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My computer shuts down unexpectedly when I play games or watch movies, although the games happen every time and movies sporadically. I can do everything else. I'm wondering if its my graphics card or something. ALSO WORTH noting, I recently replaced my fan.

Here are the specs for my computer:
Sony Vaio VGN-SZ220
Intel Centrino Duo
1024 MB of RAM
nVidia GeForce GO 7400

I've updated my DRIVERS and the same thing happens as well. Here are my core temp as well from Speedfan. If anyone can help, that would be great. This has been driving me nuts.

[attachment deleted by admin]Your PC seems to be overheating. Check the fans for dust and clean them out with compressed air which can be found in a can in most computer shops.

Cameron GrayIf those 60C-62C temperatures are for idle CPU, don't use the computer until the problem is solved. You MAY cause permanent damage.I just realised that you just replaced the fan. Check that the fan is connected correctly and if it was the cpu fan did you REMBER the thermal compound?

Cameron Gray

Hey again ya'll!

Ok... got an audio related question. My system is running onboard audio (VIA VT8237A/8251 High Definition Audio Controller). I have the three audio jacks on the BACK of my system (Speaker/Mic/Line In) and the two jacks on the front (Speaker/Mic). What I'd like to be able to do is connect my desktop speakers to the rear speaker JACK and connect my headset (headphones/mic) to the front jacks, leave them all connected full time, and somehow switch between the two when I need to.

Is this possible and if so how would I go about setting it up and switching between the audio jacks?

Thanks!
J.G.
oh COME on... really??? I have no idea:

The only options I see for your Azalia HDA controller is 'Auto' or 'Disabled".

1- does the rear output silence when a device is plugged into the front speaker/headphone output jack?

If so the only way I could guess would be to jumper the circuit through a DISCONNECT switch for the rear jack so that circuit can stay closed when a device is plugged into it. Then I guess you'll need a disconnect switch on front if you don't want to unplug it, but either way it will take hands on.

Hope this helps a tad. Hope you get it figured out. Hmmmm... ok, so basically there's no software that would allow me to switch between the front and rear inputs? Seems the only option is some type of external switch... well *censored*!

Thanks for the tip!

i have ordered windows 7. but i need to upgrade my ram from 512 to 1024.
the problem is i can't find my computer all sites say find manufacture,
mine is amd semperon but i can never find it why.Just open up your computer and take out your RAM cards to find out exactly what they are (ddr, ddr2, ect). Then go to the store and purchase similar cards.Or travel to Crucial.com and run the online scanner...More specifically...
http://www.crucial.com/systemscanner/
Thanks Carbon /Patio will do both,have a good one.Hi Ivan,

With Vista, 2 GB of ram is only acceptable, so I can't say that I recommend anything less than that for Win7. And, other than being an early-adopter, may I ask why you are jumping on the Win7 BANDWAGON so early in its development stage? Just wondering...

Batman9299Maybe because it's the most solid OS to come out of Redmond since Win2K......

QUOTE from: Batman9299 on July 25, 2009, 08:17:50 AM

With Vista, 2 GB of ram is only acceptable, so I can't say that I recommend anything less than that for Win7.

i have ordered windows 7. but i need to upgrade my ram from 512 to 1024.
the problem is i can't find my computer all sites say find manufacture,
mine is amd semperon but i can never find it why.

My girlfriend's AS501 SoundBar basically died (sound will work PERFECTLY when I plug the headphones into the back of the CPU, but I hear NOTHING when I plug them into the SoundBar), so I figured the best course of action was to REPLACE it. I know it snaps on to the monitor easily, but I'm having a hard time figuring out how to REMOVE it. Does anybody know how to get it off the monitor, or do I need some kind of special tool? Thanks in advance!I would check the monitor manuf.s' website for a manual...

Hi, I'm using a Toshiba Satellite a-100 laptop, on Windows XP, and have this odd problem that came out of the blue....The laptop screen has these weird black blotches on the RIGHT side, almost as if someone threw a bottle of ink at the screen, and some colored lines as well, I cant see anything past them, can only see a small part of the screen, I have a feeling I need to buy a whole new screen, but thought I would as about it here first.....

I cant even take a screen shot of it, it doesnt show up......
Any advice?
ALSO when I hook up the laptop to my TV from my S-Cord it works fine.....Sorry this picture isnt better, taken with my digital camera, but it gives the idea of what my desktop looks like.......

Looks like something heavy was placed on the laptop while it was closed...
That or it was dropped.Quote from: patio on July 14, 2009, 06:32:23 PM

Looks like something heavy was placed on the laptop while it was closed...
That or it was dropped.

My son had this computer {e machine} for about a year and has GIVEN (minus the ram which i have replaced) it to me because of the issue it's having. When you turn it on it powers up then it beeps a couple of times, doesn't boot up, then shuts off. HELP please. I have copied the specs of the pc below.
Kisses,
Tamara

Specifications
CPU : Intel® Pentium® 4 Processor 631
Hyper-Threading and Intel® EM64T Technology
(3.00GHz, 2MB L2 cache, 800MHz FSB)
Operating System : Genuine Windows Vista® Home Basic

Monitor : Includes eMachines® 17" Widescreen LCD
Chipset : Intel® 945G
Memory : 512MB DDR2 dual-channel capable (1 × 512MB), 533MHz (PC4200)
Expandable to 2GB Just installed 2 1 gb ram cards
2 DDR2 Slots (Total), 1 DDR2 Slot (Available)
Hard Drive : 160GB SATA II (7200rpm, 8MB cache)
Optical Drive : DVD±RW 16x Multiformat Dual-Layer Optical Drive
Up to 8.5GB with Dual-Layer Media
Write max: 16x DVD±R, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD+RW, 4x DVD+R DL, 40x CD-R, 24x CD-RW
Read max: 16x DVD-ROM, 40x CD-ROM
Media Reader : High-Performance 15-in-1 Digital Media Manager™
xD-Picture Card™, CompactFlash® I (CF), CompactFlash® II, Secure Digital™ (SD), Mini Secure Digital™ (Mini SD), Multi Media Card (MMC), Reduced Size MMC (RS-MMC), MMC Mobile, MMC Plus, Memory Stick (MS), Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick Pro®, Memory Stick Pro® Duo, SmartMedia, IBM Microdrive
Video : Intel® Graphics Media Accelerator 950
Up to 224MB Shared Video Memory
PCI-Express® (PCI-E x16) slot available for upgrade
Sound : 6-channel (5.1) high-definition audio
Amplified Stereo Speakers (USB-Powered)
Communications : 56K ITU v.92-ready Fax/Modem (RJ-11 port)
Intel® 10/100Mbps Ethernet LAN (RJ-45 port)
Peripherals : Premium multifunction keyboard, 2-button wheel mouse
PORTS/Other : 6 - USB 2.0 Ports (2 Front, 4 Rear)
1 - VGA
1 - Parallel port
1 - SERIAL port
2 - PS/2 ports (keyboard and mouse)
3 - audio (rear): line-in/side (stereo), front/headphone (stereo), microphone
2 - audio (front): microphone, front/headphone (stereo)
1 - RJ-45 ethernet port
1 - RJ-11 modem port
Sounds like replacing RAM caused this. You might have bad RAM chip, or have installed it improperly. Try re-seating it. Also check this link to learn more about beeps.I found 1 link for a 945 that says 3 long beeps = memory problem and 4 beeps (alternating frequency) = thermal problem. Is it "a couple of beeps" or 3 beeps?Travel to Crucial.com and ENTER the system info to see what type of RAM you should have...
All RAM is not created equal.

when i power on my laptop i get power light,hdd light (stays solid green) but no image,also tried removing hdd to see if i can get into BIOS,still no image.OK thanks for starting the new thread. It just helps us cover LOTS of different topics separately rather than jumbling them all together.
First things first can we have more info on model, hardware and software please fella.no problem mulreay,fujitsu amilo pro v2030d,blue screened about 2 month ago managed to run chkdsk and swapped cpu fan all seemed ok,then lent laptop to a friend who TOLD me laptop was hanging on 'windows is shutting down' and she was turning it off by holding the on/off button down ,only found this out when i was told of the no image on screen problem.You mentioned in the other topic that it was not the back light so can you see a grey sheen to your screen (poet and don't know it) when you power on. In other words power is getting to your screen?

Plus what is your OS please.no mr poet,the screen stays pure BLACK and the OS is XP PROHow do you know it's not a backlight problem then just out of interest?HI mulreay,when it's a backlight fault you can see the image on the screen but it is dark,the backlight lights up the screen.

thanks for your help,I'm AWAY for a week hopefully i will speak to you when i get back.

all I know is that it is a VIA mainboard, Epia mini-ITX, and something about Samuel 2.westom quit acting like a prick to this guy and quit telling him some stupid answer.He can't afford to take it anywhere or buy a multimeter and quite frankly it's not that kind of an issue. And to svscofield I'm glad that you got your pc up and running again Quote from: brett74 on July 03, 2009, 01:49:22 PM

westom quit acting like a prick

I found out that I could indeed get the dvd-rom to flip out of the way. One of you guys suggested that I make sure all of the connections from the power supply to the hdd were seated properly, which is what I did. I suspect that I might have to buy a new power supply in the next couple of months or else add on more fans: I had to keep the case open for a little bit to ensure it stayed running (it tried to quit a couple of times).

So this is my trusty little 1 gb flash drive, its all working fine. i plug it in as usual to copy some FILES. BUT i do not see it in my computer, i go to unplug it to replug and stuff, then OUCH it feels like its over 110. but thats just how it feels.

Should i be concerned? should i STOP using it?

*Nevermind*
i found out that the TIP was sliding down so it wasn't plugged in all the way, the it was just HEATING up.

SO I went to turn on my computer the other day and it started the boot process but it now hangs on the BIOS check SCREEN when it's detecting hard drives.

I thought maybe it was just a software issue, so I tried to reinstall windows from a cd, but it couldn't find the SATA HD. From there I thought maybe the HD went bad, so I tried an old backup IDE HD I had. I was able to install windows xp on this and boot up successfully. So I bought a new SATA HD and installed Vista on it and it went fine.

But I decided that I remembered why I didn't like Vista, so I tried to install XP on it instead. XP starts to install just fine, but when it reboots to continue the install, once it gets to the HD, the screen shows random characters and the old "missing NTLDR" message pops up.

I am at a loss for what the actual problem is. It could be software or hardware, but I've tried just about everything I can think of:

- reinstalled OS's
- switched HDs
- switched motherboards
- switched RAM
- reset CMOS battery
- changed SATA cables

Basically, it just seems like it hates anything that deals with a SATA HD and that the problem lies there. But why did it let me install Vista on the SATA HD but XP screwed up? It's like for every thing that seems logical there is ANOTHER point that CONTRADICTS it. I should also add that overheating has never been an issue and doesn't seem to be the problem here.

Here's my system:

ASUS P5N-EM motherboard
Intel Core2 Quad CPU 2.40 GHz
4 GB RAM
Western Digital 1 TB HD
Using on-board graphics and SOUND on motherboard

I've built and fixed my own systems for years and this one has me completely stumped. Please help if you can!
Just guessing:
drive not formatted or set to active.
or from my experience, if Vista is still loaded, it will not allow an older operating system to replace it.
Is Vista deleted from the drive?I had a similar problem on a different P5n SERIES board. If you happen to have anything attached to the IDE/PATA connectors (HDDs, CDs) the SATA driver freaks out. If that's the case, unplug all the IDE/PATA cables and the install should go smoothly and afterward, all the drives will get along. Otherwise, I wish you luck.

I have a DVD-R video disc that my friend burned for me. It plays fine on his HP Touchsmart computer (from which he burned that DVD-R) and I can play it just fine on the pioneer DV-434 DVD player I have in my room just fine.

Now, when I try playing on my computer, it won't get past the menu, and the label of the DVD, as per windows is "StorageLabs TinyUDF Volume", I expect that the DVR that my friend recorded the video from employs the StorageLabs TinyUDF Volume THING.

What's the problem?UDF is the standard DVD filesystem; it is used on DVD video disks (the kind that movies come on) and is what you get if you burn a DVD video with a burning app e.g. Nero etc. Also many DVRs use it. The StorageLabs TinyUDF library is found on embedded systems and the chips in DVD recorders.

Sounds like you have a compatibility issue. I have a Pioneer DVDRW in my PC and it won't read disks I record on my Philips DVR, but they play fine on my girlfriends Sony laptop.
However, though I have used a dvd ripper, ripped out the video and it played fine. The video from the DVD apparently is fine (although I did rip it to Mp4 format) but it's just I guess my computer's drive can't read the DVD structure of the disc with that StorageLabs TinyUDF thing.

But if I burn a DVD+R or DVD-R disc myself using my computer with DVDFlick or the windows dvd maker, provided no error in the burning and encoding process, it plays fine on my pc.

Anyhow, my computer is about 4 years old (except I have Vista installed on it now)QUOTE from: 2x3i5x on July 24, 2009, 01:51:45 PM

I guess my computer's drive can't read the DVD structure of the disc with that StorageLabs TinyUDF thing.

i just installed vista buisness 32 bit upgrading from windows xp 32 bit. i had INTERNET after the instalation was complete. but as i was installing my motherboard drivers (Foxcon) the internet went out. after the driver instilaion was complete it ASKED me if i wanted to install nvidias NFORCE network controller r. after i got somewhat through the setup it said that my divers were not on the system. now the internet is not working at all. windows detects it but i am unable to do anything about it. i have TRIED installing the chipset drivers from theinternet and the disc that came with my motherbord and nothing is working.what motherboard model?Quote from: computeruler on July 24, 2009, 05:28:50 PM

what motherboard model?

Well I gotta go so just go to the foxxconn site and look for the drivers

I don't think iNtel's ship with thermal paste applied....
At least the last DOZEN or so i purchased didn't....Quote from: patio on July 08, 2009, 05:35:44 AM

I don't think iNtel's ship with thermal paste applied....
At least the last dozen or so i purchased didn't....

The lowest thermal resistance is CPU direct to heatsink. Properly machined heatsink transfer most heat through that ‘two medium’ interface. A tiny amount of thermal compound will fill fewer holes. The ‘CPU to air pocket to heatsink’ (a three medium interface) has higher thermal resistance - is more like an insulator. If that air pocket has thermal compound, it is more conductive - but no where near as conductive as CPU to heatsink. Still is a ‘three medium’ interface.

Thermal compound causes a single digit temperature reduction if using properly machined heatsinks. Most of the heat transfers directly ‘CPU to heatsink’. And most heat transfers only in the CPU center section. A poorly machined heatsink will have many more air pockets. Therefore thermal compound causes a greater temperature reduction.

Thermal compound is not required (but usually used anyway) on better machined heatsinks. Essential to better heat transfer is very little thermal compound so that more of the heatsink makes direct contact to the CPU.

So now we should recommend NOT using Thermal Compound ? ?

heatsinks aren't machined as precisely as an optical telescope lens... and if they were they would be prohibitively expensive.

I recently purchased a Dell Studio XPS 435MT with a 300+ watt power supply, which I feel is not sufficient for future upgrades. The power supply has all SATA cables for the HD, DVD reader & DVD ROM, along with an EXTRA unconnected cable marked P7. This power supply does not have a 4-pin power cable needed for the Asus Xonar DX audio card which I just purchased. What replacement power supplies do you recommend which have a 4-pin power cable long enough to REACH to the other side of the case where the PCIe audio card will be installed. My emphasis is on quality sound and I will be converting my vinyl LP collection to CDs & MP3 files.corndale, While of course it is your prerogative to solve your problem anyway you chose.However have you ever considered SIMPLY purchasing a SATA to ide power cable to connect to your existing SATA power supply cable (which you seem to have an abundance of)? There are also SATA to IDE data cables available as well (even some that combine data and power i believe). I had to do this recently and the cost was extremely inexpensive. Here is but one of many sources available for that cable. http://www.startech.com/product/itemlist.aspx?product_desc=sata+to+ide+power+cable&search.x=66&search.y=7
truenorthThanks truenorth. This is certainly an inexpensive fix for my SITUATION. I will take a close look at the free cable and then search for a 4-pin floppy cable adapter to fit it.

I have a CASE that has individual leads instead of plastic 2 pin connectors. I need help figuring out what colors go together so I can finish this build. Red, Orange, Yellow, White, Blue, Green. Any thoughts???Only thoughts as applies to my Gigabyte ep45 ud3r:
yellow = message LED
red = power
orange = speaker
blue = hard drive activity
green = reset
purple = not used



BUt I would look at the manual dowloadable from your mianboard supplier. Are the case connections obvious or hidden by routing?the 6 WIRES go to a small circuit board which houses the power switch. I would think that the wires would have to be PAIRED so that a positive and a negative are present. I just don't know which goes with which. The Asus A8V manual says blue is the reset. yellow is the power switch. red is the HD activity LIGHT lead. OK 3 down. that leaves green, white and orange. how do they pair up with red, yellow, blue?what make/model case?it's an old Compaq. I bought it as a starter system for the kids. now I want to upgrade the mobo. I have everything connected except these 6 wires.Look for a small triangle embedded on the wire lead connectors to position the motherboard connector pins correctly...Look for pin1 to be labeled on the motherboard as a small "1" embedded either to the left or right of the group of pins....Guessing is OK when connecting a wire to a connection......if it doesn't work no harm is done.......You can also get this info from the motherboard documentation.Quote from: krush68 on July 16, 2009, 07:56:05 PM

OK 3 down. that leaves green, white and orange. how do they pair up with red, yellow, blue?

how do i do a system restore from dos without discs or being able to mark the hard drive as last known ...Not sure what it is you are attempting...
I am sure however more info is needed.I am trying to reformatt a computer but i DONT have any discs, the computer has a VIRUS so I wanted to know a dos comand that will do a system restore (bring computert back to the way it was when bought) I need to be sure windows vista will be intact. the comand i do have is rstrui.exe but that needs a last known something on hard drive , the computer was never BACKED up. HELP!1st of all you are confusing 2 different functions...
System Restore is built into Windows and only affects System files...nothing more.

So in the case of a nasty infection this feature will do little or no good.

A Factory Restore is what you are referring to and to do so you need the CD's that shipped with the machine...no DOS COMMAND will do this.

The only exception here is if it's a laptop and/or it shipped with a hidden restore partition....if not you will need Windows CD's to do this.ok soooo to do a system restore hoping it will help cant hurt can i do this through dos?You don't have DOS...you have a Command Prompt...

Try Here...As patio said, system restore WILL NOT cure any infection.

I'll go look for the MemTest bootCD, but I don't think using a blow dryer will be necessary. The memory's always hot, even when computer's idle.

what class was your Op-Amp?

Class A. Audio frequency.

westom, what field of engineering are you in?

sound engineering

This solves my problem only partially. Hopefully, I'll get a memory that works, and hopefully it won't break down within a year and 2 months.

Hopefully, I'll get a memory that works, and hopefully it won't break down within a year and 2 months.

Just as likely to fail in two months is every other semiconductor inside that computer. Solution is to find it with simple diagnostics. That diagnostics even defines which memory contact and motherboard connector pin is involved in the failure. Easier is to use heat; to discover which side of that connector is defective.

printer not used for a couple of days after printing a LETTER the on/off light was on as was the 'busy' light was flashing for those days. When I proceeded with another task the printer did not print - first, I pushed the busy button expecting the printer to print or clear the last assignment but nothing happened so I pressed the on/off button and both lights went dim and the 'busy' light quit blinking. I pulled the power plug for several minutes but no help??
ab4pgThis may or may not APPLY to your particular LEXMARK model...

Resetting a Lexmark printer

You will firstly NEED to switch off your printer. Then simultaneously press the RETURN and READY keys while switching the printer on. This will take you to the Diagnostics Mode. The display unit will show the message 'Performing self test'. Choose 'Maintenance count'. Reset the count to make it zero. Then select the RETURN key and go back Diagnostics Mode. Then you can reset the printer to go back to the normal mode.

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Reset-Your-Printer?-Troubleshooting-for-Resetting-Your-HP,-Dell,-Lexmark,-Brother-or-Samsung&id=1053659thank you karmac. I hope I can make it work
ab4pg

I have an older Compac EVO running fine except when I try to SHUT it off.

If you do a STANDARD shutdown through the start icon OR access the shutdown mode mode via Alt-Cont-Delete, the unit will power down. However it will start RIGHT back up again on its own after about about 5 seconds. Anyone have an IDEA as to why and how it can be fixed? There are no other malfunctions.

In order to keep it off, after the "Windows is Shutting Down" screen, you have to immediately depress and hold the power button in. I had this problem with a eMachine, the only way I could turn it off completely was at the powerstrip. I will be very interested in the answer to this.Check the BIOS settings >lan wake up should not be enabled>or in power managment

Actually - although I can find all my documents I cannot find any of my emails. I was using Outlook and then changed to Thunderbird which, as I remember, I imported all of my mail into. I have searched the whole drive for .MSF file extension and got nothing relevant. I have searched for .PST file extension and got nothing relevant. Mail folders are supposed to be in C:Documents and Settings[User NAME]Application Data ThunderbirdProfiles and Outlook in a similar place but there is no such file path??
I have also noticed that the drive is showing as 37.2GB (16.3 used & 20.9 free) when its a 40GB drive, does formating take up that much space?
Anyone got any suggestions why I cannot find anything from email?

Chart Courtesy of Western Digital

Are you saying the Thunderbird profile is completely missing ? ?I have not been able to find any email files for either T'bird or outlook I have searched for MBX, PST, MSF, DBX, EML files and found nothing relevant. I did not have any problem with my email previously. I have changed the file & folder option to include hidden files but it made no difference.

On my laptop (different COMPUTER) running on VISTA and I cant find any outlook files on there either. I can follow the file path as far as 'Application Data' and then 'access is denied'

I have Envision En9410e monitor at start up it blinks on and off for about a half hour then it stays on for the rest of the time ( even for 24 hrs) It never did this when I bought it about 3 years ago.I am looking for some ideas on what could be the problem. My system is Compaq Presario SR1720NX It is all the same as I bought it about 3 years ago except that I added 1 1/2 G of RAM ALSO when I start up I get a MESSAGE that says gpu not supported I'd say, the monitor is going out. To make sure, TRY it on another computer.A GOOD idea Broni but I only have 1 PC ARENT these flat screens supposed to last forever? Any hardware can fail. That's all I can say.
When it starts blinking, try to turn monitor off, and on again.
See, if it helps.

i have a p4 running windows xp pro sp3....a while ago i installed a slave drive, which ran fine for about a week. i ended up with the BSOD....thanks to the forums i added a 1g MEMORY to the motherboard.....when i BOOT, windows wont load....i no longer have the xp pro install disk, but i have the local computer store make one for me.....now i get as far as windows asking for a ASR floppy disk (for which i done have). any advise as to what i can do now? thanks.You need to set the CD drive as the primary master in the BIOS. F1 or F2 will get you into the BIOS.

Then you will need to look for what is Primary Master and Secondary Master, Make your CD/DVD drive your Primary Master and your Hard Disk your Secondary Master. This is done by using the arrow keys to navigate and to select. I hope this helps. I would not do this if you have never worked in your BIOS before. If this is the first time let the computer shop do the work.cd is set to primary with floppy set as secondary, hard drive is disabled
Set the hard drive as secondary master and set the floppy drive as secondary slave.

100c??!!!???!!!??!!!
Seriously? They can? I ALWAYS thought to keep it under 90c

Ohh and my biggest complaint about a hot GPU is it heating everything else up. My ram is right next to the GPU and the CPU. Extra fans and good airflow is still a good idea.

It's better to keep it cooler, yes ... but realistically, even if the temperature shortens the lifespan of the card by half ... would you keep a graphics card for ten years? I know some people would, but out of the people buying performance graphics cards I think they'd be the minority.

Ok, I have two QUESTIONS to ask. First off all, can someone recommend me a good INEXPENSIVE laptop cooler for a DELL XPS M140? My SECOND question is about a game, The Sims 3, I always get an error message after about 20-30 mins of gameplay saying something about ialmrnt5 not working or something and then my SCREEN looks all weird and my screen size goes down, any help on what I should do? BTW, it also does it on games that used to work perfectly fine on my comp. any help?

PS- last night I played for a couple hours straight, though, like 1 or 2 maybe.You might try replacing the ialmrnt5.dll:

ialmrnt5.dll download

I would go to the DELL website and set up an account.
Login, then using the service ID tag on your computer case, go to their
downloads page for your system and get the video drivers for your on board
video, and re-install them. Stay with Dell's drivers - not the ones from
Windows Update or other sources. I hope this helps.
ALso if this is a laptop you are playing on these usualy just have suped up onboard graphics and excelerator software. SO when it shows that you have a decent graphics card you realy have a good onboard graphics.

I had incompadability issues on my laptob. Some work some dont. Others have random crashes. Definitly try get use the latest drivers. Thats about the best you can do.

hey guys im wodering if its possibale to ADD a peltier plate in a hp compaq nx6110 to cool it down i KNOW i WOULD have make a POWER suply for the plate and i would have to costumise the case but would it be possibale

I have a laptop and desktop computer in my house.
My problem is if I switched laptop 1st, the wireless connection was made properly.
when my desktop computer switched on with cable connected to router.
My laptop will DISCONNECTED from wireless. And can't get access to the line even though i re-connect it. I need to restart my router to gain the access.

Any1 here met this before??? I need to diagnosis my router or laptop wireless device?? or just local area network setting problem?? malaizai,Your post has remained unanswered for quite a while. "plagerized solution--from Hexus" (i hope it works) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

make sure the laptop is set to use DHCP to receive network addresses - i suspect it's hard-coded to the same address to the router, hence KICKING it off the network

and "FOLLOWING on from previous post, is your DHCP SERVER set to ALLOW enough address to be allocated? Has a similar problem recently where one device kept pushing another off the network, had to set allocationg to a higher number. "
truenorth

Can you TRY again with the add-on card INSTALLED? If the computer was moved while being unplugged and plugged in it is POSSIBLE that the video card just became loose in the slot.Any bent pins on your monitor cable?...reseat your memory as well.Ill see if that works.tried it with and without the video card on the other monitor with no success. Also tried reseating memory and checked the pins on the cable.How old is the power supply?...It may be on the way out...Can you swap in a known good PSU?dont have an extra. it is 450 watt coolmax that is about 2 years old.any idea what the repeating green-red-red blinking lights mean?Well even though CoolMax is one of the better brands they can still go South...
Borrow and swap one in there just to see although i don't THINK this is the issue.
It will however eliminate that variable...shouldn't be a problem i will probably try to do it tomorrow. I might try SEARCHING some other forums for a little while to see if others have had this problem. No problem...
I'd sure like some honey BBQ chicken right about now though...honey BBQ chicken always sounds good. Yepper...

Hey guys, first time on this forum so I hope on the right board.

That said, I'm aiming to put together a RESPECTABLE gaming PC for about $1500 AUD

These are the components I was planning on getting and I was hoping to GET some opinions:
Firstly, the quality of the parts,
Is everything compatible,
Has anyone heard about or encountered problems with what I have on the list, and
Any suggestions on alternatives to any of the components listed.

Also, with respect to the PSU, I had wanted to get a Coolermaster Extreme Power+ 650 but I found some NEGATIVE reviews. I was hoping to buy it as it's about 30% cheaper than the Seasonic.

Asus M4A78-EM Mother Board
4G Kit-800(2x2G) Kingston
4G Kit-800(2x2G) Kingston
Seagate SATA 1TB Hard Drive
896M GTX 275 GIGABYTE Nvidia
AMD 940pin X2 Phenom II 550 Processor
SATA Pioneer 218 DVD drive write and burn
THERMALTAKE V9 [No Power Supply]
Seasonic M12 80+ 600W
Coolermaster 120mm
Coolermaster 120mm

MS 64 bit VISTA VHB
18.5” Acer X193HQ HDCP WS

ANy help would be greatly appreciated.

Does ram ever get cheaper? (like in ONLINE stores)

what's over clocking mean?

and what all is possible to upgrade on a laptop, and what UPGRADES give you the most performance?RAM is at it's cheapest levels right now in the last 8 years...

Overclocking is changing the multiplier and or VOLTAGES to the CPU for a performance gain.

Best and only upgrades for a laptop is adding more RAM...i would NOT recommend Overclocking a laptop.Depending on the laptop it can be relatively easy to swap out the hard drive as well. Swapping out a conventional hard drive for a good SSD can make a real difference in startup, LOAD times and general responsiveness. But good SSDs are still very expensive and have some issues of their own.I wouldn't be recommending SSD HDD's just yet as an upgrade...they have a ways to go still.why do you not recommend over clocking a laptop?Heat Kills...
They are not designed for it.oh, ok, THANKS!Sure thing...
Stop by anytime.

I'm having some crazy keyboard issues that are LITERALLY driving me mad. I had this issue a few months ago and I solved it by simply creating a new user in Vista. Essentially, whenever I open up a game, regardless of it being windowed or fullscreen, my keyboard bugs out. All my buttons are irresponsive unless I am holding shift, ctrl, or alt. To press "enter" I have to have my shift key pressed as well. The problem occured today while I was letting Mp3Gain adjust the volume of my Itunes library. I played a game of Prototype and left the house for a while, letting Mp3Gain run. When I came back and tried to play, the problem began. I HONESTLY don't know what could have occured HOWEVER if I can't solve the problem I'm doing a fresh install with 64 bit Vista, as I just recently UPGRADED from a Pentium D to a Core 2 Quad.

Specs:
Windows Vista Pro
MSI G33M Mobo
Intel Q5500 Core 2 Quad 3.15 GHz
Evga GTX260
2x1gb PATRIOT somethingorother, 2x1gb G.skill DDR2
Tagan BZ800 800w PSUSwap in another keyboard and see if it cures the problem.Already have tried another keyboard, one non-USB and one USB. Both had the same problem.Can you try open a game in safe mode and see if you get the same result.This sounds like it might be something caused by one of those language bar apps.

Nothing overtly comes to mind, but I'm hoping that I might jar someone elses memory.Hmm, after restarting in safe mode I couldn't open any games up. I didn't have an internet connection or apparently a display driver. Just kept getting errors when trying to open them up, saying I didn't have a display adapter. Lame..... Would you guys suggest I just try a fresh install? I have no problem with that it's just a pain in the *censored*, hah.See if there's anything showing up in device manager......black on yellow!

Whilst building a computer for the first time I have encountered a problem. The CD-ROM drive that i have connected does not work. The device itself POWERS up but only once i have disconnected the IDE CABLE. After plugging the IDE cable back in, the drive no LONGER works again.

I have tried a vast amount of different cables and drives but i encounter the same problem each time. I have even tried using two different power supply units. The floppy drive and hard disk that i have INSTALLED both appear to be working ok though.

ThanksIf you have tried other data cables and PSU's the drive itself has probably gone South...Quote from: patio on July 15, 2009, 06:19:37 PM

If you have tried other data cables and PSU's the drive itself has probably gone South...

i've asus m2n68-am SE2 motherboard amd athlon x2 processor, after affected by some kind of virus my
computer starts failing to start properly and
beging to restart automatically...then i cut the
power connection and tried again to start bt i
saw my computer stops at BIOS(ver.2.61)
page and its settings were scramled i got no
clue why this happend!!! i remove the battery
from the motherboard nd insert it again i load
the default values of BIOS then i FORMAT the
computer not once but thrice coz from my
front panel audio jacks i can't HEAR the sounds
but my headphones were OK i tested it with
other computer. Now my computer giving me
trouble very much when i play a video wt WMP
it SHOWS that Media player can't play this video
when hibernation or standby mode is on
something like that....today when i was surfing
the net my computr starts restarting
automatically again and again i scan my pc
with latest anti viruses AVG 8 and avast 4.8
pro ver.1why i can't hear any sound from my
headphone through front panel audio jacks(but
speakers are working fine i.e. from back panel)
and why my computer restarts suddenly after time to
time....? plzzz help me and i want to know bios configuaration speacially for the advance tab option is there any change to make that i don't know... plzz help me any one...monamour010, Welcome to the CH forums. I have a feeling that you may well be best served by having this post transfer ed to the "Virus Forum". In the MEANWHILE i do have one observation that can only help somewhat. Your COMMENT re using 2 virus programs to try and deal with your issue is potentially a cause of some problems. Assuming that both these programs are both on your computer at the same time that is not a good plan. Chose one of them that you like best and remove the other.Then try the computer again and tell us if there are any noticeable changes in the performance. truenorth

Hey,
Ive decided to build a computer ( and when i say this i mean a knowledgable friend will be building it for me) and i would like opinions on the hardware i plan to purchase for it. I am by no means an expert and thats why id appreciate any comments, or even what i should get instead of said parts.
Explanations behind your opinons would be super handy as it teaches me and will help me in the future.
Anyways these are the current parts im thinking of going for, with prices, most being priced from
http://www.msy.com.au/Parts/PARTS.pdf


1GB 467o gigabyte graphics card - $129
Asus M4A78-EM - $120
x3 Phenom II 710 - $162
Seagate SATA 1TB - $125
4G Kit-800(2x2G) Kingston - $63
IDE Samsung DVD DRIVE write and burn - $35:
PSU Seasonic PSR550+ - $125
Coolermaster 330 - $75

It's also prob important to note im going to be using the comp for gaming, but not high end gaming, and would like to keep the price around 800 or less.

Thankyou for any help =) I'd beef up the PSU...other than that looks good to me....what country do you live in?Hi! That MoBo can handle a Ph2 X4 940..... with the price of $190.00, you would have room to upgrade in the future..... Even if you don't OC.... a 3.0 Ghz CPU is the way to go! And yes Patio is on with the PSU....Get 650Watts min.... Good Luck! I have noticed that your optical drive is IDE try to upgrade to a SATA drive because it will be faster and only a tiny bit more expensive.

Another thing to look into is fitting a Bluray drive if you can afford one because they are getting cheaper and they are very good for backups.

Other than that it will be a good PC - Much better than mine!

Cameron GrayOn newegg sata drives are the same price as ide. I really dont THINK theres much of a speed difference eitherYes computeruler, not much of a speed increase, but(you knew there had to be a BUT in here) go for the future, SATA.... Why not!....... I agree. Go sata. Just cause its a thinner cable and I like it better. Hey! Has anyone heard from Luxce lately..... awsome, ive been checking up on this on my phone, and your help has been useful =) Its mainly also helped me know im not fully off-track with what im buying and wont be wasting money. Need to look into the Sata more, and PSU prices. cheers Hey good to HEAR from ya' Try http://newegg.com/n82e16822136319..... Great HDD Western Digital 640GB - just got one, It's great..... The five yr warrenties not bad..... Also look at the PSU's..... Good luck Well ive been going around to the comp shops in box hill (australia =) ) and gotten some opinons and prices and this is what im thinking of atm. A few modified prices.

Asus M4A78-EM - $115
AMDx550 instead of x3 Phenom II 710- $138
Seagate SATA 1TB - $125
4G Kit-800(2x2G) Kingston - $63
SATA Samsung DVD instead of IDE- $49
PSU Seasonic PSR550+ - $125
Coolermaster 330 - $78

and this plus some building costs ends up being $782 which is what i feel is relativly good. Only problem now is the graphics card. Any ideas of what would be best?

My budget ends at $1000 and was hoping to get a second hand LCD screen somewhere within this price bracket. But chances are that isnt very possible lol. But i still dont want to spend the remaining money on a graphics card, so somewhere round the $150 range if possible. or less... that said i dont want to have to scimp. So any ideas would be great =)

Also unsure about the power supply i can go with the PSU Seasonic PSR550+ for $125 or the CoolerMaster eXtreme Power Plus 650W Power supply for $125. Which would be best?

Thanks againYou'll likely want the phenom II X2 550 over the X3 710, one less core but faster. In my opinion, a faster CPU is probably better than more core.

Also the X2 550 is cheaper but has nice overclock potential if you're into that sort of thing.Wow thats expensive for a optical drive! Sence this is a gaming computer then I would go for a higher clocked dual core instead of a LOWER clocked tri core

I wasn't TRYING to be sarcastic. I do appriciate everyone that takes the time to TRY and assist. Even when I GET irritated :/

All my ram is KINGSTON and the same exact type except one is 512mb. All new. I have tried to make it work long PAST the 30 day return policy as I originaly bought some crap patriot ram. They were very kind and returned twice the other product when they did not have to. I am positive there is nothing wrong with the ram so I wont try to get it returned (which I cant anyway)

I tried working 2gb to no end. If my board cant handle 2 different sizes 1gb ram + GFX card still better than 2gb ram.

My dad bought a P4 2.8ghz dual core with 2gb ddr2 ram used for $160 (which I can get more of) after I spent $130 for my computer and $100 for ram. Some dissapointment there you can see what my next purchase would be.

I am a FIRE alarm technician, and a control panel that i need to print data from says it needs an 80 LINE printer to send to. The manufacturer is not helpful at all, and i would just LIKE to KNOW if modern printers will support an 80 line format. Any HELP would be much appreciated.

I am USING and HP Pavilion Laptop, using Vista and a few months ago the CD/DVD Rom is not accessable. I went to device manager and there is a ! on the CD drive. I am not sure of uninstalling the drive and reinstalling since I don't have the original install disk.
Any ideas on how to GET this back working?



You can uninstall the drive and re start >Vista will recognise >the driver can be downloaded from HP site










You can Quote

the driver can be downloaded from HP site

I have a PROBLEM with both a printer and a CD. My printer stopped working so I tried purging the documents several times & then FINALLY decided to put the driver in and start all over. The weird thing is that I put the printer driver in and the CD driver won't start up. I tried some other CD DISKS and still no luck. I can't print and the CD component won't go. I haven't BURNED any Cd's either.

Thanks in advance.

Lisa
INTERNET explorer 6
Windows xp
250 GB
intel Pentium 4
2.66 g
Cyber Power custom configured
memory 512MB

hello guys PLS if you can help me here.
i have notice since i install the hp all in one software my pc slows on start-up.
i do disc clean-up check the errors, defrag, delete the start-up programs on start-up folder but unfortunately it didnt work.
i run msconfig but i cant change the services, it says " access denied you cant change services you have to LOG-on as ADMINISTRATOR" im so CONFUSE with this since im logged as administrator.
lastly i tried regedit to locate this pml driver hpz12 but it didnt work at all.
my last resort will be the reformatting but before this ill also need your advice what may be the best.
im running xp sp2 home edition.

thanks guys
Please, post some computer info:
- processor type, amount of RAM (hold Windows logo key, hit Pause/Break key)
- hard drive size/free space (open "My Computer", right click on hard drive letter, click "Properties")


Download HijackThis:
http://www.trendsecure.com/portal/en-US/tools/security_tools/hijackthis/download
by clicking on Download HijackThis Installer
Install, and run it.
Post HijackTHis log.
Do NOT attempt to fix anything!

intel core 2 duo 2.66ghz 3mb L2
2x 1gb ddr2
160gb hard drive/ free space 78gb
Quote from: Broni on July 13, 2009, 10:34:00 AM

Please, post some computer info:
- processor type, amount of RAM (hold Windows logo key, hit Pause/Break key)
- hard drive size/free space (open "My Computer", right click on hard drive letter, click "Properties")


Download HijackThis:
http://www.trendsecure.com/portal/en-US/tools/security_tools/hijackthis/download
by clicking on Download HijackThis Installer
Install, and run it.
Post HijackTHis log.
Do NOT attempt to fix anything!

What is inside this machine ? ?I had a similar problem with a Dell Optiplex GX260 which I had been given to repair. When the system was switched on, all that happened was the power button LED turned amber and not its usual green and the fans spun. No video output or any power going to connected devices. The problem was the processor. The processor had been stuck the the heat sink and the pins on the processor were not properly in place which was preventing the system from starting. After correcting this, the computer started without a problem. So I have a strong feeling that it is the processor in your computer which is causing the problem.I'm not sure what's in the computer, but I'll see if I can find out. How do I confirm that the processor is the problem, and how do I fix it if it is?Until you find out what's in there anything would be sheer guesswork.I have a PheonixBios (I FINALLY FOUND the chip) and an AMD Athalon 64 processor. both the lights on the front of the computer are on, and the monitor is receiving a signal, but it is going straight to "sleep" mode and won't come out.Try REPLACING the CMOS battery, they take a CR-2032, you can buy them almost anywhere. To locate the battery on the mother board locate something about the size of a nickel. Make sure that the computer is powered off, and that you are grounded to the computer at all times. You can accomplish that by just hanging on to the steel casing while you work.Quote from: Quantos on June 30, 2009, 08:17:06 PM

Try replacing the CMOS battery, they take a CR-2032, you can buy them almost anywhere. To locate the battery on the mother board locate something about the size of a nickel. Make sure that the computer is powered off, and that you are grounded to the computer at all times. You can accomplish that by just hanging on to the steel casing while you work.

They are commonly available at most retail stores -- discount stores like Wal-Mart, or Target; drug stores like CVS or Walgreen's; jewelry stores (though more expensive at such places [it is considered a watch battery]); privately owned retail stores which may carry a line of batteries.

I bought a clearance 8.9 eee pc from target @ $181 unfortunately i then found out win 7 won't work on it and worse for $249 they had a 10 inch eee pc which i thought would be able to handle win 7...strike 2 actuially

and rather unbelievably BOTH are 900 mhz netbooks with win xp home and 1 gig of sys mem though the small
pc only has a 16gb ssd while the 10 inch has a 160 gb hdd.

Neither has a dvd drive but i'm using a external drive and an included dvd that's supposed to return them to factory defaults.

When the disk comes up it says drivers,utilities and contact but nowhere does it say restore to factory defaults
here.

Can anyone tell me how 2 wipe these drives clean as i already found a suitable pc for win 7's arrival in oct.

I was originally happy with the small pc but then was going to transfer everything to the 10' sale pc but
found a program that tells you if you can handle win 7 and while i'm happy with xp i know the support will
go away and i'll be banging on a stone tablet with a chizzle.

Anyway please help. Well i ended up getting them wiped and now back they go to someone satisfied with xp and unaware of it's impending obsolescence.If you don't mind me asking, how did you return them to the original state?

I am glad that you found a solution. I just don't have any experience with those small devices, and I'm curious.Netbooks don't have a cd/dvd drive so i used an external usb optical disc drive and pushed f2 then selected
boot from disc which returned the netbooks to factory default and when powered on started asking name and
etc what it did the first time.

Later models you can push fn + f9-3x upon boot to return it to factory defaults though they still come with the disc.

I ended up with the 1005 ha-p which can handle win 7 and upgraded the mem from 1GB TO 2GB.

It still has no disc drive but i picked up a asus slim PROFILE usb powered cd/dvd reader/wrighter as the one i used before was to big for portability.If you are interested in wiping the drive totally? I USE a software from WhiteCanyon [wipe drive]haha, "impending obsolescence" That's rich.

the meaning of the term "obsolete" has suddenly taken on the meaning "outdated" when in fact an outdated PC is still far from obsolete, since the precise definition implicates that obsolescence is directly PROPORTIONAL to it's ability to meet the needs of it's user. I know many people still using windows 98SE, and it meets their needs. It runs all the applications they want to run so under their definition it isn't obsolete.

I could take the moniker further and say that both vista and Windows 7 will become obsolete and thus their obsolescence is impending as well.Good post BC ProgrammerWell like everything in the TECH sector it's really PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE as from release of any product they're already back at the drawing board creating it's successor. No where does this happen faster than video games where even before you buy whatever system the clock is ticking on how long before the next MUST have system-though the current generation seems to have slowed it could also be the economy and also the sheer complexity of creating today's biggest hits.

your talking to somebody who still plays the original doom.... Which I might add seems to be basically the same game that is being released today. jDoom is virtually indistiguishable as a "old" game that it was.Quote from: BC_Programmer on July 11, 2009, 10:56:58 AM

haha, "impending obsolescence" That's rich.

the meaning of the term "obsolete" has suddenly taken on the meaning "outdated" when in fact an outdated PC is still far from obsolete, since the precise definition implicates that obsolescence is directly proportional to it's ability to meet the needs of it's user. I know many people still using windows 98SE, and it meets their needs. It runs all the applications they want to run so under their definition it isn't obsolete.

I could take the moniker further and say that both vista and Windows 7 will become obsolete and thus their obsolescence is impending as well.

ok ok $2

Do I here $2.50? Anyone? Anyone?yea i know just i have more luck on forms i still particapate in helping peopleI'd buy it - for a fair price - if I wasn't broke. Please don't tempt me.
Buy/sell/trade boards are great on some websites, we don't have one here which I THINK is why some people have a bee in their bonnet about this thread.
I think you'll have better luck on Ebay to be honest, the 939 processors can still COMMAND a decent price for those wanting to extend the life of their system and here you're more likely to find bargain hunters who won't give you a decent price even if they were genuinely interested.
Just my £0.02.I'll give you two old BUTTONS and a piece of string. I'm willing to give you two pieces of string, both about 5 cm.

I'll also give you a ketchup packet and an empty bottle of snapple- some blackbery flavour, but I could always REMOVE the label if fruits offend you or something.

But wait

there's more!

ACCEPT now, and you'll get this chocolate bar wrapper!

I have a computer search program looking for INAPPROPRIATE material on my computer. However, after asking, the software does not search for Shockwave video or other flash video FILES on the harddrive. My QUESTION is: if a video under this format is watched on the computer (such as you TUBE), does the computer "save" it as it does a Realtime or WMP file? And if so, is there a way to search for it on the computer to SEE what has been viewed?

Thank you

My CDROM is intermittently being accessed by my computer, the LIGHT and motor working.
It might be happening when visiting PHOTOBUCKET or using Windows Media Player.....
I just recently did all the windows updates, including WMP11... SEEMS this started happening right after that. Wasn't SURE to put this in Software...
Thanks for your help.
TomFollow these:
1. Check if there is a virus in your PC
2. Make sure the IDE cable is tight
3. Update the DRIVERS

Recently the left button on my touchpad stopped working, I opened it up and found that theres a small dent in the small metal square encasing the sensor and basically the button is stuck in one position. How do I fix this? Is there any way to get the button back to it's original position?Quote from: sonicpanda123 on July 13, 2009, 08:18:03 PM

Recently the left button on my touchpad stopped working, I opened it up and found that theres a small dent in the small metal square encasing the sensor

Hi,

I bought a new hard drive for my existing XP SP2 system, and would obviously like to *use* it. The drive is an S-ATA II device and there are four devices already attached (and working properly) to the IDE controllers.

My XP installation apparently lacks SATA drivers, because attempting to boot with the bios exposing the drive natively leads to a BSOD, even though I'm not booting from the new drive. I set the bios to emulate the drive as an IDE device ("S-ATA drive mode") and I'm then able to boot into XP. I don't really care that performance will suffer from this IDE emulation; I just want to get my data moved over, as I plan to install the latest Win7 release afterwards (and get RID of some old disks).

The problem is that the new drive doesn't show up as another volume in XP. The drive is detected in the bios and even SHOWS up in device manager, where it says "this device is working properly" and reports it as being at "Location 0 (0)" on the "General" tab of the properties dialog. On the "Volumes" tab, after clicking the populate button, it says disk 0, type unknown, STATUS not INITIALIZED, partition style not applicable, and there are no volumes. I tried the "update driver" button, but it doesn't find anything.

Does anyone have any idea how I should PROCEED from here?

The only thing I can think of really is to download Win7, which of course has S-ATA drivers, burn it to a disc, set my bios to run the new drive natively, boot from the CD and install it on the new drive. But as I haven't tried Win7 yet I'm a little worried if I would for any reason need to go back to XP later. :|have you partitoned the new drive an formatted it? I dont recommened use windows 7 at this point unless you have your data backed up. From what I know its still in testing any way.How is it reported in Disk Management ? ?
Right clik My Computer...select Manage...then Disk Management.
Report back with your findings...

I returned my Rosewill RC209 SATA CARD and purchased an IDE to SATA Adapter. I am now trying to install Windows XP on my 1TB SATA Western Digital Hard Drive. I am aware that Windows XP cant format on a SATA Drive without SATA Drivers. The problem is my motherboard doesnt support SATA as standard (reason why I bout IDE to SATA Adapter). I have no way of getting drivers for hard drive. XP asks for a floppy diskette but I dont have a floppy drive and I dont know what drivers to get since my motherboard doesnt support SATA. Im stuck. How do I install Windows XP on a SATA Hard Drive thats running off an IDE to SATA Adapter. THANX!!!!!I think that you need the floppy drive and drivers if you are instlling a RAID. I just formatted and installed XP on a SATA hard drive. It installed like it normally does. You should onl need the SATA drivers for install on an array of disks.

Have you tried to install normally?

In the BIOS disable the RAID settings, the SATA drive should be able to emulate EIDE without any loss in performance.My motherboard is the MSI 648 MAX. It does not have any features in the BIOS to allow me to disable RAID. How can I do this?I think you need a PCI or PCI-Express to SATA adapter to do this. If you don't have these ports because you want SLI or CrossFire, use devices with single-slot coolers.Not quite sure i understand...the drive should be recognised as IDE because that's what the MBoard will report it as...
Have you tried the install yet ? ?

What MBoard are we talking about here ? ?

Very early on in Setup at the bottom of the screen you will see a PROMPT "Press F6 to install additional Drivers".....
That's when you put in the media containing the SATA drivers
But this will not help if the MBoard does NOT support SATA.

From a review:
Quote

To be honest we were a bit surprised that MSI doesn't have a version of the 648 MAX-F with onboard IDE RAID
. Since most motherboards in the 648 MAX-F's class will have IDE RAID, it does put the board at a slight disadvantage in terms of the "full check list".

The CD and DVD rws on my computer only work for the first user to log on, does anyone know what is WRONG??

Can anyone help me??Are you using 'Fast User SWITCHING'?

A lot of drives/drivers don't like that. Try actually logging off, and then using the next profile.That worked, but is there any way to change that?(be ABLE to use fast user switching) No, if the HARDWARE doesn't like it then the only CHOICE is to change the hardware.

FUS is fairly useless anyway, why would you want to use it?

Hi. Could anyone please give me some advice. I need to get hold of a Dell Dimension 5150 motherboard, I have done some searches but to no avail. I don't want to buy direct from Dell due to a long winded recent problem. Can anyone suggest some online retailers who could get me a such board. Thanks

Best Regards
ChrisQuote from: ash41 on July 13, 2009, 04:40:23 PM

Hi. Could anyone please give me some advice. I need to get hold of a Dell Dimension 5150 motherboard,

I'm having troubles with my laptop. The back light or lcd is burnt out so the display is dark. I've hooked the laptop up to an old Sony monitor, and it appears to work when starting up, up until "windows is loading," the display is fine, but once windows actually loads the Sony monitor kind of flashes and turns off. The laptop display is still black.
So, I started in SAFE mode, and the display on the Sony monitor is working fine, I've looked for drivers but EVERYTHING is up to date and compatible. I'm running Windows XP, the laptop is an hp pavillion zd 7000. The monitor is Sony cpd-e240.

Any ideas?I would guess the resolution you have set in your laptop (while running normal mode) is HIGHER than your monitor will support. TRY accessing your display settings while in safe mode and set the resolution to a lower value, then restart to normal mode.That was it, thanks.No problem. Glad you got it going.

I have an emachines W3052, with WINDOWS xp. I was trying to set up my new ipod but computer was not recognizing it. Apple instructions were to uninstall USB drives then re-start computer..which I did. Turned computer off that night and in am I am staring at a DOS page saying master DISC HDD SMART disabled...and at the bottom it says "boot with disc". I only have a recovery disc as I got this computer used. It won't let me type anything in at all. I don't know what to do as I use this computer for work and cannot afford a new one. If I insert recovery disc 1 it says I will lose all applications if I continue. I use my Microsoft office, publisher, excel etc....Please HelpHow old is this machine?

Is it still under warranty?