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Hi,

Yesterday I started having a problem with my Photosmart 7755 printer. It's printing really slowly. I will PRINT a line or so, then stop for a long time, then print another few lines. I am just trying to print a normal text document from Word, but the same thing happens when I try to print from the web.

The computer it is attached to: 1 Ghz AMD Thunderbird, 512 MB RAM, win xp Home sp2.

Any HELP is appreciated.

Thanks,
GaryWhat has changed from when it used to work until now?

Have you tried reinstalling the printer software?HI,

WELL, quite a bit had changed. I uninstalled a bunch of software - spybot, adaware, avg antivirus, for the PURPOSE of installing new antivirus software. I hadn't installed the new stuff yet when the printing slowed down. No, I haven't tried to reinstall the printer software. I'll give it a try.

Thanks,
GaryQuote

HI,

Well, quite a bit had changed. I uninstalled a bunch of software - spybot, adaware, avg antivirus, for the purpose of installing new antivirus software. [highlight]I hadn't installed the new stuff yet when the printing slowed down. [/highlight]No, I haven't tried to reinstall the printer software. I'll give it a try.

Thanks,
Gary

Hi, i want to run electric SHEEP on a second monitor off my notebook. Can i do this? I have a new dell 1501 comp. When my screensaver STARTS the second screen turns BLACK. What can i do to change this?Hello,

First of all, it may sound dumb at first , but is your Dual monitor setup working ?
sorry about that, i misread. Nevermind !

But does your dual monitor setup is for an extended desktop or a cloned one ?It is an extension of my NOTEBOOKS monitor. It isnt a clone.

The hard drive on my XP desktop was filling up, so I moved data to a 200 gig Maxtor external hard drive, which now has way more data on it than C: can hold, and I'm running programs like iTunes directly from the external G: drive (the program is on C:, but the data is on G:. For back up purposes, I got a 2nd Maxtor external HD (300), with the idea of copying the data from G: to F: Whether I START XP with both drives running, or start XP and then start the external drives, XP sees both hard drives. However, when I try to copy files from G: to F: using explorer, it won't work. Explorer will open G: and let me highlight and copy a folder, but as soon as try to access F: to paste the folder, the (+) sign next to F: DISAPPEARS, and the drive cannot be accessed. The same thing happens if I use SyncToy instead of explorer to sync or echo files on the 2 drives.
The only way I can back up from G: to F: is to copy a small AMOUNT of data from G: to C:, then turn off G:, turn on F:, copy the data to F:, turn off F:, turn on G:, and copy the next batch of data.
I've checked disk management, and both drives are there, and HEALTHY. Utilities show them to be functioning fine. Independently, they work fine. Together, nothing.
Any ideas on how I can copy from G: to F: without copying the data to C: first?Well Heres my two sense. I have the same sort of problem when I plug my USB DVD Burner into my computer, when I plug it in the USB Network Adapter no longer WORKS. Reason being is that the DVD Drive takes more power, and probably uses more resources which means both can't run at the same time. I'm assuming the same thing is happening with you.That's what I feared. I was just hoping someone had a work around. Thanks anyway.Are those external hard drives powered by an AC adapter or only from the USB ports?Both are powered by AC adaptors.Do you have anything else plugged in?
Other USB devices?Quote

my system is with blank screen some time 2line comes on screen then not reading more while cpu and hard drive is will

Quote

my system is with blank screen some time 2line comes on screen then not reading more while cpu and hard drive is will

:-? Do have a comment, question, or just rambling?

An HP Pringer and a Belkin backup battery.
If you're suggesting that I disconnect them both and then try it again, I'll give that a try and let you know what happened.

I'm using a wireless Gateway MR-0350T and it's a great mouse, but it sucks the LIFE out of batteries like there's no tomorrow. I swear that this thing goes through batteries faster than my digital camera does. I'm currently using 1.2V Duracell rechargeable 2650mAh AA batteries, but my mouse's power rating is 3V/50mA, so I'm guessing I need to find myself some 3V batteries. But do they even come in AA? I can't find any at the stores around here. I suppose I could cut open a CRV-3 battery, but they're a bit pricey, and once you do that, I don't think they're rechargeable anymore. At least, that's what happened the last time I tried doing it. Am I just going to have to put up with a mouse that dies every WEEK (even though I take the batteries out at night when I'm not using it)?I have a mouse that uses NO batteries, just a PS/2 cord.

It is probably the wireless that is the problem, rather than the mouse itself, but you could save a lot of cash with a more conventional model. Yeah, I know I could do that, but it's so hard trying to imagine myself going back to a PS/2 mouse when I've been having so much fun with this one. Ha. I wish there was some way to hook up a tiny generator to the scroll wheel. Whenever I needed more power, I could just scroll for a few seconds and I'd be set. Ha.That'd be a great idea.
Unfortunately, I don't think there's a way to reduce the power consumption of your mouse.
You can't undervolt it, you see.
Wireless mice tend to use a fair amount of power, but my old one just needed new ones maybe once a month or so, then I'd recharge them and I'd be all set.
When I moved to my laptop I just decided on a USB mouse though, as wireless causes lag in games and it was too expensive at the time.
As for 3V AA batteries, I'm really not sure.
But, I think the 3V rating means it wants 2x1.5V AA batteries - 2 normal batteries.
Rechargables have a lower voltage, but sometimes a higher mAh rating.
So they would probably be right for it.
I think you're stuck with the battery eating beastie.Darn. Well, thanks anyway.

It normally isn't that big of a deal; I have two sets of rechargeable batteries and when I'm using one set, I keep the other set fully charged. It's just that my mom somehow managed to lose my battery charger, and her charger (although a Duracell brand, like my batteries) won't work with my batteries, so I have a very limited supply of power until I can find my charger. Or buy a new one, of course. So, basically, I didn't bother with looking into this issue until it finally became a potential threat. Heh.

Sometime tomorrow, I'll go into town and see if I have better luck finding batteries now that I know I don't need 3V. I mean, there's GOT to be some rechargeable 1.5V batteries out there, right? Eh, I GUESS I'll find out soon enough. I've been needing to pick up a few things from the store anyway.

Other than the whole power issue, I love this mouse. Of course, it is my first wireless mouse and first optical mouse, so I guess I'm bound to love it, eh? I haven't experienced any lag in games...but it might also help that my receiver is only a foot away.Quote

I mean, there's got to be some rechargeable 1.5V batteries out there, right?

Are there any universal docks by any chance?

I've noticed the same thing. My keyboard is in constant use (I swear my fingers rarely ever leave the keys), but I've never had to replace the batteries and they're just regular ol' alkalines.

I have recently PURCHASED a new tower ( motherboard , processor. ram etc.) I cannot get my existing HARD drive to run. I have a partition which contains mainly WIN XP PRO, I have formated this but still i cannot get XP to load. I have CHECKED in BIOS and the hard drive is recognised. What do i need to do to set up XP again? What errors do you get? Your post is confusing. If you formatted the drive then Windows is no longer there.

Be very specific about what you did, the equipment, error messages, etc. If you do not reload Windows again with the new motherboard and other hardware you will likely be UNSUCCESSFUL. Do you have a real Windows CD?I should have said set up XP not re load. After formating I tried to set up XP. This went through the checking hard drive and down loading necessary files for set up, but would not go beyond this point. No matter what i tried it wanted to CHECK hard drive and down load necessary files again. I get no error messages. What model hard drive and how is it jumpered? You can get free diagnostics from the appropriate drive maker's site to test, and it is relatively fast. If the hardware is not functioning then Windows is irrelevant, so we need to rule that out first.

Anyone come across a FREEWARE SATA DRIVE cloning program? To clone one SATA drive to another SATA Drive. Brand of drives must not matter.

Strictly looking for freeware versions. Any HELP is greatly appreciated.



BTW, if you need cloning software for IDE, PCI CloneMaxx has been pretty IMPRESSIVE for the most part.http://www.snapfiles.com/reviews/HDClone_Free_Edition/hdclonefree.htmlhttp://www.xxclone.com/
SATA OK
W95 -> XP

This problem occured overnight and I have no idea why. I can download and VIEW mpeg files but when I try to "SAVE link as" it just does not save the file. I have to believe this is an easy fix but I can't figure it out. Please help.
Thanks,
BGwhen you actually are "save link as" in the mpeg format (look) up and see where you have / are saving this file to ?
Maybe its in a downloaded file etc.... If I really want something to save I usually just PUT it into the[highlight] desktop[/highlight]- short-term...

maybe SOMEONE will have a more educated answer here shortly*

Thanks but I have searched for a file immediatley after "saving" it and it's not on my system. I'm using Firefox and Explorer for browsers and they both have the same result. In Firefox the download manager doesn't appear so I un/reinstalled it with no result. Somebody help me! I have searched XP Help for various solutions with no luck so I'm stuck.
Thanks,
BGTry save target as instead of save link...all you are doing right now is filling up your bookmarks folder.Maud'ib,
Stilgar here. I don't have a Save Target As option with Firefox. Save Image As is my other option and that doesn't work either. Suggestions? Or should I say ORDERS sir!
BGStilgar, where the heck have you been while all has become chaos ? ?

Let me test a few and i'll get back to you...Well i tried 3 different ones from google youtube and myway and save link as worked.
Are you under a firewall ?
Have you recently installed any extensions in FireFox ? ?
Did you recently downgrade to IE7 ? ?

patio. 8-)I thought IE7 was the latest version and yes I did upgrade but uninstalled it hoping that was the problem, but it didn't solve it. What did IE7 due to my communicator?
StilIt is the latest version, i just refer to it as a downgrade.
But it shouldn't have affected Firefox though.

I'm still diggin on this end.Ever find an answer to my problem?
BGNope...

Hey,

I hope this looks worse than it is, . .

I restarted my computer and it would not restart, instead I got the following message on a dark screen, . .

Hardware Malfunction
Call your hardware vendor for support
NMI: Parity Check/
Memory Parity/
***The System Has Halted***

I don't know exactly what this means, and worse yet I don't know who my hardware vendor is ?

I can use your help!

I have tried starting it the safe mode, did not work

The last known incidents, day before electric outage computer was off restarted it no problem.

Today, Prevex notice to retry or abort something I closed Prevex messages, there was an update,
I did check prevex for NEWL items the only ones were AOL installation of a MS Instant chat of some kind ?
Sorry I'm not on that computer.

Jp



I'm back at the computer in question and I.m up and running.

I guess I am going to look up the meaning of;

Hardware Malfunction
Call your hardware vendor for support
NMI: Parity Check/
Memory Parity/
***The System Has Halted***

I'm not sure what went right, I did disconnect my printer that isn't working, but that had no effect the first time I tried restarting.

After the power outage I heard it buzz and thought I would try to get it to print, nadda.
THANKS ANYWAY, if you care to comment it will be welcomed.

Jp


Replace the CMOS battery...part #CR2032...about the size of a dime on the MBoard.
Remove all power sources before opening the case...patio,

How much time do I have to do this ?

It may take me a little time to procure part and to get to the MBoard.

But thanks !

JpI'd do it as soon as possible...it might get to the point where it won't even BOOT...

I am going to have to buy a laptop to take when I go on the road. To use for gathering data and for BACKUP. If I buy a usb computer-to-computer cable, can I transfer data from one to the other using "drag-and-drop" technique. Or do I need to buy special software? CAn I back up my entire desk top on to the laptopthat way? :-?You can buy a USB cable to connect computers but, from what I've read, such connections can DAMAGE components because USB ports normally provide some power to USB devices. THEREFORE, connecting computers this way has been know to cause damage.

I suggest a crossover cable, which WOULD be connected to LAN/ethernet port on each computer.Thanks for the comeback. Sounds like good advice. Do you know how fast the data transfer would then be, using the eathernet cable?? I have about 40 Gbytes of data to shift around. JimDepends on the cable itself and the NICs of the PCs involved.
With decent cabling, it'd be (theoretically) 1Gb/s for gigabit Ethernet, 100Mb/s for 100M Ethernet, and 10Mb/s for 10M Ethernet.
Most PCs nowadays have at least 100Mb/s NICs though.
So expect speeds up to that.Good advice all.. I do have a gigabyte ethernet adapter. And I have found a couple of data transfer USB 2 cables (MADE in UK) that claim to do the job. One more question, it looks like whatever Laptop I buy will come with VISTA OS. Should I anticipate any problem transfering data from Win XP to VISTA? Probably a silly question but I still wonder. My data will be mostly WAVE and MP3 files.

I have two slave hard DRIVES. One is failing, and I've been marking bad sectors with ScanDisk. The other is from a junked computer. I've been switching between them as D drives, marking sectors on one and storing big sound files on the other. Overnight on the sound files drive, file names have CHANGED into gibberish, and other correctly spelled file names are now misspelled. In the sound files folder, the two sub-folder names have also changed into gibberish. Properties says they contain zero bytes each. On My Computer, the pie graph for this drive hasn't changed in size. So I'm assuming the files are still on it.

ScanDisk on this drive CRASHES. The jumpers are correctly set per the manufacturer. It had been working fine. What HAPPENED to it while it was sitting here next to the computer? Can these files be recovered?From the moment a hard drive starts to fail it is...well, foolish to store any important data on it. As it continues to fail this will happen whether you have marked ANYTHING or not.

Re-read what I wrote. The sound files drive is not the one I'm marking with ScanDisk. That one is failing and I don't store anything on it. I'm not that ignorant. The sound files drive worked fine until this afternoon.Quote

[highlight]ScanDisk on this drive crashes.[/highlight] The jumpers are correctly set per the manufacturer. It had been working fine. What happened to it while it was sitting here next to the computer? Can these files be recovered?

The HD on my notebook is about to bite the dust, it's got all the classic symptoms. I haven't cracked open a notebook, or a PC since like 1996 so I'm lost on the 'new' technology.

The current HD is of the Ultra-ATA/100 variety. I'm finding replacement 2.5" Ultra-ATA's to be few, far-between, and friggin expensive!

If I've got ATA/100, then ATA/33 and ATA/6 should be backwards compatible, right?

Also, with the new HD, I want to completely clone the current failing HD to it (i'm actually using the notebook right now). Can this be done with just the new drive in an enclosure? In other words, can I just hook up the new HD in an enclosure, plug it in via USB (or serial, or parallel??), and copy the old HD to the new one? Would this just create a perfect image on the new HD, or would it place the copy onto a partition on the new HD, and then I'd have to 'merge' the partitions together??

Any good software to use for the cloning?

Any help would be appreciated, because if this HD goes, I'm FUBARED cause I didn't back up anything! Quote

...If I've got ATA/100, then ATA/33 and ATA/6 should be backwards compatible, right?
...

I was wondering if anyone can help me out here.. I have an AcomData USB 2.0 & FireWire Combo 160GB 7200 RPM External Hard Drive.
Model #HD160U2FE-72. I had a small fire in my home and the external case was smoked and smelled so I removed it (It was still working). The hard drive label states its a Western Digital WD Caviar WD1600 Model # WD1600BB-ODWAO. I tried to put this drive as an internal hard drive. Upon booting up Windows XP it detects it and "adds new hardware" but it doesn't show up in My Computer. In device manager it comes up in Location 0 and states 0 mb capacity. I was told to BUY an external enclosure and install it that way. I bought a I/O Magic USB 2.0 Enclosure. Again upon boot up in Windows XP it detects and "adds new hardware" but it won't show up in my computer. Upon going to Device Manager it states USB Mass Storage Device and in properties it says Location 0 and 0MB capacity. I went to the western digital website and downloaded the Data LifeGuard Tools. Upon smart test it states please check cable test failed. I installed this drive on 3 other computers internally and externally and still come up with the same problem. I have tried EASY Recovery Professional and it can't access the drive. I have about 100 GB of files on here that I really need to recover. Can anyone please tell me how I can recover these files?is it a SATA drive or an EIDE ?
if it is an EIDE, have you checked the jumper settings on the back of the drive against the western digital specification from here http://www.westerndigital.com/en/products/products.asp?driveid=33&language=enThanks ifor your reply its an EIDE drive. I have tried it as cable select, master and single standard installation. Nothing works.. I still GET the same results.

When I start up my computer it LOCKS up , if I try to use the reinstall windows disc it locks up. Is this a hardware problem? Can I install new hardware or do I have to take it someware to be repaired?When the computer is starting keep pressing and releasing the F8 key. When you see the boot menu, choose Safe Mode. Then let us know if the PC still fails to respond when it starts in Safe Mode.I TRIED the computer in safe mode it still locks up right away. I think it is a hardware problem! Does it sound LIKE a hard drive problem or processor or what because I it locks up when I use the quick restore disc?Do you have any new hardware that was not inside,or
connected to the computer when it was new?

Sometimes you NEED to put the computer back as it was
originally then use the restore disk.What Street1 said.

8-)check your fans are WORKING CPU cooling fan and power supply extraction fan.

Can you explain "Same WORK Group"Quote from the link I gave you: Quote

ENABLE the host. At the host computer (the one the printers are connected to), log in as the administrator or as an account that has administrator capabilities. [highlight]Open the Control Panel and click Network And Internet CONNECTIONS. Below Pick A Control Panel Icon, click Network Setup Wizard. On the Welcome screen that displays, click Next and then click Next again. The wizard displays the Select A Connection METHOD dialog box.

Assuming your host computer connects to the Internet through a residential gateway (for example, a router, access point, or base station), select the second option and click Next. The following prompt is for your computer’s description and name. Accept the default answers and click Next. Do the same for the Workgroup Name prompt.[/highlight]

Having a problem with CD-ROM drive. Acer 50X max. Start computer-cd-rom lite stays on, and drive is not recognized. From older (Win98) computer, as I have XP Pro now. Use this computer as backup machine and experimenting with programs ETC. Good no-name computer otherwise. Any ideas what went or could be wrong? Thanx. JoatmonIf it's over a year old, it could well be dead. Was it working fine and then now nothing at all? Any playing about with the cables or messing in the BIOS?

Is the CDROM seen in the BIOS? If so delete it from Control Panel/System and reboot. If nothing, then check the cables for snugness. If that doesn't get it, then you are in the market for a new drive.It is one of the most annoying facts of computers the the CD/DVD drives are active all the time and therefore burn out over time even if you think it is not being USED it will burn out. If only there was something like the settings in USB where the drive if unused would automatically switch off.
The drive if over two years old probably has burnt out the laser head and it is not COST effective to replace , its CHEAPER to buy a new DVDQuote

It is one of the most annoying facts of computers the the CD/DVD drives are active all the time and therefore burn out over time even if you think it is not being used it will burn out.

BIos recognizes my CD drive but when windows 98 loads and got to MY computer CD icon is not there and is not recognized in Device Manager so whats the problem and how do i fix it? plz help!The better questions are what happened before this, have you been playing about in the case or BIOS, what are the details of the machine including the age, and etc.

See below.sorry about that, anyways the computer brand is unknown, had windows 95 on it i uprgraded it to 98 less than a week ago, it has 192 Mb or Ram, 130 MHz PROSSESOR, it the original cd drive that CAME with it.Sometimes components, especially old ones just fail. Did it ever work after the upgrade? I am assuming that you did not format the drive and just loaded 98 on top of 95? Are you SURE it worked before the upgrade?nope, today i took the harddrive and the cd drive out of the computer and PUT it in another computer and it worked fine, so i dont see why it wont work in the other oneDid you NEED to use CDRom drivers in Win95 ? ?

If so re-install them for Win98.

I installed my windows xp pro on my new computer, which I thought I partitioned correctly, then when I wanted to install vista, I couldn't find it. I'm not sure if it got erased. but when I try to recover it the only option of os recovery is xp. can anyone help?At the least you screwed up the boot loader. As a rule the oldest Windows should be installed first.the oldest being the oldest version or the one installed first. the problem is that it is a new computer, when I turned it on vista was ready to be installed, however, i wasn't ready to use vista because most of progams I use weren't compatible with vista, so as it were, i thought I partitioned it correctly, leaving the "recovery" part on the drive. but when i try to recover the only option is for xp. Quote

the oldest being [highlight]the oldest version or the one installed first[/highlight]. the problem is that it is a new computer, when I turned it on vista was ready to be installed, however, i wasn't ready to use vista because most of progams I use weren't compatible with vista, so as it were, i thought I partitioned it correctly, leaving the "recovery" part on the drive. but when i try to recover the only option is for xp.

I think it's actually been like a month since I've last been here, which is a new record for me. I didn't mess up my computer for an entire month! But good things never last. The sound isn't working, a problem I've encountered too many times before. But USUALLY I can fix it simply by doing a system restore, and that's not working this time. iTunes still works, but sounds on sites like youtube have stopped. So I went to control panel and opened the audio device thing, and which I went to the audio tab I REALIZED that my default device is set to "Modem #7 Line Playback". I could be wrong, but I was pretty sure that my audio device is Creative SB Live. I have no IDEA how to change it back, or what changed it in the first place. Here's what happened right before it got all messed up: I noticed that all the sounds were a bit echoy, and then I remembered that a few days ago I set Creative Recorder to the echo setting for some audio I needed to record. I guess that affects all the sounds on the computer. So I open up Creative Recorder and this error message comes up. It said that it could not find the hardware or drives, and then it closes. And after that none of the sounds worked. And all I did was open up the recording PROGRAM, that's it. One minute everything works, the next it doesn't.ok, here's what's going on now (because i've been trying a few things since the first post): i've done a few system restores, finally going back to the furthest point possible. but each time i get a message saying it was unsecuesful. after the system restore (despite the error message), sound works on the internet again for maybe an hour if that. and then it stops working.Check your sound device settings in comtrol panel - The other day i got an e-card for VALENTINE's Day and could not hear the sound and when i went control panel i noticed that for some reason my sound device driver was not set as primary...Just a thought.how would i set it as primary?I'm interested also...how do you set a sound device as "primary " ? ?The word that i should have used is "DEFAULT" not primary - In control panel select "Sounds and Audio Devices" click the "Audio" tab and make sure that a default device is showing in the window - As i stated before i had a similar problem recently and when i went to the device manager it was empty - For what reason i do not know because it was not something i had not physically changed intentionally - As the saying goes though "garbage in-garbage out" so some change i had made recently affected my setting.Just a thought!!!

Hi,
I have an old ThinkPad 760ed which use the Floppy as the first drive to look into when STARTING the computer.
Since the Floppy is an external one and I have lost it I instead want the INTERNAL CD-drive to act as the first device to look in when starting my computer or to tell the computer to read the CD-drive if it is TOLD to read in the floppy.

Are there anyone in this forum that can give help with this ISSUE?

I am at present time running Windows 98.

/Claes :-?For Thinkpads i BELIEVE the F2 key needs to be hit repeatedly on re-boot to enter the BIOS...once in there you can reset the boot device ordering.
If not try delete.Thanks Patio,
It is F1 that should be used to enter the "easy set-up program" but there are no settings for the drives in there so I am not sure that this is the place to make the changes.

Any better suggestion?

/Claes

Hi

I have got a problem with sound which has just started today and I am not sure how or why!

Instead of hearing any sounds (windows sounds, playing music, etc) i just get a hissing sound which lasts for the length of the sound that should be played - the volume cannot be "turned up or down" . The only way to stop hearing it is to click mute.

I have tried reinstalling Audio DRIVERS from Motherboard CD but still no luck.

If a sound is input via the Line In Jack it can be heard perfectly - as it should be.

Also I have tried recording some audio in a wav editor and what is recorded looks ok (IE. height of wave changes) but when played it is just one long hiss!

Any idea of what is going wrong?

Thanks

My specs are as follows:
Windows XP SP2
ASROCK 939 DUAL VSTA onboard sound
AMD Athlon 64 processor 3500+ 2.2 GHz
1GB RAM
Did anything happen or change before this started?
What happens with different headphones/speakers?
And with those headphones/speakers on another PC, a CD player, or anything that makes a noise?Nothing has changed as far as I am aware.

I tried plugging the speakers into a HIFI and they work perfectly.

It is really strange, can't figure it out! How about with different speakers on that PC?WOW

I was just going to try some different speakers and it has suddenly started working again - How strange!!!

Thanks anyway
Odd.
Anyway, you're welcome.
Sometimes we're just that good.
If it happens again, post back.Calum, I'm starting to notice that problems just magically fix themselves when you enter a thread. I think you need to start addressing my problems more often. Ha.Haha.
I'm just that magical.

And I'll try to work my magic on your problems sometime soon.

Hey,my names Jovana I have a problem with my scanner,it was working without problems until today.I TRIED to scan some images and as I was walking past the table where the scanner was I accidentally tripped over the scanner's power supply cable and the scanner froze.When I turned if off completely,removed it from the usb too and put it back in,it's still frozen and whenever I put in the supply cable it's just there freezing and making a weird and QUITE noisy sound...I don't know what to do now,can I reset it somehow?It doesn't seem to be communicating with the computer at all...the scanner is a Hewlet Packard Scanjet 3800,it's almost new....can somebody help me out or suggest what to do next please?Quote

...can somebody help me out or suggest what to do next please?

I have a Shuttle SB15G computer that's about 2 or 3 years old. When I press the power button it doesn't boot up. However anywhere from 10minutes to 3 hours later, the computer will power up and act normally until I shut it down again. I have CLEANED the inside of dust. Any IDEAS on what's up with this computer?What is the MAKE, wattage and AGE of the power supply. That is a prime suspect. Poor connections are another.

I recently reformatted a Dell Dimension 2400 with Windows XP Home SP1a (see here). After doing so, I used the Resource CD's to manually install all of the drivers. For the most part, everything's been going smoothly. But I'm still having problems with the CD drive. It seems to only want to read the CD's that came with the machine. It fails to recognize any others (with the exception of an old Microsoft Works 2004 CD that came with my old eMachines W2247). If I put in any other, the arrow will change (it will become the arrow with a CD) for a few seconds and then that's it. It doesn't even spin the disk or anything.

The whole thing is really odd. I've never heard of a drive only reading specific disks. Figuring I needed new drivers or something of the sort, I went to Dell to download the newest drivers, but none were available for this particular drive (HL-DT-ST CD-RW GCE-8483B), so I tried setting up an EXTERNAL drive (MicroSystems Backpack CodeWriter; LG CD-RW CED-8083B USB Device), but it does the exact same thing. I checked the BIOS, but didn't find anything unusual. Of course, I also might not know what to look for. According to Device Manager, the drive is working properly, but this definitely isn't the case.

I tried running IDE Drive Diagnostics, but when it scanned the drive, it said "Diagnostics not supported." I've pretty much run out of ideas. I would really love to hear any suggestions you guys might have. If it's of any relevance, the computer has 256 MB and 2.4 GHz. Because it's not my computer, I don't know for SURE that the drive worked before the reformat, but I assume it does, because my sister (the owner) never told me about having problems with it.Try opendrivers.com and reinstall the drivers - Or just type in your web BROWSER the identification numbers and you will see options for possibly troubleshooting or other areas for possible DRIVER downloads - Even try Microsoft.com.Since it's a Dell, you might try this forum also: http://www.dellcommunity.com/supportforums/board?board.id=dim_cdromTry opendrivers.com and reinstall the drivers - Or just type in your web browser the identification numbers and you will see options for possibly troubleshooting or other areas for possible driver downloads - Even try Microsoft.com.The Dell Community Forum that soybean above mentioned is an excellent idea - I have been there as well and there is a contact called "Dev Mgr" that is very helpful in assisting with hardware questions.Thank you for the resources. I'll look into both of them right now.How did your research GO?Not too well so far. I found the appropriate driver needed, but it didn't change anything. Then someone on the Dell forum started helping me out. He had me make sure that the drive is running in DMA mode, which it is. He then suggested reloading the IDE controller, so I did that, but it didn't make any difference. And I haven't heard anything from him since. I looked around on Google for a bit and took a small break and now I'm back and I'm still not coming up with anything. I just don't get it... As far as I can tell, everything is set up properly in the BIOS, the drivers are installed, it's running in the proper mode, and the computer has no problem recognizing the drive. But it just doesn't work. And it can't be a hardware issue because the same thing happens with the external drive (it works fine on other computers). I'm half-tempted to look for some hacked firmware, but I don't think it would really even help me all that much.

This is my first post on the forum here, but i've browsed through here for help with other ISSUES, and i've been all over the internet on this one already this evening.

Last NIGHT I changed a registry key by recommendation of my virus scanner to keep a virus from launching itself on reboot. After removing the registry key, rebooting, and removing the virus, my computer began to run REALLY slowly. I restored my registry to a point BEFORE I caught the virus, wondering if I had inadvertently damaged something in the process, and it seemed to work like it was SUPPOSED to, so I shut down my computer for the night.

This afternoon when I booted up my computer, Windows XP was unable to detect a sound device, and was also unable to play system sounds (I use my motherboard's NVIDIA nForce onboard sound). I've been all over the internet trying this fix and that, and trying to apply solutions for similar problems, but I haven't been able to find an effective fix for a problem quite like the one i'm having.

I was able to get my sound working properly again after copying sndvol32.exe off my Windows XP cd back into the proper directory, and then reinstalling the sound driver from my motherboard CD, which I thought was a remarkably simple fix. But now, after rebooting my computer, Windows XP is unable to detect a sound device (Control Panel -> Sounds and Audio DEVICES displays "No Audio Device") until I install the drivers from my motherboard CD again, after which point it begins functioning properly. Device Manager displays no conflicts, and shows everything to be functioning properly, the only abnormality being that I have Audio Codecs twice on my list of devices. Even when windows doesn't detect my sound device, it's displayed as functional in Device Manager. I'm not sure if it's something that i've screwed up in the registry, or my boot.ini, nor do I have any idea how to fix it at this point, so any guidance is appreciated

TIA Just a 1st suggestion, do a restart and go into your bios and make sure the onboard audio NVIDIA (your mobo) is 'enabled".Just went through and looked, and everything in my BIOS appears to be in order, although I don't know what some of the things in there do, but I don't mess with them at all

I have a Raid 0 config, run through the Intel Raid Controller. Recently I've been trying to add a third hard drive (IDE). My BIOS recognizes the drive just fine. However after the BIOS screen at the Intel Raid summary screen it doesnt proceed to xp and instead asks me to try rebooting or to enter BIOS.

I have the third drive in the master slot and the proper PIN selection (master).

I've been trying maxtor and intel help sites but they are of no help haha.
Ive been trying to find some documentation on Intel's raid controller but to no avail either.

SO any help would be great! ThanksCheck the drive jumpers!
Re new hard drive is it configured as master or as slave, there can only be one master in each IDE cable the other drive is set as slave, and although you can add a hard drive to the secondary ide cable there still must be jumpers set as master and slave between the CD/DVD player and the additional hard drive.
it is configured as master and the jumper is set as master, its the only drive on the IDE cable.Check your boot order in bios and make sure the raid is selected ahead of any IDE drives.yeah the intel raid is ahead of any IDE in the boot order.

dunno if this will provide any clues, but when my old hard drive that was hooked up in the same slot, the intel raid screen listed it under "Non-Raid Disks Defined" now under "Non-Raid Disks Defined" is says "none" even when BIOS recognizes it. So maybe theres something I have to configure in the intel raid screen?Check to see if the raid configured it as a spare drive. If so, you you might have to REMOVE it from the raid configuration. Or the "Non raid disk" might have an option to define the drive.yeah thats what I THOUGHT about the Non raid disk too, but there doesnt seem to be any options, unless theres a command you can use without the menus.

I took another look at my boot order though...

the boot SEQUENCE is: (1) Hard-Disk Drice C (the raid) (2) Diskette Drive (3) CD-ROM Drive

so I assume thats right? the new IDE hard drive doesnt even show up on the list

The Hard-disk Drive Sequence is: (1) BIOs boot devices (2) Intel Array

Should I switch the HDD Seq?

BTW, thanks for the help !
I switched the HDD seq so the intel array was first and it works perfectly now.

again thanks for your help.

I have a Dell Optiplex GX620 SFF in an 19" (1906FP) all-in-one-stand - Currently I do not have a card installed and am wanting to get one mainly to make my display digital - Monitor came with cable for digital display - I do not really play video games persay but I do alot of digital photography and I use my computer for video and music - what would be a good video/graphics card for my system?What size power supply? What kinds of slots are present? Are they full size or half HEIGHT slots? Etc.?When I chatted with a dell representative a few days ago he said that i would need a "low profile" card - suggested a PCI-E x16.Dell Optiplex GX620 = 945 express chipset = pci-e 16X = 305/280/275 w

what is your budget ?My budget is pretty much unlimited - I have the resources to do what I want but when it comes to really technical issues I do my own research of course - But it never hurts to get input from OTHERS to seek out and exhaust all options before purchases are made - If there is something that is BETTER that I have not found on my own and it costs more but in the long run is the best CHOICE, then I want to KNOW about it - That is why I seek out others opinions and ideas.Thanks for the assistance in advance!!!

Same here.
Not a bad one either.
LOL.True, I should have recognized that. The TONGUE emoticon was a clue. Quote

Quote

Ummm ..., I THINK he means joy.

I am assuming that WillyW was MAKING a joke.

8-)fffreak

I am trying to set-up my COMPUTER to view the monitor and projector at the same time. I have a DELL gx280. I have a dvi port with a dvi to vga duel splitter. I am able to connect USING port 1 of the splitter, but not port 2. What do I need to do to get port 2 of the splitter to SEND data? Or is there something that I need to do to the card?

Anyone know where I can download the latest drivers (if any) for
(Sckt939)EVGA nForce4 SLI chipset RAID dual PCI-E

When I go to EVGA's website my options (the ones that would make sense) under mainboard drivers are:


BIOS updates
NF41/NF43 AMD chipset?
Nforce 4 audio

Do I just want to update the BIOS or what?

Also- I assume the Nvidia Nforce4 drivers are not the same?

Thank you,OK, their site is confusing.
I see the same as you, and I have equally no idea what you need.
I don't think you want a BIOS update though.
Is there a reason why you want updated drivers?Kind of a long story.. Short VERSION is I'm having some graphics card issues, and more want to eliminate any mainboard issues i might have?


Long story is I got a radeon 1950pro w/o realizing I needed the 6pin power connection. Ended up buying a new PSU and installing it. Installed the new drivers, everything worked fine for around 1hr (of GAMING) then I got booted to desktop with and GPU error something like "UNABLE to reocgnize the appropriate drivers" or something. Rebooted.... tried again.. same thing, expect this time after reboot , the desktop wouldn't load (got stuck on the desktop background loading. Paniced a bit... switched the new card to the old...same thing happened after an hr or so. In my newbishness ,not knowing what to do.. I switched the PSU back to the old... reinstalled the game, drivers, defragged, etc... same issue. I never had an issue before I got into this.. (the game and card were working just fine.. just a bit slow) The graphics card seems very hot and smells a bit funny? I'm not as concerned that I have fried the card but I have a new card on the way and don't want to risk damaging it as well. Anything else I can do? I had read to make sure your mainboard drivers are up to date...

Thank you for the quick response!

I just bought a new MONITOR: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?Sku=S197-2016
It didn't COME with a dvi cable, which it did say when I bought it. The problem is while on EBAY I see DVI cables with crapload of configurations. (see pic) Does anybody know which one I need? Thanks!
Oh, I should put my graphics card up too, it's a ATI X800GTO.I've been looking around and it seems I need DVI-D Dual link. Can this be confiremed?I went ahead and bought one for $10, it should work FINE. You seem to have solved it yourself then.
Hope it works out for you.And it was great seeing you convesing with yourself and working your way out of a jam...

:-? PRESARIO V2000 KEYBOARD, MOUSE AND BUILT IN PAD ALL DISABLED AFTER I MADE A FEW CHANGES . IE ADDED WIRELESS MOUSE, DISABLED THE BUILT IN PAD, AND CHANGED THE STYLE OF CURSOR.
COMPUTER BOOTS OK,WIN XP ETC BUT I CANNOT CLICK, TYPE, AND THE CURSOR IS INVISABLE OR MISSING.
HOW IN THE WORLD DID DO THAT? AND CAN I FIX IT?
Can you boot into Safe Mode and reset EVERYTHING you changed back to the default settings?

Alan <>< Yes I did Alan, the problem continues in safe mode ALSO.
Yesterday I tried to uue the recovery cd to solve the problem, and it went ok until the very last . then a popup window ask for a response. I could not answer of course without the mouse and keyboard. It keeps attempting to load on bootup now.
The wireless mouse transmitter/ reciever plugged into a USB port lites up when I move or click the mouse. But the curser is missing so I don't know if it is working or
not.
Thanks AlanGlad you got the caps lock issue fixed in the meantime...

Hi everyone this is my first post so a newb
i have tried to have 2 usb scanners WORKING on the same pc
1) kyocera multi function and a Genius FLAT BED but they seem to conflict.
is it possible to have them on seperate ports as they dont seem to want to WORK together i hope this makes sense

You should be able to run sSpec SL48S Slot1 CPU.Your package type is SECC2.Read the below site.

http://www.cpu-world.com/sspec/Pentium%20III.html[highlight]Follow Up[/highlight]........


I installed the 1000mhz Pentium 3 processor, UPDATED to the 9-19-02 BIOS flash and the old IBM is RUNNING fine.

The new processor is recognized in Belarc Advisor and EVEREST Home Edition.

Thanks for the help.Quote

[highlight]Follow Up[/highlight]........


I installed the 1000mhz Pentium 3 processor, updated to the 9-19-02 BIOS flash and the old IBM is running fine.

The new processor is recognized in Belarc Advisor and Everest Home Edition.

Thanks for the help.

[highlight]Follow Up[/highlight]........


I installed the 1000mhz Pentium 3 processor, updated to the 9-19-02 BIOS flash and the old IBM is running fine.

The new processor is recognized in Belarc Advisor and Everest Home Edition.

Thanks for the help.

It is time, I must replace my laptop. It has provided good SERVICE but is a Pentium 3. Do we have any discussions or place where we can look up to SEE who we recommend as manufacturers, or does it really matter?>You want advice on BUYING a laptop?
You've come to the RIGHT place. Or one of them anyway.
What do you want to be doing with this laptop, and what's your budget?ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR, some games to tease the mind, crystal reports, accounting software , and spreadsheet crunching

was looking for dual core 2.33 of course
xp-pro
great graphics
160+ HD
2 g ram
wireless, dvd/cd rw
and of course it has to GET my coffee for meSo quite a high spec machine then.
What about your budget?

I'm GETTING this ERROR when i START my COMPUTER always
STOP: 0x000000c5 (0xE1583000,0x00000002,0x00000001 or 4,0x8054AD6E)

Whenever I turn on my computer, it makes clicking noises and the screen says;
BOOT failure
INSERT Boot DISKETTE A:
Searching for Boot Record, press any KEY when ready.
Searching for Boot Record from Floppy.. not found.
Searching for Boot Record from CDROM.. not found
Searching for Boot Record from SCSI.. not found

and it goes on...
There is no need for multiple identical posts. This one is locked. Please see the RESPONSES to the other. Thanks.

I had purchased a PCChips P13G+ Motherboard product through Tigerdirect.com. Had no problems with it EXCEPT lining up with the Panel 1 CONNECTORS vs. the old ONES. My old motherboard had one row of 8 pin holes, 1 of which had no pin (4th pinhole in). From left to right it read POWER LED, HDD LED, DC S/W. I am not sure which is which, and which goes into the motherboard and could not find info on the website of PCChips (just have a picture of the PANEL 1). The actual power button had Red and Black wires coming from it, the hd led (I am 95% sure) has yellow and black wires, and the dc s/w (once again, 95% sure) has green and black wires.

The Panel 1 on the new motherboard has 2 rows of 5, the top right being the KEY (no pin).

The top row is labeled FP PWR/SLP + and FP PWR/SLP -, not sure if one of those original three connections goes here. Continuing on the top row is POWER SW + and POWER SW -, and from my understanding this is the main power supply and what I am assuming the RED wire goes to the + and the black goes to the -.

On the bottom row, it starts with HD LED + and HD LED -, assuming I connect the yellow to the plus from the original motherboard as it was HDD and the black to the - here.
Continuing the bottom row, there is a RESET SW - and RESET SW +, dont THINK this one is used, but then again I have no idea on this one.
And the last pin on the bottom row says RSVD DNU and NOT A CLUE what this is.

Thanks for all the help, do not want to mess this one up.

My friend has a Sony VAIO PCG-R505TL laptop. It originally CAME with Windows ME, but he tried to replace it with Windows 98SE. The CDROM is no longer recognized. What do we need to do to fix this? I was told by one person do RESET BIOS, but my friend does not remember the PASSWORD. Please help.I don't think the BIOS is the issue, but without the BIOS password you will NEVER get in there anyway. Laptops are built to be secure in this regard.

How your friend is trying to install may be the bigger issue.

I have a big problem, my speakers for some reason ONLY work when plugged into the Pink Microphone plug in, in the back of my computer. I need to also plug in a microphone as WELL for typing programs and chat. But since my speakers only work in that plug in. its EITHER speakers or microphone and thats soo silly

has anyone had this problem and was able to resolve it?
please let me know asap!
Some details about the machine make and model, or MOTHERBOARD make/model could be helpful.

Has it always been this way?some details please of the computer and motherboard please.
the pink connection is normally the microphone, so you should have sound from the Green, but you might have set up the sound system as a multi speaker system which would change the input and output sockets.
how many speakers are you using? if it is only two, GO to Control panel/ sound and Audio DEVICES/ at the bottom of the first page click advanced, then scroll the small window to select the type of speaker system you do use such as "Desktop stereo speakers" or whatever you have. only select 5.1 or 7.1 if you have the correct speakers attached , the sound system can also be sent to the front connections in some computers which then screws up the rear connections you must only use one or other as the motherboard will do strange things when front and rear are actioned.

Can I install a new ATA100 HDD instead of an old ATA66 disk. LAPTOP is
Siemens_Fujitsu E-series. Old HDD was Toshiba MK2016GAP. I am not EXPECTING ATA100 features, of course, but I am worry about connector,voltages, Bios e.t.c. What about diff. MANUFACTURER?That should work fine. diff. manufacturer is not an issue. connector,voltages would be the same; no difference there between ATA100 and ATA66.

As you said, if the computer is an ATA66 MACHINE, it simply won't be able to take full advantage of the ATA100 speed.

Hey guys.

I insert a cd into the tray and close it. I hear whirring noises and see sparkly flashing lights. ...But nothing happens. I go into My Computer to the CD-RW Drive (E:) and open it, still nothing. No CD shows up. I don't remember when it first started, but it was a long time ago. I don't know how I got by without being able to use CDs.

It is an ATAPI CD-RW 52XMax

Computer Specs-

System:
Microsoft Windows XP
Home Edition
Version 2002
Service Pack 1

COPCSTOP.com
Custom System
AMD Athlon(TM) XP 2000+
1.66GHz
224 MB of RAM

Also, this computer is not connected to the internet, so I don't know if I'll be able to download a new driver if that is the problem. (Using a laptop right now.)

It's not much information to go on, so please TELL me specific things to add.

Thanks a lot in advance for your HELP.

Cheers,
TekkThe optics usually go LONG before the mechanics, which is why the DRAWER will open and close, but it doesn't work. In the absence of a history of damage to the drive, playing about in the BIOS, etc. then a replacement is in order. A new DVD burner is about $40 delivered.

Windows has all the drivers you NEED. You can try deleting the CDROM entry in Contol Panel/System and REBOOTING. If that doesn't fix it, then it is time to go shopping. There is a reason those drives have a one year warranty or less. Couldn't get it to work so I'll just take your advice and get a new one. Thanks for your help GX1.

Cheers,
Tekk

Hi, I am using a polycom viavideo camera with PVX software version 8.0.

The "show desktop" icon is greyed out. I have called polycom and they say since my computer has a X86 Family 15 Model 4 Stepping 1 Genuineintel 2998 Mhz processor that the "stepping" is causing the PVX software to not detect ADEQUATE system requirements for the "show destop" FEATURE to FUNCTION correctly.

This is a desktop computer.

Is there any way to "deactivate" the stepping of the processor, allowing it to display full functionality to this software or anyone have another idea??

Thanks for any advice/help anyone can provide.I seriously DOUBT you can alter the stepping properties of a CPU...There is a way.
Set your power options (Control Panel --> Power) to Always On.
This will completely disable stepping, forcing the CPU to run at its full speed of 3GHz constantly.
Or, run a demanding application before the software you're having issues with, this will force the CPU to ramp up to full speed to cope, and then run the software, hopefully the CPU will not have stepped down again.
Hope this helps.

Does that machine have onboard video?
If so, hook the monitor up to that and see if the problem PERSISTS.

Does that machine have onboard video?
If so, hook the monitor up to that and see if the problem persists.

Well I guess I can START by saying that I wasn't doing anything abnormal, I was simply on the internet when all of a sudden the screen froze. I turned off the computer and turned it back on (this has never happened before for this computer), when I did so the monitor did not turn on (ViewSonic VX2025WM 20" Widescreen LCD Monitor). However I was seriously doubting it was the monitor, the reason is I can still play the xbox 360 (which is plugged in thru the VGA input on the back, and it works like a charm). So I thought that my Video Card was the problem, so I sent it in (called in it's warranty), this however I am SAD to say is also not the case as I just got it in, and it still is not working.

So my problem is I have no idea what it could be, I have heard that it may be the the wire or perharps the DVI slot burned out. Also like the title suggests I have no beeps, so it could be the motherboard, however it has had no problems in the 2 years I have had it. It is a custom built computer built by myself, so there is no other people, no warranty on it or anything, I am forced to either scrap it or send it in (i'm poor at the moment so I thought I would try my luck around the community).

If any of you could help, it would be much appreciated (and don't worry you can talk tech, I know enough, and I have my father here who used to do AS400 Systems, we know our way around).I've only seen this one time and it was caused by defective RAM.Sorry, I don't have a solution for you either but this has happened to me. I did the same things, tested the monitor and changed the video card. Nothing worked. I then swapped out all the parts except the mother board into a new computer and that computer worked fine so I'm thought maybe I had a short or something in my mobo. I then PUT that mobo in a different case and put new parts on that mobo and it worked fine. This baffled me so I again put all the old parts back together and you know what? It DIDN'T work! This is a strange problem and I thought it was just me. Good luck with it.Thanks, I thought it may have been that. However I wasn't sure. I am still hoping though.I would borrow a known working power supply from a friend and swap it in there to see if this is the problem...doesn't sound like the monitor since as you say it runs XBox but you could always hook it up to another machine to see...Disconnect all cards, drives, keyboards/mice, and RAM.

Power on, listen for beeps from your motherboard.

If beeps are heard then, there might be hope for the motherboard and supply.
Plug one item back in at a time and see if you can narrow down which component might be causing the issue (unplug power each time)
If no beeps then, probably supply or motherboard (is supply fan running?)Thanks I try that today and tell ya what happened.The minimum devices to power test a MBoard should be video card, one stick of RAM, keyboard and MOUSE....other than that go for it.

Hi
can you help me please?
- I have a dell inspiron 2200 - year 2005, i lost the BIOS password about a year ago. asked a friend to have a look at it, he thought by removing the bios BATTERY the problem would be solved, but it didnt work with dell. he had the laptop in pieces and PUT it back together after not solving the prob. he broke one of the chips for the battery and is now held by a piece of paper.
I have just found the bios pass in my old note pad book, i took the bios and admin pass off. after switching the bios pass off there was a note on screen saying that a part on system bay was not being recognised or needed to be placed/pushed into place correctly, kept saying the same thing everytime i turned pc on, so i took it apart and the only thing i could think of was the bios battery, so i modyfied the paper holding it and is now making contact on the side and bottom. put it back together, the message about system tray does not appear anymore but it now says - when the blue line on TOP appears(dell.com) -
0 active partitions
_
when i click enter it goes blank then 0 active partitions appears again
when i click enter again it says on screen:
0 active partitions
no bootable devices--strike F1 to retry boot, F2 for setup utility
if i click F1 it repeats the same thing above
when i click F2 setup utility screen comes up
and if i hold power button on and off it boots but same thing happens.
dell has a PC RESTORE (format C) built in by SYMANTEC and its done when pc turns on - ctlr+F11. i tried that and it says on screen
cannot restore

the lock icon light with number 9 on it stays on at all times when pc is on.
The only way then to turn pc off is by pressing and holding the power button.
Is there a way to sort this out? if there was damage to motherboard when it was open to pieces, can the motherboard be disconnected then connected again so it recognise it?
can it be that the hard drive is DAMAGED?

many thanks
blade
Quote

Is there a way to sort this out? if there was damage to motherboard when it was open to pieces, can the motherboard be disconnected then connected again so it recognise it?
can it be that the hard drive is damaged?

Ive decided to get a new video card and im going for the 8800 GTS 320mb version,

my question is i have basically a choice of 2 brands. leadtek and gigabyte. the PRICE is exactly the same for both brands and wondered what anyones opinion on these brands were. a friend of mine uses leadtek and he seems to think that its a great brand but i wanted more than one persons opinon.

thanks in advance.Here is one difference between the two,
(Leadtex) -Pros: cover is different than everybody elses, metal heat shield over the heatsink,

I guess both are fine at this point in the new 10X category. Keep in mind, there are still ~some~ driver issues with these new CARDS and you better have [highlight]at least[/highlight] a 450 watt psu... Many of the reviews I am reading on these models clearly state to make sure you have a powerful cpu for these babies too ! Have fun... 2 issues ago , PC Maximum had a rather in-depth review on these gpu's and the do's and don'ts ... The brand makes a difference, perhaps the WARRANTY and any extras they may offer, plus sometimes certain brands offer higher performance cards.
So check reviews for each card before you buy, and what people's experiences are with the brands, as WELL as if there are any extras being offered,
I haven't used either brand, so I don't know.
Whichever you choose, you'll be very happy with it, as long as you have a good enough PSU and a powerful enough system for it.thanks for the replys GUYS, i will have a look into the reviews. im running a thermaltake 750w power supply so ive got my bases covered there Nice...how much was that bad boy ? ?um it was $215 australian dollars. pretty cheap considering what it is. but i figured i would need it because of the high end rig im building. plus it sounds cool to say of got a 750w power supply

hello all, PRINTER only prints DEFAULT page when printing command for any page is sent what could be the reason, please REPLY??What printer is this?
What OS?
Does this happen with every application?
Your protection?
How long has it been LIKE this, and what HAPPENED before it started?Quote

hello all, printer only prints default page when printing command for any page is sent what could be the reason, please reply??

My CD-ROm drive won't read any CD's.
I keep getting error messages at the Event viewer that say :"The device, \Device\Ide\IdePort1, did not respond within the timeout PERIOD." or
"The device, \Device\CdRom0, has a bad block."
Do I have to check the cables or is it a problem with the CD-ROM?
What happened prior to this? How old is the drive? There is a reason they have a 1 yr. warranty or less. I think I have it for more than 1,5 YEARS and the warranty is over.
What do you mean by :"What happened prior to this?"?
Anything unusual witht he computer? Playing about inside the case? Viruses removed? Etc.?

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=The+device%2C+%5CDevice%5CCdRom0%2C+has+a+bad+block&btnG=Google+SearchI think my PC is virused ,cause it started to work WORSE and my antivirus hasn't been updated for a long time.I'll install a NEW ONE with full updates.I haven't been playing inside the case lately ,so there shouldn't be any problems in there.
I'll try to do what was sugested on that link you gave me .Thx for it.I haven't thought searching the error on google.
Can there be some other problems with the cd-rom?

I bought a BROTHER 6-in-1 Multifunction Printer (MFC5840CN)

When I SEND a fax I hear the DIAL TONE but never get an answer.
I took the fax I was TRYING to send to a local murchant and the fax was picked up on the second ring and went through. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks
Dan