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Will my AMD Athlon X2 4200+ choke an 8800GT if i get it? In other words, will my processor slow down my 8800GT? Therefor, show a decrease in performance.In games where your system is pushed to the limits, for example Crysis, and games that are CPU dependent, for example Supreme Commander, your CPU will bottleneck your graphics card.
The 8800GT is a FAIRLY high end card, whilst the 4200+ is a fairly low end CPU.Can i GIVE you a list of games and tell me if they will be bottlenecked?
-Bioshock
-CS: Source
-Battlefield 2
-Lost Planet
-Gears of War
-Call of Duty 4
-Company of Heroes

Which ones do i have to worry about, and which ones do i not have to worry so much about.
(These games i either already have, or i am thinkin about getting.)
I think you should be OK for those games, but you would EXPERIENCE better performance with a faster CPU.
Do you already have that Athlon, or are you thinking about buying it?yah, i got an Athlon 4200+, but my mobo has a the socket type AM2, so i can UPGRADE it easily if needed.I was going to advise you purchase a different CPU if possible.
As it is, save the CASH and buy a 775 motherboard and a Core 2 Duo CPU when you can, you'll definitely see the difference.i was acually thinking of getting a AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ Brisbane 2.6GHz Black edition because it overlcocks sooo well. People can easily overclock it to 3GHz and some even higher. This thing only costs $100. It is better than $200 core 2 duo'sTrue.
However, the ~£40 (I think around $80 maybe?) E2140 can be overclocked to an easy 3GHz too, and higher up models can go further for an even better performance boost.
In the end it's up to you, I agree that it is more cost effective to stick with the motherboard you have and just upgrade the CPU, however you will see better performance with a 775 mobo and C2D CPU.

Brand: Other Computer
OS: Windows XP
RAM: 512MB-1GB
CPU: AMD Other
Type: Laptop
Question: When I try to power up my laptop, I get a message saying operating system not found, and when I try to reinstall windows xp, I get a message saying that windows does not detect my hard drive. How can I fix this problem? Any and all help would be deeply appreciated
you will need a new harddrive. you can replace it yourself if you are comfortable dissecting your laptop, or you can send it to a computer SHOP. That message alone does not mean the Hard Disk Drive is bad, altho likely. Laptops are very complicated to work on if you have NEVER done it before. I would not rush into replacing the HDD before TROUBLESHOOTING further.

You could try a boot device that will plug into a USB port for some further troubleshooting. Such as a CF (compact flash) card reader and the 512Mb-2Gb compact flash card. Then you should be able to boot CMOS and set 1st boot to other or USB, depending on your choices. Also if you did not do this before, when trying to reload WINXP, then go back into CMOS & set 1st boot to CDROM and try to re-install WINXP from your CD.

Good Luck.



you may also check in the cmos to see if your hard drive is detected. there should be a setting to automatically detect hard drives. Hard to IMAGINE it would need to be change if it has been working. but your drive should be listed unless it has become unplugged, it may infact be bad, it happens! Thanks for all the help, I am going to take it into a computer repair shop. Thanks again for the help.

I ordered myself some PARTS and built a brand spanking new computer last night, but when I hooked it up and pressed my POWER button, it all turned on and then all stopped in about as much time as it takes to blink. Here are some of my specs.

Motherboard: MSI P6N SLI Platinum
Power Supply: Rosewill RD600N 12V 600W
Video Card: MSI NX8600GT Twin Turbo
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 ghz

I haven't put a computer together in a while, so I can't really think of what my problem might be. I'm thinking maybe my power supply just doesn't have enough juice to get everything GOING. I really need a second opinion here.Thermal Compound ?

All MBoard standoffs in place ?

New or used PSU ?in addition to what patio has said, make sure that all your connections are correct and secure.

a 600w PSU should be more then enough to power your comp, however, we do not know if it is faulty or not.Yeah, I'd be interested in this answer also. I have two mb's with this problem, the fan bumps and thats about it. I have a power supply tester and they test ok. I ENDED up buying a new mb and processor which WORKED, but still i cannot figure out what causes this problem of not running.

I have a GeForce 6800gt 256mb. After installing RECENT drivers found out the card is running at 80C while my CPU is at 25C. For a NOVICE AT THIS please TELL me the BEST way to fix this problem. Did not OPEN the case but did clean all the exhaust fans in the case. Thanx.
a 6800gt should not be running that hot. you will have to open up your computer to CHECK that the fan on the card is spinning and that it is clean.

hi,

i need the re-assembly instructions for 2 Microsoft Natural Keyboard Elites which i took apart with the INTENTION of FIXING. they have proved very hard for me to put back together, and i have tried several times but the PIECES never align correctly.

i bought them 8 years apart, and they look a little different inside. THEREFORE, i think i need 2 different sets of re-assembly instructions. mainly, i don't know how to get that 1" X 2" circuit board below the spacebar and underneath the wrist-rest back in.

the first was bought in 1999 with my Gateway GP6-350 system. it has 2 barcode stickers on the underside:
1st sticker: M/N: E0640/PS2; Product ID 83718-OEM-5636503-29061
2nd sticker: Gateway P/N 7001085; S/N: 8371825636503

the second was bought in 2007 in a store. it has 1 barcode sticker on the underside:
KU-0045; Product ID: 71305-545-6896283-10701

there are other codes on the warning stickers, and maybe other small stickers. i listed the ONES that seemed important.

meanwhile, i have emailed Microsoft (don't know if i got the correct email), though i'm not sure they give this info out. maybe someone out there has a blueprint of sorts?

thanks.



You can get new keyboard for under TEN BUCKS: hereQuote from: Broni on January 19, 2008, 08:21:08 PM

You can get new keyboard for under TEN BUCKS: here

Hey, I've got a QUESTION. My girlfriend has a HP dv8000, I believe is the specific type computer.

Anyhow, she has a black dot on the screen. It's not a pressure bruise, like it's just one of the LCD lights burnt out. So, I can always take a picutre of the screen and upload it and need be, but it's just a small black dot that no MATTER what window or the mouse or what's over it, it stays there.

My question I guess is, if this is the case, is there anything that can be done to fix it without having to take it in to some store and shell out 8 million dollars to have them look at it, assess it, order some part, fix it, then the labor costs of that as well.It sounds like the screen got a dead pixel.
This is not something you can fix yourself.
I suggest you CHECK whether HP got a dead pixel warranty.
If not she will either have to live with it or GET the screen REPLACED at her expense.

I have an LCD monitor and its image BECAME unclear. Could it be any software's fault or my monitor is damaged?By unclear what exactly do you mean. Also what were you doing before this happened. The resolution or refresh rate might not be set to the monitors native one. Check the manual from your monitor to FIND the native settings and set your computer to that.The images have shadows. ... and I didn't modify any settingsReinstall drivers?Quote from: Soviet Genius on January 15, 2008, 02:09:47 PM

Reinstall drivers?

Do you have ClearType enabled?

Hello.

I have recently BOUGHT two new 1GB PC2700 RAM STICKS for my COMPUTER. The problem comes when I try to combine them with my older RAM sticks, which are two 512MB sticks PC3200. If all sticks are inserted my monitor won't GIVE me any screen. The two new stick works if you use only them, and the same goes for the older ones.

My motherboard is an MSI K8T Neo2, and has four DIMM slots. Is there any way for me to be able to use all of my memory sticks at once? ( 512mb+512mb + 1024mb+1024mb )

Thanks for any reply.The only thing I can suggest is trying the PC2700 in the first two slots with the PC3200 in the last two, and vice versa. If it doesn't work, then you won't be able to use the four memory modules together.

What did you buy the PC2700? I switched them around the slots and the computer started this time, but froze at the WINDOWS splash screen :/

I made a misstake as I bought the 2700 sticks. I wasn't careful enough to actually look what I bought it seems...

Thanks for your suggestions however!Take a look at http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec.asp?model=K8T_Neo2-F&class=mb , and note the comment in red under Main Memory. Perhaps changing a setting in your BIOS will fix this. No guarantee but it's worth looking into. I see ( reading the link )

I thought about chaning settings in the BIOS but I'm not sure of what to actually change. I have never changed timing or voltage etc. Can you help?This is going to vary by brand of model of motherboard and I'm not familiar with your motherboard. But, see the info here on memory timing: http://www.msicomputer.com/support/sup_tshoot.asp#2_5I will look into it and reply if I have any success. If not I may have to return the sticks I bought.

Thanks for your help

I can see, you have one PCI slot available, and this is the type of video card, you have to buy.
Some PCI cards listed here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048+1069609642&name=PCIBroni, blunder, Thank You.
So my next question after looking at the long list of cards is how do I buy a video card responsibly? What numbers, beside the price, matter, and which numbers and letters do I have to see to know that the card is compatible with my desktop? I know nothing about this. I do have a compaq spec sheet Any answers, or links to learn about buying the right one will be appreciated. All cards from my link are PCI type, so all of them will work with your computer. Your best bet will be to get one with 256MB of RAM. I can see number of them up there.Thanks so MUCH for the recommendation!!
Another question, are you saying 256 MHz is best because that's what the computer came with? Does it matter that computer system memory is now 1 GB?
Peace


No. I said 256MB of RAM. This is video card RAM, not your computer RAM.
Like this one:
HIS Hightech H925H256RPN-R Radeon 9250 256MB 128-bit DDR PCI Video Card - RetailOK I get it now. Thanks for the clarification.
PeaceYou're welcome i SUGGEST 1152 X 864 resolution. i have a 19" widescreen as well, and 1280 X 1024, in my opinion, is rather small. HOWEVER, if you must get 1440 X 900, then it would be best to follow Broni's advice.

I have a DELL desktop. I bought a new COMPUTER case and changed everything out, but now my monitor acts like it's not connected to the computer. Any ideas on what I should do? sounds like you did not hook something up right while switching cases. you may wish to double check that you hooked it all up correctly.Make sure your CABLE is SECURE, also check the pins inside the socket on each end for damage or a bent pin. If no help. Try another monitor. The light on your monitor will be green if a signal is being sent. If the light is YELLOW or orange, then there is no video signal being sent from your computer. Try a diff AGP/PCI card. Is it an add on graphics card?

Might WANT to double check it's secured properly.

Alright I'm planning to upgrade to a GeForce 8800GTS 320MB, my CPU right now is a AMD Althon 64 3500+. I just want to know will a 450Watt Power Supply be enough to run my computer???1. You must list your total AMPS on the 12 volt RAIL of your power supply, thats what really counts when upgrading ure video card, Not the watts.

2. Your power supply is gonig to NEED a PCI-E 6 pin connector to connect to the 8800GTS 320mb, and make sure u have enough room. That video card takes up 2 filler bracketsI have no idea where to find that information.I currently have a power supply that has 450Watts, and thats all I know about it.http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html450W PSU will be enough to power your computer with a 8800GTS.It depends on how many watts your card needs (most video cards are over 100W) and then use the rest of your hardware (anything that takes power) to add up the total. Use your rail as was mentioned earlier, to help you make sure it's right. Your system will be unstable and PSU could get fried if you exceed the power draw.Check Here...

it appears I had a POWER outage overnight - when I tried to power up computer (Dell Dimension 4700), power CAME on, then there is a series of about 6 "beeps" and nothing ELSE happens - fan is running - but keyboard doesn't light up and monitor is black - probably requires trip to repair SHOP, but am I missing somethingCould you please count exactly how many beeps you get when you turn it on?
The beeps are known as beep codes. They TELL you what the problem is.
Here are the beep codes for your computer.

My old computers hardrive broke on my old Dell Desktop computer so I moved it all to my gateway computer I had laying around. Both are desktops this gateway has a smaller case so I had some trouble getting the wireless G network card in. I have no idea why but this computer doesn't pick up my internet signal as good as my Dell did. With my Dell my wireless internet car was getting 36MBPS but with this computer I seem to be only getting 11 both computers were set in the same place so the signal shouldn't be affected at all. It wouldn't be a BIG deal but if I have too many internet windows up or I'm on AIM and USING Firefox or internet explorer my internet will shut off and the connection will be lost. I Click REPAIR connection and it tells me that theirs no signal in range. The card goes up to I think 700FT so I don't know what I could do to fix it. Right now from the markings on my computer it says its a gateway Series E anyone have an idea what the problem could be?Did you re-install the wireless card drivers ? ?Yeah I put the disk in and reinstalled it but I only get a signal of 11MBPS Also try unplugging the router for 20 sec or so to reset. Make sure your card is seated all they way into the slot. I NOTICED you said the MoBo didnt fit very good, so look down the length of your card in the slot w/flashlight and verify its seated good. Also you did remember to install drivers & software with card out. then install card. Ground yourself from ESD.

Also this may or may not be a viable leed but, did you change PSU or are you using the older gateway that was in there. You might hook up a TESTER to verify correct power and stability.

-J

HI there! I would really appreciate any help that anyone could provide!

My laptop is broken, and I desperately would like to get all of my PICS and other files off the hard drive. I went into comp USA, and had two computer guys telling me which external hard drive to buy. Needless to say, when I got home, the hard drive doesn't appear to fit properly.

It is a Hitachi Travelstar, model# IC25N060ATMR04-0, 60GB, 4200 RPM.

I am pretty competent in all aspects of computers, but have never had to use an external hard drive. I would love it if anyone could either help me figure out the best, hopefully inexpensive, external hard drive. Or any other SUGGESTION on how I can get my beloved files off of my laptop harddrive.

Thanks for all your INPUT! http://www.datapro.net/products/laptop-ide-hard-drive-adaptor.html

well that will be difficult. all our computers have P4, and my C2D laptop is STILL under warranty, i think i will be GIVING the local computer guy a bell.that might be best.yeah. bummer.

Direct3D 8 test results: Failure at step 32 (User verification of Direct3D rendering): HRESULT = 0x00000000 (error CODE)
Direct3D 9 test results: Failure at step 32 (User verification of Direct3D rendering): HRESULT = 0x00000000 (error code)


im USING XP
graphics card is GeForce 6200 256 mb

when i run the dx test i see the first box, the second and 3rd are squares with the logo going crazy.

i try and run WOW. and theeres graphics just going crazy everywhere.Did it just start? Did you install any new drivers?no i got a new video card and i INSTALLED the latest driveri tryed uninstalling and installing an older one and nothing helped

I was installing a Wireless internet card into my PC but was having trouble due to my Video card being in the way. I took out my video card, put in my wireless internet card, reinserted my video card and started my computer back up to find out that I wasn't getting any video on my Monitors. I then plugged one of my monitors into the integrated video connection that i don't use anymore, it worked, it gave me full display on the monitor. The thing is, i don't want my video coming from the integrated video connection, but rather my video card located in my PCI slot. How do I go about doing this? I uninstalled the stuff that i installed when installing the video card the first go around, then went through the instructions that came with it. It didn't work. When installing the software/drivers i get this message:


Please help! Thanx!

System Specs:
Dell Dimension E521
Vista Home Premium 32 Bit
AMD ATHLON 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3600+ 1.90 GHz
958 MB RAM

PCI Video Card is a VisionTek x1300 ATI Radeon 256MB
Reseat (remove and reinsert) your video card, making sure it slides completely into the slot. It may have just not gone in properly (even THOUGH it may look ok).

Reconnect the monitor to it and TRY again.

If that doesn't work, remove and uninstall the wireless card then try the steps above again.

How much space is between the cards when they're inside? If you're that short on space inside, you might consider an external option (like a USB wireless adaptor).Well, did all you said, It didn't work. I still get that same message.Seems Your Not Alone...

Have you by chance tried the Omega drivers ? ?
They've been known to work on stubborn ATI cards...

Here Ya Go...Well, i looked and it seems there arnt any Omega Drivers for 32 bit Vista yet, so i tried a different one but it didn't work. I did some searching but still couldn't find anything that helps me.

I did however take the card out and put it in my old computer and it worked fine.

I wish I could get this resolved, its driving me crazy.Have you contacted ATi directly ? ? ?I contacted VisionTek which is the company that the video card was sold through or w/e. I havnt gotten home yet to check my email, im currently at school, so...Quote

You may want to install updates for your motherboard to ensure that the
motherboard has the best ability to communicate with the card.

Thank you,
VisionTek Tech Support

Go to Dell site, enter your service ticket#, and it'll tell you what downloads are available.

I have a new flat screen TV with HDMI and S-Video plugs. My computer only has Serial Ports. Is there an adapter? If not can I have the computer updated to use the TV.What do you want this to view. Games/Television? If you want TV then get a computer tv CARD.Sorry, I want to use the TV as my computer moniter.You need a graphics card that supports HDMI. Then get a lead... HDMI/PC, but i warn you, there not CHEAP. They do however GIVE the BEST picture.thanks

A friend asked me to help him but a new PC for under 500._ max. After searching online the one we are looking at seems to offer a lot for the money, and comes with a 3 warranty on system components and labor and unlimited tech help (i am not advertising). http://www.computerlx.com/config.aspx?t=&product_ID=656

He is not interested in games, or cpu intensive tasks like encoding or playing much media, but. I would upgrade the cpu to the AMD Athlon dual core 5000 (40.00) and the memory to 2GB pc5400 ram (20.00), plus a case cooler (6.00). Total cost approx. 450.00 + S+H. A comparable one from Dell woud be approx. 640.000

I pray i can recommend the most for the mone, and comments are welcome, and my more specific questions would be if anyone knows how good Asus mobos are? The default one will handle up to 4GB ram, but only 2 slots.

And what Intel cpu would compare to the AMD 5000?

As for the OS. he really has no need for Vista, and XP (which is what he has now) would prevent any hardware and learning curve problems, but updates may cease rather soon.

THANKS for any input. I've never seen that website, it might not be reliable, we'll know for sure if someone bought something from there. Also, it might be a better idea to build a computer yourself, it is significantly cheaper.Intel has been in the lead for the last 2-3 years now and AMD is still trying to catch up. They both make good processors but Intel will be faster and run cooler than AMD. Benchmark tests have shown that some Intel CPUs rated at slower speeds still outperform AMD CPUs rated at higher speeds.
As far as the ASUS motherboards, they are recommended by Microsoft. They make a good board. I use Intel, however because they come with a 3 year warranty. ASUS comes with a 1 year warranty.

Windows XP will probably continue to have updates and service PACKS until 2014, when extended support ends.
If you are comfortable with building your own computer, check out www.newegg.com for good prices. If you need help picking out parts, let us know.I just built a PC and my budget was also $500. I used Newegg to order the parts, then I PUT them together with no trouble. I had never built one before, so it is very doable.

I got:

Lexa Blackline case
500W PSU with modular cabling
Gigabyte SLI mobo
Athon 64 x2 4000+ (I overclocked it to 2.6 Ghz)
2 GB Corsair DDR2 PC6400
Geforce 8400 GS
Samsung 20x DVD burner
I already had 2 HDD's

All of this after SHIPPING was right at $500 and I get $50 in mail-in rebates. Try getting this system with these specs at Dell and I guarantee you pay $600+, not to mention the fact that you get cheap parts and no control over upgrades etc..

I've never seen the site you mentioned, but I'd be weary of unknown PC builders. It's better just to do it yourself. You can get better parts for lower prices.
I appreciate the advice, and i did a search on reviews of allpczone and found from resellerratings.com that they were overall positive (Lifetime Rating: 9.40), but they only go back as far as the beginning of 2007, while on Ebay they have been a member since Feb-24-05with a rating of 99.7+. Well, praise the Lord for that, though the risk is that they can sell big for a few years and then go out of business. I will call them again for a little more history.

Regarding to the CPU, i have read some of the "debates," and it does seem Intel has gained the lead, but that is why i wondered what Intel cpu would be comparable to the AMD 5000 (not a 5 gig i am sure!)

As for building your own cheaper, it can be close. Searching on Newegg for the same or very comparable hardware ( all but the mobo, which was discontinued, but which i found elsewhere), i came up with this, with shipping (though that would be reduced if combined).

AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+ Brisbane 2.6GHz Socket AM2 65W Dual-Core 100.00

ASUS M2V-MX AM2 VIA K8M890 mobo $85.00

Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - 70.00

Crucial Ballistix 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) 45.00

SAMSUNG 20X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe Black SATA 30.00

Cyber Acoustics CA2012WW 4 watts 2.0 Speaker - OEM 10.00

Anyware EZ-9910OP Beige PS/2 Standard Office Keyboard - 10.00

Broadway Com Corp 808PA-BKGY Black/ Gray Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case w/ 450W Power Supply 45.00 (should be upgraded).

XP HE OS Retail 110.00 (ebay)

...... OR, Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM 110.00

Total 505.00

So that would be more than the upgraded PC (482.00 with S+H) from allpczone. One thing i would like to upgrade would be the case, which reviews at Newegg say are cheap.

Hi, I'm having problems getting Windows to print properly on a tractor-fed dot matrix printer. Seems like no mater how wide I SET the bottom margin, Windows always wants to print the footer on the top of the next page. Anyone else ever have a similar problem? I'm using Windows XP, but I recall having the same problem in 98 as well. My printer is an NEC Pinwriter P5200 and I'm using the Microsoft-supplied drivers, if that helps.When I had my old Epson Dot Matrix I had an issue like this, and what I had to do was edit the print properties for the document, margins etc, also fit to page etc had to be set otherwise simetimes the print would go over the 8.5" since it was a wide format dot matrix CAPABLE of 11 or 13" wide tractor stock. But it sound like you have already played with the margins.

Sometimes trying a generic driver for the printer can aso work, such as a base model or that model vs if your printer has extra FEATURES. Also get the latest driver frm the mfr and not the one that Windows Detects it to be.

Also had an issue where the URL was printing from the FIRST page onto the second page when printing through IE, and fixed this by editing the IE printing properties to exclude the URL.



OK, so I've changed the margins, the page size, and the drivers, and it still prints the footer at the top of the next page. I would just remove them and be done with it, but some classes require me to use footers on my documents.

I found one site that claims to have the driver for my printer for Windows XP, but they dubiously ask for money in return for the download.

Is there a printing utility that will allow me to choose how to center a page?Have the same problem with manual feed, apparently. The driver doesn't seem to take into ACCOUNT that the printer automatically sets the printhead at 1" down the page.

Well I am having some trouble getting a computer running, It has windows 98 on it and it runs FINE (computer designed for XP), but I have been trying to put windows xp or 2000 on there, but when I do the computer seems to dump the memory and DISPLAYS the PFN_LIST_CORRUPT blue screen, I have searched other forums for answers and I have tried this so far:

-RESEATED RAM
-Ran Memtest 86 V3.4 (no errors were found)
-Replaced HDD
-Reset the CMOS

The only thing I have not done yet is reseated the processor, which I doubt is the problem because windows 98 runs fine. Any ideas would be appreciated.have you run scandisk yet?I have not yet, I am reinstalling windows 98 right now to see if it makes any DIFFERENCE, afterwards I will let you know here is a little more info about the pc:

Compaq SR1200NX motherboard put in another case
256 DDR 2700 ram
AMD Sempron ProcessorYou may have faulty CPU/motherboard.if i have a faulty motherboard wouldn't windows 98 seize to work?Not necessarily, because the case, I've read about with a very same error, had intermittent CPU problem.
Replacing CPU solved the problem.
I can't assure you 100%, it's your case.Well I have put Windows NT 4 on there, I guess since this works i'll just leave it at that since its working, just a spare computer

Does any1 know the proper way to remove an old x16 card and install a new x16 card. Going from 7300LE to a 8800GT (i have 6-pin power connector) should i remove the Nvidia Drivers from my "UNINSTALL a program" (vista) [on XP its add/remove program]. Then i found this Driver cleaner PRO thing and i was wondering if i should run that, and if i do, clean what. Also, in what order do i do it? I got Vista HOME premium 32-bit btw.

Thx for inputi have removed my drivers via "add/remove programs". i cannot comment on any driver cleaners for i have never used them, perhaps someone else can comment.

the order for installing a new video card...

1. uninstall old video card drivers
2. shut down and unplug the computer.
3. physically remove the old video card and install the new video card.
4. plug computer back in and power it up.
5. install new drivers for video card.

*added note, it would be best to download nvidias latest drivers from their website instead of using the drivers on the CD that comes with your video card.I agree with homer. That is all you need to do. And make sure your power supply got enough juice to run the 8800 card. It more than likely need a higher powered PSU than 7300 LE and MAY need an external connector from PCI-E slot to card.

...and i agree with elxr06, i forgot to mention the new PSU requirements.

the 8800GT requires a supplementary power hookup in order to function correctly. you can get adapters for these if your PSU doesnt have any PCI-E connectors, but you may wish to just purchase a new PSU depending on your current PSU's wattage.Like i said, i have the 6-pin, but one other question: I read somewhere that i had to disable my virus scanner and dissconect my modem when installing my video card drivers. Is this urgent?i have never heard of disconnecting the modem, i really cant see how an internet connection would interfere with installing video card drivers, but i have heard of disabling your virus scanner. i believe it means you shouldnt be doing a virus scan when you are installing your video card drivers. i installed my video card drivers with AVG running (not doing a system virus scan) and i have not run into any problems.i installed new card drivers recently and i did not disable anything. I simply installed the drivers using install program NVidia's website provided and that was all.

If you simply install your card physically then start your computer and download/install drivers immediately, following all directions provided by the installer, your computer should be ready to go very soon They must just disable the ANTI virus just in case it starts doing a virus scan by itself like many do.

I'm using NORTON Commander to transfer files onto a really old laptop through a COM port because there is no other way to get them there if they don't fit on a floppy. First it's disturbingly slow. Is there any way to make it faster? And can I plug or unplug the wire while the computer is on?yes, you can unplug a serial cable while the pc is still on.
The SPEED of the transfer depends on the capability of the program. hyper terminal can support speeds up to 921,600bps, although Hyper terminal isn't generally used for transferring files to another computer. As I don't know much about Norton Commander, except that Norton doesn't make it anymore, you'll have to check your transfer settings and tweak them a little.Maybe I can use the parallel (printer) ports? Are they faster? And which program can I use (keep in mind that the laptop has DOS/Win3.1)
I don't THINK parallel is any faster. Not sure though.
Check out this link: http://www.rmonet.com/commander/I seem to remember that Laplink using parallel ports was faster.
Could be wrong though. It's been a while.


urls to check out:

http://oldfiles.org.uk/powerload/msdos.htm
Text search the page for Laplink . See all the instances.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laplink
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LapLink_cable
Some general READING I found with Google. MIGHT be helpful.

Ok. Before we begin I just want to say that I have heard it all from my friends already! I have learned a lot in the past 24 hours.

The deal.
I have an Abit IP-95 MB running on 2GB memory ETC with a Pentium D 3.0GHz CPU...

I just recently purchased a CORE 2 Quad Q6600 here. I installed this CPU in my MB last night and come to find out that my MB does not support Quad Core (I know!). It does support Core 2 so I just assumed incorrectly. Anyways, It wouldn't load windows. It would kind of get through CMOS but then just stop.

The question.
Basically what I need to know is did I hurt the Core 2? Can doing this affect the Core 2 or did it just not like it? Because I ordered a new MB today but I fear that I hurt the CPU.

Thanks in advance and please understand that this was a learning process for me. i dont believe it would have hurt it, but you will soon find out with your new motherboard.Wow... um... hard to say. I've never heard of someone doing that before, and I've never tried it myself, so it's hard to say if the processor could have been damaged. I tried searching for someone having done a similar thing, but found nothing.

But like Homer said, you'll soon find out. Will be interesting to know, please let us know how it turns out. Hope everything is alright. Ok, new MB in and all installed up and running fine for 3 days now. I'm EVEN BURNING in as I type this. The "retardation" doesn't appear to be affecting the CPU any. My old MB is also still usable.

Live and learn aye?Quote

Live and learn aye?

im pretty good with computers.. i have put together multiple systems with very few problems all of which were solvable. but now i have gone out and bought the most rediculous parts i could and whacked them together (not litteraly). anyway put everything together and BAM no loading, no nothing all the fans go on watercooling goes DISK drive goes and im pretty sure my hdd goes but kinda hard to tell over fan noise and i think i can feel it vibrating but it could be the watercooling. also my graphics CARDS are running (though the fans take a few seconds to start but then are running FINE). the worst part is no beeps and im pretty sure that the speaker plug in to the MB. so at the end of all this i have no display it isnt even regonising that it is plugged in.. it does a seach for a few seconds between anolog and dig. but nothing is there. i tried all the different ports on the back of the graphics cards but to no avail .
im fresh out of ideas and any will help. im am going AWAY for a couple of days tomorrow so i will reply to any replys when i return.. thanks for any imput.

Parts list:
Asus P5N-T-DELUXE Nforce 780I

Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6850 (3.0Ghz/Kentsfield/4MBx2/1333FSB/EMT64/XD/Quad Core)

2X XFX PV-T80F-SHF9 Geforce 8800GTX, 768MB

2X Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C5 XTREME MEMORY SPEED 4GB (2x XMS2 2GB) PC-6400 (800MHz) DDR2 RAM

Samsung 226BW Wide TFT Monitor - Black, Max. Resolution 1680x1050, 2ms Response Time

SONY DRU840A Internal IDE 20x Dual Layer DVD Multi Drive

Thermaltake VA8000BWSA Armor Full Tower Case

Thermaltake W0133 Toughpower 1200W PSU, 14cm Silent Fan, Quad Core Ready

Western Digital WD4000AAKS 400gb 7200rpm 16mb SATAII/300, NCQ

Thermaltake CL-W0121 Bigwater 760i Liquid Cooling System Thats the same problem i have. all i've found is that if the motherboard doesnt beep when you take the memory out it's cactus. i'm taking mine to a computer guy tomorrow and see what they can do about itTime for a benchtest...
Remove all components including the MBoard.
Place the MBoard on a rubber mat or a piece of cardboard.
Connect only the following:

CPU
Heatsink and Fan
1 stick of RAM
Vid Card
Monitor
Keyboard and Mouse.
PSU.

Power up and see if it posts.
If it doesn't you'll need to borrow another vid card and swap it in there to make sure it's not a dead card. Even though the fan runs the card could still be DOA.

If it posts add one component at a time doing a shutdown and cold boot each time and continue til you find the culprit...What is the power supplyPlease start your own thread if you have any questions jbrulz. It gets CONFUSING to help more than one person in a thread.i did start on just minutes before this on appeared!

So, since about a week ago my laptops external speakers have stopped working. I can hear sound when I have headphones in, but not when they are out.

I've tried a system RESTORE, checked all of my drivers and everything seems to be in working order.

I have a Dell Inspiron E1505
Core 2 duo
1 gig ram
Windows XP Pro.

If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it.

THANKS!!!

AndrewHave you tried reinstalling your sound drivers? I had a problem with a desktop system where the speakers sounded muffled and I uninstalled the sound drivers and reinstalled them and now it works great.I'll have to try that.

A friend of mine said that the speakers might have blown out. How much would they cost to replace with parts and labor? I'm guessing quite a bit since it's a laptop...I hope your speakers didn't get blown out, but if they did I don't know how much it would cost to have them replaced. Is this a fairily new laptop that could possibly be under warranty?

Try my SUGGESTION of reinstalling the sound drivers and GO from there.

That's one of the reasons I don't like laptops because it's hard for the everyday person to fix stuff on them. I have a laptop, but it's one that I got free from work because it is extremely outdated running Windows 98. If anything like that ever BREAKS, I'll just keep using it until it COMPLETELY dies.

Anyway, please keep us updated.uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers and nothing has changed. still no sound from the external speakers but sound from my headphones...

I'm tempted to take off the case just to see whats going on but i'm not sure I would be able to put it back together right. I'm fairly advanced when it comes to desktops but not sure how that would relate to a laptop.

how does Maxtor III USB2.0 external harddrive determine what to back up? Does it repeat FILES that you have moved to another folder, if the files have not been changed, but just moved to better organize the folders, does Maxtor MAKE sure that the file is not duplicated? Similarly, does Maxtor backup every file that you have just "opened to look at" between backup TIMES? If so, is it re backing up that file or what?

THANKS,

suziartWelcome to the CH forums.

According to the Users Guide (which I understand is available as a file on the drive) you have to select which folders to backup in the CONFIGURATION section of the drive setup.

Users Guides can be downloaded from here.

Good luck.

Hello Folks, I have a toshiba SATELLITE m35x it wasgiven to me because
someone was gonna toss it I tried to set up windows(full version)XP,but the computer says that no hard drive was detected. Fine so I went out
and bought a new hard drive installed everything went ok. and STILL the
bios said that there are no hard drives installed. did my bios chip die?
oh yeah had to take computer apart to clear bios password.it went back together just fine but same result Help Its not a SATA hard drive is it?Some new hard drives need to be formatted as they are not at the factory...but you should run auto-detect in the BIOS setup utility first to make sure it's not the BIOS that's not detecting it...thanks for the reply guys, no its not a sata drive and I'll try the auto detect
if there is one in the bios
Thanks again1. Hard Drive. What is the make, model number, and capacity of the hard drive? Are there IDE JUMPERS on the drive that need to be set (master, slave, single, cable select)?

2. Laptop Age. Any estimate as to how old that Toshiba laptop model is (or date of BIOS)?


It's pretty rare that you see jumpers on a laptop HDD...Yeah... OK... I wondered about sticking my neck out... Should have waited for the make and model number (and then do some research). Sigh...You shouldn't have to set any jumpers, you should be able to install the drive and have the BIOS find it unless it has a blown controller.

Davethis laptop is nuts. I go to the bios but it skips over hdd detection. cant access??the drive is a western digital 80gb bought a few days ago.no jumpers were on the old drive it was an 40gig hitachi. the bios didnt
recognize it either. Hitachi would'nt make hdd inaccessable in the bios
would they?oh yeah phoenix bios version 4.0 release 6.0 I THINK the machine was built in 2004. I took the thing apart to reset the cmos because
someone password protected the bios. Arrrfgh I don't have the original setup program for this that might be the whole problem right?Well it's either that or the MBoard/BIOS won't support a drive over 40G...
To get that BIOS repaired you will probably have to take it to a service center where they will install the correct EEPROM.

This is one of the reasons we rarely suggest BIOS flashes here...

it SEEMS like it cannot read your harddrive. not being able to read a harddrive = harddrive failure.

Quote

what CAUSED it

what can i do to keep it from happening again?

The problem is my computer is very unstable, any game I play it will be smooth and then it STARTS lagging like crazy. After 2-3 mins it would return to being smooth with fps between 80-100, then it will start lagging like crazy again. I don't KNOW if it just does this while playing games or not, and I don't know how to test if it does. I have tried replacing the RAM, but same result with the new RAM.

I'm not sure if it's the video card, I have the newest driver.
I'm leaning towards, maybe its the CPU, but I'm not really sure. How do I test my video card and CPU to see if its broken without buying a new ones?? Maybe it's the motherboard itself? I have no idea what to do. Someone help plzzz.

My Specs:
Abit AN8 SLI 939 socket
AMD Althon 64 3500+
NVidia GeForce 6800GS
Kingston HyperX DDR400 2G
300GB Serial ATA hard drive
Does this occur with all games? What games have you experienced this problem with?

Do you notice the same (or similar) thing when watching video? Listening to audio? Using Windows in general?

It sounds like the video card might be having trouble, either overheating or dying. How old is the card? When did the problem start? Was anything changed prior to this happening or has it always done this?

Also, are you using XP or Vista?I'm using Windows XP right now, and I have the problem with all games. Even older ones that my system should be able to handle. Warcraft III, Sims 2, Age of Empires III, Counter Strike Source. I can listen to music perfectly fine.

My computer is about 2 years old now.So I just poped in a DVD and watched the entire thing without any problems; it was smooth the from start to finish.

I tested more gaming applications. I started up WoW and the unstably thing happens again. Couple minutes of smooth gameplay then it lags like crazy for couple minutes, then it plays smooth again for couple minutes, then lags again. I tabbed out of WoW during the lag and went to windows tasks manager, the thing that stood out was that during the lag my computer's CPU usage spikes all the way up to 100% and stays there. During the smooth play the CPU usage peaks at 30% never goes higher than that, it stays in the high 10%.

So, I'm still not sure if its the CPU or the GPU. Both are about 2 and a half years old.
Anyone have any opinions on this? I need help before I go and buy the wrong thing.

Also how about my power supply, maybe my set up needs more power. I have a 450W.
I doubt you're over on power. From what you've told me about your system, it sounds like you'd be pulling 350, maybe 400, depending on what extras you have. Doesn't mean the power supply isn't the problem, but to answer your question about needing more power, I really don't think so.

Is the fan still working on the video card?

By chance do you have another video card (or can you acquire one from someone ELSE) that you could test out on your system?

Also my previous questions that didn't get answered:
When did the problem start? Was anything changed prior to this happening or has it always done this (either software or hardware)?im leaning on the video card. this same thing would happen to me... well long story short i got a new video card and the problem ended for me. but that doesnt leave the cpu out. i have the exact same one 3500+ 2.2 clawhammer and also around 2 years old. not a problem with it at all.I'm not sure when the problem started. Nothing has changed really, just one day i noticed it. I'm really a binge gamer, I'll play A LOT when i have time and not play at all if im busy. SOMETIMES I don't turn my computer on for weeks or months at a time.

Alright I'll go out and buy one of them GeForce 8s and test to see if its my video card.No sense in spending that much money if that isn't the problem. Do you know anyone else that might have a spare?Ok so I went and got a 8600GT (couldn't afford the 8800). I started up Age of Empires III and OMG!!! NO LAG (I played for a good hour or so)!!! Yes, good job fellas. It was the GPU all along because when I removed my old one I noticed some brown-orange spots on it. Maybe they are burn marks???

Anyway, I went to tab out and checked the task manager and the CPU usage is still at 100% and it stays there. The gameplay was not effected but I would like to know what this means? Do I have to get a new CPU now?? This only happens during gameplay once again, leaving at idle CPU usage reads 0% and never budges.

I have a strange issue. Static electricity occasionally drops my desktop to the much hated Blue Screen of Death. Running a ASROCK motherboard, AMD processor, two HDs in RAID 0, 1 GB RAM, NVIDIA video card, with a Belkin power supply. Everything has ground lines and power supply indicates good ground.

Computer occasionally (3-4 times a week) gives me Blue Screen of Death, usually when I stand up and walk AWAY from computer. Static was the only thing I could think of, but I tried replacing numerous components, even tried shaking the desk and such, and also did a complete reformat/reinstall. I ultimately confirmed static as the problem yesterday, when I took a blanket that was completely full of static (raising the hair on my arms and clinging to anything near it) and waived it toward the computer. Blue Screen. Rebooted and played around on it a bit. No problems. Few minutes later, went to get blanket (still a big ball of static) and brought it toward the computer. Blue Screen.

Computer sits on WOOD base of computer table. Glass top. carpeted floors.

Other than replacing main power CABLE with a new ONE, do I have any other options for this?

Thanks.I think you need to double check your grounding, not only of the computer, but of the power outlet as well. I've never heard of a properly grounded computer generating static in the amount you seem to be getting.

On a side NOTE, I wouldn't experiment with static and the computer. It won't take much to damage a system.Yes, good point. First time waiving the blanket was pure accident. threw it on the chair near the computer while making the bed- computer crashed to blue screen. Second time, i waived it toward the computer. Both times, blanket was at least 3-4 feet from the computer. considering that the blue screen was happening (apparently) completely randomly, usually when standing and walking away from computer, this strong correlation between static and blue screen must be related.

I just put together a new system and everything is working smoothly except for my sound. My motherboard uses the Realtek HD audio drivers and has integrated sound. I have speakers on my monitor and they work FINE, but my main speakers and sub woofer don't work at all.

The speakers I am trying to get to work are Boston Acoustics #BA7500. You can view the manual here: www.bostonacoustics.com/Manuals/BA7500Man.pdf.

I bought them back in '00, so they are old but still in good condition. I would prefer to use them if possible.

These speakers have a set-up like so:

The two desktop speakers share one wire that plugs into the subwoofer. The sub woofer has its own power supply and acts as the "mainframe." The sub woofer has a digital output wire that plugs into the sound card, but the wire is not your typical digital out wire. The connector is like a regular analog connector.

The RealTek HD audio control panel has an analog section and a digital section. The analog section corresponds to the I/O ports that I am able to PLUG my wire in. My plug wont fit the digital connector. Since my speakers must use digital output, I figure this MIGHT be my problem.

These speakers were originally used with a SoundBlaster Live! 5.1. Do I have a COMPATIBILITY issue with this integrated sound on my Mobo? Or do I have a wiring problem?Quote

Since my speakers must use digital output

Wait, nevermind. Online manuals do wonder eh?

You know those HARD drive enclosures that let you use a normal hard drive as an external ONE? Does the same kind of thing exist for floppy drives?QUOTE from: Soviet Genius on JANUARY 17, 2008, 04:34:39 PM

You know those hard drive enclosures that let you use a normal hard drive as an external one? Does the same kind of thing exist for floppy drives?

Hi, I have been RUNNING the same motherboard on my homebuilt PC now for about three years. (Abit AV8) Over the past month, whenever I start up the computer in the morning, the motherboard will not boot the system and gives its characteristic warning "buzz". The computer will boot properly on the second try and anytime during the day. It is only when the computer has been SHUT off OVERNIGHT that it behaves in this manner.

I'm basically here because I am not sure if my motherboard is more or less letting me KNOW that is failing, getting old, ect. and that I should consider replacing it.

Thanks for any opins.Before giving up on that MBoard try 2 things :
Replace the CMOS battery:



Then try another PSU...make sure it's the same or greater wattage that was in there and see if the condition improves...

(new here, so I'm not sure which category this really goes under)

OK, so I upgraded my dad's Pentium II office computer with a Trigem Imperial-G and 2.4GHz Pentium 4 that I'd just replaced in my main computer (from an eMachines computer ), and, after a lot of trying to get it to boot, etc, etc, I've whittled the number of faults down to two: the onboard NIC has no drivers, which I suppose I could easily rectify, but one problem is majorly bugging me: neither the onboard sound neither a Hercules Gamesurround Fortissimo III I tried to replace it with will work correctly in Windows 98.

I also tried to get a SB Audigy (sb0090) to work on the system, but I had no 98 drivers for it (2000/XP WDM drivers wouldn't install, and the only VxD drivers are available on installation CDs), and the kX project drivers caused explorer to crash before bringing up the taskbar (anything to do with being unable to play the startup sound?)... I eventually gave up on the Audigy and swapped it for the aforementioned Gamesurround Fortissimo III.

I'm suffering from the all too common problem of having sound drivers working perfectly, but the mixer is said to be "enabled but inactive due to an unknown problem".

The only errors I can find in Device Manager are duplicate entries for the keyboard and DMA, the duplicates of which keep reinstalling (ghost drivers?), and the driverless NIC.

I'm hoping there's a solution without reinstalling 98, as I don't really WANT to risk fubar-ing my dad's computer further, especially because he's skeptical about the upgrade (and rightly so, it's caused more problems than it was worth, including making his AGP3.3V ATi RAGE and ISA AWE32, TV card and modem incompatible with his computer) ...at least not without EXTENSIVE backups having been made. If I could afford a legal copy of Windows 2000 I'd get him that, too, because unlike me I don't think he has a strange obsession with outdated technology (rather, he's one of those "if it's not broke then don't fix it" types)

Since the computer is an office computer, I should be able to stave off the lack of audio for a while yet, but my dad's starting to miss it

EDIT: FORGOT to mention I've tried reinstalling the sound card drivers and chipset drivers... also, I'm currently using hardware ENUMERATION with the normal table settings.I would DLoad and run Everest Home on that machine to determine what exact MBoard is in there and DLoad and re-install the MBoard chipset drivers...
Chances are this will rectify the NIC problem and also enable you to use other sound devices if not the onboard ones...Everest Home wasn't able to identify the motherboard specifically (but I know from other sources that the motherboard is a Trigem Imperial-G) but it detected a Brookdale-G i845G northbridge (and an Intel 82801DB ICH4 southbridge). I'll try to find a different chipset package, but I've already tried installing the chipset package I have several times and it hasn't helped.Absolutely nothing happened, except Windows re-detecting several interface devices, trying to restart, stalling on "Windows is shutting down..." and the chipset installation utility bitching about a temporary FILE upon startup.Is this driver you're trying to use from a CD that came with the motherboard or elsewhere?Elsewhere. I have no idea where I put the eMachines recovery CD set, disc 2 had drivers :/

(I'd installed Linux on the PC this came out of, so I'd decided I wouldn't need the restore CDs again... typical.)

what is the faster way to create FAT/FAT32 or DOS partition on new HDD?
Try Partition Magic. FDisk is Free though...fat32 has much less security. if i were you i would GO with ntfsQuote from: fpsmitch on JANUARY 17, 2008, 09:42:05 AM

fat32 has much less security. if i were you i would go with ntfs

P-
Got Nero 8.Still no solution to this puzzle.
No reason to do a REINSTALL, 'cause everything is just fine.
As a side note I got the C: Drive to show in Device Manager FINALLY, by changing settings in Comp. Management. I do not have the MS KB number with me RIGHT now, but it worked for getting C: to show in Device Manager.
If anyone reads through this thread and wants the article #, EMAIL me:
______________________X
But, I still don't have the icon showing for the Hard drive in My computer.

...and its not booting up. i have everything connected,double checked, but it doesnt get beyond the initial screen, i have the xp install in dvd drive, i press f9 for the boot screen, and nothing but a flashing cursor, there are a couple other f# choices but they all lead to the flashing cursor. i have a biostar p4m900-m4 socket 478 800mhz motherboard w/ pentium 4 processor and 1 stick of 1GB RAM. i got a benq dvd-rw jumper set to master, a western digital hdd set to master and a maxtor hdd not jumpered for slave. all help will be appreciated. thanks. -props1oh1Any beep codes?

When you say you get a couple of options. What options are those?

What does the screen display before the blinking cursor? Did you set your DVD drive to be the first boot device in the bios?

Is there something on your keyboard that prevents F9 on the keyboard from working. I know i have to press another key on my keyboard before I can use the F keys.Double checked all connections ?
Was Thermal Paste applied (properly) ?
New PSU or used ?
MBoard standoffs all in place ?
CPU fan hooked up to the proper CONNECTOR ?
Correct type of RAM and seated properly ?hi. the screen i get to is the initial screen w/ the energy logo up in the corner
says phoenix bios, blah blah, ddr dimm speed 667, blah blah, at the bottom options to press f8 to enable system config, f9 to select booting after post, del to enter setup. ive tried f8 f9 del and nothing from the f's, del does get me to the bios and i have changed dvd to boot first but i still get nothing. as for beeps i get one when i first turn the computer on and another after it finishes acknowledging the ide's, ram etc. thats it. the power supply and case are brand new, yes all connections have been double checked the ram is correct and seated good, and as for the mobo i bought it with the processor and fan preinstalled intentionally so i wouldnt have to mess with the paste and cpu (i am a pretty unlucky guy,) i didnt want to take the chance. there is one thing i can think of, the xp cd i am using is a burned one from the net cause mine had a crack in it, and i did add a folder with a cd ripping program to the cd, maybe that folder is getting in the WAY of the bootable iso from loading? but then i'm not sure why it would give me just a flashing cursor? thanks guys. -props1oh1Downloaded warez can cause problems all by themselves.does anyone else have any ides as to what my problem could be. could that xp cd, which came with alot of good comments, really cause the computer to not boot up and just show a flashing screen. thanks -props1oh1Yes if the cd is no good It will just flash like this! That's why I told you to set the first boot as Cdrom. Now the computer is booting from the cdrom and finding nothing! It could also be the cd drive itself that is faulty!!Quote

i didnt want to take the chance. there is one thing i can think of, the xp cd i am using is a burned one from the net cause mine had a crack in it,

Quote

i didnt want to take the chance. there is one thing i can think of, the xp cd i am using is a burned one from the net cause mine had a crack in it,

This is the source of your issues...new build or old.

why was my reply disabled. i dont need help with warez if you can read, i do however need help setting up xp on my computer, where i got the cd is moot and none of your business. but thanks for being so cool...

Sorry, What I meant was, I disconnected the one dvd drive when I began to have problems. I also suspected it might be PSU so I just disconnected the DVD to test it.

Anyways, I just have the 2 harddrives and 2 dvd drives CONNECTED now and all SEEMS to be RUNNING ok. I have had it running 2 days solid and all is ok. Thanks!

I HAVE CANON PIXMA IP1300 BUT WHEN I DO PRINTING THE STATUS OF THE PRINTER BECOME "USER INTERVENTION REQUIRED" AND SOMETIMES WHEN I RESET MY PRINTER THE USER INTERVENTION GONE, BUT THE RESUME BOTTOM BLINKS 7 TIMES THEN THE GREEN, WHAT IS THAT MEAN? AND HOW I CAN SOLVE MY PRINTER PROBLEM? PLS HELP MEWHY are you writing in caps?Printer is having low toner or ink or out of paperWe need more info like;

What kind of printer is it?


Have you tried changing the ink/paper?

Any error messages (on the computer or on the printer's display)?Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on May 27, 2008, 02:41:49 AM

We need more info like;

What kind of printer is it?


Have you tried changing the ink/paper?

Any error messages (on the computer or on the printer's display)?

I HAVE CANON PIXMA IP1300

Hello,
I was re installing windows xp and during the formatting my computer stopped @ 65% and would not continue so I restarted it and when it went back to where I was supposed to be it say's that it cant find the hard disk 0 I dont know what to do can you please help me...First, look in the BIOS to see if the hard drive is seen there. Usually hitting the "DELETE" key gets you in but it depends on the motherboard manufacturer. At boot up look for anything that says Enter BIOS or Setup. If the hard drive is not seen there then the CD will not see it as well. If it is seen then check the boot sequence and make sure the CD is set for the first boot device.

Alan <>< it's no SEEING my hard disk dont know what happened Get free diagnostic tool from your hard drive manufacturer web site: http://www.z-a-recovery.com/ref-vendors.htm1. What service pack level is the Windows XP CD you're using; original, SP1, SP2? Or were you using a System Recovery Partition?

2. What is the total capacity of the hard disk you're using.

3. What is the make and model number of the computer (or motherboard if not a "brand name" computer)? Older computers (BIOS) and operating systems did not provide NATIVE support for very large hard drives.

or
How old is the computer?

4. Follow Broni's advice.

Quote

held on to my HEINEKEN though

guys, how much POWER consumption the computer and loptop have?
how can i know if my computer can consume high power.

for example to me, im having a specs of:

Celeron D 2.66 MHz (dont know the FSB yet)
one(1) 1GB and one(1) 512MB of RAM
one(1) HD (using IDE cable)
500W power supply
60W CRT monitorThe amount of a computer's power consumption is based on all the hardware attached...including memory, DRIVES, processor, etc.

This will vary based on what your computer is doing...and what TASKS your processor is performing.

If you want to monitor your computer's power consumption...there's a NIFTY little program called: LocalCooling

You may want to check it out...

voltage upsurge blew my power pack,i have changed most of the found failty components,still it seens not to work.can any one HELP me with the possible components normally damaged by voltage upsurge,or what i can do to rescue this power pack !you're best bet is to replace the power supply and I would reccommend not to go with the $20 special also possibly something else is wrong like maybe yoiur motherboard maybe fried I don't know for sure. I NEED to know the specs for your computer please so that we can further help youand for all your power going to your computer ... did you have a power surge protector USED?By referring to "power pack"...

Do you mean Power Supply, or the motherboard's voltage regulator?

Which components did you replace?

Have you checked the motherboard for swollen or blown capacitors?

If it's the Power Supply...do you have another you can use to test?

brett74 also made a great recommendation...get a surge suppressor...

Make sure it provides enough protection for all peripherals...specifically, your computer.

If you can afford it...PURCHASE a UPS (Uninterrupted Power Supply) to PROVIDE you with enough power to safely shut down your computer during power outages.

Also remember to unplug your computer from all cables and power outlets during a thunderstorm.

Nothing can save your computer from a direct hit by lightning.

Hello again!

I got/built a new computer for christmas *Yay*
Now i asked you guys on this forum what parts to get and this is what i got:

Asus P5N32-E SLI (would have got Evga 680i, but then i wouldnt have got it before late january)
Intel q6600 (Go-stepping) + Thermalright ultra 120 extreme
8800 gts 320mb (would have got 8800 gt, but then i wouldnt have got it before late january)
2gb ddr2 800 mhz
Thermaltake toughpower 700w (going to get SLI)
Antec 900

and i kept the old hard drive and cd/dvd drives.

Now i got the thermalright ultra 120 extreme for one reason... OC!
The problem is that i am not fermilliar with the BIOS, so i have tried the AI booster that came with my mobo.
Seems to work fine, got the cpu to 2,7 ghz ( 300 x 9 ) but when i try to oc more the computer freezes and i have to reset the computer

I dont think it is that the voltage is too low, because i added a little bit, AI booster says it is running at 1,2250 V and 2,7ghz.
I dont think it is the temperature eighter, atm i have firefox and msn messenger open, and the cpu temps are:

18 C (64 F)
core 1 34 C (93 F)
core 2 34 C (93 F)
core 3 26 C (79 F)
core 4 28 C (82 F)

Now if anyone have got about the same system and have overclocked his own machine, then please tell me what ur fps is and multiplier and voltage and all that stuff and i'll give it a go.

But any other solutions/points are always very much apperciated!

* Or if there is something *Strange* going on *

Thanx, FilluX
Those temperatures are OK for idle, but run it at load for an hour or two, then check the temperatures again.
I would advise against using any automated overclocking system, what you need to do is look in the BIOS, usually under advanced options, for the FSB or CPU frequency (default 200). Then, raise this a little at a time, testing in between for stability and checking the temperatures.. When the system becomes UNSTABLE, add a little voltage, and repeat. When the load temperatures hit around 55, or the system is unstable even with increased voltage (don't go mad with the voltage, 1.5 should be your limit) you've reached your limit.
A stress test program is Prime95 (torture test, run four INSTANCES at once, one for each core, for a few hours).
When you think you've reached your limit, run Prime95 for around 12 hours to test your stability.
If you get any errors, LOWER the speed again.
This is a fairly basic guide to overclocking, but it should set you on your way.
Hope this helps.Thanx for the reply!

I read it and some other stuff i found, but i still cant get it over 2,75 ghz...
If i put it to for example 3,1-3,6 ghz and click save and exit in BIOS, it reboots and then im unable to enter the bios or windows, so i had to remove the mobo battery and put it back...
My friend who has overclocker his own computer came to me yesterday and he couldnt either get it workin...
What might be the problem? Bad Mobo?

Is there anyone with a q6600 and a P5N32-E SLI who have overclocked it?

ThanxSorry for the double post, but has anyone got an idea what to do

Thanx!!Did you try doing it manually as opposed to using this AI booster thing?Yes, my friend and i tried. (and it is not the "vcore" / volt setting, we increased it too as you calum mentioned in your first post)Maybe the motherboard is faulty, or the CPU.
One other thing to try is to set RAM dividers so that it runs at a lower speed, the RAM could be holding you back if it's unstable at the higher speed.

Computer: Unknown Type, possibly an office computer.
256 MB of RAM
other specs unknown.
OS: Windows XP

Yesterday, while online, my computer mysteriously shut down. It STARTED back up, but strangely, it SKIPPED the usual setup/bootup screen, and went straight to the Windows loading page. It stopped when the screen went blue and said "WELCOME". I restarted the computer a few times, and eventually it went to the desktop. All of my files (pictures, music, even the regular games that come with Windows), including shortcuts, even my wallpaper was gone, excluding the recycle bin. I searched the comp, and nothing turned up for any file, and when I went to defragmentation, and I had 20% more free space than normal. I went to the local C: drive, and saw that all of the files that I had on my computer were still in there. I checked, and they all seemed intact and normal. I even tested it by loading up a game, and my saved data from it was still on the computer, proving the memory was still the same.

My father experimented with the hardware a bit, changing the hard drive with another and back and re-inserting some other parts, although it didn't seem to change anything.

I believe it could be a hard drive failure as my father believes, or a possible BIOS's problem as I read from the FAQ's, but I cannot be sure.I suggest you run a Checkdisk on the hard drive to check for any problems.
On your desktop select Start and Run...
type cmd and hit enter in the run window.
In the cmd window type chkdsk c: /R and hit enter. It will ask you whether you WANT to check the partition the next time the system restarts. Press Y and hit enter.
When you restart the computer chkdsk will run. Depending on the size of the drive this might take a while. So do it when you don't need to use the computer.
If you got more than one drive I suggest you do this for them all. Just replace c: with the drive letter. (Only do it on hard drives, not cd/dvd drives.)

So I had Windows Vista installed on this ASUS model M7K laptop I'm using. Now, until now I didn't know this laptop had a little "ambient LIGHTING" feature, where it detects how much light is around you and ADJUSTS the monitor brightness accordingly (the darker the room, the dimmer the monitor). Now this is very, very annoying and I want it DISABLED. I searched Google on how to fix this, but they're all for Ubuntu/Linux/etc. operating systems, and not for Vista.

Help would be appreciated!Depending on the LCD...there may be a button near the LCD panel...just above the keyboard...a specific function key you can use...or you may want to boot into BIOS to SEE if there is a video setting which will disable this feature.

My pc fans started running like crazy tonight then pc froze up. I bought a new video card like 3 months ago and noticed fans would RUN hard when 1st starting then would shut off. When using some video PLAYERS on certain websites or games fans would go on when system was used hard. But tonight fans would not go off and system froze screen went black. When tried to restart kept loading xp but fans were flying and would get froze on xp window. Finally i got it to work and even the fans are not running high speed now but i know something is wrong?
My big question is can a video card go bad or can it be going bad to make pc fans run like crazy? if not the video card what else could be making pc run so hard and or crash? I get no error pages and my fans never ran like crazy untill i put this new video card in. Like i said in past fan noise went away or only lasted a few minutes here and there. But tonight would not go off even after rebooting and also would not load xp for like 10 tries.
Any help or suggestions are appreciated thanks - i'm crossing my FINGERS working ok now but have feeling days are numbered. My 1st guess is video card but HOPING someone might know other things to check?what kind of computer do you have laptop or desktop? I would also check the temps too since if something is overheating the fans will run faster.Quote from: brett74 on May 27, 2008, 07:26:33 AM

what kind of computer do you have laptop or desktop? I would also check the temps too since if something is overheating the fans will run faster.