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WinXp MCE, Fujitsu/Siemens SCALEO E ,3ghz Celeron, 4Gb Ram.I just got this from Ebay and it is great but I wonder if anyone can help me with the RK0410 wireless keyboard with trackball.
The keyboard communicates at 2.4 Ghz and most of the time it is fine..but..fairly often the trackball stops moving the mouse pointer efficiently(at all ranges).The KEYS still work.This seems to be totally random.It may recover after a period of time.I am an experience ELECTRONICS guy and I have dismantled the trackball and it is definitely clean and physically okay.
My suspicion is that there is 2.4ghz interference.I have switched off the usual suspects i.e.router,phone base station and microwave cooker.I daren't ask the neighbours.
There are no updated driver FILES as far as I can find.
When the trackball is inefficient I can use my Logitech wireless USB mouse perfectly well.
Any THOUGHTS?If something similar has happened to you...Are there any fluorescent lights around? They can also cause EMI.

When you say you can't find any updated drivers, does that mean you've gone through Device Manager as well?

START>right-click "my computer">properties>hardware tab>device manager

click the plus sign next to keyboards....On the submenu, right-click the wireless keyboard and click update to see if Windows will find one for you

Good afternoon,

I am thinking about more RAM for my older computer but don't know how to find what I need.

My computer "properties" are AMD Athlon 1700+ 1.47 Ghz 256MB RAM
My OS is XP.

What should I get to upgrade the Ram and where? Any help, as usual, would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks
SampRun the scan at Crucial.com to see what you need.Is this for a laptop or a desktop? The best place IMHO to buy ram is newegg.com. They have great deals and carry all main stream types of ram. There may be cheaper SITES but the reputation and service from newegg.com is top notch. Thanks KARNAC, that website was really helpful for me too.You're most welcome...of course once you know what you need you can shop around....memory is quite reasonable these DAYS, and there are deals to be had.

Newegg and TigerDirect both have memory configurators so you can do the same on their websites and priceout memory....Newegg has an additional 15% off for 48 hours.Thanks to all for the info.

The sites are great and I now know what I need, just have to order it.

Many thanks again,

sampYou're most welcome Samp, drop by again.

Because it's a laptop....and don't know if parts are as easily interchangeable as a desktopA "PC card" is DESIGNED for laptops. Not all laptops have a PC card slot though, in which CASE you may NEED a USB dongle.

It's now up and running smoothly. I MANAGED twice to get it running but when I turned the power off it wouldn't reboot. I remembered my next door neighbour is a COMPUTER teacher so went to ask him if I COULD borrow a screwdriver to take the top off. Long story short, he opened up the Processor which I discovered is an Athlon XP 2100. It was very dusty, gave it a clean, but it was the memory card that was the problem - the dust was thick! My neighbour cleaned it was a cotton tip and it running like NEW again! CHEERS.

OK. Re-installed the WMP54G and "New hardware found". Inserted the Linksys CD. Driver loaded. Downloaded another driver from another computer onto a USB thumb drive. Unzipped the Linksys driver from USB to C:\. Device Manager and Update Driver. Driver installed same as one from Linksys web-site. Show network devices: 1- VIA onboard; 2 - Wireless device. No connection to wireless.

Maybe today I'll stop at Fry's on the way home and get a PCI-N card. The specs say XP SP1 minimum for the card, oh well.Leave the Onboard in place...it's the other one.
Did you get a CD with the wireless card ?Hey, check out my last post.
Installed wireless card
Booted
XP found new hardware
Inserted Linksys CD
XP loaded Linksys driver from CD
Got Linksys driver from Linksys website
Went to Device Manager
Told wireless card to update driver to the one downloaded from website
XP said that there was no difference (meaning I have the latest driver already)
Tried to CONFIGURE the wireless card but configuration software cannot find any wireless card.
Looking in networks folder I SEE two devices: 1-Native motherboard ethernet, 2-Wireless ethernetWhat configuration software ? ?
If the drivers installed correctly and it's not being detected then the card is probably DOA...Yesterday I stopped by Fry's and bought a D-link wireless PCI G ADAPTER. De-installed Linksys card and Linksys software. Rebooted several times. Installed D-Link card. Booted. New hardware found. Inserted manufacturer's CD. Driver installed. Looked for network card in device manager. Card found. Control panel. Network Connections. Card found but no connection to router. Same as with Linksys NIC. Other computers in room have strong connections, this one has nothing.Today I try this. Move entire system into bedroom with router and wire the ethernet with direct cat 5. If this works, then update the OS (it is still at initial install point SP<1). If this works, then update the rest of the stuff. If this works, then retry the wireless card as it says XP SP1 is minimum supported config. If this works, you won't see any more posts.Sounds like a well thought out approach to solving the ISSUE...
Best of Luck...and let us know.
Welcome Aboard !Update. Moved system into 2nd bedroom and hard-wired to router. Connected to internet and updated everything. Now I can see the IOmega 100 MB ide device and can see a backup file thereon (image.113). I checked IOmega ZIP software and downloaded all that I could but still can't read the image file. I still cannot see the Linksys wireless card or the FireWire 1394 card, both PCI devices.

I NEED ideas on:
IOmega software that can read the image.113 file
Why does the wireless card not show up as a network device although it appears as a hardware device?
Why can't I see the 1394 card as some sort of device under My Computer?

I am trying to buy a card to add 2 more CD drives on top of my other 2 but i cant find what its called. I'm running XP on 1 hard drive and PROGRAMS on the other 2 ( there all rather small) I only have 2 pci slots unfilled.
You need one of these if you have IDE cables

http://www.buy.com/prod/startech-com-2-port-pci-ide-controller-adapter-card-2-x-40-pin-idc/q/loc/101/204395407.htmlJust wondering, why would anyone wanted to have four CD drives...??Quote from: Broni on June 09, 2009, 11:50:20 AM

Just wondering, why would anyone wanted to have four CD drives...??

My fan on my computer has had a loud intermittent fan noise. I dusted and it was less frequent, but still happened. Lately it's been more frequent.

Today my computer just SHUT down on it's own. I had not been getting any error messages. I dusted again and tried to restart.

It starts, beeps once (like normal) and gets to the screen where it tests memory and has the F2 and F8 safe mode options. It just freezes there and nothing happens if I push F2 or F8.

Please help. I forgot to mention what kind of setup I have. It is a desktop computer with Windows XP.Bjay100, there are a number of fans in your PC,....... are you refering to the power supply fan that blows out the back of your PC?....If this is the fan which was making the noise you may need a new power supply, this noise may have been the bearings going bad.......swap in ANOTHER KNOWN good PS and see if that fixes your problem, ..... go to youtube and search for "changing power supply" if you are unsure of how to do it.Run memtest: http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic62524.html
I changed the power source and it started!

But then when I restarted it later, it froze again. I turned it off and on, and it BOOTED just fine. What could cause that?

Power source or power supply?........ Reseat your memory ........See if it responds......then run the memory test (Reply # 3) if you can.Comrade,I dont see any connection related with ur computer freezing and the fan.If u are using a sata Hdd,have u checked ur sata CABLE.Have ur sata cable cheked once.

Well you bumped the Topic because there was a sense of urgency....and then there wasn't.
Just common courtesy...that's all.there are several things currently gone on. Sorry I just wanted to have it put THREW but my sister is coming up with her co-piolit and such.Quote from: squall_01 on May 30, 2009, 12:05:58 PM

there are several things currently gone on. Sorry I just wanted to have it put threw but my sister is coming up with her co-piolit and such.

Current Setup I have running:
Windows Vista x64 (Business)
Evga 780i SLi FTW Mobo
Evga Geforce gtx 280 Graphics card
2x2gig RAM G.Skill
Intel Core 2 Quad Core Processor
Thermaltake 850W PSU
Acer 22"w LCD Monitor (primary) and HP 15" LCD Monitor (secondary)
--------------
OK my problem is that my maximum that I can get is a maximum resolution of 1024x768 for both my monitors (since thats plenty for my 15", im not to worried) but I know my 22" wide outputs 1680x1050 because I used to have a GeForce 9800 gx2 that output that. I have called EVGA several times, but the following solutions they gave me didn't work:
-re-seating card and trying other pci-e slots
-increasing voltage in bios manually from 100 to 104
-I have both most up to date video and mobo drivers
-I wiped my partition before I put the 280 in the COMPUTER, so OS is stable.
-PSU is giving out proper volt and amps.
-switch dvi ports for monitor( and only use one)

When I GO to either Personalize>Dispaly Settings or Nvidia Control Panel. the sliders only go as high 1024x768, and when I try and use the Nvidia Control Panel's set custom resolution to 1680x1050 at any refresh rate, it just says failed test, and reverts back. Also booting FULL screen games, i only get max resolution of 1024x768.

Some computer history:
couple of months ago I was loosing feed to the monitor when windows loaded, thats when i sent my 9800gx2 for RMA and got back the gtx280, but that didn't change anything (free upgrade ) it ended up being that they pushed a new driver out a month before my issues. Updating that solved the problem. (Not sure if its related to my current problem but I figure telling you might help)

Anyone have any ideas how i can get my comp up to 1680x1050 resolution?
Are you using VGA or DVI or another connection type. I saw an issue one with VGA not taking the hi-res, but switching to DVI cable fixed that. Also do you have the driver for you monitor installed so it is detecting the native res of the 22" display.Are you using dual monitors? Cause if you are I think you have them linked try unplugging the 15'' and try using the 22''.I am currently using my 22" straight dvi connection, and my 15" has a vga that converts to dvi.

I also have tried using each of the monitors by themselves, testing each port, sadly it didn't change a thingI can guarantee to you it isn't the card- my ancient RAGE Pro 3d goes up to 1600x1200.

it's a problem with either the display drivers or the chipset drivers.

Now, you say you encountered issues with the newest drivers before, with a loss of monitor signal. have you tried downgrading to a previous nVidia reference driver to see if that helps?


Also, Another issue might be that your 15" only supports 1024x768. You'll need to boot the PC with ONLY the 22" in the primary VGA slot, in order for the driver to read the DDC data from it and act appropriately. Worst case scenario, you can do this:

start-up with the 22" as the main display.

(I believe your using vista... so)

right-click desktop, Personalize, Display settings.

Click the "advanced" button.

Select the "monitor" tab.

Take note of the "monitor type" it lists here. Is it right? does it reflect your 22"?

If you want to force the display settings page to show ALL the available resolutions of your video card, uncheck "hide modes that this monitor cannot display". Also, if your refresh rate is set to a high value, set it back to 60 and see if you can now change the resolution higher.


Since 60Hz is not enough for a lot of people to notice flicker, you might want to change it back after this.


Hope this helps!Well i tried all that and nothing worked.... Though Someone else told me to use a vga cable instead of a dvi cable. This worked, problem is it is a hassle to use this cable ( i will have to move cables everytime i want to play xbox). So if we know its working through vga does this mean i have a busted dvi cable or what?

My computer is acting weird after I installed the new hardware. I am not really good with computers so it's "possible" I screwed up the hardware installation but I DOUBT it because I was, 1., careful, and 2., following the directions (which, at least, I can do).

I installed new graphics cards so that I could play Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare better. My original graphics card was a nVidia (GeForce, maybe?) 6150 SE. I upped it to a nVidia GeForce 8400 GS PCI Express.

My computer had an extra slot so I stuck the card in it without removing the original (which, due to my BAD PC skills, I could not identify). I was stupid the first time around and I installed the new video card software without removing the original. I uninstalled both softwares later and then reinstalled the newer one.

The problem: During Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare gameplay, the computer can sometimes slow down A LOT, A LOT, A LOT (usually within 10 minutes of gaming). Even if I close the game, the computer is still slow for ~3 minutes after I shut the game before it returns to normal speed, which is moderately fast. This problem did NOT exist before the new hardware.

Here are the full specs generated by EVEREST:
(Keep in mind I have no idea what anything down below means, I just know how to generate a report via EVEREST).
(And if any more info is required, I won't mind generating another report).
(Thanks in advanced for the help!!!!!!!!!!).


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Computer Type ACPI x86-based PC
Operating System Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
Internet Explorer 8.0.6001.18783
DirectX DirectX 10.0
Computer Name MATTH-PC
User Name Matthew
Logon Domain MATTH-PC
Date / Time 2009-06-09 / 19:20

Motherboard:
CPU Type DualCore AMD Athlon 64 X2, 2300 MHz (11.5 x 200) 4400+
Motherboard Name Unknown
Motherboard Chipset nVIDIA nForce 6100-4xx, AMD HAMMER
System Memory 3072 MB (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM)
DIMM1: Samsung M3 78T2863QZS-CF7 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (6-6-6-18 @ 400 MHz) (5-5-5-15 @ 333 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz)
DIMM2: Samsung M3 78T2863QZS-CF7 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (6-6-6-18 @ 400 MHz) (5-5-5-15 @ 333 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz)
DIMM3: ProMos/Mosel Vitelic V916764K24QCFW-G6 512 MB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (6-6-6-18 @ 400 MHz) (5-5-5-15 @ 333 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz)
DIMM4: ProMos/Mosel Vitelic V916764K24QCFW-G6 512 MB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (6-6-6-18 @ 400 MHz) (5-5-5-15 @ 333 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz)
BIOS Type Award (05/02/08)

Display:
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS (256 MB)
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS (256 MB)
3D Accelerator nVIDIA GeForce 8400 GS
Monitor HP w2007 [20" LCD] (CNC816KRT8)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter Realtek ALC888/S/T @ nVIDIA MCP61 - High Definition Audio Controller

Storage:
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Storage Controller ANU20NO7 IDE Controller
Storage Controller Microsoft iSCSI Initiator
Disk Drive ST336032 0AS SCSI Disk Device (335 GB)
Optical Drive ATAPI DVD A DH16A3L SCSI CdRom Device
Optical Drive WHQ S5MJCH27OH6 SCSI CdRom Device
SMART Hard Disks Status Unknown

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 333835 MB (152172 MB free)
D: (NTFS) 9562 MB (998 MB free)
Total Size 335.3 GB (149.6 GB free)

Input:
Keyboard Enhanced Multimedia PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse Microsoft PS/2 Port Mouse (IntelliPoint)

Network:
Primary IP Address 192.168.1.47
Primary MAC Address 00-1F-C6-6E-AC-91
Network Adapter NVIDIA nForce 10/100 Mbps Ethernet (192.168.1.47)
Modem PCI SOFT Data Fax Modem with SmartCP

Peripherals:
Printer Adobe PDF
Printer Journal Note Writer
Printer Microsoft XPS Document Writer
Printer Samsung ML-1740 Series
Printer Send To OneNote 2007
Printer SnagIt 9
FireWire Controller AT&T/Lucent IEEE1394 FireWire Controller (PHY: Agere LFW3226/3227)
USB1 Controller nVIDIA MCP61 - OHCI USB 1.1 Controller
USB2 Controller nVIDIA MCP61 - EHCI USB 2.0 Controller
USB Device USB Mass Storage Device

DMI:
DMI BIOS Vendor Phoenix Technologies, LTD
DMI BIOS Version 5.13
DMI System Manufacturer HP-Pavilion
DMI System Product KQ422AA-ABA a6407c
DMI System Version
DMI System Serial Number MXU8200BZL
DMI System UUID 00F9739A-978E1310-AC2ABF3B-F639ED85
DMI Motherboard Manufacturer ASUSTek Computer INC.
DMI Motherboard Product NARRA3
DMI Motherboard Version 3.02
DMI Motherboard Serial Number MS1C84R52108231
DMI Chassis Manufacturer Hewlett-Packard
DMI Chassis Version Chassis Version
DMI Chassis Serial Number
DMI Chassis Asset Tag
DMI Chassis Type Desktop Case
DMI Total / Free Memory Sockets 4 / 0

Hi all is Pentium 2.2GHz dual CORE better than 3.2GHz Pentium 4 ht for gaming? i no the graphic card plays a big part but I'm trying to BUILD a averang gaming computer only! thanksYes, but it really depends on the rest of your system and the games you're playing.well it mostly depends on the GFX card and the game high end games NEED high end gfx cardsAnd you could throw in the RAM as as well for good measure. If you need average gaming then you need an average graphics, sound and Ram card. But I would go for extra RAM. Never have enough RAM!Quote from: swinny on June 04, 2009, 02:22:41 AM

Hi all is Pentium 2.2GHz dual core better than 3.2GHz Pentium 4 ht for gaming? i no the graphic card plays a big part but I'm trying to build a averang gaming computer only! thanks

I have a Hitachi DVD drive that can read DVD's as WELL as burn them. I'm running Windows XP. In the PAST I always used a program called Super DVD Creator to make DVD's by converting videos and burning them to DVD, the program does all of that for you.

I have not changed anything on my PC, but now for some reason when I get the burn PART it says it's a invalid format. I tried another DVD burning program, DVD Flick, and got a similar error.

The drive still plays games and movies FINE, for some reason it just won't burn anymore.

Any ideas? How old is this drive. You could have a bad DVD drive already.Optical problem, replace it [drive]I only BOUGHT the drive two years ago. And it burned fine last weekend. Is there any way to find out what's going on for sure?Try cleaning the drive and then use InfraRecorder.They don't make EM like they used to...You mean the way they used to suck in dust and burn out in a month?! Quote from: Rob Pomeroy on June 01, 2009, 06:00:59 AM

You mean the way they used to suck in dust and burn out in a month?!

OK, here's what I want to do...
I have all my CDs finally downloaded ONTO a hard drive. I want to create a music server that plugs directly into an input on my stereo...a computer that has absolutely nothing else on it but operating system, the music and iTunes (the format I used to download all the music), but ALSO has the ability to access the internet, burn CDs and record CDs.
The computer the hard drive is in now is REALLY old; the CPU is so weak it can't even play the music without skipping.
I was advised 1) all sound DRIVERS are the same, 2) no sound cards have RCA type plugs as outputs 3) it would be easiest and cheapest to just buy a new stripped down computer, use plug adapters from the output of the PC to input to the pre-amp of the stereo.
I can't believe there is not a market for such a system? Is everyone just using their computers as stereos now?
So, any THOUGHTS??? suggestions??I've been doing this for years, mainly to use stereo for surround sound games. I even played Wolfenstein 3D many many years AGO using stereo as sound system. All you need is to get a stereo phono jack ( same jack as modern headphones ) and 2 RCA Left and Right for Stereo Aux Input and set your level on your audio on you PC to about 50% and use stereo remote to control volume etc.

You can even go one step further and record FM Radio or convert LP's to MP3 ( although there is some degradation in conversion as well as Analog LP to digital MP3 loses lots of range from original quality LP. To do that get a Male/Male Stereo Phono cable and plug the PC Mic into the Headphone Out on the Stereo.

Output of Stereo to Mic of PC is only risk for failure here as for if you have volume too high you will burn up the preamp of the mic jack...set volume to like 25% on the stereo and gradually raise it to about 50% until you get the perfect recording quality without hiss in the background, but not too high in which you have amplitude chopping in which the imput exceeds the scale range of the preamp keeping it pegged.

Most who can afford it these days get tuner cards for radio through PC etc, but if you want something LOUD and full of range a stereo is the way to go. OR tuner card and an expensive Woofer/surround sound setup to get same quality as stereo and less bulky.

Also with the iPOD and the stereo base I have seen many go that route.

My nephew unplugged my PC and when I plugged it back up it won't come on. I have tried plugging it into different outlets and it still won't come on. All of the other components, monitor etc.. all come on , just not the PC it's self..
thanks, LakenDid you actually see your nephew unplug your PC? In other words, are you sure that's the only thing he did? This could be bad

Some power supplies have a switch on the back of them that must be switched to the "on" position, does your power supply have one of these?I GUESS I should have mentioned that my nephew is 28 . He was changing the power strip for one with more outlets.. The monitor, printer, etc are all plugged into the same power strip and they all work.. We also changed the strip again and even tried plugging the PC directly into the wall outlet and it still won't come on.. The problem is not with the power strip since other things plugged into it work... When you press the button to turn on the computer, is there any indication that there is power going to the computer......lights, sounds of any kind?


edit: what is the make/model of the computer and how old is it?The computer is an HP about six years old running Windows XP Home... Plenty of memory etc... When you push the power button there is no indication of power getting to it. The light does not come on and it doesn't make any sound. Just nothing...I haven't taken the cover off and tried anything other than just plugging it into different outlets so maybe a more in depth examination of the situation is needed... I just haven't had the time yet..
LakenAre you shure its plugged in to the pc and the on/off switch is in the on position?Quote from: Laken on May 31, 2009, 08:58:28 AM

The computer is an HP about six years old running Windows XP Home... Plenty of memory etc... When you push the power button there is no indication of power getting to it. The light does not come on and it doesn't make any sound. Just nothing...I haven't taken the cover off and tried anything other than just plugging it into different outlets so maybe a more in depth examination of the situation is needed... I just haven't had the time yet..
Laken

I use Suddenlink phone and internet service thinking that sending or receiving a fax would be a piece of cake with my Dell all-in-one 926 printer. However after setting up the send/receive information in the Dell PC Fax window nothing happens. The modem is a Touchstone Telephony Modem. My OS is Vista. Suggestions?contact the manu.or use the manualNalee, who's the manu.?

Has it not OCCURRED to you that Don has probably ALREADY perused the manual?

I should expect that someone who declares themeselves MCP, which I assume is a Microsoft Certified Professional, to have better customer service skills, and better manners in general.


Don, you may want to check with Suddenlink to be sure their digital phone service supports sending faxes. Most digital services do. Some don't.

You say you've set up the information. I'm assuming that you load the paper you want to fax, enter the number, and press Send. Nothing happens after that? Do you hear the fax dialing out? Most faxes will scan the PAGES before attempting to make the phone connection. Does the machine scan your pages?

Also, Don, as a gentle reminder, most all in one units "default" to Copy mode. I trust you are engaging the Fax mode?

Try one of the free online fax services:

google [ free online fax service ]

http://faxzero.com/

p.s.

I have not used the above service.

Good LuckAEGIS...... I appreciate your INPUT on my comment, but THATS one of the first rules in trouble shooting, don't expect or assume anything. Gather as much info as you can, you don't know their level of computer knowledge, and I thought the job of computer forum was to offer any form of assistance. And what does MCP have to do with anything? Besides, you know what they say about assumptions......right

p.s Manu. is my abbreviation for manufacturer.You're right about that, Nalee...more info is better.Quote from: nalee on June 01, 2009, 12:02:19 PM

p.s Manu. is my abbreviation for manufacturer.

I understand that the laptop drive doesn't have to boot, but the master drive does. When I HOOK the laptop drive up and start the computer the master drive won't boot, I've changed the jumpers on the laptop drive several ways and the same thing happens, although I did try to start the computer without jumpers on the laptop drive and got a message that there were two master drives and needed to go through a SETUP or risk damage to the computer if I continued, that's why I suggested possibly disconnecting the master drive on the desk top and CONNECTING the laptop drive as the master and see what happens that way, I know I shouldn't have to do that but it's not working any other wayTry hooking it up to the SECONDARY IDE cable...I checked to find the only IDE slot there is beside the for the cd drive, is for an FDD cable, I'm sorry for waisting your time with all of this because I need to GET an adapter that will connect SATA to IDE which is what the Master drive is in this computer. Once again I'm sorry for the waist of time I'll be getting an adapter for this and I'll be back.Hook it up to the CDROM cable...no need to buy anything else.Ok I hooked the laptop drive up to that cable, I have the drive set as a slave, when I turn the computer on it goes through the memory test then that's it

Yes , every motherboard has an onboard video card but you just can't see it. Its usually another chip (out of the thousands there seem to be on the board ).

what would you guys SAY is the BEST (as FAR as resonably price) bluetooth GPS kit (containing everything needed to use it) dont really have the cash for a regular gps...for laptopsHave a look AROUND these sorts of places mate.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__usb+gps+for+laptops_W0QQ_dmdZ2?rvr_id=&crlp=1572312220_229447_229448&UA=WVS%3F&GUID=c1bfca641210a0e2031464e4fec9ec65&keyword=usb+gps+for+laptops&MT_ID=10&agid=736022260&ff4=229447_229448

Ok here's another one
After fixing my PC and getting it up and running i INSTALLED Vista 32 bit and i realised the CPU which is a AMD Athlonx2 4200 socket 939 is running most of the time one of the cores at full capacity whilst the other fluctuate.
The result being that my games and some of my applications run slow.
Is there any WAY i can adjust the CPU?
Thankswhat is running on your computer do you know? Check the windows task manager to see what's hacking up so the most cpu. it might be that you might have to just disable a program or a background service or something...Upgrade to a am2 or am2+ cpu and motherboard and you will see a great improvement.Quote from: thebled on June 08, 2009, 01:08:57 AM

Upgrade to a am2 or am2+ cpu and motherboard and you will see a great improvement.

i just GOT in a new power supply just out of the box from newegg.com

it is 650 watts....made by corsair

i plug everything into the motherboard including the correct pin setup (hdd power etc) and the power supply won't even turn on....ive tried a new cord and about 4 different outlets that i know work.

my question:
without even plugging in any cord from the power supply to the motherboard, is the power supply supposed to turn on (like the fan) by itself?Yes, the PSU should power on regardless of whether or not a load was applied.

Have you checked the voltage switch, usually a recessed red rectangle near where the AC cable comes into the PSU? If you're in the USA, the 220V setting (or similar) will not work, and it needs to be switched with a screwdriver to 115V (or similar, within 10V).The power supply will FAIL to operate if the power to motherboard isn't CONNECTED. Check that the 20 pin ATX power connector and any additional motherboard power CONNECTIONS, such as the 12V supply for P4 systems, are properly connected and seated.

http://www.fonerbooks.com/power.htm#power If the 20 pins in it will work. There is a way to make it work without it being plugged into the motherbaord

I Was given a used but new gateway LCD FPD1975W TFTLCD LCD monitor,"black 19" wide" the problem I am having is there are no brightness/contrast or calibration controls on the monitor. and there was no software that came with it. I ASKED my friend and he SAID it did not COME with any.

I tried to call or contact Gateway but they are no help unless I PAY them to tell me something that will not be useful.

What I am asking is where do I get software and drivers for it?

How do I install it?

BTW it works just don't have the drivers and software.

I don't know a lot about computers so please help me STEP by step


any one know where I can get help with this?What is the brand and model of your computer?
What operating system are you using?
What do you mean?
Support: http://support.gateway.com/s/MONITOR/7005574R/7005574Rnv.shtml
Manual: http://support.gateway.com/s/Manuals/Monitors/8511446.pdf

So, I'm building my first PC from scratch.

I'm buying one component at a time over a few weeks. I'm going as cheap as I can and I want mount everything on a sliding drawer inside a cabinet. The drawer is just a flat thing with sheet metal but it's vertical.

So the QUESTIONS.

So FAR I have the Motherboard and the PSU. I had to improvise on getting the PSU mounted and the motherboard can go on there with some little legs I have. I did some research on the DVD drive and that looks fine. But I'm wondering about the HARD drive and the motherboard. Can they be mounted on this drawer?

Also there is just enough clearance of the power supply and bracket for the DVD drive. I don't need a video card and I know one wouldn't clear the SPACE I need. I'm kind of worried about heat sink and fan for the processor though. I need one that isn't too tall. I don't know if it makes much of a difference in size but the processor is an AM2 4400+

I glad I found this place and I'm usually pretty good at figuring this stuff out on my own. I've never really messed with motherboards and processors though and I don't want to just dive right into it.

Thanks,

Jesse

Drives will have no issues being mounted vertically...
What are your plans for cooling ? ?
Calum one of our Resident experts here recently built an open air system and did not have many issues at all...
Perhaps he will be along shortly to add his 2 cents...I think it came out something like this...



Hehe, I like the pic.

For the big fans, I'm thinking one for intake, one for outtake on the back wall of the wooden cabinet. Then one on the drawer itself or above blowing ONTO the components.

I need to rebuild the back of the cab and another thought was using two pieces of pegboard with a fabric lining between the two of them.

That might be overkill, the space on the inside is huge, the opening for the drawer is only about four inches though. For the fan on the board, I'm having a hard time visualizing how tall it would all be with the legs, PCB, processor, etc. I really don't know. I guess I'll just go for the lowest profile I can find.

Thanks a lot, I've been planning this for months and yesterday it hit me that it might not be such a good idea to use the drawer. It's gonna work though!

I've been looking into PURCHASING a dvd driver that can BURN images on the cd. Lightscribe was the first to come to mind but i READ it only does BLACK and white. Is there any alternative to lightscribe that burns images on that are better quality and color. I don't care if its ink. SOMEONE mentioned Taiyo Yuden WaterShield discs to me but i don't know anything about them like how i get an image printed on it.I think lightscribe is the only "in-drive" technology, others might require printers and discs with a sort of paper coating.

windows XP sp3,desktop pc. hp/compaq based amd dual core.
my ps2 mouse lights up but POINTER doesent move. Device manager has no ? marks.Any hardware/software changes lately? Do you have another computer to TEST it on? Also, TRY unplugging it and plugging it back in while off(you probably already tried this). Try different mouse.
Try USB mouse.

Hi guys

Here are my specs:
Intel C2D e7400 @ 2.8GHZ
ASUS P5KPL-CM
2GB DDR2 800MHz
500W PSU
8600GT 256MB

The problem is, whenever I start the computer, a high pitched whining noise comes out of it, then settles down/goes away after around 10 mins of usage.

the noise seems o fluctuate, especially when I actually 'use' the machine. ie opening a folder, playing a game.

I have checked it is not the HDDs, i UNPLUGGED them all and it was the same, I also removed the 8600GT to see if it was that...the noise is still there.

It can't be the CPU, because I ran a stress test in the calculator by using the n! button, noise didn't fluctuate as it usually does.

Any insights?

KurtisI had a VERY similar problem with a power supply not too long ago. The noise was there more when I used the computer and it was NOT idle, like you described. It would make quiet, but very high pitch squealing noises. From what I understand, the transformers and/or capacitors could go bad, then they squeal! I swapped out the power supply and the problem went away.......

Try swapping out the power supply for a little while and see if you notice a difference..


edit: it's really difficult to tell it's the PSU when you put your ear up to it. I did that and couldn't pin point the noise, despite that it was coming from the PSUNoises from a PC always come from Fans or drives. a "Squealing" noise is usually failed bearings in a fan.

Hard Drives can OFTEN be louder then the PSU and Case fans put together, but it depends on the drive.

My old PCs Power supply sounds similar to a jackhammer- there is something loose causing the whole case to vibrate in unison with it too.hmm ok.

I checked the voltages from the PSU, everything seems normal, but why would it only occur when starting up? it also gets 'worse' the longer it is turned offSame problem with my old PC. Seems to randomly "decide" when it starts up wether it wil be noisy or not- sometimes it starts out noisy, other times silent, and it usually SWITCHES after a few minutes of being on. Very strange.Quote from: Kurtiskain on June 02, 2009, 12:38:46 AM

I checked the voltages from the PSU, everything seems normal,

is it failing capacitors?

Quote from: computeruler on June 07, 2009, 10:48:24 AM

It WOULD work but not with that psu. It needs at least 400w.

Okay, so i have a Compaq Presario v6000, and on the front I have the infrared logo

My question is, how do I used the damned thing? I can't find any resources on the internet about activating it, or if i need special software, or what?

I'm using Windows XP Sp3.

Any ideas welcome,
cheers,
BonesBones92...

Actually, you'll need an optional remote control (available from the vendor) so you can operate your notebook up to 10 feet away. CONTACT the manufacturer for pricing and availability.so its not a port that lets me communicate infrared to my palmtop From what I read from the vendor's site...the infrared is for a remote control.Oh. Ok thankye that cleared the mystery up for me Almost any IR device should work on any machine with built-in IR...
I'd investigate further.Well...from what I've read on these certain models...the built-in infrared is for an optional remote control that lets a user control certain functions of the laptop, such as Quick Play.

It controls some multimedia functions, as well as having the capability to turn the computer on/off. It all depends on what keys are on the optional remote control.

Also...here's a link to the optional remote control: http://www.bonanzle.com/booths/zkarlo/items/Compaq_Presario_V5000_V6000_Remote_Control_407313_001That maybe true, dont mean that the palm cant pick up on that code. I can do my tv an air con an such with mine, Its more or less universal.so what do you use software wise to do those things?its a trail program for the most part its called novi remote you can get codes for ir devices or transmit them to it. It does REQUIRE payment after 30 daysWait, maybe I haven't been clear enough. I don't want a remote control for my laptop. I have a palmtop with an IR port - I want to be able to transfer files with the port, not use it for a remote control. Is this possible, and if so what software do I need to use?

I am a programmer so I could make my own, if I knew what to REFERENCE. Why don't you see if laptop receives your file from palm top.
Just align palmtop's infrared port to laptop's and then send any small SIZE file from your palmtop look what happens !Nothing happens. Believe it or not, I tried this before posting

No hard feelings. i believe it is a "consumer IR" port - GlitchPC was correct - so apparently it doesn't do very much, and can't be used to transfer files with. Oh well. THANKS for help everyone.

pls i would LIKE to KNOW what the PROBLEM could be: at times after switching off and on the red light shows at the 'on' light when its green it works and when its red it wont load .could it be the fan,PROCESSOR or power pack?is the computer on itself?yes it works when the green light is on and its is on rite now but when i switch off and TRY to put it on at times it'll show the red light and wouldnt load until i press the button like 2 more times or re-plug the cpu fan connector on the boardPossible short on the mobo "re-plug the cpu fan connector on the board" or a failing hard drive.

Alan <><

I have a Sansui 19" lcd tv that I want to connect to my COMPUTER as a SECOND monitor. I have it connected to the dvi port on my PC with a vga to dvi adaptor. While the computer is booting I get IDENTICAL video on both my lcd monitor and the Sansui TV, but once Windows loads the TV's video goes away and is replaced by "No Signal." What do I have to do to get the TV to participate in dual or extended mode? I have a GeForce 6200 video card with VGA and DVI ports, running on a windows XP PRO machine. Each monitor works well separately on either port, but the TV will not work with the primary monitor.http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/hwandprograms/monitors.mspx
"Extend my Windows desktop onto this monitor"

Heh, yea, I guess that was a bonehead move. I know enough to stay away from the little bits and pieces though, I kinda' just peeked in as far as I could without touching ANYTHING to see if I could pinpoint an obvious problem. But nah, it SEEMS to just be fizzing out slowly. The funny thing is that my system is RUNNING 100%, no PROBLEMS whatsoever.

I THINK we have found the root of the problem though, and I will replace it as soon as possible. I do appreciate your help.Do yourself a favor and don't buy a 20 Dollar special as a replacement...

I'm having problems with my computer recognizing my new USB 2.0 pci CARD. Recognition is sporadic. The original USB1.0 has 2 ports on the front of the computer, with a wire bundle leading to a small socket on the motherboard. It was suggested, here, that I leave it in, the more ports the better. There seems to be some conflict going on.
After installing, I plugged an external hard drive in and I got the "This device COULD RUN faster" message. I rebooted and got no message. The transfer rate was very fast. I assumed all was well, but next morning, turned on the computer, plugged in the drive and got the message again! This has happened several times.
Would it be ok to pull this old USB socket out?
Won't this force the computer to recognize the new USB card?
Do I have to disable it somewhere ELSE? I hope not. My ps2 port is fried. I only have a USB keyboard and don't know how to get into "Safe Mode". Is there a way to "reboot in safe mode" that I don't know about?
Please and thanks for any reply.


Mind Computer Products
Intel Celeron 1.80GHz
1 GB Ram
WinXP Home / SP2
Mainboard ECS P4VMM2
S3 Graphics ProSavageDDR
Vinyl AC'97 Audio
AVG free, SPYBOT, Ad-aware, SUPERAntiSpyware
CCleaner, HyJackthis, Malwarebytes' Anti-MalwareIs this a PCI USB 2.0 card ? ?
I'd return it for a replacement.
They are built rather cheaply...

Hi,
I have a toshiba laptop, (satellite L300), that had WATER spilled on it and the keystrokes fused on it...for example, "A" and "1" both end up as "a1" when you type one or the other, the same with "T" and "B".
I bought a new keyboard, but it is still exhibiting the same problem. Is there anything else that I can do, or is my laptop toast??
Thanksdid you let the water out of the laptop? From my experience with watter spill on desktop pc keyboards, you should leave it to DRY out for a long time (24 hrs at least) and see how it is. I would expect no different on a laptop keyboard.

Your laptop is not toast yet I don't THINK. And you bought a new keyboard, is that an external keyboard? It had dried out for SEVERAL weeks. It is the internal keypad/board. two screws at the top and the ribbon cable...etc. I think you need a new keyboard....

Quote from: Spoiler on June 02, 2009, 01:04:44 PM

I think you need a new keyboard....

I recenlty replaced my CRT w/ a HP 2009m FLAT panel monitor on a 4 year old PC. The monitor suggest a ratio of 1600 x 900 but on my setting I can not go that high.
Do I need a new video card or is there a better solution?Yes you will need a video card that will span those dimensions, otherwise you can go with 1024 x768, but dimensions of objects will be crushed and stretched if the display syncs at that.You might not need a new video card...try this first.

from the desktop click START, RIGHT-click MY COMPUTER>properties>hardware tab>device manager

Next to where it says "display adapters" click on the "+" sign. On the submenu, right click and then click "UPDATE" and see if Windows will look on the Internet for an updated driver...

If that doesn't fix the problem then most likely you need a video card that support the higher resolution

edit: I'm not sure if you can get to Device Manager that way in Win2000. If you have a hard time FINDING it, just type: devmgmt.msc into the RUN command

I went to us my cdrom drive, which I havent used for a long time, and I noticed after it wouldn't play that it is not listed in the my computer section. I thought that it was dead so I bought a NEW one and that on not reconized by the computer either. PLEASE help I don't know what to try next. ThanksIs this a ide or a sata drive?not sure the computer came from dell it is a cd/r dvd combo driveSATA uses the thin (narrow) cable and IDE uses the wide ribbon cable IDE You've probably got the jumper pin configuration incorrect on the back of the drive. Is there another drive CONNECTED to the same ribbon cable that the new cd/dvd drive is connected to?


edit: did you remember to connect the power cable to the drive (not only the data cable)

No it goes from the bak of the cdrom to the board. I put the ribbon back on the old cdrom drive.If it isn't set already, set the PIN on the back of the drive to MASTER and SEE if it shows up in my computer. If MASTER doesn't work, set the PIN to CABLE SELECT, and then see if it shows in MY COMPUTER


There should be some directions on how to do this on the drive itself..

Be sure the computer is off when you set the jumper pinIf you have it set to master or cable select & the power connected and it still isnt RECOGNISED try a new ribbon

Since it was released, I have had a Presario 900 (915US to be exact) with an AMD Athlon 1800+ processor. I just finished putting it back together after cleaning, and now have the INTEREST in replacing this Socket A processor with something FASTER. I am, however, concerned about installing a processor that generates more heat than the heatsink in my laptop was designed to handle. Also, I am not certain the motherboard will support a NEWER chip, as the repair manual lists this as the fastest chip this series shipped with.

What would you recommend?
- Don't even try! You'll melt something!
- You can try, but it probably wont work.
- Go for it!I cant find anything fasterQuote from: EchoLynx on May 31, 2009, 02:41:32 PM

Also, I am not certain the motherboard will support a newer chip, as the repair manual lists this as the fastest chip this series shipped with.

I have a motherboard ASUSTeK Computer INC. 'P4SD-LA' Rev 1.xx and I need a new video card that has ATLEAST 128 MB of video ram and has atleast 2.0 version of pixel shader. can someone help me PLEASE! and ALSO when i get this will i be ABLE to install it and put it in the computer...im not the familiar or skilled with computers...HAHA and its an HP pavillion desktop if that helps!Here's a video instruction to install a card.........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ILrq7lMe-0


Card selection will have to come from a more knowledgable source , and that isn't me.Ok your motherboard supports AGP video cards, and here is a list of AGP video cards with atleast 128MB, choose the one that fits your budget, they are in ascending order of price(low to high)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048%201069609639&name=AGP%204X%2f8X

Hello all, I have a pretty seriously problem with my home built computer. I have had it for about 7 years now and every two years or so I just upgrade a part on it. About 5 MONTHS ago it just stopped working and the harddrive failed. The power would turn on about once every 50 times i pushed the power button. So to clarify things, my computer would not start up, but if I kept pushing the power button and messing around with he power supply, the computer would finally start up.

Recently I decided to try and fix this problem and I drew the conclusion that it was either the motherboard or the power supply causing the problem. I bought them both and low and behold STILL WOULD NOT TURN ON. Now this new motherboard had a power switch on the board itself, which when turned on would trigger the lights of the motherboard so I would know the board was getting power. Whenever I pressed the power button on the board I would get nothing, no lights, no fan starting up, nothing.

So this brings me to my question. If a computer wont EVEN turn on and it doesn't seem that the motherboard is even receiving power... what could it be.

Here are my specs.
4G DDR2 RAM
2 80G SATA hard drives
CPU- AMD Athlon 64 x2 'ADA5200IAA6CS'
Motherboard- EVGA nForce 730a
Power Supply - BFG ATX 2.2
Graphics Card - Nvidia 8600 GTS

So I would really appreciate the comments. All I can think about is the CPU now being bad, but I don't understand why that could affect power capabilities. From research i have done, the Motherboard, CPU and Power supply are all compatible with each other.

the switch in the case gone bad is pretty much all I can think of. You do have standoffs in right?I would think the same ,[case switch]omg! you have 666 posts! hurry post something now!!!!!!!! So basically get a new case switch and be ghetto and plug it in and put the wire outside your case or get a whole new caseHow is that Computerruler? 666 doesnt mean anything. KEEP THE FAITHif 666 is bad, then 999 had to be bad too, in case somebody were to look at it upside down. Also, so should 333, since a basic multiplication can create 666.QUOTE from: computeruler on June 01, 2009, 06:47:57 PM

omg! you have 666 posts! hurry post something now!!!!!!!!

If you think it's the switch, and you have a reset button on the front panel , I think you could use the reset button for the PW-ON switch by plugging the reset connector plug to the PW-ON connection on the motherboard header. Of course you'll have no reset button on the front of the case....

Up until a few days AGO all was fine- but now when I plug into the laptop using the USB2 CONNECTION it is not being picked up
Have tested the USB ports with flash keys and they find those drives OK....could it be the cable or is the drive goosed?
Right click My Computer and select Manage...then Disk Management.
How is the external being reported there ? ?
Right click the drive and select Properties...Also...
Did you try the drive on another computer?I suspect it was unplugged prematurely...
But we'll see...Raw, huh?Well....Sure.hi , thanks for your reply
it is not showing there at all, all that is there is
C- main drive
E- dvd drive

I am very MUCH a novice here- can you take the TIME to explain how I can resolve?
Thanks in anticipation
JulieDid you try the drive on another computer?
It may be simply dead. Is it factory MADE external drive, or you used hard drive enclosure on regular hard drive?I have not had the opportunity to test on another computer-i will try-
However,on a post someone mentioned it being disconnected too soon
What does this do?
It could have been physically damaged.

I'm on a very tight budget at the moment so replacing this PC is presently not an option. PC is Compaq SR2150NX w/ ECS RC415ST-HM motherboard. HP/Compaq spec. page states Pent D 9xx CPUs are compatible with this MB. Memory is maxed out @ 2GB. I have been into "msconfig" and gotten it to recognize the 2nd core, but some of my programs are noticeably slower. I'm guessing the board while functional w/ Pent D 950 dual-core, is not optimized to take full advantage of dual-core processor.

I'm now thinking of installing a Pent 4 661 (3.6Ghz) and SELLING my Pent D 950. Does anyone think the P4 will yield better results ie. faster operation than D 950 on this motherboard or should I just REINSTALL the Celeron D 356 (3.33Ghz) that came with it?

I've been told a P4 of the same Ghz rating as a Celeron D is a faster processor running some if not most applications. Is this true?

Please help.
Thanks Quote from: blockHEAD on June 02, 2009, 04:14:50 PM

google for "CPU to Front Side Bus Ratio." I think you'll be surprised as to how all the components work together to attain a CERTAIN throughput for any given PC.
The speed/characteristics of your RAM plays an important roll as well

Anything at the ECS site on maximising a dual-core CPU ? ?
I doubt HP's site would be very detailed on this...

If i remember correctly ECS had a User Forum at one time....worth a look.

I have a Samsung Syncmaster 550s monitor. I downloaded the DRIVER for it from Samsung's support site and successfully installed it. However, while my monitors display works fine, none of the display setting buttons function. When I press one of the display settings buttons the green monitor light next to the power button temporarily flickers but nothing happens. I want to be able to adjust the screen size so that there is not a black BORDER. This cannot be done through control panel and must be done VIA the monitor display buttons. Any help would be appreciated.

My OS is WinXP.Monitor sounds defective for those controls...Should be able to use buttons on face of display without installing anything other than CORRECT drive for video card. Only then if the display does not support the RESOLUTION should there be any problems. If like you said you press the other buttons other than the power button and have no menu to adjust the display then the display sounds defective for the controls.how old is the monitors? Just wondering if you got warranty or you still have store receipt to exchange or return monitor .... fastest fix for the problem but ....The monitor is ancient by tech standards. It is at least 10 years old, probably more. Sounds like it is something that is not worth resolving. I just thought there may have been something that I overlooked.

Thanks

I was thinking the HARD drive SOUNDED SMALL because there were only 10gb of FILES and 16% free space...

I have an HP dv9000 notebook computer. About two months ago, I began having trouble with the cursor jumping around the page as I'm typing. Not only does it jump around, but also highlights and deletes portions of typed text. I’ve also had the cursor “jump” to the send BUTTON while I’m in the middle of typing an e-mail message.

Any idea what might be CAUSING this? The only way I can keep the cursor from jumping around is to click the button on the touchpad that locks the mouse.
Is this a new laptop/did you just get it?I've had the HP notebook about three years.And this is a recent problem?

My first guess would be you're touching the TOUCH pad whilst typing on the keyboard, causing the cursor to move about.

Do you think that may be the issue?I haven't noticed if I've been PRESSING the keys and the touchpad at the same time.Look out for that. You may be inadvertently touching it.

If not, we have a few more tricks up our sleeve.Thanks. I'll try holding my hands differently on the keyboard. I'll get back to you if the problem persists. I appreciate your help!I'm still having trouble with my cursor jumping around the page. When I wrote a few weeks ago, you said you had other ideas for solving the problem. Please help!The other solution would be to check for malware.

How did the other keyboard go?The other keyboard? I guess I didn't understand that from your previous message. Should I try an external keyboard to see if the problem continues? What is your RECOMMENDATION for checking for malware? I use Norton Utilities for my firewall protection. Is there another program you would suggest for detecting spyware and malware?When running off battery does the cursor jump around,....... or only when using power cord?.........or both ways.

In addition, Try control panel>mouse/touchpad> Find a checkbox that reads "disable touchpad when typing" and check it.Oh sorry, I misread the topic. It's been a while.

Try another external keyboard and mouse and see if the problem continues.FYI

When I disable the touchpad while typing the cursor does not jump around.

I'm moving over the next few days and can't get ahold of an external keyboard.

I'll try that and get back to you ASAP.

Thanks so much!

Dear Sir,

My neighbour bought 1 PC (i810 Motherboard) . In it only 2GB HDD was Installed. His pc is working fine. He told me to put 40 GB Hdd. I installed xp in it. And when I connected to his monitor (Techmedia). The screen comes till xp logo. And then the screen gets off of monitor. Cpu keep RUNNING. I tried many times to WORK on that monitor. But it is not working. And when I attached the same cpu of 40 gb to other monitor. It is working fine.

So pls help me why is this happening in my monitor. Do I NEED to do some bios setting or any thing. Pls help me.

Regards,
Anjeep

Did you re-install all the drivers after installing XP ? ?It doesn't need any mbd DRIVER to install. Only i installed in my 40 gb hdd is microsoft office 2003 that's it.

I have three SATA hard drives that I use in external cases. I used them without trouble on my Vista SYSTEM. Used a MATES computer that ran XP, initially they WORKED fine, but after a while they all failed. By failed, I mean that no computer will recignise them anymore. I purchased a new enclosure and ALSO plugged drives into motherboard with no success. A thought I had was they stopped working when the xp system was restarted with the HDD still plugged in. Is there a way these drives can be repaired or possibly reformatted without losing data. Not keen on sending to a tech and costing my hundreds of dollars.

Any help would be much appreciated. How long have you had the SATA drives?

You might try using a SATA to USB adapter to retrieve your data, however, I've never tried this before so I'm not sure of the success rate. Most likely, whether or not it works will depend on what exactly is wrong with the drives.

http://www.cooldrives.com/seatatousb20.html

Some SATA drives use a jumper pin on back for either 300 Mbps or 150 Mbps, be sure the board they're plugged into support 300 Mbps, otherwise you'll need to set the 150 Mbps jumper pin on them....So if they're not working on other computer, that could be whyThe SATA drives are two years old max.
Is it possible that the formatting became corrupt? Changing from NTFS and FAT (Vista to XP)
That fact that they originally worked on the older xp system then stopped had me thinking that when the computer booted with the drives plugged in it effected them in some way.Quote from: cc10 on June 01, 2009, 09:46:08 PM

Is it possible that the formatting became corrupt?

I know I formatted at least one in disk management. Is this bad?

RAW is bad news...

Yes it can.
Thumb drives use flash memory...different than how a HDD works but it can still happen.

If onboard video and an add-on card neither WORK i'm AFRAID it's the board.agreededAlthough I'm sad how this TURNED out, thanks for the help.

Quote from: computeruler on June 03, 2009, 07:44:27 PM

no you dont need a QUAD core. A very low dual core and that x1300 I would say would do it.

First let me give as much basic info that I can remember right off the top off my head.

My computer is a Gateway 7200XL, running Windows XP.

Recently had one of my two hard drives fail, so I was running just off the one.

Anyway, earlier today the power went off abruptly and was off for a few hours. Well after the electricity came back on the computer will not boot up at all. I get no message at all. You know how that when you first turn your computer on how the fan sounds like it is running very fast before settling down and going ahead and booting up; well this is what mine is doing. I can't get to safe MODE, BIOS, Restore or ANYTHING. The screen just stays black.

I WOULD appreciate any suggestions. I will check back tomorrow for any responses, it is a little late and I need to hit the sack.

Thanks in advance.How old is the computer?

Is there any indication that there is power to the monitor...(power light)?
Have you plugged the monitor into a different outlet, to try?
Are you sure the monitor DATA cable and power cable are securely connected, everywhere?

Was there any lightning/thunder, when the power went off?Most likley the power SUPPLY or mother board or both. Iwould replace the power supply first with equal wattage or greater.Take a good sniff at the power supply fan....does it smell like burnt electrical?.....Watch out for dust

Whilst troubleshooting a PC that is FAILING to bootup, I received - via a POST diagnostic card - the AMI BIOS Post Test Code 85:

Memory size check done
About to DISPLAY soft error and check for password or bypass setup

Can anyone shed any light on this error? WELCOME to the CH forums.

AFAIK that is not an error message just an advisory to SHOW the progress of the POST.

Perhaps if you define the problem with the pc someone might be able to assist.

Please read this..