

To me it's not the vendor or OEM that matters, it's what's best for me or the user and the machine's intended purpose. I don't think anybody can say "X company is always better" because that's the nature of the industry.

for my new AT&T "Fast Access LITE"768Kbs account.I have an older Gateway(Model#KAD K7),prob. CAME from factory w/Wind98,but was upgraded w/XP,extra RAM put in,too.It only used Dialup,before.It seems to have capacity & speed to handle DSL:Tune -up tells me Processor is AMD Athlon 800MHz,Memory,512MB.Seems installing should be no different from a dial up modem which I've done in past &I'm an electronic tech. for over 30YRS. Just NEED one w/Ethernet port,&works out w/this PC,for decent price to serve the function.Grateful thanks in ADVANCE for name of card & where to obtain since ATT gives me no help here,(but the've already helped themselves to billing me for what I cannot use ,yet!)Are you looking for PCI?

Have you checked Newegg?Whoops, that was the wrong link, try this one for NIC[/url].

I have a ASUS mini notebook that I am trying to uprade the 16g SSD to a new, faster 32G SSD. I am having TROUBLE booting up the notebook from the drive. I installed the drive and LOADED the OS from the ASUS recovery CD but it still won't boot from the new SSD.

I have (its a long, long story) done some partitioning and other operations to the new SSD.

How can I tell if the new SSD is configured to ALLOW the PC to boot from it?Does it show up properly in the BIOS ? ?
What partition TOOLS did you use and did you remember to set the 1st partition active ? ?

Is there one that connects through an LAN port? My Usb ports aren't working and one of these would be a life saver!No>If this is a desktop you can GET a pci usb cardIf you are USING an after market USB internal HUB I would suggest you go through device manager to be sure the drivers for the card are ACTIVE and UTD.

Any MOBO USB ports should work. Had the same issue on my Compac EVO desktop.Quote from: Lolly on July 01, 2009, 03:51:09 PM

Is there one that connects through an LAN port?

Hello
SOMEONE say the type of HARDWARE and driver makes good or bad result in QUALITY of playing, converting and editing of multimedia FILES (video/music).

Is it TRUE? If I converting multimedia file with Intel based PC for example, have good output or AMD?

Thanks
Whether it's an Intel or AMD shouldn't make a difference in quality.Quote

Whether it's an Intel or AMD shouldn't make a difference in quality.

I'm using black CD-R's, using Burn4Free. It starts and then stops at a random percentage, around 0%-20%. I've gone through 32 failed cd's and am down to my last 3, but I have a feeling it will go to 100% UNEXPLAINED! >=D

Any way to increase my chances in this lottery? (Reports a "WRITER ERROR")You should have stopped wasting CD-R's. I know they're not expensive really but it saves you time from having to go get new ones anyway.

Why did you not go buy a cd-rw (Rewritable CD media) when you discovered many CD-R's were not burning right and giving you problems? You could've tested the burning out without wasting new discs.

Also, have you tried burning audio with wndows media player (assuming you want to make an audio cd ... one that your car's cd player deck would be able to play)? Try different program, CDBurnerXP: http://cdburnerxp.se/Quote from: 2x3i5x on June 29, 2009, 06:44:19 PM

You should have stopped wasting CD-R's. I know they're not expensive really but it saves you time from having to go get new ones anyway.

Why did you not go buy a cd-rw (Rewritable CD media) when you discovered many CD-R's were not burning right and giving you problems? You could've tested the burning out without wasting new discs.

Also, have you tried burning audio with wndows media player (assuming you want to make an audio cd ... one that your car's cd player deck would be able to play)?

Failing optical driver don't issue any warnings. Good last night, bad today.
You can get a new drive for the money, you're gonna waste for a new packs of CDs.

Try different program, CDBurnerXP: http://cdburnerxp.se/

I bought my Dell computer a few months ago and had PROBLEMS logging into Windows VISTA. It would say no hard disk found. I called tech support twice and it would log on, but as soon as it went into POWER saver mode or turned off, it would do the same thing, not starting windows. They eventually told me my hard DRIVE was bad and are sending out someone to install a new one. They require me to send in my old hard drive to get the new one, but all my information is on there.
Is there any way to get my information off of the hard drive?
I really need to get an external hard drive but didn't have one yet.

Thanks!
MelissaNot if the drive has already failed.

In the future back up all of your personal data and documents.No Hard Disk Found is a very serious error. Generally drives that are undetectable by the BIOS are beyond normal data recovery methods and would require a professional data recovery center to EXTRACT the data for you in a clean room environment where they mix your drives components with another same model, and revision firmware drive.

If you have any information stored on this drive that is extremely confidential and you are willing to take the data loss, I would destroy that drive with a hammer and buy a new hard drive for about $60 to $80 and install the OS to the system from the system recovery set.

If the hard drive does not have information that could ruin your identity and credit etc, you can send it back for warranty replacement and save $60-$80 on a new HD.

If your system did not come with a restore CD or DVD set then you will likely need Dell to reinstall the OS to the drive for you.

Sorry that there is no easy data recovery method for a drive like this.When the repair man, you might ask him if he would be able to recover files off the hard drive (assuming it's been confirmed that the old hard drive is deifinitely out of order)Slave Drive Tutorial

This can be done by anyone you may know who has a reasonable level of PC skills...

I have a Dell 4700 with Windows XP, about four years old, going on five. The system has ALWAYS had fan issues - the fan runs super loud, and the computer tends to overheat. The past year it's been running pretty bad, making a ton of noise and having a tendency to shut down unexpectedly. The screen will suddenly go white with a series of jagged colored lines, and then after a few seconds, shut down. The monitor appears to go first, but the fan will remain on. After this happens, I will try to turn the computer on, only to have the front left light turn on and glow orange - the other light that indicates full start-up and is supposed to be green doesn't light up at all. The front left light will glow and the fan will start to growl and stay on, but the rest of the computer doesn't start up.

I would like to think that this is a fan problem, but I've tried letting the thing cool down and it still does this as soon as I start it up again. If this computer is on the fritz, is there still a way for me to turn it on and backup my files? I've got about 3000 dollars of music on there and my academic records and files, as well as all of my digital images from the past four years. Some of these things are on my portable USB, some are not, so it would be excellent to get one last shot with the thing if we know it's going to die.

Overall it has been a pretty computer, and I would not recommend it to anyone, even if they were looking for a cheap desktop.

ALSO: For all INTENSIVE purposes it should be mentioned that basically I just turned it on tonight for the first successful time in two weeks, and it shut down after about five minutes of use. Before that, I was constantly getting the orange light without startup. So if I need to download anything to check it or use it, I don't think I will be able to do so for quite a while. The thing apparently needs to "rest" for a while before I can even get five minutes of use out of it. UGH.If you KEPT it overheated for a year, no wonder, it finally got upset with you.
Slave the hard drive in another computer, or use hard drive enclosure to retrieve your data (if HD is not damaged, as well).Quote from: Broni on June 30, 2009, 09:34:48 PM

If you kept it overheated for a year, no wonder, it finally got upset with you.
Slave the hard drive in another computer, or use hard drive enclosure to retrieve your data (if HD is not damaged, as well).

I have a Dell 4700 with Windows XP, about four years old, going on five. The system has always had fan issues

Is there something that needs to be modified in the BIOS to get a SATA DVD RW drive to be recognized.Doesn't appear in My Computer.Doesn't appear in Device Manager. Power connection working as drawer opens/closes. There are 2 SATA connections on the MOBO-just arbitrarily chose ONE. O/S = xp pro sp2. This is the only SATA device in this computer.truenorthThe CD-ROM Drive will show up in the BIOS. But you have to enable enable each IDE and SATA device in the BIOS on many DELL computers.Geek-9pm,Thanks will check that out and reply.truenorthDue to time constraints and other priorities i have not yet gotten back to the Dell computer mentioned in this post (it is my least used computer and has a very SPECIFIC FUNCTION connected to an HD TV). However i have been trying to research the internet to add more knowledge to this issue. By doing searches on google and also the Dell site i keep seeing a reference to SATA hardrives being connected to the internal MOBO connectors and NEVER a reference to optical devices. Is it possible that the SATA connectors in this computer cannot be connected to anything but HDD's? Or are they automatically universal like the IDE cables are with regards to both optical and HDD devices? truenorthThey are universal...same as IDE.Update. I felt (given that it is pouring rain here today) that it was time to move this topic along.Gained access to BIOS (via F2) Entered "drive configuration' Found that SATA drives (primary and secondary) were "selected "OFF".Not knowing which of the 2 i was connected to i selected both into the "auto" mode.Saved changes and exited the BIOS.Restarted the computer.Message came up indicating "no primary SATA found."NEW hardware found window opened identifying correctly the SATA DVD rw drive.Next window to open was searching for drivers. Nothing really occurred after that window closed. Inserted a variety of media into the SATA DVD rw drive. All instances the little green light on the front of the drive bay illuminated for a brief period.I could hear the drive spinning up. No windows ever opened on the desktop. No audio/video players ever opened. No audio or video ever displayed.I have windows media player,realplayer.roxio version 5,musicmatch in programs on that computer. Any other info required please ask. Suggestions please. truenorthFurther update. I could give you a fairly long dissertation as to additional "progress" on this issue but suffice to say success was not the end result.I have contacted the manufacturer and while the individual stated an unfamiliarity with SATA devices he has instructed me to send it back for replacement to them in California.Basically what has ended up is that it recognizes and plays audio discs but does not detect DVD disc when they are in the drive. So i guess it could be a defective video laser? Time will tell and i shall let you know the results when i receive and install the replacement.That may be a while so don't hold your breath.truenorthYep.
Good diagnosis...sounds like a bad laser after all...
Best of Luck.Well "I'm Back" --this one has MOSS growing on it--but i promised an update when i got my "replacement" SATA drive back. So today the completion event occurred. It's in.It works with all optical media. I guess if i could add to the general knowledge the lesson would be--even brand new out of the box never used products can be defective.Therefore the retention of receipts becomes important. In this particular case the "Manufacturer as part of their return policy insists on it being returned in "all" original packaging. So don't be too quick to toss the packaging if it still is in the warranty period. Thanks again to all that originally came to my assistance,truenorthGood Advice and glad to hear you are all fixed up...

When I try to play an audio clip, I hear sound coming from the computer itself but not from my speakers.

How do I turn off the sound from the computer and play it through the speakers? I would still want the "Beep" to come through the computer if possible for new emails notification. Is there a way to leave that Beep or does all sound from the computer have to be turned off?PLEASE POST additional info,

hardware specs, OSWe are using Vista, It's an HP compaq desktop computer. ACAUG99,welcome to the Ch forums. The ability to hear sound from your speakers is most likely a function of choosing the proper settings from "my computer" "sounds and audio devices".Under the "volume" tab open the advanced and ensure that your levels are set appropriate to your chosen desires and that the speakers are not "muted". Also ensure that your speaker male connection plug is in the correct FEMALE location on the rear of the sound card on the computer.This should not affect the ability of you to still hear the various windows generated sounds even with your speakers not powered. hope this answers your question.truenorth
P.S. This ASSUMES a properly installed functioning sound card.It would also assume that the speakers work. Is there a way for you to test them?
Maybe with a walkman or discman?

It was a bit of sillyness. copy data from files into other, unrelated files in an attempt to PREVENT SLACK space. It would CORRUPT the files THOUGH.

Greetings.

My sister's computer (windows xp) will not load. It goes to the accounts PAGE (welcome page) only and upon clicking the account it says loading personal settings and then the desktop FLASHES for 1 second and then says saving settings, and then will not load, it just stays on the account page. Restarting in safe mood does not work either as it does the same thing. This was right after downloading AVG and Spybot and running them. The computer did not have any antivirus program before. Furthermore, running spybot and AVG it found of course malware,spyware,viruses and I deleted/fixed them, then proceeded to restart the computer. And here we are. PLEASE HELP!!Will it load in safemode ? ?No it will not. It does the same thing.

Hello All,
Received a windows pop up stating that my vm was low and Windows was reproducing, etc.
I re-booted and the pop up was no longer visible.
Did a ctrl/alt/delete to Task Manager>processes tab>view>select column>clicked vm size box>clicked the top of the vm column and found 2 ScanningProcesses.exe. One using 140,736K and the other using 140,732K - also a Zlclient.exe using 15,560K.
I thought maybe the three were combined, so i posted on the ZA forum.

This is my first experience with this situation and the first using the Task Manager.
Is it normal to be running two ScanningProcesses.exe ? Alot of my processes are using 12-98,000K, is this normal ?

Thank you for any help offered.It all depends how much RAM/VM you have.
Look at the bottom of Task Manager, and see what PERCENTAGE of physical memory is used.
dear BRONI,

thank you for the response.

went into task manager>Performance tab with these RESULTS:

Physical Memory
Total K = 3135564
Available K = 2687784
System Cache K = 539712

but the numbers in available k and system cache k are in constant motion.What are the "Commit charge" number at the bottom of Task Manager?
How much RAM do you have?broni,

Commit Charge

Total = 829144
Limit = 3745960
Peak = 949468
PF Usage = 792MB

2.79GHz, 2.99GB RAM
PAESince you have 3GB of RAM, your VM (min and max) should be set to approx. 4.5GBbroni,

the Windows - VM Minimum Too Low pop up just came back on

will you please tell me "how" to set the VM to the parameters that you suggested ?

i'll re-boot in the meantime - that will temporarily HOLD off the pop up.

thank you for taking the time to help me and all the other PEOPLE with "problems" ! Here: http://www.theeldergeek.com/physically_setting_the_page_file_size.htm
Select "Custom size".
Set initial, and max number to 4500MB.
Click "Set" button, then OK.
Restart computer.dear broni,

thank you for your response and tip !You're welcome
No more messages?dear broni,

not right now...

thank you for all your help ! Cool

I can't find my AJP 3100C CMOS BATTERY. I've popped out the key BOARD and checked under all the removable COVERS that I can find. Help please.

Sid

Hi. ive just recieved a desktop pc from my FRIEND and first time booting up showed the "DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER" error. Not knowing MUCH about computers i opend the casing and gave the internals a good clean. The error message went straight away and normally booted but the loading screen logo was xp but the desktop was vista which i just forgot about thinking it wouldnt matter. but when the computer got to desktop NOTHING would work. ive tried usb keyboards usb mouses the keyboards and mouses what could be plugged into the motherboard green and purple slots (sorry i dont know much about computers) front usb ports back usbports nothing works. ive also noticed the MONITOR cable has to be plugged into the grapics card as the motherboard monitor slot doesnt work. any ideas?

not much i can tell you but it might help:
amd processor
512mb ram
120gb kingston hdd
unknown name graphics card but its 128mb
dvd drive

Help would be very appreciated!This is going to sound like a really crappy question, please don't be offended.

Did the PC work before your friend gave it to you?Give it backit SOUNDS like the motherboard is fried.

Can ANYONE tell me how to fix Socket error 11004 incredimail is not CONNECTING to isp email server?Sorry, no advice here other than rechecking all your settings for your ISP protocols.Socket error 11004 - VALID NAME, no data record of requested type.

Host name resolution may have failed, have you tried entering your servers IP?have you tried pinging the ISP email server? For example if I were to ping my ISP email server I would type this at a command prompt:

ping pop.mail.yahoo.com (incoming email)

OR


ping smtp.mail.yahoo.com (out going email)



If you get a reply back then you've at least determined that your computer is making a connection to the server, and the PROBLEM is with the application your are using. If you get a "time out" or something like that....Then that means the problem is with your Operating System or Physical network configuration, somewhere...and possibly a temporary problem with the server...none of your doing

Hello there guys, i'll make the question quick and painless, secondly, sorry if this question has been asked many times and I DIDNT spot it, jsut didnt have the time to go through all the threads >.<, anyway, ill get right to it.

My basic problem is, I can't seem to be able to boot up my Self Built system by pressing the On/OFF buttons, reset, nothing. After reading the motherboard's manual, I tried removing the battery, then place it back in, connected the POWER connections and walla the system turns on and functions correctly. If I shutdown, I can't start it back up, I have to repeat the procedure.

My computer specs are:

Motherboard: Intel DX58S0 Extreme series.
CPU: Intel Core i7 2.67 GHz (not overclocked)
Memory: 3x2GB Corsair DDR3 XMS3 1600hmz (1.65V)
Video Card: EVGA GTX 280 1GB ddr3
PSU: Apevia Iceberg 680W ATX
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V8 i7 180W

My first assumption was that my PSU wasnt enough to power it up (and if it isnt, let me know), but when it started up after reseating the battery, made me wonder if perhaps I was doing SOMETHING WRONG with the BIOS or if the motherboard may be defective. I'm not too sure about how to go about configuring the BIOS nor JUMPER procedure.

I build the PC myself, there's sufficient cooling, especially for my processor, my only problem is this. Im positive Ic onnected the front panel connections correctly but, well if anyone can guide me the correct direction for this.

Yeah, it sounds LIKE your mouse BIT the dust. FORTUNATELY they are INEXPENSIVE.

I know, but they look good when they are shadow boxed properly.They look even better autographed!

For example, some of mine are signed by Rey Johnson!

I have others signed by John Lynott, Don Cronquist, Bob Schneider and Lou STEVENS! But, I think the Cronquist one is a FAKE. Oh well.Wicked. I'm turning green(with envy, not motion sickness).

Of course I'm not after value, I just like it as art. But autographed, man, if I could find one that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg...

Hey, what's your address, I'll send it to you with a SHARPY. Examples:

That was a GREAT demonstration last night! -Rey Johnson

I NEVER thought it would fit, but you proved me wrong! - John Lynott


I haven't seen it get that big before - Don Cronquist


And to think I've been using my floppy all this time! -Lou Stevens



they are, of course, discussing my demonstration of installing a large hard disk into an older PC.Uh huh, so Long John Silver signed one too eh?I thought we were talking about hard disks?

I have a Long john Silver signed Dead parrot.Quote from: BC_Programmer on July 01, 2009, 09:08:14 PM

I thought we were talking about hard disks?

I have a Long john Silver signed Dead parrot.

The 720 Mg has Joe Walsh's autograph on it ....
Who's he ? ?

If I set the max at 3GB where should I set the minimum. I was thinking around 1024MB. Would you agree?Or just set it to a fixed size, that will reduce page file fragmentation.Do you set the INITIAL or max to a fixed size? I would have to ASSUME the max size. Should I leave the initial size blank? Oh, sorry man, I missed typing in a whole sentence

Set both the min and the max to the same size.I set both to 3GB and it LOOKS fine. I will have to USE the computer a little bit more to see if I notice a difference. It is my wife's computer, I don't use it that much. I thank everyone for their INPUT. I will let get back to everyone on how things turn out.I hope it works for you.

Hello

I am new to this forum. I am Running a P4 system 1.7mhz with XP Pro SP2. Motherboard is a ASUS PV4P-MX. I just dragged this old system out of the basement when my other machine died and rebuilt it. It is used a bit for gaming but mostly for SURFING and email to do with the WW2 WARPLANE restoration group I belong to. I need to upgrade from the 512mgs of ram that is currently installed. The board will support up to 2GB of PC2100/1600 unbuffered Non ecc DDR dimms.
My question is simple. Can I use PC 2700 or PC 3200 instead? The main reason I am asking is because I can get the 2700 and 3200 cheaper. Also the ecc and non ecc. What difference does that make? Is it crucial that I use the right ram. I had some one tell me that I could use the other ram and that it WOULD just run at the bus speed of the board. Is this true?

Thanks for any help and advice you guys pass along.Some memory will 'step down' to make it backwards compatible. Check with where you buy it, there are different factors involved in this. You MUST get non ECC(Error Checking and Correcting) or you will be unable to start the computer. When in doubt though, only buy the correct memory for the mother board.Crucial's website has a good download that you can scan your system with, it will tell you what is compatible with your system. I'm sure that it is not 100% but it is a good place to start. It is also completely biased. they will show you all kind of crucial ram to fit your machine.

http://www.crucial.com/Good catch, thanks Smitty, that helps too. Quote from: Quantos on June 30, 2009, 08:20:14 PM

Some memory will 'step down' to make it backwards compatible. Check with where you buy it, there are different factors involved in this. You MUST get non ECC(Error Checking and Correcting) or you will be unable to start the computer. When in doubt though, only buy the correct memory for the mother board.

This is true, however, 99.9% of memory will be 'down steppable' DDR RAM contains timing information for 200 (pc1600), 266 (pc2100) , 333 (pc2700) , 400MHz (pc3200).

So as long as you buy Non-ECC DDR

ECC is 'Error Correction Code' which is only mainly supported by servers.

I found a manual with seemingly excellent directions, and it looks very straight forward.

http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01035657.pdfThanks folks.

I'll check the manual for the QUICK release, that would friggin help alot, and tape or a small cap / cup etc etc is the WAY to go. I can't afford to LOSE anymore screws. lolI hope it works out for you.

I can relate, I lost all my MARBLES in grade 5 Nice find Quantos...Quote

Nice find Quantos...

If that had been true it would only show me two kinds. ATX, 500 watt at best. Whats the difference? It just needs to be 20 + 4. http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=58&name=Power-Supplies LEFT in the nav bar were it says type.2 PAGES. I can summarize:

"do this"

"Don't wanna"

"do this"

"to much effort"

"do this"

"Don't think it'll WORK"

...

honestly, there are more types of bus connectors then power supply form factors; would you get all in a puff because you don't think a computer store has, say, AGP cards?

No; for the most part they all do.


Quote from: squall_01 on July 02, 2009, 05:29:03 PM

If that had been true it would only show me two kinds. ATX, 500 watt at best. Whats the difference? It just needs to be 20 + 4. http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=58&name=Power-Supplies Left in the nav bar were it says type.

Well, to all of us, if you SAY NEW HD, it means BRAND NEW HD, not new used HD.Quote from: Broni on June 24, 2009, 06:34:08 PM

Well, to all of us, if you say NEW HD, it means BRAND NEW HD, not new used HD.

?

i format the last HDD where the sound showed up for the first time.


i change the last HDD with a new (the sound appears again)

Your post #5:

In any case, any known brand will do.
patio has his favorite brand

In any case, any known brand will do.

I recently reinstalled windows, and EVER since I cant get this working. Basically I have two sound cards, an M-audio which connects to my HEADPHONES, and ati graphics card which outputs sound to my receiver through hdmi. Before I installed windows when I switched to the INPUT on my receiver for hdmi audio, my computer would default to the ati as the sound device. And when I did not have the input on my receiver selected, it defaulted to my m-audio card. This worked perfect.

But now since installing windows i have to manually change the sound device. This may not sound LIKE a big deal, but I have others at my house that use the computer and listen to music, who are not computer literate. Basically is there anyone that can help me so that when I select the hdmi input on my receiver, my pc defaults the ati audio output again? ANd when I dont have the hdmi input selected on my receiver for the ati hdmi audio, it defaults back to my m-audio revolution.

I dont know how it just worked great before, and now i have to change sound DEVICES manually and its driving me crazy.Have you tried going to the "Control Panel", "Sound and Audio Devices", the "Audio" tab, and changing the default device from there?

Hi guys,

I have a DELL Vostro 1500. I used to have trouble with the screen as the backlight would just shut down when I tried to increase the brightness. I got it repaired and the guy told me they had to change some Voltage Regulator somewhere in it. I only realised later that after the repair I couldnt vary the screen brightness at all. Through the keys on the keyboard and even in the setup when I reboot. The brightness meter moves around when I change it but the screen doesnt change. Also Ive left the country where I got it fixed and I have no way to get the Laptop back to that guy. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thx!

Dell Vostro 1500, Windows Vista 32-bit SP2, Intel Centrino Duo 1.86ghz, 160GB HDD, 256MB Nvidia 8600M GT, 3GB ramThe circuit was likely replaced, so there is no controls. He likely found a regulator that would sustain the load and voltage required and soldered a tap off of the existing power. By doing so would eliminate all CONTROL of brightness and make it a constant brightness as you describe.

Only way to fix this would be to undo the rerouted circuitry if possible to do so without damaging the display or laptop further.Thanks Dave. I will try and find a TECHNICIAN to see if he can do that for me. The thing is it doesnt really bother me that MUCH, but when i go on battery power it reduces the battery DURATION adn battery life. My battery went from a duration of 2 hours to 5 min in 8 months time. And i dont want to buy a new battery if its going to destroy that one as well. Thanks for your help! Yah I can see the frustration in the lack of mobility without an outlet handy. You can also try to conserve power in power options by telling the hard drive to spin down when not active etc, and some NEWER laptops have an energy star adjustable stepping feature to underclock the cpu when idle to conserve electricity in the bios configuration.

hello there ,
you can try to change in dell quickset ? did you try that ?

if dell quickset showing full but still have same problem. you know what to do ?
go to dell bios (press f2 ) video`s i think put bright max.

if still have problem let me know

thank you

Hey,
I can't tell if it is a driver problem but maybe you can point me in the right direction.
I have a Fujitsu Lifebook s6231 Laptop and a few months ago the computer WOULD take 20 minutes to boot. The DVD drive has a quick-release and one day I found that the computer would boot fine if the DVD drive was disconnected from the computer. I figured replace the drive and all will be well.
My old drive was a UJ-830B (a slim drive) and I tried replacing it with a UJ-831B. When it came in the mail the drives looked identical, just move the harness and install!
The drive installed perfectly! sooooo easy, the driver loaded right from the drive and everything. I was playing dvds within minutes! but........
The next time I turned the computer on the drive didn't show in "My Computer" or even the device manager. I did a lot of reading and found that it wouldn't be compatible if it wasn't recognized in the bios so I checked that. No cd rom in the bios!!!!
It worked though, so I was confused. Remembering my old problem I started the computer without the drive connected. Then after Windows completely loaded I connected the DVD rom again. IT WAS THERE!
Confused, I called the company who sold me the drive, he had never heard of my problem. He asked what the drive firmware was, it is 1.00 and so he asked me to send it back and he would replace it with one that had newer firmware. I did
Same problem with now the UJ-840. If I want to use the DVD drive I need to wait until Windows XP boots completely and then CONNECT the drive. BIOS still doesn't recognise the drive, I am sooo confused.
I have looked for firmware updates for my Fujitsu s6231 Laptop and found no NEW updates.
Are there any suggestions you might have? Any forums I might have better luck asking? Is it a driver or firmware issue?
OH! one last thing
the old drive UJ-831B still WORKS!!. I used it to reinstall windows during all of this! The drive is just really old, makes a LOT of noise and makes my computer take forever to boot.
I appreciate any advice!I would suggest backing up all of your documents and files, then reload the OS fresh.
Then try the new drive, it won't solve the bios issue, but it may allow it to boot with the drive connected.

The problem actually sounds like bios, have you tried updating the bios?Sadly yes, when this happened I reinstalled the operating system with the original drive. When it didn't work after I installed XP again I tried replacing the drive again (the seller said maybe the firmware on the drive and replaced the dvd writer for FREE ^^)
The BIOS is Phoenix and I tried updating that too, it said I have the same version =S

THANKS FOR THE QUICK REPLY!

I THOUGHT maybe is a Slave/Master drive issue, but... how would you check that on a laptop drive? (Windows loads it on primary installation. But after restart BIOS doesn't and then in turn Windows doesn't load it after already installed)It may be wrong on your optical drive, but the hard disk should be fine.You should make sure the IDE and the Molex connections are tight. Also, check if the jumper is correct.There shouldn't be any Molex connections, he says it's a Lifebook.

I wanted to clean out my laptop to give to my brother, I put in the windows operating SYSTEM install disc and after it loaded all the NECESSARY files, and drivers It gave me the options to "Install windows", "Repair an existing installation", or to "quite without installing". I tried over and over multiple timesto install it,but it kept saying "No available drives, make sure the drives are powered on and WORKING." (which the definitely were) but it still refused to work (I have done this a million times with all different types of computers and never had this problem.) So then i went old school and brought out the DOS bootable disc.I used it to manually format the pc's hard drive. After formatting and creating a new partition i tried the installation of window once again only for it to tell me there were no hard drives detected.( Is there any solution to this part?) But then I gave up on that Hdd (and keep in mind this hard drive came with the system and worked perfectly.) Then I took a spare hdd that also had no problems thinking i could just use that instead. (This one was installed correctly) Then i turned on the system but had no luck. This time my bad luck was a little different. It didn't even let the cd installation to boot. As soon as i put the power on a message came up it said "Smart failure predicted on hard disk 2 WARNING: Immediately back-up your data and replace your hard disk drive. A failure MAY be imminent. Press f1 to continue." I tapped the f1 key multiple times then pressed every button on the keyboard. NO LUCK. (is there a solution to this part) If anybody has any answers on this it would help. NOTE: I can use either hdd so if there is an EASIER solution to fixing one problem opposed to the other thats the one ill chose.hello there ,
its look like your pc have sata controller. which pc are you using ?
which windows are you installing?i actully got the system to work but unfortunatley i had to resort to vista it was the only os that would work. Thanks anyway!

My computer started freezing one day and disconnecting from the internet, I reformatted but it is still doing it, so I'm guessing something in the computer is done for. I can boot up and get to the main screen but after about 5 minutes it freezes every time and there is nothing I can do but restart. I can last 5 minutes on the internet before it freezes. Is it the hard drive?I'd check the Ram....run memtest86 on it

http://www.memtest86.com/memtest86-3.5.iso.zip

Download that and burn that to a CD, then boot CD from troubled computer. If memory problems it will show.

Also make sure you have latest virus definitions and scan the systen if you can...try to do quick scan.

Is this a desktop or a laptop computer and what CPU does it have?

I will try that.

It's a desktop, I'm not sure what CPU it has.This could be a housekeeping issue(dust) ..... overheating will cause these SYMPTOMS as will a malware infection...When you reformatted did you do a complete wipe of the harddrive? ..... also ensure your heatsink is flush to the motherboard, all around, make sure its flush, no gaps....Download Speedfan and confirm your TEMPERATURES are normal.Sorry, its an AMD Athlon.

When I reformatted I LOST everything and installed windows again, so I think I did a complete wipe of it. It is possible its dust.Any error messages when it freezes?nope, it just freezes randomly and I do the ctrl alt del and nothing pops up so I have to restart every time it freezes. Usually I can still move the mouse, 1 or 2 TIMES the mouse froze too.Speedfan?next time it HAPPENS, go into event viewer, no error might pop up, but an event will usually be logged in there, once you have this event ID: xxxx (unknowns) then reply here with it and we will be able to work from there, however I am strongly with an above user who said that it is the RAM.It also has been restarting itself randomly. sounds like a RAM error.Seems to be RAM has been crashed.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer Services Orlando - Computer Repair Orlando - Computer Maintenance Orlando - Virus Removal
Orlando
Quote

Download Speedfan and confirm your temperatures are normal.

My companey USES OUTLOOK web ACCESS for our e-mail CLIENT. How can i make remember my username and password so i don't have too keep TYPING it in over and over again?

I have installed a Western DIGITAL 1TB SATA Hard Drive. My motherboard only supports ATA as standard so I went out and purchased the Rosewill RC209 SATA Card so I can have the capability to run the SATA drive. The problem is the hard drive isnt being detected and I think it has to do with the SATA Card. The hard drive isnt detected by the BIOS, or anything else. I have tried running the Windows XP installation but it says there is no volume present. I have tried changing the boot sequence in the BIOS without success. I think part of the problem is I cant install drivers for the SATA card because I cant run floppy drives on my system. I want to be able to install an OS on the 1TB Sata drive and remove my old IDE drive. The problem is once I remove my old IDE drive I no longer can boot the system. It just freezes up. Im really stuck. Worst comes to worst I may just need to purchase a floppy drive and run drivers from the floppy disk that came with my Rosewill RC209 SATA Card. I just hope it doesnt come down to that. I also need to know one more thing. The SATA card I purchased can go up to 1.5GB/S. The 1TB WD Drive I purchased runs at 3.0GB/S. Will the drive just run at the highest speed supported by the SATA card or do I need to ADJUST jumper settings on the SATA drive( thought it wasnt necessary for SATA). Thanx for all your help!!!!MetalHeavyFreak6,Right up front i wish to claim a relatively low knowledge level re SATA issues. However i did have a similar situation with a SATA optical drive recently and as a result have learned a few things which might assist you. Sata unlike IDE devices only work on a single access cable.So there cannot be 2 or more on the same cable. The fact that the card you purchased will only process at approximately half the speed of your SATA device could be problematic. In the best case scenario you will lose half the speed of your drive as it will operate at the speed of the card. Worst case scenario it won't work at all. On that ISSUE i would call or email the card manufacturer and ask them what would be the result of the pairing of the 2 devices. On the absence of the ability to install drivers from a floppy: very inexpensive EXTERNAL USB connectable floppy drives are available. Alternatively if the data on the floppy that came with the card will allow you could transfer via another COMPUTER with a floppy drive the content of the floppy to a flash drive and use your flash drive usb port to install the drivers. I would personally want to check the issue of the different speeds with the manufacturer before putting out any new money. Hope this helps you,truenorth

You know how you scroll up and down a page on the right SIDE of the screen? Well, all of a sudden any time I open up a screen, whether it be internet explorer or something else, it will scroll all the WAY to the bottom of the page by itself and I can't move the page up! What is going on???You either have a key stuck or your mouse scroll button is broken. How is your down arrow key?I had a similar issue a while ago that never did resolve. It was on an Emachine that had been working fine for 5 years. I had a Logitek trackball on it and all of a sudden when trying to left click and then scroll down, it would refresh the entire page one or TWO lines at a time AUTO scrolling top to bottom.

Anybody have any ideas for future reference?Quote from: Gizmologist on July 03, 2009, 02:54:58 PM

I had a similar issue a while ago that never did resolve. It was on an Emachine that had been working fine for 5 years. I had a Logitek trackball on it and all of a sudden when trying to left click and then scroll down, it would refresh the entire page one or two lines at a time auto scrolling top to bottom.
Anybody have any ideas for future reference?

Hi everyone,

My friend has burned several DVD discs full of vids for me on his Vista machine using the Vista burning tool/software.

When I try and access the DVD on my XP machine the disc is showing as 'CD Drive' in My Computer and shows 0 Bytes Free Space and 0 Bytes Total Space. He is 100% certain he burned the videos onto them though. And the strange thing is that a COUPLE of the discs are working ok in my machine and play the videos.

Does anyone have any idea why this is happening and how I could access the videos on the DVDS that are showing as having no data on them?

Thanks
paveyard,Welcome to the Ch forums. 1st question do the ones that don't play on your computer play on the one that created them?A possibility is that your friend did not finalize the disc before giving them to you. ALSO could be a problem of what the creator's DVD was capable of burning to as to disc type versus what your drive is capable of reading. more info is required. truenorthI'm not sure if they will play on the computer that created them...I won't be seeing the guy who burned them for a while so unfortunately I can't check either.

I just tried it on a Vista machine though instead of my XP machine and it wouldn't read some of them and others showed as 0 Bytes Free and 0 Bytes Total.

As far as I know the burn speed was 8x and my drive has read discs burned at 8x before so I don't think that's where the problem lies.

If he didn't finalise the disc, could that explain why nothing is showing on My Computer? Is there a way to finalise the discs?
paveyhard, YES disks that have NOT been finalized can be finalized.However they MUST be finalized with the software burning program that created them.I am not certain that they may also have to be done on the same machine that created them. No it is not the disk burning speed that i was referring to with the compatibility observation it was the following: The burner used to burn the originals may have been capable of burning both DVD+ And DVD- blank disks and let US say he chose to use a DVD- disk but your player may only be able to read DVD+ disks. Then you would not be able to access the burned data. The fact that you are seeing that there are "zero bytes free and zero bytes total" indicates that your player is seeing unusable disks insofar as reading or writing options. You have indicated that you can play "some" of the disks your friend created for you and not others. It needs to be determined what the difference in the disks are,the difference in the burning process (if any) was,the difference in the software program used to burn the disks was (if any). It is a bit premature until you find out what the answers to the above questions are but what is the program(s) that you are trying to use to play these disks?truenorth he burned them using the standard drag-and-drop system in Vista - do you know how I can finalise the discs through this?

The disc is DVD-R and my machine reads DVD-Rs fine normally.

I'm trying to view the files through My Computer. Is there another way to view/play the files other than on My Computer? File>Open>D:/ on WMP doesn't show the files either...

I have a Diamond ATI 4870 video card and an XFX ATI 4870 video card, both with 1 GB of ram and I am having a terrible time Crossfiring them. The minimun wattage to do this, according to the manufacturers, is 600 and I have a 750 watt PSU. I plugged them both into the correct slots with the proper power cables and connected the TWO Crossfire strips. I downloaded a patch from XFX and upgraded the drivers. I have tested the PSU by unhooking my extra HD and DVD drive. I enabled Crossfire in the Catalyst Control Panel. I tried running each one alone and that was fine. I tried reversing the placement of each on the motherboard, which changed nothing.

Ok, when I play my game (Age of Conan Online) and it runs slower then with one video card and there is a constant flicker on the screen. So something isnt RIGHT. Anyone have this problem and corrected it or know what might be going on?

If it helps, here are the specs of the computer I am talking about:
Win Vista Home Premium...ASUS P5Q Deluxe Mobo...8 GB of 4-4-4-12 DDR2 Ram...Intel Core2 Duo E8400 CPU...one DVD writer...2 HDs (150GB and 500GB)...3 x 120mm fans. What about some patches or updates from Diamond?actually, you should download the updates from:

http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/radeonaiw_vista32.aspx?type=2.4.1&product=2.4.1.3.36.3.2&lang=English&rev=9.6&ostype=Windows%20Vista%20-%2032-Bit%20Edition

It may help with the crossfire issue, it might not.Quote

Intel Core2 Duo E8400 CPU

Well, cuz AMD own ATI and they have drivers. However, like I said, I already got the latest drivers, so that wont help. But I am gonna contact Diamond and see what they have for patches

Doesn't matter who owns who ...drivers should only come from the OEM source.

It is hard enough just trying to find the right site.

Hello guys,

I have a problem with my nvidia 8800 gt 512 MB (G92 65 nm). It idles at 69-71. Load: 83-85.
Stock cooler. It came with a Dell vostro 410. (30% fan speed)

I do not want to buy an aftermarket cooler.

Do I have to worry that it will be dead soon? Dell said temperature was fine and it could get up to 110 degrees.

Thanks.Yes, you have nothing to worry about with that. If you really want just throw some extra fans into the case, but it's not necessary.Those temperatures are OK, but they are a little on the high side.
Check the card for dust, the small coolers on graphics cards can easily get clogged up.
Also, you're usually able to control the fan speed, when I was using my STANDARD cooler on my 8800GT I found that 50% fan speed improved the temperatures vastly and wasn't audible over my other fans. Use a PROGRAM called Rivatuner for this.Even my Inspiron 530 has high idle temperature. That's because Dell CHOSE the cheapest PSU and fans. If your PC is not in warranty, get more powerful fans.

For a video, see http://neelwebs.izfree.com/neellab/art.php?file=art1 or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoOL2LcRJ4o if you prefer YouTube

Fortunately those aren't available anymore, because that's just strange.yes which is why they were probably so inexpensive at the time. I had a devil of a time TRYING to get them to WORK--i THINK it was one of my earliest posts for help on the CH forums. Finally talked to a company in Australia ( a very long way from where i am)--they had the same name--and they made the pin suggestion change to "CABLE select"-which got them WORKING. I wonder how our O/P is making out ? Thanks for the input. truenorth

I have a PC that wont get past POST.

Turn on, beeps once, all three lights on keyboard flash once
1 Sec later the keyboard will no longer work
If i push 'Delete' fast enough i SEE the following (cant reliably get into BIOS either, did Delete->F8 fast enough once but cant since)

-----------------------------------
American Megatrends (logo)

ENTERING setup...
Press F8 for BBS Popup
PC-3800 duel CHANNEL asymmetric
Checking NV RAM..
Initializing USB Controllers ..
----------------------------------

Just sits at that screen forever. I tried unplug the HDD and the CD ROM but no diff. I will try cycling out the RAM tomorrow and update but i have a feeling it wont be the problem. Any advice?Could you give us some more details.
The specs would be nice.
Have the PC ever worked? If yes, did anything happen around the time it stopped working?

Quote from: badomen6969 on July 05, 2009, 04:52:40 AM

Turn on, beeps once, all three lights on keyboard flash once

Our HP Laserjet 4L will only print many pages of one-line gibberish when we try to print to it.

It works fine when connected via parallel-USB cable to our old computer USING XP Professional 32-bit OS, but when we install it to our new computer with Vista Home Premium, 64-bit (same cable) it only prints gibberish. It will self-print a test page with no problems.

I don't know if this is connected or not, but when installing the printer we have occasionally had trouble getting the computer to recognize the device -- we get an "unknown device" error. Usually if we wiggle the cord or unplug it and replug it, it works and installs the driver. We then manually install the printer using the "virtual USB port". I also noticed today that sometimes the printer would show "ready", then it would show "offline", during which times the driver would not show up in device manager. Again, wiggling the cord or unplugging and replugging changed it back to "ready".

All of our other USB devices WORK fine on this computer, and I have TRIED plugging one of them into the port we have been working with and they still work -- it's not the port, the printer, or the cable. Vista comes with the drivers installed, and HP has not made them available anywhere else.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you very much!Is the printer Vista compatible? Driver installed?Yes and yes.

HP's website says: "5 - Yes. Your product is supported. Drivers for HP printers are included with the Microsoft Windows Vista Operating System. HP has a Windows Vista driver solution available for your product. This driver will enable your product's basic functions to work. HP is committed to providing the best experience for HP products in the Windows Vista operating environment. You can conveniently find this driver in your Windows Vista operating system, today. At this time the driver will only be available on the Windows Vista operating system through the “ADD a Printer" wizard. HP does not plan on placing this legacy driver on www.hp.com.
NOTE: If your printer currently uses either a PCL5, PCL6 or PostScript XP driver you may download the current XP driver from HP to provide printing FUNCTIONALITY. Windows Vista printing is very similar to Windows XP and most print drivers supported in the XP environment for LaserJet printers may also work in the Windows Vista operating system."

I tried downloading the current XP driver, but they only have the 32-bit driver available for download -- the 64-bit driver comes with the 64-bit version of XP, which I don't have. Vista will not allow me to install and use the XP 32-bit driver -- when I click on the file it says there is no compatible driver found.

I considered downloading the driver from somewhere else and install it, but HP has not put it out anywhere else so that doesn't seem to be an option.

In searching for an answer to this I have seen many people who had difficulties with Vista and the 4L and finally got them working, so the printer must be compatible. So far, their problems have been slightly different than mine, and their solutions have not changed my one-line of gibberish, junk, or apparently random characters.Did you install from CD?No, the driver came pre-installed with Vista. There is no CD from which to install. Our Vista re-installation CD says right on it, "Not for reinstallation of drivers".I recommend contacting HP customer support. They should be able to send you the driver for it, if they want you to buy your next printer from them anyway.is it 4L Pro or 4L their are 2 types, try downloading and installing the driver for it.

According to type it will be either http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodNameId=15034&prodTypeId=18972&prodSeriesId=25486&swLang=8&taskId=135&swEnvOID=2093

or

the 4L Pro is

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodNameId=15040&prodTypeId=18972&prodSeriesId=25486&swLang=8&taskId=135&swEnvOID=2093This is the information from both of the links that you provided Ireland.

Quote

At this time the driver will only be available on the Windows Vista operating system through the “Add a Printer�? wizard. HP does not plan on placing this legacy driver on www.hp.com.

Hey iv been looking at this motherboard. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131292R
And this CPU.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103471
Are they compatible? I know the sockets are the same AM2+. Does MHz have anything to do with compatibility? Because the Motherboard is 2600 MHz and the CPU is 3600 MHz.
Along with these i have the following parts in my cart.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820134217
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136351
It would be much appreciated if someone could check out the parts the top two for sure if anyone has the time.
Thanks- NateYes, they will work together.
The 2600 that you are reading on the mother board is for the FSB(Front Side Bus). The socket types match and the mother board says that it will accept any of the following.
Quote

AM2+/AM2

Phenom FX / Phenom / Athlon 64 FX / Athlon 64 X2

as quantos also says

Hello All: Success at last! Went back to the WD site & did some digging(a lot of digging).... found an answer to a problem concerning Vista not initializing disks(must have been answer #252)even after the Zeroing with DATA Lifeguard.... Right Click red arrow on the drive your wanting to format and BINGO the initializing window pop's up..... Check mark that drive(if not already)& click OK.... Now you can go through the simple volume routine.... I feel LIKE I've gone through a war!..... I guess I'll take this as another learning experience.... Thank you "ALL" for your inspirational help..... Glad to hear you got it worked out...
Stop by anytime !I'll make it a point to!! Thanks AGAINI dont get the sig?

btw, glad to see you got it working

My Gateway desktop computer will not boot up and the power button slowly flashes blue. Model:DX4640-UB101A
I tried unplugging it and holding the power button for 30 seconds but still the same.Could we have some specs? Hard drive, cpu, memory. Does anything happen on the screen?320 GB Western Digital Hard drive, 4 DDR2, Intel Pentium Dual Core E2200, NVIDIA GeForce 7100Nothing shows up on the monitor. The monitor won't even recognize the computer. I tested the Monitor on another computer and it worked fine. When I push the power button with the case open the hard drive spins and the power button on the face of the tower slowly blinks blue.
Thanks for your help1) Are all the fans inside the computer working? Try reseating your Ram if the fans are working.

2) Fans not working - Try another power supply in the computer, if you don't have another one then get the one you already have, tested.Fans are not working, so I will try the power supply. Thanks CORRECTION...fans are working. I tried reseating ram and still the sameReseat all your cards, doublecheck all CONNECTIONS, then swap in another PSU.how do I "reset my cards"?Quote from: riteofpassage on June 30, 2009, 04:57:05 PM

correction...fans are working. I tried reseating ram and still the same

Normal is for a defective power system to spin fans.

how do I "reset my cards"?

Yes I am aware that this is normal, but I am trying to cut to the chase here. Obviously if his fans are dead then it could point to the psu.

I'm working on my brother's Sony VAIO laptop (model VGN-SZ120P) and per the device manager it has a Matshita UJ-842D dvd/cd drive. I just reinstalled windows XP pro and was updating all his DRIVERS when I noticed a conflict in the device manager for this. Under the properties I get the message "Windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration INFORMATION (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. (Code 19)". I've tried locating a driver for this drive online but the only place I've been able to find that claims to have it won't allow me to download it without BECOMING a member of their site. I've also gone through the Sony website and downloaded drivers from there, but nothing helps. Any suggestions?Nevermind, I found a solution by googling "Code 19"...

I have asked a friend, and my friend has told me that he has a few ideas and wants to confirm them before he gives me any updates, I will be sure to post them here, in the meantime I hope you get the problem fixed.ok luck i KNOW this has taken me a while to get to, but it very MUCH depends where it sees the wrong cpu info. if its from inside windows you could write a program patch an api or write your own driver to do it. How it would ahve done it by itself, well a virus or corrupted driver. out side of windows in the BIOS, then it would be bios drivers i guess.

that is his reply (my username is luck)maliss, I'm going to suggest that you ignore Ireland on this one.
What he is suggesting is a very bad idea.Maliss, if you read this, just let us know if you have successfully found the solution with assistance of Newegg Customer Service and any other relevant sources or whether you've found out a suitable answer yourself. Good luck

I have a LEXMARK 510 printer which has been installed into my computer and has been accepted but it will not operate and I cannot UNDERSTAND why because it was working perfectly but I have just bout a CompaQ laptop and it is Windows VISTA, can ANYONE please help me. I know nothing about computers but a friend who has knowledge has tried all she can and is now stumped.

i have a dell latitude acpi 366xt and it will not turn on, the lock lights will turn on and so will the power lights, but then it will go back off, this is when its pluged in to wall. and when its being POWERED off of a BATTERY, it will do that and turn back on in an endless loop UNTILL the battery dies. yes it was FULLY charged.
what should i do? what needs to be replaced? is there a jumper in the laptop that i can use to reset it if that will WORK?