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Hi,

It just happened when i plug the WIRE into the sound card port ( green colour port). This never happens but as soon as I plug it in, my computer FROZE and i thought it crashed but than it auto restart again. The monitor just showed no detection. I tried restarting again and wait till everything load and test if its ACTUALLY software but i press window key and u and than i (shortcut for shutdown) it all sound normal except the monitor won't show anything. Does anyone know how i fix this problem. PLZ helpok. can you tell us the make of your computer? Have you tried unplugging the sound card to see if the monitor shows back up. When something happens usually the last thing added it the problem.Its a p4p800. Onboard sound card. BRAND? sounds like a motherboard thing but try to provide as much info as possible.

hi all,

i've come acoss what I think is a Mini-DIN8 Serial Connector but i'd like to find out for definate what it is!

one end has a standard 25pin male serial connection and the other is a round 10 PIN connector with pin number 7 MISSING

(pins are in two rows of 4 and one ROW of 2
pin 7 is the 2ND pin on first row of 4 as below)

*(*)**
****
**

THANKS!

MT23I think it is indeed a mini DIN8 cable... is it possible to upload a pic of it to be sure?

hey ppl i hope you can help me,

i tried overclocking my cpu in the BIOS and when i it the save to cmos and exit it restarted but nothing shows up on the screen but there is no beeping what so eva and i tried resetting the bios and that didnt work please ppl what can i do to get my pc going again??? thankyou. AndrewThe name says it all

"...tried resetting the bios ..." What did you do to reset it?

Alan <>< Perhaps you should hit the INSERT key during boot to load the BIOS fail safe defaults.

NEVER overclock or fiddle with BIOS without knowing how to get system back if it doesn't work!
to reset the bios i took out the battery and i also used the JUMPERS for it to clear it but still nothing...

but i will try to hit the insert button and c if that works.

i got it guys i fixed it myself i left the battery out overnight and that fixed it. thanks anyways guys and now i know never to bugger around with the bios again.

You MIGHT want to consider ABANDONING overclocking as well...Quote from: patio on May 09, 2007, 04:07:26 PM

You might want to consider abandoning overclocking as well...

Trying to put my first box together with some older parts. Motherboard is Abit KT7 with Duron 800. Followed the motherboard manual for all the connections. When I HIT the power on switch the CPU fan spins for half a second and stops. No LEDs or nothing. No power supply fan.
Simple mistake? Did I overlook something easy?? Thanks.
take it from ME !! Double check* all your case wires to the mobo !! make sure the positive / negatives are on the right PIN, ram stick in the ram slot? back-tract everything you did, look at the book and visualize the the power switch wire / led wire double check the neg /pos PLACEMENT...

The mobo book shows the Pin 1 for each of the case connections. The small case connectors didn't indicate anything on the connector aside from a G ((or ground???)) is this the negative?Yes G is negative...in most cases the white wire is usually the hot one but it's not cut in stone...i've seen some strange color schemes when it comes to case wiring.Quote from: PATIO on May 08, 2007, 02:04:04 PM

Yes G is negative...in most cases the white wire is usually the hot one but it's not cut in stone...i've seen some strange color schemes when it comes to case wiring.

Hi Guys,

I just shipped over my desktop PC from Australia to England (not SURE exactly what brand it is, it was custom built for audio, it has an intel processer and is RUNNING Windows XP home edition).

When I got it, I heard a rattle and opened up the case and the large heatsink/fan that sits on top of the processor had come loose (despite packing with lots of protective padding!). I pushed it back in and it works fine along with the fan on the power source, and the fan on the back of the case. But everytime I boot up the computer just loses power all of a sudden around the 30 second mark. It passes its bootup sequence and progresses to the loading Windows XP screen. Thats what happened the first time I turned it on and subsequently it has just got to the 'Safe Mode' STARTUP screen and it cuts out there instead, but always around the same time.

I checked that the mains voltage is virtually the same (240v 50htz in Australia, 230 volts 50htz in England) and my search for similar problems on this forum suggested that often the the fan on the power source doesn't work but mine seems to be running so I'm not sure what the issue is here? The only other relevant piece of information that I can think of is that my computer has SILENT fans as its designed to be in a studio.

Any suggestions or insight? Could the loose heatsink/fan have damaged some of the circuitry or is it an obvious power source issue?

Regards,
HaydenTravel to Arctic Silver's site for instructions on cleaning the heatsink properly and applying thermal paste.
I'm assuming the CPU fan is running correct ? ?
Also while in there make sure to re-seat all add on cards and RAM sticks just to be sure they are seated properly.
Hopefully it's just the unit shutting down from heat which the thermal compound should help.
Other than that if all else fails then borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to SEE if that's the trouble...Quote from: haydenb on October 07, 2007, 03:08:58 PM

Hi Guys,

I just shipped over my desktop PC from Australia to England (not sure exactly what brand it is, it was custom built for audio, it has an intel processer and is running Windows XP home edition).

When I got it, I heard a rattle and opened up the case and the large heatsink/fan that sits on top of the processor had come loose (despite packing with lots of protective padding!). I pushed it back in and it works fine along with the fan on the power source, and the fan on the back of the case. But everytime I boot up the computer just loses power all of a sudden around the 30 second mark. It passes its bootup sequence and progresses to the loading Windows XP screen. Thats what happened the first time I turned it on and subsequently it has just got to the 'Safe Mode' Startup screen and it cuts out there instead, but always around the same time.

I checked that the mains voltage is virtually the same (240v 50htz in Australia, 230 volts 50htz in England) and my search for similar problems on this forum suggested that often the the fan on the power source doesn't work but mine seems to be running so I'm not sure what the issue is here? The only other relevant piece of information that I can think of is that my computer has silent fans as its designed to be in a studio.

Any suggestions or insight? Could the loose heatsink/fan have damaged some of the circuitry or is it an obvious power source issue?

Regards,
Hayden

I have an HP Pavilion Dv6000 notebook PC, operating on Windows Vista Home Premium.
When I first bought this computer I could plug a printer or any device in to it via USB and it would find it and install it fine.

I then tried using a 4-port USB hub for my printer and other object but it didn't work so I removed it and plugged my devices directly into my computer but the computer won't find them and can't install them!

I have tried 3 different printers, have UPDATED USB drivers, tried installing the printer manualy, but nothing has seemed to work!

Please suggest and ideas you have to correct this problem before I toss this computer out my window.... thankyou!!!First...get rid of Vista. That's your biggest problem right there. If at all possible, put XP on it.

Or, try completely UNINSTALLING the printer. uninstall the printer driver, and remove all traces of it from your system. Then try re-installing it with the printer connected to the hub.

If that doesn't work...uninstall the printer again, completely. Then re-install it directly connected to the laptop.

The hub is probably causing some kind of conflict. I personally have a set of portable laptop speakers that will just not work if they're connected through a hub. Even on XP.First thing to check would be to go to Device Manager, and see, if there are any errors under "USB Controllers"Quote

First...get rid of Vista. That's your biggest problem right there. If at all possible, put XP on it.

I just GOT a A8N32-SLI Deluxe to replace my old A8N-SLI motherboard which fried.

But now I'm have a couple problems with the new motherboard, first I'm getting graphics glitches such as dots on the screen starting as soon as I boot and many more glitches when running things like WoW. Second I get a constant buzzing sound if I turn the volume up very loud, I'm guessing it's a drive ISSUE since it goes away if I mute all sound.

Specs:
Processor: AMD Athlon +4200 X2
Motherboard: ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe
GFX Card: BFG 7900GT
OS: Windows XP
2.5gigs ram
WD 160GB HD

EDIT:
I took some screen shots of the graphics issue.
http://pcbin.net/userfiles/Joe/Images/gfxproblem1.JPG
http://pcbin.net/userfiles/Joe/Images/gfxproblem2.JPGHave you tried downloading and re-installing the drivers?

http://www2.bfgtech.com/DriverDownload.aspxI've updated every driver I can think of and I've updated to a newer BIOS, still having the same problems.Did these problems start occurring after you updated the BIOS ? ?It was happening with the BIOS that came installed on the board too.For a change we know a lot about a PROBLEM computer and that is welcom.

Most importantly, though, we do not know the make, model,wattage and age of the power supply.

Was it the same PSU in the previous motherboard arrangement. What exactly happened to that motherboard?the PSU is an Ultra 550 Watt model# is ULT31851, and is about a year old.

My setup is the exact same as it was with the old motherboard.

The old motherboards chipset fan died and ended up taking the chipset with it. It rapidly died over a few days, took multiple attempts to boot up and then stopped booting altogether.Those screenshots don't look too bad to me...the buzzing sound could be interference from a cordlerss phone nearby or another MAJOR appliance.I don't think its an interference issue, if I mute all sound through the volume control panel it goes away, I could be wrong but that I don't think that would happen if it was being caused by interference or hardware feedback would it?

Did you look at the 2nd screenshot, the first one just shows the dots I see during normal web browsing and stuff, the second one is running WoW, the graphics are very messed up in it.I don't play WOW but it still looked decent to me...This http://pcbin.net/userfiles/Joe/Images/normal.JPG is what it's supposed to look like.I guess...

Other than the tint i see no difference.

ok, well to me it looks like everything is being PULLED towards the center of the screen, making it very hard to actually see anything.Check the monitor settings...

Hi
i have a maxtor HD which i bought new not so long ago.
It runs windows and most programs ok but for some REASON with most of my games and other such programs i keep getting an error thats along the lines of saying that the install media/file is corrupt. This has been happening with Brand Brand new games. I thought it was a one off at first, but it kept happening with all my games. so i thought it was my version of windows so i formatted it and installed Vista (as i had also picked up a winantivirus style virus when i reconnected to internet 2 days ago) So with a clean install i thought i wouldnt have any PROBLEMS, but low and behold theres the same error, so i think its the HD rather then windows. And its not just new games either it has effected new games like World in Conflict and old games like Homeworld 2.So, what is the model number of your hard drive?

How old is the COMPUTER?

What is the manufacturer name and model of
the computer?Well the computer is HAND built by myself, and is about 2 months old.
It has an ASUS A8n32-SLI Deluxe motherboard with 2 geforce 8600 graphics cards about 700mb of ram and a AMD athlon duel core 4200 X2 processor and the number for my hd i think is Maxtor 6L080L0 ATA driveMaxtors are known to run hot. I had a 40 GB Maxtor fail a couple of months ago. Have you got any HD temp monitoring software? If the disk is only 2 months old you can get a warranty replacement I should think.

So i bought my new Graphic card, XFX GeForce 8800GTS 320MB. Yes?
Well guess what, there a wire plug in the way for the Graphic card, so the Card cant fit all the way in >-<.
So i was thinking of buying a new Motherboard and Processor..
But what i dont know YET, if the Motherboard will take in the Graphic card..
Motherboard : ASUS M2NPV-MX AM2.
Processor : AMD AT64 X2 5600+ .
Graphic card : XFX Ge Force 8800GTS 320MB.

Thanks.The graphic card you purchased is too big because it's a PCI-Express card...and your current motherboard probably doesn't have a PCI-E slot.

That being the case...it depends on which way you want to go...keep it cheap...and purchase a graphics card that fits your current motherboard...or keep it more expensive and purchase a new motherboard that supports the PCI-E graphics card you just purchased...the decision is yours...

You may want to note...if you go with the latter...expect to purchase more harddware...memory, etc., etc.

Please keep us posted.ive just bought new components after the old system blew up all in £240, as the saviour said you need to change almost everything inside as the sockets change too quick as you have found.

asus m2ne sli
2gb ddr2
amd x264 4400
sapphire 2600 pro 512mb

graphics fit in fine, your new motherboard takes that graphics cardWonderful...No, my mobo does support PCI-E slots, the thing is that my graphic card is big, and a wire stick is blocking the edges of the Graphic card, so therefore i cant push it all the way in..

Sorry for long response time..

And im taking the more expensive side, as i would of upgraded my hardware later on anyways..

Here are my choices so far:
AMD Athlong 64 X2 5600+, AM2 socket,
Antec TruePower Trio 650 EC 650 W Power SUPPLY,
ASUS M2NPV-MX AM2..
PC2 DDR2 5300 RAM..

Im keeping my Disc drive, Harddrive, Floppies ect..


You're right, that board does support PCI-E.

Quote from: Acteh on October 09, 2007, 11:17:54 AM

a wire stick is blocking the edges of the Graphic card, so therefore i cant push it all the way in..

This pic is a different model of my Mobo.

I have a Toshiba 7000CT LAPTOP with corrupted hard drive. I reformated, and tried to install win 2000 but STOP error keeps popping up, also used EDR but says hard drive corrupted. I also have tried used Spotmau but can't get it working.

Is there anyway to REPAIR the corrupted hard drive?nope. can't repair the hard drive if it's bad.

your only choice is to buy a new one.You can try this...Go to start then choose run and type in

CHKDSK

Even BETTER:
CHKDSK /FEven better - www.newegg.com Reformatting the drive should get rid of the corruption...as well as everything on the drive.

I have a HP Pavilion 7955 with XP SP2 Home, 250GB HD, 1GB RAM, it's well maintained, defragged, swept and protected. ANTIVIRUS is now AVG. I seem to have lots of resources and many things seem to operate smoothly but with short periods of FREEZING. It is most evident when I play a simple video game at http://www.fetchfido.co.uk/games/curve_ball/curve_ball.htm where the ball keeps stopping and starting. It makes life on the computer less pleasurable.

I have an integrated graphics card. I am wondering if it's anything to do with that. I have my priorities set to GIVE performance priority (I forget where that setting can be found). Is there something I can do to improve things? I have the maximum RAM that I can install and my HD is not exactly small. My computer speed is 1.5GHz, not the fastest, but no slouch either. I don't use it for anything heavy duty like gaming, though I do seem to max my resources when I do the occasional photo editing.What browser are you using? Try updating your version of Flash.
What spyware protection are you using?
Does this only happen on ONLINE games?
Has it always been like this?
If not, what happened before it started?Hi Calum:

Well, I use the latest version of Firefox. My spyware protection is AdAware Personal SE, Spybot Search and Destroy, Windows Defender, AVG Anti-Spyware, and Spyware Blaster. I update and scan regularly. If it's spyware, none of them have found it.

It happens in all programs, though, for obvious reasons, it is very graphically clear when playing an on-line game which should have smooth, steady movement. For example, as I type this looking at the keyboard I look up every so often and see I have characters missing as though I missed typing them, but it is because there was a momentary freeze as I hit the letter(s).

Frankly it has been like this for many months and I can't pinpoint any event that seemed to precede it, sorry. I will look to update the Flash to the latest version, but I may have to ask you how to go about that, if I can't figure it out.

I updated my Adobe Flash and it seems to have cured the jerkiness as evidenced by the game I mentioned above. I was already on the current version 9, although I was on a slightly earlier iteration of it.

Thanks for your response, Calum. At this point it seems to have done the trick.Correction. Not cured. As before, it seems to come and go, usually there freezing more often than not. So, I'm still scratching my head. Travel Here

Hope this helps...Thanks patio. That looks to be straightforward. However, can you confirm that the idea is ti uninstall the Flash player then reinstall it? The site just covers how to uninstall it.Yes that is correct...the tool listed just does a more thourough un-install then just using Add/Remove....Well, patio, I downloaded the Flash uninstaller, but it absolutely refused to install, even in Safe Mode. So, I simply uninstalled the programme using the Remove Programmes facility in XP, then downlaoded and reinstalled it. At first blush the jerky motion has all but disppaeared. Sadly it seems to do that, then quickly return. I'll just have to see if my improvement lasts.

Thanks again for persevering with me, patio.I don't believe it actually installs...it's just a script that runs.

Probably went by so fast you didn't see it.

Good Luck and let us know.

I have now managed to switch to my other video card, and when I start up Serious Sam 2, I can now here it playing. But I don't SEE anything, when I OPEN up any window, such as my dialup connection, it isn't visible, and when I minimize it, and bring it back from the taskbar I can see that it moves to the RIGHT side of my screen, entirely off. And left INVISIBLE. What can I do to fix this?What resolution are you using?And one thread per issue is SUFFICIENT...

Hi.

Recently (the last time I tried was about 2 months ago) games which require CDs have not been working. Once I click on the app the "CD Loading" CURSER appears but then there's the XP error sound "der!" with no error message whatsoever. Trying over and over brings the same results.

Audio CDs still play and game from CDs still install. Although I have noticed that 1) iTunes no longer recognises a NEW CD (unless it was inserted on iTunes start up) 2) When clicking on My Computer a new CD in the the D DRIVE is also not recognised.

Any help would be great. Oh it's a NEC DVD 3530a drive.

Thanks.



How old is the drive ? ?It sounds like the optics are getting ready to fail...

To verify this install it in a known working machine to see if the condition persists. If it does it's time for a new drive.Thanks for the speedy reply, Patio.

The drive is only 1 and a half years old. I don't use it too often.

It's gonna be quite a struggle for me to try the drive in another machine. Is there any chance something may have been deleted from my windows system folder? I had a "system OPTIMIZER" program a month or so ago which may have deleted files.

I've also noticed that WMP crashes when I try to play a dvd...To repair any missing system files go to Start / Run and type in sfc /scannow and hit Enter.

Note there is a space between sfc and /

Have your XP CD handy as it will ask for it.

Let it run to completion...do not interrupt it.

Re-boot and see if things improve.

Hi! I would like to INSTALL windows xp home media on a hard drive that had a previous version of xp pro..I have previously tried to install this version(home media) on this hard drive.Everything was working except that at start up it would ask me what program i wanted to start with...XP Pro or Home media..it had the otion of going into pro twice in the options choice..if i was not there to choose home media it would try to go in the XP Pro after 30 seconds or something and it would just jam up...This hard drive is a SATA drive 160 GB western digital..Hope u have enough info to help me... LarryIt sounds like you have one installation of Media center on there along with 2 installations of XP...

To confirm this OPEN up Windows Explorer and see how many Windows directories you have and how they are listed.

The best approach would be a full format of that HDD and a clean install of Media center...

Start considering what data you need backed up as it will all be gone after a full format.

Let us know.how do u suggest i format the hard drive? putting this hdd as a slave in another COMPUTER and format with xp or use some kind of dos program like fdisk ...I athought i had already formatted when i installed the home media.No I don't have a version of windows xp anymore on the drive ,i looked with explorer.I think there must be something i am doing wrong when i format or something.Could someone explain to me how to format a hdd correctly,what program to use...where to get it...THANKS again, LarryDo you have a floppy drive on this computer?yes i do have a floppy driveThen go to www.bootdisk.com and download a file and format
the complete drive.

You can all use kill disk to do a low level format.

http://www.killdisk.com/The Windows disk will do it as well. Just choose to format the drive during installation.

Hi guys, i just discovered that my graphics card is at 90 degrees . holy sh!t... i dont know why

my CPU is at 45-50C i dont know why my gfx card is so high

i havnt been playing any games recently and its so high temperature

just then i installed the latest catalyst driver

but i dont know what else to do

thanks in advance

p.s ive had this comp+gfx card for almost 4 years now.. this is the FIRST time this is happening..

this is an image of what is happening to my poor SCREEN!!!


Hi,

OK, thats not a good sign!

Have you checked that the fan is still working on the card when the computer is on?

Made any other hardware changes recently?I downloaded ATiTool and i set the fan to 100% (and the fan actually does work)

and yeah =\ well my screen is normal now... no more weird stuff.. but the gfx card is still 85-90 degrees!

How filthy is your computer...dust-wise

to answer Carbon Dudeoxide's question ... um i open up the side of the tower .. and i think it is abit dusty in there but i dont know how to clean it... ive tried vaccum but i got told that, that is very BAD idea.
i was thinking about using a wet cloth to clean but i think that is also a bad idea..

how do i a clean my gfx card from dust??

tyNo... please don't use a vacuum or a wet cloth, both are a very bad idea.

Compressed air would work best to clean it if you can get a hold of a can of that?Quote

just then i installed the latest catalyst driver

Insert Quote
Hi guys, i just discovered that my graphics card is at 90 degrees . holy sh!t... i dont know why

Hey, when I tried to play serious Sam 2 I got this error:

Fatal Error: Cannot Set Display Mode
GfxAPI error:
Direct3D: Missing support for cube-map textures

What do I need to do to correct this?

If it has to do with my video card, I've got a Radeon ATI 9250. Or so the box says.duval.67
Have a read, this MAY be the problem.
http://forums.seriouszone.com/archive/index.php/t-44496.html


dl65 So my card is too old? That kinda sucks. I just got it:(. At the MOMENT I'm downloading a new driver for it, could that solve the problem?You didn't SAY what card was in there, but if the hardware doesn't support it, the driver is irrelevant.New thing I just found out. When I go to look at what card is set as my primary, it is my old ONE. That could be the problem, right? When i try to change it so my new card is the primary, it always changes itself back to the other one. How do I set the card I want as my primary card??Quote from: GX1_Man on May 12, 2007, 02:40:26 PM

You didn't say what card was in there

This is the second GO round - I realized that my previous description of the problem was inadequate.

I have an Acer TravelMate 2410 laptop with a cracked screen - the left third of the screen is useable, but the rest is not. I've been using a ViewSonic VE150 as an external monitor for the last year with no problems. Now, when I boot the system, I get the error message "Out of Range 23Hz/18KHz". This is after I get the Acer splash screen and the Windows XP boot up splash screen during startup. The VE150 drivers are correctly installed.

On the settings box, I can apply the check box to extend the DESKTOP to the external monitor successfully, but when I check the "Use this DEVICE as the primary monitor" box, the Viewsonic goes black.

Video card in the laptop is Mobile Intel(R) 915GM/GMS,910GML Express Chipset, 128 Mb, Intel Video BIOS.

The Acer email tech said “For this error message try booting to Safe Mode and make sure the display resolution is set for 1280x1024 and set the refresh rate to 75Hz.” I tried this, but it didn’t work. While in Safe Mode, the external monitor came up as it should. Several others have made different suggestions about resolution and refresh rate, but nothing has worked. I've been into the device manager and the only strange issue is that there are duplicate entries for the video card, the laptop monitor, and the external monitor. I have yet to try and change any registry settings.

Any ideas???
__________________Have you made any changes to your BIOS.
I would check it if I was you.
Thats all I know about this problem.

Jonas If he hasn't played about in the BIOS, now is not the TIME to start. How about removing the monitor entries in Control Panel and then restart Windows?Quote from: GX1_Man on May 12, 2007, 09:25:18 AM

If he hasn't played about in the BIOS, now is not the time to start.

Hey

My computer is running at 60 degrees C when its pretty much idle.
When I try to install something or work it to much it will jump to 70, and I'm believing this is what is causing it to shutdown.

I have one 120mm intake fan on the side, and on outtake in the back..is this really not enough to keep my computer cool?

Thanks Tell us more about your hardware components. What all do you have in there? Have you ever removed the heatsink from the CPU? If so, did you remove the old thermal compound and apply a new layer of thermal compound to the processor before remounting the heatsink? Do you periodically clean dust out of it? Is air flow obstructed from getting into the computer by surrounding objects? Ive got a similar problem. what kind of computer do you have?

Are your fans running properly? How about dust? it can get very dusty if the computer is over a year old. Clearing out the fans and heatsinks can drastically cool your system. Also have you added any new hardware recently like hard DRIVES or a new gfix card? perhaps a new power source?

mine is a dell dimension 8400 and I am probably GOING to move the GUTS to a new case to improve airflow. My case now (the one it came with from dell) doesnt have a spot for a front fan and only has a 92mm rear fan. I am going to buy a new case that has a front 80mm and a rear 120mm so air can get in and out more efficiently and the heat will go with it. I'm not suggesting you do this, just saying this is what I plan on doing.

Here is a link to a program called "SpeedFan" it will tell you various temperatures like ambient/local/hd0/hd1 and depending on your motherboard may be able to set/change your fan speed
http://www.almico.com/speedfan.phpSystem:
Pentium 4 3.2 GHz
GPU:7600gt
RAM:1gig
MB:P5N-E SLI
Rosewill 550w



Its a new computer I just built. I made sure that there was enough thermal compound and what not. There is no dust, considering I just built it Are you overclocking components?negativeRight now I am installing WoW, and I can just see the temps sky rocket.last thing i can think of is connections between the processor and its heatsink. sure you put enough paste on it? maybe the case is too small?

Also is svchost.exe taking up a lot of memory all the TIME? if you just built the compy its likely that you havent yet installed the updates. there was a memory leak in windows updater a while back that was fixed with a patch later on. When i reformatted and re-updated my computer ran veryhot because svchost was always taking up like 99% of the resources for a long period of time. if this is the problem jsut let windows update run overnight and eventually it will finish upgrading and the leak will be fixed.I found that fans inside the case will not much affect the CPU temp, as that is the job of the CPU fan.

I bought a lot of fans in the hope to lower my CPU temp but it did nothing of the sort, well we all learn from our mistakes

Perhaps you got a cheap CPU with a bad fan/heatsink?Trust me, the case is huge
Perhaps... is it possible I put too much thermal paste?Perhaps you should read a good reference such as How To Correctly Apply Thermal Grease and re-apply the thermal paste.Too much is as bad as not enough.

A self assembled PC would be cheaper and you can get exactly what you want, but it's not a good idea UNLESS you are CONFIDENT with what you're doing.
It won't WORK out cheaper if you fry every COMPONENT through not knowing what you're doing.My cousin has a like 10 self assembled computers, he is like a pro at that.

Anyways, we don't suggest you build a computer yourself if you don't know what each part does and how they FIT in the computer.
Buying a computer from the shop may be more expensive but it would be worth it.

Cheers everyone.
I want to move my dell dim 8400's guts into a new, preferrably alluminum and with front fan, case. I looked on newegg but I dont know if my motherboard for instance will fit. Anyone have suggestions on how to know what will fit in what case? (mini tower/mid tower/big tower) My computer as i SAID is a dell DIMENSION 8400, will it fit in say this case?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119077You could just open up your computer and measure it yourself.

I believe Newegg usually lists dimensions for their parts.Since it is designed to accomodate both ATX and mini-ATX the MBoard fit should be no problem....where you might run into a dilemna is the PSU. Dell's are propietary so measure yours carefully and check the new case's specs for the PSU housing.uh oh... what is a psu? Sorry...Power Supply Unit.Quote from: CBMatt on May 10, 2007, 08:17:07 AM

You could just open up your computer and measure it yourself.

I believe Newegg usually lists dimensions for their parts.

Quote from: CBMatt on May 10, 2007, 08:17:07 AM

You could just open up your computer and measure it yourself.

I believe Newegg usually lists dimensions for their parts.

newegg doesnt givethe dimensions of distances between the screws and such.

Basically what it said on the opening message, HOPING to make the switch up to a SATA HDD, but got it all connected, "felt ACTION inside the drive" so I know its working, but alas, nowt. Any ideas?

DazzaThe drivers need to be installed before it will be recognised...
What flavor of Windows is this ? ?
Did you recieve a driver CD with the drive ? ?
You left out some important details so far...Drivers for a HARD drive?? I've never heard of such a thing... windows should automatically pick it up.

Is the hard drive detected in BIOS?Quote from: RankenTech on October 09, 2007, 09:57:38 PM

Drivers for a hard drive?? I've never heard of such a thing... windows should automatically pick it up.

Is the hard drive detected in BIOS?

i upgrade my laptop to windows vista, after it restarts a blue screen appears. From then it wont let me get into windows. So what i did is try to boot vista in a dvd drive but it DOESNT boot so i try with a window xp cd and it doesnt boot. What can i do at this point if i cant get into windows? Bios setting seems to be correct in the boot device, but maybe my dvd wont boot?Some details about the laptopwould be helpful. Is that a real Microsoft CD? Does the drive appear to ACCESSING the disc when it is in there?Is that a real/ "purchased" Microsoft CD


*********************************************
************Crickets*****************
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****************** QUOTE from: GX1_Man on May 11, 2007, 05:21:49 AM

Some details about the laptopwould be helpful. Is that a real Microsoft CD? Does the drive appear to accessing the disc when it is in there?

My secondary hard drive is a 250G Maxtor on an XP system. It works fine unless I try to copy a file over 4G to it. It has 50G left on it, but I get an insufficient space error message. I have the CD for it. How can I fix this without reformatting? Thanks - Gosto
make sure its formatted to ntfs instead of fat32I was going to ask what file system is used on it but the fact you have used it prior to this SUGGESTS its the same although, can't HURT to ask.... is it a FAT file system or NTFS on your primary & secondary?
Quote from: chad5414 on May 11, 2007, 09:55:38 AM

make sure its formatted to ntfs instead of fat32

I am trying to re-install Windows 2000 from a CD. I have changed the BIOS to boot from the CD first, but it STILL goes straight to the hard drive. The BIOS probably needs to be updated but that will be impossible with this problem. Any ideas? Would changing the IDE configuration help? There is nothing on the computer that I need; I clean reinstall will be fine. Thanks. At some POINT of booting from CD, there is a message:
"Press any key to boot from CD". Do you do this?I never see the "press any key..." message.
Then, you have to go back to BIOS, and re-check your settings.
The above message must show in order to boot from CD.Which BIOS settings will have a bearing on the boot order, aside from the boot menu? I have a Phoenix BIOS.OK, first of all...you sure, your CD drive is in working condition?
Secondly, can you still boot to Windows, but you have some reason to reinstall. If so, what reason? Or, you can't boot to Windows?Good questions. The computer had Windows 98, so I installed Windows 2000 with a CD. I did the automatic route and let the CD do it all. Bad choice. Windows 2000 installed but KEPT a password from Windows 98 that I don't know, and so I can't LOG onto Windows 2000. I reset the administrator and user passwords in the BIOS, and that lets me get to the setup area with F2. The computer goes through the POST stuff, and I can get to the BIOS and safe mode. In safe mode and regular mode, however, the computer wants a password. I want to reinstall 2000 but this time I will make the choices. (I did the same thing recently on another computer, but made the installation choices myself and had no problems with old passwords.) I've checked that various connections inside the tower are secure. THANK you.How about booting from a floppy (bootdisk). You can format/fdisk from there.Quote

Good questions. The computer had Windows 98, so I installed Windows 2000 with a CD. I did the automatic route and let the CD do it all. Bad choice. Windows 2000 installed but kept a password from Windows 98 that I don't know, and so I can't log onto Windows 2000.

Ok, i went and bought a new Aspire case, an MSI motherboard, socket 775 Intel 3.2 ghz processor, DVD Burner, Maxtor 200 gig hd, the BOARD has onboard video and sound....i hook it all up only to get a message on the monitor telling me insert bootable media and restart comp...which is all good but my dvd drive will not open as long as the ide CABLE is plugged into it....same for the hd, wont work with the ide plugged in , i have changed cables numerous times... But anyway besides that, the comp powers itself off after 10 seconds everytime no matter what i do. Im about ready to THROW it through a window, o if it helps any it has a stick of 512mb ddr2 memory...any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank You,

ChadWelcome to the forum. Let's see if we can get some momentum GOING on your question.

So, you installed the motherboard and processor or was this a barebones package with those components already installed? Exactly what brand and MODEL memory did you get? Are you getting beeps when you turn on the power? Describe them. What power supply did you get? Hey, thanks for responding, what i had bought was an Aspire bare case that came with only a 450 watt power supply...I bought the motherboard, processor, memory, hard drive and all that seperate. Anyway....i got it working last night...all it was was the IDE cables needed replacing . Been running great since. Thanks Again.Sometimes soybean is just that good ! !

I want to buy a replacement HDD, though I dont know how to check compatability... Basically, I know that my COMPUTER has this:


I have no idea how to type that out, or how to search for it. Is there a term that defines what I have(see above pic)?

Im sure there would be some kind of compatability issue with more new HDDs, so Im trying to avoid that issue I'll be glad to hear any assistance from anyone!

-NavilusThe smaller white one with 4 connectors is called a Molex plug...it supplies the power to HARD drives, CD Rom drives etc.

The bottom example is an IDE CABLE...basically carries the data from the devices mentioned above to the Motherboard for processing.Thank you -- buying an IDE HD would be fitting then! I hope!... Yes, and they are relatively easy to install and prepare for use so let us know when it's time and we'll walk you your FIRST SURGERY...

By the way Welcome Aboard.

Hello,

My old computer is 6 years-old Microsoft XP, and its still running good, but the computer is making weird NOISES for the past few months. They are hamering like HUMMING noises, some times loud. Everest says every thing is working but the drive is past its age limit (can't remember exact wording). So how do I transfer the existing O/S to a new HDD or do I have to set up from formatting the new HDD. The computer is a Tiny and runs at 700Mhz, Penium II was origanaly Win98. PETER.
as far as i know, you cant transfer it. install the hdd with fresh os.Wrong.

With the new HDD install it as a slave drive...
If you recieve a utility CD with the HDD they have a tool for "cloning" the old drive to the new one.
If you don't get one VISIT the drive manuf. site and DLoad them.
It will allow you to create a bootable CD with all the utilities...just follow the directions.
Then it's as simple as booting with the CD in and running the operation.
After finishing shut down.
Remove the old drive and set the new one as master and hook it up to the end connector of the IDE cable.
Re-boot and voila all your data programs and the OS are there.
You can then format the old drive...install it as a slave and use it for storage.
Any questions on the procedure...let us know.Thanks Patio I thought it was possible. I will visit the manufactures site for the soft ware and let you know. Kuszmania9999 hope you leared some thing. Quote from: kuszmania9999 on October 09, 2007, 08:47:02 AM

as far as i know, you cant transfer it. install the hdd with fresh os.

Quote from: kuszmania9999 on October 09, 2007, 08:47:02 AM

as far as i know, you cant transfer it. install the hdd with fresh os.

If you clone the OS to the HD but use the HD on a different computer, it won't work because you would need to install all the drivers and everything for the other computer.

Whats the bulky thing you sometimes get on USB cables in the photo just before the end. Is it important? I noticed only expensive items seem to have them (laptop adapter, digital camera cable, etc). The one in the photo is for my camera - I was thinking of USING a retractable cable without that - Is that risk? What does it do?

[cleaning up - ATTACHMENT deleted by admin]That bulky thing is magnetic and makes sure that you don't have a bat contact.
It has to do with the magnetic field.
If it is a NEW cable its isn't really necessary but if I was you I would keep it.
I just learned it in school.
I can only give you the complete explanation in Dutch since my English isn't that good.maybe it shields the cable Quote from: surrey100 on May 10, 2007, 01:37:49 PM

Whats the bulky thing you sometimes get on USB cables in the photo just before the end. Is it important? I noticed only expensive items seem to have them (laptop adapter, digital camera cable, etc). The one in the photo is for my camera - I was thinking of using a retractable cable without that - Is that risk? What does it do?

I would have never guessed, thanks WillyW......

I'd call it a choke, but I'm old.

I got a problem before about the built-in LANcard. After installing the OS and look up for the Local Area Connection in the My Network Places, I noticed that there's no Local Area Connection. After installing the driver, luckily the Local Area Connection was there.

So my question is:
Why from other computers after installing the OS the Local Area Connection is there then however in my computer the Local Area Connection only appeared after I installed the driver?Anyone can explain?Because without that driver, the computer has no idea that NIC exists. MAYBE in previous installs, Windows automatically picked up the driver.Quote from: SHENGTON on October 09, 2007, 08:40:28 AM

Why from other computers after installing the OS the Local Area Connection is there then however in my computer the Local Area Connection only appeared after I installed the driver?

I have made some songs on MIDI software, and i now want to put them on a CD. I cannot make them WAVE because the quality is too poor. I have BURNT CDs before but when I try to burn my MIDI songs to an empty CD, i get this message:



I went to the icon and it doesn't have any media usage rights...is this the problem or is it the file type? If so, how can i get the media usage rights?

I would really aprecciate it if somebody could tell me how i can burn these songs, or how i can turn them into MP3 songs, I tried changing the file EXTENSION to .mp3 and nothing really happened.

ThanksMidi to MP3 converters...freethanks!

What do you need microphone for?i found out i dont, i just saw the word "record" and got scared =\LOL ahh, it turns out none that none of those converters will let you record and save a whole song for free, and all of them lose quality...isnt there any other WAY of getting my midi songs onto my CD?As I found out here: http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/knowledgecenter/mediaadvice/0062.mspx
Quote

You can't burn Musical Instrument Digital Interface (MIDI) files in Windows Media Player. Instead, you must use the CD Writing Wizard in Windows. Note that MIDI files can only be burned to a data CD, which places copies of the files on the CD. Most CD players will not be able to play a data CD that contains MIDI files. You may need to SEARCH the Internet to find software that will convert MIDI files to a file format that most CD players can play.

Yes Nero has a converter. I like Nero!

please healp me how to reboot the hard DISK...Welcome to the CH forums.

Please READ this then give us the INFO and tell us what you mean by 'reboot the hard disk".

THANKS

heu guys , just got a new pc i tried to install windows in the ussual procedure starting fm bios i made the cd first in PRIORITY after i saved and exit , then i restarted pc and showed me thebios menu with 2 options continue and set up so i put the win cd in DRIVE press continue and then shows the black screen with the space sign that goes on and off but it doesnt boot fm cd , im desperate if anybody got any idea pls help ..btw bios is PHOENIX, thnx in advence all who WILLING to help is your cd working?
The CD should already be in before you power up...
You MAY also see a prompt stating Press any key to boot from CD...

I'm Using an AMD 6000+ on an Asus M2n-Mx Se Plus mobo, 2gb OCZ Ram, 160gb SATA HDD, XFX GeForce 8500 GT 512 ddr2 PCIe video card, 450 watt power supply. Any game i run freezes for about 5-10 seconds every minute or so. i've ruled out the RAM and the Video Card. any thoughts??Check your game settings...and disable anti-aliasing. See if this corrects the problem.its been offWhat exactly have you done to rule out RAM and the video card?

Specifically what games are you having this problem with? What games do you play? ("all games" doesn't help much)I suspect the card...it'll be interesting to see how exactly it was ruled out as a suspect.i have onboard video so i took it out and tried thati have another computer with the same type of RAM so i switched them out. right now the only ones i'm playing are AOE 3 and OblivionYou may have overheating issues! What windows is this?windows XP, i've got a water cooler on it which STAYS about 35C idleQuote from: mgaylor23 on May 31, 2008, 01:57:10 PM

i have onboard video so i took it out and tried that

Hiya all,

New to the forum - be nice!

My pc does not omit any sound whatsoever, GAMES, cds, mp3s etc etc. This has happened before, and I believe that WHOEVER fixed it (when it was under warranty) merely told a family member over the phone to do something involving the audio codecs or driver.

My system is a Packard Bell, dual core @ 1.8, principle audio device 'Realtek HD Audio output' and driver 'RtkHDAud', DirectX 9.0c. Listed under 'Sound, video and game controllers' in device manager is 'Audio Codecs', 'Legacy Audio Drivers', 'Media Control Devices' and 'Realtek High Definition Audio'. Don't REALLY know if any of this helps.

HELP PLEASE!!!Do you get any system sounds? Things like the windows song when you start or shut down your system.

Have you installed anything new? When was the last time you had sound?

Hello!

Are your systems updated?
And, also like what Spolier said, any changes you've done LATELY?


No system sounds, no sound of any description at any time through speakers, headphones, other monitors - nada.

No massive changes at all, occasionnal scan for viruses but that has never caused issues before.What does Device Manager say about sound? Any errors?nobody has asked the obvious yet so i will...

are your speakers on? are they plugged in? are they plugged into the correct jacks? did you MUTE the sound on your computer accidentally?

Hi,
I have a intel Core 2 duo E6600. With a Nforce 780i motherboard (triple SLI). And a Geforce 9600 graphics card. 1GB ram.
Currently I have a 450w power supply.

Because I want triple SLI, I need more power. So I found these.
http://www.misco.co.uk/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=293034&Tab=0&NoMapp=0
http://www.misco.co.uk/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=275585&Tab=0&NoMapp=0

Other than the price, noise and that one is more EE (Energy Efficient). I can't tell what MAKES one better.

I don't want to buy the cheaper one if it's worst, but I don't wont to waste money.

So can someone please help me, by telling me the difference and why one cost's more They're both very nice power supplies. I think Cooler Master might be a little better known brand, but that Ultra one is still nice as well.1000 watt to me is over kill . Coolmaster is good but as far as quality i would suggest ANTEC anything in the 600 - to 650 watt range.Everybody of course has their own prefrance when it comes to hardware.corsair makes really great PSU's i highly recommend them. what model of video card are you buying? it cannot be the 9600gt, as the 9600gt does not support 3-way SLI.what graphics's card do support triple SLI

anything that can handle triple SLI for under £150 (pounds UK) is the power supply I want.

Thanks

8800 ultra, 8800gtx, and 9800gtx all support 3-way SLI. i dont know why you wish to go SLI never mind 3-way SLI. the performance increase is not worth the price you pay for a second or third card. if you have the money and dont CARE too much about price:performance, then by all means go for it.

regarding the power supply, i, personally, would purchase the corsair 1000HX.Thanks HommerI am far from an expert, but I have learned a few things. The power supply is not a place to skimp. A good 600 watt ps would be a better buy than a cheap 1000 watt ps.

I would stick to name brans such as the Coolmaster. Enermax, Seasonic, and Corsair are a few good brand names.

I agree with homer on the sli. It can be a headache, and the extra card restrict AIRFLOW and cause more heat so KEEP that in mind. I bought an ultra 350 watt psu about 2 years ago and knock on wood I've never had any problems with it I think I paid about $40 or more on it.

My system is visionman SS300-Tsocket 775 Gamer; intel pent 4 530 3.0GHz;512mb DDR400; 80GB SATA HDD; running Windows XP Home.
I just erased my hard drive I was haveing som many problems with virus etc.. that I just wanted to start over and EVERYTHING else would not WORK to get it clean. But KNOW that I did that and try to reboot to start reinstalling I cannot not get past even the first screen of bootup it will just be a blank screen with a blinking cursor. I have tried REMOVING the battery from the mobo and then restarting the CMOS but still no CHANGE. Please help I do realize I need more memory etc, and a new HDD but for now I just want to see if I can get this system working again before the virus attack.

ThanksAre you booting from the Windows CD?

Is your CD drive set at the first boot device in the BIOS?Yes it is the first to boot in BIOS but it wont even get to that point to boot from any drive. Yes I am trying from a Windows CD. I was wondering did i fry my motherboard which is M957G(v1.0) PCChips board.It sounds to me like it's skipping the CD drive in the boot process.

1. Make sure a bootable CD is in the drive. If there's no CD in the drive, it will go to the next boot option.
2. Make sure the BIOS is set to boot from CD.
3. Check all cables. If it can't find the CD drive, it will go to the next boot option.
4. Make sure drive jumper positions are all correct.If you are loading Windows XP onto a computer with a serial ATA (SATA) hard drive, you will have to manually load the SATA drivers.

Hopefully you have the SATA drivers available on a floppy...

Then, boot system by Windows XP installation CD, when the message "Press F6 if you need to install a third party SCSI or RAID driver" shows up, press "F6". Then, press "S" to specify additional device when next screen pops up. Put the driver floppy disk in and press enter to continue. You will then be asked to select the driver. Then select "VIA Serial ATA RAID Controller(Windows XP)".) After the SATA driver loads and Windows XP can recognize the SATA HDD, you can continue to install Windows XP as usual.
I could not get it to read my main drive but it would my cd writer and I have started loading windows so hopefully this will continue to work and I can get back to work. Thank you for all the help!! This site was the only one that actually anwered me and helped me out. If I have any more questions I will be back.
Thanks again!!!It must see your CD writer as the main drive, depending on the jumpers and cable, which would show my theory was correct . It couldn't find the CD where it wanted it and therefore skipped the CD drive and went on to the hard drive, hence why you were just seeing the cursor.

Glad you got it sorted though, let us know if you have any more problems get Windows set up again.

[EMAIL]last week I got a 250GB hard drive from a neighbor so I wanted to see if it works.My computer has 2 hard drives in it .It came with one that has windows XP a few years back a friend installed a 20 GB hard drive as a slave drive which still had old files and pictures on it.To see if this other hard drive works that I just got I unplug drive F and plug in the new used one it worked as a slave .So then I wanted to see if it worked as a master so I unplug the master and plug the slave as master it didn't"t work.Which was fine to me. Well then I want to see if my hard drive F would work as a master when I turned it on win 98 came up I think in safe mode.well I shut down put it all back the way it was and now drive F is gone and empty can anyone help we had years of pictures and files on there are they lost forever email me at ******

Email address removed for security reasonsPut everthing back in [Hard drives] the way they were before you put in the used one] Go into BIOS & check to see what is recognised, if recognised make any changes as far as boot order.# 2 you also if not succesfull only use the OS hard drive & do the same in bios. Make sure you have your jumper settings correct. GOOD LUCK LET know resultswell I put everything back the way it was it still shows the hard drive F but it looks like an empty drive my c drive is NTFS D is Fat 32 and ffile system not available and it keep asking me to format which I havn't just incase I can RECOVER the files on it I don't know what to do helpppppppp! I don't know what file system it had beforeQuote from: xavier on June 01, 2008, 12:36:29 PM

Put everthing back in [Hard drives] the way they were before you put in the used one] Go into BIOS & check to see what is recognised, if recognised make any changes as far as boot order.# 2 you also if not succesfull only use the OS hard drive & do the same in bios. Make sure you have your jumper settings correct. GOOD LUCK LET know results

well I put everything back the way it was it still shows the hard drive F but it looks like an empty drive my c drive is NTFS D is Fat 32 and ffile system not available and it keep asking me to format which I havn't just incase I can recover the files on it I don't know what to do helpppppppp! I don't know what file system it had beforeuote]

i have micron Computer with hard Hdsk 20G & running WINDOW xp special edition & some body gave me 80G to enlarge my hard DISK space .While i try to connect it as slave it not work.
So how can i use this hard Disk with my computer i wanna to have 100G hard disk.
thanks a lot
From EthiopiaIs the drive formatted ? ?
What brand of drive ?
Most manuf. of hard drives have Free utilities at their websites.
These can be USED to prepare the drive for use.
You can also use the "CLONE" utility included to clone the 20G to the 80G which may be a faster drive and once everything is running properly then format the 20G and use it as a storage slave device...Quote

So how can i use this hard Disk with my computer i wanna to have 100G hard disk.

Is the drive formatted ? ?
What brand of drive ?
Most manuf. of hard drives have Free utilities at their websites.
These can be used to prepare the drive for use.
You can also use the "clone" utility included to clone the 20G to the 80G which may be a faster drive and once everything is running properly then format the 20G and use it as a storage slave device...

Sir I just wanna ask, why did you say that the 80g is faster than 20g hard disk

You can also use the "clone" utility included to clone the 20G to the 80G which may be a faster drive and once everything is running properly then format the 20G and use it as a storage slave device...

I have a pretty old pc that has 384mb or RAM 3x128mb, i found a 512mb stick i aint using so i decided to replace one of the 128mb ones. But now when i CHECK on my pc it only sees the 512mb instead of the 768mb.Quote from: darkhunter on June 01, 2008, 05:27:43 PM

I have a pretty old pc

Awhile ago, my house had a power surge and my computer burned out. After attempting reboot, everything seemed fine but the monitor would not get a signal. I talked to the support website for my motherboard, described my problem and they came to the conclusion that the motherboard was the problem.

A week later, my new motherboard arrives, I try booting and have the same problem. I ask the website again and they now believe that the RAM is the problem, I replace both sticks of RAM with two new sticks, try booting and have the same result (I have tried booting with each stick one at a time, no difference)

Next I try replacing the video card, after booting with all new components, I am still getting the same result.

Finally I replace the power supply, assuming that is the only thing left that can be a problem, and still the same thing, no signal.

I am very annoyed with this problem, I was wondering if anyone had any idea on a solution? I have tried resetting the CMOS which didn't help either. I am also 100% sure that all components are seated correctly and all power connections are secure.

Thanks,
MrTwig

Edit: I forgot to say that I tried 3 different monitors each time I replaced a component, just to be sure.Are you getting any beeps when booting?I don't think so.

There is something similar to a beep but I think it is the hard drive booting.Hard drives don't beep.

But if it's just a single beep, that's a normal POST beep indicating everything is ok.

Do you see the BIOS screen or anything when you turn it on or does the screen just remain black?Yeah, there is no beep.

Also the screen is entirely black, a message pops up that says No Signal and then the monitor goes into sleep modethere could be a problem on your mother board sence it does not give any beep. try to remove the memory if its give a simultaneos beepPost your system specs.
Try the onboard video.I'd also try a different monitor...

The problem may not lie within the confines of your computer, but the monitor. Power surges don't just affect the computer...they affect other peripherals, as well.Use 1 stick of memory,cpu, video,& keyboard hooked up to board. Do this out of the case.With a small screwdriver short the powerswitch [use your motherboard front panel page to find this] when you short the power switch the CPU fan should turn on & you should get a signal.If you do not then it is 1 ore more of your componets .If you dont get a light on the KEY board i would say it is poss. the board? Have you tried another v card? Forgot to mention when you do this test put the board on a non metalic base such as a piece of cardboard.Quote from: mrtwig913 on JUNE 01, 2008, 04:08:21 AM

I have tried resetting the CMOS

then the monitor goes into sleep mode

can anyone plz provide me info on how to use ibm TAPE backup drivesWelcome to the CH forums.

You are gonna have to give a heck of a lot more info. For example, which tape drive do you want to use? Internal or external. What model number, what operating system, what hardware?

Please read this...dusty thanks for ur response.
tape drive model no. is ts 2340(ibm), to be used with windows XP. Is it THIS model?YES exactly
Do you PLAN to use SCSI or SAS for the interface?

SAS = Serial Attached SCSI, the newer generation compatible with SATA drives.

SCSI = Small Computer System Interface, the older generation interface.

Dusty is, of course, correct -- we need to know more about your system!

My desktop well startup fine nothing happens everthing is fine. But ill be on the computer for a lil while and it just freezes and i cant do anything but restart the computer. can any one tell what to do to try and fix this problem from happening all the time.

its a compaq sr1803wm in a hp a710e tower

Video card
8500 GT GeForce 256 MB

CPU
*Pentium 4 HT
* 3 GHz, 800 MHz FSB, 2 MB L2 Cache

RAM
* 2 GB PC-4200 533 MHz

Operating SYSTEM
* Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate
* Microsoft Service Pack 1

all of those above are no older then 6 monthsWhat are computer's temperatures?max would be 60 c but most of the time about 45-55 Quote

all of those above are no older then 6 months

I install XP and its not freezing. Maybe Vista is that bad lol

I am new to the computer-consumer business, but I'm sure that my new laptop is SUPPOSED to turn on... I just bought an ~ASUS g51vx~ as a Christmas present to myself, but it won't turn on. I believe the problem lies with the cord, but there are no visible imperfections. The LED to INDICATE power to the adaptor is ALSO on, but the computer itself is showing no signs of charging; making me think it's a problem with the plug into the computer. As I said, I just bought it, refurbished, and it has not even had a chance to be corrupted by another force. Please help me. Does any lights turn on the laptop when you plug it in? If not then it might be the power adapter or the adapter interface on the laptop itself. Take to the store you bought and have them test it since it sounds like you just bought it.
Test the charger with a volt meter to double check its working.

If the charger is working fine but there are no LED's indicating charge into your laptop it could be your DC socket.

Is the DC Socket (where the charger plugs into the laptop) wobbely? if its wobbely it'll need to be re-solderd on.

If both the socket and charger are fine, could be a FAULT with the motherboard.Before you open up the laptop I recommend attempting to get a refund/exchange as the laptop is obviously not fit for PURPOSE. If you open it up you will probably loose your warrenty.

Hi all,

My Dell COMPUTER has decided to fall out with all epson printers that I have. When I ask it to print something it takes about 30-40 seconds to start printing?(It didn't used to do this!!) Now I know this might not sound long to some people but trust me its a PAIN in the arse for what im doing.

Does anyone know any tips to make a printer print straight away?You say it used to start printing more quickly. What's different since then (new hw, sw, etc)? Have you checked for a new printer driver? If not, have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling the printer driver?Also check the CONNECTION from your computer to your printer(A loose or internally deteriorating cable may cause delays, although highly unlikely, but still a possible factor)

Provide the following:

• Connection to your printer
• Model of Printer

You say it used to start printing more quickly. What's different since then (new hw, sw, etc)? Have you checked for a new printer driver? If not, have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling the printer driver?

Also check the connection from your computer to your printer(A loose or internally deteriorating cable may cause delays, although highly unlikely, but still a possible factor)

Provide the following:

• Connection to your printer
• Model of Printer

Hi guys,

Tried that one with no change. Do I need to uninstall any old drivers?


Cheers

rings? like a bell?
no lol it like beeps constantlycould be a key stuck downok no worries guys i unplugged the internal laptop keyboard and it all works now and il shortly replace the internal keyboard, anyways THANKS for all of the HELP guys i LOVE you a Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 22, 2009, 06:14:37 AM

could be a key stuck down

I want to install an ide hd in a computer that already has a sata hd. The ide (with the working os) will be the master, and the sata (can't log into windows) the slave. I want to retrieve some FILES, then clean out sata drive to use as STORAGE. Do I simply plug ide into cable that feeds dvd drive? (POWER cable too, of course)Yes.


MB===============================Slave=======Master.

However you will need to CHANGE the BOOT drive priority in the BIOS as SATA if present is the default.
If the IDE had an OS installed to it while in a different machine don't be suprised if it doesn't boot at all...

hi, its been a while since i posted here. it feels good to be back! i was wondering what the name of a cable was called i need for my computer . I will enclose a picture of it for ease of identifying it. thanks for your help, bill
Looks like an s-video a/v cable (http://www.amazon.com/XBOX-S-VIDEO-AV-2-1-CABLE/dp/B00005OSTJ)The black plug is an s-video and the others are RCA plugs, one is for video and the other two are for audio (left and right).thanks alot. yepcould i FIND this at stores like best buy, or is this more of a specialty item?Maybe, but I wouldn't want to bet MONEY on it.where could i find this at, other than the internet?Places like Radio Shack, Best Buy, Fry's, and the sort should have it. You could try calling first, ask them for an S-video to AV COMPONENT cable.thanks abunch for answering my questions. i appreciate the help, from all of you Have a look here:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10996356

Is that what you're LOOKING for?carbon dudeoxide:
The picture posted at the top of the topic is what i need; i appreciate your help though, but the one end does not have an s-cable end; the composite video end is correct, however.