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Hi!

This Q looks crazy, but I found not yet enough resources to get answer.

So:
i8088 is 8-bit CPU and was used in old XTs or PCjr.
i8086 is 16-bit CPU and I think it is possible to write 8-bit program 'cause x86 assembler allows to use registers in 32/16 and 8-bit size by instructions.

But if was 8-bit software written for i8086 will it work on machine with i8088?
And 8-bit program written for i8088 will run on machine with i8086?

All these Qs are also for CPU architecture - x86 we all know... but what architecture can be applicable on i8088? Is is totally other CPU or can be marked as x86, even if is only 8-bit?

Thank you for explaining all.
MiroQuote from: MIRKOSOFT on January 10, 2019, 05:20:39 PM

i8088 is 8-bit CPU and was used in old XTs or PCjr.

the 8088 is a 16-bit CPU. It uses an 8-bit data bus which affects it's performance but has nothing to do with the instructions it executes. It executes exactly the same instructions as the 8086, but slightly slower due to the 8-bit data bus.

For comparison, the 80386SX is a 32-bit CPU even though it only has a 16-bit data bus.

In May 2006, Intel announced that 80386 PRODUCTION would stop at the end of September 2007.[9] Although it had long been OBSOLETE as a personal COMPUTER CPU, Intel and others had continued making the chip for embedded systems. Such systems using an 80386 or one of many derivatives are common in aerospace technology and electronic musical instruments, among others. Some mobile phones also used (later fully static CMOS variants of) the 80386 processor, such as BlackBerry 950[10] and Nokia 9000 Communicator.
...
Chief architect in the development of the 80386 was John H. Crawford.[11] He was responsible for extending the 80286 architecture and instruction set to 32-bit, and then led the microprogram development for the 80386 chip.

The 80486 and P5 Pentium line of processors were descendants of the 80386 design.

I'm trying to view videos on the Samsung Evo plus 128gb SD CARD that I use in my dash cam using my PNY card reader.
https://www.pny.com/multi-slot-usb-and-flash-card-reader

It works fine with my laptop but not correctly on my desktop PC (slow, spotty, intermittent video and AUDIO). I tried updating the driver for this device but it says it already has the best driver installed. Device manager shows the following information which I do have a clue what it means. But I did notice it has "My Passport" included in the information. That's weird because I do have a My Passport 1TB external hard drive but it is disconnected from this PC. Could this card reader be trying to OPERATE on the driver meant for the My Passport USB drive?
Here is the information FOUND under the 'Events' tab in device manager:

Device USBSTOR\Disk&Ven_Multiple&Prod_Card__Reader&Rev_1.00\058F63666438&0 was not migrated due to partial or ambiguous match.

Last Device Instance Id: USBSTOR\Disk&Ven_WD&Prod_My_Passport_25E1&Rev_1015\575838314142364333365854&0
Class Guid: {4d36e967-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
Location Path:
Migration Rank: 0xF000FC000000F120
Present: false
Status: 0xC0000719

Thanks for any help!

The most common cause of an unrecognized SD card is a faulty, incorrect or outdated card reader driver. So the first thing you should do it check that your drivers are in good health. You can do this either manually or automatically:

Manual driver update – You can update your drivers manually by going to the manufacturer’s website and searching for the most recent correct driver. Note that for some drivers, you may need to try both the manufacturer of your PC and also the manufacturer of the card reader itself. If you don’t have the time, patience or computer skills to update your drivers manually, you can, instead, do it automatically with Driver Easy.

Automatic driver update – Driver Easy will automatically recognize your system and find the correct driver for your card reader. You don’t need to know exactly what system your computer is running or who your card reader’s manufacturer. Nor do you need to risk downloading and installing the wrong driver, and you don’t need to worry about making a mistake when installing. You can simply update your card reader driver (all your drivers, actually!) automatically with either the FREE or the Pro version of Driver Easy. But with the Pro version it takes just 2 clicks, and you get full support and a 30-day money back guarantee:

1) Download and install Driver Easy.

2) Run Driver Easy and click Scan Now button. Driver Easy will then scan your computer and detect any problem drivers.Can the desktop system handle the audio and video content in question if it is copied from the SD Card to another location such as a local hard drive?


Quote

The most common cause of an unrecognized SD card is a faulty, incorrect or outdated card reader driver.

If you don’t have the time, patience or computer skills to update your drivers manually, you can, instead, do it automatically with Driver Easy.

i have a Kalibergaming mouse (https://www.iogear.com/product_images/web/org/GME660_0.jpg) [<- image of mouse] and the spinning wheel that you use to scroll somehow broke its LIKE its out of place and i don't know how to fix it. A REPLACEMENT is about $40 from a mail order place.

Here instructions for a mouse that is ALMOST like yours.

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Logitech+MX518+Gaming+Mouse+Scroll+wheel+replacement+for+cleaning/28723if you're handy with a screwdriver, see if the mouse can be dismantled.most scroll wheels are CLIPPED into little plastic holders on either SIDE of the scroll wheel.

hi everyone!
last month my PC hard drive started making clicking sound and then died.
I lost all my info from this disk and now i decided to use external HDD as a storage for all my data.
dont have a budget. Need stable working one.
need your advises - Which one is good for this purpose?
thanks)Sash12,
You have to have a budget.
But if you don't, you have to use what is free.
Right now, cloud storage is free. Hard drives are not free.
Here is a shortlist:
Microsoft OneDrive.
Google Drive.
Dropbox. ©
Amazon Drive.
Apple iCloud.

But space is limited. Use it only for personal stuff like photos and documents.
There a list of external hard drive that is good for this purposes:
-Buffalo MiniStation Extreme NFC
-WD My Book Duo 4TB
- Seagate Backup Plus Desktop Drive 5TB
depends on what capacity and TRANSFER speed do you looking for.
By the way, if you lost valuable data and want a recovery it you can get free diagnostic here-> www.datarecovery.net/hard-drive-recovery.aspx
Good luck! Avoid the My Book at all costs...Hi Sash,

Hopefully they installed an SSD drive if so with care it will last for years. Make SURE you turn off defrag scheduler and there is no need to run defrag.

As a program for doing backups I suggest Easues Todo backup workstation: https://www.easeus.com/backup-software/tb-workstation.html

As a external hard drive look for a drive which can take up to 4 backups minimum to know the size, go properties on the drives in your computer and add up the used space, add say another 120gb for any new data you put on the drive and the multiply the total by 5.

So say at the moment you have 65 gb used add 120gb taking it to 200gb approx * 5 so 4 backups will fit on a 1 TB hard drive with plenty of space spare.

As for a drive for the backups , this depends on the usb or other ports you have on the computer. If you have USB3, (they are normally blue usb ports) then this will be ideal.

So say a 1TB Western Digital Passport or a Transcend 1TB StoreJet 25H3P also as 1 tb

For better protection start with the Transcend and then get a second 1 TB so if one drive fails you will still have the other with backups.

Depending on how much on the computer is changing and how quickly, depends on how often the backup needs to run. In some situations people want to backup every 2 minutes others only need to backup once a week.
Which depends on needs.

Another quick bit of advice, don't leave the backup drive connected to the machine all the time, only when you are RUNNING backups (or even better, have a pair of backup drives and only ever have one connected at a time) - That way if something were to happen such as a ransomware attack, it can't damage your backups at the same time as the main drive.+1 to Camerons advice.

Additionally myself I have multiple external drives and my most critical data go through a drive rotation where I have my external drives labelled and so of the 5 external drives I have I constantly backup in the order of 1,2,3,4,5,1,2,3,4,5.... so that I have 4 prior backups before the recent backup. Anything that is extremely critical to not have OVERWRITTEN or deleted I burn to DVD-R disc to place it in a read-only state. Every time an external drive is connected that allows read/write you have the risk that if your system has a virus on it that it can target the data on the external drive when connected.

About 20 years ago I lost a large amount of data from a virus that destroyed my data. The only data that I had that was safe was what was burn to CD-R's. I had floppies that were infected and i wasnt running an antivirus. I use to download all sorts of free and shareware software back then and one of them had a trojan that spread like fire through floppy disks. I had 5 computers infected because I thought the floppy disk was having a read problem in one computer so I put it into another, and then another system, and then was trying to use tools to gain access to my data on that floppy again not knowing that a virus was on it and mangled the data on it. I had a small fire of a problem that spread into a bigger fire of a problem because I didnt think that a virus would act like this. Each system that the floppy was placed into and disk accessed got infected. When I finally realized the problem I had I realized that I didnt have safe backups of the larger amount of my data. I put TRUST into having 2 systems with their hard drives storing the large amount of data and 2 systems wouldnt fail at the same time. Well this thought cost me a ton of lost data back then as for I only thought of a drive failing that 2 systems drives wouldnt fail at the same time, however both got infected at the same time, and after cleaning out the virus infection, trying to access my data after was a mess of corruption that I sadly had to just format the drives and start clean and take that loss of so much stuff I had that I created myself or downloaded off the internet through hours and hours of dialup downloads all gone.Using Seagate Hard drives for backup storage. No problems yet so farSeagate is not recommended these days. I'd suggest WD, Toshiba, etc.

Hi

When i push the POWER button my PC starts then cuts out for 2 seconds then starts. I beleive this is causing it to boot to the BIOS screen each time where i have to choose to keep or discard my settings to get into Windows.

Once in windows all is fine. I havent changed the BIOS since the barebones pc was bought in 2016 and it worked fine for nearly 2 YEARS since. Checking my BIOS settings it doesn't look like anything was accidently changed. My Power supply is a good brand - EVGA 1000w bought from new. Motherboard is ASUS. What is causing this??

heres some specs:-

OS NameMicrosoft Windows 10 Home
Version10.0.17134 Build 17134
Other OS DESCRIPTION Not Available
OS ManufacturerMicrosoft Corporation
System NameDESKTOP-GG1S19J
System ManufacturerNOVATECH LTD
System ModelBB-X000744
System Typex64-based PC
System SKUBB-X000744
ProcessorIntel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU @ 4.00GHz, 4001 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/DateAmerican Megatrends INC. 0801, 31/08/2015
SMBIOS Version3.0
Embedded Controller Version255.255
BIOS ModeLegacy
BaseBoard ManufacturerASUSTeK COMPUTER INC.
Installed Physical Memory (RAM)16.0 GB
Total Physical Memory15.9 GB
Available Physical Memory10.5 GB
Total Virtual Memory18.3 GB

Sometimes the 2032 battery can cause issues like this. I'd go into the BIOS and write down any settings you have that are custom and replace the battery and then once battery replaced then go in and verify that the settings are back to correct if custom configured from the default settings. Battery voltage should measure at least 3 Volts DC any measurement lesser than 3 Volts and toss it and put in a new battery.

Other cause for this would be if an overclock condition was not stable it will default to normal clock settings to attempt to boot healthy on the 2nd attempt.

I have had a weak 2032 battery cause weirdness like your dealing with and when looking in BIOS settings all looked well, but the battery measured like 2.84 volts when I tested it. Once I put in a new Energizer 2032 voltage was 3.06 and problem went away.Question.
What is this?
BIOS Mode Legacy
If it was made in 2015 it would not need legacy mode. Unless it was used or some other OS. Did you want legacy mode?Thanks for the reply, i did notice "legacy mode" on the spec list, does this MEAN something is outdated? If so how would i change this? Ill change the battery and see what happens as wellJust changed the 2032 battery, seems to have worked

Hello friends

I was just wondering if I would have enough clearance room for the CPU cooler and the RAM.

I wanted a be quiet dark rock pro 4 CPU cooler and corsair dominator platinum ram. I was thinking to use all four dim slots. This is not in stone and I wanted this setup for the look.

Thanks for the help If you buy your parts from a store that allows returns, you can go the route of buying and trying, and returning what has conflicting spatial relation. Or look at the data sheets/specs for each part and do the math to see if it will clear or not. Additionally some RAM is AVAILABLE in slim half height sticks that would definitely clear, but its usually for example like the Crucial Ballistix Sport Low Profile Memory that you need to go with which isn't all cool looking with gaming high performance RAM heat spreaders.

I BOUGHT Crucial Ballistix Sport Low Profile RAM for one of my SYSTEMS that the location the motherboard was in a MATX case had the tail end of a hard drive conflicting with full height RAM in the Rosewill case. No complaints with this RAM, games just fine with the FX-8350 8 core processor and GTX 780 Ti video card. ( Although I had to cut a section of the internal mATX case to remove tin where the case supported 3 hard DRIVES to remove 1 of the hard drive bays and allow for the long video card to clear inside. )I have seen people using be quiet dark rock pro 4 CPU cooler with some fancy looking rams and they had no issues. Hopefully Corsair Platinum will fit also, if it doesn't you can always return the product.

Hello EVERYONE,,
I've just received a new hard drive to replace my OLD one of 7 years. I replaced everything correctly, put all the cables back in the same places but whenever I try to boot my pc it says "please reboot and choose a bootable media or insert boot media and press any key". I'm really CONFUSED as I made a bootable media using the media creation tool on my USB on my old hard drive. I'm not sure on the specifics of my hardware or if I'm posting this in the wrong sub but my help is much appreciated...Did you remember to ENTER BIOS and set USB as 1st boot device ? ?...it's still trying to boot to the HDD...As patio mentioned have you tried to SELECT USB as first device to boot? It's still booting from HDD that's why causing this issue

They did it back in 2000 as a improvement over MXX.
I don't understand either. So I forgot all about it.

But today I tried to install Firefox in Windows XP on an old Compaq Amanda laptop.
It said it needed a CPU with SSE2. HUH?

Do you remember? Why was it needed? Is it REALLY useful?
This article is not much help:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SSE2
It's an instruction set. It extends and in some WAYS replaces the SIMD INSTRUCTIONS ADDED to MMX, like SSE did before it. They allow performing certain operations on multiple pieces of data in fewer clock cycles than it would take to do the same with traditional instructions.

Firefox, and many other applications, now utilize compiler switches (Some of which are the default) to add optimizations to the software to utilize those new instruction sets. It can also be utilized for cryptography which makes it useful for things like SSL.

here is a wiki page describing new instructions added with each x86 Processor.

I'm buying parts for my new Gaming PC build. I have chosen to go with CORE i7 8700k processor as I don't have the budget to buy I9 9900k. I'm CONFUSED which motherboard to buy, Z370 or Z390? I will be UPGRADING my system after 6 months or so. Thanks in advance.If you're tight on budget, then you can go with the Z370 without any hesitation. You won't be missing out much.

Have a GA-MA785GM-US2H and phenom II X4 965 where I CHANGED fan mode from auto to PWM and got a lockup while surfing. I was able to change back to auto fan mode but saving must have borked bios.Could only get a black screen; leds, fans, HDD and card spin. I've already t-shot everything. The problem is this bios issue.

Downloaded the bios from GB and put it on a flashdrive and was able to get past post to the preliminary screen where you press Del for Bios but that's as far as it would take me. Now, in trying to reboot, I just get a black screen again.

Anyone have any advice as to how I can access bios, so I can save/flash and get this to behave NORMALLY?

Thanks,

MacWhy are you convinced it's a BIOS issue ? ?

At any rate at boot enter BIOS and select default settings...press F10 to save changes and exit.He said:
Quote

Anyone have any advice as to how I can access bios, so I can save/flash and get this to behave normally?

So, to begin explaining this issue I need to start from the very beginning.

In 2013 I built my first rig, a good mid range gaming PC, about a month and a half ago I decided it was time to upgrade.

I upgraded the GPU, CPU, MOBO, RAM, and purchased an SSD

The change is as follows

2013 Specs:

- i5 3570k @3.4ghz

- MSI GTX 670 OC Edition

- Asrock Z77 Extreme 4

- Corsair H80i

- 8GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance (2x4)

- Seagate Barracuda 2TB + 1TB

- Corsair TX 750W

- Network Adapter (D-Link)


2018 Specs:

- i7 8700k @3.7ghz

- ASUS RTX 2080Ti OC Edition

- ASUS Prime Z370-A

- Same CPU cooling

- 16GB DDR4 Dominator Platinum (2x8)

- Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M.2

- Same HDD’s

- Same PSU (750W)

- Same Network Adapter

So, I INSTALLED the new parts with my friend and we started her up, upon checking the BIOS I noticed the RAM was only running at 2666mhz or something lower (around that figure). Seeing as it was advertised at 3200mhz I told my friend to set it to 3200mhz and we did. Now the computer was working fine. I played some games, ran totally fine.

About a week or two after rebuilding I was playing Witcher 3 for the first time and within a few days of playing this game the PC began to crash while running it. I will attach a video showing it happening. It would begin by the image freezing, sound still on, followed by this horrible stuttering noise that then turned into a blue screen.

On the bottom left I could read an Error Code saying BAD_POOL_CALLER/HEADER I forgot which error it said exactly but it was BAD_POOL something.

After being quite scared I shrugged it off and ignored the error (foolish). Rebooted my PC and tried Witcher 3 again, wondering if it was just something random. Well, it happened again, again, and again. Sometimes I could play Witcher 3 for a few hours before it would happen.

I could play Wolfenstein 2, Dota 2, Asetto Corsa, ProjectCARS, all fine without any notice of issue or interruption.

This made me think even less of the problem that was occurring. Until I played GTA 5 and noticed the same issues, same crashing. Making me restart my PC. The crashes were so random it was hard to see what was making it happen. Settings were all on maximum for each game I played so I didn’t know what to change.

Yesterday I stepped away from my computer for about 30 minutes while it was running. I came back to it, not remembering if I had a game on I noticed the screen had gone a dim black and my peripherals all without power. Just the PC remained on.

I tried rebooting it and it would take me to the windows startup repair page, where you can troubleshoot, reset PC, etc. I would click continue to Windows 10 since nothing else worked and nothing would happen. It would begin to load windows then the same thing would happen again, keyboard/mouse shut off, monitor displays nothing but a dim black
screen.

I connected that error message I had gotten days before to me switching the RAM to 3200mhz. I went into the BIOS and reverted it back to 2666mhz. The PC booted up windows and all seemed to be working perfectly now.

Even ran the free 3DMark benchmark test, all fine.

So at this point I was determined to test the Witcher 3 out and see if this problem occurred. Without even leaving the village I spawned in, it happened again. I was shook.

It went back to its regular cycle of not booting windows and giving me no display/power to my peripherals.

After trying 2-3 more times to boot it FEELING rather hopeless (even lowered the ram speed to 2600). On the last attempt I heard a popping sound that was loud enough to scare me. It sounded like the PSU.

Since that I have had it unplugged and shut off.

I’ll attach the videos/images I took to give you all a better understanding. I really hope someone can help me solve this issue. Thank you for reading this lengthy post.


Here: https://imgur.com/a/DWSEomu
Its most likely the power supply. Heavier games have more power demand to them. I was testing a system with a GTX 780 Ti video card with a benchmark and watching the power consumption through a Kill-a-Watt power meter and each NEWER version of Direct X that was tested with the benchmark pulled more power draw than the prior older Direct X test of the benchmark. My battery backup was screaming that too much power was being pulled through it which caused me to investigate this when gaming also Witcher 3 as well as Black Desert Online. The computer was pulling 460 watts through the outlet with latest Direct X 12 benchmark. My solution was to just install a LARGER battery backup that wasnt going to scream when 460 watts of power was being pulled through it.

However I have also had systems that their power supplies died and the systems became unstable before the snap-crackle-pops. One computers power supply even died in a way that the computer kept running but it let out white smoke like a party fogger that smelled like rotten fish as capacitors inside it burst and surprisingly its internal fuse didnt pop to shut it down. My wife hated coming home to the smell of roasted computer rotten fish power supply stench. This power supply was a cheap Chinese Golden Power that came with a $19.99 case that I picked up for an inexpensive build about 15 years ago.

I'd open your computer up and smell around the power supply. It should have a odd smell of say a capacitor or two that popped. Inspect the main board as well for damage as a failing power supply can also cook a main board if the voltages went too high before it shutdown with the snap-crackle-pop.

Install a new or known good power supply and see if the computer will boot ok or not. Corsair makes good power supplies but sometimes they wear out and fail. Getting 5 or 6 years of use out of a power supply is pretty good as well.

The upgrade you performed pulls more power and so the power supply may have been weak or tired under the prior build and the upgrade put it into territory that it wasn't able to keep up with the additional power demands of the newer build after upgrade.Second that re: PSU. Corsair outsources some models known to be dodgy but it might simply be age + new system. Five or six years seems when many replace, just to be safe.

If your mobo has popped a cap you might be able to get a shop to recap a few. There's a few sites that will do that inexpensively, I think a guy on ccl-la.com does it. If you're not covered by Asus...Thank you for the responses!

Currently I am about to run a stress test that someone from Nvidia Customer Care sent me to check for any faults in the hardware. I have been wondering if the GPU is faulty. The only issue now is after taking out my 670 and putting the 2080 I am getting a code 43 which is not allowing me to get a display when the HDMI from the GPU is connected (if things couldn’t get worse). So my goal is to fix this ASAP, run the stress test, send the results to Mr. Mansoor at Nvidia and see what he says. If he can’t seem to find an issue I have no choice but to get a new PSU. No hardware seems to be hurt since the night of the “pop” from the PSU.

I’m starting to think the PSU is slowly dying from age like you said, Dave.

PS.

I’ve tried a million things to fix this code 43 for the GPU, is it possible that can be related to a lack of power supply too? It just randomly came up after putting her back in an hour ago.

If onboard died as you stated above i dont think you have a dual MONITOR opyion ANYMORE...i could be mistaken thoughHi

There is 4 modes of operating 2 monitors.

PC SCREEN only: Windows will only use your primary monitor, and any additional monitors will be black.

Duplicate: Windows will show the same image on all monitors. This is useful if you’re giving a presentation and want the same image on your primary monitor and the secondary display, for example.

Extend: Windows will enlarge and extend your desktop, giving you another screen to work with. This is the option you’ll want if you’re using an additional monitor for additional PC screen space.

And last

Second screen only: Windows will turn off your primary display and only use the secondary display.

Seems you may have the screens set as PC screen only ?

If you right ckick on the desktop , select properties or windows 10 display settings you can detect the 2 monitors and configure the above settings. I would set them up as Extend mode.
You can set the order of monitor ie your primary monitor on the left or right. If you find the mouse pointer doesn't move between the monitors without going first to the right hand edge you may need to reorder them or swap the cables. It's a little hard to explain.
If you are using Windows 10 this explains it better https://www.howtogeek.com/174452/beginner-geek-how-to-use-multiple-monitors-to-be-more-productive/
And Windows 7 https://support.microsoft.com/en-nz/help/976064/guided-help-dual-monitor-setup-is-easy-in-windows-7




thanks Lisa, I can identify 1 and 2 screens but it says it cannot detect them. weird.
I have extended screens, but can't to get them working independently.Quote from: patio on January 16, 2019, 04:44:18 PM

If onboard died as you stated above i dont think you have a dual monitor opyion anymore...i could be mistaken though

Windows Update just tried (and failed) to install a "KB4023057" update just now. I'm wondering, what on earth does it do? I can't seem to find a post on the official Microsoft website about it, and any news articles I find of it (from MONTHS ago) talk about it messing with files in the user directory and network settings. So, what is update KB4023057?If you go to the following link you can find answers in the 27 replies to another user who had the same question.

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/2018-11-update-for-windows-10-version-1803-for-x64/865b6641-20aa-447c-a0b0-2d3a6d3f579f?page=1

I found the following in 1 of the replies:

2018-11 Update for Windows 10 Version 1803 for x64-based Systems (KB4023057) - Error 0x80070643
Failed to install on ‎1/‎17/‎2019 - 0x80070643 and click the link.

"This update includes files and resources that address ISSUES that affect the update processes in Windows 10 that may prevent important Windows updates from being installed. These improvements help make sure that updates are installed seamlessly on your device, and they help improve the reliability and security of devices that are running Windows 10."
So the update that will not install and fails with an error is designed to fix the problem of updates not installing and failing with an error.

Quote from: Aplam on JANUARY 17, 2019, 02:14:30 AM

Windows Update just tried Showbox Tutuapp Vidmate (and failed) to install a "KB4023057" update just now. I'm wondering, what on earth does it do? I can't seem to find a post on the official Microsoft website about it, and any news articles I find of it (from MONTHS ago) talk about it messing with files in the user directory and network settings. So, what is update KB4023057?

Can someone give ADVICE on the best way to hook up some old PC Hard Drives to a PC?


I found four old HD's in a drawer and I would LIKE to see if there is anything on them. Three have the old type of pin connector and one a SATA connector. I am RUNNING WINDOWS Ten Pro 64.

I was thinking of a cable or something rather than a enclosure.

ThanksHi ComputerTicko

You could try either of the following cable adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Converter-Drives-Laptop/dp/B01AW40QZW/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=SATA+to+USB+IDE+to+USB3.0+Cable+2.5"+3.5"+Hard+Drive+SATA+Adapter+Hard+Drive+Converter+Cable&qid=1605594612&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DS12/dp/B0758RP5V8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Sabrent+USB+3.0+TO+SSD+%2F+SATA+%2F+IDE+2.5+%2F+3.5+%2F+5.25-INCH+Hard+Drive+Converter&qid=1621872037&s=pc&sr=1-1

The “old type of pin connector” that you refer to is known as an “IDE Hard Drive”.
Go with the

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DS12/dp/B0758RP5V8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Sabrent+USB+3.0+TO+SSD+%2F+SATA+%2F+IDE+2.5+%2F+3.5+%2F+5.25-INCH+Hard+Drive+Converter&qid=1621872037&s=pc&sr=1-1

Which Term_ite linked as it has a separate power supply which helps if the computer you are powering the adapter from can't supply enough power for the hard drive.

To put simply this is my computers motherboard it's 1.8ghz I would like to find a motherboard that can fit my computer that is more then 1.8ghz. I would appreciate the help if anyone needs any other information just let me know and Ill provide what information I can.Can you please download Speccy from here https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

After you run it select file, publish snapshot and copy the URL here for review by the helpers.
Also what case will you be putting the new parts in and your BUDGET thanks

Here's the url.
http://speccy.piriform.com/results/NCFljnljNr0iMPN5SgdTkzJ
The case I'm using a laptop so I'd like to place it BACK into the case I have in the picture. So the only part id like to replace is the motherboard in the picture. I don't really have a spending limit but I'd prefer not to GO above 500$.Thankyou for the speccy report. As your processor is soldered onto the motherboard and the motherboard is manufactured for the laptop case it is not an option to replace these parts.
Your Harddrive is showing a warning suggesting you would get the best improvement by replacing the Mechanical hard drive for a SSD drive.
This part of the speccy report is of concern.

***Attribute name: Reallocated Sectors Count
Real value: 2,556,216
Current: 100
Worst: 100
Threshold: 5
Raw Value: 0000270138
Status: Good


This one would be ok Crucial 500GB MX500 2.5" INTERNAL SATA SSD

Dear Users

To record using my webcam a4tech 935 HL in 1080p video will HP 6th gen core i5 DDR4 ram will be enough for SMOOTH recording?

I have an Epson V600 scanner that produces the error CODE E425-B301 every time I try to scan. I have reinstalled the drivers from Epson website (more than once), SET to run as admin, ensured WIA is set to automatic etc but problem persists. I have a second V600 scanner that works fine regardless of USB port used and use the same cables/leads with the second one.
If I switch on the scanner while it is disconnected from my laptop it sits there quietly until I CONNECT it to the laptop via USB. It then flashes a blue light a few times and the red error light comes on. The error code shown above keeps returning. I've searched the web and can't find the MEANING of the code, however many seem to have the same problem, even with new models, but no solution.
Any and all help appreciated.If its a USB printer remove the epson app in add/remove.
Re-boot the PC and leave the printer off and re-install the software.
Do not turn on the printer til it prompts you to...Tried - same thing happens. As soon as the scanner "knows" it's connected to my laptop the same thing happens i.e. red error flashing light and same error code comes up. As I said everything works perfectly with my other scanner therefore I presume (presumption being the mother of all *censored* ups) the fault must be within the scanner itself.Have you looked up the code at the Epson site ? ?Did that too! Can't find it anywhere. All I could find was a list of printer error codes which were no use at all.Might be useful - when I check my scanner under Devices and Printers it informs me that the device is working normally (even though the red error light is flashing!).

It probably lags on all media with lots of effects. The stuttering is very noticable on my MAG274QRF, which is a 165 Hz 1440p Rapid IPS Monitor. I cant send a video because it looks fine on video (something to do with the recording software) but it just looks laggy.. like there is alot of BLUR and nothing is clear.There is also reduced VISUAL fidelity I feel on this monitor, it doesnt even look HD when I watch say a video online. The weird thing here is that... games actually run perfectly on the monitor, no LAG. The monitor seems to look 1440p apart from the video issue, including in games.



Now, I tried PLAYING the videos with a ps4 macbook AIR and pc connected to the monitor, but it lags for all. I also tried lowering the refresh rate of my monitor to 60 or 120 hz, or reducing reso to 1080p, which had no effect. I also switched off adaptive sync to no effect. I reinstalled my GPU drivers also to no avail.



If anyone knows what to do, I'd appreciate it. I do have warranty, but I'm scared they cant fix it, and i wont be able to refund it (i bought this. monitor used a few weeks ago). Furthermore, it would take 2 weeks. Thanks in advance

I am running a Dell Lattitude E6440 01, laptop, 8gb memory, 500gb HD.
This happened twice now. LAST night watching a movie streaming, with microsoft edge, after about 1 hour, system apparently shuts down, screen goes black..? hit the power button comes back quickly, and resumes where I left off.
Checked temp of cores, 51 c max.
Then ran intel diagnostics for chip, no errors, ALSO checked temp hit 57 c, but system NEVER shut down. Ran HD diagnositics, no problem
Then checked windows logs, and found this:
CRITICAL BATTERY TRIGGER MET
SYSTEM ENTERING SLEEP.
Evidently my system entered sleep mode.. why?
Also, battery is not charging holding at 5%.

So where is the problem here?

Thanks,

Hello.
I'm looking to switch to AMD and I know that the recent Ryzen CPUs use the AM4 socket. There are all these DIFFERENT chipsets but two that seem recent are the B550 and the X570. What are the differences in capabilities of these two, and is there a price difference?B550 offers one PCIe 4.0 x16 slot (usually used for the GPU) and one PCIe 4.0 m.2 slot (usually used for an NVMe SSD).

You would NEED x570 if

• you need to do heavy overclocking - x570 has beefier VRM
• you need MULTIPLE PCIe 4.0 GPUs
• you need multiple PCIe 4.0 m.2 NVMe SSDs
• you need to connect a ton of SATA SSDs (max 8 )

In cleaning out some boxes I came across several old 3.5inch discs.. They are LABELED , " family pics" probably misplaced.

When transferring all photos from 3.5 to the now STANDARD CD or Thumb drives I must have omitted these.

Also note that the format was PICASA.. ( of course this would be a software issue)

Any one have any thoughts on how to recover these or deal with the "PICASA "

First see if the Floppy's are readable if they are although you say they are Picasa file , Picasa was a photo editing program so could read lots of file types. If the files are *.PMP then perhaps someone can SUGGEST a editor which will open them. IrfanviewIf the files are Picasa files which are *.PMP then Irfanview does not support opening them.

Google Picasa Does, as I don't have any files to check but this website shows it as a compatible file.

https://www.solvusoft.com/en/file-extensions/software/google/google-picasa/
Thanks for you input.
If I recall PICASA was ORIGINALLY a free software from google.

Is there --available --peripheral HARDWARE that will or load play the 3.5 s? Thus I can copy into my newer photo files ?
Or am I trying to buy an Antique ?
Again Input appreciated.


You can still buy external 3,5 floppy drives...

Dear Users
I want to built NAS storage using Dell power edge server for PERSONAL use and YouTube files. What i want to ASK that let say if I access 1GB file from my server from another connection outside my LAN. so when 1GB file is downloaded what is the internet usage on my server? means if some other person downloads a file but what about my internet usage??Biggest thing is going to be what you upload bandwidth is. As far as setting a priority of who gets a better connection its all shared connections with no one having a greater priority, however whoever has the better download bandwidth will gain a stronger handshake to the upload from the server serving it. Best assumption for bandwidth to users accessing the server for files is to divide the number of users by the total bandwidth and so if you have 10 systems downloading from it they all get 10% of total bandwidth assuming they all have the same RATE of download speed.

Unless you have fiber with a lot of upload bandwidth, you might find troubles with downloads from elsewhere if there are many people hitting your server.

Also to note the server that is hosting files, as there are multiple downloads happening you could get heavy drive sweeping as the server is trying to send out packets of multiple different files at the same time. If you have a project or files that are frequently to be downloaded you could host them into a RAM Drive, and this way the Hard Drives aren't cause of latency in the download as the data is almost immediate to FORMED to packets and outbound from system RAM. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAM_driveBundle of thanks bro
So, to reduce my side data if I only give read only access then will it reduce data usage?Read Only would only MAKE it so that no one would be able to alter the files at your end. If the file is 100MB and they request it, then its going to be 100MB uploaded from your server to be downloaded to them.

Read Only benefit is only if you dont want anyone altering the files on the server, however they can download them to their local computer and change the read-only attribute and alter a copy of the file at their end. If you dont give write permission on your server then your file that is read only and the shared folder that they access cant have files added only copies of those files downloaded.

My computer all of a sudden started making this sound like its constantly booting up and then SHUTTING down but its on and everything works fine.
Here is a LITTLE clip of what it SOUNDS like.
https://youtu.be/4Xn9pqPQkb8
please help if ANYONE can.
Thank you.

Hi, I am building a new PC for gaming, looking to play at 4k 60 fps (high-quality of course) tops. This is the parts I have currently managed to pick:

AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor
MSI GODLIKE AM4 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600
Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case

And it's the graphics card where I am stuck right now.

According to this website https://finalratings.com/best-motherboard-for-i5-6600k/, the GPUs in both the RX 6600 and Rx 6600XT are the same with an only major difference in their memories. My question here is that is it worth spending the extra $100 bucks. I want to push the limits, will there be a noticeable difference if I go for RX 6600XT? MSI MEG X570 GODLIKE EATX AM4 Motherboard and Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case are not compatible. The GODLIKE motherboard is of form factor EATX and the case only supports mATX/ATX CONFIGURATIONS. Additionally, some AMD X570 chipset MOTHERBOARDS may NEED a BIOS update prior to using Vermeer CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions.

Do I need an external hard drive that plugs in via USB? Or do ZIP DRIVES have just as much storage SPACE these days as an external hard drive? I'm not sure what I need, but I need to get one to back up all my computer files. ThanksFirst question I would ask is how much data do you have to back up?
My computer says I have 1.71 TB Free of 1.81 TB. But I also have another external hard drive with stuff on it which is full, and I might want to put some of that or all of that onto this new backup drive. And that external hard drive is 500 GB. If the numbers you provided are correct, you have, at most, 100GB of data on your computer to backup.

As far as which device is best to use for backup, I'd say external hard drive. At this time it seems like a 750GB would be more than enough for your backop needs unless you expect to add lots of data to your system in the coming months. How could I have at most 100 GB on my computer if it says I have 1.71 TB Free of 1.81 TB. That would mean I've used 10TB, and 100GB is not even 1 Tb according to google.
(1.81TB - 1.71TB) is equal to .1TB which is 100GB. Beside the fact that 1.81TB is far less than 10TB. Did you provide the correct numbers?2 x 1TB USB hard drives would be an option. Keep one in a save place or at another persons place. Don't be tempted to use this drive for anything other than the occasional backup. Then have the other drive for regular backups, how OFTEN depends of how much content you are creating on the computer.

A program I like is Easues Todo backup. Okay I see, I was looking at the numbers wrong. I only need 1 or 2 TB storage device.

But I see that there are flash drives on Amazon that are 1 or 2 Tbs - Is a external hard drive better than a flash drive for some reason? Because if not I just assume go with a flash drive since they're smaller.

Hi! I am a newcomer to this field, so have mercy if this is a silly question but I want to know is storing external harddrives side-by-side, or even on top of one another, in any way can compromise the stored information (this is a magnetic medium after all)? I know loudspeakers and electric radiators are forbidden zones, but hard drives which are turned off, just lying down? I have so much important, personal stuff on them, that having it erased would be a total disaster!!!

And, while I am at it, should they be turned on from time to time, to "charge them up?" I seem to recall reading SOMEWHERE that a hard drive that is just lying there, not used at all, will start do "decompose" (as these things go ) and erase stored information after a while. If so, how often, and for how long, should they be connected to the computer?

Like I said, am a newcomer, but would appreciate help..

Have a nice life and stay safe. There are nasty viruses in the outside world, too.I have had hard drives close to each other for years and no problems.

I had a old IDE hard drive from 1997 that was 4.3GB in capacity last up until 2 years ago spending 15 years in storage and it finally died because the motor that spins the platters wasnt spinning up to full speed. I had prior to that backed up all the data to a DVD-R disc though and still have all the data.

You are correct in that you dont want to have them stored near a strong magnetic source, such as I destroyed a bunch of floppy disks years ago because I decided to place them stacked on top of a desk that had a large woofer speaker under it and the field of the woofer caused data loss to them.

Any data that is critical should be backed up among multiple storage locations and if critical to where you cant live without the loss of the data it should also be up on cloud storage or saved as a backup in more than one location so that if anything happened to the data at the one location such as a fire etc you have it safe elsewhere.

I have stacks of older drives that I use for long term storage of data, data that was on them that is higher importance also is burned to DVD-R and located at more than just the home as I also use my cloud storage. I have them numbered with marker and a index notebook that says what is on each drive and so if I NEED data I can go into the dry attic and GET one of the drives and dock it to the USB IDE or USB SATA dock and spin it up and copy that data to my local system that I will use it at.I intended to post a related question and found this thread.

Quite a few years ago i got a 1TB external hard drive to store photos and it is now almost full. I will buy a new one and am wondering about getting a 4TB and copying all the existing photos to it. I will keep the original but want to minimise the risk of it failing at some time and LOSING everything on it.

Is this a reasonable action?It is a good idea to have any important data stored on more than 1 device. With things like photos which are often irreplaceable then 3 places would be ideal.
I personally would rather have a 1 or 2 TB drive than a 4 TB, especially if this is of the pocket size and USB powered.

If you are going to Larger drives you are better getting a powered desktop drive like these https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/external-drives/wd-my-book-usb-3-0-hdd#WDBBGB0040HBK-NESN

Quote

I personally would rather have a 1 or 2 TB drive than a 4 TB, especially if this is of the pocket size and USB powered.

I have a Deluxe PC with an ASROCK ALiveNF6G-GLAN MOTHERBOARD.

When I was younger I unplugged the front pannel connectors and now I'm trying plug them back in.

I looked in the manual, but I still have a hard time connecting some of cables.

Here is the manual in pdf: https://download.asrock.com/Manual/ALiveNF6G-GLAN.pdf. At page 10 is the motherboard layout and at pages 20 and 21 the front panel headers.


-I managed to plug in in the System Panel Header, but I have a second POWER LED cable of 3-pin size, I can't figure where that goes, or if it was plugged in before.

-There is a SPEAKER 4-pin cable. The place for speaker is in the 1ST red circle, but there seems to be a small speaker already there. So if I want to plug in from the front panel another speaker I have

to disconnect that one and plug the 4-pin cable?

-There's a cable connecting the fan from the back to the motherboard (circle 2) and to the DVD Writer (cicle 5). When I removed the case, the fan was disconnected from the motherboard, but the cables

in circle 3 were connected. I tried to also plug in the fan but the cable could reach there so I unplugged it from the DVD writer. How this cable should go?

-circles 4 and 5 are the ENDS of some cables which I haven't touch now, but I'm sure if they should be plugged in somewhere or not.

-I tried to plug in in the Front Panel Audio Header, as you can see in the picture below. There are some duplicates (for EAR L for example). What is their purpose?
r/pchelp - Unplugged front panel connectors Asrock ALivenNF6G-GLAN motherboard

I tried to plug in the usb cables, but I read somewhere that a +5V usb would break my motherboard or something


r/pchelp - Unplugged front panel connectors Asrock ALivenNF6G-GLAN motherboard

How I tried to plug them in

Here is how the motherboard looks like and how I connected the cables: https://imgur.com/a/f2dr17e
Here are the connectors: https://imgur.com/a/G4ha4G1

Also, where I can find the serial number of the motherboard? https://imgur.com/a/G4ha4G1 is it the first/second number in the label of the first picture or FSBIGHz above the RAM in the second picture?I wanted the serial number in order to contact Asrock but the pc is old and I no longer have the box of the motherboard/PC.


UPDATE: I tried running it, but the diplsay says check CONNECTION cable. I tried the monitor with the cable on a laptop and it seems to work FINE though. I tried moving the CMOS jumper but the pc doesn't start. When I put the jumper back and plug it into power, it powers on automatically.EDIT: the link with the serial pictures should be this one https://imgur.com/a/itSxyZp

Quick Background on my laptop
Laptop: Asus ROG Strix G - G531G
OS: Windows 10 Home 20HZ 19042.985
Processor Intel i7 9750H
Intel UHD 630 Graphics card and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650
Ram: 32GB
Motherboard: AsusTek Computer Inc: G531GT
BIOS Version/date: American Megatrends Inc. G531GT.307 - 4/28/2020

THE PROBLEM: (kind of long sorry)
my laptop's display sometimes doesn't turn on when I open the laptop. The backlit keyboard lights up and the fan is running so I know the computer is On, but the display isn't lighting up at all. Not just a BLACK lit screen but just off. It only really happened when I shut the laptop and some other posts suggested it was a "stuck in SLEEP mode" problem and that all I had to do was unplug my laptop, hold the power button for 60 seconds and then turn it on after. And that did work for a while until I noticed that sometimes even after 3 or 4 attempts at this "hard restart" the screen wouldn't turn on. I would have to leave my laptop alone for a while, at least a couple hours before I could try getting the screen to turn on.

Eventually the laptop screen just didn't turn on at all anymore and at this point, about a month later, I had access to a second monitor and tried plugging that into my laptop. The second monitor immediately lit up and displayed my windows login screen as my internal monitor would if it worked. I could use my laptop just fine as long as I had a second monitor. I believed this to be some hardware issue with the LCD or cable and sent it into the warranty company to be fixed claiming this issue and they sent it back saying they fixed some sort of sound issue instead with no mention of anything display wise. I opened the laptop and the display seemed to work fine at first, it turned on, but closing it and opening it again revealed that the problem still remained. I contacted the warranty company again, TOLD them the issue wasn't RESOLVED, that is was my display, sent it in, got it back, and this time they said they solved an issue where the OS couldn't boot to windows or desktop (something like that) but when I got it back the display issue still remained. It didn’t seem to be anysort of OS issue since I could still use my laptop normally as long as I had a second display.

They (warranty company) seemed to think that it was some kind of software problem, but the thing is my laptop OS can boot to windows. It works just fine with another monitor as I've said, so I didn't think that was the issue. I eventually decided to try and keep track of when my laptop screen went dark, for how many days it would stay dark or work, and document what software solutions I could try in the meantime to see if it was a software issue. So Overall I've noticed my laptop has 4 different "modes." The first is that I open the laptop and the internal monitor works fine, and would sometimes work fine for a couple of hours or days. The Second is the Laptop internal display doesn't turn on, but when I plug a second monitor in and look at the display settings, it shows the internal display and says "display 1 isn't active" and I can turn it on by clicking the extend screens OPTION in the settings. The Third is similar to the second except I can't turn the internal monitor on with extend screen option, it just won't. The fourth is that my laptop doesn't even detect an internal monitor. I check the display settings, the device manager but it only shows the second monitor I have plugged in. I've been unable to notice any sort of "trigger" for any specific mode, they seem to appear randomly, last randomly long and in general have no pattern I can recognize.

“FIXES” I’VE ALREADY TRIED AND DIDN’T WORK:
Setting my laptop to “do nothing” when I close the lid.
Turning off fast start up in windows
Turning off Windows automated driver updates to prevent it from messing with what's already installed.
Going to the manufacturers website to find the most recent driver updates and installing them
Going to previous drivers that came out before the issue started.
Updating windows
Going to the ASUS Website and installing the latest BIOS update
Having my laptop reset (multiple times)
Using the administrative command prompts to DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth and SFC /SCANNOW
“Reseating” my RAM

Some of these attempts, mostly the driver and windows updates, cause my computer to shift “modes” so like the internal monitor will turn on after reset or it won’t detect the internal monitor. I’ve checked and, no, it isn’t any specific driver or update that causes any specific mode. So far none of them have solved the issue. I haven’t tried any other hardware fixes quite yet because I’m not that confident with computers' internal hardware and don’t want to touch anything I don’t entirely understand.
Just to sum up the problem: the laptop internal screen with work fine as long as possible until I either close the screen or restart/ turn off then turn on again, the laptop in which case there is a change for the laptops screen to stay black and I need a second monitor to do anything

(adding this just in case it's important but sometimes when I check the task manager to see why the laptop is running so slow there’s a task called “system interrupts” using 100% of the CPU. It doesn’t seem to last long but its there.)

sorry for the long read :/
Any help is appreciated thanks

The FULL title is:
How to use screen mirroring with your Android™ or Windows® device
Here is the link from Roku:
https://support.roku.com/article/208754928-how-to-use-screen-mirroring-with-your-android-or-windows-device

This is not new. Just new to me. I though you could only use a Chrome CAST device.

My question is: Does this really work GOOD?

Yes
Not For me


The full title is:
How to use screen mirroring with your Android™https://acmarket.download or Windows® device
Here is the link from Roku:
https://support.roku.com/article/208754928-how-to-use-screen-mirroring-with-your-android-or-windows-device

This is not new. Just new to me. I though you could only use a Chrome cast device.

My question is: Does this really work good?
Quote from: cynthiaD89 on April 20, 2020, 05:34:57 AM

Not For me


The full title is:
How to use screen mirroring with your Android™https://acmarket.shop or Windows® device
Here is the link from Roku:
https://support.roku.com/article/208754928-how-to-use-screen-mirroring-with-your-android-or-windows-device

This is not new. Just new to me. I though you could only use a Chrome cast device.

My question is: Does this really work good?

Thanks for the advice on the new monitor

Hi, my monitor is 2 years old and broke last weekend. I am looking for a new monitor and WOULD like to ask for your advice. I WANT to find a screen 20 inches and due to work for 8 HOURS or more and constantly using the computer, if the monitor is good for eyes, it is STILL the best.
Thank you for your support. By the way, if there is a price, even better. Thank you very much!

Thanks for the advice on the new monitor

hi guys

i replace my laptop hdd with another hdd and install widows 10 on new one after than i return my old hdd to my laptop now i cant install any os on old hdd also my BIOS SETTING is hidden now

i TRY to any bios hot KEYS novo keys and ,,,,,,, not working

Laptop MODEL is Lenovo G570

I have a Dell latitude e6420 laptop which is running windows 7 64bit. I have a NEW fresh install with no ethernet drivers.I have downloaded drivers on my other cpu and moved them over and installed them but it has not solved problem.my service tag is :ctvx2r1. please helpWhen you plug cable in do you see a GREEN Light with a blinking yellow light?

If you DONT see a green light lit when cable is connected then try replacing the cable your using to see if this fixes the issue.

Does Device Manager show that all is correct for this Network Adapter or a Red or Yellow icon showing a problem or a warning that something isnt quite right?

If you enter Code: [Select]CMD at start RUN and hit enter and then enterCode: [Select] IPCONFIG/ALL does it show an IP address? If so is this address a 192.x.x.x address or a 169.x.x.x address.

If you see a 192.x.x.x address, what do you see if you enter Code: [Select]PING www.google.com .... does it show that it resolves with an IP Address for the Google server that your system is pinging or an error message that its unable to ping google.I plugged in cable and no light showed up. When i plugged it in in another laptop a light showed up so I dont THINK it the cable. When I open CMD and do ipconfig/all no ip address shows up only physical addresses.Quote from: Brandon on March 20, 2017, 08:09:01 AM

....my service tag is :ctvx2r1...

I Do not want to BUY a new computer, no trolling that please.
I have given up hope on getting a new graphics card in hopes getting one that can run openGL 3.3 or better.
i do not want a new machine. I'm hoping that if i get a new motherboard it'll have some inter graded graphics that would have open gl 3.3 or better to run. It's for gaming. So is there a mobo i can put in this machine that would be compatible, just want open GL and it to be for windows 7. Oh wise internet wizards, is there hope?

I got some current upgrades for my machine, if they are not compatible I can replace them, just LETTING you all know so mabye it can help:

got a new power suply, I installed it, it's in there running great, right now. works perfectly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-PC-Power-Supply-Upgrade-for...

Here's what the inside of my machine looks like right now:

https://photos.shutterfly.com/gallery/17255bfb-35f7-4a0...

Here are the system specs:
OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium
Version 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1 Build 7601
Other OS Description Not Available
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
System Manufacturer eMachines
System Model ET1330
System Type x64-based PC
Processor AMD Athlon(tm) II X2 235e Processor, 2700 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 2 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date AMI P01-A0, 8/13/2009
SMBIOS Version 2.6
Windows Directory C:\Windows
System Directory C:\Windows\system32
Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume2
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "6.1.7601.17514"
Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 6.00 GB
Total Physical Memory 5.75 GB
Available Physical Memory 2.62 GB
Total Virtual Memory 14.7 GB
Available Virtual Memory 10.7 GB
Page File Space 9.00 GB
Your solution


Here are more specs just in case:
Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 235 31 °C
Regor 45nm Technology
RAM
4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 401MHz (6-6-6-18)
Motherboard
eMachines MCP61PM-GM (CPU 1) 41 °C
Graphics
L1932TQ ([emailprotected])
256MB NVIDIA GeForce 6150SE nForce 430 (Acer Incorporated [ALI])
Storage
698GB Seagate ST375052 8AS SCSI Disk Device (SATA) 41 °C
298GB Seagate ST332041 8AS SCSI Disk Device (SATA) 40 °C
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH40F SCSI CdRom Device
MagicISO Virtual DVD-ROM0000
Audio
Realtek High Definition AudioI don't think you should call helpfully-meant SUGGESTIONS "trolling". Also I think that starting a thread by warning-off answers that you don't want is a good way to severely limit the number of responses you get. Does the new board have to use existing CPU & RAM?

If that Windows install is not full retail (if it is OEM), you are likely going to have to pay out for a new Windows license, which is why buying another, possibly used, PC could be a more viable solution financially. Even in 2008 or 2009 this is a low end computer. Today it's just hopelessly outdated. (Quote from a 2012 forum post I found.)







Good luck finding a new MBoard for that as well...

The issue with eMachines also is they had a history of buying MBoards in bulk for a production Model # from the cheapest manuf. at the time...
I have seen eMachine models have boards from 3 to 5 different manuf.s on 1 Model so unless you have physically removed the board to check you NEVER know...

I am sure however you could probably locate a used one on eBay or elsewhere...Thanks guys, i did not know it was that bad. do you have any suggestions on a motherboard that has opengl 3.3 or higher already on it? or a nvidia DDR2 graphics card?I think the best way we can approach this to suit your needs is if we start with a budget 1st...

Also a general list of the apps and games you run most often or would like to be able to run...

That'll give us a starting point.

got a Zebra UPS LP2844 for my store but it won't print at the moment.
Ver. 2.6.67 build 3539

in connected devices it shows the printer is connected but has a yellow triangle in the bottom
when you go into its options it shows eferything on pause and says

Java printing: error printing

any ideas? any more info needed just ask. See Here...Quote from: patio on January 22, 2017, 03:41:45 PM

See Here...

I just BUILT my computer, all of the fans are running, there is no beeping, and no negative leds. However, after I boot up my pc I receive no DISPLAY on my monitor. The monitor works perfectly, all of the monitor's cords work, and the gpu has no issues. I have tried plugging in the monitor to both my gpu and directly into the motherboard and still receive "no signal". All of the fans work when I HIT the power switch, only the display is not working. I've been trying to figure out the problem for 15 hours please help.Hey, I'm guest_30(the gal who had the same problem as you)
I ended up fixing the issue in my pc, but I'm not sure if it will work for you too or if I just got lucky.

I have adapter cables running from my power supply to my gpu because apparently you need those sometimes(I suck at hardware) anyways, when I went to un-seat my gpu and re-seat it I decided that I would redo the adapter cables too just because and some of the connecting pins weren't in all the way, I assume that when I repositioned my ssd earlier I tugged the cables slightly because the cable attatched to the pin is extremely loose and easily disturbed, I know it's a longshot, but it might be the same issue that you were having.Thanks, but I don't think that I have the same problem, I wired my monitor directly into my motherboard and it didn't work either. My motherboard might just be dead, but I want to confirm it first.Flip the ribbon around so that it connects to the center slot in the middle of the connection on the hard drive.If you are trying the monitor on the motherboard you'll need to remove the graphics card first, the onboard graphics are usually disabled when a card is detected. Can you provide a list of all parts used to build the system in case there is some sort of incompatibility?

What I'd do is simplify everything down - Run with just the onboard graphics with the video card removed, run with a single stick of RAM and disconnect all drives - You essentially want to try with the bare minimum to get the machine to POST. Also check the power connections to the motherboard, in particular make sure that the 4/8pin CPU power connector is connected properly.z170agaming M3 motherboard
i7 7700k cpu
gtx970 gpu
2x16g corsair ddr4 ram

I tried to simplify it down and it still didn't workSo after removing the vid card (did you do this yet ? ) and connecting to onboard vid you still get no display on a known working monitor...correct ? ?

What MBoard connector...VGA or HDMI ? ?I believe I have found the problem, my motherboard's bios does not currently support my cpu, so I am, going to have to use an older, supported cpu to INSTALL all of the drivers and update my bios.

I've got a PCI fax-modem for which I can't find a driver.
I pulled it out of an OLD pc but I have no DISK or documentation.

I've tried using Windows-7 to find a driver; it can't.

Following are the hardware and compatible ID's from details
in Device manager:

HARDWARE ID's:

PCI\VEN_10B9&DEV_545A&SUBSYS_545A201F&REV_00
PCI\VEN_10B9&DEV_545A&SUBSYS_545A201F
PCI\VEN_10B9&DEV_545A&CC_070300
PCI\VEN_10B9&DEV_545A&CC_0703

COMPATIBLE ID's:

PCI\VEN_10B9&DEV_545A&REV_00
PCI\VEN_10B9&DEV_545A
PCI\VEN_10B9&CC_070300
PCI\VEN_10B9&CC_0703
PCI\VEN_10B9
PCI\CC_070300
PCI\CC_0703

Please also see the attached pic's of the modem itself.

I tried searching online using the hardware ID's and I found
something, but its very old (2005) and its 32-bit. I did
download and attempt to install (it was and .inf file) but
windows barked saying it couldn't install it, so I'm guessing
it just wasn't compatible.

I tried using a driver update utility DevID.info: no luck. It didn't even
see the modem in the list of drivers and those it did find that were
outdated and didn't work.

Also tried DriverIdentifier to see if it could identify the modem and
get me a driver: nope.

Anybody have any thoughts on how I can get this modem
recognized and made useable in my pc?

Any advice is mucho appreciado!

[attachment deleted by admin to CONSERVE space]Try running the FCC ID# in a search...

Windows may have balked at the install if it's a newer ver. of Windows BTW...From the Chip, it would seem to be a SmartLink SL1801.

Most recent driver seems to be for Windows 2000.

I don't think there are drivers for Vista or later, so you'd be out of luck for Win7.@ BC_Programmer

Rats! But thanks!

Anybody else have a suggestion?

Thanks!Here is an idea.
Use an Ethernet card to get into Internet.
Let windows try to detect and find a driver over the Internet.
Question. Why do you need to use an old FAX/Modem anyway?
Some devices whose driver support ended with Win2K will still run on an XP machine...but nothing newer.@ Geek-9pm : been there, done that. Windows doesn't find a driver.

@ patio : this fax-modem isn't that old; it doesn't date to the year 2000.
I like having a fax-modem so I can word process something
and fax it directly from the pc.

Anyone else have any suggestions? Quote from: JohnDohe on March 23, 2017, 08:38:29 PM

@ patio : this fax-modem isn't that old; it doesn't date to the year 2000.
I like having a fax-modem so I can word process something
and fax it directly from the pc.

hello,
i took the HDD out of my old laptop which ran windows 8 and put it into a HDD enclosure ( the screen went bad). i am trying to ACCESS the data on my new laptop that is running
windows 10. it is connected through a USB CABLE and the drive does spin. My new laptop is unable to even recognize that there is a external HDD attached.In a few cases a drive MIGHT behave differently on another PC or on a a cheap generic USB adapter. (An USB adapter can be prone to noise pickup and the power block they come with it is very weak and can not spin the drive at full speed.)

Did the old laptop work with the bad screen?
In so, you could have used an external monitor with the old laptop. The enable file sharing and share the documents from the old use on the old laptop.

I think the problem is the USB adapter. (In case you ask.) The old laptop is gone and cannot be used anymore, was just hoping to salvage the DATA. The HDD enclosure is a Sabrent model no. EC-UASP. if that helps.
It looks like the enclosure doesn't have it's own power supply. That is likely the cause of your problem. A lot of these sorts of devices expect that they can draw whatever power they need from the Port, but that only works on some computers/laptops which don't strictly adhere to the USB standards- Otherwise, the limitation is 500mA until the device basically asks for more.

A workaround could be to use a powered USB Hub or find an appropriate "Y-Cable". less power will usually allow the drive to spin but it won't be able to really do anything else.You might try connecting the old HDD to a desktop computer.
Many desktops still have the older IDE connector available, in case the laptop HDD was of the older type.
If the desktop only has two drive ports, unplug the DVD drive and use its cable to read the old HDD. Don't forget the power connector.
And yes, you knew to unplug the AC cord first - Right?

Does the drive spin?I have tried hooking the HDD into my desktop (not through USB) but it has windows 7 where the HDD has windows 8 and cannot read it. and yes i unplugged it before changing anything.

I ordered a powered USB hub and will try that when it arrives.Quote from: nitelife2989 on July 21, 2017, 09:38:52 PM

but it has windows 7 where the HDD has windows 8 and cannot read it.

Can I use some kind of SOLVENT to clean the print heads on my Epson Eorkforce 545 all in one printer?
It took a lot of ink to clean the heads after the thing had ben in storagfe for about a YEAR. So no I wonder if I should have tried some other method. LIKE maybe a nild solvent.
I have not tried anything else. I just did what they said and it used about half of all my ink. It took many tries to get a clean clear print of a coor photo.
So my question is, I there a better way to clean the print head? And what shoyuld I do when I have to put the printer in storage?

One REFERENCE says:
The mixture USES either ammoniated window cleaner (which uses glycol, alcohol, water and ammonia) with extra isopropyl alcohol, or in places where ammoniated window cleaner isn’t available, use ammonia mixed to about 1% concentration, and adding the isopropyl.

OS: MAC 10.6.8 ; External HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.11, Format: Mac OS Extended (journaled)
My External HDD had trouble spinning, which was resolved. Now it spins for about a minute once connected and stops. It doesn't show up on desktop but seen on Disk utility with a lower volume (Shows as 4.14Gb INSTEAD of 1.5Tb). I cannot repair, erase or reformat it using disk utility gives “Cannot allocate memory” or “Resource busy” error message.
Tried using the terminal with dd-code: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/how-to-create-disk-image-on-mac-os-x-with-dd-command/#comment-920537 to do the same gives “Resource busy” error when used the command with gzip, otherwise gives “/dev/destination drive/foo.img: Not a directory” error. The unmount using dd was successful.
I cannot successfully recover any of my files. Used one of the disk recovery tool to make Disk Image ~3.86Gb size.

Does anyone got any idea what could be the problem? I am reluctant to hand it over to data recovery... any DIY solutions?
Can try removing the HDD from external enclosure and installing it into a desktop computer as a slave drive and see if you can access it that way. This way if there is an issue with the external enclosure electronics that's eliminated. I have had external drives die before and it be the enclosure that died.Thanks DaveLembke, the possibility of external enclosure problem is eliminated since I have tried different enclosures and docks. They all gave me the same results. I thought it could be a hardware issue, possibly with the platters but, it is accessing 3.86Gb from the HDD. So I WONDER how is that possible.3.86GB could be accessed if you have multiple partitions on the drive and 1 of say 2 partitions is still healthy. Look in Disk Management and see if it shows other partitions. Additionally run CrystalDiskInfo and scan that drive for health. It will read the S.M.A.R.T data off the drives in the system and you can select the drive that has the issue from the list and if there are any warnings, then that drive is in bad shape and will need to be replaced.Better off runnin SeaTools since it's specific to the HDD...It sounds like the drive MAY have failed altogether.

You mention your OS Version (Mac OS 10.6.8 ) but you don't mention the specific system you are using. Is this a MacBook, Desktop, etc? Ideally, you would remove the drive from it's enclosure and connect it directly. Enclosures and docks all tend to use the same USB controller circuitry and thus can often exhibit the same issues when it comes to drives that aren't in tip-top shape, the sort of issues that a motherboard SATA Host Adapter doesn't EXPERIENCE or can at least get more specific information regarding.

Otherwise, you might try Dave's suggestion by connecting this external drive to a Windows system (and of course saying no to any format/initialization prompts) and using Disk Management and/or CrystalDiskInfo; it might tell you something more than what Disk Utility did regarding the size of the drive. As I recall, 10.6 indicates that you are using an Intel-based Mac which should allow for BootCamp operation, so you might already have Windows available for this purpose without using another system. Alternatively you can find tools like "smartmontools" that can be used from OSX.



Thanks BC for assisting with this... I totally missed the part that they are using a Mac. But with their build they could test it with tools with bootcamp operation.

Hi guys, I need a pinout diagram for this PSU, I believe that it's made by Delta. I've spent a fair bit of time looking on Google for it and haven't been successful yet. If anyone can assist with this I would be grateful.Curious why your going through trouble of fixing a cheap power supply vs buying a new one? I'm not fixing a cheap PSU. This is so I can BUY a new one.it might *possibly* be the same as DPS-108BD-1A

http://pinoutguide.com/Power/hp_pavilion_psu_pinout.shtmlThis is what the PSU looks like, it has some strange adapters on it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DPS-320NB-1-A-613764-001-320W-Power-Supply-For-HP-Compaq-8200/131963533843?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41669%26meid%3D537f0e67445b477f85fc1f55ba1ebe6f%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D281215671019Thanks for clarification on power supply. The stock image of one of these the other day showed a standard ATX power supply picture with the universal 24pin power connection and some P connectors. I thought maybe you wanted to know pinout to probe voltages to troubleshoot in which getting another power supply would be best. However as you pointed out its an oddball power supply specific to this build. In your latest link digging further thinking I could get the pinout maybe from the motherboard if there was a diagram that shows the molex connectors and their pinouts on the motherboard of https://www.serversupply.com/products/part_search/pid_lookup.asp?pid=205811&gclid=CL7fpu6r6tICFctMDQodx0oDmg

But havent found pinout here. I was then thinking maybe there is a conversion kit out there a wire harness that can plug into a standard ATX power supply and redirect the power supply to conform to the strange 3 molex configuration of this HP/Compaq system but none found yet.

Its really odd that instead of the power connection going direct from power supply to the DRIVES, it passes the power through the motherboard and back out to the drives as seen in a hard to find image of this oddity build.

Going to keep digging AROUND to see if I can find this one either a pinout for motherboard, power supply, or converter adapter cable to allow for standard universal power supply to be USED.



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I'm setting up to take some pictures of the motherboard, I can't read that 2 point type to save my life
An enlargement will help I think
Okay, I think that this is the motherboard model number PCEAV0ECY4AGVB. There are some other numbers below it, but they are like pica 1 or some such crap.

If I remove my CD DRIVE and slip in a second hard drive in the CD bay will this work WITHOUT hurting my laptop.Probably, if the CD bay was designed to accept hard drives.
I've done this before in a few laptops including a MacBook Pro. It works fine using the appropriate drive caddy. The only issue could be if the laptop has a badly designed bios that won't let you boot from a drive in the optical bay but I've never seen this happen. The only thing to bear in mind is that your optical bay may not have the same level of shock/vibration protection as your main drive bay.You can GOOGLE it and find many have put a second drive in laptops that have two drive BAYS. Including some You Tube videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_n3KCjQYDHI
(Skip the ad.)

Hello
I'm not sure why this is happening and I don't seem to be able to fix it, but each time I start my computer I have a few usb devices that seem to reconnect because I hear Usb connection sounds. 2 devices are on a Usb pci card and two are on usb ports on my motherboard. I know these devices are reconnecting because I have a program called UsbDeview and under the HEADING "Last Plugged/unplugged" it shows the date and time these were plugged/unplugged. Everytime I boot up my PC, Human interface devices show that my Mouse/keyboard/ Oculus Rift sensors/ are all reconnecting when my computer boots up. I also hear sounds of the Usb's connecting on startup.

I have done a fresh install of Windows 10, Updated the Usb drivers.. Disabled some power options in device manager..The ones where is tells you to allow the computer to switch of these devices to save power. I'm really don't know why these devices are reconnecting and was hoping someone might have an idea. Thanks!

MB Gigabyte Z170X gamming 7
CPU 6700k
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card .
Ram Corsair 16GB
Samsung SSD pro Edit:
What do you have for a power supply model/wattage for this system? I've seen this happen on a system of mine that had a weak 5VDC power which measured 4.89VDCI'm missin something...why wouldn't they be re-connecting on re-boot ? ?the USB connection/disconnection sound could be from software that installed with PERIPHERALS. My Corsair K70 keyboard exhibits similar behaviour during login if I installed the included software. I suspect that what happens is the driver loads up, checks if there is a keyboard attached, and then creates a "fake" Windows device for it so that it can communicate with it directly for it's additional features.

Could be the USB card as well...

Quote from: PATIO on March 25, 2017, 04:53:17 PM

I'm missin something...why wouldn't they be re-connecting on re-boot ? ?

Additionally I would think you would want to get a new or used healthy keyboard for it to sell it, that is unless your selling the tower alone without keyboard/mouse and display etc.

Or just get a new keyboard...

Hello guys, need your help. my toshiba laptop always prompted me with bios administrator password everytime it boots, so i cannot use it anymore. i have tried already removing the CMOS battery & still it didn't work. YouTube suggests to locate the jumper/dip switches in the MOTHERBOARD, but i cannot specifically pinpoint their exact location in the motherboard, can somebody help me? You need to take it to an Authorised service center for Toshiba...

Be prepared to show proof of ownership or they will not help you.There are all sorts of methods out there for each model to reset them. I'd do just as patio suggested and work with Toshiba on this.

*Warning: Some methods I have seen used involve shorting/redirectling with jumper wire SIGNALS at boot up and if done wrong you will smoke the motherboard. I cant share any more on this because its unethical and not allowed to share here ways AROUND owner security.Forensic software

Quote from: radluy on July 18, 2017, 03:16:32 AM

Hello guys, need your help. my toshiba laptop always prompted me with bios administrator password everytime it boots, so i cannot use it anymore. i have tried already removing the CMOS battery & still it didn't work. YouTube suggests to locate the jumper/dip switches in the motherboard, but i cannot specifically pinpoint their exact location in the motherboard, can somebody help me?

Bottom line, I think, is "no help with bypassing passwords", isn't it?

Until my new FLAT screen monitor arrives, is there a way I can PLUG my HP laptop into my desktop pc to operate the desktop using the laptop screen?

Am I making myself UNDERSTANDABLE?
No...
Borrow a monitor TIL new 1 arrives...Thanks.

Friend had a monitor in his garage. Borrowed, installed, and working,
KEWL Beans....

Hope the new 1 get's there quick...

Randomly the computer shuts off without warning. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to why it happens or what is causing it. It may or may not be just when it's getting a lot of traffic, because I suppose it happens mostly when I'm gaming. However, I do know there was a time I was only attempting to burn a cd, and it did it as well. No programs running in the background what so ever.

I know a FAIR amount about computers, and so I know the typical NUMBER one problem is usually the PSU. Well, I upgraded that from a 550w, to a 1000w supply. Still happens. I custom built the PC myself, two years ago. It only started doing this, roughly 6+ months ago.

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Processor: AMD A10-6800K APU w/ Radeon HD graphics (4 CPUS) ~4.1GHz
Memory: 8gb RAM
Hard Drive: 1.8 TB
SSD: 111 GB
Display: NVIDIA GeForce GTZ 960 5698 MBCheck your temperatures...How do I go about doing that? A program?

And would temperature be an issue after a YEAR a half or so, then randomly start?

EDIT: I did get a new computer desk, which means a new location on the desk for the PC itself, but for the life of me I can't remember if the time frame of when I got the new desk and when the issue started add up.Try SpeedFan...FreeI'm not sure what I'm looking at here. What's good or bad or what's what.

Currently I have NOTHING extra running besides this browser and Speedfan, and this is what I get.

Fan1: 1945 RPM GPU: 28C
Fan2: 0 RPM Temp1:28C
Fan 3: 0 RPM Temp2: -8C
Fan 4: 0 RPM Temp3: 17C
Fan 5: 0 RPM HD0: 24C
HD1: 25C
Core: 6CLooks good...may not be temps...
However check it under load...IE: gaming whatnot....Alright. I'll try to give that a go as soon as I can. Thank you for the quick replies thus far.

EDIT: So I hooked up my DUAL monitor, to record the second screen with SpeenFan running on it's display, to record while I run some manner of game on the first display.

Just Three Mintues into the game, fullscreen on display 1, the temps read as follows:

Fan1: 3245 RPM GPU: 44C
Fan2: 0 RPM Temp1:30C
Fan 3: 0 RPM Temp2: -8C
Fan 4: 0 RPM Temp3: 68C
Fan 5: 0 RPM HD0: 25C
HD1: 25C
Core: 53CAnytime...you can also DLoad burn and run MemTest...also free... and let it run when you aren't usin the PC...like tonite.
That will eliminate bad RAM as the culprit as well...let it run at least 1 hour.
Any errors at all = bad RAM.I too think this is concerning temperatures. From the similar problems i have had, It leads me to suggest that you should check the cpu gel that goes in between the cpu and the heatsink. Then look for issues with your graphics card. It could be that as well. These were the two issues i have had with my desktop over the years when it comes to 'turning off all of a sudden'. Also, check the fan inside the power supply. And measure power supply temperatures with a real thermometer.
A power supply will shut down when the temperature inside it goes over a certain limit.

A video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKhAEnK0iWg
- skip ads -I'm 100% sure it isn't the PSU. As stated I bought a brand new one, and it literally shut down again the same day. I ran the Ram test for almost 24 hours, and have 0 errors.

As far as the cpu gel goes, I'm afraid I have no clue on that. I did check into my graphics card though, because this beast has two fans on it, that I never see on, however according to what research I did, this is intentional, as they only come on when cooling is needed. The other two fans I have in the case itself, work just fine.

EDIT: As my computer has been on consecutively for the last 24 hours, while running to MemTests and the SpeedFan, I notice this.. my CPU usage is at roughly 77%-82%. (I'm running no other programs at the time of these readings besides the browser and SpeedFan.

Fan1: 3214 RPM.
Fan 2-5: 0 RPM

GPU: 26C
Temp1: 32C
Temp2: -8C
Temp3: 84C (Fire symbol next to it.)
HD0: 24C
HD1: 25C
Core: 71C (Fire symbol next to it.)

The rest indicate a blue arrow pointing down symbol.That core temp is too high for just a browser and speedFan running...i would re-do the thermal paste and/or check to see your cooler is mounted properly...

Thermal Paste Guide...

When using the front 3.5mm audio jack:
when the cable is pushed in all the way I only hear audio out of the right earcup
when its ever so slightly not pushed in I only hear a very FEINT sound out of the left earcup and nothing out of the right

using the back mobo audio port (which is meant for speakers) I get audio out of both earcups but the sound isn't very loud at maximum


I've tested the headphones on my phone etc and they work just fine, they're audio technicas that I've had for ~YEAR and they're in perfect shape
I've also tested the cable
I've also been playing with all the audio settings etc and nothing so far

specs
win 10 pro
asus z170-a pro
using realtek HD audio manager that came with MSI product (open to anything really)


any help is appreciated this is driving me nuts


First of all, the 3.5 mm plug and jack are widely used for a lot of things.

Your headphone or earpiece works find on a smartphone. It was meant for that kind of use. For use on a PC, a variation of the3.5 mm connector is use.
I see this pages:

You can search for "images of 3.5mm headphones" and notice difference in the connectors. SINE are double ring. The PC uses single ring.
I'd say the jack might be messed up. I have an issue with my computer with front jack since I have used the same computer case since 2004 and it acts up occasionally giving me only one ear and not both. I am going to have to replace the front audio jack on my desktop computer to fix this. There have been a couple times that I got up forgetting i had headset on and it got tugged to the side, so working for last 13 years with heavy use and a few accidental tugs is pretty good.

Audio on my headset is usually set to the maximum too which is like 70% loudness from what I would expect for 100%. An easy fix would be to make use of an available USB port to insert a sound card stick into there and use that audio, or get a male/female extension cable and use the rear audio jack to get stereo back to both ears vs mono to one ear. I have also seen people replace computer cases to solve this. Otherwise if your good with reworking electronics, replace the audio jack unsoldering the old one and adding new.Here is a search result for a better set of images:
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=AwrTccdlWm5ZhD4A88InnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTByNWU4cGh1BGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--?p=3.5+Mm+Audio+Jacks+and+Plugs&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

That should make it clear taut you have to have the right connector.
Quote

I've tested the headphones on my phone

• Music Production (ABLETON Live 9, Fl Studio)
• Video Editing (Adobe)
• Photoshop/Illustrator
• Gaming (High Graphics , Steady and nice FPS)
• A bit of Live-Streaming and Recording

• As i've gone around. A Lot of people have been recommending me the Ryzen 1700, Due to its 8 cores being "better" at Streaming + Gaming, and multipurpose actions. So its a battle vs Ryzen 1700 or i7-7700K, which should I put in the build, and why?
• Some people have been saying to remove the 4,2Ghz i7-7700K and the CPU Cooler, and instead get the 3,6Ghz version with Build-In Cooler. Would that be viable, better, or not?
• The MSI Motherboard and MSI Video Card , replace it or keep it? Is there something better, is MSI not that good? (Someone recommended ASUS instead)
• The RAM Included is maybe not the best for the price and I could have better for the same price, some said, What should I Replace it with?
• Is it worth buying the 960 EVO SSD, Or should i go for an Samsung 850 Evo, Or a Crucial MX300?
• Is the HDD Included good or is there something better for the same/lower price with the same Space?
• Is there a cheaper/better option for the Power Supply, or is it good?
• Any Recommendations for the Case?

On trademe (NZ EBAY) there are cheap computers from 2012 with 8 gigs of Ram so I can play Star Citizen and Blender. Or should I spend more and get a more current computer? What make/model laptop is this and how much are they asking?

A laptop with 8GB RAM doesnt take into account what it has for a CPU & GPU or APU with combined Processor & Video. You will want to make sure that the specs of whatever computer you get at least meet all minimum requirements of games you want to play, but its best to have a system that is to the recommended system specs or better.

If this is a high end laptop for 2012 it might be FINE for today, but if it was a lower end laptop for 2012 then its likely the original owner GOT rid of it because its fallen behind the times and slower than they wanted.

I have a laptop from 2009 that has less than 1000 hours on it and is like new, but the GPU is too weak and so it was parked in my attic. I also have a laptop from 2013 and that one is starting to show struggling with games mainly again due to the GPU and I have about 1500 hours of use on that one. I have a laptop I bought in 2017 to replace that one, but running that older one from 2013 as long as I can to get the most of it before it too gets parked in STORAGE. So I'm only getting about 4 years of use out of brand new laptops, but the laptops I buy are higher-low to mid-range GPU specs. So they meet the requirements of games I play when purchased, but fall behind the times as newer games need more and existing games are updated with better graphics making the GPU eventually struggle to keep frame rate at 25fps or faster. When the frame rate is in the 20s its a warning sign that the GPU is starting to lose the battle against evolution of games, and when it drops below 20 fps thats when I park them and get a suitable replacement for $500 or less which will give me 30 fps or better.

A friend of mine bought a high end Toshiba Qosmio for $2000 on sale from the $2400 regular price in 2007 and in 5 years it wasnt able to handle games because the Geforce 7300 GO was too weak. I dont put much money into laptops because they are a losing battle with GPU's as games evolve. Desktop computers at least you can add a video card and stretch the life out of them a little longer and sometimes even longer than that with a CPU upgrade as well. Laptops are meant to be throw aways pretty much when they fall behind software/game evolution. His laptop is this one: https://www.cnet.com/products/toshiba-qosmio-g35-av600/review/ * Some laptops have ability to upgrade video cards, but the upgrade options arent the greatest with them and the cards come at a premium.

Knowing what laptop you have in mind and price tag we can help you to know if its a good purchase or to look for something better.If you don;t care about games as many don't, a laptop can last a long time. I have a Dell Latitude business laptop that I bought refurbished very cheap in 2012, it has a build date sticker of Novermber 2009. I use it as a DLNA server and NAS. Works absolutely fine.The battery still has 70% capacity.
I agree with salmon that if somewhat modern games arent to be played on a laptop you can have them for many years.

I had a Dell C600 600Mhz Pentium 3 that I got for free from a client that used it for 8 years, and I put almost 5 years on it myself upgrading the RAM from 128MB to 384MB and 20GB HDD and adding Windows XP to it, as well as my brother had a C610 that was dead which had a healthy broadcom NIC to add to it to remove the plastic knock out and make the RJ-45 Network jack live. I used it for programming in C++ using Bloodshed Dev C++, because its specs were too weak for Visual Studio Express, and also programmed in Perl on it, as well as used it for an on the road beater laptop that if it ever got stolen or broken no big loss and by use of 120 watt cigarette lighter inverter I could use it out in my car on lunch breaks etc to brain dump code ideas to actual code and pick away at projects etc since I am always thinking of stuff even when doing other things, especially on a slow day at work. It was a rugged little laptop, and the thing that finally killed it was the battery which would only last about 10 minutes after a full charge leaked into inside of the laptop and it ate the traces on the main board killing it. If it wasn't for death by battery acid, I would still have it and use it. I played old games on it as well such as Diablo on it offline.

The laptops that I put into storage, I occasionally bring out for projects such as automation where I don't want to tie up one of my main systems with automation and they can do this using very little electricity compared to a desktop computer as well as its all in one, no need to set up display and keyboard/mouse etc.I wouldn't...oops its ELITE dangerous I want to play, and also use blender

All these look the same to me

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1362899317
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1364772314
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1364760827
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1366173089
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1366285693
the absolute Minimum requirements for that game require a 2Ghz Quad Core and a GTX 260 or ATI Radeon HD 4870. Even if you match that, you'd have to reduce settings, resolution, and other options.

Recommended options are a i7 3770K or better, or an AMD FX 4350 Or better.

None of the systems you listed would even meet the very minimum requirements of the game. They are all Dual Core processors (some faster than others, but quad core is still the minimum requirement). Only the first has a graphcis chipset, and it is slightly worse performance wise than the minimum requirement.

The other options all use Integrated graphics which would be pretty much a no go for games Like Elite, I'd expect.

It is very unlikely (but not impossible) that you could find something in the price range you appear to be aiming for.





I'm thinking of getting a laptop for Blender and later on getting a desktop for Elite dangerous?

What specs should I get for a laptop using Blender?Blender's CUDA rendering in Cycles only supports Nvidia cards for now, so make sure your laptop is using one. AMD cards will need to use OpenCL to render in Cycles, which isn't fully optimized or supported, so go for Nvidia now.

I believe blender can now use system memory (50% afaik) in addition to VRAM in GPU (CUDA) rendering, so you can consider system memory size in addition to VRAM size of your GPU.

Personally I'd rather render using a desktop. I don't know much about your workflow, but if you are not rendering on the laptop itself, it should be fine getting a decent "gaming" laptopSo, is a laptop really needed?
In eneral, good used Desktops costs less taht a used laptop with the same performance. Pat of the cost is the laptop dispaly. Add to taht the cost of the battery.
You can get a used quad-core for about $200 and up. But for gaming, you will have to pay more for a machine that has more memory and a top video card. Expect to pay about $600 and up. Check locally on a place like creig's list. You might find somebody in yoru area taht wants to ger rid of his old game machine.


To summarise he's expecting a 12 year old laptop to run what it wasn't built for...just sayin.Quote from: patio on July 11, 2017, 09:14:50 PM

To summarise he's expecting a 12 year old laptop to run what it wasn't built for...just sayin.

... By the end of 2016, there are at least six different types of space games to fill that void left by Chris Roberts. None of these games will have a $15,000 buy-in option from the developers. They’re all pretty straightforward video game products, where you don’t have to worry about feeling obligated to throw more money at it later on.

On trademe (NZ ebay) there are cheap computers from 2012 with 8 gigs of Ram so I can play Star Citizen and Blender. Or should I spend more and get a more current computer?