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well i bought a cable with the three colors for tv and and s-video and audio plug for the computer. i was told to shut off tv and cpu, then plug stuff in then TURN on. when i turn on cpu it starts beeping then an error message pops up saying trap 00000006=====exception and i have to unplug s video cord and restart for the cpu to turn on. im not sure what to do please helpHave you tried plugging in the s-video cable to the computer after the computer's already on?

The difficult part of going from s-video to rca is that often the computer will have trouble autodetecting what type of DISPLAY it is (or won't even TRY).I don't think they are going to RCA, perhaps RGB or component? I say this because S-video does not carry sound, so a S-vid to RCA would only have a yellow, not 3

If your graphics card does not have the correct drivers (EG windows ones rather than the ATi or nVidia ones) It may not operate corrently, also, if the graphics card does not support TV-out it will not work.

What is the brand and model of your card?Quote from: Kurtiskain on July 21, 2009, 08:43:00 PM

I don't think they are going to RCA, perhaps RGB or component? I say this because S-video does not carry sound, so a S-vid to RCA would only have a yellow, not 3

If your graphics card does not have the correct drivers (eg windows ones rather than the ATi or nVidia ones) It may not operate corrently, also, if the graphics card does not support TV-out it will not work.

What is the brand and model of your card?

I have a VIDEO clip that is 0 . 99 GB in size

WOULD I be right that this is not even 1 GB yet??

If something is ONE Gig would it not say 1 . 00 GBYes.

Homework?You may as well consider it a 1 GB file, since it is only a hundredth away from 1 GB.
Technically, though, it is not a 1 GB file, as Carbon has indicated.I have a progress bar, that says 99%. Is it done?

I have 99 cents. Can I buy something that COSTS a dollar?
99 people are going to a watch a movie. Should we get 100 tickets?Quote

Technically, though, it is not a 1 GB file, as Carbon has indicated.

Hi i have an Intel D945GCNL Motherboard. I would like to know which all hard disk drives will be compatible with my motherboard. I was planning on uprading to a SEAGATE Barracuda® 7200.11 model#ST3750330AS 750GB or model#ST31000333AS 1TB ( SATA 3.0Gb/s ). My MOTHER board has SATA PORTS but i don know if its like it supports SATA 1 only or SATA 2 like that. So please help me.Yes.
All HDD's should be supported.

What parts are neede to build a computer?1) Please post questions only once. I deleted the DUPLICATE thread.

2) Google response to your question: http://www.google.com/search?hl=&q=what+parts+are+needed+to+build+a+computer&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGLL_en-GBUS430US394&ie=UTF-8&aq=0&oq=what+parts+are+needUsually...
Case
Power supply
Motherboard
CPU
RAM (memory)
HDD or SSD (storage)
Optical drive (DVD/CD/BD drive)
Video card if there isn't a video chip onboard or if higher performance is needed
Sound card if there's no onboard sound (very rare nowadays) or better sound output is needed
Network card if there's no onboard network (very rare nowadays) or a better card is needed
Cooling of some sort, at least a CPU heatsink & usually a fan, usually one or more case fans too

Hope this helps Added to Calums list: ( to make computer operational for a USER )

Operating System (OS can run off of Hard Drive/Solid State Drive, USB Drive, Optical Drive such as a Live Distro of Linux, Floppy Disk, or you can have it boot off of the PXE if Network Adapter SUPPORTS PXE ( most modern NICs do ) if you have a THIN Client Server running that is hosting operating systems for systems requesting PXE service. )
Mouse ( optional, but most builds have them, if a stand alone server not needed )
Keyboard (optional, but needed if not a stand alone server *If stand alone server and no keyboard is to be used after build, you will have to specifiy in BIOS to ignore missing keyboard at boot or your server WOULD not boot because it would hang at POST)
Display ( optional, but needed if not a stand alone server )
Power Cables
Cat5 Cable for Network if not wifi

Hi Everyone,

We have a 2 year old PC that gets general household use. We powered down our PC before we went on vacation, and when we got back, it wouldn't power back up. I figured that it might be time for a NEW power supply, so I bought a new Coolmax 600wt ps.

Now, when I go to TURN it on from the MAIN front panel switch, STILL nothing happens.

But when I switch off the power at the power supply switch at the rear of the case where the CORD gets plugged in to, and turn it back on, the fans on the case and cpu "engage" and "light up" for a split second and then shut back down again???

Any thoughts on what I could check out would be appreciated. I'm hoping the mb hasn't decided to crap out on me.

Everything is plugged in where it needs to be and all connections are sung.

Thanks,Getting the pin connectors which connect the power switch and LED's, etc., from the front panel to the motherboard can be a pain. You might double-check those.

What was the computer doing before you replaced the power supply? Did the fans or LED's come on at all?
The old ps and computer didn't do anything when turned on.

The old ps did have an "illuminated" switch that flickered intermittently. I removed it to see if the fuse may have blown inside the ps box itself.

When I opened up the case, several components including the fuse looked pretty toasted. That's what prompted me to replace the whole ps unit.Quote

When I opened up the case

Hi all...I have a regular laptop...Toshiba...with Windows Vista for OS. I too have recently been experiencing the problem where my laptop shuts down by itself with no warning. At first I thought maybe my battery pack to it had overheated (even though I was running on electric, like i always do), so I immediately TURNED on some fans nearby. The problem is still ongoing. If anyone has any suggestions on what the problem is and how to fix it I would be greatly appreciative. I am an on-line poker PLAYER playing for real money and it is really annoying to be in the middle of a game and have your computer turn off.This may be an overheating issue....

Have a look at this site for some suggestions and see if they apply ...

http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2006/01/04/toshiba-laptop-overheating/

now we're completely separated from the rest of Canada... except where we connect to their wallet...nothing WRONG with that Here's how it is, down in the States:

A MAN in a suit, carrying a briefcase, was ACCOSTED by a robber, who pointed a pistol at his victim and demanded, "Give me your money!"

The man DREW up, and exclaimed, "You can't do this to me! I'm a United States Congressman!"

The robber RESPONDED, "In that case, give me my money!"lol cant argue with that, 100% trueI dont get itQuote

have we not been "brainwashed" in a sense by that company?

now we're completely separated from the rest of Canada... except where we connect to their wallet...

Hi everyone was just wondering if a pci-2.0 VIDEO card would work on this mobo IM not sure on the specs so i got the link to were i bought it a while back any help is appreciated

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2896645&csid=ITD&body=MAINYes. SWEET i know it wont work to its fullest but i really dont want to get a new mobo atm thanks for the quick reply One thing though. What is your power supply rating in watts?only 600w im gonna upgrade it to 1000w i think to get the 8 pin pcie and to get more power through my system The computer will only use what is needed as far as the power supply. If you think by increasing the supply and getting boost on hardware it wont happen.If 600W is plenty for your system, getting a 1000W power supply would be a waste of money.

But if you are just on the edge of your current power supply, getting higher power PSU would CERTAINLY lighten the load on it and perhaps you'll get more performance out of the hardware you have if your computer's no longer struggling to work hmm never thought of that i might try it thanksThere's absolutely nothing wrong with a 1000W PSU...
Provided it's from a good manuf.
I'd consider it an INVESTMENT in the Future.

The COMPUTER store guy sez the processor will lose some functionality if I use DDR2 memory with my amd 710 X3 instead of DDR3. If the mobo (which I haven't decided on yet) is am2+ and/or am3 shouldn't the cpu & the memory both use all their major resources? I think the guy means that the CPU will be quite useless if you will use a low memory. (Not sure. Hehehe)


Something like this: You have a 2.80GHz dual-core CPU for example, but you only have 512MB DDR2 533He's full of it...
If your MBoard supports it then it will RUN with either...Agreed with patio. Of course, if you get a motherboard supporting ddr3... then... well it wont FIT. 800mhz ram should be good, unless you want to overclock then get 1066Not sure what that means...the form factor is the same.oh didnt know that

Okay, here's my situation my parents have a virus filled PC with two SATA HDDs (one OS & one storage). The system BARELY works anymore, so i'm gonna back the files up for them & do a reinstall of Ubuntu Linux instead of the XP they were running.

I have IDE hard drives with Windows 2000 & Ubuntu on them. I WANT to put 1 in the PC and use it as the OS drive while I'm backing their data. To do this I need both the SATA drives to not boot cause i want to boot from the IDE drive. It has two IDE DVD drives hooked up and looks like one extra slot for an IDE ribbon cable.

Can someone help me, and tell me what I need to do the accomplish booting from my IDE HDD?If im following you right? Dont have the drives connected, only the one you want to use at the moment.no, i need the 2 SATA drives conected as well the IDE one.
I need to copy data from one SATA drive to the other.Just thought of 2 more options:
1. use the Ubuntu live CD as my OS and copy all the files from one drive to the other
2. create a partition on the OS drive and install a temporary OS there.

What do you think?Columbis took a chanceQuote from: xavier on July 21, 2009, 05:12:04 PM

Columbis took a chance

If i were you i would first determine which HDD is going to be the main boot drive...
I would then remove that drive and hook it up as a slave drive to back up all the data using This Guide....

System: VISTA 64-bit
Manufacturer : Cyberpower
AMD Phenom 9850 x4
4 GB ram
Nvidia 9800 GTX

What I did:

In Jump Configuration - I changed Auto to AL Overclock, then chose overclock 10%.

In CPU Configuration,
I changed the DDR2(?) from auto to 1066. I also remember it having to do something with Memory Clock...

Problem: When I start my COMPUTER, no screen shows up. Meaning I cant reset it to default or reformat my disc ( atleast I donno how).

Help please,
Thank you Remove the CMOS battery for 20 minutes...hit the Power switch while it's out a few times to discharge any resident juice...

Replace the CMOS battery and power back up.Thank you so much!

It worked No Problem...and Welcome Aboard !

Hi, I have a few questions to ask. I dont know who this is for, but im hoping you can help. :-/
I have a compaq computer that i got in 2000. When i turn the computer on, the pc is on but when i turn the monitor on, it turns on but its a completely black screen. Now once in a blue moon and i can actually get on it and it'll go through windows to the desktop, otherwise its not. Now people have TOLD me i should just get a new monitor or a video card.
But when I place the monitor with a different hard drive it works perfectly and it turns on in a snap. I place a different monitor on my hard drive, it doesnt work. Strange huh?
Just a few weeks ago I brought it into a computer store and they cleaned everything out of it, so it is free of viruses and worms. They also put in 128 full of memory. Whats the deal? So is it a hardware problem or monitor?
My next question is, once when i finally get it up and running. And it is through windows and on the desktop, in a matter of 5 minutes it freezes up on me. I cant move the mouse and I have to retart the computer manually. What is this?
THANKS so much for reading this and helping me out. I will greatly appreciate your feeback.
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=http://support.microsoft.com:80/support/kb/articles/q155/0/53.asp&NoWebContent=1 it does seem to point to a graphic card test it if you can type dxdiag in the run box also any beeping on booting?If you are saying it works with different harddrives, you should consider replacing the one currently installed and see if it functions better as a slave.yes there is beeping and where can i locate the run box? Because i dont think i can type it in if its a completely black screen. if i do BUY a new video card, how do i put it in and can i use my same monitor with the new card?ok before you part with your cash ...re-boot pc and hit the f8 key and type dxdiag in the run box this will test your graphics card this could be a driver issue? ...also if you right-click with your mouse if you can my computer /properties/DEVICE manager andd scroll down the list are there any yellow tri-angles?now the computer finally goes on all the way, there are no beeps. the windows screen comes up and it freezes, i dont get it. i tried to press f8 and no boxes came up to put the dxdiag in. there are no yellow triangles in the device manager. i just dont get it...grrHere is what Merlin meant:

Upon booting, press F8 (Or CTRL, may differ) and select 'safe mode' from the list.

Once you are in safemode, go to start -> Run -> Dxdiag and press enter.

Head to the 'monitor' tab and select the diagnostic tests.it says there is no problems with anything. now everytime i turn the computer the monitor works with it. whats the deal...should i still buy a video card as a back up?If your computer is still locking up I would check a few things. First off have you installed more than one anti-virus program? Do a cntrl alt delete and watch you computers preformance see if it goes above around 15% or so when its sitting still. Let me know what happens. Thanks,Adam


[REMOVED. Do not advertise on our forum]Nothing like a 4 1/2 year old bump to get people thinking again...
Maybe they'll be back though...That's odd.. Mine said 2008 - or maybe it's almost 5 ... lol Probably my mistake. OMG it's back from the dead! :



Haha still got Raptor's original profile posted here...No one noticed his SPAM?

Hi guys. I have a "mutt" computer. One that I peiced together, no PARTICULAR brand. It worked great until about a month ago. Now, when you try to turn it on, the power light comes on, but the computer never boots up. There are no error beeps. Nothing happens. It is getting frustrating. I hate to start taking it apart without knowing what I am looking for. Does anyone have any IDEAS? Do fans spin ? Do you have SPARE power supply to TEST?I don't have an extra power supply. I was thinking that it might be a problem with that, but I am not a professional tech guy so I didn't want to start taking things out without being sure what the problem might be.Dis connect everything leaving only the monitor hooked up to your video card,leave the MEMORY installed,cpu, fans, power up the pc & see if it posts

Update- after buying a NEW PSU the PC is WORKING. THANKS guys.Excellent !
Stop by anytime...

What have you disabled in devices > >

I have two types of connector specs and I wanted to know what the diferance was?
The FIRST connector has 5. Wires and 15. Pins

The next connector has 4. Wires and 4. Pins.


Power Supply ATX Connector 5. Pin Devices Color Code.

Pin 1. / 2. / 3. = Orange Wire + 3.3 Volts.
Pin 4. / 5. / 6. = Black Wire Ground.
Pin 7. / 8. / 9. = Red Wire + 5 Volts.
Pin 10 / 11 / 12 = Black Wire Ground.
Pin 13 / 14 / 15 = Yellow Wire + 12 Volts.

Power Supply AT / ATX Connector 4. Pin Devices Color Code.

Pin 1. = Yellow Wire + 12 Volts.
Pin 2. = Black Wire Ground.
Pin 3. = Black Wire Ground.
Pin 4. = Red Wire + 5. Volts.What do you mean by differences? The 15-pin 5-cable connector sounds like the Sata DEVICE power, the 4-pin 4-cable connector sounds like the standard Molex ATA device power.

These are shown on this site which was linked to you in a post just last November.

I just did a system RECOVERY on my computer to fix some stuff. But now my computer can't detect my Printer and when I finally get it to be DETECTED, it opens the window to add new hardware, and it tells me to insert a disk if I have one, which I don't, so I go with automatic updates but than it won't install and installation fails. Now I can't use my printer. Any help?Reinstall printer.Download the DRIVER for the printer from the MFG. sitechubby,suggestions already provided should resolve your problem.But just in case they don't what is displayed in "control panel" under "printers" if anything?truenorth

just installed xp onto a new hard drive. now i want to change the boot sequence but the system LOCKS up in the BIOS setup. any ideas?GIVE us some PC configuration information. You could GET to the bios alright before the INSTALL. Right?Dis connect the drive & restart to see if it posts

He bought a new sound card didn't he?

Quote

I went out and bought a new sound card

in my sounds & audio devices next to volume (no audio device) and all the settings (sounds,audio,voice) area I cannot select anything to change like its unavailable

Quote from: Peter77 on January 07, 2009, 07:08:09 PM

in my sounds & audio devices next to volume (no audio device) and all the settings (sounds,audio,voice) area I cannot select anything to change like its unavailable

sounds like you don't have the proper drivers installed.

I'll make it quick & precise, I was uninstalling some programs on my cpu that I didnt use. After all said and DONE tried to listen to music the other day. I get a "bad direct sound driver please install proper drivers or select another device in config error code 88780078". now I uninstalled winamp and reinstalled it & updated it = no fix. I went out and bought a new sound card, still installed it = no fix. uninstalled my built in sound card and updated and reinstalled it = no fix. Any clue how I can fix this myself. thanks in advance

Well my Geforce 6600 just died today, think the fan jammed and it overheated and fell into madness.

And so I'm in the market for a new one, Benn looking around msot advice I have found is crap so I put it here, I need a good PCI-e Card costing around £150 good enough to paly msot GAMES nicely, and run programs like 3D studio max well aswell.

Thankyou for your time......



_______________________________________
[links Removed]
Do you have a preference between ati and nvidia? Figured I'd ask seeing as how some people are extreme fanboys and would likely eat thermal compound before buying from competition. I'm working in dollars but I'll have a search around.

Here's a decent ati card near your price range: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102810

If you're looking for nvidia you may want to check out, well actually I wouldn't really suggest a card from nvidia to you right now. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a fanboy but they have just recently released their new card, the 295 and are likely to cut prices on their cards. Right now the 9 series are at the 150 euro price range (if my conversion was right) but I would suggest an 8 series card if you were INTERESTED in a 9 series. I know somebody will disagree but the 8 series and the 9 series are nearly identical. This card is well under your budget but is still a pretty solid card, my friend has one in his rig (and I had one before my upgrade)http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133205&Tpk=8800gt. He still nearly maxes games such as FALLOUT 3. He (and I used to) max out almost all multiplayer games. It's still a pretty powerful card.

The best advice I can give you is to BUY something that will last you some bit of time but don't go for the top end. If you buy things that will be running your current apps at min/little over REC. specs you'll likely need another upgrade soon and that will only cost you more money in the long run.

What kind of games are you planning on playing, maybe specific titles? Are you also sure that yourpower supply and everything is sufficient for a card upgrade? Not trying to insult your intelligence, just trying to tie up the odds and ends to narrow down your choices.

EDIT: What resolution are you playing at?

what is the ABILITY of the BLUETOOTH on my LAPTOP?

Hey:)

I don't know what kind of information you guys are going to need to help me out, so I'll give you everything I know.
My english isn't perfect, and had a hard time finding the english names on the computer parts..

My computer:
Motherboard:Asus P5K SE, P35, Socket-775, DDR2, ATX, GbLAN, PCI-Ex16
Graphics Card: XFX GeForce 8600GTS 675M 256MB GDDR3, PCI-Express, 2xDVI/HDCP, 675/2000Mhz
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 2.67GHz 1333Mhz Socket LGA775, 4MB, BOXED w/fan
Memory Card(RAM): Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's
Samsung SpinPoint P80SD 120GB SATA2 8MB 7200RPM NCQ
CD-rom: Samsung DVD recorder TS-H552U IDE Black Bulk DVD+R/+RW and DVD-R/-RW

Operating system: Microsoft XP Home SP2 Norsk

The problem:
I just bought a new motherboard, a new graphic card, a new processor and a new (memory card).
Me and my dad followed the instructions in the user's manual, and placed the new parts on the new mother board.
But when we boot it, we get a notification of a fault:
Secondary Master Drive - ATAPI Incompatible
Press F1 to resume.
When we press F1, It says : Checking NVRAM
Then this message comes up:
Invalid system disk
Replace the disk, and then press any key

This is the only THING we get up.
We tried to check the homepage of the motherboard card, but they asumed that you have entered the computer before, and we don't even get that far.
The user's manual didn't say anything about this.

So, my question is:
How can I make the Secondary Master Drive ATAPI compatible?
If that's not possible, what do I do?

And please, don't use all those weird expressions like most people do.
Try to explain it really easy and detailed, cuz I'm not very good at this.

Thanks in advance Most of the time...recieving these messages may mean you have a FAILED...or failing drive.

You mentioned what you purchased...so I'm ASSUMING you used your old drives for the new build.

Again, the problem may not be with your motherboard...you are recieving system messages from the board telling you something is wrong...and they are pointing to the drive...so...in my opinion...trying a new drive...and setting up with this new build should correct the problem.

I'm assuming you are also referring to the optical drive...since normally, the Primary Master is the hard drive...correct?

You may want to wait to see what others say, though...

Keep us posted...YES, i used my old drives..
Me and my dad also thought of buying a new drive, but I decided to check the internet to see if somebody has had the same problem.. And I found out that several peope have had almost the same problems.
But the people who helped them used to advanced expressions etc. for me.
They kept using expressions like: jumpers, secondary IDE connections and many more.
I don't understand these expressions, and therefor I can't understand what they want me to do.Answer a few questions for me, please...

1) The Secondary Master is your optical drive...since you are getting the message it is not Atapi compatible...correct?

2) If the above is the case...do you have another spare you can use? If not...you may need to borrow a known working one...or purchase a new one.

3) The drive in question...if optical...is it a plain CD drive...CD burner...or combination CD R/W DVD drive?

It just depends on your preference...as far as the drive goes...what you want...or what you are currently using.1. I don't know, what's an optical drive?
2. I don't have any spare ones I think, and therefor I maybe have to order a new one.
3. It's a combination of cd-drive and cd-burner.An optical drive IS a CD drive...

It would be better if you could get one you know works from an existing machine...maybe...this way...you could actually test to see if it is indeed the problem...without having to buy a new one...just yet.

So you just have regular CD burner, huh? You can find cheap ones online for as little as $20 (USD)...not too much of an investment...but an investment jsut the same. Since you've already updated most of the system...why not? It's up to you, though.

Still...let us know how it goes...Me and my dad decided that it was easier to just order a new hard disk and a new cd burner.
Ty for trying to help me The Saviour You're quite welcome...

Listen...please keep us posted and let us know how the build goes...okay? We always like to see these things through to the end...if you know what I mean...I have just found the same problem in my PC. when i try to arrange a using DVD-Rom to a Laptop with workable a 20Gb DVD-ROM. I found the same problem like Atapi Incompatible..
But after that i try with my system with no hard disk, but the problem come still. Then I try to fix it well and change a better position of the connection. and push more close to the connecters.
It work again, So in my view, this problem are probably coming from the connection between the mainboard and the DVD Rom.

It could be a damaged DVD drive.

Anyways, HuJianWu, start a new topic please.

Hey Everyone,

I was away from school for 3 weeks over the christmas break, and when I came back, my computer would not turn on. When I left, it was turned off, but still plugged in. I haven't had any problems with the computer in the past.

When I press the power button, nothing happens at all. There are no fans, lights, or anything going or even attempting to run. All the other devices running through my power bar are still working but just not the computer. I tried it at different outlets around my house, but the computer won't turn on anywhere. I have no idea why this happened. I am not very experienced with hardware, so I am not sure what to do. Could anyone help me out? It just seems strange that the computer was running fine before i left, and then when i get back, no power seems to be going to it at all.

Details:

Emachines C2825
Windows XP
2800+ AMD Athlon XP Processor

If there is any other information you require to help me out, I will do my best to provide it.

Thanks alotCheck in back of the pc case MAKE sure the switch is set for 110 not 220 volt & if there is a re set switch? If they are ok replace the power cord. If all fails its very POSS its the power supplyWho else had access to the machine ? ?
eMachines are notorious for flakey cheap PSU's so i'd tend to agree with xavier here...Either try a new power cord or a new battery. It could be the battery died.Hey Guys,

Just an update:

No one else had access to the computer. It wasn't being used at all when I was away.

I can't find a switch that would change the power supply, and since no one was using the computer I dont know why it would have switch over if there is one.

I just found out that the power cord is fine. I tried it on my roommates computer and everything worked.

As for the battery: it is a desktop computer so I dont think it has one, but I could be wrong.

So what do I need to look for to see if the PSU is toasted? If it is, is it expensive to fix?

Thanks for responding everyone. Please help me figure this out!I just opened up the power supply box in the computer and i found what looks like a fuse rattling around. It is small black piece with 2 pins coming out the end and says C346 VENT on it. My first reaction was that this was the fuse for the fan and that the computer would not start up because it would overheat. However, I can't find anywhere to plug it in. Would I need to solder it back it? Do you think this is the problem?billab,looks like your on to something "rattling around " parts are not usually a part of a functioning computer. Until someone believes they know what that thing is can you take a digital picture of it and post it as a reply. truenorthQuote from: truenorth on January 07, 2009, 04:54:36 PM

billab,looks like your on to something "rattling around " parts are not usually a part of a functioning computer. Until someone believes they know what that thing is can you take a digital picture of it and post it as a reply. truenorth

sounds very much like a capacitor to me. Now the 64,000 dollar question--where does it belong?truenorth

eMachines are notorious for flakey cheap PSU's so i'd tend to agree with xavier here...

Hi, I just finished building a new PC for my brother and we gave it a test run. We installed UT3 (The Game)to give our new beast a spin. Everything ran fine for a few hours but suddenly the whole thing just shutdown. To save time I won't GO into all of the SPECS details. I have unplugged everything inside the CPU tower and attached just the PSU to the MOBO but still it won't start when I press the power button. All I see is the power LED for a few seconds on the CPU tower before the LED dies completely.

Is my brand new 550W Crosair PSU dead or is my brand new Gigabyte P35-D series MOBO dead? How can I check to see what has gone wrong without having to take it to a tech nerd.

Thanks in advance.Thermal Paste Guide.Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I don't think it's the thermal paste issue. So here are my SYSTEM specs which I picked with the help of this forums members a few months ago.

Code: [Select]MOTHERBOARD = Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11830BD0443

PROCESSOR = Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Quad Core

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=12200BD3212

GRAPHIC CARD = Galaxy GeForce 8800GT

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=24630BD6770

RAM = G.SKILL 4GB / 2 Sticks

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15380BD0292

PSU = Corsair VX550W 550W

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11130AC9786

HARD DRIVE = Western Digital 320GB SATA

http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15080DR0838
That's pretty much everything important. I've used the same heatsink+fan combo which came with the Quad Core. Although I removed the thermal paste which was already on it and applied Arctic Silver for better efficiency.

One important thing is that I've done a test built of these specs while I was in Canada, where voltage was 110-120 and everything ran fine. I am now in Pakistan, where voltage is 220-240, and upon powering up the test build everything also ran fine as the Corsair PSU automatically converted from 110 to 240 (one of the features it has DUE to which I bought it in the first place).
Like I said everything ran fine for a few hours until it completely died. Now when I press the power button, the power LED comes on for a second or two and then just dies. Nothing powers up!Quote

the Corsair PSU automatically converted from 110 to 240 (one of the features it has due to which I bought it in the first place).

Quote

the Corsair PSU automatically converted from 110 to 240 (one of the features it has due to which I bought it in the first place).

Could very well be the issue...
Swap another borrowed PSU in there to find out...
Double check the Q6600 heatsink is firmly seated...they are a pain.

Also double check the 4 pin ATX MBoard power clip has not come loose.

Best remote shutdown for home network?

My PC in the barn has more stuff. So on cold winter nights I get in to it om my home LAN with the warmth of my house PC. Before I go to bed I would like to turn on the PC in the barn, but I don't want to walk 100 yards in my pajamas. What would be a sure way to shut it off from in the house. (No I won't throw the circus breaker. I mean shut it down the right way.)
Searching this forum the shutdown command seems to not always work. Why?
Any suggestions? You can remote shutdown a computer on the same lan quite easily - windows XP has a built in app for that.

click start > run
type in shutdown /i
click ADD and then type in the name of the computer that you wish to shut down.
you can find this out my going start > my network places > view workgroup computers.
then click OK, set your options and OK again
Your other computer is now shutting down
Thank you. It almost works.
It did not shut on the remote XP PC on the LAN.
But no problem on either PC directly.
There maybe a SECURITY issue.
I will play with is some more.OK

This usually works for me, but it may be because at some POINT I changed something.
The other method I know is a longer one, it requires the account on the other end to have a password on an administrative account. not the administrator account, just an account with administrative rights.

This method is using remote desktop to access it and trigger the shutdown command.

First go to your barn machine and right click my computer on the start menu and select properties.

Click the remote tab and make sure the "allow remote connections to this computer" is ticked.

click OK then go back to your main computer.

Now this is set up, you only ever have to go out to the barn to turn it on

when you want to shut it down, simply go:

Start > all programs > accessories > remote desktop connection (this is on XP SP3)

OR

Start > all programs > accessories > communication > remote desktop connection (this is for versions of XP under SP3)

type in the name of the computer in the barn you used for the shutdown command, and push connect.

You should now be presented with a login box.

Type in the user name and password of the user account on the barn computer.

once logged in, you cannot directly use the "shut down" button, it says DISCONNECT instead.

instead click start > windows security (which just opens the task manager)

then you can simply just select 'Turn Off' from the shut down menu

Hope this one works this time, It seems harder but it isn't really



OK. Thanks for the help. I plan to try that this weekend.Okay will keep watch.

...on primary master. Does this mean that my hard drive is GOING to fail? Would replacing the hard drive fix this problem?

Thanks in advance.
~J

Edit: I guess I should let you know that I am helping a friend out with this computer, and it is not in warranty (I do not believe). Also, it is running on Win XP Professional. Thanks.Yes.
Failure is imminent...
You may have a few weeks or you may have a few hours.
Stop using the machine and decide how you are going to backup the DATA and replace the drive.So is it as easy as taking out the bad HDD and replacing it with a new one?

I found this one over at newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148262Actually if the old drive will run more than an hour you can use the Seagate tools to "clone" the old drive to the new one...
Then you simply disconnect the old one ....set the new one as the boot drive and you should be good to go...

You haven't mentioned if the old drive is a SATA or IDE...Ooooh.... good question. I think I remember seeing something about IDE on the boot menu. I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks for bringing this to my attention (still a noob).So if the HDD I am replacing is an IDE (WDC-WD800JB-00ETA0), should I just replace it with another IDE drive or should I be looking into something different?

Thanks.An IDE drive would do fine and would most likely provide the best compatability.

Simply set the new drive up as slave and clone the drive as patio said - no losses.

Once it is CLONED, remove the old drive and keep for pulling apart later.

Set the new one as master and away you go

Then when you have some SPARE time, pull the old drive apart for the magnets and anything ELSE you want out of there
(it is also fun to see just how fast it actually spins! )

Great to hear that

Oh and by the way, Welcome to COMPUTER HOPE

Quote

YOU haven't been paying attention to my descriptions. My SATA drive is not physically buggy, only the OS installed on it is. I

IDE that I can later clone onto my currently working but very buggy SATA drive

My SATA drive is not physically buggy, only the OS installed on it is.

Recently i wanna got a new inspiron 6000 notebook battery , but my DELL book is a secondhanded ONE and i don't know whether the battery is original , when i search dell inspiron 6000 battery , the all display dell battery codes 310-6321 and 310-6322 like this store (http://www.sales-battery.com/laptop-batteries/dell-inspiron-6000.htm), i just WANT to know which one should i pick up, 310-6322 or 310-6321 ? or they are just the same for my laptop? tks.asloglines,http://www.laptopbatteryweb.com/dell-inspiron-6000.htm
truenorth

hi i have laptop and desktop and 1 adsl conection now how do i conect BOUTH computers on 1 adsl conection
thanks These are the general ways two PCs use one DSL connection.
1. This DSL modem is also a router with wireless.
2. Or, a router is installed alter the DSL modem.
3. A tireless device is installed on the PC and "bridged."

My favorite is #1. Cost me $80, but it eliminated all the hassle.
Number 2 is fair, but some routers are have a fussy setup.
Number 3 is the cheap way. If you already have two wireless things.
But trying to understand how to do the bridge TAKES over a day.
Unless you follow instructions, which is emotionally difficult for me!


the modem is d-link but i thing it has no wiralesWho is your DSL provider?
What model is the D-link? If it has places in the back to plug in more computers it is a router. If it has a rubber ducky, it is also wireless.
If it is only a modem, it has just power, phone and one network plugs.

For awhile I use a D-Link router with a Motorola modem and it worked most of the time.it is maxadsl from t-home and there are no more conections just onehttp://www.t-home.mk/en/cpe/ured.asp?z=725&idp=541 the specificationsHey, that almost looks like my old DI-524 Wilress router.
You might find a good USED one on eBay for uner $30. But you take a chance that it may not be very good.
I got one off of eBay. Mine had a problem with the antenna. It is broken, yet it still was good at close range.
But there should not be a problem using other brands. I have used combinations of DSL modems and routers and was able to get them to work together.so u r saing that i must bye a wireles routher if i want to conect laptop and desktop on same adsl conection If you wish to not use a router, then at lest one of your computers has another network device that can talk to the other computer.
As I recall, a Hub after a modem does NOT work.
Examples:
1. The laptop has just a wireless connnection. The Desktop has both a wireless and a wired Ethernet.
2. The Laptop has both Ethernet and Wireless. The Desktop has wireless.
3. Both machines have more that one type of connection.

The idea is that you can not simply 'split' the cable coming out of the modem like you can a telephone connection. They don't work that way. One of the machine has to have another network device. The computer with the two network devices must be running Windows XP and the two CONNECTIONS must be bridged.
Maybe a tutorial and some pictures will help. Here is one of the best, simple articles about the XP network bridge.

http://www.homenethelp.com/web/howto/windows-xp-bridge.asp

Look at that a tell me what you think.
With my limited TOLERANCE for stress,
I stopped doing this
several months ago.

It just quit scrolling. I can't find the place to fix it. I go:
start/control panel/mouse/device settings
all there is is buttons settings. I used to get a picture of the PAD and adjustments for the EDGES.

Vista business
TOSHIBA laptop x305 q705
Jim
more INFO:
I just found @ start/control panel/mouse
it identifies as standard pointing device instead of synaptics touchpad.
more info"
I went to Toshiba support SITE and looked at the drivers listed. there was one named "alps touchpad 27773a".
I downloaded and installed that and now the scroll works!
I don't know why. I'm pretty sure I have the Synaptics touchpad.
JimSounds like the driver was removed or was damaged somehow.

Problem gone?It seems to work fine!
When I run my autocad, it even scrolls side to side!
JimMy touchpad just switched itself back to "standard pointing device" and does not scroll anymore.
How can it change like that by itself? I fixed it before by downloading a driver for ALPS touch pad. I shouldn't have to just keep downloading drivers!
JimOK I rolled back the driver and now it works again. Now it says it's an alps pointer again!

Installed two sticks - one Gig each - for a total of 2Gig
Made sure that it was installed correctly but still doesn't work. Tried both seperatly in each slot and it will work fine.
But both of them TOGETHER no luck
E-Machine w6409 3.0 Ghz/800 Mhz/fsb/1M l2 cache
processor is 531
That is pretty MUCH all I know. I could find out more if you need me to. PLEASE HELP.
ThanksAre both of the memory stick exacly the same because that could be a reason or if your mother board doesn't support any more than 1gb of ram?

Have a read of your mother board manual and SEE what it SAYS on ram installation.

Tan_Zagot the sticks from tiger direct- they said the sticks were 100%match for my COMPUTER & they said max gig was2
So it will still boot with both sticks in?

I have and E machine with 3400+64amd athlon processor, 100gb hard drive,dvd+/rw, 512mb.

I recently did a complete reinstall and it worked great until about 2 WEEKS AGO when I SUSPECT that it downloaded those service PACKS that cause problems like this. I oculd be wrong on that.

Anyway it will play videos good at startup for about an hour then if you go back to play another one no sound.

Thanks for any helpWhat Operating System?

Does it happen all the time?

Does it happen to the same files, or does this happen to any video?Windows xp, it affects all videos, it does it everytime.What media player are you using?

What do you have to do to get the sound back?

Can you try and see if the problem still happens with VLC Media Player:
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.html

I have several devices that I want to hook up to 2 PCs that are a few feet apart. I RATHER not get into HOME networking because it seems rather hard and I don't think all of my devices would be compatible.

So can you share them or would I have to plug the hub into the computer I wish to use every time?USB only supports 1 host per device.

there is no way to connect a USB device to two computers simultaneously.ok thanksThough you CAN buy some little USB devices that ACT like a network...still just like building a network though lol.

You might want to reconsider, networking is easy and all you would need at this point is a crossover calbe of 2 meters, which is around about $5 NZ Dollars so ~ $7-$8 US dollarsI want to share a scanner, a PRINTER, and a backup hard drive, maybe more in the future. Is this possible through home networking?Yes.

Every so often I get the BSOD for Multiple_IRP_Complete_Requests.

Today when I got it, I was able to write down the information, which included

0X00000044 (0X8786C008, 0X00000E7A, 0X00000000, 0X00000000)

I have no idea what most of that means, but from searching for solutions on the Internet it appears that it is related to drivers.

I haven't found any yellow caution marks in the Device Manager (including with hidden devices displayed).

The most RECENT device I have connected is an old HP DeskJet 932C printer. The HP site says that they don't have a driver for that printer for Vista, but that Vista has a basic driver so that the printer can be used.

Is there much of a possibility that the lack of a full DeskJet 932C driver for Vista could be causing the problem?

I suppose I could test it by removing the printer, but the BSOD occurs randomly (though always within 15 or 20 minutes of startup), so I WOULD probably have to leave it disconnected for a month to see if the problem recurred. Accordingly, I was wondering if anyone had some insight as to how much of a possibility there was of the semi-compatible printer being the problem.

Vista Ultimate, fully updated
Core2 Duo 2.53 GHz
4.0 G RAM
GeForce 8800 GT (1 G memory)
Plenty of cooling
All of the components are RELATIVELY new.
I have tried to make sure that all drivers are updated (graphics card, etc.).
BIOS is also up to date. (I got the BSOD both before and after I updated BIOS.)

I'm kind of hoping that the printer is the problem for two reasons: 1) I would be able to resolve the issue FAIRLY easily, and 2) I would have an excuse to get a new printer.

Thanks.

ReedThere's a Hotfix:

Here Ya Go...

HECK don't tell the Wife and grab a new printer anyway... Thanks for the reply.

Does that hotfix apply to cases in which the BSOD appears even when the computer isn't waking from sleep or hibernation?According to the documentation i couldn't tell as it is vague...but applying it probably will do no harm and may fix the issue.Hmmmm. I tried to install it, but I got a message saying that it didn't apply to my system. I selected the one for Vista 32-bit, so I'm not sure what that means, unless I already have it installed or something.

Do you think that the old printer (and no driver from HP for Vista) could be causing the conflict?

A few days ago, I had a power bump at my house. The next day I tried to start my computer and all I get is a bright white screen on my monitor. I tried my monitor on another computer and it works fine. Does ANYONE have some information to HELP me with this problem. ThanksDoes the computer seem like there is any activity at boot...Hard DRIVE activity etc? Might be a blown video card if the system SEEMS like it is booting up and all you see if white screen with no splash screen that says the manufacturers name like HP etc. If this system DOESNT have a video card if it is integrated, you can install a video card and see if you get different results.Yes, it does sound as if the hard drive is being accessed, but the monitor just stays white, no change at all.

i weas wondering if i would be better off with a dual core, are a quad core.
i have noticed that the duals are usually like 3ghz and the quads are like 2.4's or 2.6
i mostly play cod 4 but would like to play the new call of duty, and cyriss.
any help would be appreciatedBudget ? ?$1,500We're gonna have fun with this one...
Calum hasn't had this much bread to spend in awhile...
Be patient.
Few more questions for you, kajun, if you don't mind, and welcome to the forums.

Do you need a keyboard, mouse, monitor, operating system, or anything else other than the actual computer itself?
I'm assuming you're in the US but could you PLEASE confirm that, to make sure we're looking at the right site(s)?
Will you be building your own computer? Building your own will give you much more flexibility, and should work out cheaper, but on the other hand it of course will take a little more time and effort, plus you need to know what you're doing. It's not as hard as you may think, though, so certainly solvating to look into - I almost always recommend building your own if you can over buying a pre-built computer. Even if you can't build your own, or don't feel comfortable doing so, do you know anyone or anywhere that would do it for you?

Looking forward to getting my teeth into this one Ok Patio here goes, yes im in the US, i do need a monitor,& operating system. I can pick up a mouse, and a key board,
I would love to build my own system but have read to many horror stories, I have two mane questions.
(1) just wondering to go with a quad or duo, AMD or INTEL.
(2) Why woul some one run more than 1 video card, & how much ram do I realy need.
(3)I have a GeForce 8400, with 528 mb of ram built in, not sure if its shared or dedicated, Its way better than the intergrated video card that came with the comp. but havent noticed anything dramatic could be my monitor i guess.

i will probably buy a computor out of a store, or online were u order what u want .
just not sure what i want, or need.

THANKS FOR ANY HELP U CAN OFFER.
1) It all depends on what's available at the time. Right now, for your needs a fast dual core would be best. I'd recommend a quad core however, because newer games and apps will take advantage of the extra cores. I'm an Intel fan at the minute, but if AMD had soemthing better, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it, I'm not biased.
2) More than one video card is useful for extra performance. ATI's Crossfire allows you to use more than one ATI card together to get extra performance, if supported by the game. Nvidia's SLI allows the same with identical Nvidia cards. How much RAM you need depends on the operating system you get, and some other factors. I'd recommend 4GB at the minute.
3) Not sure if that's a question or just a statement, but that card is extremely weak for gaming so you'd see a huge jump in performance from a decent card.

Are you going to build your own computer or buy a pre-built one?I HAVE HEARD TO MANY HORROR STORIES ABOUT BUILDING YOUR OWN COM. SO I WILL PROBABLY BUY 1 OR ORDER ONE ON LINE. HOW ABOUT VIDEO CARD GE FORCE OR ATI. AND WHAT VIDEO CARD WOULD YOU RECOMEND.

A LITTLE HISTORY OF ME AND COMPUTORS THIS IS MY SECOND COMP. FIRST A HP.AMD PROCESSOR SMALL MAYBE 1.6 GHZ INTERGRATED VIDEO CARD, UPGRADED RAM TO 512, BOUGHT A PCI GE FORCE CARD CHEAP HELPED,80 GIG HD DRIVE WAS NOT PLAYING ONLIE GAMES @ THE TIME.

SECOND COMP. E MACHINE 512 GIG RAM UPGRADED TO 2 GIGS,INTERGRADED VIDEO CARD, UP GRADED TO GEFORCE 8400 512, AMD 64 ATHOLON, 3200B 160 HD DRIVE, MONITOR'S ABOUT 4OR 5 YEARS OLD A VPR MATRIX17''WINDOWS XP SERVICE PAC 2

QUESTION SHOULD I GET XP OR ISIT GOING TO HAVE TO BE VISTAQuote from: kajun on January 09, 2009, 08:32:42 AM

I HAVE HEARD TO MANY HORROR STORIES ABOUT BUILDING YOUR OWN COM. SO I WILL PROBABLY BUY 1 OR ORDER ONE ON LINE. HOW ABOUT VIDEO CARD GE FORCE OR ATI. AND WHAT VIDEO CARD WOULD YOU RECOMEND.

Hello Sir,

I am using xp os. And my mother board MODEL is intel pga478B.
Once when I started from my pc a beep sound was coming continuos. When I REMOVED a small speaker which was beside cmos battery then from that time a single beep is still coming from then my pc and it is not starting. When ever I START cpu both fans work properly but in starting a beep sound comes. I tried to solve this PROBLEM by putting a new ram . Even I checked by putting ram in different slot. I even removed fan and processor. I even changed the battery and putted another cmos battery of another cpu. And cleaned all the dust from my mother board. But still I am not able to solve my problem . Please help me to start my pc.


Regards,

anjeep

Try to remove all parts not needed modem,sound card any USB that is hooked up,then try to boot.What does your MBoard manual say in regard to beep codes ? ?
One long beep is usually a RAM issue...
Do you have the correct RAM ? ? All RAM is not the same...I did according said by you. (i.e : i removed all the parts of the cpu. I removed the
mbd aside. Then i only connected powersupply and ram to my mbd. And i started it.
But still in starting once beep sound is coming. I tried by changing the slots and also by changing the ram. but i was not able to stop that beep sound. So please give me a solution. How should i make it ok.

Regards,

anjeepQuote from: patio on January 06, 2009, 09:33:46 AM

What does your MBoard manual say in regard to beep codes ? ?
One long beep is usually a RAM issue...
Do you have the correct RAM ? ? All RAM is not the same...

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on January 09, 2009, 07:26:27 AM

That sounds like your hard drive.

I need to be 100% sure what it is.

I could very well be totally off base here BUT= I have the impression (going back to the poster's comments in the 1st few posts) that there is a problem with the circumstances of the original purchase and the potential for return/warranty issues. Sure hope I'm wrong.truenorth

A while after I bought my MSI VR610 laptop, it started rattling and making really loud, painful noises (it sounds like it's coming from the fans that are tilted a bit). I took this laptop to the computer store where I bought it, the tech guy kept it in his basement for three weeks and didn't even touch it, saying he 'fixed' it, which makes me a very unsatisfied customer.

We do not know what type of store this was

how exactly the OP "knows" that "the tech guy" kept the laptop in his basement for 3 weeks without doing anything.

I ran with it frequently

hi
I recently reinstalled xp onto my laptop.
I thought that I had put the correct keyboard designation in.
How do I change the designation? it is currently american. i need to change to uk
It was originally OK and I think I must have left a KEY STRIKE change in who knows.

[emailprotected] key is where the" should be and vice versa.
I knew how to do it on WINDOWS but not xp
thankyouControl Panel/Regional and Language options...thankyouAnytime.

I have been told by HP that their hard drives have a factory installed BOOTABLE sector that can't be copied or cloned. They say I must use my recovery DISK and build the new drive I wish to install by reinstalling all programs and updates. This is a real pain, of course. I am trying to find if any cloning software will get around this. If not, perhaps some software I could use to backup my original drives' programs and files, then restore them when I install the new drive. HP puts a basic Win X/P operating SYSTEM back onto the new drive with the drivers needed for the computer with the recovery disk. (HP also puts two partitions on their drives. One is for recovery, and one is the bootable partition with the operating system. HP does not have any software to copy their drives.)I have used Norton Ghost 2003 to Ghost HP systems with the Recovery Partition D: and had no problems. When creating the image I select both C: and D: and it creates a Ghost Image of it all. Never had any problems restoring back from Ghost either. This image however will only restore to the same exact computer. Some people try to use the images to clone and create a similar box. Sometimes it works, but most of the time unelss the exact same build it will crash with BLUE screen.I've never had an issue imaging/restoring an HP machine.I tried using WESTERN Digital's software called Data Lifeguard Tools. It copied both partitions. I compaired the drives, and they look the same, yet the new one will not boot. I guess I could try Norton Ghost, however is Acronis True Image better, or should I try a free program first? Again I have been communicating a lot with HP about this. They continue to claim it's impossible. My computer is a Compaq/HP Presario SR1130NX. The drive is 160G. Thanks.You are right, problem solved. I downloaded a trial copy of Acronis True Image and it worked fine. Say, did you get back to HP? It would be helpful to know if they will stick to their story. Do you think the y are ignorant? Or did they outright mislead you?
Thanks for sharing. I did get back to them. They thanked me for resolving this issue, but of course never admitted they were in error. I think they were ignorant. I also suspect that English is a second language to them after trying to tell them what my problem was to begin with.

I've had my desktop for a little over a year and a half, and I usually leave it on overnight UNLESS I'll be gone more than a day. I turned off the monitor before I went to bed last night (it was working fine) and then when I woke up this morning, I turned on the monitor and it said "no signal" and went to standby. I restarted the computer a few times, to no prevail. I cleaned off the fans and the inside of the CASE, but still nothing.

Once I put it all back together, I realized that when I plugged in my wireless USB mouse, the light flickered GREEN then went out (this happened in all 6 of the USB plugs, or whatever you call them). The light stays on when I plug it into my laptop, so I know my mouse isn't the problem.

The computer itself looks like it's working. The lights are on, the fans are going. It seems to me like the computer just won't recognize any hardware I plug into it. Has anyone heard of this kind of thing before?

I use Windows XP. My motherboard is an ASUS P5N32-SLI Premium with wi-fi. My memory is 2GB DDR2 Twin2X. Let me know if you want to know any other specs.

Thank you so much,
AndreaYes. That happens. Even other brands can do that. Even some of the best Intel boards can do that. I have one like that. I have to turn it on and off several times with an EXTERNAL power strip. The monitor also. I have to turn it on and off. It seems they don't like each other. So I just do the ton and off routine until they get together. Once they are back on track they stay for awhile.

Are COMPUTERS becoming more like People?

Hi a few days ago i took a harddrive out of my old computer and PUT it in my better 1 i dont reli no much about computers but i thought what harm could it do. When i finaly got back and finished puting the computer back togethor it would not display anything on the screen , i dont know if its my graphics card or what but if ANYONE has any tips could u please help. Btw i tried a diferent monitor and no luck. So it's the old computer that has the problem?
How many hard drives did the old computer have?
Have you checked your jumper settings?
While you were in there you may have unseated your graphics card. Take it out and reseat it. Then do the same with your RAM modules.
Do you hear any beeps when you start your computer up?If that hard drive has a VERSION of Windows on it that's newer than WinME then you have answered your own question...
It probably won't boot as it's looking for the hardware from the machine Windows was installed on.
As long as you haven't forced the issue your hardware is probably fine,
Wipe the drive and use it as a slave drive for EXTRA storage.Yes its quite an old dell i put old drive back in and still will not display anything it does not make any noise and im quite worried. All the fans the disc drives open i can hear sound from the hardrive and i know it is not the processor becuase i felt it warm up with a tip sum1 gave me. i realy desperate now as im new to all this can sum1 tell me how to clear the jumper settings or what they r lol
Something's not clear here : Did you or did you not have a display in the old Dell ?
Spinning fans mean very little...correct voltages mean quite a lot more.
Don't start sweating. Give a bit more details as to the age and specs of the mobo.
Did you get any beeps .
In the mean time , get a white eraser and gently rub the contacts of the ram,
video card and Hard drive [ rub in the direction as if cleaning a comb -not across ].
Again .. A-White -Eraser. Blow out the slots and reseat firmly the Videocard and Ram . We'll brainstorm the problem. Put the original drive back into the machine you are fooling with and it should boot properly...the computer is a dell dimension 4550 i put the old drive back in and itr didnt work still , did not hear any beeps or sounds and stilll cant ?

Hi everyone. I figured I should be as detailed as possible with what I did because I'm not sure of the actual issue.

I purchased some new RAM the other day and to my dismay it wasn't working properly despite being within my motherboard's specifications. It was noted, but for whatever REASON my computer RAN far more slowly with it installed.

I bought my motherboard quite a while ago and I noticed that there had been quite a few firmware updates since then, one of which sounded to address my RAM problems.

Here's the site, I downloaded the most recent one:

http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=downloaddetail&type=bios&maincat_no=1&prod_no=1141

I created a DOS boot disc, booted in and ran the software. I followed instructions here since my BIOS was AMI's design:

http://www.ami.com/support/bios.cfm

I did the most basic setup they showed: AFUDOS ROMFILE.ROM /P /C, replacing ROMFILE.ROM with the bios file I was given.

This ran through several steps, one of which I noted was NVIDIA related. I have a NVIDIA-based motherboard, so this didn't seem odd to me.

I reset the computer after this and the RAM was no longer a problem. The computer booted quickly again with no problems.

Unfortunately I got a message once Vista loaded that stated my ATI drivers couldn't be found or weren't working properly. I tried uninstalling what I had, installing the latest drivers and restarting. I did get a pop-up at the bottom telling me my Radeon 3870 HD was installed... But it still didn't affect any of my software. I got the error message again too.

I uninstalled everything again. I ran drivercleaner.net, which took a while but completely erased any reference to ATI on my computer. I restarted and this time I did not get the message. My system properties said I was now running the generic VGA display.

So I reinstalled the ATI drivers again and restarted. I started getting the ATI error again.

I'm not sure what to do next. Part of my concern is that the BIOS I downloaded also flashed my ATI card, but that seems kind of bizarre. If that happened, why would it show up as a Radeon HD 3870? I'd assume I'd not get a picture at all.

Here's my computer setup:

Windows Vista X64, SP1
6 GB RAM
Intel Core 2 Duo, 2.4 ghz
MSI P6N SLI Motherboard
Diamond Radeon 3870 HD, 512MB DD4

I have downloaded the BIOS for my card, but I'm not about to touch that if it's not the problem.

I'm honestly not sure what to do to get it to work. Does anyone have any IDEAS?

Thanks!

UPDATE:

Well I removed everything yet another time... This time I decided to try Windows Update, which offered some ATI drivers that were labeled as "ASUS" for some reason. I figured what the heck and gave it a shot.

That worked, everything is fine now.

I also found how that the latest ATI catalyst (8.12) apparently doesn't play well with Vista and over 3 GBs of RAM. People with similar setups were getting the same issue I was, but they had luck installing 8.11 instead. I hope ATI fixes that soon!

My DVD drive is not being recognised by my computer.

I deleted the upper and lower registry and it still does not work.

It was working before and then I had to use system restore and since then the DVD does not work.

The drives have power.

The BIOS is on auto.

When compter boots Secondary Master and Slave say none.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.If the BIOS does not see it then check tour cable connections...
Otherwise the drive is probably dead.I should also mention that my CD player is also not being recognised.If they were on the same IDE cable that would confirm EITHER an unhooked/bad cable or yout secondary IDE channel on the MBoard is bad,

Replace the cable
What happened prior to this ? ?What happened was that I unselected all my startup programs and services in msconfig. After I did this both the CD and DVD drives were not being detected by my computer. I tried to use system restore but it did not work.I should also add that I reselcted all my startup programs and services, and still does not work.Quote from: vignatius on January 10, 2009, 01:14:35 PM

What happened was that I unselected all my startup programs and services in msconfig. After I did this both the CD and DVD drives were not being detected by my computer. I tried to use system restore but it did not work.

I am currently having a problem.

This all started about a month ago when I decided to get a new computer. I got a Biostar GF7050V-M7 SE motherboard and a Intel 9300 processor as a package deal. I also got 2 sticks 2 GB ram and a GEFORCE 8800GT video card. I got everything together, installed it in my old case, and it worked beautifully, for about 3 hours.

My computer then randomly reset. At first I thought it was the memory, but the memory CHECK turned up clean. The next time it reset I let windows do the little problem report thing. The error it gave me said that my motherboard did not support my processor, and this was causing crashes. I found this odd because my motherboard and processor were sold as part of a package deal, but sure enough when I checked ( http://www.biostar-usa.com/app/en-us/mb/cpu_support.php?S_ID=356 ) my CPU wasn't supported. I sent an angry email to the company that sold the two together as a package, and they never got back to me (no surprise).

So, I decided to buy another motherboard that would support my CPU, and I bought the Biostar G31-M7 TE ( http://www.biostar-usa.com/app/en-us/mb/content.php?S_ID=363 ). Its basically the same thing as my last motherboard in that it takes the same ram, video card, ETC. The only difference is that this one would support the Intel 9300 processor.

After waiting a week for delivery, I uninstalled my old motherboard, put it back in the box, and installed my new motherboard. I then HIT the power button and the fans turned on, the LEDs on my case lit up, and everything looked fine. But my monitor didnt display anything, the laser pointer on my mouse didnt light up, and my keyboard was unresponsive. Normally when you hit the Caps lock key a little LED on the keyboard turns on; this didnt happen. So, I uninstalled my new Biostar G31-M7 TE motherboard, and reinstalled my old Biostar GF7050V-M7 SE motherboard. Sure enough it booted up fine. I again swapped back to the 'new' motherboard and it didnt work, then switched back to the old one and it started working. I came to the conclusion that I was sent a bad motherboard. So, I boxed it up, and sent it back for a replacement. I haven't used my desktop since then because I kept getting annoyed with the crashes and decided to stick to my laptop until I got the replacement motherboard.

Finally, yesterday got a replacement in the mail. I once again uninstalled my old Biostar GF7050V-M7 SE motherboard and installed my new Biostar G31-M7 TE motherboard. And again the same thing happened. The LEDs on my case turned on, the fans spun up, but nothing was displayed on screen. My laser mouse didnt light up, and my keyboard didnt get power either. Highly annoyed I took out my 'new' Biostar G31-M7 TE motherboard and reinstalled my old Biostar GF7050V-M7 SE motherboard. But this time, the same problem happened again. The lights turn on, the fan spins up, but nothing gets displayed on my monitor and my mouse and keyboard dont turn on.

So unless both of the motherboards I have been sent were duds, and my old motherboard just failed, I dont think this is the problem. It just seemed to fail, then work, then fail, then work, then fail again. And this time I cant get it to work again. I talked to a friend who had the exact same error, and he told me that he just jiggled the power cable on the back of his hard drive and that worked. I tried the same with no success. My only guess is that I have some short in my power supply that is caused by a loose cable, resulting in erratic power delivery. But it seems to me that a bad power supply would just not work at all, it wouldnt spin up the fans and hard drives, and turn on the LEDs, but not provide power to the mouse. I came to ask if anybody here has experienced this sort of problem, and what you might do to fix it. Is it really my power supply that is the problem, or am I missing something?Even if the fans ect do work it is still possible that it is the power supply. Is the memory RIGHT for the board?Have you tried using only the basic components,cpu, heatsink with fan,v card hooked up to monitor,1 stick of ram, leaving your dvd cdrom ,floppy,power disconnected. with this basic component set up turn on & see if it posts.Yes, I tried it with just the Motherboard, cpu, fan, and monitor. I tried both the graphics card, and the motherboard's built in graphics card. Same result.

I dont think the memory is the problem because it was working with my old motherboard only 2 weeks ago, where as now nothing works.Well you have done some home work, you have to move on by getting hold of a power supply.Motherboard standoffs a;; in place ? ?
Was thermal paste applied correctly ? ?
Is this a new or used PSU ? ?
4 pin ATX power plug connected to the MBoard ?
Same with the vid card ?

What brand and wattage is this PSU ?

Hey everyone,
I recently installed a RAM upgrade in my girlfriends MOM's computer. She was trying to run XP with only 256M of PC 2700 DDR and it was barely scraping along. So I got a 512M of PC 3200 DDR and it seemed to be working fine, however, the computer keeps restarting itself after 10 minutes or so. Any ideas on how to fix the problem? or should I just get a 2700 chip instead? Thanks! So it starts to RESTART after you've had it on for about ten minutes?
I WOULD suspect it to be a problem with overheating.
You may have knocked something loose while you were in the case.
Open it back up and MAKE sure all of your fans are plugged in and you don't have any wires in the way of the heatsink's fan.
While your in there, blow it out with some compressed air.Quote from: gauvinma on January 10, 2009, 12:10:13 AM

She was trying to run XP with only 256M of PC 2700 DDR and it was barely scraping along.

I am getting a netbook with LINUX loaded and my main PC runs on Windows XP. My USB flash drive MANUAL says it only works on Windows, is there any way to GET this flashdrive to work on Linux. If not is is there a flash drive that will work on both op sys.
Secondly OpenOffice on Windows and Linux, are they compatabile? Not only can you use the USB flash drive with Linux, you can install Linux on it and run it off that.It should be compatible. Not sure.

As for Open Office, yes.
http://download.openoffice.org/other.html#en-US