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I got a bargain on eBay. Label says DIR 606 L
Manual and you tube shows reset on back next to antenna the power plug.
It was not there. Took mean HOUR find it.

D-link ROUTER has reset on bottom. So now I am using it. It works.

Maybe it was wrongly labeled?




.
Glad yer happy...There is no D-Link 606L.

You probably FOUND results for a DIFFERENT model.My bad. It is DIR 605 L and is on the D-link site.

Here is a phone from Newegg.
On the back side you see a reset hole near the antenna.
But the modekl I got has it underneath.
This gives me something else to worry about besides Brexit and the FIRES in Brazil.

Hello,

1st i'm sorry coz my english not so good..

my desktop pc... when i SWITCH on it... and about 5-7 second it suddenly shut off by it self..

i ve checked the power supply...and i cant find the problem..i thought it might be my power suply blow out..

can somebody plz help me to settle tis problem>?.. i'm stuck wit tis bout couples of weeks.. and know i'm USING my sis laptop.

thanks
iosmanDoes the CPU Fan Spin at boot or is it not moving? If a CPU fan doesnt spin when it expects it to, it will shut off to avoid a melt down of the CPU.

If this is a desktop computer:
And not the CPU Fan then I'd say try swapping the power supply with a known good power supply or brand new one

If its a laptop computer:
And not the CPU Fan then I'd say remove the BATTERY from the laptop and see if you can get it to boot on just the external power brick connected to wall power and laptop. If it still doesnt boot then verify that there is a power LED lighting when its plugged in in a power off state. If no LED lights when plugged in and laptop off then it could be DAMAGED power jack on laptop or you need to replace the power brick ( aka laptop power supply ).

If removing the battery and powering off the power brick ( power supply ) is successful then the laptop battery is pulling down the power to the laptop and the battery is likely bad and needs to be replaced or laptop is to be run without battery. *Personally I dont like running laptops without a HEALTHY battery as for power interruption can crash the laptop if there is no battery to switch over to quickly to keep it running.Quote from: iosman on August 09, 2019, 08:28:01 AM

Hello,

1st i'm sorry coz my english not so good..

my desktop pc... when i switch on it... and about 5-7 second it suddenly shut off by it self..

i ve checked the power supply...and i cant find the problem..i thought it might be my power suply blow out.

can somebody plz help me to settle tis problem>?.. i'm stuck wit tis bout couples of weeks.. and know i'm using my sis laptop.

thanks
iosman

Hello,

1st i'm sorry coz my english not so good..

my desktop pc... when i switch on it... and about 5-7 second it suddenly shut off by it self..

i ve checked the power supply...and i cant find the problem.. 500error I thought it might be my power suply blow out..

can somebody plz help me to settle tis problem>?.. i'm stuck wit tis bout couples of weeks.. and know i'm using my sis laptop.

thanks
iosman

Hello,
I have Epson XP-302. This problem started about a week ago. After printing some text file I turned off the printer like I always do. About an hour later I turned it back on to print something else and this problem bugs me since then.
Every time I turn it on, the print head starts moving. First as it's warming up like it should be and then like it's printing something(but it's actually not, just moving the print head). There is no paper pulled in the printer and no ink used. Print head moves some times, then stops and displays this message: error e-01. From there on I can't do nothing else then turn off the printer. I already tried hard reset and I cleaned the printer. I also tried to do anything really before printhead starts moving but had no success. Nothing works. What can I do to get rid of this error?

Printer is no longer under warranty. There are no filles waiting to be printed and no paper jam. I have had some pson printers in the past, but never heard of that problem. Doing Google search I found that e-01 paper jam was reported but other people. SOMEBODY even did a You Tube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKBlv7rFmYY

Or your Epson might have some other issue. Here is a reference:
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/415476/Epson-Xp-300.html?page=21
On the above web site you can select which page of the manual you might want to see. Try looking at other pages also, like page 23.
Quote

Paper Feeding Problems
■ If paper doesn't feed, remove it from the sheet feeder. Flip through the stack to
separate the sheets a little. Then RELOAD the paper against the right side, and slide the left EDGE guide against the paper (but not too tightly).
■ Do not load too many sheets at once. See your online User's Guide for more
information.
■ Do not load paper with holes punched in it

So i bought a dell INSPIRON n4050 in 2011 (i think, its been a while). Recently the hard drive died, other than that i have been perfectly happy with it. Anyways this strikes me as a perfect oportunity to upgrade it. But i need some information that i have been finding hard to find. I need to onow 3 things.

1. Is there a limit to the size an ssd can be for a particular machine?
2. The laptop has a removable cpu, is the only thing limiting what cpu i can put in there the socket it has? Or are there some other limitimg factors, like cpu generation or mother board or something that i have no idea about? The socket is a PGA988
3. What determines the ram limit? I have readt that the OS limits the ram, are there other factors as well?

I am confidant i can do the actual upgrades myself, i just dont want to be buying equipment i cant use.

Any help would be appreciatedThe Dell site can tell you exactly which CPU's it supports...and also what type and maxx quantity of the RAM.

SSD shouldn't be a limitation.Personally I would not go crazy updating a 2011 laptop. I would certainly get an SSD, as this will give you the most bangs per BUCK. You will definitely notice an improvement in start up time and general responsiveness. I did this to a 2009 Dell Latitude and it got a whole lot more snappy. if you do MUCH more than this, you will be spending more than the machine is now worth. At least you can use an SSD in ANOTHER machine later.

I have a HP F4400 printer/scanner that is several years old, but it has continued to work well so I'm trying to hold off REPLACING it. Yesterday, I inserted a new black cartridge (a genuine HP; don't think the date is expired). When the alignment page printed, it looked a lot different than usual. It is SUPPOSED to have various COLOR characters all over the page. This time, it had at one end an exclamation point in a triangle and a curved arrow, all in red, and on the other end, a few lines of blue characters. No other colors and nothing in the middle. I tried to scan it anyway and got a message that the alignment failed. I tried repeatedly to reprint the alignment page and the same THING happened. I also removed and reinserted the cartridge several times, tried rebooting the printer, went through the other suggestions on the HP troubleshooting link, but the same thing keeps happening. Also, the printer does still print, but the print quality is not great (presumably since I can't complete the alignment). I am trying to find out if the problem is with the printer or the cartridge, and if there is anything else I can do to get the alignment page to print properly so I can complete the alignment. Thanks.Replace the color cartridge and do the head cleaning also...

have a cloned refill but STILL GET error MESSAGE,have gone into control panel/devices and printers/epson 455 and printing preferences,maintenance,extended settings,unchecked "ENABLE epson status monitor" and still get "cannot recognise", etc etc so have epson stopped the use of cloned cartridges?
Probably so...HP did it years ago.

I recently tried to set up a Dial-Up server for my vintage computers and after reading some more about it, I decided to buy myself a cheap PBX from China. I managed to find two VERSIONS of the PBX in question. One that supports GSM, and the other one, which doesn't. My quesion is: If I plug in the Dial-Up server to one of the ports on the PBX, would I be able to access it from outside, via GSM?
Thanks in advance.Not to side track what you have planned, but curious if the games support serial connections between systems via null cable and if your plans are just to have 2 computers connect for older gaming that doesnt support natively connecting over TCP/IP.

My thought on this is if you want to have computers connected together with older communication protocols you might be able to use serial over ethernet adapters and rules in routers to allow two computers to connect via serial COMMUNICATIONS from vast distances. However this would only work for games that are 1 on 1.

Some older dial up games are connected to a server owned or leased by the developers of which that server was connected to a backend that allowed many dial-up connections to it, so that the game environment can have thousands of players playing on it. If you plan on having more than 2 computers connected then you would have to go the direction that your going I believe to achieve the goal of multiple systems connected. However while I have worked with serial over ethernet adapters to say that they usually work just fine as long as you dont have bad latency, I dont have the info on your original question to assist, but maybe someone else here has that knowledge to share and help.Thanks for your answer, but I didn't plan on using my setup for gaming. I wanted to connect multiple terminals to my network. For now I'm trying to connect them to my server(one at a time). Though, when I manage to set the server up, I might use it for gaming later. Cool. Curious what your working with for Vintage HARDWARE and OS?

Is it like a DEC Alpha or something else cool like that?

Sorry for assuming gaming, but most people who want multiple connections with dial-up that I have dealt with in the past it was to get old games going again WHEREAS they aren't supported for modern communication means so you END up having to get creative such as serial over ethernet to tunnel a serial handshake over a large distance.

Hello everyone,,
So my mother's old Inspiron B130 won't boot. Bios sees the HDD, RAN a diagnostic and get Error 1000-0146 on the drive. Then use dell diagnostic software and the HDD: passes Quick test, passes S.M.A.R.T. test but fails Read test giving error blocks.

I can boot to my personal XP install disc, GO to Recovery Console but forget what commands to run from the COMMAND prompt. I'll RESEARCH what files to copy from the DVD, but could anyone tell me if this hard drive is toast? Seems to me if it passes Quick tet and Smart it's probably just some corrupted files or sector blocks.

Thanks to anyone w/any words of advice. Very much appreciated,

CaptainCourageous
I wouldn't waste your time with a damaged hard drive unless you needed to recover data off it. To getting this computer back up and running healthy again I would install a healthy drive. If you want to save money you can find low cost refurbished and healthy used drives for sale. My rule of thumb with HDD's is if they do not pass 100% i give up on them and replace.

Hi guys,
I am sort of an advance user or nearly advance but not an expert or guru... I want to have an ALL-IN-ONE type of laptop with super high specs. This laptop, should it be windows base? Or Mack book pro type???
This laptop could do the following:
1.Gaming, heavy graphics
2.Audio and video editing
3.Should have high storage not less than one TB, highest possible RAM and graphics
4.Besutiful design and layout
5.And most impoetantly, can DUAL boot windows 10 and Mac OS (latest) and even linux (triple boot) like giving on: How to Triple Boot Windows 10, Hackintosh OSX Yosemite and Ubuntu at the following link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN8VIZM7lCQ
I do not want to use virtual box or firmware etc... Like one OS at a time that can use full resources of the machine, and I have to choose at the time of boot which OS I want to use.
ThanksYou have to have a Mac to run the Apple iOS.Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 08, 2019, 03:39:19 PM

You have to have a Mac to run the Apple iOS.

Running MacOS on a PC is not an officially supported solution and is technically in violation of the Apple EULA. It can work but it's not guaranteed to be stable, can take a lot of work to get it going/keep it running and could run into legal issues if used in any sort of business environment. If you need to run MacOS and need it to be stable then I'd strongly recommend an official Apple machine.

That said probably worth thinking if you do indeed need all OSs for any reason beyond "just because I can" - For example, for me I can do almost everything I need under MacOS. There's maybe one or two Windows only applications I use however I need to use them maybe at most once a month and since they are so low in terms of resource usage I just use a Windows virtual machine which has the added benefit of not requiring a reboot.

I have installed a world atlas cd to my computer and I get this error message--
The sound software is not installed properly or has been disabled.
For more INFORMATION see the README file installed with this program.
This title will now terminate. -- I cannot open readme file and I have sound in all aplications and other discs I play. I am running xp service pack 2 with 512mb ram. any help please.Check the read me file included with the atlas program.
It may not be compatible with your sound device or it may require an add on sound card to operate properly...
Post the full name of the program and maybe we can get to the bottom of this.Hi, I cannot open readme file. the disc is called EYEWITNESS World Atlas and is for 95/98/xp. and it said on it it needs 16-bit sound card to run. thanksGoogle, install and run the program Crap Cleaner and then retry. I have crap cleaner and run it every day. I still get this message. and the readme file wont open either.Do you meet all the requirements for this software? I think so it needs 16mb ram I have 512mb screen 800x600 16bit colour 45mb SPACE on hard drive I have 60g free 16 bit sound card---this I dont know. speakers/ or headphones and mouse.
Did you try reinstalling the program? I'd run Crap Cleaner after having uninstalled it. just a thought, but is the audio cable attached to the Sound card?
Cause now days you dont need it to often, but just a thought.If the readme is on the CD but not on your HD, hold down the shift key and insert the CD. Continue holding the shift key until CDrom light stops blinking. Use windows explorer to browse the CD and you should be able to read the readme. The installation should have put the readme on the HD.Hi, I got the readme file to work and this is what it said about it.-----

Eyewitness World Atlas 1.0 requires a sound card to be installed, as all the animations in the product are synchronised to run frame-by-frame with their accompanying soundtrack. If a sound card is not installed Eyewitness World Atlas 1.0 will not run. You should check that your computer has a sound card and drivers installed.

You should also check for the presence of WinG drivers in both the Windows and the Windows\system directories. They should only exist in the Windows\system directory. If you find any in the Windows directory you should delete them. The files to look for are:

wing.dll wing32.dll wingde.dll wingdib.drv wingpal.wnd

Restart your computer before trying to run Eyewitness World Atlas 1.0 again.----
well this is as clear as mud to me. anyone help please


Thanks all. I just got a patch from the makers and it will work now. apparently they had a lot of this problem and came up with a patch.

Thanks to everyone for the help.Ah, don't you just love it when the SOLUTION ends up being so simple?switchie...nice job taking the advice given and walking thru the steps to a RESOLUTION...it's refreshing to see once in awhile.

Good job and Welcome to CH !

Hello All,


I am Using Hp 15 DY000AU with Ryzen 3 2200U Radeon VEGA Mobile Gfx.

Below are some System Specs Acording to CPUz


Cpu ---> [MEDIA=imgur]cSA7XW7[/MEDIA]

View: https://imgur.com/cSA7XW7


Cache ---> [MEDIA=imgur]HySF354[/MEDIA]

View: https://imgur.com/HySF354


MainBoard ---> [MEDIA=imgur]xV4k8nM[/MEDIA]

View: https://imgur.com/xV4k8nM


Memory ---> [MEDIA=imgur]YKXCqk0[/MEDIA]

View: https://imgur.com/YKXCqk0


SPD ---> [MEDIA=imgur]HyuhZMU[/MEDIA]

View: https://imgur.com/HyuhZMU


Graphics ---> [MEDIA=imgur]X6VsQhD[/MEDIA]

View: https://imgur.com/X6VsQhD



My question is (In Indian Market, also PLEASE Suggest BEST Suitable 8gb Ram only from Flipkart)


Already a 4GB Ram is installed which shows DDR4 2666 single CHANNEL and

i want to buy an 8GB Ram so which one i should select 8GB DDR4 2666 Dual Channel(which is written on Sales page )

or 8GB DDR4 2666 Single Channel Ram (which is written on Sales page ).


SLOT 1 has 4GB Samsung Brand

for Slot 2 i would like buy 8GB Corsair Vengeance or Adata or Kingston.


Thank you.

I am ATTEMPTING to get hard drive INFORMATION from an old FreeNAS setup. It has a cut floppy ribbon cable (34 pin). In my interest to purchase ANOTHER to replace it, I have found several available on EBAY but they identify the cable as 'simulated'.

What is the difference between simulated floppy ribbon cable and 'non-simulated'?

Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/34Pin-simulated-floppy-drive-extension-cable-flat-ribbon-cable-55cm-21-65inch-BH/183912797270?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ad20e9456:g:LmYAAOSwobJcnevw&enc=AQAEAAAB4BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qWZehkqmp3TTMDE2GvetS%2FD96YjCwfQp8iYOo0Ii1UzjgraP2iAswvPcewe6oGvY1mbG%2BEuN2ZTdV5QHtYwELgY8SjK30zXOjwvckIsJBDIn4XVFxcLkL93wrNfaoRATAFMkl4rrz82MFIczuOMWMNVrzDoq6a4cULxFdZTLRxGITN43zjheiJJXJ8Ies9yVu7YlHZR1i1BRGzT0XXlQzaCLPkVVHadzZ03bU5oUvwYqTgZrGebfrZWBFraNi0dWqYTscGLueeYQs0dS0LR9xS1nMaZ0l4sRZFuhtQ65IfU6GWgC9MyDzxY9%2B9f%2FmzSjxqwJyBNtpLZ8tMt%2BgNZgxD3lb%2BWqrqTtmD7fGqk%2FtGfkGQ0morCSzTtcLvVvXdU5MonT0LTa0KZgxou5OMX4ZGPMeMuRX9gGAVqdWcv0tmTC4WCbgb6VFNKRWaKJBd%2BChn0%2FKfGGZH08WpZmgHkha5zFDWcxzhYhLdZBsm1T5A1gKsaUvtA%2FBNSrUPBvn%2FaIpFi6VK%2FiegAUh5je5boHULebuHTgC24N%2FLZ66Jjc6b8x984hlmqUTYuxHr%2FTAr6GNwdlj2uP1%2FmH%2B6oWnNBhP0Gjma4f5qLtCZsKdriEuUasg%3D%3D&checksum=1839127972708aefc801a0954b58876633852d2b40d9There is no difference...

HI All,

I want to know if I can use SSD drive on a very old laptop (Dell Precision M65). Please advise. Thanks in ADVANCE. Based on what I FOUND here: https://www.newegg.com/p/1TS-000A-021K4?item=9SIAA655VR8390&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googlemkp-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googlemkp-pc-_-pla-aventis+systems-_-notebooks-_-9SIAA655VR8390&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WTCCkCNwLL8adyCJ3Td0riWcNyiXh9OkuXafgHUZIQFDyB4UO49jE0aArVDEALw_wcB. Assuming you have the same laptop, then yes, you could upgrade it with an SSD.
If a laptop has a 2.5 inch SATA drive bay, you can put an SSD in there to replace a mechanical spinning HD. Crucial says: "Compatible SSD for Dell Precision M65: Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-inch SSD".

https://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/compatible-upgrade-for/Dell/precision-m65
Thanks guys. Appreciate your input.

I WOULD like to purchase a laptop or desktop that will allow the user to type documents or CREATE spreadsheet but it has no internet access or ability to pickup wifi. ANYWHERE I can buy something like that?Desktop would be fairly easy since they don't usually come with built-in wifi. As LONG as the built-in Ethernet port is disabled or cable not plugged in, there will be no internet access.

No matter what, a savvy user would be able to plug in a USB wifi adapter to be able to access wifi. The way to stop that would be to have a wifi password that the user does not have knowledge of.

Ok. I'm guessing formatting will delete everything?Correct...Ugh. No im getting the "location is not available. D:/ is not accessible. The parameter is INCORRECT error. I have run the chkdsk and keep getting an unverified error 3 hours into the check.Where you able to get your pictures and other data off this drive yet?

That drive could be unhealthy. ODD that its mapped as D: where as in my systems every time I add a drive where prior I had a C: drive for Hard drive and D: for Optical Drive it has always added the newly added drive as E:

D: can sometimes be a recovery partition of a system too which hopefully you didnt wipe out your newer systems recovery partition.

If your computer has a recovery partition as D: which is another partition to the original C: drive, and a DVD ROM as E: , then adding this 80GB SATA drive should map as F: drive as the newly added drive even THOUGH it was C: drive on the older computer. Additionally if the older computer had more than 1 partition on that drive you might see a F: and a G:

So curious if the D: drive is REALLY this 80GB hard drive or not?Got it! Got all my pics. Thank you for all the help. I eventually ran the chkdsk D:/f/scan and after an HOUR everything showed up! Im so happy! Thanks again to everyone here who helped!Kewl Beans ! !

Hi,

I have just installed a new (to me) monitor: an LG775N and installed the drivers that came with it.

Unfortunately I have multiple ghost lines RUNNING horizontally across the screen and ghosting off the desktop ICONS and the mouse pointer. These flicker slightly and seem to get worse as the monitor is switched on and off several times.

I have installed the latest drivers for my gaphics card and checked the screen REFRESH rate which is set to optimum.

PC specs:

Processor

20GB Hard disk,
Display LG775N Drivers installed

Graphics
Intel 82815 Graphics controller
V 4.0 (latest) software

Windows 98 SE
128 Ram

1Ghz celeron processor

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Is it the monitor's power supply?

thanks
iosmanYes it is the monitors power supply . As it is really old CRT and the there is life treating voltages inside you need to refer the repair to a qualified technician. Quote from: iosman on July 20, 2019, 05:46:19 AM

Hi,

I have just installed a new (to me) monitor: an LG775N and installed the drivers that came with it.

Unfortunately I have multiple ghost lines running horizontally across the screen and ghosting off the desktop icons and the mouse pointer. These flicker slightly and seem to get worse as the monitor is switched on and off several times . . .




I have installed the latest drivers for my gaphics card and checked the screen refresh rate which is set to optimum.

PC specs:

Processor

20GB Hard disk,
Display LG775N Drivers installed

Graphics
Intel 82815 Graphics controller
V 4.0 (latest) software

Windows 98 SE
128 Ram

1Ghz celeron processor

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Is it the monitor's power supply?

thanks
iosman

I need to CHANGE my laptop with Windows 7 which has a 64 bit hard drive. I've been offered a REFURBISHED laptop with Windows 10 but only 32 bit. What difference will there be in performance?Someone wants to trade a laptop that is running Windows 10 32-bit for your laptop that is running Windows 7 64-bit OS?

My issue with a Windows 10 laptop with 32-bit OS is that its likely that it only has 3GB or less RAM available and its PROBABLY also older than the laptop you already own so its probably a BAD trade. A laptop with Windows 7 64-bit usually has 4GB or more RAM.

There is more to performance than a 32 or 64-bit OS. What make/model is your current computer and the one that is a refurb with Windows 10 32-bit?

Personally I would try to find a laptop that is Windows 10 64-bit, because the 32-bit Windows 10 SOUNDS fishy as if its really old hardware and might not support more than 4GB RAM.

oke something to go off then. the thing is we already had a technician check it out a couple weeks ago, and he apparently also checked where the earth cables are connected and found no problems.
and he told me the internet here is bad, but thats clearly not the issue. god this is driving me crazy how is this problem unfixable? its actually insaneoriginally there were only 2 sockets grounded in the house and all my did did is connect the remaining sockets earth cable to the same spot.Hi again

I think it is worse having a high RESISTANCE ground than not having a ground CONNECTION. Did the technician disconnect the strap between the neutral and earth bars on the switch board and then check each socket back to switch board using a Megger. And from the earth bus back to the earth ground. If not then you still could have a problem with the wiring.the technician said there is a high resistance ground, and i dont know if he tested what you said.Glad we all agree on the problem now you just need to GET it fixed
I wouldn't use the same tech...he shoulda spotted the issue 1st visit if he was any good...

Best of Luck.So to fix this should i contact the technician again? An electrician should know all this and be able to advise what work needs to be done to make it right. I would be interested to hear the out come. i was on vacation so i havent contacted the technician.
before i went i used the only socket in the house that isnt grounded at all and see if it made a difference but it didnt.
This is getting OLD. To date nobody has inspection the electrical system in the house with the right kind of testers, It some cases the house wiring is so bad that it will cause wide variation in electric power.
This has been documented, but not something that happens to many people.
References.
tools used:
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Data-Logger-600VAC-DC/dp/B0086A4UJI
https://www.microdaq.com/data-loggers/voltage-current.php
examples:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/voltage-fluctuation
https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/5242027
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPHLxi9qBH8
Problem im facing here is that i dont have anything to give the technician, the one that was here didnt even understand the problem and probably didnt check that much because of it.One more idea. A workaround. Let's suppose there is an issue with the wires in your home. Rather tying to solve the problem, consider a workaround.

A backup UPS for you PC. This is a battery powered supply that will kick in within a few milliseconds.
Amazon has them, so do most PC supply stores.
Some are under $100 gave have enough spare power to run you PC for twenty minutes. Check and see if you can find one that will work in your region.



Quote from: henkiedenk on August 05, 2019, 03:00:46 PM

Problem im facing here is that i dont have anything to give the technician, the one that was here didnt even understand the problem and probably didnt check that much because of it.

One more idea. A workaround. Let's suppose there is an issue with the wires in your home. Rather tying to solve the problem, consider a workaround.

A backup UPS for you PC. This is a battery powered supply that will kick in within a few milliseconds.
Amazon has them, so do most PC supply stores.
Some are under $100 gave have enough spare power to run you PC for twenty minutes. Check and see if you can find one that will work in your region.

my system stoped booting. when i opened up i could see that when i switch on the system the cpu FAN rotates for around 4 to 5 seconds and then stops for 2 seconds and again starting. i changed the smps and still no difference. does any body has a CLUE that what may be wrongNot sure if smps is power supply but that would be my first swap out.

The main board shouldnt be doing this unless its cooked as for it is in a soft power state when power applied to computer and then wen keystroke or power button on computer is used it gets its signal from the soft power state and then boot to the normal operating state.

Causes for a shutdown would be voltage drop out or fan signal not detected as tach PULSE. However a system normally will not try to reboot itself this early in the boot process. Its usually an attempted boot and then it shuts down. However a troubled or overloaded power supply is capable of forcing the motherboard to boot and stop and boot and stop over and over again.

If you have already swapped out the power supply with a KNOWN good power supply then my THOUGHTS on this are that the main board has an issue with its soft power state when it tries to get it to the next step and drops back to trying again and again and this is likely a cooked board.

Any history of what lead up to this problem such as a bad storm or brown out and then it doesnt want to work, or it was running one day and stopped working in the middle of running to where it may have overheated or?Missing connection...double check all of them.

Hello,

I have a Lenovo M58p SFF. Basically I was messing around with the settings in Intel Management Engine and managed to disable ME State Control. After the system restarted, my cpu fan is SPINNING at full throttle and is quite lout. My Issue is, I cannot re-enter Management Engine, during the BIOS splash screen I have the OPTION to press ctrl+P to enter Management engine, but the screen just goes blank for a few moments and continues to boot to windows. I've tried resetting bios;reset CMOS;pull cmos battery and power CABLE; using cmos clear jumper;Flashing bios to the latest version; and nothing seems to work. So basically, what happened? Why can't I re-enter Intel Management Engine?

This is my MoBo according to Speccy

Motherboard
Manufacturer LENOVO
Model LENOVO (LGA 775)
Version ThinkCentre M58p
Chipset Vendor Intel
Chipset Model Q45/Q43
Chipset Revision 03
Southbridge Vendor Intel
Southbridge Model 82801JB (ICH10)
Southbridge Revision 02

thanks
iosmanHow did you re-set BIOS ? ?

I come home from a camping trip today only to find my computer completely turned off. i left it on over night but today it was all off including the power strip. this leads me to believe someone in my family was on it.

no big deal. i start to boot it up again but i can't get anything to work. the monitor doesn't get a signal from the computer (light on moni = AMBER) and it doesnt sound like my system is posting at all. upon further investigation i see that my cd-rw light is always on green.

there weren't any lightning strikes last night in my area and my computer has been fine being kept on over night before. mobo light stays on and all power is fed properly. what i think is causing the hanging is related to the CDRW light staying on constantly.

it is my understanding that this could be the tell-tale sign of my problem but what do you think? what does a constant light on the disk drive mean? any fixes?

thanks
iosmanHello iosman. Can you give a bit more info concerning your computer please. Is it PERHAPS a self built computer or purchased such as an HP, Dell, etc.? A model number would be helpful along with the manufacturer.

My first thought is a possible power supply problem but we can know much we need to know more about the computer. Thanks

Looking forward to possibly help you solve your problem.

GlenPower down...disconnect the CD drive and power up...
Betcha a Pint it boots proper.Quote from: iosman on June 28, 2019, 11:13:10 PM

I come home from a camping trip today only to find my computer completely turned off. i left it on over night but today it was all off including the power strip. this leads me to believe someone in my family was on it.

no big deal. i start to boot it up again but i can't get anything to work. the monitor doesn't get a signal from the computer (light on moni = amber) and it doesnt sound like my system is posting at all. upon further investigation i see that my cd-rw light is always on green.

there weren't any lightning strikes last night in my area and my computer has been fine being kept on over night before. mobo light stays on and all power is fed properly. what i think is causing the hanging is related to the CDRW light staying on constantly.

it is my understanding that this could be the tell-tale sign of my problem but what do you think? what does a constant light on the disk drive mean? any fixes?

thanks
iosman

I come home from a camping trip today only to find my computer completely turned off. i left it on over night but today it was all off including the power strip. this leads me to believe someone in my family was on it.

no big deal. i start to boot it up again but i can't get anything to work. the monitor doesn't get a signal from the computer (light on moni = amber) and it doesnt sound like my system is posting at all. upon further investigation i see that my cd-rw light is always on green.

there weren't any lightning strikes last night in my area and my computer has been fine being kept on over night before. mobo light stays on and all power is fed properly. what i think is causing the hanging is related to the CDRW light staying on constantly.

it is my understanding that this could be the tell-tale sign of my problem but what do you think? what does a constant light on the disk drive mean? any fixes?

thanks
iosman

Yes you can. If you do some work and are willing to used some used parts.
This has been a popular topic on You Tube.

Here are two of the best I have seen there. :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssZk5tGj2Is

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3YLtWcHyjE

What do you think?

Ludicrous...

What is your definition of a "gaming desktop" ? ?

Solitaire ?The biggest killer to that $200 budget is the cost of the Windows OS if done right. $109.99 for Windows 10 64-bit Home leaves remaining money at $90.01

If your lucky and know someone rich who money is no object maybe they would give away a decent used gaming system for free or $200.

I got a 3 year old used gaming system once for $80 of which the original owner had $800 into it. He spent $1200 on a new gaming build and didn't need the 2nd computer. I told him that I don't really need another computer either but he said he was short money to fill up his gas tank on his 1984 Dodge Van which drank GASOLINE with its 318 and needed some cash. I said all I have in my wallet is $80 but that computer is worth more than $80. He said $80 is plenty and thanks for gas money. I guess he had the wrong priorities spending all his money until next pay day on the new build and assumed that I would buy the computer and then he would have gas money. Well he was right I guess because I did buy it and it was a decent system back when 3.0Ghz Pentium D's were in gaming builds and it was blinged out with red glowing LEDs of the Fatal1ty Gaming Motherboard, and Core 2 Quads had just came out and he had to have that instead with a new video card as well.

Unless you find someone giving away hardware the $200 is way too low unless your playing older games or newer games that are not intense on hardware requirements.In the first video, The creator states that it is NOT worth the $200, He shows the system underperforming with current games, and explains that he had to buy a used Graphics card and a used Power supply- on top of the original outlay of $200, making it actually cost around $300, and even then only barely capable of playing the games he benchmarked.

In the second video the creator states that it would be nearly impossible to replicate what he was able to do because he got very lucky with deals on working used parts. He also recommended buying a stolen Windows 10 key from eBay. Either that or he's stupid enough to think that a $5 Windows 10 Pro key is totally above-board.

In any case, In general I'd say what you save in money you end up paying for with your time. Time carefully hunting down used systems or hardware and finding great deals. Time spent diagnosing faulty used components... Time spent, like the second guy did, using a jigsaw to mangle the case to get a graphics card to fit. If you wait long enough or are patient enough you can usually get a good deal on things that would under normal circumstances be more EXPENSIVE. As long as you are willing to take the risk on POSSIBLY broken used components or components that COULD have issues.While I'd always recommend just saving up for longer and spending more than $200, at that point the only real option I can think of would be to buy a used premade system and upgrading it with a dedicated video card. Ex-corporate prebuilts can be picked up very cheaply used (almost always cheaper than buying INDIVIDUAL used components to the same spec) and you'll likely get a Windows licence included.The premise of the Topic title is still ludricous regardless...Nice attempt, but it is not a real gaming pc.Let's make this an Ad-Hoc poll.
A low-end game DIY with new parts cots:
$200
$220
$245
$275
$315
$355

Have you ever? Just stop already Geek...

hi so after i launched fortnite my RIGHT monitor went black and said no signal and my left monitor turns like dark grey. i can still hear discord in the background but i cant do anything. i opened minecraft and was on for maybe a minute and the same thing happened. my cords all should work fine theyre all plugged in and everything. i think my drivers are up to date but im kinda clueless when it comes to this stuff so if someone could talk me through how to fix this that'd be great. specs copied from best buy that's where i got this last fall Windows 10 operating system 8th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-8700 processor 16GB system memory 1TB hard drive and 120GB solid state drive (SSD) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 graphics 16 gig ram 3.2 gigahertz processorHi
Sorry to hear you are having a problem with this HIGH spec computer. The most likely cause of the problem is the hard drive is running short of space.

Here is a link to show you how to CHECK hard drive space https://www.windowscentral.com/windows-10-check-free-space-hard-disk

For smooth operation you need about 20 GB free minimum.

Let us know if this is the possible problem if not there is other suggestions we can make.As far as GPU driver I would make sure you have the hardened version installed and not a beta version. A driver that ends in WHQL and listed as " Game Ready " is usually a safe driver to use that is hardened as its been THOROUGHLY tested.

There is a version 431.60 that I would update to, as for if you have an older version with a bug there would be a bug fix in this driver for it: https://www.geforce.com/drivers

Enter the information as seen in screenshot into the selection for manual driver selection and download and install 431.60 from nvidia is my suggestion.

So, I'm just having a normal day of using my PC. Its RUNNING very well, everything is nearly instant, games run smoothly, everything is picture perfect, nothing weird.

I wake up the next day, turn on my computer, only to notice that it is taking an extremely long time to load. Over 15 minutes, in fact. After it signs in, it takes another 5 minutes for everything else to load up. Chrome takes forever to load a page, all apps stop responding for the first couple minutes of opening it, my games that i play randomly freeze for about 5 seconds every few minutes, it's just horrible. I mean... Microsoft Windows stops responding... how does that even happen?? As I said, was working fine one day.. the next, unusable.

I did some research (Not too much as I didn't know where to look. I'm experienced with computers, but not experienced with the inside of one lol) I seen one suggestion that came up in multiple places. Something about my HDD needing to be replaced? I don't know anything about what's inside my computer, other than the graphics card which i installed myself. Anyways, the suggestions said that the HDD may have died or something due to old age, and also suggested to get an SDD instead.

So my question is, do you have any ideas why this could be happening? Do you think the suggestion I said above could be the issue? If so, what TYPE of HDD or SDD should I get? Are there only certain kinds that are compatible with my type of motherboard or will any work? Oh, I should also note that I did a complete factory reset on my computer and that did not do anything. So I guess that means it has to be somewhere in the hardware. But I don't know. And I also notice that in task manager, sometimes my CPU is at 100% and nothing works. Nothing can open or be clicked or anything, but it drops back down after a few minutes and my computer can at least run things. Just... still slowly.

I have a text file saved from Speccy so you can see all my computer specs and hardware. Is there anything else I should do or download which would help you find the issue to my problem? I can do whatever it is that will help me help you get this fixed.

Thanks so much in advance for any help. I really would like to use my computer but its a bit impossible with how slow it is. Assuming that you have an antivirus and it has come up clean with no problems after a full scan..


One thing to try is disabling Windows 10 Fast Boot:

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-windows-10-fast-startup

I have had before where somehow the last session gets corrupted in a way that the next boot causes the system to act slow and troublesome. Disabling this fixed my issue. And I was then able to reactivate this so that the fast boot could be used for a faster boot with now a clean session.

Under task manager when you look at the uptime it might tell you that your computer has been running for like 18 hours yet it has only been running for the last 15 minutes. This is because on shutdown with the Fast Boot enabled it writes the session data from RAM to Hard Drive or SSD so that the next boot of Windows it basically dumps all that data back to RAM from hard drive or SSD and causes it to be up and running faster. *However if there is a problem in creating this dump file or the last session ran into an issue, then it will inherit that issue into the next boot of the system and that is where this feature is problematic.

I saw you have 8GB RAM so no issues there. I have seen systems with just 4GB RAM have issues with yet another service called superfetch where Windows 10 uses all system RAM to store frequently used information and services, so looking at system resources it shows most of your RAM consumed. Windows is suppose to dump the data from this speed cache when RAM is needed, but I have seen where a computer will just slow way down and hard drive LED lit just about constant as this goes overboard with information being written to and from RAM to HDD or RAM to SSD. And disabling that superfetch service helps.

Here is how to disable superfetch to see if this will help:

https://www.technipages.com/windows-enable-disable-superfetch

Hi dgreen

There is many THINGS which cause the problem you are experiencing.
Could we have the COMPONENT details or the model.
Perhaps if you could POST some more pictures of the inside of the computer?.

Thank you

Hello All. I've been working on computers both desktop and laptops for 20+ years with great success but the aforementioned laptop has me stumped big time. That's why I'm here looking for help. Along with that perhaps I can help someone else too.

I'm not going to include any specs since I don't see how they would be related to this but I will supply if needed.

My problem is this....I was to replace the keyboard and if you've ever worked on one of these beasts you pretty much have to take it all apart to do so. In the process of that dis-assembly I unfortunately tore the little ribbon cable off of the on/off switch board. Bummer but no biggie right. I purchased a new one from ebay (all the numbers on it match the old one 100%) I plug it in to the connector, close the little clasp that HOLDS it in place and NO JOY! It does not come on even though I have power to the laptop.

Long story short, I MOMENTARY shorted out 2 of the connections on the mobo side of the connector (just like you can on a desktop mobo) and the laptop comes on and works fine.

Bad switch assembly perhaps? Nope, a 2nd purchase does not power it up. Bad connector? I purchased a REPLACEMENT mobo and same exact problem, will not power up from the switch but the momentary short across the mobo side of the connector turns the computer on.

Now I'm pulling my hair! Any thoughts, etc. etc. will be appreciated.

Glen (da_bassman)Are you sure the ribbon is inserted the correct way with contacts on the correct side? You can insert a ribbon wrong and nothing will happen. Try inserting ribbon the other way and it might fix your issue. One side has contacts and other side is just plastic backing!

If this isnt the issue then continue reading further...

Given that a short to the 2 pins boots it, its obviously the microbutton switch assy, given a motherboard replacement would have swapped the ribbon lock connection contacts.

If your able to take a multimeter and set it to continuity with a tone. Touch leads together and you should get a tone. Next hold carefully without damaging the test leads to the contacts of this ribbon disconnected from the MAIN board and have someone press the button switch and if you don't get a tone then the issue is these replacement part are defective as a tone should be heard when momentary microbutton is pressed in.

If unable to find a good source for these replacements, if your skilled at soldering small connections, you could run wire wrap wire to the leads on the motherboard to the 2 contacts of the microbutton switch and as long as the momentary microbutton is good it will fix the issue. You may need to run 2 or 3 more wires if the PUSH button has a LED that lights that is single-color or bi-color, and polarity would be needed to be known if you need to run those connections as well as for wrong connections with LEDs = LED wont light or LED will light with the wrong color if wired wrong pair on a bi-color Amber/Green etc. * Additionally there is a 2 lead type of bicolor LED as well that can show wrong color if wired backwards ... Bicolor LEDs are usually a white or clear color body to them and if unsure the troubleshooting guide for your laptop would be a good place to look as for it will state amber for a fault condition or a mode condition and possibly green or white illumination if powered on ready to run.

Here is the wire wrap wire that I use for running new connections for situations like what you have with very low current connection repairs.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/1446/1528-2005-ND/6827138&?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgNrb6bjJ4wIVRsDICh3o9gCPEAQYASABEgL-UvD_BwE

-If you can keep the temperatures under control gaming is fantastic on this thing

Cons: -This thing with stock settings will overheat on you; it's not necessarily Eluktronics' fault but instead it is Intel's 8750h design. I strongly recommend getting a program called Throttlestop (please do adequate research if you decide to set this up) to help bring down temperatures

Hi,

Can I upgrade my CPU on my laptop with a PC chip? And how to do that?

ThanksWhich Make/Model laptop?

Some CPU's and APU's are directly soldered to the motherboard and others have sockets. Only way to know is to share your info so we can look it up for you.

Laptop upgrades are very risky of having a dead laptop in the end or one that STARTS to overheat because a faster CPU or APU draws more power and creates more heat. Laptops are generally manufactured to stick with the same exact processor for the life of the computer and engineers design the heatsinks to handle that specific processors heat, so adding a faster HOTTER processor can cause troubles with a laptop that after upgrade is now overheating because the heatsink isnt able keep up with the extra heat to cool the processor.

Lastly you can run into a BIOS that doesnt support that CPU upgrade even if the motherboard has a socketed CPU or APU and if the manufacturer didnt use that motherboard for a faster line of laptops your then without a BIOS Flash to convert your system to the better models BIOS which supports the better CPU or APU.

Desktop computer CPU and APU upgrades are 10x easier and less likely for troubles. Laptop upgrades for CPU or APU have always fought me, some I had to revert back to the original processor and others COMPLAIN about Microcode error and require pressing F1 to CONTINUE because the BIOS lacks the true support for the better CPU but I run it anyways because its healthy even though it hangs at POST with Microcode error requiring F1 to continue. Then others fail to POST and have to be set back up with their original CPU or APU to get working again.

What he said. If you want to boost the performance of your laptop, upgrading the RAM and storage is a GREAT solution.

I have a laptop that I have been using for five years and it now lags so often that I can't work on it. I took it apart and found that there is only one HDD in it, so I was wondering if replacing the HDD with an SSD would speed up my computer?
My laptop module is HP Pavilion 14-al072txYes a SSD would speed up the boot TIME as well as lag in opening stuff would be far LESS. Games or anything else that lag for functionality though would remain the same with the other difference being that the load time of the software/game would be faster. SSD's also can increase systems speed by the fact that virtual memory needs are served back to the system faster and so less lag.Are there some recommendations for SSDs? And I might consider adding a memory stick.When it comes to RAM, I suggest buying a stick of RAM that is on the recommended RAM list of the manufacturers support page to avoid problems. Laptops can be picky with RAM sticks. I had a laptop recently that I had a small pile of RAM sticks all correct speed and type and it would only boot properly with one of the generic 4GB sticks. The others would start to boot and then power off before the bios splash screen. Yet all the sticks work and had been tested in a different laptop that was less picky to the RAM.

When it comes to SSD drives I suggest going with a good quality name brand DRIVE vs cutting corners in buying a cheap model of a questionable quality brand. Not to say that the cheapest SSDs are bad but if you want to avoid problems and the price difference is only like $50 or less between the better brand quality drive and the cheapie, I'd suggest the name brand that stands behind their product to avoid data loss as well as to avoid having to crack open the laptop all over again.

I have used some cheap questionable quality drives before in desktop applications where installing and replacing a drive is bad is a quick process. I have had mixed results with the drives lasting as well as having problems. I also have bought refurb SSDs back years ago when SSDs were more costly to GET the larger capacity for less and some of those drives are still working and others are dead. The name brand good quality drives I have only had one of them DIE and it was because it was heavily used and I burned out all the cells until it failed because it was used for video editing. The refurb and questionable brand/quality drives its a 50/50 toss as to getting a good one that will last or not for greater than 2 years of daily use. If able to buy new and good quality name brand I would as a suggestion vs cutting corners, especially since drives these days are so much more inexpensive than of years past.

I have Radeon GRAPHICS in HP laptop. Task manager Performance tab always shows 0% dedicated GPU usage. I have set high performance graphics for certain APPS in WINDOWS switchable graphics settings but none is able to use it.Is there a problem with the GPU with games ETC, that it shouldn't be STRUGGLING with and it is, or something like that or is it just the fact that it shows 0% the issue?Task Manager aint always correct...just sayin.
Quote

Task Manager aint always correct...just sayin.

My question is at the bottom. **
First a quick into for the general public.
Quote

In its truest sense, an SBC has referred to a single PC board with the processor, memory and some type of I/O that allowed it to function as a computer...
SBC generally refers to a microprocessor based board. But, just as in previous years, semiconductor manufacturers have often supplemented the launch of new products, especially microcontrollers, with development kits or demo boards that ENGINEERS could use to test out their newest silicon. These kits were generally used by professional engineers to test out the silicon for their next design. Once the necessary functionality of the microcontroller was confirmed, the designer went into laying out their own board to test out their proof of concept design

My HP Office Jet Pro 8600 keeps going offline!?!?! I was told to uncheck "Use printer offline", but is isn't checked at all. See ATTACHMENT. why does the printer keep doing this ? It is hooked up to my wireless NETWORK.


Thanks

Albert O. Maybe is the network unstable? You could put it on the STATIC ip address. You could put it out of the dhcp pool in the modem/router. Check for the latest firmware. Disable IP6 protocol in network settings. Check for the wifi PROTOCOLS (try with aes security and tkip security) and change channel (1, 6 or 11).

Hi

The model numbers are

ZP4000GM30023

and

ZP4000GM3A023

are those the exact same drives? (if so then why different model numbers) or is one model number a different/better version of the other? They both SAYS Firecuda 530 so they should be the same, I just wanna make sure I didnt make a mistake in PURCHASING. ESPECIALLY since one is listed as a Preorder which you can purchase while the other is just listed as "Coming soon" and you cant pre order or buy it anywhere.Sometimes manufacturers change the internal parts or firmware and change the designation. But, sometimes they don't. So, my guess is that they might be identical drives just internally they are different (firmware, controller etc). You could go for some "KNOWN" drive like SAMSUNG or crucial?

Hi! It’s me again. Seems like every year or so I come here seeking advice on a new desktop but never pull the trigger...still using my trusty old HP a1600 Media Edition. Well, this time I might actually do it and spring for a new desktop. I like the idea of a dual drive using the SSD to boot up and traditional HD for storage. My PC needs are minimal but I want a fast reliable machine, probably a Dell Inspiron with an i5 processor.

Considering I boot-up just 4-5 times per week, is the SSD worth an extra $150 or so? Thanks.I would definitely say so, it's not just the boot up time, having an SSD will also majorly improve the time it takes to load up applications and will generally make the machine feel much "snappier" - nowadays I wouldn't have any sort of machine without an SSD.Quote from: camerongray on May 07, 2019, 04:35:56 AM

I would definitely say so, it's not just the boot up time, having an SSD will also majorly improve the time it takes to load up applications and will generally make the machine feel much "snappier" - nowadays I wouldn't have any sort of machine without an SSD.

In my machines I only have SSDs but that's just because I don't really need that much storage on my local machines (the most I have is a 512gb SSD in my laptop) - All my large files are stored on a NAS which uses hard drives. If you need a large amount of storage for things like video and photo then there's no harm in having a hard drive as well but ideally you'd want an SSD large enough hold your OS and software then only use the hard drive for file storage.

Hello!
So around a year ago, I've bought a new awesome gaming RIG with a 3600X and a B450 board.
I haven't expected it to come that fast, but I've managed to put my hands on a new fast and cool PCIe 4 M.2 drive, and now I obviously need to get a new motherboard to support it.

My question is, B550 vs X570! since these two chipsets EXIST for some time now, I wonder what will be the better option.

First of all, ill probably use the board on stock SETTINGS (ill probably set up a fan curve and enable PBO, but unlikely ill OC the CPU.

I've found an X570 board (Aorus Elite Wifi) and a B550 board (Aorus B550 Elite), and the prices of both boards and PRETTY much the same (both around 200$ each, new in box, just not from an official store).

So what board should I go with considering the fact they are both new in the box? If that matter, my next upgrade to the rig will probably be a new Ryzen 7 CPU (either 3000 or 5000, depends on the price), and I might upgrade to 32GB RAM as well, adding 2 sticks to my current 8x2 3200Mhz setup or buying 2x16 kit 3600Mhz if I end up buying a 5th gen CPU.

Thanks to everyone who will be able to help me make a good choice!Really tricky question If you look on the budget then I would suggest b550. It still has pci4 but just for one graphic card and one for nvme / m2 drive. If you are satisfied with one drive (system nvme) and another the standard ssd (sata), then is ok.
X570 on the other hand has usually better option for powerfull cpus (like 5800, 5900 or 5950 amd). And maybe better peripheral support on the board.
But, if the price is almost the same...I would go for x570. And, some better b models are sometimes better than low cost x models.

Hey, so my pc compared to other builds that are identical, performs so poorly. I just got a gtx 1660 ti today, i installed the drivers, amd ryzen 5 2600, and g skill 8x2 gb ram. all parts only a few months old (other than gpu). The temperate stays cool. My fps compared to other builds, are at least 20 fps worse in every game. I DONT know what it is please help. IM about to give up hope.Are others overclocking whereas your RUNNING normal clock for everything? I have seen people look at benchmarks before who feel theirs should match but in the end its different because people overclocked their hardware to push for stronger benchmark scores. 20fps could be a 10% overclock. Additionally if you have a low cost main board it can have latent components on it whereas a higher end gaming board isn't so latent which affects the overall performance.

I ran into a surprise with my FX-8350 4Ghz 8-Core build when I wasnt getting the 4.2Ghz Turbo to happen. I ended up finding out that the board I purchased supported the FX-8350, but that Turbo was not available with that motherboard and so because of that my benchmark score was lesser than others because my low cost motherboard lacks Turbo support to get the 4.2Ghz clock and so it runs at 4.0Ghz. The motherboard wasnt returnable and the processor was fast enough as it was so instead of throwing away a healthy working $60 motherboard to then spend $100 more to get 200MHZ more of clock speed out of it with a board that supports the Turbo, I decided to just run it the way it is at 4Ghz.

I have an ACER Aspire 5 ES1 512 and an Aspire A515-55. Charger to latter died and I don't know the voltage of either of the batteries. I don't know what batteries they are. How can I acquire that info? I want to use the old good charger for the good new computer.Found is SEARCH:
Quote

Replacement Notebook Battery for Acer Aspire 5 A515-51-563W 7.7 VOLT Li-Polymer LAPTOP Battery (4810mAh/ 37Wh)

I have a personal video recorder Branded "Thomson JL 8006". Had it for a couple of years, so I dont know how old it is.
Recently I tried to replay movies that are recorded on the drive & the replay breaks up then continues & breaks up again.

1. Does anyone have any experience telling if this is the drive failing or maybe some other failure in the unit.
2. Can I transfer the recorded data to ANOTHER outside drive. ( it does have a USB slot on it. )

Many thanks.

ImnoGuruYou said:
"Recently I tried to replay movies that are recorded on the drive & the replay breaks up then continues & breaks up again."

That might mean the head has dust or grime on it. Use a head cleaner.Thanks Geek-9pm for the reply. I hadnt thought of that. I'll give that a go.

I had thought that there might be a power supply failing or the drive it at the end of its LIFE ( but Ive had other drives last much much longer that are still working WELL today).
I guess the only way to find out is to open the case ( to clean the heads ) & inspect all pc/motherboard connections & components while Im in there.
Looking for burnt offerings swollen capacitors etc.
It can be a can of worms. Hey maybe just an accumulation of dust.
Cheers Geek-9pm.I think geek may have misunderstood you to be asking about a *VCR*, not a DVR.

There aren't going to be any heads to clean on a DVR, and you can't get head cleaners for a DVR. After all, the only "heads" would be inside the HDD.

It does sound like the HDD Inside has started to fail based on your symptoms.

If it supports it (I can't seem to find a manual for that SPECIFIC model), you ought to be able to plug in a FAT32 formatted USB Drive and there might be a facility somewhere in the menus of the DVR to copy to it. (If you still have the manual I'm sure that would help too)

Usually you can open up and swap the HDD in a DVR as well.

Quote

So that method (Reinitialize Disk Surface) won't do anything? and if I want to try this method, do I need to CLEAR all the PARTITIONS related to the hard disk?

I saw on an article there is physical and logical damage when bad sectors happen, physical can't be fixed since the HDD maybe damaged because of dust or something like that unlike logical which can be fixed? I'm curious.

I have just tried formatting a compact flash card to be in Fat16, and have 2gb of memory. My camera cannot handle more, so that is why i NEED that. Somehow, in the process, the compact flash card got completely corrupted. i do not have any files on it, and i do not need to recover anything from it, i just need to get it to work. currently, i got the furthest using an app for managing partitions, but as i try to initialize the DISK, it fails. Apparently, there are no partitions on it, and diskpart DETECTS it as unusable, but I am sure that I haven't made anything that could completely kill it. Please help somebody D:
here is a photo of what diskpart has to sayHave you tried the clean command after selecting the disk? See if that gives any errors.I have,it gives an error. Doesn't matter anymore tho, i have returned it to the store as FAULTY. Do you know how do i end this thread?

And again...STOP QUOTING PREVIOUS POSTS...it's unneccessary....

okay just recently we had a pretty strong power outage and since then I have had to reinstall Windows five or six times first I used Windows 8.1 which I normally do and this last time I tried Windows 10. I have not gotten the bsod for this desktop computer for the lifetime I've had it at least 3 years it's an Asus motherboard with an Nvidia GeForce 610 video card and an AMD 8 core processor and I'll include the specifics later on in the post but this has been the most trying bsod I have ever gotten. of course it first I try and disconnecting the CD ROM drive extra hard drives any non-essential hardware to no avail but one interesting thing is that when I removed the video card and try to use the onboard graphics it instantly gives me the blue screen of death every single time it boots up. I have also I looked inside the power supply cleaned it up a little bit because it's a 600-watt psu. I've already ordered a new hard drive fixing my gut is telling me that it might be the power supply that the computer works okay for a short. Of time when I switch PCI Express video CARDS. It's also weird that when I put Windows 10 on there it QUIT detecting one of the other hard drives but with Windows 8.1 it usually to text both of them and the CD-ROM drive. Any help would be appreciated when I CHANGE things in the bios that don't work I use a jumper to clear the BIOS completely and I just start start new. It is an Asus M5 A78L-M LE/usb3 mobo, evga Nvidia get force 610, Sony dvd-rw, 2x 4gb crucial hyper x ddr3 PC 10600, kentek pspk600 600 w PSU with 24 pin plus 6 pin for video, zocet 942 or am3 with a amd 8 core CPU.

I've been having this issue with my computer recently randomly in use. I'll usually get no signal on my monitor or it will freeze, fans spin up and stays on but frozen like that. Until I hold the button. Then it will boot fine. It also happens much more consistently when trying to reboot the pc. It doesn't seem to freeze in the BIOS, exiting BIOS when it restarts it will. But not when fully shutting down and powering on again.

So far some of the things I've tried are:
Tried resetting windows. Updating drivers and BIOS 5.50 to BIOS 5.90. memtest and harddrive health seems fine. Changing FAST boot and things. Temps seem fine in HWInfo and doesn't crash in reaction to stress testing. Disabling OC and clearing CMOS.

I did have my motherboard die and I had to RMA it for a replacement fairly recently. But I had no problems initially with the new motherboard.

Computer specs and things:
Windows 10 pro 64bit
AMD Ryzen 5 1600
Patriot Viper 4 3400mhz 16gb (2x8gb)
ASRock AB350M pro4 (5.90 BIOS)
XG2703-GS monitor
MSI gtx1070 armor 8gb OC
Corsair TX650M 650 watt Power supply
1x m.2 ssd
1x Sata ssd
2x HDD
Hi,
First note the TIME a problem occurs then when you are back in windows check the event viewer as explained here
https://www.digitalmastersmag.com/magazine/tip-of-the-day-how-to-find-crash-logs-on-windows-10/
Check for events which happened at the noted time.
There is an option to get help on errors or you can copy and paste the error here for advice.
Most common seems to be
Event ID:35
https://justpaste.it/7kyxg
Performance power management features on processor 11 in group 0 are disabled due to a firmware problem. Check with the computer manufacturer for updated firmware.
On processors 1-12

There's also
Event ID:
41
https://justpaste.it/44dmw
35
https://justpaste.it/78a1t
6008
https://justpaste.it/437j3
4101
https://justpaste.it/26139
Which seem to be cropping up a lot.

And less common
29
https://justpaste.it/3i9ix
1001
https://justpaste.it/5a39s

and 10016https://imgur.com/OGelh5J
Froze at 8:30 so 4101 display driver stopped responding seems the closest in time.Thanks for the errors.

I'm just interested in what was wrong with the original motherboard?

I think we have more than a few things to fix.

First is to get a stable base which is not coming up with errors.

Get a pen drive and download the latest drivers for the motherboard unzip them to the pen drive if you get a 32 GB pen drive drive would be great.

So remove the Graphics card and use on board graphics, this is just to test.

If windows boots and works without the kernel power errors great. if not then reload windows clean i.e hold the shift key down and select restart on the restart screen select repair my computer reload windows deleting all data. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ANY IMPORTANT DATA BACKED UP FIRST

From the M2 drive this should take about 5 to 10 minutes.
Now load the latest drivers and test is it working if not then disconnect the 3 other drives and just use the M2
Is it working? If not then you will need to look at the bios settings or the motherboard and all the things associated with the motherboard.
Keep us posted


The original motherboard. I left my pc on overnight in sleep mode. And then found it wouldn't turn on. Eventually after a lot of testing I figured it was the motherboard. But it was just dead don't know exactly what was wrong with it beyond that. When I replaced it I thought it was the end of it.

I already reset windows and installed new drivers so it should be a fresh system.
I also tried rolling back to old nvidia drivers. But I'll try without them installed.
I'm Currently testing some old ram to try and rule that out. I'll try with just the M2 drive if it freezes again now.With the new ram it hasn't frozen in use as of yet. But it froze once when restarting. And my pc randomly restarted which hasn't happened before. In event log there's 6008, 41, 10016. Around the time it restarted.

Event id 35 also seems to routinely appear regardless.
I read that event ID 35 was related to disabling BIOS power saving features, but after resetting bios I'm not sure why I'd still be getting that error. Or what setting that would specifically be related to.


Edit: Froze in use again the same way it was doing initially with the screen shutting off and the fans spinning up and freezing like that.
The speccy server is working can you download a copy of Speccy from here http://www.ccleaner.com/speccy
After it creates the report go file / publish snapshoot and post the url link here. Don't copy and paste the whole report here.

If you could also post some photos of the bios screens and I will check them.http://speccy.piriform.com/results/llMSzzaK8MFdZbRsGnvbYtG

I disconnected the other drives apart from the ssd. Reseated the GPU and have the computer plugged in to a new outlet and peripherals. I've borrowed a friends computer so I can try a different GPU if it freezes again now.


I haven't had event 35 again. I did reset the cmos again. Maybe why?Nice, a fellow Kiwi ,
The Speccy report shows a clean running, no problem pc. But there is stuff all over about the ASRock AB350M Pro4 having freezing resetting problems. Perhaps the only solution is to get a different motherboard.
Perhaps return it and spend a little more for one of these boards
ASUS PRIME B450-PLUS ATX For AMD Ryzen 2nd/3rd Gen, Socket AM4. B450, 4X DDR4 DIMM, 1XM.2, 1XPCIE X16, 2XPCIE X1, 5XUSB, HDMI/DVI, LAN, Internal I/O: 1XUSB3.1, 2XUSB2.0Oh funny that we're both from NZ.

Weirdly so far it hasn't crashed again and the event 35 hasn't shown up again. But it did freeze when restarting once. So not sure what to think as of yet.
I was WONDERING if perhaps it was power related. Seeing as causes for 4101 the display driver thing one of the common ones is apparently power related. And 35 was processor power related? But I don't know for or if it was whether it'd be wall power, power supply or motherboard power delivery? Maybe I'm just making a leap with that though.

Not too familiar with PC’s so this is something I’m not 100% on, just wantin clarification as to what it is? SMALL black rectangle LOOKS a LITTLE bit like a drone with white text saying BOX

Hi. Recently, I was able to buy a pen drive. As I PLUGGED it to a computer, it was fine and the computer was able to detect it. Then, I put some files into it, just a DOCUMENT (docx) file and some images that I placed in a folder.
The time came that I had to plug the pen drive again to another computer for printing. But when I opened the docx file, a small window popped up that said the file might be corrupted, therefore, I wasn't able to print it out.
Then, I tried to put other files into it, specifically, movies, songs and a presentation (pptx) file. But it's still the same. Those files I put were corrupted.
Also, the folders I made doesn't DISAPPEAR when I try to delete it. The files in the folders gets deleted, though. I tried to reformat it but the problem remained.
Is there any way to fix it? I'm a student and it's really inconvenient. Need some help. Please Sometimes flash memory dies. Also some pen drives that are sold are fakes, POOR quality, factory rejects, etc. You can test a pen drive with software like Checkflash

http://mikelab.kiev.ua/index_en.php?page=PROGRAMS/chkflsh_en

Replace it...not worth tryin to figure out whats wrong...

They DONT cost alot these days....

Hello, firstly I am not the greatest when it comes to PC's. I have spent a while trying to understand myself however I am still no closer to understanding.

I was about to order quite a decent upgrade for my PC when I heard of SOMETHING called bottle-necking?? I was about to buy a GTX1050 Ti.

Would this be able to work with an AMD A6 6400K? or will I need to upgrade. If so any ideas what CPU I COULD buy which would still be compatible? My CURRENT motherboard is a GA-F268HM-HD2.

I also have just SOLD my GT 1030. Would this have been bottle-necking as well?


I APPRECIATE any help.
Thanks.

I have had a bad battery for a long TIME that will not charge up. If I don't have it plugged in, then the computer shuts down instantly. I bought a new battery. Nothing much better. The new battery would only charge up to in the 30% range at its best. Suddenly, STARTED getting things like cannot FIND disk or something like that during boot. I COULD shut it down and the next time it would be normal. Much later on, started getting invalid configuration -time and date not set or invalid. I went into bios and changed it. Everything was fine, but then if I cut the plug, and turn it back on..........same problem again. Then another issue, when I give the laptop power again by plugging it in......it turns right on without me pressing down the power button? I looked into the bios for boot SEQUENCE and things....can't figure that out. I've thought that maybe a virus could have caused some of this? I bought a new Cmos battery but don't have it yet. I run windows 7 professional and my laptop is a dell lattitude e6510. This will continue til the CMOS battery is replaced...