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Computer:
Gateway GT5228
AMD Anthlon 64 X2 4200+
2GB DDR2 Memory
nVidia Geforce 6100
250 GB Hard drive SATA II
Windows XP Media Center

I'm having trouble turning on the computer. I press the start button and the light on the start button turns on but only for a split second, then it turns off.

POWER cable is fine. Could it be a problem with the power supply unit?

I was wondering if someone knows what the problem may be and if its something i could fix?

Thank you for your help.
Fairly new build...what happened prior to this ? ?
Any new hardware installed recently ? ?As far as i know it was working fine before. No new hardware has been added.Quote from: fireloop on December 04, 2009, 06:23:17 PM

...I'm having trouble turning on the computer. I press the start button and the light on the start button turns on but only for a split second, then it turns off...

Hey, I had a question about my motherboard so I thought I'd post my problem. I have the asus p5e motherboard. Had it for about 2 years now. Its real similar to the maximus formula, actually if you take the p5e sticker off the motherboard it says underneath it maximus formula. Well I've been trying to get into overclocking and noticed that my northbridge runs kinda hot. I've seen vids how some have taken their motherboard heatsinks off and taken the stock thermal compound off and put on their own to help lower the temps. I decided to remove mine and put some arctic silver 5 on. I removed it and cleaned the north and southbridge and the corresponding spots on the heatsink but on the other parts of the heatsink there are what I believe to be thermal pads. Heres some pics.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8466/motherboarde.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/6194/motherboardheatsink.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2342/motherboardpad.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7374/motherboardpad2.jpg

My main question is when I put this back on can I still use those pads and just reapply them or since they have been removed has it lessened the affect and they wont stay on good. Also could I purchase some that would be of better quality and just use those? Thanks for any help I appreciate it. 1) Once removed the pad material is worthless and needs to be removed and cleaned thoroughly replaced with a proper application of thermal paste/or a new thermal pad.

2) Having said that it seems you've gone to alot of trouble to lower your temps by a few degrees C...Did you consider a northbridge cooling fan before this experiment ? ?

I have 2 of the same boards and it worked RATHER well on my end for this...

How high are your temps BTW ? ?My motherboard was RUNNING at 38c idle but when I opened up the side of my case and put my HAND on the NB after about 3 seconds it would burn my hand. The paste that was on the northbridge was rock SOLID seems like real crappy stuff.

Wouldn't I have to take the mobo heatsink off to put a northbridge cooling fan on the chip? and the heatsink covers other components with the thermal pads. Wouldnt having a northbridge cooling fan instead keep those components from getting cooled? Never really thought much about getting a cooler for the NB. I dont know too much about this, I also wanted to just get some experience with it since im a noob guess that wasn't such a bright idea heh. I was just planning on putting some better paste and getting new thermal pads but i'll def have to look into what you said since it might work better. Thanks for the help btw man.

hi i want to know if i can UPGRADE my cpu to a QUAD core here is my information
Motherboard description

* Motherboard manufacturer's name: ASUS A8AE-LE
* HP/Compaq name: AmberineM-GL6E

CPU/Processor

* Socket: 939
* Supports AMD Athlon64, AMD Sempron and Athlon 64 X2 processors

Front-side bus (FSB)

* 2000MT/s or 1600MT/s, depending on what the processor supports

Chipset

* Northbridge: RS482

* Southbridge: SB400

BIOS features

* 4Mb LPC EEPROM
* HP BIOS with enhanced ACPI, DMI, Green, and PnP Features Plus

Form factor

* ATX form factor, 9.6 in x 9.6 in
Quote from: koolkai on November 17, 2009, 04:47:37 PM

...i want to know if i can upgrade my cpu to a quad core here is my information
Motherboard description

* Motherboard manufacturer's name: ASUS A8AE-LE
* HP/Compaq name: AmberineM-GL6E...

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00496280&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en

Motherboard description

* Motherboard manufacturer's name: ASUS A8AE-LE
* HP/Compaq name: AmberineM-GL6E

CPU/Processor

* Socket: 939
* Supports the following processors:
o AMD Athlon 64 X2 4800+
o Athlon 64 4000+
o AMD Sempron 3200+

can i put this in my motherbord?
AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Windsor 3.0GHz Socket AM2 125W Dual-Core Processor Model ADX6000IAA6CZ - OEM

I want to up grade my power supply so i can use a new video card
I have upgraded ram and changes disk drives but never up graded any higher
The question I have is, Is there such thing as to much of a power supply upgrade
and if my current chipset has a video driver on it how do I use a PCI-E video card?
Any info will help thanksQuote

Is there such thing as to much of a power supply upgrade

if my current chipset has a video driver on it how do I use a PCI-E video card

In some cases, the higher the power supply rating (in watts) the higher the minimum load (hardware) must be, in order for the PSU to stay on. In other words you probably don't want a supply with too high of a rating

I read this 4 times and i still don't understand what it's supposed to mean...

Minimum Power Supply Load


Also...

Quote from Upgrading and Repairing PC's:

Generally, the higher the rating on the supply, the more minimum load required. However, exceptions do exist, so this is a specification you should check when evaluating power supplies.



edit: I don't know why this post looks LIKE I used hyper link code on all of it. I only used the code on the "Minimum Power Supply Load"

Hello
I WANT to connect other PCs in my home to internet via cat5. The connection type is DSL. Someone tell me to make a PC as SERVER and make other as client. This process is expensive and hard for me, because I have no experimental in networking.
Is there any DSL modem that has switcher and can work like a server in home network?

Thanks
If all you want is internet - Just buy a cheap Ethernet Router and use that. If you want to sort of have a server you could buy a NAS Hard Drive which connects to your router and can be accessed on any networked computer allowing centralised storage and backups.Quote from: camerongray on December 06, 2009, 12:36:20 PM

If all you want is internet - Just buy a cheap Ethernet Router and use that. If you want to sort of have a server you could buy a NAS Hard Drive which connects to your router and can be accessed on any networked computer allowing centralised storage and backups.

Hey there,

I come to you seeking help with a problem which is very hard to define when searching the web; My computer seemingly randomly decided that my RESOLUTION of 1400x900 (or something near that) wasn't good enough and completely removed it from the list of CHOICES. Instead, I've been given a list of resolutions that do not fit my screen properly, resulting in squashed, difficult to READ text.

This is the second time it's happened and i CANT remember what i did to fix it last time (though I'm pretty sure it just corrected itself over a few DAYS).

The Resolutions it is giving me is:
800x600 - 1024x768 - 1152x864
1280x720 - 1280x768 - 1280x800
1280x960 - 1280x1024 - 1360x768
1600x900 - 1600x1024 - 1600x1200

Those are the ones I can use, it also gives me several other resolutions which are deemed "out of Range" by my monitor.

Any thoughts ?I reply to you with several questions:

1) Did you install the driver for your display?
2) Did you install the chipset driver?
3) Did you install the latest driver for your video card?
4) Any problems in device manager?

Can anyone tell me what size of motherboard I need to replace my trashed one. I figure this would be the BEST time to upgrade to another MB, CPU, etc. It will be a computer that my kids can play online games and do their homework on. I GUESS if someone could LET me know at least what size of MB will fit, I could probably figure out the REST. Thanks for your help.Okay, so after some more research, I think that the case is a Micro-ATX. If this is right, will any Micro-ATX motherboard work? Also, I have read through forums that Emachines PSU are problematic, what would be a safer, more reliable PSU to get.

Thanks to anyone who can help.

If i replace my 1.7 A [NON working adapter] with a 1.64A will it WORK?YES, if the voltage and the polarity are the same.

Hi,

Recently BUILT a NICE new computer =)

Windows 7 (64bit)
Core i7 2.8GHz -
Ram 6gb 1600Mhz DDR3
Velociraptor WD 300GB HD

However due to the config of my motherboard I can only use 4 of the 6GB of ram,

Im looking to purchase a SINGLE 2GB stick... everywhere I know of only sells it in packs of 2 or 3 s ticks

and when searching for 2gb, I always get given 2 X 1GB sticks

Anybody know where i can purchase a single DDR 3 compatable with:
Corsair Memory 1600MHz DDR3 CL8

Cheers

David
what i7 motherboard do you have that wont support more then 4Gbs or RAM?

one bit here from an english WEBSITE, because im not entirely sure where you are from
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/169270

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148310
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820146870
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148308
here are 3 modules from an american website, if your either from the UK or US either of these websites are worth noting. shop around on them and maybe you will find a module you will want

Doesn't make sense you would ask a question about RAM support and leave out the name..model# of the MBoard...
All i7 boards support 1-2G RAM per slot...I wish I had the same computer as you, SINCE mine is slow as *censored*.
You should look online at http://www.bizrate.com/ddr3-1600-megahertz-2-gigabytes/ for a good price.Sorry i wasnt very clear..

The motherboard supports 16GB...
I have 6GB... but because of the set up of the board, windows7 can only use 4 of the 6 (because its dual or something... the term is currently escpaing me!)

thanks for the websites ill have a look at them!

my problem is trying to purchase a SINGLE 2GB stick (clarification)


cheers

David

ah now that makes more sence, well good luck

Hello all,
I've got a Dell Studio 1535. When I put my laptop down on a flat surface (table, desk, etc.) he CPU fan always runs at high speed and never stops. But when I lift my laptop about an inch off the flat surface the fan goes down to normal speed. I put it back down on the table and the fan goes back up to full speed. So the only think that stops my fan from always running at full speed is putting my eye glass case at the top edge and operates normally. What gives, does this laptop have a light or level sensor that makes the fan speed up or slow down. Looking for some kind of answer to this mystery.

Thanks in advance.it has a heat sensor, basically when the PROCESSOR and motherboard gets too hot the laptop will pick up on this and turn the fan to a higher speed. when its on a flat surface the fan isnt PULLING as much air into the laptop and the components inside heat up. to combat this the computer speeds up the fans to once again increase airflow and REDUCE temparature.

if you want to put it on a flat surface, what i do is put 2 £1 coins under each of the corners to raise it up alittle, this doesnt impare its air flow. if your from american a few Quarters under each corner would help alsoThanks for the reply,
I think I figured out whats going on. I've got a Targus Travler Coolpad (see pic) that I put my laptop on. I think some how one of the little rubber bumpers was sort of blocking the air vent. I picked up my laptop and slide it over about half an inch to the right and it stopped. I'm guessing the VENTS have some kind of sensor or SOMETHING that detects when something is covering those vents.

It's working fine now.

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]excelent, well im glad you got it undercontrol, message back if you need any more helpThere are also some laptop holders that tilt the back of the unit up by a few inches and that allows for air flow. And because the keyboard is slightly tilted it makes for easier typing, more like a desktop keyboard.

Have just purchased 3gb ram and there's CERTAINLY a difference from my old 1.5gb!
So a standard question really.
Under My Computer|properties|advanced|performance settings, these are showing as:-
Processor Scheduling is adjusted for BACKGROUND services
Memory Usage is adjusted for system cache
Virtual memory for all drives is showing as 3071mb
- and virtual memory is system controlled.

Should l leave WELL alone or do you suggest any alterations to get the BEST use out of the new ram?
Thank youthey should both be set to the other option to get best results for FOREGROUND applications.And leave virtual memory aloneAllan,
Have reset the first two and eft the memory alone as you suggested.
Thanks for the reply.

Machine is a refurbished emachine tower with Vista. Speakers produce a test sound when you click on the "Test speakers" icon. BUT, nothing comes out if you play music stored on the machine or play a CD or play something from an outside souce. Sound card screen says "this device is working properly."

Seems like there's a mute button I can't find or a volume control set to zero. All the ones I see are properly set.

Ideas?Have you tested sounds from Control Panel - Sounds?Thanks, Allan. Control Panel for Sound gives 3 boxes: 1)Playback, 2)RECORDING, and 3)Sounds.
2) shows MIKE and aux in are working,and line-in not plugged in
3) looks like sound effects for specified events. Relevant here?

1) says: Speakers-Realtek High Definition Audio Not Plugged In, and
: Realtek Digital Output-Realtek High Definition Audio is working

As I mentioned before, the speakers are plugged in and produce sound if you test the speakers.Forgot to mention that the online Emachine "manual" does not show exactly the same keyboard they sent me. The one I got (unlike the one pictured) has at the top a button with a speaker icon with a diagonal line through it and tabs on either side with down (L) and up(R) arrows. I've fiddled with this stuff too to no avail. However, maybe there's somewhere else on the keyboard governing volume. Or I just haven't done the right thing at the top of the keyboard.While in the control panel applet, when you play individual sounds associated with events in the Sounds tab above, can you HEAR them?No.
Sound comes from speakers only when you go to RealtekHD Audio Manager, configuration, with stereo checked and line-out jack into a light green hole in the back of the tower. Click on the picture of a speaker, and you get a short spurt of "music." Problem solved.
I broke through to "Rory" at the help desk of Seneca, the outfit that refurbished the machine. He guided me to a screen I'd seen before, but didn't know what it meant. This was Speakers - Properties - Advanced, where something inside a box labelled Exclusive MODE was checked. I unchecked both and now have sound.
Thanks for your time and patience, Allan. I hope this experience HELPS you and others. -- Denis

I have a HP 2133 mini NOTEBOOK with 1024 MB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM SODIMM. I am intending to upgrade to 2GB and wondered if I could use the 1GB chip in my Toshiba Satellite A100.Rickb, Run a free memory scan from "Crucial" to determine what the ram type (obviously what are using) and the amount the computer can use. Then run the same scan on the Toshiba and see what it has and then you should have your answer.truenorthThanks for that. I have to ADMIT I did try the old fashion method of inserting and seeing what happened ! It does work ! But thanks for your TIME and I'll remember the advice for the futureToshiba Satellite A100 supports DDR2-533.
DDR2-667 is backward compatible to slower speeds.

Hi everyone, I am a computer newbie here and I would like to gain as many information as possible on processors. How do you differentiate between high and low performance processors? ALSO, how do know which processor would suit to yr needs?

Thanks in advance to those who replied Low end processors don't cost much, high end processors cost mucho $$$. You know which processor suits your needs by doing a thing called "research". Is this your homework?
I have looked through websites that give information about processors. The thing is, it's COMPLICATED for a newbie like me.(well, maybe i can't understand IT stuff well but would like to learn more)

I am joining this forum because i want to know more about computer hardware.Well, the fact is that on a forum like this, we are geared to answering specific QUESTIONS like "Will a Core Duo processor work with my motherboard?". Asking "Please TELL me all about processors" is unlikely to GET many takers.

Hi computer world,
I have this computer that i ussaly play games on but the graphics are a bit bad is there a way i can increase the GRAPHIC power in the Bios? By the way this in an onboard graphics card. My motherboard is a Asus P4PMX800 Motherboard. I can't buy a graphic card for the motherboard has only 3 PCI ports no PCIE ports. Two of them are taken.

80 GB hhd
2.80 GHz Processor
DVD burmer
1 GB RAM

Any Help?

more ram, bettter CPU, bigger hdd, and 1gb GFX Gard (nivida 9500GT)i told you i can't place a graphic card in and i want to overclock it. I know it's possible!Quote from: idspence on December 10, 2009, 09:30:34 PM

more ram, bettter cpu, bigger hdd, and 1gb GFX Gard (nivida 9500GT)

i told you i can't place a graphic card in and i want to overclock it. I know it's possible!

Quote

Cable_Select indicates the drive's position on the cable will determine its role. I believe "Master" is on the far end of the cable, "Slave" is in the middle; but I'll have to check. When using cable select, I'm assuming both drives should be set to cable select (again, I'd have to check). If both drives don't support cable select, I'm assuming it shouldn't be used (again, I'd have to check).

... [/i] Rebooted, got a black screen message saying: "The firmware detected a CMOS battery failure occurred. Press Enter to continue" Pressed Enter, Got message: "Press F-11 to start recovery" BUT it was only on the screen for a few seconds and then Windows loaded!...

"Free" is good. Is there a link for that?

All I see at http://www.macrium.com is a download link for "Macrium Reflect Full Edition v4.2 - 30 day Trial".

hello all,

i CURRENTLY have a PNY Nvidia GeForce 9800GTX+ 512MB video card installed on my computer, i have a 19" samsung widescreen monitor running at resolution 1440x900.
what i want to KNOW is if my graphics card will be able to comfortably handle this INCREASE of resolution (to 1920x1200) and if so, how much will it slow it down.
i want the bigger screen to play games such as world of warcraft and TF2 which, at the MOMENT, im having absolutly no problems performance wise. but will i still get a decent performance from games like crysis and Empire total war?

any help will be greatly appreciatedYes the max REZ the card will hold is 2048 x 1536
http://www.xfxforce.com/en-us/products/graphiccards/9series/9800gtx%20.aspx?lang=en-us#2cheers, any idea on the performance difference?

I've been using a Slingbox for the past 2 years with pretty good SUCCESS. The hardware has been located in a friend's house, connected to his cable line and his internet feed.

Recently, my friend moved and his new house is located outside the city limits, in an area where cable TV is not available. As a result, he now has Satellite TV. I know that there are some differences in using the Slingbox with cable and satellite. A have heard that with satellite TV, I would be "sharing" whatever he's watching, unlike with cable where it makes no difference what is on the host TV.

I would like to resume my Slingbox connection ASAP. I am wondering what my options are in leaving it at my friend's house with satellite TV. If it's possible to use additional hardware, what do I need to do? Generally speaking, is a slingbox's satellite RECEPTION better or worse than with cable? If possible, I would prefer to keep it there rather than find a new home.Is this what you have?
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/slingbox.htm
The quality can be very poor to very good.
It requires a internet connection.
It requires a cable or satellite box somewhere.
Doing a 'piggy back' is not a good idea, and may violate the service contract of the TV provider.

It is, IMO, not a cost EFFECTIVE way to watch TV.
It is a gadget for people who like gadgets.

For EXAMPLE,
ATT&T offers Phone, TV and Internet bundle for about $100 a month.

Others have similar BUNDLES.

I am not sure if this is the right section for this question, if not I apologize.

I am fixing a computer for a friend and have a problem that I cannot find a solution for. This is a 6 year old custom built computer which runs GREAT now but has a weird issue still remaining. When running scans or immunization with SpyBot search and destroy or deep scans with SUPERAntiSpyware the computer reboots itself. SpyBot gets through about 1400 files on scanning before reboot, and not at all on immunization, but it will update just fine. SuperAntispyware will get through about 75% of a deep scan before it reboots. I cannot find any other programs on the MACHINE which cause this to happen.

I have run other programs such as AVG, Malwarebytes etc, which complete their scans with no problems but report no infections found.

I have tried un-installing and reinstalling these programs but the problem remains.

Inside the computer it is clean as a whistle with no dust or dirt build up remaining.

The device manager SHOWS no problems with any drivers.

The machine does have four fans inside. One on the back of the case itself, one on the graphics card, one on the CPU and one on a heat sink sitting on the motherboard itself with AGP 8X written on it. This last fan does not appear to be working but the others are.

Everest program shows the internal temps to be :
Motherboard 38 °C (100 °F)
CPU 63 °C (145 °F)

Since these appear to be within normal operating range for the type of motherboard and CPU, I don't think it is a thermal issue.... But I could be wrong.

When I set the system to not auto-reboot after system failure, running the two programs results in a BSOD which does NOT indicate a specific DRIVER or other issue as a cause. It gives a generic stop message beginning with 0X0000008E which apparently relates to a hardware issue. However there has been no new hardware or software installed prior to the issue appearing last week and everything else is working very well.

Does anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this? THANK you.

Paul

Dell XPS GEn 5
Windows XP

Mu computer was installing a windows UPDATE this morning and froze on "Windows is Shutting Down". Couldn't Control Alt Delete out of it. so I had to unplug the power. Now it is totally dead and will not come on when I PUSH the power button. This is teh 2nd time it did this when doing a Windows Update. I checked the connections, unplugged everything, replugged everything made sure the outlet was good. Not sure if this has to do with the update or power supply, but no lights, nothing, although the monitor still has an amber light when I reconnect it Your mistake was pulling the plug. Next time push and hold the power button for 5+ seconds. I would check the power slupply but this may be a trashed computer. The amber light will appear when the moniter is on. but no input is enabled,I did hold in the power button but it would not turn off the computer, which is why I had to resort to the power cord thingUpdates should NEVER be interrupted...
It may appear to have frozen but it is doing it's work in the background.
If the machine will not boot at all you may need to do a Repair Install of XP...QUOTE from: patio on December 11, 2009, 07:29:50 AM

If the machine will not boot at all you may need to do a Repair Install of XP...

Hi again guys,

I was wondering,
I have a STICK of ram (2GB DDR2) that can run at 800 MHZ.
Should I buy a couple more and GO to 6GB at 800 Mhz,
go with 4GB 1066,
or go all the way with DDR3 ?

By the way, I'm talking about Windows 7, and I would like to run things like GTA IV, and some other games.Then SPEND what you can afford. I see no reason what-so-ever why we shouldn't spoil ourselves occasionally.Since I'm going to upgrade motherboard and processor,
this question might be predictable.

Should I go with AMD or Intel?
I want a Quad-Core, and I'm looking at DDR3 1600 Memory, maybe 1333 if the processor can only take 1333.
I'm also looking at price, I'm not willing to pay "tons" of money on it, but I'd like your guys' opinion.

Right now, I have an AMD Phenom II X4 925 AM3 processor I'm looking at, but that might change.
It's at about $170 I think.
Would Intel's performance be the same/better for the same price?Personally I would suggest the intel chip as they are more in touch with the high end video cards. AMD and ATI have a thing going that is somewhat unreliable.Quote from: Quantos on December 05, 2009, 04:34:08 PM

AMD and ATI have a thing going that is somewhat unreliable.

I am facing a challenging problem. my laptop's keyboard works when the computer starts, but then it will stop working when the computer resumes from sleep or hibernation.

it does work to bring the computer out of sleep mode, but I cannot type my password at the WELCOME screen.

I also noticed that I cannot get to setup config during system STARTUP because the keyboard isn't working then.

I am running Windows Vista SP1 on a compaq presario cq50-115NR


Any help will be appreciated!Try using a PNP (Plug-and-Play) keyboard. Boot up and use that keyboard to check your settings in control panel. Also, check to make sure there's no driver issues in device manager. If there isn't, uninstall your keyboard driver then right-click and "search for new drivers" and let windows install a FRESH one.

While you're at it, run a Virus scan if you have one.I fixed the problem by removing the keyboard and then reattaching it.You removed the keyboard from the laptop and then reattached it???

I want to buy a 4 GB or 8 GB flash drive for my brother-in-law for Christmas. He travels all over the planet in SHORT trips and takes lots of photos. I thought of a flash drive for him to use to store his photos until he gets home. Anybody have any recommendations as to best model to use??? Thanks for reading, JIMI don't know that there is a "best". I've never had a problem with Sandisk, Kensington, Sony.What camera does he use? Many have a USB connector ot upload photos, but that requires a PC available. But those kind do not interface directly to a Flash Drive.

How does he transfer files from his camera to his PC?
Find out if he usese a Compact Flash Card in his camera. And which kind.
You caould buy him a pair of Flash Cards for the camera.
When he fills one, he puts in the other.
Google Compacr FlashCards
http://www.memorysuppliers.com/compactflash.html
Or, Camera memory
http://www.photographyreview.com/memoryguidecrx.aspx
The later is more informative. Please readRight now he downloads his photos from the camera to a MINI book that has a USB port, and is running Windows XP.. Then he uploads(?) the photos onto a CD with an external CD/DVD Burner that he packs around. I thought that maybe a flash drive would eliminate one step in his procedure. (burning a CD on the external burner). I do not know what his camera is but it is an old one that was quite expensive and he doesn't want to upgrade?? I think his camera does use a 1GB SD card. Not sure. Thanks for your help, JIMQuote from: Allan on December 07, 2009, 10:26:26 AM

I don't know that there is a "best". I've never had a problem with Sandisk, Kensington, Sony.

Computer_Commando:I was a little hesitant about SanDisk as I questioned the reliability of the sliding contact on the connector. I have had no experience with it so I don't really know. Have you used it much?? Thanks again everyone, JIM

I'm working on a Lenovo 3000 c100, and running Windows XP. I have all the service packs up and running, my virus scanner and firewall are up to date, and I've already run a virus scan.

I know it's not a problem with any of the keys, because all the other function option keys still WORK (Example: I can still use the function key to adjust the screens brightness), and the keys that host the function options still works. (Example: The volume up function option is on the f1 key, and the f1 command still works if pressed, but the volume up command does not).

The only exception to this is that they work if the volume control panel it open.

I've run out of ideas of what is wrong with it, and I don't really WANT to dig through my system and possibly make things worse without knowing what I'm doing, so I've decided to ask you guys.

If I've LEFT out any information that could be useful, let me know and I'll be glad to fill it in.

Thanks in advance.There is some icon in the bottom right of the screen which you can use.

Hi,

I am using Pentium D 925 3.0 GHZ.

I have overclocked it to 3850 MHZ, but now ( with stock cooling ) the temperatures raise up rapidly.

My current fan is Cooler Master (no model name)

I`d like to purchase this cooler : http://www.foxconnchannel.com/product/Coolers/detail_reviews.aspx?ID=en-us0000053

Is it better then the current ?

Thank you in advance.Cooler Master makes a variety of HSFs.

We can't answer without a model number (or at least a picture).

...then again, you did say "stock cooling..."

In any case, TRY this bad boy out:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118046&cm_re=Zalman-_-35-118-046-_-ProductOK...whatever...

Will the cooler that I have chosen do the trick ?Why are you OC'ing that CPU ? ?
It doesn't handle it very well to begin with ...Quote from: imperator on December 09, 2009, 01:04:43 PM

...I am using Pentium D 925 3.0 GHZ.
I have overclocked it to 3850 MHZ, but now ( with stock cooling ) the temperatures raise up rapidly...

OK...whatever...

Will the cooler that I have chosen do the trick ?

OK...whatever...

I am currently using Dell Inspiron 9400 with XP. I have owned it for about 3/4 years and has been as tough as nails when it's come to the abuse I've given it, it's had most Adobe programmes ran on it and some industry quality 3D programmes such as Maya. It's had to be formatted once twice but like I say it's been a god-send, now I'm in the market for a new one as I imagine within the next 6 months it's due to die one way or another.

I don't use programmes like Photoshop or 3D producing programmes and won't really need to due to the career I'm in now, so predominantly it will be used for web browsing, multimedia and downloading and basic gaming (NOTHING like Crysis, games like Age of the Empires & Zoo Tycoon, basic simulators, other games get played on the 360. My brother owns an Apple laptop, I don't find this enticing at all so apples out of the question as I'm fine with WMP and a software for syncing my iPod with WMP.

I have been INCREASINGLY interested in all in one pcs lately as my work load that I require my PC for has slowed down, no extremely demanding software like PS etc, and it would be miles easier for it to be my multimedia hub instead of having to have an ethernet cable from one to the side of room to the other to connect my xbox 360 and HD tv to the internet for xbox live and for streaming films via TVersity. If I could possible get a all in one with the 25" screens I have seen available, I am sure it would suite me fine to replace my TV providing screen is HD ready and has competent sound for gaming, music and film. HDMI port is needed for xbox 360.

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/martprd/store/[emailprotected]@[emailprotected]@&BV_EngineID=ccdjadejddjlhehcflgceggdhhmdfom.0&page=Product&fm=null&sm=null&tm=null&sku=873755&category_oid=-37526

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/martprd/store/[emailprotected]@[emailprotected]@&BV_EngineID=ccdhadeimmlfdehcflgceggdhhmdfon.0&page=Product&fm=null&sm=null&tm=null&sku=388915&category_oid=-37526

These are the two I've been thinking about and may fit my criteria. The only thing I would want to add on is some external speakers, not surround sound but just a bigger speakers either side and a few external HDD and in the future, as I wouldn't be using a desk, just sit on office chair or bed, superior quality keyboard.

My most used softwares at the moment is Windows media player, Bit Torrent, VLC player and Internet Explorer so you can understand I only have basic requirments. Blu-ray would be a need to as it's definitely needed in the future and I wouldn';t minding buying some of my favourite films in Blu ray to experience the quality and difference.

Any help appreciated kind regards

J









I would say the HP TouchSmart IQ845uk as it is more powerful than the Sony. It also has a larger hard drive compaired to the Sony.

I would, however say to look elsewhere to PC World as I have had many bad experiences with them and found this to be the same with many people.This only an opinion.
I don't like all-in-one anything.
I am now retired. I no longer have a work load. But I was never satisfied with anything that was all in one box.Now I use two computers on a regular basis. Beth on the same desk. I have a VGA switch that allows me to use both monitors on one computer, if I need it. Looks very ugly, but I like it.

http://geek9pm.com/images/my_shack.jpg
warning: link contains graphical material that may shack neat people.I have to agree, All-in-one's seem like a good deal, but it severely limits upgrades, and if one component breaks, you cannot simply buy a new one- for example, a new monitor.


@Geek:

you mean use both computers with one monitor right?I understand but thing is, it just seems perfect to have an all in one:

-Basic PC facilities such as downloading, surfing the net, e-mailing and not very demanding games such as Age of Empires, Zoo Tycoon, games that aren't on consoles.

-Do it all media hub, watch blu-ray films aswell downloaded films, play music and plug in via HDMI my xbox 360 all on a HD ready good quality 25.5" monitor.

-All very space efficent, as the PC stand/desk could be got rid of and alot of cables can disappear.

Are the Dell Studio Hybrids just as limited with upgrades and repairs?What desktops would suite my facilities?What about Alienware Aurora with a few minor mods - blu-ray drive, better sound card, bigger internal memory for storage and a better soundcard kitted up with a 27" Samsung monitor.

Can monitor work as TV in terms of pure viewing purposes for films and gaming without any problems? Considering desktop as long as not extremely noisy or bulky.Quote

you mean use both computers with one monitor right?

What desktops would suite my facilities?

Sounds real silly, but I do not know how to open up my IBM NetVista 8307 to where the HDD is. I tried from the side, but not enough room to play with. Also, is there enough space for a second hardrive?

I want to install a new 80GB Hardrive as the master and use the old 40GB as the slave. Now, the old HDD is more than four years and seems to be running fine. I have Windows XP on the old DRIVE. The new one is GOING to have the same windows. I mainly save pictures and retouch my photos. I rarely play games other than Scrabble or solitaire.

I have replaced hardrives in a Compaq with no problems. It was easy. But with this one, I can't even open it up to where the HDD's are accessible.

Are there instructions to open the darn THING?

And tell me, what does it mean when the graphics are not aligned when I am on the Internet? Boxes are merged or shifted and fonts are overlapping other areas. Even different colors are shifted; misaligned. What does this mean?Manual: ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/netvista_pdf/24p2969.pdf, page #73Quote

And tell me, what does it mean when the graphics are not aligned when I am on the Internet? Boxes are merged or shifted and fonts are overlapping other areas. Even different colors are shifted; misaligned. What does this mean?

Do yourself a favor and don't buy a 20 Dollar special...No, I won't be GOING for the bargain basement PSU's. I kind like the one that I borrowed. It was Corsair 650W modular. I had looked at those ONLINE and at least to me the modular seems to be more of a benefit because you are only using the cables you need as opposed to the other type of PSU with the massive cluster of connectors and wires on it that would be enough to choke Godzilla.Quote from: Puter Moron on December 07, 2009, 05:42:01 PM

...I kind like the one that I borrowed. It was Corsair 650W modular...

I was just at this WEB site
http://www.spcug.org/reviews/vlba9811.htm

And it shows you the formula for finding out how mutch Video RAM will be used to display moniters.

Ok so I get Herizantle REZ X Verticale REZ X Bit Depth = Video RAM in BYTES or is it Bits then you Divide by something to get MB.

And this is what your video card will use per sec to display and inage on screen.

I did not get what you Divide by to get Mega BYTE and first off is it giving us it in Bytes or Bits.
ThanksQuote from: nymph4 on SEPTEMBER 06, 2008, 01:50:54 PM

Ok so I get Herizantle REZ X Verticale REZ X Bit Depth = Video RAM in Bytes or is it Bits

I was just at this web site
http://www.spcug.org/reviews/vlba9811.htm
I did not get what you Divide by to get Mega Byte and first off is it giving us it in Bytes or Bits.
Thanks

So it's Herizantle x Verticale x Bit Depth = Memory in Bits then take that and Divide by 8,388,608 is that it do I have it now??

I'm having a problem installing XP on my new PC. I put the install disc in, and SET the boot order in BIOS to my CD-Drive. It goes, but stop when it comes to the line Verifying DMI pool data. It won't go past this no matter how long I WAIT. I'm hoping it's nothing wrong with my parts. Any HELP you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Any questions on parts and such, just ask.what version of XP are you installing on your PC Home or Professional? What are you installing over the top of?I am installing Home edition, and I am trying to install on a new hard drive.Quote from: xavierfan1 on December 10, 2009, 01:35:58 PM

what version of XP are you installing on your PC Home or Professional? What are you installing over the top of?

I have a iomega 100mb EXTERNAL zip drive that i need to buy some disks for. It's the only way im able to save projects from my drummachine. After SPENDING some time, i found some cheap disks at amazon, they are PREFORMATTED for ibm compatible pc's. My question is: can i use them EVEN though i dont have a ibm pc?


LINK to the disks : http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00005TZ99/ref=sr_1_olp_19?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1260361954&sr=1-19&condition=new

Hope some of you guys can help me out.Yes, of course.super. thank you!

Does anyone KNOW anything about a Dell Studio Laptop. I am trying to fix a buddy of mines computer. I cannot get any sound to come from it. If I go into the sound properties you can see the little equlizer playing but no sound coming from it. I tried deleting the drivers and reinstalling them but that doesn't work. Any feedback would be great!The first question would be: if you don't know how to fix it why did you offer to repair it?
Look in device MANAGER - any yellow exclamation marks?it thought it would be an easy task. There are no yellow exlamations.Go to start - run and type sndvol.exe (press enter). Make sure the volume setting is appropriate and nothing is muted. If these settings are correct there may very well be a hardware problem.nothing is muted. I did a dell diagnostic and I had no issues. Who knows. I think the laptop is still under warranty.
Yes I have tried that and still nothing.Quote from: xavierfan1 on December 10, 2009, 11:46:58 AM

Does anyone know anything about a Dell Studio Laptop. I am trying to fix a buddy of mines computer. I cannot get any sound to come from it. If I go into the sound properties you can see the little equlizer playing but no sound coming from it. I tried deleting the drivers and reinstalling them but that doesn't work. Any feedback would be great!

Let me know if i did this WRONG but i went into Computer Setup by pressing F10. At the end of the MENU, there was "Set Defaults and Reboot" which i selected. ONce it rebooted, it continued to keep restarting.

I'm sorry, 2 & 43?

Hi,

I was wondering if i can get some assistance from you with my desktop computer. I have just finished building up my desktop from scratch for the first time. When i pushed the power button, nothing happen. I did not hear the power supply running nor did i see any LED lights on on the front panel. I have checked all my connectors on the motherboard. I am sure it's plugged with power cord at the back of it. Wonder if anyone would be kind to give me some guidance here as to what REALLY causes it not to run at all.

Thank you in advanceYou may have not connected the on/off switch to the board correctly.. Be sure it is connected to the correct set of pins on the mboard. And be sure the hard switch on back of the psu is in the "on" position..

Quote

I have just finished building up my desktop from scratch for the first time.

i FRIED my old power supply, ( i hope it is only the power supply and not the mother board as well ) plugged my CANADIAN computer into a brittish power outlet and forgot to flick the switch on the back from 110v over to 220. " POP " followed by the magic smoke escaping.. tried to poke the smoke back in but that didnt work. jokes aside, i bought a new power supply and am trying to install it myself.

the cd drive and hard drive both use 15 pin sata connectors and while the new power supply has two connectors they are both on the same strand of four wires.

afraid that plugging both the hard drive and cd drive on the same set of wires would increase the resistance and mess up the amperage going to the components resulting in their failure, i took a crimp style sata connecor off the old power supply and attached it to one of the unused 4 pin connectors on the new power supply ( ignoring the orange WIRE as the original power supply did not have orange wires going to the sata connectors at all )

is this ok? or can i plug both the cd drive and hard drive in on the same set of wires? or is there a better idea i just havent thought of?Using both connectors on 1 lead is fine...as long as it's not a cheap PSU.
But with only 2 SATA power connectors i suspect it may very well be...uhh its a http://www.highpowerplus.com/405.htm

and is there anything wrong with using a crimp sata connector on the four pin lead?It should work just fine, if you crimped it properly. SATA HDD's don't even use the orange wire, (+3.3V),
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA
Adapters exist which can convert a 4-pin Molex connector to a SATA power connector. However, because the 4-pin Molex connectors do not provide 3.3 V power, these adapters provide only 5 V and 12 V power and leave the 3.3 V lines unconnected. This precludes the use of such adapters with drives that require 3.3 V power. Understanding this, drive manufacturers have largely left the 3.3 V power lines unused.well im prety sure i have it RIGHT.. i followed the wires out so that it is laid just like the other connector, with the second black and the red wires crosses so that it is yellow back red yellow instead of yellow black black red..

im actually an automotive mechanic so im confident that i put it in the same way i took it out.. its just i dont actually know what i am doing so i am hesitant about turning it on after i have MODIFIED it after taking it out of the box.

but in my mind if the wires are all color coded for certain voltages then i see no reason why it would matter which ones you use as long as they are the right color.

but knowing that putting the crimp on there is an ok idea as well as putting both the hard drive and cd drive on the same lead is ok. i should be good thank you for your help




grew the balls. plugged it in. turned it on works good.
the cd drive did not work at first but i suspected the crimp did not bite through the coating properly so i trimmed the plastic off so the crimp would connect properly and now the cd drive works

p.s. i linked the power supply. it IS good enough to have the cd drive and hard drive on the same lead right? curious..Again...yes.

i am trying to reload xp on to my Dell XPS/DIMENSION XPS Gen 3 but when i hit opp 1 to in stall it has blue screen saying can not find any hard drive help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!You're trying to reinstall Windows why?More Details on this dilemna are needed...Your installation is TELLING you it can't find the hard drive, because you do not have the drivers installed for the SATA drive(s) that come with this particular model.

During installation, you will be prompted to press F6 to install these drivers. Make sure you have the drivers available.

For more information about your machine, go here: Dimension XPS Gen 3

Hello
I WANT to buy HP 1005 laser JET printer. It can not turn paper to print two side of paper.
Can it print two side of paper by printing odd pages first and then printing even pages?
there is no information in HP website about it.

Thanks
I can't see why not - I do it with my HP PSC InkjetDear Camerongray
I don't want to turn paper manually one by one. if you print 40 or more pages this WORK is too tiresome.
the printers that can print two side are too expensive. is there any suggest?k_moshen, Even though i do own a laser printer i have no experience with them.However some items of concern i would have:
1.Does laser printer paper (universally) permit the "burning" on both sides?
2.All the printers i have had so far permit the selection of all pages or specified from/to (1-4) for example but i am not aware that they permit designating sequential odd/even criteria designation (however camerongay seems to have one that does). It of course could be done by only (one at a time ) designating odd/even pages. That seems to be as time consuming as flipping pages at each page however. truenorth
P.S. I am aware of ink jets that do allow both side printing --i don't know if there are LASERS that do so.Somewhere there is an option to print on both sides. And not one sheet at a time.
You can print, say, twenty pages of the odd numbers, flip the twenty pages over and print the even numbers. Now you have a foty page document with only twenty sheets of paper.
Look here:
It's called "manual duplex". Even if your printer driver does not support the hand-holding steps, you can just go in the page selection of your word processor print dialog and select the odd numbered pages explicitly - for example 1,3,5,7,9,11 and after printing turn the stack over & select 2,4,6,8,10,12 & put the paper back in the printer.

I ditched my Canon inkjet which had a duplexer and bought a cheap Canon laser printer for less than the cost of the inkjet cartridges. This has no duplexer and manual duplex works just fine.


According to HP website the printer supports manual duplexing http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/printer/LaserJet/1/storefronts/CB410A%2523ABAEvery printer "supports" manual duplexing. Some printer drivers make it easier by having a manual duplexing feature in the print dialog, with stuff like automatically selecting odd or even pages, PROMPTING you to take the paper out, flip it over, reinsert it, etc. Otherwise you have to think it out for yourself. The only thing to watch out for with an inkjet is to let the ink dry before reinserting the stack. Oh and of course getting the paper orientation right. But a simple test document will show you that.



Buy a HP 1320

It does duplexing.

Brother HL-5250 and higher models auto-duplex.

I love my Brother. I wish I had one when I was a kid. I have 3 brothers...not one of them knows anything about printing...and they're all older than i am...thanks everyone

in my place there is no shopper and supporter for Brothers printer.
and also HP 1320 not imported and in the market I can not find this model.
I think the proposal of "Salmon Trout" is good for cheap printer.
and if driver of HP 1005 really can support, I can print two-side whit odd/even printing.

thanks

Hi there,

Two questions.

1) I have a Hp pavilion 750uk - AMD Athlon 64 3200+ - 512MB DDR - 160gb HDD - NVIDIA GeForce FX5500 - 256mb video memory.

Where can I look for infomation about this PC...technical spec. etc.

Would the Hp web site be a good place.

Have you a better idea!!!

2) This PC has a noisey video card fan, the fan itself feels WOBBLY when pushed side to side....( is this just the type of fan ??)

Spec:-

Video card - C1VBR0 - HP p/n 5187 - 5256 -- C49S189 -00502 s/n:49CM2M5787 -

CZB4420J6Y (on bar code label).

FAN - SUNON - Maglev fan - 124010VM - 14.ms.ct.57 - DC 12v = 1.0w - CHO435 zp clx

Can I still purchase a new fan or SIMILAR... whefe would be the best place to look.

Many thanks

Steve





Remove the vid card...
Carefully remove the vid card fan...
Take it to your LOCAL PC shop and find a match for it..

I've rescued many flakey vid cards this way.

Lately my computer has been freezing, and then unable to get through POST. The diagnostic LIGHTS were telling me graphics card error, so I took my card out and it had two cracked capacitors on it. However, even with the card out the computer was still telling card error. So I left it for about a week FIGURING it was hopeless. Today I TRIED turning it on just to see and it booted up fine. Then, after about an hour of use, it froze again and wouldn't boot back up. I opened it up and fiddled with a few of the connections and it booted back up. Does anyone have any clue as to what might be causing this?You could try another graphics card to test the result. I suspect it my not be the only thing that has some sort of damage to it.truenorthQuote from: pmheideman on December 05, 2009, 10:24:36 PM

...
1. The diagnostic lights were telling me graphics card error.
2. I took my card out and it had two cracked capacitors on it.
3. Does anyone have any clue as to what might be causing this?

Lately my computer has been freezing, and then unable to get through POST. The diagnostic lights were telling me graphics card error, so I took my card out and it had two cracked capacitors on it. However, even with the card out the computer was still telling card error. So I left it for about a week figuring it was hopeless. Today I tried turning it on just to see and it booted up fine. Then, after about an hour of use, it froze again and wouldn't boot back up. I opened it up and fiddled with a few of the connections and it booted back up. Does anyone have any clue as to what might be causing this?

"card out" means he removed the card. the issues STILL persist, therefore the issue is no longer solely from the card, but appears to be satellite damage to the motherboard from the failed graphics card.

Of course it would still persist. The diagnostic lights (probably a Dell), show a graphics card error with the card out or the card in. He never really said what the "issue" was, but the diagnostic lights are good enough for me.

My old computer mother BOARD went south but the hard drive is OK. My question is can i get the programs off the old drive and use them on the new computer? Both have XP OS.
Thanks with any helpNo.
You cannot simply copy programs from 1 drive to another and expect them to WORK...

This is by design.

You could however hook up the drive as a slave drive in the new machine and retrieve your other important data...Welcome to CH, best forum in the galaxy.

You can get you r data and your settings.
But most programs have stuff that GOES into the WINDOWS directory .
And they have to be registered in the registry.
Therefore you have to install the programs again from the source.

There is a data ANS settings transfer wizard.
Here is a good article on this topic.
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/expert/crawford_november12.mspx

Notice that is does not transfer programs.

Hello, I am having trouble with my wife's Gateway model MT6705 laptop. I think it will be best to give you the details of what happened and what I've tried in order:

1. Original Gateway power adapter wires FRAY on the laptop side of the AC-DC BOX. A few sparks and a little smoke.
2. Unplugged malfunctioning power adapter immediately.
3. Computer works fine on battery power until it runs out.
4. I order a new "Hong Kong model" power adapter from eBay
5. Replacement adapter matches original in every way I can SEE (19V, 3.42A, positive on inside)
6. Adapter does not work. No blue light for power connection.
7. I don't have a voltmeter, but am certain the new adapter is producing at least some sort of voltage (I shorted the adapter end out with a thin piece filament of wire...dumb idea?)
8. I Get creative/dumb: try stuffing tiny ball of aluminum foil into new adapter hole (I had a feeling the post on the laptop side might not be making CONTACT in there). I try splicing the original adapter back together (white-to-white, black-to-black). Nothing works, power light remains unlit.
9. Order another replacement adapter from a different eBay supplier, this one in located in the good 'ol USA. This device lists its output as “19V = 2.64A/3.16A/3.42A/3.68A(0-3.68A)”
10. Same results from new replacement.

Any help WOULD be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Quote

4. I order a new "Hong Kong model" power adapter from eBay

Well im not sure what exactly is wrong... Ive narrowed it down to my processor and Motherboard but not really sure which is at fault.. Basically my computer keeps shutting down randomly... However, if I leave it alone with no programs running it wont shut down EVER... But the second I pull up say, internet explorer or anything really give it 5-10 minutes and power off... Ive check to make sure all my fans are working, ive checked to see if anything is overheating.. and well nothing.. The weird thing is tho.. that every once and awhile my USB ports wont work.. So thats why I havent ruled out my motherboard... Any help guys I really don't wanna waste my money taking it to someone to run tests..Download, and install SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
Post your computer temperatures:



Provide processor info (hold Windows logo key, and hit Pause/Break key to find out).yes get speed fan and post the results from that page Broni showed you, its most likely that your CPU HEATSINK isnt cooling down the processor enough. when the processor reaches a certain temparature it shuts the computer off to reduce damage done to the system, dont worry its a fairly simple and low cost repair if it is the heatsinkOk

Computer Info..
Pentium(R) Dual-Core CPU
E5200 @ 2.50GHz
2.50 GHz, 2.00 GB of Ram

Temps. Temp1: 44C
Temp2: 41C
Temp3: 23C
HD0: 27C
Temp1:40C
Core 0: 42C
Core 1: 42C
the temps seem to stay the same the entire time. even when running those programmes?Since your temps seem OKAY, and your USB ports intermittently CRAP out, then it's not unlikely that your motherboard could be the problem.

The next thing I would check before the motherboard, however, is your power supply. If your power supply is on the FRITZ or if it's just giving enough juice to run your computer and little else, then weird things like your USB ports malfunctioning can happen (especially if you're using a bus-powered device like some external hard drives). The moment something draws more power than your power supply can muster, your PC will shut down.

So if you have a spare power supply that's decent, try that out.I just purchased a new power supply thats 650 watts... But here is the weird thing, sense I downloaded speedfan... My computer hasnt shut off at all!... could it be possible that there was a error reading the temp of my cpu and thats what was shutting it down?Maybe the CPU fan isn't running when it's supposed to, or it's not attached properly, or it's full of dust, or needs reapplication of thermal paste.Well I did just put thremal grease on again.. but it shut down after I did that.. Other than that I havent touched anything im not sure why its working all of a sudden

I installed a kit that included the motherboard, ram and CPU (Intel core 2 duo). Now my computer won't even boot up. I looked through the manual for jumpers I may have missed, but can't find any. If anyone has an idea on why it won't boot up I would greatly appreciate it.when you turn on the pc are any fans turning on any lights?the fans COME on, to include the cpu FAN. there aren't any lights on the motherboard, but the hdd light comes on on the front.Start off by only using 1 stick of ram,video card or on board video hooked up,cpu, cpu fan,mouse & keyboard,only these.Turn on pc & do you get a display on monitor?so no hdd or any other device?started the computer the way you suggested, and still nothing. None of the perifial devices seem to be working on the motherboard. The USB and SATA I assumed could be because of BIOS settings, but he keyboard, mouse and monitor have confused me.Not entirely sure what Xavier is getting at but I think he just wants to see if you get anything on the monitor.

Try with the HD and then, if still no display, try without the HD.

Nothing except specified. (of COURSE keep the monitor plugged in )Oh hey, you posted before me.

Quote

None of the perifial devices seem to be working on the motherboard.

I don't understand, i've been looking at new cases for my pc and with some of the cases they say they have FRONT usb and audio sockets how could this be?

does the motherboard need not to have front usb for the case to have them?

HELP me out here, thanks.The front I/O CONNECTIONS will CONNECT to the motherboard.
USB will GO to a USB header, AC'97 to an AC'97 panel, HD Audio to the HD Audio connectors, etc.
Hope this helps.thanks fo that calum

I have a Dell Dimension 2400 and I recently bought a Intel Pentium 4 3.0GHz Socket 478 CPU to replace the original Intel Pentium 4 2.66GHz Socket 478.

I installed everything correctly but when I boot up the computer nothing comes up on my monitor but the computer turns on.

Anyone know what I can do to fix it?Try to reseat everything there. Any error beeps?Does the Dell support the upgrade?first of all you check RAM..
Heatsink mounted properly ? ?
Did you apply Thermal Compound ? ?
Was this machine working prior to this ? ?The cpu you installed might have a larger front side bus rating, meaning your board wont take it.Read you MB manuel to see. this is only a guessupdate motherboard firmware first (bios) updateQuote from: brad2020live on September 06, 2008, 10:37:30 AM

update motherboard firmware first (bios) update

Try to reseat everything there. Any error beeps?

Does the Dell support the upgrade?

first of all you check RAM..

Heatsink mounted properly ? ?
Did you apply Thermal Compound ? ?
Was this machine working prior to this ? ?

The cpu you installed might have a larger front side bus rating, meaning your board wont take it.Read you MB manuel to see. this is only a guess

Yes I mounted the heatsink properly but I didn't have any thermal compound left over to put on the new chip.

Try an out of case test, Use 1 stick of ram, cpu, heatsink,video connected to your monitor,keyboard & mouse, only these items.

EDIT: Unless I misunderstood - Did you put thermal paste on the bottom of the heatsink?

Quote from: drmsucks on September 06, 2008, 02:54:34 PM

EDIT: Unless I misunderstood - Did you put thermal paste on the bottom of the heatsink?

There was still some left over on the bottom of the heatsink from before.

1 of these MSI R4870X2-T2D2G-OC Radeon HD 4870 X2 2GB 512-bit (256-bit x 2) GDDR5 PCI EXPRESS 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported

or two of these crossfired POWERCOLOR AX3870X21GBD4PH Radeon HD 3870 X2 1GB 512-bit (256-bit x 2) GDDR4 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire

I got everything except the video card. Is this motherboard going to run it

MSI K9A2 Platinum AM2+/AM2 AMD 790FX ATX AMD Motherboard

And would you mind explaining why one setup is better
The 4870X2 is the better CHOICE - the performance will be a little LESS but there is more upgrade room.
However I must question your decision as to whether you need to spend that amount of MONEY.

The E: drive won't read any disc when you place them in. The hardware flashed for a few seconds, and then stops. The disc doesn't start running or anything. When you check the E drive, it says "Insert a disc" I thought it could have something to do with auto-play.

AutoFix [V5.2.3790.67]
Time [2008-09-05 16:09:16]
Microsoft Windows Version [5.1 (Service Pack 3) <2600>]

Test [The Shell Hardware Detection service is running.] - Instance [N/A]:
Result [AutoStart Setting]: OK
Result [The Shell Hardware Detection service is running.]: OK

Test [Policies] - Instance [E:\, Drive Type: 5]:
Result [HKCU\...\Policies!NoDrives]: OK {Absent}
Result [HKCU\...\Policies!NoDriveAutorun]: OK {Absent}
Result [HKCU\...\Policies!NoDriveTypeAutorun]: OK {Present}
Result [HKLM\...\Policies!NoDrives]: OK {Absent}
Result [HKLM\...\Policies!NoDriveAutorun]: OK {Absent}
Result [HKLM\...\Policies!NoDriveTypeAutorun]: OK {Present}
Result [Driver level policies]: OK {
HKLM\...\Services\cdrom!Autorun (Present)
HKLM\...\Services\cdrom\Parameters!Autorun (Absent)
HKLM\System\CCS\Enum\...!AlwaysEnable (Absent)
HKLM\System\CCS\Enum\...!AlwaysDisable (Absent) }

Test [Drive Notification] - Instance [E:\, Drive Type: 5]:
Result [Legacy Notification]: Problems
Result [AutoPlay V2 Notification]: Problems {
Service (Silent)
Shell (Deaf) }
>> Repair << [Legacy AutoPlay Event]
STEP: No steps to take.
Result: This AutoPlay setting cannot be FIXED. Either the device is malfunctioning, or the wizard cannot DETERMINE the problem.
>> Repair << [Autoplay V2 Event]
Step: No steps to take.
Result: This AutoPlay setting cannot be fixed. Either the device is malfunctioning, or the wizard cannot determine the problem.

>> Required action: The wizard found problems but cannot fix them -> None

Thanks for your time

Kevinwhat does it show in device manager?It seems normal

Under DVD/CD-ROM drives, it says

HL-DT-ST- DVDRRW GSA-H30L

It says
Dewvice is working properly.
It fails to update because I don't have a floppy and disc for it. Not that it would HELP..
Should I try uninstalling and then restarting my computer?
yes try uninstall & re install.No change, could there be anything wrong with the reader?Since the light is flickering that shows that there is power. I dont know how old the drive is but in any case i would try a laser lense cleaner disc.The hardware is a little over ONE year.

I tried some of my old disc and burned CD, surprisingly, one CD work (CoD). But, I'll try that laser lenses cleaning once I break open my computer.It reads CDs, not DVDs?You do not have to take the pc apart to use the laser lense cleaner[ its a cd disc]Quote from: xavier on September 06, 2008, 07:47:33 AM

You do not have to take the pc apart to use the laser lense cleaner[ its a cd disc]

The touchpad on my new laptop does not have separate buttons; the buttons are integrated into the touch surface. This DRIVES me batty when I'm trying to navigate with one finger and click with a thumb, and the cursor moves away, or fails to click, or clicks on the wrong thing. I don't want touch-sensitive buttons. I've tried covering them with electrical tape, but even two LAYERS of it has no effect. Is there any way I can insulate the lower portion of the touchpad, while keeping the rest of it active?what is the make/model of the laptop?
and who is the manufacturer of the touchpad?

most touchpad drivers have their own, pre-installed software that may let you customise the buttons, does that exist on the laptop?It's an Asus E203MA. It had Windows 10 S preinstalled, but I'm running Linux Mint Cinnamon instead. I think the touchpad is just Asus brand. I don't see any option in the settings to make the buttons non-touch-sensitive, and it seems unlikely such a software setting would exist, for the buttons are *physically* part of the touch surface; as opposed to my big Asus G75VX laptop with Synaptics touchpad, on which the buttons are physically separate from and adjacent to the touch surface. See pics. So I'm wondering if there's anything I could put over the bottom section of the touchpad so it won't pick up the touch of my fingers.ASUS call it Smart Gesture.
see here; https://www.asus.com/support/faq/1009613/

but I suspect your real issue is in getting an equivalent Linux driver.
I've used those sort of touchpads before and I thought it still had the left and right buttons 'separate' but underneath the same touch plate, in other words, the buttons still needed a physical 'click' to operate.
are you saying those ones on yours now do an action just from the heat of your skin if you get too close?
I have an ASUS X401A that has same touchpad setup. I am using a free tool that locks out the mouse from my wrist or hand accidentally brushing across it while I am typing on the keyboard. But this tool is only for Windows OS. Not sure if Linux has a tool like that available (or) if you could run this tool through WINE to use it in Linux. Forgot the name of it right now to share, but can share it later tonight when I get HOME and fire up my laptop to get its name to share with you.

My biggest issue was I'd be typing something important and the touch pad would think I moved my pointer and then as I am typing the pointer would select another area in the document that I am typing and then I have to stop and remove what I typed that got injected into an earlier portion of my document and then reread it to make sure its correct, then go back to the bottom of the document and start typing again for this to happen a few minutes later and then have to fix the mess again.

I too tried to mask the touch pad to avoid this, and for a while for anything important I was using a USB desktop computer keyboard connected to my laptop to avoid this frustrating mess. However the tool I installed on it solved the issue for me.

It works by watching keyboard activity and when the keyboard is in use it puts a lock on the mouse/touchpad so that it doesn't interfere. After about a second or two of no keyboard activity the mouse/touchpad then is active again. It will also show a small box in lower right when it stopped a touchpad/mouse event from happening which doesn't steal the focus while your typing but it tallies up how many times it saved you from your touchpad messing things up.Quote from: Mark. on August 11, 2018, 12:11:24 AM

but I suspect your real issue is in getting an equivalent Linux driver.

I've used those sort of touchpads before and I thought it still had the left and right buttons 'separate' but underneath the same touch plate, in other words, the buttons still needed a physical 'click' to operate.
are you saying those ones on yours now do an action just from the heat of your skin if you get too close?

My biggest issue was I'd be typing something important and the touch pad would think I moved my pointer and then as I am typing the pointer would select another area in the document that I am typing and then I have to stop and remove what I typed that got injected into an earlier portion of my document and then reread it to make sure its correct, then go back to the bottom of the document and start typing again for this to happen a few minutes later and then have to fix the mess again.

I too tried to mask the touch pad to avoid this, and for a while for anything important I was using a USB desktop computer keyboard connected to my laptop to avoid this frustrating mess. However the tool I installed on it solved the issue for me.

Switch to an external mouse...