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I have an 80 gb SATA drive that I partitioned to try out the trial version from Microsoft of XP 64 bit. I installed in the normal way including the promise driver at the F6 prompt. Installation went fine, then the last REBOOT, normal bios check, post etc, then a click and the pc reboots. I never get to the welcome screen so I'm assuming that I have a bios problem. ( or am I?)
Motherboard ASUS K8V SEDeluxe - with latest bios
AMD Athlon 64 3200 CPU
2x 512mb Kingston value RAM

Could anyone help me please?Have you made any changes to the BIOS?
Exactly where do the computer reboot? At the loading screen for Windows?
Do you have 32 bit windows installed and if yes can you boot that? I changed nothing on the pc other than use Acronis to make a partition. My 32 bit installation is working fine. With the 64 bit installation I do not get as far as the normal Windows logo. It is almost as if there is a problem with the bios or it cant find the operating system, No BSOD just when you expect to see the Windows logo the pc reboots again, and so on relentless. Since this occured I upgraded the bios to 1007 but that has made no difference to my problem.I don't at this point think it's a BIOS problem since your computer can boot the 32 bit partition.
Can you enter safe mode when loading 64 bit windows? (Tap F8 repeatedly during boot up.)HI, I really appreciate your TIME on this.
I have tried booting into safe mode at which point lines of text scroll rapidly up the screen. The last line to appear before it reboots again is as follows,

multi(0)disc(0)rdisc(0)partition(2)\windows\system32acpitab.dat

after that the machine reboots. I tried the advanced options and selected dont reboot on errors to see if it gave any more info. When I hit return WITHIN a couple of seconds I got BSOD. Error message reads as follows

stop:0x0000007B(0xFFFFFADFE480F3C0,0xFFFFFFFFC0000034,0x0000000000000000,0x0000000000000000
Hope that makes some sense to youYeah great work, a stop error code is a step in the right direction.
Here's an article on the stop:0x0000007B error message, I suggest you read through it.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/324103

You said you installed a promise driver during the XP setup. Was that a 64 bit driver? You might also want to check whether you've got the latest version of that driver. THanks for the article. I read it through and I think the first thing I am going to try is to check that driver I used. I'll look for the most up to date one I can find and then try a reinstall.
I'll let you know what happensI write this from within a 64 bit environment. Thanks to you. I checked out the Promise controller driver I was using at the F6 prompt (cos of my SATA drive) and turns out the one on the ASUS website is version 1.00.1.39. At driver guide .com I found ver 1.00.1.41 and hey presto, the install went without a HITCH. Thanks again.You're welcome.
Good to hear you got it working.

So I got a computer back in the Christmas of 2005 and used it on and off between then and August of 2006. Then I had moved out and it sat until recently, May of 2008. So it wasn't used in 2007 at all.

Recently, when I had hooked it back up, it ran fine for the first few days. Then about a week later, it was randomly shutting down by itself...The lights were STILL on, on the computer itself...but nothing would appear on the screen. The monitor seems fine as it's hooked up to an older computer I have now...

could this be the battery on the motherboard that's making the computer not respond? Also, for a little more help...

After this problem began, when starting up, I would go to click on the START menu and the screen would just go blank...or if I'd try to access MY COMPUTER...it only did this a few times but other times it did not. The last time it had shut down like this was when I was listening to music and it randomly shut down as I had previously said...I didn't bother trying to restart it and just hooked up my backup computer.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated...I can't spend $75 for someone to just look at it like I've had to do before with this computer I'm using...

This is what I do know about the computer:

It's a GATEWAY, made in 2005. Has 160 GB hard drive, 512 MB RAM (I do believe)

It is a Windows XP SP2 (It came with it when bought). It has AVG antivirus on it...

It's about all I know...Like I said it's fairly new but has sat for about a year not being used...

I've searched all over for an answer but nothing really seems to match up...

Help...............!It sounds to me as if your computer may be overheating...and shutting down is its way of protecting components from being damaged.

The first thing I'd look into...clean the inside of the computer with compressed air (NOT A VACUUM CLEANER). Removing the dust and debris within your computer would be your first step.

Disconnect all cables and power from your computer and perform the above maintenance.

If your computer is still doing the same thing...get back in touch with us.Okay I will do that. I had tried it before the other day but it was so hard taking the computer apart....I'll try again to see if it works. I'll keep you posted on the progress!Pay special attention to your vents...and the dust accumulation around the processor core.Well I cleaned the computer out pretty well and got a lot of the dust out...I PLUGGED everything back in and it started right up and I got logged on...So far nothing bad...am doing another virus scan right now...just keeping my fingers crossed!Sounds like a plan...

Keep us posted...So far so good...I did a full virus scan and all is okay...I've had the computer on for a little over an hour and it hasn't shut itself off yet...

So as of now I'm guessing it's okay...if anything else comes about I'll be sure to update on the issue!

hi,

Any suggestions on how to fix a power button that is no longer working? I have windows xp home edition compaq presario 6420 nx amd athlon 2200+ 1.8 ghz. It is 5 years old. I've had some problems with my pc in the PAST ( recently my pc started making beeping noises and wouldn't load windows) but was able to fix the problem.
Now i HAVE a new problem.
I was in the middle of fixing a key board related issue with my pc when the power button failed . As I was about to turn it off, it wouldn't so I had to press on the power button for a few more seconds.. then when I pressed it back on, my pc refused to start. It wasn't getting any power ( no blinking green lights and I didn't hear fans running. What should I do? How can I restore power? I need only a couple of hours to retrieve i mportant data from pc. I need help. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.What exactly were you trying to fix about the keyboard? And how were you trying to turn it off? What was it doing that it wouldn't turn off?

What was the issue you were having before?

This could be a multitude of things. Need to know more specifically what you were doing at the time and what happened.thanks for responding

A friend of mine wanted to HOOK up her laptop to my printer so she could print something out. It was fairly simple , so I let her do it. I left the room and when I CAME back, she told me that my pc stopped working.

When I turned pc on , it started making weird beeping noises ( with 2-3 sec intervals) . On top of that my monitor was unresponsive ( the speakers were working and the power on). So I thought, STRANGE, it was working fine before, she must have pulled something or moved something from the back ofthe system unit. I pressed the power button on and off 5 or 6 times thinking that the beeping would just go away.

I went online to find more info and basically the material I came across suggested that I most likely I had a 1) hardware failure 2) dirty fans 3) overheating 4) loose ram/ video card .. and that most likely I needed to boot from start up disk and reinstall windows

.. So I stumbled upon this site and I read somewhere tthat the keyboard or monitor could be casuing the beeping sound( my pc probably was unable to recognize either , so that is why it started beeping) . So I re connected everything( making sure nothing was loose), moved the sytem unit to a more spacious area ( I did this while the it was off). Then when I turned it back on, everything went back to normal.

My new problem started when I decided to reconnect the dsl lines to the system unit . I thought everything would be fine ( I make sure the cords running through the back were not tangled etc..) but when I turned my pc on again, the beeping resumed ( and blank screen came back). I used power button to restart comp 3 times , then something flashed on my monitor " keyboard error , unrecognizable " something along those lines. So I turned pc off to make sure my keyboard adapter was firmly in place( and the monitor as well), then when I pressed the power button on, it still kept on beeping. I reconnected keyboard adapter like in 6-7 cycles turning pc off and on and still beeping.

That is when I pressed the power button off, the green light just didn't go away even when I stopped pressing, so I had to hold it down for 3-5 seconds longer until pc was completely shut off. When I tried to turn it back on, it wouldn't. And so, I don't know how to restore power button function., Infact, I don't even know what happened, did I shock comp? will it ever work again? pls. help if you can .l thanks.

btw my pc is 5 years old, i haven't upgraded hardware. I use it for very simple purposes, no gaming or media editing whatsoever. The worst thing that happened prior to this was when I got some viruses and spyware from P2P networks but I cleaned those up already.

I DREADFULLY need an external harddrive for my laptop as I've packed the thing full. I was thinking of getting one and putting my games on it. I play quite graphic intensive games such as bioshock, assassins creed, half life, the witcher, crysis, and stuff like that. I payed a lot for my laptop LOL. My question is if I were to get a external hard drive and install my games would PLAYING them off that affect their performance enough to discourage the use of an external hard drive for that?Yes you will TAKE a performance hit running them from an external drive.
Generally SPEAKING Desktop rigs are the best for gaming...

I UNDERSTAND the DIFFERENCES for the most part. That is, DDR2 uses a 4-bit prefetch versus DDR1's 2. Data rate begins at 400-667 for DDR2 versus DDR1 ends at 400, and ETC, etc...

my questions is: Is there a definitive VISIBLE difference in the two? Is there a hole or notch in the side or on the pins that makes it easy to differentiate?

thanks!DDR is 184 pins. DDR2 is 240 pins. Each has a single notch, but it's LOCATED in a different place on each type.

Wikipedia has a page for each type, including descriptions of the physical differences.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR_SDRAM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR2

I am using Windows Vista and just recently purchased a psp SLIM for my son. We tried to transfer some music files from my computer ONTO his psp using his memory stick duo pro and I keep getting the ERROR "this disk is write protected". My question is how do I remove the write protection from the memory stick duo? I have researched this some and keep getting that I need to turn the switch "lock" off on the memory card. This memory card (purchased in December) does not have a switch.

Any help with this would be so much APPRECIATED!!! Thank you.Check this registry key:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\StorageDevicePolicies
"WriteProtect"=00000000
You may have it set to "1"

And that is weird why? 40 C is fine. Mine idles on 45CQuote

if your room/case temperature is 20C and your idling with a CPU that consumes 10watts in idling, by using heatsink thermal resistance of 0.30 C/W, you get 20C + 10 X 0.30 = 20 + 3 = 23C... But when your CPU is at full usage and consumes 100 watts, you get 20C + 100 x 0.30 = 50C at full load...

please helpwhat is 800 mhz on your motherboard, the max memory SPEED or the max FSB speed??on the box it says ddr2 800/ 667/ 533 sdram four slots dual channel, it also says supports dual chanel 800 memory Im just worried it might burn out WHATS your opinionDon't worry, you're not damaging them. As long as it's ddr2 ram the motherboard can use them. They're just clocked down to 800 mhz since that is the max speed the MB supports.^ what deerpark said. your RAM will work with your motherboard, but not at full speed.thanks to all who replied
makes my LIFE better knowing I won't have a burn out

Hi guys ! this is my first post dont kill me.. I really confused by now.. the massive marked of confusion also know as computer marked drives me insane.. I need help now... What you guys thing of this computer setup, im planning on buying it.. right now as it is its about 6000 danish kroner.. thats 1000 dollas aprox, and anything above that hurt me inside



Motherboard: (ABIT Fatal1ty FP-IN9 SLI)
LGA775 Socket / NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI / 1333 MHz / ATX / DDR II SDRAM
7.1 surroundkanal
Netværksadapter / Ethernet / Fast Ethernet / Gigabit Ethernet
Socket 775 / 2 x PCI-32 / 4 x PCI-Express / 4 x DDR2-RAM
1 x RJ-45 / 2 x PS/2 / 4 x USB 2.0 / 6 x Audio
4 x Hi-Speed USB
supports NVIDIA SLI-tek
storage:Serial ATA-300 (RAID), ATA-133
2 x ATA, 4 x SATA
USB Port config: 8 x USB
ATA-133
Raid: RAID 0 / RAID 1 / RAID 0+1 / RAID 5 / JBOD
NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI

_______________________________________ ________
Case (AeroCool AeroEngine II-BBP)
Miditower / 2 fans
number of bays with front entrance: 6
fans pre installed: 2
internel bays: 5
switches on the front: USB/FireWire/Audio
6x3.5" Intern / 1x3.5" Ekstern / 4x5.25" Ekstern
fans size: 2x80 mm

_______________________________________ _________
CPU(Core 2 Duo E6750 2.66 GHz)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 2.66 GHz / 1333 MHz
Cache: 4 MB L2

_______________________________________ _________

GRAPHIC card (Zotac NVIDIA GeForce 8800GT Amp! Edition)
PCI-E 2.0 512MB GDDR3 Grafikkort (G92)
- Core clock på 700 MHz.
- Memory clock på 2000 MHz.
- Overclocket fra producenten.
- 2 x Dual-Link.
- DVI-I, HDTV og TV Out.
- Understøtter Microsoft DirectX 10.
- OPENGL 2.0.
- Shader Model 4.0.
- SLI ready.
- PCI Express 2.0.
- 512MB GDDR3 RAM.

_______________________________________ _________

400W Powersupply unit (NorthQ 4001AL Metallic Blue PSU)
(NorthQ 4001AL Metallic Blue PSU)
400W

_______________________________________ __________
4 GB RAM
(GeIL Ultra Series DDR2 2 x 1 GB)
2 x 1 GB (2 GB) / DUAL RAM / DDR II SDRAM / PC2-6400CL4 / 800 MHz /
DIMM 240-pins
Hello....word of advice in future postings is not to include what may seem like demands like "I need help now..." and not so many smileys...

Beyond that, I myself have this same motherboard and am RUNNING a Pentium 4 HT 2.8 Ghz on it and its a good fast motherboard. This MB is perfect for a gamer who wants to overclock etc.

Since I am not familiar with your economy since I dont know what the mark up is for imported goods, I could only suggest that the price of $1000 USD looks to be about right with all the hardware.

Only suggestion I have is that if you are going to go SLI, you will want more than a 400Watt power supply. I'd get a 550W or larger that will fit your case. I've seen 400W power supplies drop out in SLI graphic demands.

Good Luck!

Davehey cultura, here a few things to consider...

- motherboard:

i suggest a 680i SLI board, but if your budget cant take it, a 650i is fine.

-power supply

i would suggest at least a 500W

besides those two things, everything looks fine.

Greetings. A friend gave me a scsi array from an HP9000 server. i have the controller CARD in my PC but I am having trouble getting it all to work properly. Is it at all possible to RUN this array on an XP system? I once was able to view and format 3 of the 8 drives, but now I see nothing. Please help and thanks in advance...

GhostQuote from: lolerskates on May 27, 2008, 05:55:40 PM

you GOTA download cheatengine 5.4 and search the values and change em then you can read the sci thingo, it workd on my dos computer that roxors and its 1337z0rz...

Quote from: lolerskates on May 27, 2008, 05:55:40 PM

you gota download cheatengine 5.4 and search the values and change em then you can read the sci thingo, it workd on my dos computer that roxors and its 1337z0rz...

disregard this nonsense.

I bought a COMPAQ C552US laptop, which came standard with Windows Vista. I wanted XP instead, so I did a clean install with a full format. EVERYTHING was okay until I realized that my audio and wireless were dead. Previously, they had been functioning fine. I tried to download drivers for them, the drivers that HP provides on their website (I searched "C552US"). I could install the driver for my wireless but I could not install the driver for my audio. I was given the error message that there was no device to install the driver on, as if the audio device was not connected! My wireless is a Realtek RTL8139 and the driver was, as mentioned, installed successfully. However, my computer does not recognize that my wireless is in fact connected and gives me the "Network cable unplugged" error. I have the devices enabled but the computer claims that they are not connected. This is QUITE the dilemna. What should I do?Use the driver disk that came with the laptop instead of DLoaded drivers.There were none that came with the laptop Why not ? ?

All laptops ship with a restore CD and a driver CD...I've seen brand name laptops that shipped with neither patio. Think restore partitions and drivers from the manufacturer's site.Well it's been a year since my last laptop purchase so i guess i'm out of the loop on this one...Quote from: Tamashii on AUGUST 25, 2007, 10:13:19 PM

I bought a Compaq C552US laptop, which came standard with Windows Vista. I wanted XP instead, so I did a clean install with a full format. Everything was okay until I realized that my audio and wireless were dead. Previously, they had been functioning fine. I tried to download drivers for them, the drivers that HP provides on their website (I searched "C552US"). I could install the driver for my wireless but I could not install the driver for my audio. I was given the error message that there was no device to install the driver on, as if the audio device was not connected! My wireless is a Realtek RTL8139 and the driver was, as mentioned, installed successfully. However, my computer does not recognize that my wireless is in fact connected and gives me the "Network cable unplugged" error. I have the devices enabled but the computer claims that they are not connected. This is quite the dilemna. What should I do?

I purchased a Packard Bell Desk top Istart 2479 ,serial No.128264350300, from PC WORLD, branch 4881, on Feb. 03 2007. I thought I had registered it but have no luck in trying to access the Web support.

I made a backup disk at the time but it stopped at one disk. I have been trying to get it to complete but it tells me I have done it already. I would be grateful if anyone could inform me of any solution to this impasse?

Packard Bell is not known for good support.... but beyond that, if you get nowhere with Packard Bell and need to reinstall your operating system, you may be looking at buying a new full install of your OS.

Usually like HP, you can get a hold of someone even if in INDIA and pay $35 for a restore package. HOPEFULLY Packard Bell has the same option without telling you sorry we cant help you!

DaveDid you call them?THANKS guys that was great. It gave me courage to launch out on a NATIONAL call rate. and in 5mins I had the answer.
Because I'd used a DVD and not a CD it was all there on one disk.
Maybe Packard Bell can be OK sometimes!
Thanks for posting back.

h e l l- o am new here, any who my question is: One of my computers I use for recording purposes. after having ran a project in one of my recording programs the page file is reporting over 1.25 GB. I CLOSE the recording program but the page file remains HIGH(1.25gb) shouldn't it "RESET" after I close the recording program? Now the only WAY it "resets" is after a reboot after having closed the recording program is this normal? any INFO would be greatly appreciated.........thanksYes the pagefile is reset only on re-boot...

If you are sure these changes happened by themselves you may want to replace the CMOS battery...



Part # CR 2032 available almost anywhere.
As always when working inside the case remove all power and take anti-static precautions.
Be careful not to break the spring clip that holds the battery in place.i removed the RAM sticks clean & reinserted. but still the problem persist.Follow Patio's suggest too.i replaced the CSOM battery, but still same problem. should i shift the two RAM chips to other slot? why this problem occured?The only things left I can think of are that either the motherboard is going bad or the memory is.I am using 2 memory sticks of 256 DDR RAM chips. (Total – 516 MB). I tried to boot computer using one by one. I found that computer is not booting with one of the RAM sticks. This may be is creating the problem. If I want to replace the sticks, which one the latest RAM should I buy which will fit in my motherboard? There r four slots for RAM in my mother board.The computer was booting with one and not the other?

You can check www.crucial.com or www.intel.com for information about that board's memory capabilities.

If I remember right from the two I have of that model:

DDR266 if system bus is 800MHz, 533MHz, or 400MHz
DDR333 if system bus is 800MHz or 533MHz (gets underclocked to 320MHz)
DDR400 if system bus is 800MHz

The memory information for that board can be found HERE
I just verified the information about speeds there. Surprised I can still remember that, I've had these boards for years. Anyway, check that page for more complete information and check your bus speed.thanx all of U for ur expert advice. but when i make the power on the computer starts directly without pressing the power button & the screen of BIOS setup UTILITY comes. how to solve this problem.I seem to remember my D865PERL boards (one of them at least) doing that at one point. Can't remember of the top of my head why. Might be the BIOS setting about rebooting after a power failure. it OK now, only it gives messege that it is running on single RAM. will change new RAM soon. thanx any way.i changed the defective RAM with another 256 MB RAM stick, BUT NOW IT IS SHOWING MESSEGE DDR 320 OPERATING IN SINGLE CHANNEL MODE. may both RAM sticks not matching?They need to be a MATCHED pair and installed in every other slot DEPENDING on the board layout...

Hello

I have a laptop which seems unable to READ from a CD ROM (the Toshiba internal diagnostics tool reports 'fail').

How can I determine if the CD-ROM drive needs to be replaced, or whether this is a driver problem?

Thanks

SteveQuote

I have a laptop which seems unable to read from a CD ROM

I would suggest updating the driver as a start.



Steve.......You stole my chance

I started my computer today and it will not load. It goes to the first screen where it checks everything and it only shows the processor being recognized. It does not load PAST that. I don't know if it is a motherboard problem or hard DRIVE or something else. It worked fine yesterday with no problems. Any ideas??
Please provide us with as much information as you can about your computer...

1. All hardware
2. What operating system?
3. What led up to your problem
4. What you've done to try to correct the problemm/b is NVIDIA nForce 3 250 CHIPSET, DDR 400
Athelon 64 3000+ processor
1gb ram
GForce 512mb graphics card
Sound BLASTER sound card

Windows XP home

The system worked fine last night; SHUT down properly and then this afternoon when I turned it on it would not load anything.
I have tried starting it in safe mode and can not get into that. it just stops after it recognizes the processor.

Print out the page patio linked to:
QUOTE from: patio on January 14, 2008, 06:49:23 PM

Try This...

I am trying to install a Raedon X1300 Pro 256MB PCI-E ONTO my board that has a Raedon Xpress 200 chipset. I have the most recent ATI drivers with Catalyst Control Center installed. When I put the card in, I was getting a lot of green lines that seemed to be shadows of things that were already on the screen. I removed the card, made sure no DUST was in the PCI-E slot, reinstalled, and got the same thing. I tried some of the suggestions on the main CH site, but to no avail. I have a haunting suspicion that it's a bad card (eBay), but wanted to check here first JUST in case it's not! Any suggestions?

P4 3.0gHz
2gig DDR2-667
Windows XPThe best way to determine if it's actually the card at fault is to install it in another MACHINE; install the drivers and see if it does the same thing...if so it's the card.Thanks. I just MIGHT have a hard time finding another comp with PCI-E. No one I know has it

I should have also mentioned that the card itself was loose in the slot. It came out very easily, which is SOMETHING I've never experienced with a regular PCI slot before. Is this normal or should the card sit a little more firmly in the slot?On my computer when I installed my video card (also PCI-E) I had to push it in until it clicked into place. Maybe you're not pushing it in all the way?Did you reinstall the ATI drivers or just try to use the drivers that were already on the computer for the on-board ATI card?

I suggest you try uninstalling the driver, inserting the card, then reinstalling the ATI Catalyst driver after you've booted into Windows with the new card.

Thank you for having this forum AVAILABLE. I still have a lot to learn about computers and I appreciate the HELP. I built a PC four years ago and it has worked fine ever since, until recently. I don't know what the problem is, or what to do next. I hope someone can help. I will try to keep this brief:

1. In order to get the Netflix player to work for viewing movies online, Netflix tech support had me use Internet Explorer and disable all security measures. So possibly this problem involves a virus, though I don't have any direct evidence for this.

2. About a month later, I began getting an error when I turned on the PC. An Energy Star screen came up, which I normally never SAW, and said "Hit F4" for the BIOS Menu, then things like "detecting master" and "detecting slave". Finally it went to a screen that said "Disk Boot Failure" though I had no disks in any drives. After this I had to restart the computer to get it to work. So I am thinking the hard drive was failing.

3. Finally it got to the point where NOTHING powered up. No FANS, nothing on the screen, not even the little green light on the motherboard. Then I was thinking power supply, but after I let it the computer sit for a couple of weeks, all the other power came back on--fans, motherboard light, etc., it just won't boot.

4. I tried to re-install everything from disks but nothing happened. I can't find my boot floppy anywhere. Is there some way to get this hard drive to work again, or even test it, or will I have to buy a new one? I'm not sure what to do next, and I'm hoping for an inexpensive solution.

Details about my PC:
* dual boot Windows XP Home SP2 and Linux, Hoary HEDGEHOG version
* Asus A7V8X-X motherboard
* AMD Athlon XP 2500+ CPU
* Maxtor 80 GB HD
* CD/DVD drive
* floppy drive
* DSL internet

It's almost embarrassing how basic my little system is, but I really need to get it working again. Thank you.Try replacing your power supply with a known working one. Sounds like the one you've got is giving up the ghost.Nothing to be embarrassed about with your system! Sure, the bells and whistles are fun, but they also have potential for more to go wrong. Use what you have; use what you need.

My pc fans went nuts last night and when i went to reboot pc to see if video site i was using caused the problem my pc would only freeze up on xp screen for about an hour. When i got it going i found this site and made a post about my fans and was told heat problem most likely and to get speedfan to check heat. I did and avg temp is 50 but goes up to 70s whenever looking at a site that taxes system. I can also min this browser window and move it around my screen and watch temp rise on speedfan.
This is my pc: compaq s4300nx pentium 4 2.40 ghz- 2gb ram

Things ive tried - did hd test all passed -did memory test - cleaned out pc- checked fans both are working and are clean-cleaned out temp files- i replaced video card with 1 that was in it 4 months ago thinking that might be it -wasn't. no new programs or software has been put on pc in weeks but i did do a system restore back to sunday incase i did do something mon.
When im writing this temp is 49 but if i go to any other page it rises and if i click or do enouth the fans kick in. I have no clue what temps or what to look for with s-fan but was told max temp should be like 69-70 - i have passed that today and will again if don't figure this out. I'm lost and clueless if anyone has some ideas please post them thank you.I would consider getting a better Heatsink and Fan. I would also use a good thermal paste. You already have a posts regarding this topic, so why another post?Causes of excessive heat:
- Dust inside the computer. Dust problems are made worse if the computer is on a carpeted floor.
- A new component, like a hard drive, has been added. The extra component causes the power supply to work harder and generate more heat. Extra heat also radiates off the new component and adds to the temperature inside the case.
- Some cooling fans may slow down and wear over time, depending on the usage of the computer.
- High ambient room temperature.

I agree with replacing the heat sink.

Here is a document based on your computer type that may help: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07153&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=325363
I checked out that hp page and heatsink i guess is only thing that could be bad since HARDWARE has not been added to pc and all test done on hardware say they are working good?
I have NEVER replaced a heatsink but wonder why a piece of metal could go bad?? I don't know much about them but aren't they just metal HOOKED to chip?? Can't it be cleaned with something and reinstalled if so where would i find info on doing that?? If can not be cleaned where can i order 1 online and the paste to INSTALL with? No stores around me to go pick up new sink if needed so if you have link to get what i need would be a help.
Thanks for help if have any other reasons for getting hot please write.Those things get hosed all the time cuz temperature is a sensitive variant, and he's right about getting a good thermal paste. Check the website for specs and replacement parts and you can order them online basically anywhere that sells components. The compaq/hp website should have a guide/manual explaining how to replace it somewhere. If you cant find a guide, you can check this out. i think this site goes into detail in heatsinks: http://www.heatsink-guide.com/

Really hope that helps! this website has really helped me out and i hope i can give back a bit.

Well thanks to this site and the great help i am a happy guy today !!!

Heatsink had to be problem had a ton of dust in it when i got to it. I cleaned that up super good and triple cleaned out pc which cured overheat problems. I am proud to say my pc now stays avg 36 and HIGHEST seen so far is 42-43c.
Thanks to everyone that helped - this is a special site glad i found it and i'll stop back often.
I told you, you'll get some great help from other people, didn't I?

I HAVE WIN 98 OPERATING SYSTEM. COMPUTER WILL REBOOT AND SHOW DISC SCAN WHRE SYSTEM WAS SHUT DOWN IMPROPERLY AND CONTINUE TO THE WHITE SCREEN DISPLAYING THE 98 OPERATING SYSTEM LOGO. THEN THE SCREEN WILL GO COMPLETELY BLACK AND ALL OF THE LIGHTS ON MY TERMINAL FLASH IN UNISON.

I HAVE TRIED TO REBOOT ( EVEN UNPLUG) OVER & OVER BUT KEEPS GETTING THE SAME RESULTS.

MY COMPUTER KNOWLEDGE IS LTD SO I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO

PLEASE HELP!!!

Quote

Where's the motherboard connector?

Sorry, I'm not very FLUENT with this..

Ok when i restart my computer its like all my stuff has been lost except FILES. I change background and it goes BACK to the DEFAULT one. ALSO When i install my driver it says restart computer so i do and it says i DIDNT install a driver so i install it agian this time i dotn retart so the grapic card works but when i do i have to install the driver again. Anyone know why and how to fix itTry getting rid of Steam for a few days and see if things improve.First of all let us know what OS you are using ?

hi there.. i am facing some problems..

i am currently troubleshooting my computers..and seems LIKE the CPU fan it not working..can any ONE diagonse this problem....the PSU is working..then MB has power...thanks in advance..! Can the computer boot up?
When did this problem start?
Also, what are the full system specs? What kind of CPU is it? Different fans for different CPUs.

Along with Deerpark's QUESTION of whether or not the computer works properly:

CPU fans need to be connected to the motherboard for power. Check this connection. Has a large amount of dust accumulated on the fan? This can cause it to jam. With the power off, turn the CPU fan with your fingers and make sure it isn't stuck.

If it has power and doesn't appear to be jammed, it may have just died (it happens). Depending on the CPU, these are usually replaceable. (Some older CPUs like versions of the Pentium II had a built-on fan that couldn't be changed). If everything else is working just fine, purchase a new fan. LIMIT your use of the computer until you can replace it to avoid overheating.

Hi guys! i was just wondering, because im GETTING SLI sometime, is it possible to have
1 8800 gts 320mb and one 8800gts 640MB? (same manufactor)

or do they both have to be 8800gts 320 mb?

thanxYou can but it is not recommended.
If you install a 8800 gts with 320 mb RAM and a 8800 gts with 640 mb RAM then both cards will use the lower of the two memory sizes. So both will only use 320 mb RAM and the last 320 mb on the card with 640 will essentially be wasted.Allright, but is it possible to get another 8800gts 320 mb but fromanother manufacor? (same core/memory clocks)
Yes as long as the GPUs match the manufacturer shouldn't matter.
Allright THANX man!:)You're welcome. Happy shopping and have fun with your new card when you get one.

Have Sony VAIO UCV... and periodically (more and more frequently) the drive doors refuse to open.

They always open if there is media in there and sometimes one will open and the other not.

For a while I could always GET the DVD-ROM (Pioneer DVD-117R) to open if I opened the CD first.

?? Rebooting does not help and I don't see a way to MANUALLY open them (no place to stick a pen point or ANYTHING).

They will also work after a system recovery, but right now I can't get the disc in to perform one. Any ideas appreciated. I don't know if this would help or not, but I would make sure you have all the latest drivers for those drives and if so it may just be time to think about getting a replacement drive?There should be a pinhole on the front of each drive...a straightened out paper clip pushed in there gently will open the drive in an emergency.
But they should open and close normally and i don't believe this is a driver issue....
How old are the drives ? ?There are no pinholes. I uninstalled the drive and rebooted and, after re-installing, the DVD-ROM door opened. But now windows won't recognize the CD-RW drive (F:). I don't get it.

I tried to update the drivers, but it just kept spinning its wheels. That's when I tried re-installing the drive. At least now I can get a disc in and recover if necessary. Fortunately I backed up everything when it was the F drive that was working. But I'll have to keep discs in to keep them from disappearing again. Why would that matter?

oh, forgot to add- the drives are 5 years old. quite honestly, i would simply buy new drives. with SATA DVD burners being only $30 each, its not worth the headache of trouble-shooting them.I'm with homer on this one. Optical drives don't have a very long life expectancy. Although some will last quite awhile, 5 years sounds about average for drives to start failing. Many don't even last that long. If I were you, I would shop around on Newegg a BIT...new drives are actually quite reasonable.If they don't have pinholes they're way older than 5 years...every one i ever saw had them.Had the same problem with a 5 year old CDROM drive and found that if I whacked the top of the PC case with my FIST it opened right a way! However, my tech friends tell me this method of opening the unit is rather frowned upon, delicate internal components or some such crap. What use is a machine that you can't punch once in a while [ thank god keyboards are cheap]. Sounds like you have the same Sony Vaio that I have pcv-rx650.
I have the same problem and now I can't even get them doors open. All the little tricks I used to get them open stopped working. Thank goodness I have 4 other computer. I been asking how to fix this for at least a year. The computer still runs nice and smooth the only trouble I have ever had since buying it feb 28,2002 at circut city is that the drives are stuck. I will be watching this post to see if someone doesn't know how to fix this. Good luck to you.The advice has been given...replace the drives.
They are relatively inexpensive right now...a dual-layer DVD burner can be had for 40 bucks shipped from newegg if you're in the States.

Hi.....does anyone know of a sound card that has separate outlets for left and RIGHT speakers RATHER the usual single plug outlet??I'm using the on-board soundcard on my ASUS A8N-SLI Premium motherboard and have tried a number of plugs but the right channel drops out/crackles often, this can usually be fixed [temporarily] by re- inserting the plug a few times. ASUS blames the leads / plugs I'm using but I've tried different ones with the same results. Am considering getting a separate sound card but the ones I've seen so far have just the single outlet for left&right speakers.

Any help appreciated!

TIA.......MirageSo ASUS doesn't WANT to cough up for a new board.

I've used some on board sound CARDS, and a number of PCI slot cards, and never had a problem with the PCI cards I've installed.It looks more like on-board sound port problem, then lead problem. Separate sound card should fix it.http://www.soundblaster.com/products/

These are good cards.
By the way, make SURE you go into CMOS and disable your onboard sound before you install a new sound card.

Greetings.
What does it take, if at all possible, to move a hard drive over from an IBM laptop to a Toshiba Laptop, and leave everything in tact? (Can it even be done?)I realize that each system has their own sets of drivers, etc. However, they also both have the ability to recognize a C drive. I have an IBM T30, loaded with XP Pro. I would like to move it over onto a Toshiba Satellite Pro 6K. I initially tried to, but all I GET is a small blinking prompt.
The IBM drive was installed with a Windows disk; I DID NOT REINSTALL FROM AN IBM PARTITION. IN FACT, THAT PARTITION IS NOT ON THIS DRIVE. I labeled C as typical "Local Disk C". I installed all drivers manually. Also, this drive has a PowerQuest version of PartitionMagic installed, and I split the drive in half (total 120g). The new second drive is "Local Disk D", Prim, Ext. Operating sys has just about all the important service packs and updates. It is also protected with Symantec Corp Version 8.00.9374, which is only virus protection, and the most recent free ZoneAlarm. The administrator has a password.
I am way beyond novice, but I am not a pro. If I need to hijack drive info, then I'll go ahead get what I need to do that, and post. I'm thinking that this can't be done, but then again, maybe it can with a little work. I can't seem to find anything addressing it in cyberspace (which is KIND of weird, I can't be the only guy who has wanted to try this...). Thanks.Quote

I'm thinking that this can't be done, but then again, maybe it can with a little work.

XP will realize it is on a totally different machine and insist on being activated

As far as problems down to the lowest level… what are we talking… bios?

I mean, Windows is Windows. It doesn’t care what machine it is on.

As you can see, I am very determined here…

Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 26, 2008, 07:04:03 PM

XP will realize it is on a totally different machine and insist on being activated

Except a corporate edition of XP Pro Which explains why a company's IT staff can install on one machine, adjust the setup just right, and then transfer its installation via a Ghost image to a large number of identical machines. It also explains why naughty people like the corporate edition.

I mean, Windows is Windows. It doesn’t care what machine it is on.

Far better to learn from the experience of others".

Much time has passed. And then you the "Chosen One" appear. Let us know how it goes.
Move Current Hard Drive to a New Windows XP System

I was assuming our friend here wasn't naughty.

i have a MSI K9N6GM motherboard with a AMD64 Sempron 3200. was installed into a case. worked fine. HEN shut it down one day. will not start up again. when the power button is presse the internal fan and CPU fan spins, bbut no other lights or power. all cables have been tested in other computers, as have the power supply. the powe supply is a basic 250 watt. which is more then enough to power the motherboard, DVD drive and HD. how do i check or find out where the issue with the board could be without taking it to a store? thank you250 Watts is pushing it for almost any modern system.

What are your full system specs? (INCLUDING ALL hardware)

Go to this page and use the calculator. What does it say your total is approximately?
http://www.journeysystems.com/?powercalcWith a Sempron 3200 and other components you have probably exceeded your PSU requirements or the PSU is on it's way out...
Don't replace it with a 20 dollar special though.Well, with that processor and board, I made a guess at what he might be running and came up with over 250 and that was being very generous.Quaxo you've always been the generous sort....!

I have just finished my new computer build and im having a problem. The first time i turned it on everything was fine. i loaded windows and it was still ok for a few hours, loaded all the drivers and still fine. then when i restarted it froze at the windows loading SCREEN. now when i try to turn it on i get nothing. no BEEPS from the motherboard or anything. i'm still getting power to all components, fans and hardware. i switched the PSU, same problem. then i switched the video card with the one from my old machine, this seemed LIKE it fixed the problem. it loaded windows fine with my old video card the first time. i restarted it and it froze at the windows loading screen. now its doing the same thing as it was doing with my new card. i tried my new PSU on my old machine and it works fine. the processor is installed correctly with an aftermarket heatsink/fan. im THINKING its the mobo, or possibly the processor....any help would be greatly appreciated.
asus p5e mobo
intel e8400
2 gb corsair ram
700w PSU
750gb seagate hd
xfx 8800gts
Does your motherboard have onboard video?nope no onboard video

Here's an odd question I was ASKED today that I just didn't know the answer to:

"Is it possible to modify the hardware or change the driver for an older Sony Memory Stick reader so it will read the newer Pro and Pro Duo versions?"

My guess is no, but I said I'd look into it. I guess they have an older Sony laptop with a built in card reader, but a newer Sony camera. ANYONE have any thoughts on this?Unless they have released a firmware FLASH for that UNIT i doubt this is possible...
What does Sony's site have to say ? ?
Sometimes a quick e-mail to tech support for issues like this are quicker than searching for hours...Yeah, I was searching around but it's hard to word it right and find what I'm looking for.

I hadn't thought about e-mailing them, I might RECOMMEND he do that (or I might just do it myself). I do agree with you though, I doubt it's possible.

I have a Genius ColorPage-Vivid 3XE scanner and as of late whatever I scan with it it comes out red in colour. For example if I scan a WHITE paper document, the document gets scanned but the whole thing appears in a red transparency. Please help. I reinstalled drivers but no use. I even HOOKED up the scanner to another PC and the same thing happens.Does the scanner have any kind of self-test MODE you can try?

If it's RGB (Red-Blue-Green), it SEEMS like you've lost two colors...not SURE of that...just thinking out loud...

Patio. I thought that multisession while burning means that I can BURN one file at a time until the CD is full or until I finalize it. If this is not the case I will leave this subject at rest. Thanks for your time and effort.That's correct.
However the difference between multi session and packet writing is that a multi session CD won't be able to be read by anything other than the burning software until it's FINALISED...

Sounds LIKE i've only managed to confuse the issue here...

If the hangup is still the DVD-R issue i would try a few DIFFERENT brands of blank media if this hasn't already been suggested...

I was told i can put in 1GB of Ram into a ATX CM 33 TL SKT 370 DFI Board,running a Celeron 1Ghz Tualatin CPU....There are two slots for RAM,do you have to add equal amounts to each side?? or could you RUN say 512 on one side and maybe less on the other? Just curious...
ThanksYep that is not problem.
It is best however to use RAM of the same brand and most importantly of the same clock SPEED and timing.
If you use RAM with different clock speeds all of it will run at the slowest speed.So if i put 512 in one slot and say 250 in the other slot,the RAM won't be at 762??
Thanks..ps: so you say it will run at the slowest speed?? being 250 say??Quote from: Deerpark on January 13, 2008, 06:42:01 PM

Yep that is not problem.
It is best however to use RAM of the same brand and most importantly of the same clock speed and timing.
If you use RAM with different clock speeds all of it will run at the slowest speed.

So if i put 512 in one slot and say 250 in the other slot,the RAM won't be at 762??

I want to add one or two 512 mb sticks of ram,what type do i need? sdrm,ddr etc?...

Also would you know of what i might be paying for this??
Would you know Canadian prices?

i have a dell latitude ls laptop with toshiba xm-1902b cd-rom external drive that wants to format EVERY music cd or information cd that is put into it. if i INSERT a blank cd the cd-rom does not recognize that it is even there.Sounds LIKE the external drive is defective. Is it under warranty? If so, take it back to where you got it and get it EXCHANGED. Also, have you tried it on another computer?

ALAN <><

I am building a custom computer and I have MSI P35D3 Platinum LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard which I think maybe the problem. However once i ASSEMBLED it and tried to install Windows Vista an error MESSAGE comes up and displays something about it FAILING and something that a hardware or sorftware change maybe the problem or something like that. any information or help will be helpful. here is a list of everything in the rig.

Motherboard = HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130096

Video Card = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814143080

Processor = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115043

Hard Drive = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148136

Power Supply = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817190012

Dvd Drive = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106079

Windows = http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116488
What RAM do you have?
And what is the exact error message you are seeing?

Hello, My laptop has a completely dark screen however, I have been using an external monitor which ALLOWS me to see everything just fine. Any SUGGESTIONS? Could it be the backlight?Check for shortcut keys that control the brightness of your screen. Also try the laptop plugged in and unplugged to check if it's a power management issue.
However, I think your inverter may have GONE - this supplies power to the screen.My friend told me his laptop had this same problem a few days ago. The backlight isn't on and but you can still see stuff on the screen.
We went to my friend in the computer store and he replaced the Screen Inverter. Everything worked fine after that.And SOMETIMES it's reasonable...and sometimes it's not WORTH it.
Depends on the model and you can only determine the rest...

ok, im starting to have this problem and it is starting to worry me. Every couple hours my computer will make a loud screech sound, it usually lasts a second. My computer's hard drive is a Seagate ST3250624A 250 Gb. I dont have any real impotant stuff in here yet as its fairly new... Is there anything I can do or is this hard drive already bye bye??Hard drives should not make any noise. Run Seagate's SeaTools diagnostics available from here.

Good luck2 suspects...vid card fan or PSU fan.As per Dusty's reply run Run Seagate's SeaTools diagnostics on it.
I would however make a backup of the drive or at least your important files as a matter of urgency. While the problem might turn out not to be the drive a backup is still a good precaution just in case.I don't think its the hard drive because it would be constant noise while the hard drive is in use. Its most likely power supply, when I had that problem I would hit the pc case couple of times and the noise would stop; I kept doing that until the noise wouldn't stop so I went out and got myself a new power supply.That hard drive "ST3250624A" is notorious for screeching noises.

I swore off Seagate all together. I'll never touch another one in my life, period!

There whole line of BARRACUDA drives are doing it. I have experience with the 250Gb and 320Gb. I bought 20-25 of them and at least half of them did what you are talking about right out of the box. I RMA'd most of them, but kept a couple that were making the noise. To their defense, they are still running fine after 1 year. But, they do still make the occasional screech noise.

When talking to Seagate on two different occasions, they act clueless about any "noise" there hard drives are making. Any manufacturer who is selling hundreds of thousands of inproperly designed drives that are making noise in the NUMBERS that I saw personally, and then denies they know anything about strange screeching noises, doesn't DESERVE my business, or yours!

I used to stand by Seagate and their 5 year warranty.. However, even if it is the same company, I stand by WESTERN Digital now, and have not had any problems with them what so ever.

On a final note, these Seagate drives run excessively hot, and I have always had to INSTALL an additional fan blowing directly over the drives for fear that the drive would fail due to heat.

I had a windows corruption on my SATA Samsung SP2504C HD and bought a new SATA HD, Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 to use as my OS. I installed XP on the seagate and it runs. Now, I want to install the samsung and transfer files over to the seagate HD, but the computer won't start windows with both drives connected.
Seagate HD is selected in BIOS as the boot priority, but it won't GIVE me any options beyond that.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!You MAY consider getting a USB to SATA converter to connect the drive to your USB port. Then you can use windows explorer to find the data on the old hard drive.

http://search.cablestogo.com/?qu=usb+to+sata&c=y1If you want to do this as you have stated there are 2 options:
First wipe the new drive and unplug it.
Then USING your XP CD do a Repair Install of XP.
Once completed then hook up the new SATA and use the SeaTools utility to clone the now repaired drive to the Seagate drive.
When finished unhook the Samsung and move the SATA connectors for the Seagate to ths SATA1 CONNECTOR formerly occupied by the Samsung.
Leave the Samsung unplugged for now and re-boot.
If you followed all the steps your old Windows install including data and Programs will now boot successfully off the new drive.
You can now format the Samsung and use it for storage.

The 2nd option is a clean install of everything on the new drive and then migrate the data off the old drive...

Any RECOMMENDATIONS for a capture card? My price range is $50 or lower.www.tigerdirect.com has some for under $50, but the one I bought for $19.99 was a pain to get working. Made in CHINA and Bad Documentation. I got what I paid for, troubles at first getting it to work, and its so so now. Not top of the line quality, but it does the TRICK. DPI is kind of grainy!!!
OK I just realized something, I don't know if this will work. The digital cable box I have has a FireWire (1394) port. My computer does too. Will that work? And will there be sound? Soviet Genius, Have used this company's products for the use you desire. CHECK them out. http://www.hauppauge.com/html/products.htm truenorthIf the firewire will work I'd rather not spend money on a capture card.Quote from: Soviet Genius on January 14, 2008, 05:41:53 PM

OK I just realized something, I don't know if this will work. The digital cable box I have has a FireWire (1394) port. My computer does too. Will that work? And will there be sound?

So my old computer was hooked up to an LCD display via DVI and to a regular TV via S-video out. I had it SET up just FINE, with the LCD as the primary display and the TV as the secondary, and I had it as an extended desktop. Whenever I turned on the computer, everything was as it should be. When I turned on the TV and went to the S-video input, the computer would automatically detect the TV and the extended desktop would show up.

I now have a new system. On-board video card (Gigabyte GA-G33M-S2H motherboard with Intel G33/G31 Express CHIPSET). I also have a new TV. Now, the LCD (same one) is attached via a VGA cable and the TV is attached via an HDMI cable. Same version of Windows (XP Media Center).

Everything still works, however, when I go to the HDMI input on the TV, the extended desktop doesn't automatically show up on the television screen. However, it DOES detect the TV because I hear the default "detect" / "usb" .wav sound file. So what I have to do to get it to work is manually go on Display Properties --> Settings --> Click on the 2nd display (the TV) ---> UN-check the "extend my windows desktop" box --> and then RE-check it --> press apply ---> ...and then voila, the image pops up onto the TV, as it should automatically. Once I do this, I am fine. I can put the computer on standby, I can go back to the TV tuner and then back to the input--whatever--the extended desktop will remain on the TV screen. However, as soon as I turn off the TV and turn it back on again, the image is gone and I have to manually set this up all over again.

How can I fix this? I never had to do this on my old system... I've also got the most up-to-date video drivers. Didn't help.

Thanks for any help.This is a somewhat annoying problem. I don't have a whole lot of experience using multiple monitors, but I have used it on a few PCs, and I use it on my home PC.

The problem is caused because the PC doesn't recognize the TV when it is initializing the video. I've ALWAYS noticed with TVs (S-Video or HDMI) if I plugged in the TV (or turned it on in your case) after the computer was booted it would FAIL to work properly right away. I always had to make sure I rebooted the PC while everything was plugged in, or screw with the settings. It has never been an especially annoying thing because I don't have to do it often.

With one customer, his TV always was detected even when it was turned off, so he didn't have any problems as long as he didn't unplug the HDMI cable. With you on the other hand it sounds like the computer doesn't see it until you turn it on. Everytime the second display (your TV) is removed from the system it is messing up the settings for your extended desktop because it no longer has a display to extend it to. The secret would be to make it always see that second display regardless of the status of the TV. Have you by any chance installed a driver for the TV itself?

I understand your frustration, but I'm pretty sure, from my experience, that Windows XP has some pretty buggy multi-monitor support.

I have a Pentium D dual-core processor, and this is what the entry comes up as on DXDIAG:

Code: [Select] Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 2.80GHz (2 CPUs)
I've been READING around a LITTLE, but I couldn't really find a straight answer:

Does this mean it has two cores running at 2.8 GHz each, or two cores running at a combined total of 2.8GHz? Thanks.Very strict TECHNICALITIES aside, 2.8HGz dual core processor will perform operations pretty close to the speed of single core 5.6GHz processor.
More info: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-dual-core-processor.htm

Ok, so I seem to have all sorts of formatting issues lately. I have this 1GB thumb drive and my computer recognizes that something is plugged into the USB drive, but it is not formatted. It will NOT format it, no matter how many times I try. It says"The disk in drive E: is not formatted. Would you like to format it now?" Why of course i say YES and press "start", then it says "The disk in Drive E: cannot be formatted." It's not just this computer, it's ANY computer. I tried e-mailing the company about it, but they blew me off. It's a Dane-elec zMate Pen NACRE (USB 2.0) 1GB drive. It says from the company website that they are "plug-n-play" for any OS over Windows 98. Well, this is a WinXP OS, so theorhetically this should work. It's not acting very "plug-n-play" to me... Any suggestions? if it doesnt work in any computer then chances are that the device is defective. i honestly would not spend too much time trying to troubleshoot it when you can purchase new 1gb flash drives for as little as $5.Bummer. It stopped working right out the box. No wonder the company never responded. Arrrr!It never worked? Are you able to RETURN it or exchange it?no, it never worked. I guess i should have kept the reciept... You could always try formatting it on another machine...
You got nothin to lose at this point.
You may also want to check the device itself for a tiny microswitch that is there to file protect the device...you may have missed it the first time.
If no joy-joy on this toss it or take it apart to see what the insides look like and grab a new ONE.Quote

or take it apart to see what the insides look like

"OH F..." I believe I said.

Quote

"OH F..." I believe I said.

You must've been referring to your F: drive.

I am getting a erorr code 1068. It is SAYING that there is a dependencies problem. I looked at the service printer spooler and it says that there are no dependencies. but when i click on to the services that depend on the following systems components there are 3 things there the one that says the service status stoped is LEXBCES SERVER . also i can not find C:\WINDOWS\System32\LEXBCES.EXE files anywhere I have a Lexmark x1240 printer that was working then all of a sudden it stopped. Please help I need my printer to work for school.
I now try and donwload the driver from lexmark and it comes up with internet can not download cjr1200en.exe downloaddelivery.com the connection with the server was reset. Help does any one know how to remove LexBce.exe from the service? Will that slove the problem?
System SPECIFICATIONS please...

Are you using Windows XP? Try this:
Click on start, click run and type in:
services.msc
Click OK. A new window will appear called "services". Within that window, scroll down to "Printer Spooler" and double click the service. Click on the "Log On" tab and make sure it logs on as the Local System account. Make sure "Allow service to interact with desktop" is selected and then click on "Apply".
Now click on the General tab. Click on the "Startup type" box and select AUTOMATIC, then click on Start. Click OK.

Still having problems?

I'm going to search for error code 1068 and see what I find.color=purple][/color] No I have Vista and I have already tried that I have basically tried everything I can think of. Judging by the amount of hits on google with that printer and Vista troubles you may be out of luck.
However travel Here for what's supposed to be the correct Vista driver.

( It's the 2nd one listed)

You need to un-install any Lexmark software from Add/Remove programs and also remove the printer in Control Panel...
Then power down and disconnect the printer.
Re-boot and double clik the driver DLoad to run it's setup and it will tell you when to plug in the printer.

Good LuckI have and this is what happens
I am getting a erorr code 1068. It is saying that there is a dependencies problem. I looked at the service printer spooler and it says that there are no dependencies. but when i click on to the services that depend on the following systems components there are 3 things there the one that says the service status stoped is LEXBCES SERVER . also i can not find C:\Windows\System32\LEXBCES.EXE files anywhere I have a Lexmark x1240 printer that was working then all of a sudden it stopped. Please help I need my printer to work for school.
I now try and donwload the driver from lexmark and it comes up with internet can not download cjr1200en.exe downloaddelivery.com the connection with the server was reset. Help does any one know how to remove LexBce.exe from the service? Will that slove the problem?
Click on the link i provided...getting it from anywhere else may be the root of the problem...
Then follow the steps outlined above.THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE If you have followed the steps i outlined and DLoaded and installed the driver i linked to then i'm afraid it's what i originally suspected...that printer will not run on Vista.

Sorry.
Sell/give it to someone who has XP and grab another printer. Be sure to verify it's a Vista READY printer...

All USB ports are registering on the devices in control panel, but will not recognise card reader. it does recognise the printer.
installed a 4 port card and that does the same.

looked for any drivers that might be needed, but the Motherboard SEEMS to be too old for updates.

Any SUGGESTIONS would be apreciated.What operating SYSTEM and service pack level are you operating at; e.g. Windows XP Home SP2?

What is the make and model number of the computer, if "brand name"; otherwise make and model number of the motherboard?

Quote from: Fred8 on May 29, 2008, 04:44:15 PM

All USB ports are registering on the devices in control panel, but will not recognise card reader. it does recognise the printer.

When I tried to print a document today my printer wouldn't print. I uninstalled it and re-installed it but no dice. When I try to print from the print console I get "printer is not ready or busy". When I try to print from Properties I can see the job going to the print queue but that's where it STAYS. No error messages. I know my cable is good because I can see the USB connection on my desktop. I ALSO double checked the USB port. The printer is ready with one green LIGHT. Does anyone have any ideas.Run the printer through a self test and see if it will print a test document, please.Navigate to C:\Windows\System32\Spool folder, and see any printing jobs are listed there. If any, delete.Aegis, when I try to print a test page from the printer console I get the "printer not ready or busy". When I try a test page from printer properties the job does not go to the print queue. I EVEN disconnected the USB cable and hooked it to a printer port and reinstalled the printer. As soon as I turned the printer on, I got the "Found new hardware" message.
Edit. I just tried to install this printer on another computer RUNNING XP Pro. and I'm getting the same message. The only thing the print console would let me do is clean it so I know the signal is getting through. My apologies, Dave. I'm probably not asking correctly. Most printers have a diagnostic session which can be run independent of computer control, to test the printer's own hardware, etc. I found it strange that this one didn't have such a comtrol. In fact, it only had one button "Continue". Finally, I gave up and took it to a Panasonic repair shop here in town. I figure after trying to get it to work on another computer that it was problem with the printer although, for the life of me, I can't figure what could be wrong with it. It gave me the same messages whether connected parallel or USB. I'll know in a few days.

I have a gateway pc running windows XP home. Yesterday we connected a cannon printer and the screen went black. I could use logmein and see the screen; only it looked like the video was corrupt. In the control panel the settings were 999999x999999 for video resolution. There were no other settings to be able to change it to.
This happened SEVERAL MONTHS ago and I was able to do a system restore to a prior date and get it back. When this happened it was a scanner that was plugged in.
Anyone GOT any IDEA on how to KEEP this from happening again aside from installing a new video card or should I just do that?
Were both peripherals USB / plugged into the same port? If so it sounds like you have a short in that port. Sounds like a poem, doesn't it?

Alan<>< Quote

Yesterday we connected a cannon printer and the screen went black.

Hey this is my 1st time building a system but not my 1st time working on one.

There is no OS installed due to it wont stay on long enough. I've change the PS Ram HD Video CARDS. So here's the run down on what happens.

I turn it on.
It boots up to the bios stays like that for appx 10-15 sec then shuts down no error or anything.

I have a xfx nforce 780i mother board on the mother board it seems to shut down after 7F which is POST error check it seems to go to FF for a second then shuts down FF is Boot.

MY set up is

NVIDIA nForce 780i SLI Intel Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4GHz
4GB DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800
EVGA GeForce 8800 GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 X2
Western Digital Raptor 150GB 10000 RPM
Seagate Barracuda 250GB 7200 RPM
ABS Tagan BZ Series 900W
If i can get the os in Vista 32bit

I hope i gave enough info, if you need any more just ask. Thanks for the helpdid you correctly mount the heatsink? did you use thermal paste and is it fastened securely?Yes, there was already past on the heatsink so i didnt add more and yes.Try a different power supplyI did I used 2 different ONES i even uped the PS from a 750W to a 900w.Make sure your motherboard isn't grounding out on the case.

What kind of standoffs did you use ?I used the ones That came with the case. They are Bronze Those are brass, not bronze.Did you use the little flat washers ?

I have found it better in some cases to use small flat rubber
based washers,I buy at a hardware store.

I had an Asus board that kept grounding out until I used
this type of washers.

Of course,I am only a Woodpecker and have a small brain. no washers, Ill give those rubber washers a shot today.You may want to do a bench test since you will be pulling the board anyways.
I use a rubber mat for this but cardboard will suffice.

Place the MBoard close enough to the monitor for a connection.
Hook up/install only the FOLLOWING:

Mouse
Keyboard
1 stick of RAM
Vid card
Monitor
PSU
CPU/and heatsink.

See if the machine will boot and display on the monitor.
Pay special attention to any beeps at power up.

This test will eliminate or confirm if the MBoard may be the problem.
If all goes well you can carefully re-install everything into the case...I did the bench test everything is fine. So i put everything back together for the 3rd time and it works no more shuting down. I was able to get the OS in and all the Updates. Had it running for a good 4 hrs with no problems. I guess it was just a loose connection.

Thxs for all your help.Glad you got it fixed friend.