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I have a Lenovo laptop that I bought barely an YEAR ago. Everything was fine until now, I was using it, doing regular stuff and then it just shut down all of a sudden. Now, every time when I press the power button, nothing shows up on the screen, but the light on the button turns on and off repeatedly and makes a clicking noise, then it STOPS at some point. I kept the laptop on CHARGE for every time I turned it on, if it means something. So what's the PROBLEM? What can I do to fix it?Is it still under warranty? If so, I'd CONTACT Lenovo for an exchange.By all means, warranty replacement. Hardware failure, probably boot sector on hard drive, or cpu dying, or memory dying, etc., etc.Does it have a removable battery? If yes, have you tried taking out the battery, plugging the laptop and then turning it on?

As with the problem, it might be with the graphics card. Use warranty (as already suggested by others)

Hi! I have a Dell Inspiron 15 7000 Gaming laptop. I've only had it for 2 months. The hard drive abruptly stopped working. "Hard drive not DETECTED." I kept getting the same message every time I booted the computer.

About 5 hours LATER I rebooted again and it started working. Can anyone please explain to me what's going on and if I need to replace my hard drive? Thanks!The HDD is not seated proper...remove battery...and all power and remove-reseat the drive...Since only 2 months old, should still be under WARRANTY (ASSUMING you purchased new) so don't mess with it, call Dell. If you start messing with it you might end up voiding your warranty.

IMO, Patio's suggestion WOULD be the route to take on an older, out of warranty machine.Nice catch strollin'...i missed that.

Hi, when I turn on my laptop, its restart after about 30 seconds Does it blue SCREEN if death or where is it at when it restarts on its own. A repair installation of the OS might be a solution if its always restarting at EXACTLY the same point in the boot process or operating process. If this hard drive came out of a different computer and your trying to get Windows from a different computer to work on this computer it can also behave like this with a boot loop after a measurable period of time that is consistent.

Other cause for a boot loop would be a damaged hard drive or other hardware failure such as hitting a bad memory address that causes the system to DUMP and restart.

Any history of this system as to what lead up to this behavior? Dropped or LIQUID spilled in it or something else that could have lead to this issue if the hard drive didn't come out of a different computer and installed into this one?Hi again, so thanks for helping.
I want change windows but in the boot the laptop after about 30 seconds restart again.
so in In each case the laptop after about 30 seconds the laptop is restarted .Hello ... I'd like to help you but thinking maybe English isn't your native language. If your native language is other than English please use google translator to type in your native language and then copy paste the English output here.

https://translate.google.com/

No information was shared in your last post in English that was BENEFICIAL to pinpointing the issue you have and questions unanswered from my last post should really be answered.

Hi everyone!

I have this weird problem going on for about a weeks and I just got time for it now, every-time I tried to paired my phone and bluetooth speaker on my computer it takes a lot of time to successfully paired (10 mins), it's ok for me as long as it paired but I'm just curious if it's the standard or not? Or it take that long because of my pc specs and my devices are old enough? I already remove and update my BT software but it still the same. Any body has an idea? Here's my PC specs and device.

1. asus rog strix z370-e (I'm using the antenna that has been provided by asus)
2. Intel i7-8700
3. NOTE 4
4. doss soundbox touchQuick answer.
No, that is not normal behavior.

I buy cheap junk all the time and find the junk junk SOMETIMES works as goo ad the pricey stuff. My cheap Bluetooth speaker will pair in about ten seconds.

The BANDWIDTH needed for audio is very low, that is why Bluetooth is the choice for short range audio applications. Lower bandwidth should mean more reliability.

Most likely you have a mechanical failure. Like a disconnected antenna.

A copy of the manual would help.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1319041/Asus-Rog-Strix-Z370-E-Gaming.htmlForgot to mention. There are some issues that can arise with that motherboard.
The OP needs to try again with some peripherals disconnected. A high performance do-it-yourself system has some potential issues with peripherals, liker printers, external drives,cameras and stuff Ike that. Rare, but easy to check.

Such Bluetooth issues have been documented by Apple. Yeah, he does not have an Apple, but the 2.4 GHz inference issues are not limited to make of of computer.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201542
Quote

Potential sources of Wi-Fi and Bluetooth interference
Learn how to minimize wireless interference that can cause slower performance or disconnection from your Wi-Fi network and Bluetooth devices.

Forgot to mention. There are some issues that can arise with that motherboard.
The OP needs to try again with some peripherals disconnected. A high performance do-it-yourself system has some potential issues with peripherals, liker printers, external drives,cameras and stuff Ike that. Rare, but easy to check.

Such Bluetooth issues have been documented by Apple. Yeah, he does not have an Apple, but the 2.4 GHz inference issues are not limited to make of of computer.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201542Not mentioned are wireless printers that have the potential to mess with Bluetooth.
I do hope this helps.

I suspect that somebody have attached stuff to my desktop computer.
Every time I turn on computer - somebody can use my rams-cpu remotely.
How these devices is called? How to find out if my motherboard have only default devices, no "extra" attached?I don't understand...how in fact do you know your CPU/RAM is being used by someone else ?Malicious actors have many ways to compromise one's computer, but the tried and true method is to first get physical access to the computer.

Do you have a reason to be suspicious of someone accessing your system? You don't have to give us specifics since we don't know what kind of situation you are in... but a few more DETAILS from you would be helpful.

In the meantime, physically inspect all external ports on your system, especially USB ports and memory card ports if you have them. If there's a USB drive you don't recognize, that's a very big problem. There also could be a wireless device on a USB port that sends and receives data. These devices can be extremely small and low-profile, designed not to stick out, so look carefully.

Malicious drive can also be place inside your computer, so trace each drive from all your SATA ports as well.You could also try to boot from a different CD/DVD, whether Windows or Linux, and see what the screen reports during boot. This solution gets very ADVANCED very rapidly, though.
HuHH ? ?Patio, is your "Huhh" in response to my suggestion?Yes...Booting from a known good OS removes the possibility of a virus problem, especially if it's a "live" Linux OS, but unsure if OP knows Linux or not. At least it will give him an idea of where to look for further diags. If the OP's problem is some funky hardware takeover, then all bets are off, and the OP will just have to remove all hardware and boot from the DVD anyway, then start adding stuff back piece by piece.

OP, can you check and see if you have "remote control/access" turned on or not?It might be DONE remotely by malicious files, trojans or other malware that appear like a common file in Task manager. You should scan your PC using anti-malware or alternative malware removal tool. It is less likely that someone plugged any infected drive on your computer In spite of all the suggestions, I'm still trying to figure out what the actual issue is.berzas,
Some questions.
• Do you leave you computer on all the time?
• Is it always connected to the Internet?
• Also, do you have a printer that is always on and can get to the Internet? **
• Do other PEOPLE go into to your house or office?

If any of the above are true, somebody could use your computer .

** A horrible security LEAK in some printers was reported awhile back.
Here is one variation of the story:
https://www.pcmag.com/news/355256/your-printer-can-steal-and-deface-your-documents
Quote

Add the ability to access the printer via USB, local network, or over the internet, and you have the recipe for a devastating attack. In fact, security researchers have warned for years that connected devices like printers, routers, and even VoIP phones could be used as beachheads for an attacker. The phone might not be very useful for an attacker, but perhaps they could use it to pivot to your secure network.

gpu- nvidia 1060
monitor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JLD4HZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got the monitor today. it does have the display port in and I ALSO made sure it was running at 144hz at the right resolution. I quickly figured out when i was running at 60hz at 100fps the screen TEARING in pubg was pretty bad so I changed the monitor settings to what it should be. When I played after fixing the issue i was getting bad stutters like those micro stutters but the fps remained around 100 so there wasnt any noticeable frame drops.
Im not using v-sync or any other sync.
Questions
1. does playing at a lower fps then the refresh rate on a monitor AFFECT gaming negatively.
2. if it does how do you fix it
3. does triple buffering cause micro stutters. (i wasnt using tripe buffering while in pubg games)
Try boosting your FPS and optimizing your GAME time by following . It was very helpful in my case.

Link Removed...stop spammin the Forum or a VACATION will be in order...

I keep getting a code 43 DEVICE descriptor request failed with this device once every few days to every couple weeks. My webcam software (be it Skype or the Camera app on Windows 10) will not recognize that the webcam is attached until I unplug the webcam from the USB port and reinsert.

Restarting the computer does not help. Uninstalling the driver in device manager when this happens does not help.

The only thing that helps is unplugging the webcam and reinserting (could be the same USB port or another; doesn't MATTER).

I have tried plugging the webcam into a USB hub, as well as directly into the computer USB 3.0 ports and USB 2.0 ports. The problem reappears...
The problem also persists after a complete reinstall of the Windows OS from scratch.

Do you guys believe this is a webcam hardware issue or something with my computer? How do I even test something LIKE this?

OS: Win 10 Pro 64 bit
CPU: Intel Core i5 4690
RAM: 16 GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Mobo: GIGABYTE H97-Gaming 3
Graphics: NVIDIA GTX 970Seems I've got a stumper!Maybe try it on another pc?
If that fails, then the webcam has probably gone bad, or it is defected. Code 43 is a hardware failure...get a new camThe cam is still under warranty so I am testing it on another PC to confirm if the problem remains (Logitech required this step). Do you think it is a hardware failure even if it occurs once every couple of weeks?Yes.FWIW - I swapped the camera with the same model on a family member's Windows computer. It has been >1 month with no issue on either of our computers. How strange! I guess we can close the topic

I had an issue awhile BACK where I was getting blue screened on Windows 10 and found out it was one of my ram sticks causing it. Well, that was after I reset my computer, but I chose to keep my files and DOCUMENTS. I have all my files when I go through file explorer and my storage says how much storage is being used CORRECTLY. However, when I click on Apps & Games, which has 1 TB of storage being used, none of those files are showing up that I had before the reset. They are still taking up space and I don't want to re-download the games again because it just adds to it. I also use Steam, Origin, and other game launchers that say the games are not installed. So, how do I FIX this issue? Thanks in advance to anyone who knows, because I can't seem to FIND an answer.

Hello I have a PC with an MSI R9 290 in it
Two wings from one of the two fans about two months ago and I used a software (MSI afterburner) to limit my fan speed so that it wont make a lot of noise and vibration but without letting the temps go too crazy as they usually are AROUND the 74-82C depending on the room temp.
Please note that I don't play that much anymore and my gaming sessions don't exceed 3 hours.
Yesterday I was PLAYING a game (fortnite) and I died so I got really mad and hit my desk, my computer IMMEDIATELY shut down and when I tried to start it after it just kept rebooting without anything SHOWING up on the screen, when I took my graphics card out, my PC works fine..
I OPENED the GPU and nothing looked fried and no smell or anything and when I put it back in my PC it still won't start but please note that the fans do spin.
I am willing to provide any pictures if needed.
Thank you all.

My computer makes the usual running NOISE from the fans. However, after some time (usually a couple of hours) the noise significantly increases.

I have been told that this is because it is heating up (no reason given) and the fan(s) has/have to work HARDER - thus increasing the noise level.

Is this correct? Are there any other REASONS for the increase in running noise level?
increased fan noise equates to higher RPMs which is due to increased heat.
so it's either increased work load on the components with fans (chassis, CPU, GPU, PSU) causing the extra heat or dust BUILD WITHIN the PC.
what's the airflow like around the unit?
when the fan noise increases, what process are you running - games, streaming, defrag...?I'd determone which fans are noisy and replace them...

I have a Windows 8 Pro 64 X UNIT, that I built for my SIDE business an started running into issues before I had put it up till I moved into the house I bought a few months back. It gives me a start up error an runs a check disk an auto repair. Usually, the repair will fail along with the start up repair; I thought that initially, I had restore points made but, it's not showing them. It's giving me startup repair couldn't repair this pc, press advance options an creates a log. I tried refresh your pc, fails an tells me that no changes were made. have you tried a clean INSTALL?The HDD is failing...to confirm this DLoad and run the Free diags from the HDD manuf. site...follow the guide to creat a boot media for the tests...This is a new DRIVE an hardly got used. I'm not WIPPING the drive when I have whatever, for files on it.So yer not gonna test it ? ?..testing does NOT wipe it.

It don't matter how new it is BTW...If I have the means really too, I wouldWhat means ? ?...it;s Free...pay attentionSquall. Won't listen, won't follow instructions. Locked

I have a HP C5180 printer that even though there is BLACK ink in it when printing pictures with black the black is green. is there a way to fix this?Is this a new problem
Find a good photo to verify all the colors.
Notice which colors are missing.
The symptom is most often DUE to a clogged print head. But it can happen if the ink cartridge has been in storage for a long time and is now very old. These can break down with time. The colors can change or or the ink may not flow well.
Is this the user guide?
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00737535
Have you read the use guide?

HP has a user forum.
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Inkjet-Printing/HP-Photosmart-C7280-Black-Ink-won-t-print/td-p/2157/page/17
The problem he has might be like your problem.
He explains that he had to dip the ink cart into some alcohol to release dried ink on the bottom part. Do this at your own risk. It can be very messy.

Personal recommendation: If this printer is over a year old, go buy one like it or almost like it. Some of these type of PRINTERS sell for under $100. I think you wail save time and money with a new printer. it just STARTED today. I had printed black and white PICTURE fine before

So I recently went to GoodWill and purchased two 160GB HDDs and one 250GB HDD. Now, I bought them in case I needed them for a computer, but I'm not using them right now and if I need one, I probably won't use all three, any IDEAS as to what I can use them for?I've found Hard Drives to be particularly well suited to storing data. You might use them for that. Haha yes I know, now I see how silly my question sounds, however, what I mean is, is there another use for them other than to just store files for myself on it?
Depending on the size, if you put self adhesive felt on top and bottom you can use them as coasters.You could RAID the two 160GB drives and have a fault tolerant storage area for 149GB I am guessing is what the 160GB's actually are. You could also short stroke one of them and use that short stroke partition for Virtual Memory space for Windows so that Windows isnt using the other drive in your system that may be fragmented for Paging. If you want to short stroke if you have say 4GB System RAM, then make a 8GB partition on the drive and point Windows to use this 8GB partition as the swap space for Virtual Memory, then make a partition for the rest of the space to store extra data there so if the 250GB drive is used which might be 237GB and you allocate 8GB to short stroking and then 229GB to extra storage space that can give you a PERFORMANCE benefit if your not running SSD's. If your running a SSD then the speed is all in the SSD.

I'd test the drives to make sure they are really healthy before using them as well to make sure your system WONT BSOD on the short stroked virtual memory space due to a sick drive. Crystaldiskinfo can be used to look at the SMART data and see if they are flagged as troubled or not.

For short stroking the smaller the partition the better the performance however you want it to be 1.5x minimum of your RAM capacity and I'd suggest 2x your RAM capacity which will allow Windows to manage and expand and contract in swap space as needed without reaching a 1.5x ceiling.

For short stroking to work though the say 250GB drive needed to be removed of all partitions. Create that short stroke partition first as say 8GB if your have 4GB RAM and then create a partition after that for extra data storage. If you do it in reverse order then its not as good of performance because of where the data is on the platters is optimal at the start of the drive just past the MBR.

Before SSD's came along I use to short stroke for faster virtual memory performance. These days I have SSDs and so I havent short stroked in about 8 years.

https://lifehacker.com/how-to-short-stroke-your-hard-drive-for-optimal-speed-1598306074

The best performance is the second hard drive being used primarily just as swap space for virtual memory. If you add data that is accessed on the larger partition on this second drive and make this drive then working as swap space for virtual memory as well as reading of data elsewhere on the drive then you take away from the performance gain optimization.
Quote from: BC_Programmer on August 22, 2018, 03:19:12 PM

I've found Hard Drives to be particularly well suited to storing data. You might use them for that.

those bad boys themselves open up a lot of playtime options.

another good use of old hardware is to give it to the kids and say "hey, pull this apart for me"

Hi,

I have a Dell Vostro 1700 that I restored and upgraded to Windows 10. All was good. I was happy. After reassembling the laptop, the keyboard doesn't work. So I stripped it down again and reassembled it, again. No change. The keyboard did work prior to the reassembly. So I bought another Dell Vostro 1700 for parts and USED that keyboard in place of mine. That didn't help either. I'm guessing the keyboard isn't the problem UNLESS both KEYBOARDS DIED. The error code states the touch pad isn't detected, but the touch pad does indeed work. I tried deleting the drivers for the keyboard and touch pad. Any suggestions where to go from here?
Thanks for all your help!!Broken Pin. Solved

Hi all,
First of all, I am a complete neanderthal with respect to computers (& not proud of it!) I have just STARTED a Uni degree, and am required to participate in group chats using Zoom (and MAYBE others in the future). I've also just bought a computer (Acer TC-780) after having a tablet. Anyway, I have bought speakers (Logitech Z120 - I'm on a student budget), but just realised that I also probably need a camera and microphone?! Given my tight budget, and the FACT that anything NEEDS to be pretty user-friendly for me, does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should look for? Any advice is greatly appreciated - I've not much IDEA what I'm doing (lol)

i think that's not the exact PLACE for it i mean in hardware
but mention all reasons why geeks love thinkpad apart of libreboot? ? ?Personally, I prefer the Trackpoint to the Touchpad. Also, I prefer my laptop to look like a laptop. The selection for laptops has largely STARTED shifting over to "Gaming" and FACT is I don't WANT a laptop that looks like it could be a failed DESIGN for the next Starship Enterprise.

There are some other "workstation" lines which are similar in their disregard for designing laptops like they are being built at Utopia Planetia, but the Thinkpad is the only one that has the Trackpoint.

I will be AWAY for the WEEKEND and WANTED to run Memtest since I normally can't do it for more than 12 hours straight. Is it OK to LEAVE Memtest running over 2 to 3 days, or can it DAMAGE the RAM?MeMtest doesn't damage RAM...

Hi,
i have a old HARD drive and could not check if it is working now. Can i remove the sata cable and power cable of cd drive and connect it test it as secondary storage device. Will it work? I am asking this because, if i connect by error, the entire system would get damaged. Does the TWO power connections carry equal power to test? I am having a hard drive at present and i want to check by connecting it as a storage drive.
My another concern is , if it also tries to boot, how to know, which drive is booting? The question on the face value would be like a dummy query. But i do not want to risk to try without knowing.experts pleaseYou can safely connect it as a second drive and the system will continue to boot from the primary drive.Hi, Thanks for the reply allan.
My concern was the power supply part. Because some device needs less and some more. I have already bricked a hdd fresh from store with incorrect power and could not even get the replacement.
So, do you say the cd drive power cable and hdd power cable are one and the same to connect. That is the concern. On receiving reply, i will check it as secondary drive in my pc.
I often use the CD cables to temporarily access other devices like old drives.all HDD's, SSD's and CD/DVD units power and SATA/IDE cables are interchangeable.
in your first post you mention "does the two power connections carry equal power..." - there should only be one cable for power and one cable for data.
perhaps ATTACHING a screenshot will eliminate any confusion.

Quote from: Mark. on September 06, 2018, 02:48:04 PM

I often use the CD cables to temporarily access other devices like old drives.all HDD's, SSD's and CD/DVD units power and SATA/IDE cables are interchangeable.
in your first post you mention "does the two power connections carry equal power..." - there should only be one cable for power and one cable for data.
perhaps attaching a screenshot will eliminate any confusion.

PC DOS 7.1 added support for Logical Block Addressing (LBA) and FAT32 partitions.[nb 1] Various builds from 1999 up to 2003 were not released in retail, but used in products such as the IBM ServerGuide Scripting Toolkit.[18

Hi, Thanks for the reply allan.
My concern was the power supply part. Because some device needs less and some more. I have already bricked a hdd fresh from store with incorrect power and could not even get the replacement.
So, do you say the cd drive power cable and hdd power cable are one and the same to connect. That is the concern. On receiving reply, i will check it as secondary drive in my pc.

Specs:
-Ryzen 7 1700x
-EVGA GTX 980ti
-Asus Strix x370-F
-G.skill trident Z 8GB 3200Mhz
-Samsung 960 Evo 256gb M.2
-Some random 2tb HDD for bulk
-Corsair AX860
-GPU and CPU being cooled in a custom water cooling loop with a single 240mm rad (I know its small for a full system.)
-Windows 10 Home Edition

So This is a pretty high end rig and it runs great, for the first 30 minutes to an hour when playing. If I am playing solo with no other applications running itll run fine, but when I play a game with discord and chrome running in the background for comms and music, after about 30-60 mins my performance has an extreme DROP. It goes from, for example, 250 FRAMES solid in rocket league to around 20 or 30 max. I have no idea what the issue could be, ide temps are around 30C and under load neither the cpu or gpu are never above 60C. When I benchmark on Userbenchmark NEARLY all parts say they are performing "way below expectations" I've tried overclocking all components, but nothing seems to help and I still have issues at stock settings.
Link to Benchmark- http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/5583239 This time everything decided to perform as expected.
Update, the issue is not happening regardless of how long I play or what apps I run, with NEW RAM installed
just to clarify, now you have replaced the RAM, it's all good?Quote from: Mark. on November 09, 2017, 03:16:35 PM

just to clarify, now you have replaced the RAM, it's all good?

Is the RAM on the ASUS QVL list ? ?

It's especially important with DDR4 RAM...

Is it on the list ? ?

You can find it at the ASUS site...

Yes...

You can't go by brand name...you need to cross-reference the Part #'s...

QVL means it's been lab tested by the Manuf. and approved.

Specs:
-Ryzen 7 1700x
-EVGA GTX 980ti
-Asus Strix x370-F
-G.skill trident Z 8GB 3200Mhz
-Samsung 960 Evo 256gb M.2
-Some random 2tb HDD for bulk
-Corsair AX860
-GPU and CPU being cooled in a custom water cooling loop with a single 240mm rad (I know its small for a full system.)
-Windows 10 Home Edition

So This is a pretty high end rig and it runs great, for the first 30 minutes to an hour when playing. If I am playing solo with no other applications running itll run fine, but when I play a game with discord and chrome running in the background for comms and music, after about 30-60 mins my performance has an extreme drop. It goes from, for example, 250 frames solid in rocket league to around 20 or 30 max. I have no idea what the issue could be, ide temps are around 30C and under load neither the cpu or gpu are never above 60C. When I benchmark on Userbenchmark nearly all parts say they are performing "way below expectations" I've tried overclocking all components, but nothing seems to help and I still have issues at stock settings.
Link to Benchmark- http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/5583239 This time everything decided to perform as expected.

First time posting - looking for some advice.

I was gaming on my PC, when the power went. When I checked it I realised that it had gotten very hot without me noticing - its a slimline case (mini ITX based) without case fans, and the COOLING vents had gotten covered up - it was burning hot to the touch.

I left it to cool down fully and tried powering it back up - nothing. No obvious activity from the system at all.

I tried another PSU, thinking that was probably the most likely culprit, but no dice. I've tested both the old and new PSUs by using the PAPERCLIP test and then checking the voltage on some of the pins. Both check out fine.

I'm assuming the next most likely culprit is the motherboard. If so then I'll obviously need to replace it, but its a tight case and stripping it out and refitting a new board is going to be quite a hassle, so I'm wondering if there are any other checks I should do first to confirm it more firmly before I go ahead.

As an added annoyance, when I was testing the PSUs and connected the new one up I did get a brief sign of life - the CPU fan fired up and I got a power light on the case, but SINCE then I've not been able to replicate it, despite trying both PSU, with different cables etc. I checked that the power button jumpers were properly connected to the board and all looked good.

Not sure what else to try - any ideas, or should I just bite the bullet and replace the mobo?

Thanks in advance for any ideas You sure all the power connectors were in place with the swapped PSU ? ?

Sometimes when frustrated we ignore the obvious...
Yes I reconnected the cables several times, trying combinations of PSU, motherboard power cable and mains cable - no change. I take the point that its very easy for something to fall off or become LOOSE, so methodical double checking is the order of the day :-)

I ended up replacing the motherboard and that did indeed resolve the issue. Slightly surprised that it didn't shut itself down rather than break due to overheating, but at LEAST its fixed now.Good news

Hi all,

I was hoping this screenshot will tell you what the problem could be.

I don't know if it is related, but just before that happened, I used this shortcut: Alt + R arrow.
Also, when I use Alt + L arrow in a web browser, instead of bringing me back to the previous page, it would lock my Ubuntu account. I reset all my keyboard shortcuts, and it would still do it.

Thanks guys!Remove all cards from the PCI Express slots except for video card does it still HAPPEN. If the only thing plugged into PCI Express is the video card then if you have integrated video as an option remove the video card and try running on integrated to see if problem goes away. Or if it lacks integrated video, try a different video card with all other PCI Express cards REMOVED to see if you can get to a healthy state.

*Note: I had a video card die once that acted like this due to the memory on the video card failing from overheating. My system would run fine until the card heated up and then CRASH BSOD and then reboot and then same blat about PCI Express DEVICE address failure. Swapped out the video card and all was better.

Other POSSIBILITY could be the power supply making video card malfunction if not rated high enough or its weak which could have enough power to boot and run and crash and complain. However most power supply issues are a black screen with fans running or system completely dead.

Welp, I FINALLY managed to fix it even the reinstall didn't work. So I downloaded some sort of driver updater tool and when I plugged the dongle and clicked on UPDATE driver in the program (I think? I can't remember exactly what I did) it finally recognized it as a GENERIC bluetooth radio. I can't TRACE BACK to which program I used exactly but it's SIMILAR to these: https://www.lifewire.com/free-driver-updater-tools-2619206.

It's a bit late for that Geek...did you see the HDD ? ?Patio, I conjure the HDD can not be recovered using any sensible method.

He did not say how much time and money he wants to spend on the issue. If there is no limit, he could spend the rest of his life and all of his resources trying to find out what was on that drive.

But before doing that, he could pay about $300 to have Se agate Technology read whatever data can be found on the platter.
Here is a link that outlines some of the things they can do.
https://www.seagate.com/tech-insights/data-loss-and-recovery-solutions-master-ti/
That page has links to other pages that relate to data recovery .
One is a YouTube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5Y7BniaRXg
I suggest he watch the video.
It is up to the OP if he wants to go all the way with this. It's not even his drive. That kind of annoys me, frankly.

Somebody asked him "Can you get the data off my drive for me" presumably because that data is *important* to them, And instead of saying "I don't think I'm qualified" He apparently answered in the affirmative- and then turns around and shows up here treating what could very well be critical data to this other person as if it was a learning experience solely for his benefit.

If you want to learn about how to recover data, maybe risk your own drives and your own data, don't basically tell or imply to somebody that you are up to the task and use it as a "learning experience" at their expense.hello, have a grate day to all of you..

first of all, i have been subjected as cross PLATFORM posting, since I am new to forums please apologise me,
I sincerely thankful for your time and effort.
further, i am continuing this FORUM threat to further discussion and i already informed other forums & linked to here.

to INTRODUCE me, in graduated in IT 2015, currently 1 year exprced laravel/vuejs developer working in a agency. whenever i have no PROJECT my boss assign me on other IT stuffs, like that this time this HDD.

Apart to that still i have kind of dilemma what to grab from IT and make it my career. so i try whatever come to me.

anyway,

@Mark
refer to you last post, some of other said do not initialise/format.. and try to work it done/find recover solution, hence i am still not initialised i wonder this can be initialise successfully or not? further i guess (i dont know) generally HW Technicians having unique testing tools/methods which should be done before conclude. and physical damage is done by a technician when removing drive from case, so less changes of severe damage. also power on start up sound is also normal, finally for recovering, suppose files not corrupted its worth to try

@patio sorry from here too, no problem

@Geek-9pm
right now worth is my [emailprotected] and personal knowledge, i requested ysday form owner, not yet response
i believe if i have required tools and your all concluded idea i can done this my self, is it wrong ?

@BC_Programmer what i'm doing highly necessary to my situation please help me do explore further process

Thank you all will c and update.
Looking at the images you posted it appears more likely someone has been really rough taking the disk drive out of the case and removing the metal shield.
You could try removing the circuit board and cleaning the head contacts which are the J1 connector on the underside of the board. Be very careful not to static damage the board. A cotton bud with IPA should be all you need, the contacts should be silver with no brown oxidization.

Hello,

I have a project that needs multiple display as the image shown below:



Please ignore the "layer 2 boxes" it is just a representation of video splitter. So basically I have 4 physical monitors and 2 projectors.


I want to make 4 multiple extended display as explained below:

D1, D2, D3 and D4 (2x projectors) are set as extended displays

Those 2 D3 monitors will act as duplicate display for D3

and ANOTHER 2 D4 projectors will act as duplicate display for D4

================================

My question is, what kind of video splitters should I use for this setup. The image above is just an example of the setup and if you guys have better IDEA, everyone is welcome for any suggestions.

Thanks!You can't really get cheap splitters that do extended display except for some pretty expensive specialised ones such as the Matrox DualHead2Go. You would therefore ideally want to fit a graphics card into the machine that can support 4 displays. Beyond that you would just need regular splitters for the duplicate displays. Also worth considering if you need to use VGA for the stage displays and projectors as you'd likely be better off going with a digital interface such as HDMI/DisplayPort/DVI as this will be a lot easier to worth with as you won't run into issues such as the signal quality being degraded when using long cables.Thank you Camerongray for your response.

Matrox DualHead2Go is actually a good idea but using Matrox DualHead2Go will act as ultra wide screen to the computer and not as 2 different display? In which it won't work for my plan for stage displays and projectors because I will assign D3 display for stage displays and D4 for projector and yes, it is expensive and almost the same price with NVIDIA GTX 1080.

I might consider your suggestion to upgrade my Video Card with multiple display outputs. If I buy a video card with 4 output, I can connect D1, D2, D3 (duplicate), D4 (duplicate) to each video ports to make it 4 extended displays and for D3 and D4 I will run a long cable and put 2 splitters for each cables to make both duplicate displays (Stage and Projector screens). Do you think that will work?A graphics card with support for 4 displays would definitely do what you need, just connect splitters to it for the duplicated displays. All you'd need to make sure is that the card can actually do 4 displays as not all cards can make use of all of their outputs simultaneously. This should be fairly easy to find out from the spec sheet of the card.

Just make sure to take care with cable lengths as you may end up using cables that are too long to work reliably. In this case you can get powered signal repeaters which would likely help or alternatively you can get HDMI over CAT6 systems which can be used to run hdmi over CAT6 network cable at pretty reasonable distances. I'd also make sure that you use powered splitters rather than passive ones.Sorry for the late response. I just returned home from vacation. BTW, I made a research on what video card should I use and I've found this one:

https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=08g-p4-6286-kr

Just wanna know if that video card will work or is it overkill?

I also noticed that the video card I've shown above has 4 graphic ports (1-HDMI and 3 DisplayPort) and the projectors that we are using have HDMI but not DisplayPort. If I will get hdmi over cat6 systems, I will use a DP to HDMI adapter to make it work? I am not sure if it will affect the performance of the HDMI/Cat6 systems?

Also, for the powered signal repeaters, this is different from HDMI over Cat6 right? Not sure what I have to search for Powered signal repeaters. sorry for being naive on this one. I've found lots in Amazon for HDMI Extender but these 2 caught my attention:

AGPtEK 4K HDMI Extender 230ft/70m Transmission Supports 4Kx2K, 3D,1080P over Single CAT5E/CAT6/CAT7 Cable with Bi-directional IR Remote

https://www.amazon.ca/AGPtEK-Extender-Transmission-Supports-Bi-directional/dp/B01K9Y3VA2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1532725796&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=hdmi+over+cat6&refinements=p_72%3A11192170011%2Cp_85%3A5690392011&psc=1

----- and ------

AGPtEK 394ft/120m 1080p Real-time HDMI Extender over CAT5/5E/6 Cable with IR Remote Control,Support EDID

https://www.amazon.ca/AGPtEK-Extender-Transmission-Supports-Bi-directional/dp/B07B94F8LC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1532725796&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=hdmi%2Bover%2Bcat6&refinements=p_72%3A11192170011%2Cp_85%3A5690392011&th=1

can I buy any of those?That card would work but is ridiculously overkill if you are just looking to output to a bunch of displays unless you are also planning on running intensive games or doing work such as GPU accelerated video rendering. If you can't find a single card that supports all 4 outputs and don't really need any GPU grunt beyond just having a decent number of MONITOR outputs, you may be better off getting a pair of cheap cards and using them at the same time. For the professional market, NVIDIA make the Quadro NVS cards and AMD make the Firepro models which are designed for uses cases like this where a powerful GPU isn't required but having lots of outputs and good overall stability and reliability is, however, these can be quite expensive so multiple cheap "gaming" cards could quite likely work out cheaper.

Those HDMI extenders look like they would do the job fine, I've previously used cheaper ones from AGPtek (although they were only rated up to 60m and I was only using them with a 17m cable) and they worked fine. You shouldn't really need any sort of signal repeaters if you are using the CAT6 system since they can take the signal over much longer distances than a regular HDMI cable (those can be rated at up to 120m, I've found standard HDMI cables can start to struggle around 10m). No real issues with converting DP to HDMI, you'll very likely have to do this as most cards tend to have more DP outputs than they have HDMI.Quote

That card would work but is ridiculously overkill if you are just looking to output to a bunch of displays unless you are also planning on running intensive games or doing work such as GPU accelerated video rendering. If you can't find a single card that supports all 4 outputs and don't really need any GPU grunt beyond just having a decent number of monitor outputs, you may be better off getting a pair of cheap cards and using them at the same time. For the professional market, NVIDIA make the Quadro NVS cards and AMD make the Firepro models which are designed for uses cases like this where a powerful GPU isn't required but having lots of outputs and good overall stability and reliability is, however, these can be quite expensive so multiple cheap "gaming" cards could quite likely work out cheaper.

• Operating System: Windows 7 - 10 64-bit
• CPU: 2.5 - 3.4 GHz Intel i5 or i7 Quad Core
• Memory: 8 GB RAM
• Hard Drive: SSD or 7200 RPM HDD
• Graphics Hardware: NVIDIA GeForce GTX

• 650-680
• 750-780
• 950-980
• 1050-1080

• MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X 6G ==>> https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX63127
• EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SuperClocked 6GB ==>> https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX63115
• EVGA GTX 1060 ==>> https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX63114

Those HDMI extenders look like they would do the job fine, I've previously used cheaper ones from AGPtek (although they were only rated up to 60m and I was only using them with a 17m cable) and they worked fine. You shouldn't really need any sort of signal repeaters if you are using the CAT6 system since they can take the signal over much longer distances than a regular HDMI cable (those can be rated at up to 120m, I've found standard HDMI cables can start to struggle around 10m). No real issues with converting DP to HDMI, you'll very likely have to do this as most cards tend to have more DP outputs than they have HDMI.

You just have to verify WHICH 4 monitors the card supports and verify that your monitor inputs are the same.

Just make sure to take care with cable lengths as you may end up using cables that are too long to work reliably. In this case you can get powered signal repeaters which would likely help or alternatively you can get HDMI over CAT6 systems which can be used to run hdmi over CAT6 network cable at pretty reasonable distances. I'd also make sure that you use powered splitters rather than passive ones.

Hi all,

I have a HD 1 Tb drive, with 3 partitions:
1. 500 Mb with the BOOT files.
2. 200 Gb with Linux Mint / latest Cinnamon (EXT4)
3. 750 Gb with Windows 10

I first installed LM with rEFInd (a boot manager loader), then I installed Win10.
Before I installed Win10 it kept showing me this messages over and over:

CODE: [Select][ 1223344578] ata4: SError: { CommWake DevExch }
[1223344578] ata4: Exception Emask 0x10 SAct 0x0 SErr 0x4040000 action 0xe frozen
[1223344578] ata4: irq_stat 0x00009338, connection status changed
And now that Win10 is installed it won't really succeed loading it. It stalls with that dots animation.
Maybe the photo of the codes will tell you something.
Someone here was saying that since he was getting the same messages EXACTLY after loading the DVD drive, that would suggest that the problem was the DVD drive. So I'll try removing it.
What do you guys think?

ThanksI think if you wanna dual-boot you should have seperate HDD;s...just my opinion.

The ATA error i have SEEN cause Win wasn't onstalled 1st...go figureI had been suspecting that actually!

Thanks for sharing patio I agree with Patio.
Here is what I have done. I gave UPON doing Dual-boot with Windows and GRUB. It can be done, but it is just too hard.

Instead, I put versions of Linux on small laptop drives that can get power from the USB port. Linux has not issue with booting from a USB device. I disable my main drive before doing a Linux install on a laptop drive using USB. GRUB never sees my main drive, so it leaves it alone. (This is only done once.)

After that, I let my BIOS see the main drive again. From that time on, if I want a Linux OS, I select USB device in the BIOS and it boots up Linux. No problem. No errors.

The advantage ist hat you do no ha ve to study GRUB to make it work. My Windows boot loader supports Windows XP,Windows 7 and Windows 10. Whenever I want Linux, I just have to hit F12 early in the POST and a BIOS menu comes up and asks meto selet a boot device. I can select the HDD, the opticaldrive or whaever USB device. Somehow the BIOS knows if the USB device is bootable.

SoI have completely forgotton whateverI knew about GRUB and do not regret it.
That is so good Geek-9pm !!
What I had in mind was to reinstall the OSs, each on a separate drive (as suggested), but like your idea only having one drive plugged at a time while installing the OS. That way Grub would not be an issue. Then in the end once both OSs are installed, bring a Boot Manager Loader, like rEFInd.
If that doesn't work I'll have to have a closer look at your system.

Of course I'll do all that only if those "ata4: SError" error message won't keep hunting me.

Thanks a bunch guys!Give it a try.
The boot manage I tried could not do it right.
There are few boot managers that do well with Linux and Windows.
Look at this:
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/insider/forum/insider_wintp-insider_install/issues-dual-booting-windows-10-with-linux/4c09280f-1bd8-4d12-8ce0-4e8d824a02ce

Notice they did not even try to answer the question.
Next read this:
https://www.tenforums.com/installation-upgrade/109769-macrium-reflect-1803-update.html
That is a very recent post. Notice the 1803 Windows 10 presents a problem for dual-boot with Linux.
I depend on Maxcrium Reflect for backup and disk cloning. Have a non-windows system in the boot menu creates serious problem. So I gave up trying to have Macrium Reflect rebuild the boot loader, even tho that is one of its great features.
So I don't even try to include Linux in the Windows boot loader, although MR might do it sometimes. But no tall the time.

Now you can see why I let the BIOS do it.

I have this EXTERNAL (USB-connecting) BD/DVD-RW/CD-RW drive.

When I plug it in and insert a disc, my PC makes the "connecting device" sound and it starts to spin up, then the "disconnecting device" sound, and then the "connecting sound" and then the connecting sound and then the connecting sound and then the connecting sound and then sometimes the disconnecting, and so on.

The drive shows in Windows Explorer. It will show in iTunes, but I can't rip from it (if I start, the PC starts making the disconnecting sound over and over). The disc does NOT show up in Media Monkey - although it shows there is a disc drive connected.

I have used this drive for years, and I first noticed this issue last Friday. When I reboot, it behaves fine - for a while. At first I thought maybe plugging in other devices (iPods, other drives) may be screwing it up, but today I rebooted, ripped a disc, left my desk for a but (I went for a haircut, if you must know) and now tried ripping another disc, and the issue started again.

I've tried updating drivers, but they can't seem to be found on that internet.

Any suggestions, other than regularly rebooting?

ThanksYou said:
Quote

I have used this drive for years, and I first noticed this issue last Friday.

Hi I am running Windows 10 on P8Z77_v pro motherboard with i5 3570 3.4 Hz CPU, Geforce GTX 950 DDR5 video card, sound BLASTER Audigy Fx sound card, Realtek PCI GbE Family Controller network card with 2 stick of DDR3 2GB 667MHz and 1 stick of DDR3 4GB 800MHz ram
My problem started with my sound, with headphones, when I turn the sound up to around 48% it WOULD get distorted so I got the sound blaster sound card. Now when I play world of tanks or play Sounds preview from Sound blaster CONTROL panel my sound cuts out until I run sound troubleshoot and it says, "Turning off audio enhancements may fix it", so I have, it then says that "the audio format not set as default and it has fix this problem", I also updated drivers to the latest, turning off power save and none of these have WORKED, I am not sure how to stop this happening. I also have had my internet drop out and reconnect I am using cat6 cable. Any help would be very welcome

What is the r requirement for a student computer?

Some higher education places have very specific rules. They favor Windows-based laptops running MS Office. But the Apple Mac book might also work.

Examples:

University of Denver.

Oregon State.

University of Toledo.

What about where you live?
In my school district, everyone is given free rights to tech and all students are given computers free of charge. (Not to keep of course. )

I don't know when it started but until two school years ago everyone used 4th generation iPads. The school liked it because they were cheap and less complicated for the students. However, they were lacking in the ability to supervise what the students were doing on the devices and the versatility of the devices. So everyone got 2016 11" MacBook Airs. The students loved it but it came with the cost of installing the Sophos Web-Proxy and LanSchool. I enjoy it in school, as Microsoft has very good tools to sync data with Mac and my school doesn't prohibit downloading games or other software, as long as it is not illegal, a vpn, or it's a game and you use it during school hours. It comes installed with Sophos anti-virus but people still manage to install viruses. They come to me all the time looking for help on how to un-install a virus because they don't want to get introuble, and I ended up being the tech genie of the school, and the tech admin of the school generally is very lenient with me with my downloads because they know I use it for the good.

We don't have any regulations on text editors. We mainly stick to things like Google drive because we invested a lot into google's services as we have unlimited storage on their servers. It makes it very easy to share and collab with other students and teachers. I stick to good old office though. The teachers all have it installed on their Mac's. I find it more feature-rich than docs.

They have a couple of windows desktops and laptops scattered through the school for people who don't use a laptop from school, or are prohibited from using one for one reason or another. They aren't remotely monitored, but keep well documented log files of who used it LAST, because in order to sign in, you need to use your own school account. (The sophos web-proxy login)

As for the requirements, it largely is based on the school requirements and their level of strictness. We don't have very many people in my school so it's pretty lenient.

If you are looking at college, then I would say that it is all up to you, and having to be as versatile as possible. If you only have a windows computer and they want a Mac, there are ways to be compatible, but it is much harder. But if you are on a Mac and they want windows, then all the software is there for you to use. Office, OneDrive, etc. If you needed to buy one for someone, thenit pains me to say it would be the best to buy a MacBook air.

Oh Well.
Anthony
When I was at university there was no real requirements from them as to what sort of equipment students required. Any requirements were buried on old webpages and were horrifically outdated (e.g. stating that WiFi was required as though it's something special).

Most required stuff like online learning environments, portals and coursework submission systems were web based so were completely cross PLATFORM. Then there was the main university and informatics specific computers which had everything required to do the course.

There was a large mix of platforms in use, throughout the uni there was a fairly even split between Mac and Windows then within the Informatics department Mac and Linux were by far the most popular platforms as the work we were doing, while technically cross platform, worked much better on UNIX-like systems.

There was no real requirement for MS office (at least in my department) as all documents were given to us or submitted by us as PDFs. Most of the serious work from us (including our dissertations) were generally built using LaTeX. We did however get access to MS Office through Office 365 however this works under both Mac and Windows so no requirement for Windows there.

The main thing I'd always say for people buying machines for University is to get something decent quality while considering portability. When people start out they tend to rush out and either buy some sort of ridiculously powerful laptop that weighs a tonne or get something cheap which falls apart. Later on people tended to move to either more "premium" consumer ultrabooks, business grade machines or to Macs. In a university environment, a machine is going to get carried around all day every day and be used heavily. It needs to be able to survive long periods of heavy use and a fair bit of abuse from being carried around all day in a bag which (at least in my experience) often ended up crushed in piles of bags in pubs/clubs when going out after lectures. It also needs to withstand things like liquid spills when a bottle of water inevitably decides to explode in your bag! The machine also needs to be reasonably portable so that is is comfortable to carry and can be used in tight environments like lecture theatres. You'd also want it to have good battery life - don't be that guy passing a cable across a lecture so you can plug your laptop into one of the very few SOCKETS in the theatre!

As I've mentioned in other threads, my advice would always be that if you want a PC - get something from one of the business lines (Lenovo ThinkPad, Dell Latitude.etc) that's reasonably thin with good battery life and solid state storage. If you'd prefer a Mac, pretty much any of the recent models would fit the bill. For people who need a lot of power for things like gaming I'd strongly advise to get a separate machine for that then pick up a cheap refurbished business machine for carrying around.

Personally when I was in uni I started off with a MacBook Pro before moving to a Lenovo ThinkPad x201 which was later replaced with an x220 followed by an x230 with me ultimately settling on a t440s for the final 2 years of my degree (all of the ThinkPads running Linux). All of these machines were absolutely perfect for the job. I rarely used the lab machines and instead was able to do pretty much all my work on my laptop, usually plugging it into the monitors on the lab machines to get myself some extra screen space.Quote from: camerongray on November 23, 2018, 07:05:09 PM

carried around all day in a bag which (at least in my experience) often ended up crushed in piles of bags in pubs/clubs when going out after lectures.

System requirements (GTA Vice City)

800 Mhz Intel Pentium III or 800 Mhz AMD Athlon or 1,2 Ghz Intel Celeron or 1,2 Ghz AMD Duron processor.
128 MB of RAM.
32 MB video card with DirectX 9.0 compatible drivers ("GeForce" or better)
8X speed CD/DVD drive.
Sound Card with DirectX 9.0 compatible drivers.

Besturingssysteem
WINDOWS 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
Processor
Intel Core 2 QUAD Q9300 @ 2.50GHz54 °C
Yorkfield 45nm Technologie
RAM
4,00GB Single-Kanaal DDR2 @ 333MHz (5-4-4-14)
Moederbord
Packard Bell BV APL00 (SOCKET 775)40 °C
Grafisch
MD7212AZ ([emailprotected])
128MBNVIDIA GeForce 6600 GT (ASUStek Computer Inc)58 °CBudget ? ?

And what make/model PSU do you have ? ?

MORNING. i am looking to upgrade my pc. the one i have now is a 4+ years old. but the case is GOOD it is AMD micro atx.
so i think i can use that the parts i want to use are.

cpu-ryzen 3 2200.
power supply corsair 550w-vs series
memory( ram) i haven't' GOT a clue.what speed i need ,i thought 2400 but there are so many.
motherboards 350 . asrock- gigabyte-asus -MSI can you PLEASE pick one for me. i am baffled.
this is a budget build. i dont do any gaming. or downloading films/music.
if you can help in any way i would be grateful.

It seems you use your computer in the same way i do.
I'm not sure I understand what parts you want to replace.
If it is the motherboard, and you are not sure of what brand to CHOOSE, I can say I have had a very good experience with Asus.
Hope this helps.

Hi!

I did very wrong thing:

I was inserting into other PC new harddisk and one from which I wanted to import data.
I did both at once and PC was running on live DVD... so I entered Disk Management.

Both disks looking no partitioned and unused.
I was prompted to init disk - I meant it's the new one - so did it... and problem was created - it was disk from which I had to import data...

I trashed all data (2TB near full) by simple iniitialization.

Can anybody help me how to undo init or RECOVER data on disk?
Help is in price of GOLD...
Problem is that I'm not rich.

Thank you all for each word, each letter...

MiroPersonally I'd try using TestDisk from here to attempt to recover the partition table: https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk. The PhotoRec software as part of the same suite is also useful to try to recover individual files if you can't get the partitions BACK. Before you do anything, take a full image backup of the entire drive - It's currently in the best possible state from a recovery perspective and you don't want to end up completely trashing it while attempting to recover data without having a backup. The only experience of this software I have is under Linux however it does claim to support other OSs as well.Ok, Thank you very much!

I disconnect drive until I buy one for diskimage 'cause it's 2TB HDD and I want to AVOID disk image data loss by disabling compression so it will need at least new 2TB HDD.
Then will report.

Thankful,
MiroSo, report:

I used many tools.
Your recommended helped me not.
Now I have all the data back and missing are only two folders, very important folders.
I used Diskinternals Partition Recovery Trial.

Miro

I'm almost SURE that a long TIME ago I SOMEWHERE read that these devices can harbor spyware and MALWARE in their memories.
Did I dream it? or is that so?
Thank you for your time.

Short answer: No, not now. Maybe never.
Quote:
Apple was one of the first to ship a Bluetooth 5 compatible phone (along with Samsung in the Galaxy S8). But the devices you connect to have to USE Bluetooth 5 compatible hardware as well. That means Bluetooth 5 headphones, smart home devices, speakers, mice, keyboards...whatever.Mar 14, 2018
Source:
Bluetooth 5 FAQ: Everything you need to know
However, the' whatever' does not include TV streaming. Audio requires much less bandwidth than Video. You need to something ELSE to tie your TV SETS to your hoe video collection.
Still, the new Bluetooth standard has some good things for people who work with audio. You can have one Bluetooth device stream two SEPARATE audio feeds to speakers in your house or OFFICE. Hip-Hopi n the living room, Mozart in the bedroom.

PC is unable to start right after electric switch is on. Boot process is started, but it stops. When I left it for 4-5 minutes and try it again, after push power button, it works properly. I can start it again more times, if I left electric switch on.Yes. That is a valid observation and typical of desktop computers.
The makers of such machines say you should leave it on all the time and only use the operating system to shut down the computer.

Did you have a QUESTION? Geek, you answered a different question from the one asked. OP is asking about starting computer. kovacsa, do you live in a place with unstable power? POSSIBLY voltage takes some time to stabilise after switch on, especially if you have big loads starting such as refrigerators, air conditioning etc.After reading his post again, I get the same idea it got the first time.
He turns off the power from a external switch of the electrical main.. hen he turns the switch back on, , the computer will not start until he waits a bit and then hits the push button.

In some computers there is a BIOS setting to change the behavior for power loss. But the computer makers do not recommend the user use an external switch to turn the computer off and on.

Please explain it to me again. What did he do?I always shut down the PC using the 'shutdown' option in the Start menu, then after that when it has all gone quiet I may well disconnect the AC cord from the wall outlet (in Britain they have a switch). I am supposed to do this when leaving the house for more than 14 days (it's in the fire insurance).

If the OP was shutting down just by removing the AC power, then all kinds of bad things can happen, including file system corruption and maybe hard drive damage.
To be more specific: I use shutdown option, after that when it is successful, I remove AC cord from wall outlet. A few hours ago I put AC cord back and press power button on computer. Boot process is started, but it stops, computer shutdown automatically. If I wait a few minutes after I put AC cord back, it works perfectly. Power seems stable, there are another PCs in house and are working correctly.OK, you need to check the CMOS battery to see if it has lost settings.
Your PC may have nighttime, but some settings may have been lost if the battery is weak. This is often a small coin-size cell with number 3002 and should be 3 volts.

There is a setting about how the PC responds if there is an apparent lose of power. The wrong setting may cause the odd behavior.

When the PC is off it still monitors the AC power. I have a PC also has behavior when I turn the power strip back on. Like you, I shutdown the PC the normal way and then turn off he power strip. I just pit up with it. I use the default settings.
Cé La Vi It has cell button 2032. But how comes it? Could this BEHAVIOUR caused by this battery? Why is it working correctly after a short period of WAITING time?Quote from: kovacsa on September 14, 2018, 01:33:35 AM

It has cell button 2032. But how comes it? Could this behaviour caused by this battery? Why is it working correctly after a short period of waiting time?

It has cell button 2032. But how comes it? Could this behaviour caused by this battery? Why is it working correctly after a short period of waiting time?

Can a dynamic disk prevent software installing properly?

I have a laptop and a Desktop PC both with W10. The software installed PERFECTLY on the laptop but dropped out on the PC right before it would have displayed the Installation Complete box.

The software is downloaded from the provider's website. I have tried disabling the AV (McAfee) but it makes no difference. It has also installed successfully on a notebook running W8.1.

The only difference in the configuration is that the Desktop System drive is on a Dynamic disk whereas it is on a Basic disk on the laptop.

I'd prefer not to have to go back to a clean implementation of Windows. I have looked at software that will convert a dynamic disk to basic but the feedback does inspire much confidence.

THANKS for any HELP.From a Google search:
Quote

Converting basic disks to dynamic disks can help achieve improved performance in your Windows OS. However, there are compatibility restrictions you should be aware of before diving into this conversion process.

Hi!

I own old notebook and tried to use 44pin cable extension to access HDD outside notebook or simple CF to IDE adapter to exchange CF cards outside notebook.
It works not, really don't understand but maybe it is timing problem.

So, is by any way possible to use two HDDs in laptop? 2,5" HDDs for laptops have also master/slave switch, but it is maybe only for use in computers by adapter to mount it to standard IDE 3,5" connector.

Why I need to use two harddisks - I need simple DOSWIN partition table and else one partition table which is not compatible to run target OS and are not interchangeable.
Or even is possible override it / use two partition tables on single disk?

Thank you for all suggestions and HELP.
MiroCan you tell me the MODEL of that notebook? That may help. Since you said it is older, I don't think you would be able to use a laptop CD drive bay adapter to SATA hard drive. There is an adapter for that but, like I said, I don't know the model of your notebook so I am guessing at the moment.Notebook is Compaq Evo Notebook N1000v.

Laptop CD drive bay for SATA HDD - maybe don't understand correctly, but is enough SATA to IDE adapter? This I own and can use.
Also, in notebook BIOS is DVD drive called Notebook Multibay - I know only name, but it matches name of adapter you mentioned.

Replacing DVD by disk is great solution, if, is possible to buy adapter.

Thank you.
Let me know all new.
MiroI forgot - SATA to IDE adapter is two way SATA2IDE and IDE2SATA.

MiroTry that then...it'll be slow...plus you cannot run Win off of it...Ok, notebook is slow like is, so this is not problem.

Q is: What and why I'll can and cannot?
Notebook boots from CD normally, even live Windows.
If cannot run Windows, it is enough for DOS if it is that problem of speed.
I'm using it with DOS, with Windows 3.11 and Windows XP.
Want to use also Linux and OSX86 10.4.
I think that Windows, Linux and OSX86 can use Mac partition table, only DOS not.
Or is it not TRUE?

Miro
I am officially confused now on what you want to accomplish

Start over...Quote from: patio on November 18, 2018, 05:45:11 PM

I am officially confused now on what you want to accomplish
Start over...

Cinema ModeOff
Windows 95 on Linux on a Mac - Krazy Ken's Tech Misadventures
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i have a AMD-a8-6600k apu with 1333 mhz ram. to upgrade my system how much more RAM can i put in.
or 8gb of better RAM.What is motherboard MAKE and model? Sorry i should have said. its' a ASROCK FM-2A58MMaximum RAM appears to be 32 GB. Check manufacturer's RAM compatibility list for SUITABLE RAM products.

https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/FM2A58M-VG3+%20R2.0/#Memory
Jumping on this thread - I have an i7 laptop with 8GB of RAM. Lately, I've FELT that my speed is becoming SLOW (Windows 10)

Should I upgrade the RAM? There is room for another 8GB module. Would it have a substantial improvement in performance?

On a side note, what's happening to RAM prices? The market was so cheap a few years back but it's now on the up and upSlowing down could be that it needs to be rebuilt clean with a clean install. If it has ever been infected with anything of which that stuff even cleaned out it can slow a computer down even after the problems removed. Biggest speed improvement would likely be to upgrade to a SSD from the HDD as for SuperFetch CAUSES all the RAM to get populated with info and the spill over for more memory needed then goes to paging of a SSD or HDD. SSD's can get the data to RAM faster and so you would probably find that 8GB is still plenty of RAM, but an upgrade to a SSD makes a world of difference.

SuperFetch service is suppose to give up memory in use that is flagged as lesser priority and improve performance, however I have seen that in some cases SuperFetch slows computers down and shutting off the SuperFetch service and rebooting the computer makes things better.

Lastly check drive fragmentation if your sticking to a HDD. Fragmented hard drive will slow it down. Additionally make sure that you have at least 10% of the hard drive free as for a hard drive packed with information starts to take a performance hit when they fill up to greater than 90% capacity in use. If you go with a SSD this doesn't apply to capacity affecting performance unless your had drive is completely consumed for space and then paging cant grow into the free space because there is none.

Hi guys.

I am experiencing a strange sound issue with my Sound Blaster 16 VALUE CT2840. Sounds play fine, and I solved the crackling issue, but one remains. On rare occasions when a sound FINISHES playing, I hear a snippet of the same sound briefly right AFTERWARDS. Any way to make this stop happening?

When USING firefox it is a LITTLE slow LOOK at figures is this RIGHT?Get outta Task Manager and start usin the PC...

Hello,

I am currently building a new pc with the intel B360 chipset.
The cpu I'm choosing will be one of the following - i5 8400,i5 8500,i5 8600.
8GB ram for now.
250GB ssd.
1TB hdd.

The problem is I need to choose one of the following motherboards and I'm unable to decide which one -
1. Gigabyte B360M AORUS GAMING 3
2. Asus TUF B360M-PLUS GAMING
3. Asus ROG STRIX B360-G GAMING

The PRICE difference between these motherboards is negligible from where I live.

Which one do you think is the best option?

Thank you for your helpThey all are good boards. When I am faced with a problem like this I look at the customer reviews from places that sell these boards online and then weigh which one to get BASED on that. This has helped me buy products before where one had a 3 of 5 star review because it was hit or miss getting a good product or DEAD on ARRIVAL whereas another product had 4.5 of 5 stars and when looking at the reasons why people didn't give it 5 stars sometimes its because the customer is an idiot and they put the blame on the product such as its clearly sold lacking a feature and they get it and redirect the fault to the manufacturer for not having a feature that they thought it should have which isn't listed as a feature because it wasn't designed with that feature etc.

This is not directly a computer issue, ALTHOUGH a PC is involved at some point.
We reusing a TV camera to stream audio and video over the Internet. It works fine. But we have a problem. The sound is poor.

We have thought about running a wire from out sound system to the stream. But that can create even more problems. One would be 'Lip-SYNC" if you digitise the audio and feed it into the stream. Another issue would be equipment safety* if we tried to feed audio directly into the microphone input of the TV camera. Also, running a long length of wire from the camera to the sound system will be an issue. This is an auditorium. People will trip over the wire.

We need a wireless link. I was thinking about Bluetooth. But how do I GET a pair of devices that will link up automatically? I do not want to use either a cell phone or a PC to do it. I want hardware that does not need OPERATOR attention.

I want a pair of transceivers that will link up when power is turned on. I do not want to burn up the camera. I do not want to TRAIN somebody.

Thanks for any ideas.

* I have already,in the past, destroyed things with @#$% 'common-mode' electrical mishaps. Bean there, dod' that.
What software are you using to stream? Most decent software (I've done this before with OBS) will allow you to set a delay on the audio/video in order to get it all to align, the delay will be fairly constant so once you get this set up you should remain in sync. You can get wireless audio senders but most digital ones based on things like Bluetooth are still going to introduce a delay. Personally I'd go down the route of feeding audio directly into the stream PC and deal with the delays in software.Camerongray.
Thanks for the reply. I will pass this on to my friends.
I don't know what software they are using. But I do know they are using a PC with Windows 10.

can cfn340a work with m6400 dell workstation? the hard also have a connector with it. maybe i can use it for data storage only.?Pretty ancient HDD...it'll work with the proper connectors...

You SURE you wanna trust data on it ? ?what's the issue on storing data on it? The issue is that the Drive is 26 years OLD. That is even assuming it still functions. And you can get it to work.

The Dell M6400 uses SATA connections. The drive is either IDE or SCSI (the model is produced in both VARIANTS). Unfortunately, that's going to be a problem because while you can get converters to connect SATA drives to IDE connections, the same cannot be said going the other way.

The drive is only 340MB, so it's presumably not going to be sufficient to replace whatever drive is already in the SYSTEM unless you severely downgrade the software and use an older Operating System, which is going to give you trouble with DRIVER software. Most Laptops can have a Optical bay converted to an additional HDD Bay- but again the models for the M6400 appear to all be for SATA Drives.

If you must use t he drive, you might find a 2.5" IDE Enclosure to use it as an external drive. OMG! only 340Mbs ._. i thought 340 Gbs nvm... i should better not use it

This server runs SAS drives on a Raid controller

What did you clean the drive contacts with and were you sure that the contacts were dry from this before powering?

Its unusual to have to clean drive contacts... was this a computer dumpster dived for and was out in the weather?

Try a different known good hard drive and see what happens... Try a different SATA cable as well as elimination of drive issue, cable issue, or main board issue.

This server runs SAS drives on a Raid controller . What OS are you loading?
If the OS doesn't support the raid controller and sas drives you will have to modify the install media to support this.

Also try a version of Ubuntu or Suse Linux as a test. Checking first what version runs on your Power edge

Here is a link to installing an OS on Dell servers.
https://www.dell.com/support/article/nz/en/nzbsd1/sln129177/how-to-install-the-operating-system-on-a-dell-poweredge-server-os-deployment-?lang=en

Good Catch Lisa ... I didnt look that far into this hardware because I have seen Bobs prior requests for help to which he dodges answering questions and didnt follow directions from us.

I was expecting to get a response from him like he wiped the hard drive clean by running it through a dish washer.

Hi Bob

Then if the drives are foreign and you are running raid 5 then their is your problem. You need to rebuild the raid including the 2 foreign drives. Once you have the 3 drives configured properly then you will have a complete raid array. The minimum number of disks in a RAID 5 set is three (two for data and one for parity).

I'm wanting to sell my PC, but how do I wipe it to the point that there is no recoverable sensitive data on it anymore? Also, does anyone know where I should be pricing it at?

I have a gtx 1080, i7 4790k, 1000w PSU by Corsair, h60 liquid cooling(closed) on the cpu, 16 GB of RAM(I think the speed is around 1800-2300 MHz, ddr3) the motherboard chipset is LGA 1150 so it's kind of dated but it does have an m.2 slot for a mini SSD. Also it has 3 chassis fans that keep it fairly cool. Also it runs off of Windows 10. (I'm not trying to sell it here, that would be against the rules, I'm just asking opinions on the price point)as to drive wiping, what's wrong with the good old format command.
untick the Quick Format option, let it do a low-level format and it'll wipe 0's or 1's to the entire drive.if you are really *censored*, repeat that process a couple of times.

personally, I see no point in multiple passes, if someone has the right software, inclination, time and resources, they'll get data off the surface.
yes, it won't be that porn stash or all your tax records but it could easily be a few STRINGS of your bank number or a handful of characters from your job application.
and with that sort of data - whoa watch out - real-name fraud here we come (ok, sarcasm off now)

as to the price, while no expert, $1000'ish seems too high. you have to price it so that even thinking about comparing it to a new unit isn't even considered a viable alternative.
and as a good will measure, maybe throw in 3 months warranty.
A good program to use is http://www.diskwipe.org/ You will have to hook the hard drive up to a separate computer if you want to use this command. I think the US DOD 7 pass format should be good to keep most of your data safe. It will take a while to complete. Just make sure to LEAVE your computer on, and disable hibernation and Stand-By mode. To get the best price for a used computer it is best to sell it setup with Windows. To do this you can refresh windows 10, deleting all your data. without loosing the windows setup. If you have other mechanical drives in the computer then maybe take these out and keep them the time to erase a mechanical drive so it can't be recovered, is often more time than drive is worth to sell.
I was thinking you may have a 250gb SSD with windows and a 2 TB with just data. The 2 Tb isn't going to add much to the sale price so just keep it. If your windows drive is an ssd the above procedure of deleting your data will be fine.

Here is a link to a how to refresh windows.

https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/4130-reset-windows-10-a.html
Best method is buy someone elses hard drive or a low cost hard drive and install that into your computer and install the OS to that and then sell it and retain your hard drive as the best method to someone not ever getting your data.

Newegg for example sells refurbished hard drives for as low as around $9.99 at times. I have bought these drives for projects where I have a system with removable drive bay so 1 computer can act as many depending on what drive is in the bay, as well as to retain my drives and my data under my control when selling or giving away my computers to others when I am done with them.

Look at ebay and parts out what you have and see what bids are happening for hardware as a best measure of what the actual used value is. Add the values together to get a ball park figure of what people are willing to spend and then you will know what its worth. That is the method I take. I have had some stuff before that I was going to sell and then looked at ebay and amazon to see what the components were going for before and been like wow... the bottom fell out I will just keep it, or maybe its not that bad and there is a good demand STILL and sell it to get a better part of what I originally spent for the hardware back. Video cards I have found have had an interesting used value as some are buying top of the line high end cards to farm bitcoin or other cyber currency and when a better video card comes out and the ROI quick isn't there anymore, they sell off these video cards that aren't that old but in some cases saturate the used video card market causing prices to be cheaper than you expect due to supply and demand and when there is too many of them and they are each undercutting the other guy to try to unload them to recoup most of their money to pay for the newer cards, it can cause an interesting market for used video cards. All other hardware has a more constant decline in value. The market will tell you what you have and what you can get by looking at what others are selling stuff for in which bids from multiple sources can use used as a indicator as to what people are biting at for prices. +1 to Neweggs low cost refurb drives. I have been buying these for a while for projects and no DOA's yet. Most of them are drives that are used ( with up to around 23,000 hours of wear being the most used drive sold to me ) and come wiped with a warranty. However I also bought these drives before and lucked out to get some that had less than 10 hours of run time on them and they were brand new. So those were either new drives that someone found in storage somewhere that are an obsolete model or these drives had a problem that was corrected and when tested good they were sold off.

Only thing I would say as a negative thing to using these drives is, if you value your data, buy a brand new drive and not a refurb. But if the drive dies you have no problem with a total LOSS of what is on the drive then you can cut corners and save money if storage capacity of 160GB or 250GB is plenty.

But ONE way to go cheap and have reliability in data storage would be to buy 2 drives and run them in RAID 1 Mirror, so if one drive dies your data is still on the other healthy drive. If your data is critical a RAID Mirror or better form of RAID should be in place if not a backup plan at minimum to store data to another destination should your drive fail.

If I use my PC for MOSTLY watching DVD and Blu-Ray TV SHOWS and MOVIES, which Digital Color FORMAT(RGB or YCbCr444) should I set my Nvidia graphics card(GeForce 9600 GT) to, so that the image looks best on my 1080p 23' wide-screen monitor, with HDMI connection?
Win 7
Thanks!

Where do you guys recommend i buy computer PARTS? CHEAPEST vs quality.I like "cheap with quality" myself so I TRY to get clearance and close out prices on stuff that is good name brand and good reviews.

What kind of computer do you plan to BUILD or what parts are you looking for SPECIFICALLY?

Hi guys so my laptops inverter WENT out and I ordered a NEW one I installed the new one and after 10 minutes it went out again the screen WORKED as it should for those 10 minutes and now it's doing the same thing when inverter went out can I get some help please Bulb may be drawing heavily on the inverter causing it to fail like the prior inverter did, or the voltage to the inverter is low causing the inverter to drop out possibly.

What does the voltage input to the inverter measure prior to and when the display is no longer back lit?I don't have a VOLT meter , but it's just I'm too AFRAID to put a new one in since eBay seller sending me a replacement , any ideas what I could do?Quote

I'm too afraid to put a new one in