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Hi There,

My monitor gets a black blank SCREEN with "out of range" error message, but only when I play 3 of my games. I can play the trail versions off of some websites, but cannot play the same games off of other websites. I bought the full games which are now causing this problem. I know the easy answer is don't play the games, but if there is a way to fix this I would love to know. When I get the blank screen and the " out of range" message I cannot get to my controlls so I have to try " escape" or Alt, Tab failing that I need to use " Alt,Control, Delete" as this is the only way I can get a picture back.sometimes that doesn't work so I have to switch the computer off from the wall socket which I hate to do. I have re-set the monitors colour and resolution lower, but that didn't help.
Sorry it's long winded
DmouseYour monitor can't cope with the resolution settings that the games are asking of it. DO those games have a configuration program? If so, you may be ABLE to lower the resolution before you play. If not, you'll probably get better results with a newer monitor. Did you check the game specs? Do they require a minimum resolution? DOes your monitor support that resolution?>:(I'm very frustrated. For some reason, I cannot get an rpm package to extract where I tell it to. I keep getting this message:

"Could not open "XFCom_i810-1.2-3.i386.rpm"

Archive type not supported."

I'm running ubuntu linux on a DELL Optiplex GX150. The package I'm trying to open (no matter how or where I DOWNLOAD it from) is the intel 815E video driver. I need it because ubuntu cannot resize my desktop to any lager than 640X480p @60Hz! Please help! I can't see EVERYTHING on screen, and I did this before, even if it is not working now Wampus, please start a new thread in the correct forum (Linux, in this case) rather than hijacking this thread.

ecs MB K7VTA3 pro, 512 meg Ram, AMD 2500+ running 98se, 2k and xp pro on seperate partitions

Tried to flash bios in order toimprove FUNCTIONALITY, (successfully done before on various machines). It stalled and on TRYING to reboot I got :
Award BootBlock BIOS v1.0
Bios Rom checksum error

I could access the floppy after clearing the CMOS but EVERY attemp to reflash the bios (with 720bff06.bin and K7V330D.bin) failed with the message 'unknown flash', although it gave a checksum.
Gratefull for any suggestions to get out of this catch 22!
EdYou'll need to check the BIOS vendor's website for suggestions. OCCASIONALLY you may be able to get away with downgrading the BIOS. Generally though, you've had it, unless you own special equipment that you can use to resolve this issue. Sorry.Another DEAD motherboard from a BIOS upgrade, I'm afraid.

The problem ive been having lately is a problem i THOUGHT was with my monitor, but when i changed from a CRT to a 17'' Flat screen, i REALIZED this is probably not the CASE. When i'm on my computer, sometimes things will freeze up for a couple of seconds, the monitor will go black, then come back on and everythings normal again for a few minutes. Sometimes things dont even freeze up, it just goes black then comes back on....whats the deal....What are the specs. of your computer? How much RAM? Have you TRIED updating your video card drivers? Which operating system are you using? When did this start? Have you made any changes to your system recently?

Flameintel pentium 4
2.8 ghz
about 780 mb ram
nvidia geforce xfx 5200 video card...

i thought about updating the drivers...i guess ill try that..

im running WINDOWS xp home
this started about...a week ago
and no, i havent made any changes to my system latelyDo you have virus and Spyware protection? Try updating your card drivers by going to the card manufacturer's website.

Flame

I'd like to start by saying "thank you" for the help I have received in the PAST, more recently with my difficulty reinstalling Windows after wiping my laptop hard drive clean. Thanks, all and thank you, BackDated, in particular.

I'm writing today to hopefully engage your help with the following problem affecting my desktop (not the recently reformatted laptop). Sudddenly, my cd/rw drive is not working. It will not play anything. Not only is it not working, it's a blank screen in the Windows SYSTEM Info window. It does not even appear in the list of storage devices one sees when exploring "My Computer". However, my AIDA 32 summary tells me that I have a SONY CD-RW CRX230EE OPTICAL drive (which worked fine until yesterday). The computer has not been moved, no hardware has been installed, nor have successive scans by Webroot Spy Sweeper, McAffee VirusScan Enterprise, Microsoft's own malware removal tool and SPYBOT indicated any problems.

How can I get the drive back? Here are some specs on the computer in case:

OS Microsoft Windows XP Professional, Version 5.1.2600 Service Pack 2 Build 2600

Processor x86 Family 6 Model 8 Stepping 1 AuthenticAMD ~1505 Mhz

BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. P2.00, 10/28/2004

Total Physical Memory 512.00 MB


Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Have you or anyone else opened the case recently, touched any cables? Probably not, but let's exclude the obvious first. Second, how long have you had that drive? Unlike me, drives have lives, and do die. If it's relatively new, we can scratch that one as well. If not, we can KEEP that idea in the back of our minds.nope, no one has moved it or opened it. i've had the unit for close to 3 years now. i use the drive minimally, basically to install software and, very rarely, to listen to music. never used it to burn anything, for example...

thank you for taking the time to respond.

The drive can be recognized in windows and still not be functional. THe ideal way would be to try that drive in another machine to see if it works. At 3 years of age, even with light use, it is suspect.

I would delete the drive in device manager and reboot the machinne. What happens now?

I am trying to listen to sounds on the internet. I can't look at anything that requires sound, and/or use the realplayer or anything like that on my laptop. I called a PC repair shop, and they said that it had something to do with my sound card, but I have no idea how to look at my sound card and check it out, etc. I can usually find stuff, but I am totally dumb when it comes to the sound part. I downloaded an update for realplayer and it didn't work and then I deleted it. I don't know what to do. Can someone help, please? :-?Uninstall Realplayer.
Download & install Realplayer Alternative.
Come back if you still have a PROBLEM after that.It didn't work. I guess my sound card is shot. What else would you suggest? Anything?What make and model is this card? Have you tried updating the drivers for it?

FlameI have not a clue! :-/ I have the computer for college, and everything that I have done in the past 3 years, I haven't had a problem figuring out, but I don't know anything about the sound.Check your Device Manager for Xs and !s.
Start>Settings>Control Panel>System>Hardware>Device Manager.

Download the trial version of Everest to find out what soundcard you have.
http://www.lavalys.com/I say, goto WALMART or some store of the sort and pick up ONE of those $30 external USB sound cards and try it out. If it works, take that PUPPY. If it doesn't, just return it. A PC repair shop would charge an arm and a leg if you wanted them to open it up, do a diagnostic, replace something, etc. If the sound chip is bad, then you are SOL, unless you want the external USB solution (not very portable, but whatever0.

you nened to look in device manager and see what it is, and if there any exclamation marks by it. you may want to download and run Everest Home Edition to positively identify it.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

Hey,

I just purchased a Radeon X800GTO IceQ II Turbo 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 video card and it came with an overclocking program. I have a Dell 4700 Intel Pentium 4 CPU 3.00GHz, 512MB RAM computer.

Based on my SYSTEM, and the card itself, is it wise to run the overclocking program? I'm not even really sure what an overclocker does except increase GHz on the card or maximize bus speed...something like that. I also know it can cause heating issues. If its safe, I would like to run it; better graphic performance is always a good thing.

Could someone please tell me what an overclocker does and the best WAY to go about it, if it is safe?Overclocking that card WILL NOT produce any better results, maybe 2-4 FPS at most. Why? Because that card's pipelines are already bombarded with tons of instructions whenever your playing games, so OCing MIGHT lead to crashes ect. There's lots of guides online if you search though, I haven't played around with ATI cards however.A hard core overclocker doesn't use SOFTWARE to achieve results. I agree that the gains are minimal if any, and there are risks to doing more than an item was designed for.

Hi, I own a Compaq PRESARIO 5000 and was wondering where would be a good place to buy a mother board and if compaq would be the only ones who would have it?How much money you got?

I reccomend building a new computer from Newegg!

Unless of course, your strapped for cash...Generally, if it's a Compaq or HP, forget it. There are just too many anomolies when it comes to case and PSU etc.If you're REPLACING the motherboard because of technical failures...call Compaq to see if you can buy a new one of the same model, I IMAGINE you can.
If you want to just get a new motherboard thats NOT Compaq, you'll have to get more than that. I did the same thing with my Dell. All the major companies make motherboards that only except their own power supplies, and fit their own case. In other words, if you want a different motherboard, you need to buy another power supply and another case...and *censored*, by that point your halfway there to building a new computer practically so might as well go all the way. The only thing thats in my computer from my OLD Dell is the processor. And I plan on building a whole BRAND new one semi-soon.You'll pay much more for that REPLACEMENT board through Compaq than a real one would cost. yoou could probably get a case AND board. But let us know what the estimate is.

:exclamationI want to set up my computer with multiple monitors. My problem is that I can't get the computer to recognize both the onboard video card and the slot video card simultaneously. The only way it will even recognize the onboard card is if I PHYSICALLY take the slot video card out. My computer is a HP Pavilion 325c. The onboard card is a ProSavage DDR KM 226. The slot video card is a NVIDIA GeForce2 MX 100/200. Please HELP and thank you in advance. :exclamationDepending on your BIOS, it could also be possible that the onboard video gets DISABLED as soon as another VGA card is in the system. If you have, or can get, documentation on the BIOS features/settings for your motherboard, read through it and search for info on BIOS settings for video function.

If you can't get your computer to work with the GeForce2 MX 100/200 card installed, this probably means you'll need to access the CMOS Setup utility, where you can change BIOS settings, and disable onboard video. Assuming your NVIDIA GeForce2 MX 100/200 card only supports one monitor, you'll have to get and install a second video card. Or, you could discard your NVIDIA GeForce2 MX 100/200 card and get a card that supports two monitors.

I believe your system has an AGP slot. So, if your NVIDIA GeForce2 MX 100/200 card is a PCI card, you can get an AGP card and install it along with the PCI card, and vice versa.

I run dual monitors with two video cards, one AGP and one PCI. Both cards are nVidia chipsets. The NICE thing about both cards being nVidia is that they use the same driver. The computer will automatically run off the GeForce2 MX 100/200 if it is in and SWITCH to the onboard video card if it is out. I will go check the BIOS. Thanks.OK, then I'm betting your motherboard won't let you use both onboard and a separate video card at the same time. Therefore, you'll have to either install a second card or replace your GeForce2 MX 100/200 with a card that will support two monitors, such as PNY VCGFX55PPB Geforce FX5500 128MB 128-bit DDR PCI Video Card - RetailI was hoping to not have to spend any money. All well. Thanks anyway.I'd consider ebay and option. Something like this: Apollo Geforce4 MX440 SE PC 64MB DDR PCI Video Card. I had a Geforce4-MX440-SE (AGP version) in an older computer. Assuming the bidding does not go too high, would be a good low cost option for you.

hii ... am new here ..
need ur help !!
i was facing a problem as follows ... wn ever i start my pc it gets restarted again n again .. (restart as if by restart button on cabinet). after some tries wn pc doesnt restart for smtime then it continues to work as long as its nt turned off ... i.e re-start problem sirf starting mein aati hai - ek baar thori der TAK chal jaye to chalta rehta hai !!

by this restart problem .. my windows got currupted n i then formatted my c: n installed XP again ...
now the problem has changed .. in place of restart computer freezes-- screen freezes , mouse freezes, keybrd freezes n e'thing .. wn this happens cabinet's red LED (that represents buzy state of pc continuously glows). also there's a small sound from cabinet (like rat's) wn pc freezes !!
this problem is also at start only ...
can somebody tell me wts this problem and how'll it b solved ... is it a problem of SMPS or wat ?

-----
i dont kno if its reqd or nt but here's my pc config : celeron 2.4 Ghz , 256 mb ram, 40 gb hdd, running wind XP-SP1.

plz do share if u kno how can i solve this problem ..
thx !!
Run memory and HARD disk diagnostic TEST.
Use [highlight]MemTest[/highlight] and for the hard disk test, download the diagnostic tools from the manufacturers website.Try to work on your English as well. It's hard to follow all this text message gibberish. THANKS for the help ... i'll c for these diagnostic tools.


to describe my problem in one line is ... 'wn i start my pc it keeps on restarting again n again n after some of these restart sequences it gets stable n can work for long hours w/o any problem'

other problem is same ... just replace the word 'restart' by 'freeze' !!!

and i dont think tht its hard to u'stand the problem ... yeah it was hard to describe it

Quote

and i dont think tht its hard to u'stand the problem

We went on a short, 2 day, vacation and my wife unplugged her computer since we live in the LIGHTENING capital of the world. Upon our return she plugged in the computer and pressed the button. Nothing happened. No fans, no boot. I opened the computer and a greeen LED on the motherboard lights when I apply power to the computer. It is a EMachines about 1 1/2 years old running XP. Could the battery cause this problem? If so, what do I need to do to correct it.Sounds like you're power supply is about dead. How many watts is it? It should say... All you need to do is go buy another one from a computer store with the same wattage, and replace it.

FlameThe power supply wattage is 250W. I had a spare 100W supply byt the P8 plug was different so I couldn't even attempt it. What about the plug array? Shouldn't I be concerned about P8 which plugs into the motherboard?You might want to TRY reseating the RAM.Reseated RAM........No change.
The battery is not the issue, but the power supply may be. You will need to get an appropriate replacement. Check witth eMachines to see if this is some sort of proprietary unit, or try with a known working one of SUFFICIENT wattage and plug type.If I have a 250W power supply, can I go larger? Say, 300W. I went to Newegg and they have them there and the plug arragement looks the same as the one I have. Any suggestions on a brand that you have had good results with? The one that I have is Bestec.EMachines website indicates that I should change the cooling fan for the processor when I change the power supply. Sound right?Probably correct, especially if they recommend it. 350 w is probably the minimum to look at. Antec or Thermaltake are good brands. Usually with PSU's you get what you pay for. The Bestec was dirt cheap. That's why they used it. Some manufacturer's, like Dell, have proprietary power supplies. That's why I ASKED. At least Newegg has a good RMA policy if it doesn't work. I received and changed the power supply and cpu fan. STILL no thing happens when I press the button. Any other ideas?

The install of a USB WIRELESS card failed with errors and have been unable to boot since because the AMI BIOS sits on Automatic recognition of the hard drives, and is unable to find them. Auto cannot find either the HDDs or the CDs on secondary.

None of the FIXED configurations are LARGE enough for the 80 GB drives, so cannot use them as a workaround.

Floppy BOOTS fine, so am not completely DEAD in the water.

It is a Mainboard ECS K7S5A motherboard, and BIOS settings are valid (checked them against a duplicate system which has no woes).

How a failed install could cause this beats me, but am now stuck with a fully capable but non-functional machinee.

Any suggestions on how to proceed would be appreciated.

Thanks,

JP

Hi--I really like the dual-DVI feature of the XFX GeForce 6600GT graphics CARD. However, it doesn't have VIVO.

I know VIVO means Video In Video Out, but what exactly am I MISSING by not having it?

What would be an example of how VIVO would be used?

Thanks for any replies!Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's if you want to send your computer's video (your desktop and anything you would SEE on the monitor) to a TV or projector.

FlameVideo In Video Out, usually seen as the acronym VIVO, enables video cards to have bidirectional (input and OUTPUT) video transfer through one connector, by using a specialised splitter cable. VIVO is commonly pronounced "Vee-Voe", but other pronunciations are in use.

VIVO is featured on some video cards, such as the Nvidia GeForce range and the ATI Radeon series. It can receive input from RCA or S-Video sources, and typically moves output over RCA, less commonly over S-Video. However, at this time, S-Video is more widely used for VIVO by both Nvidia and ATI.

Some VIVO cables also support the output of component luminance, and 2x chrominance, enabling HDTV support. However as this connection is not digital it does not support HDCP which would be required for official HDTV support as set out by the EICTA.

google makes me sound smart.

so summed up, u can watch tv on ur monitor, and u can also watch ur monitor on tv.Quote

Hi--I really like the dual-DVI feature of the XFX GeForce 6600GT graphics card. However, it doesn't have VIVO.

I know VIVO means Video In Video Out, but what exactly am I missing by not having it?

What would be an example of how VIVO would be used?

Thanks for any replies!

hi to all, shiwa here..my cd-rom has just stop reading cd's..i checked the DEVICE manager but it says that the device is working properly but whenever i inserted cd's, it just won't read em'....as we all know in windows xp, it will automatically detect when you insert a cd, but now, its no longer working..

my cd-rom is 1 year old now and i know that i haven't used it heavily or burn a lot of cd's from it...i just wonder why it just stopped working or reading cd's....

what COULD be the problem? is it possible the wiring connections inside? what should i do to remedy this problem.. please, i really need advice..thanks guys...If no one has been inside the machine where something could be knocked loose then either the optics are gone or the lens is dirty. You could try a cleaner (sold at MANY stores) for it, or just GET a NEW drive. They're very inexpensive.

As another experiment, go to Sontrol Panel/System and delete the CDROM drive from the list and reboot. This probably won't fix it, but it is a free try.

Hi.

I'm new here but I hope you can help.

I have an older system, with a Hansol 920P monitor and a Nvidia GeForce 2 Integrated Graphics card. Because my monitor's old the brightness is maxed but still not bright enough so I tried setting the graphics card.

Went to Start/Control Panel/Display/Settings/Advanced/Colour Correction.

Then I set the brightness/contrast settings to weher I WANT them and "Saved as". I also checked the box "Automatically apply these settings at startup", and exited normally.

However, the settings revert to the original default every time I start and I have to go through the same procedure each time, finding and activating the saved settings.

Can anyone tell me why it won't startup with these saved settings?

Many thanks.

AllanIs monitor replacement in the horizon? You might also think about installing a video card to replace your onboard video.Neither at the moment.

I'm an avid flight simmer and graphics presentation is all important.

I'd like to CHANGE to a flat screen but there is a divided opinion on the minimum spec for reasonable results.

Similarly, the jury is out on which cards perform best, especially at the lower end.

So, until I can GET definitive answers, or the money improves, it's staying with the same set-up.

Just don't understand why the graphics card settings aren't saved for startup.

AllanYou might download and INSTALL ForceWare software for NVIDIA® GeForce. Let's you save profiles. Then, you could just enable the profile containing your saved video preferences.

You might also look for a driver update from nVidia. I presume their drivers work with nVidia GPU's integrated with the motherboard as well as separate video cards, but I've never ACTUALLY tried such a driver upgrade with integrated video.Yes, newer drivers work with integrated cards. I'm not sure how far that goes but certainly drivers around about a year ago work.

So far as Forceware is concerned, thanks for the information. I'll look into this.

But this still doesn't explain why my current setting doesn't save although there's a save function. Actually, it does save, but comes up a list that nneds to be selected. My problem is that it doesn't do what it says, namely "use this setting on startup".

Many thanks.

Allan

I was given an older model computer running Windows 95 or NT and it stays in Power Save Mode. I have read and read about how to get it out of this mode, but nothing I have tried seems to work. Any suggestions? :-/Is this a laptop or desktop? Do you have the CD's to reinstall the operating system if needed? Does it do anything at all? How do you know power saver mode is the problem? Are you sure the hardware is OK? What make and model? Do you know anything about the componennts - RAM, hard drive, etc?When the system is turned on, the monitor says it is going into Save Power Mode and counts down from 4. I have tried F8, I have tried to use the monitor buttons, nothing stops the count down. It is a Sabre LC desktop computer, AST, Bravo LC 5166M with intel inside, Pentium, 126 mb card inside. I am not sure what year. There is a yellow light, not green, on the hard drive when I turn it on, the monitor COMES on, but as I said goes into SP mode. :-?

It was given to me, and I wanted to GIVE it to my daughter if it will work. I know it will be slow probably. I use Windows XP and don't know much about 95 at all.First I would remove the CMOS battery for 10 minutes and then reinsert to restore the default BIOS settings. If that doesn't fix it, I would then try to boot to safe mode (F8 at startup) and see if the power modes can be adjusted in control panel. How? it has a cooper plate with a bar over it and that bar does not want to come up. I am not a computer builder or repair person, but I did see the battery today and read about it so I did know where to find that part. Will it come up without harming the parts holding it in PLACE? :-?ANOTHER question......this older model has 128 MB,SBR and my XP has 112 MB of Ram, is the older model bigger? :-? I got the battery out, was no big deal after I found the opening on the side! I will wait 10 minutes and see if it starts up. NO, I have no 95 start up disk. I have XP Professional is all.:-? It didn't do any good to take the battery out. It is still nothing. I switched to an older monitor which does not tell me about the power safe mode. I have fooled with this for a week now. Thanks for your help.

Notebook Compaq Presario 1555AP. Win XP Prof. SP 2.
When I insert cardbus pcmcia modem cdma (Huawei ec321), the comp. hang. But with PC cardbus lan, it is working; cardbus pcmcia to usb, the comp detect it, but is not working (no hang). Please help me, what can I do to solve the problem ?The usual ROUTE of installation is install the software, THENN reboot and plug in the card. If you didn't do this, uninstall it, reboot and do TTHE above.

I am not FAMILIAR with that brand. Here is somem info. Perhaps ccontact them if the reading does not help. Has this card ever worked correctly? Is it new?

http://www.huawei.com/mobileweb/en/news/view.do?id=107Ya, it is new one. I tried with another notebooks this modem work. May the problem is in my notebook. Thanks a lot.

A couple months ago I had a 19-inch monitor that was in great shape suddenly start flickering and distorting around the outside of the image. First it was intermittant, then more regular, then the top half of the monitor went black. I replaced the monitor by borrowing one from ANOTHER computer. Then I had to replace my video card, then I ADDED 256MB more RAM (512MB now), then I had to replace the PSU. Once I'd replaced the video card (which had a bad fan and was overheating badly) the problem went away almost entirely. At some point before the problem started I had to replace a MISSING DLL file directly related to the video system (it had been deleted when I'd cleared out a program) but I don't remember which one or what program to duplicate it.

The flicker has come BACK with a vengence and I don't want to replace my monitor if it's just going to blow up on me in a few months and I'll have to replace it again - $$$$ - so I was wondering if this were hardware, software, or whatever so I could fix it.

My new PSU is running about 13.5v on the 12v rail, but I thought the video card was on the 5v rail. The other rails are running at .05v within spec. All connections are tight and nothing is overheating. The new monitor, I even installed the software from the manufacturer (drivers) right off their website. I'm running the latest ATI drivers for my video card and my old one was an Nvidia. I've changed the refresh rate repeatedly and that doesn't stop the problem.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

i have a e-machine 180 with windows xpversion 2002 intel (r) celeron (r) cpu 1.80ghz 348mb of ram.i was told to buy a g-force 6200 to be able to play games suchh as age of empires etc.after installing the card and trying to play the game message appears saying,NO HARDWARE-ACCELERATED DIRECT 3-D DEVICES WERE FOUND,CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR VIDEOCARD DRIVER IS UP TO DATE AND SUPPORTS DIRECTX 9.0.THE PC EVENTUALLY SWITCHES ITSELF OFF AFTER APROX 1 HOUR,CAN ANYBODY PLEASE HELP,ITS DRIVING ME NUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!The card may be too much for that machine, expecially the power supply. What are the requirements for it? Who is the manufacturer and what is the wattage of the power supply? What ELSE is hooked up to it?hi,therequirements are,INTEL PENTIUM III,CELERON,AMD DURON,SEMPRON, OR ATHLON CLASS PROCESSOR OR HIGHER.128mb ram.cd drive,35mb available hard disk space,windows xp minimum 300 watt system power supply,does that help?

About a week ago, I noticed my PC randomly stopped playing sounds. It may have stopped earlier (such as after a Windows Update) but I don't use the sound too often so it was just recently that I noticed it. I checked by sound settings and discovered that XP convieniently forgot that I had a sound card.

I have searched the Internet relatively thoroughly for answers with no luck, so now I'll turn to you guys.

I have an ASUS P4S533 Motherboard with a built-in C-Media 8783 sound device. I know that the device did not short out or something because the motherboard "talks" to me during startup.
I have the most recent drivers, windows updates, Direct X, etc.

Also, after uninstalling and reinstalling my audio driver, a bunch of device CONFLICTS sprang up. "Microsoft Kernel Acoustic Echo Canceller" "Microsoft Kernel Audio Splitter" "Microsoft Kernel DLS Synthesizer", "Microsoft Kernel DRM Audio Descrambler", "Microsoft Kernel GS Wavetable Synthesizer", and Microsoft Kernel Wave Audio Mixer" all give me a CODE 42 ("Windows cannot load the device driver for this hardware because there is a duplicate device already running in the system.")

I think that's all the information that you'll need to help me solve this problem. Thank you in advance.For starts, go to Control Panel/System and remove aLL sound devices. Reboot the mamchinen annd tell us what happens.

Were you messing with the CONTROLS or anything unusual prior to this?After uninstalling all audio devices and re-starting the computer, the appropriate devices were reloaded, and I was left exactly where I started before. However, after a SECOND restart, the conflicts were reduced to "Microsoft Kernel Acoustic Echo Canceller" and "Microsoft Kernel Audio Splitter". (Further restarts have not cleared these two, unfortunately)

I only started messing with controls AFTER it broke to trying to get it to work again. It was probably a Windows Update that caused the problem. I have it set on automatic and I just let it do its thing.Boot up in safe mode, in device manager delete all that is in sound, video and game controllers. Reboot, then reinstall the sound drivers. Or you could try a system restore to when you KNEW all was well.

the pc of my mother takes 3 minuts to boot tro the bios/ cmos til its checking from where to boot the os from.
I cant see were it hang on becous all i see is the penium screen.

I have 2 questions:
1. do you have any idees what the problum can be?
2. how can i turn the pentium screen of so that i can see where the problum might be?

i have run sevaral programs to tjek the HARDWARE but they don't find ennyting wrong.

thanks in advansed

greets

AlienSpider

ps Sorry for my englisch.There should be a setting in the BIOS somewhere that allows you to disable the "SPLASH screen".
These splash screens are a stupid idea and whoever dreamt them up should be taken out and summarily shot! I'll have a new look i the bios to quit the splash screen.
and HOPE i can see were the problum is.

greets

AlienSpiderSometimes those can be turned off. What make and model of machine or motherboard?this is the info of the PC.
PC: Medion
motherboard: MSI MS-7012 (Medion OEM)
motherboard maker: micro-star International
CPU: Intel Pentium 4 3000MHz (15x200)
Bios type: award
Award bios type: Phoenix-Award bios v6.00PG

I have a bios update but WAND to wait with it till there are no adder options.

hope this info helps.

greets

AlienSpiderHave you tried contacting Medion? Is it still under warranty?

Maksim..... For some reason , you dont seem to answer the questions asked ...... perhaps its a language thing ....... You say some chip (s) smell burnt ...... Which ones ?
Was this a new motherboard ?
Did you bother to download and print out a copy of the appropriate manual before you started to assemble ........ ( I am inclined to think you didn't , because if you had read it all , you would know what the additional fan is for .........
What is the capacity in Watts of the power supply you used ?
Why do you believe it necessary to flash the BIOS ?
Did you follow....EXACTLY the DIRECTIONS detailed in the mobo manual before ATTEMPTING to power up the board for the first time ?
Did you VISUALLY inspect the bios chip to see if it is fried ........ does it smell ?
Have you checked to make 100% certain that the floppy drive is working ?
Are all the internal cables new or used ?
Have you tested the processer with its heatsink and fan in another machine ?
Once you provide answers to these questions , we may be able to offer an opinion .

dl65
I dont have a spare processor but do you think that may be the problem.. I can take the processor out of my working home computer and test it but im afraid that it will bust this processor too.. Any other ideas.. I had the same problem with my other mobo but i fixed it by just chaning the ram and the processor and it works now... So i dont know about this.. ONE.. does any one have another ideas.. Thanks.Maksim .......... Unfortunately we dont seem to be speaking the same language......... So ......................

[size=22]Bye bye ......[/size]


dl65

The display settings (Samsung syncmaster 793) can be set variously:
physical buttons on moniter
display properties
radeon 9600 properties
magic tune: software that came with the monitor, you can use the mouse to make adjustments rather than pressing the buttons.

Question: if the comp crashes, or locks up and you have to kill the power and re-boot; where is the comp going to look for the right display settings, i.e. which of those 4 will have priority?

Regards,
Poet
I think your question does not make much sense. You're really implying that these various methods of controlling your display are competing with each other for CONTROL rights or something like that. That's not the case. To the contrary, they work together. If they caused conflict, you WOULD probably see signs such as lock ups, error messages, and degraded performance.

I also have several ways to change display settings. If I change resolution via nVidia's software and then open Windows Display Properties, I'll see the same resolution there, not a different resolution that was previously via Windows Display Properties. Windows Display Properties accepted the change made via nVidia's software. No internal conflicts. No, that's not at all what i meant. There is no conflict. I'm not implying anything, i'm speaking plainly. I'm saying there's 4 ways to do one thing, is one better than the other? Does one way preserve settings better than the rest?

PoetThe less tweaking you do at the computer end, the less you are asking of your PC's processor and the graphics processor. Personally therefore, I would use display properties to set the resolution, then the monitor settings to tweak brightness, contrast, shape, position etc. Only if those results were not satisfactory would I then go to explore your other two possibilities.

But that's just one opinion.In Windows, there are generally umpteen different ways of doing just about anything. Whether that's for better or for worse, I'm not sure. First i'd like to say to Backdated, you have hit the nail right on the head. And i've seen that very fact create confusion and/or hesitation in others and for myself sometimes.

And to Rob, no the results are indeed fine, i simply -and i feel like an idiot talking about this simplistic stuff- don't know how to get a specific result. Brighter or darker, well that's easy but we grew up with having a brightness adjuster on our tv sets, so that's familiar.
So i go to Wikipedia and it explains to me what Barrel DISTORTION is, that was cool, but doesn't tell me how to flatten it out. Ach. The top of my display is wider than the bottom. So there's a pictogram of a trapazoid, so i think okay if i turn it to the right it'll set the width of the top, if i turn it to the left it will set the width of the bottom. That seems logical. Only it doesn't effect the bottom. Now this is where i get frustrated: why is there a control specific to the width only of the top, but NOT a corresponding control specific to the width only of the bottom? This is piddley little stuff is what DRIVES me nuts!! Frell!

Once upon a time computers were easy and fun. There were manuals that talked about things in simple English, there were controls that were simple and even logical: for DELETE press Control & D, for Copy press Control & C. See? Logical, easy.
Alas for the days of yesteryear; now there are pictograms (what am i, a caveman reading off the wall?) that just give me a migraine.

Poet

Hi guys, I'm going to the store this weekend to pick up one of these two routers to start my own home network... For some reason, these two seem different, but I don't know what makes them different... Anyone know? Please answer ASAP as I will need to get these before the rebate goes and before they run out of items! Here are the routers: http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?product_code=311811&pfp=srch1 and http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?product_code=307239&pfp=srch1 ... The only difference that I can see is that one is called a Media Router and one is a FIREWALL Router... As long as I can make a home network on it, I'll take it... Anyone know what's up here?

FlameThe cheaper one would work just fine. Flame...... They will both do the job ....however the 2nd one is capable of more than the first one ....... Check out the technical specs and you will see the differance.

dl65 The biggest difference (other than the PRICE) appears to be that the cheaper one doesn't offer 152 bit WEP (only goes up to 128 bit). The cheaper one however appears to have some advantages and is at a bigger discount from the MRP. Choice is yours. As GX1_Man says, either will do the job - the more expensive one would be a little more secure.Well, dl65, the only difference I see is the encryption like Rob pointed out... I kind of liked the idea of being able to plug in external devices to allow REMOTE storage and access... I guess the seocnd router doesn't have that? I'm pretty torn...

FlameAfter comparing the price difference after the rebates, it looks like the first router is a better deal... The second one will be $19 more in the end, and with less features. Better security yes, but I don't think it'll be much of a problem. They're just sold out of the first router though, so hopefully I'll get it by the time they close the deal.

Flame

eTower 667ix, 10GB HD reformatted. Backed up two ways before reformatting, 1) copying files to 14CDs and 2) using Genie-Soft GBM-Home to backup to a new external 250GB Fantom HD. Made floppy boot disk before formatting. This works ok. Gets me to Microsoft Millennium Startup Menu with the four choices. I have the (2)OEM Windows Me Restore CDs which are bootable. But the CD-RW drive is not being recognized. The CD-RW drive is E: I TRIED all the Help INSTRUCTIONS with no luck. Scandisk says ok.

Computer REPAIR shop diagnosed: HD did not pass tests; CD-ROM (drive D) intermittant; CD-RW (drive E) and memory OK. I installed a new 80GB internal HD. Exact same problem as old HD. Scandisk says Drives C & D are OK. D: is an original cd-rom that has not worked for some months. Scandisk does not see drive E: which the boot screen says is my CD drive. If I type A:\>D:\setup.exe it gives "Bad command or file name" If I type E"\>setup.exe it gives "CDR101:Not ready reading drive E.

I suspect the floppy Boot Disk has no driver for the CD-RW drive E. My laptop has no floppy drive and the bad desktop can't read a CD. Maybe I can USE a neighbor's computer to download a driver on to a floppy. Then what should I do?

JackOSince you recently paid someonne to fix this and it is not fixed, I would take it right back. Since you took it there already, I am assuming any kind of repair would still be beyond you. I got a free diagnosis from Computers 4 Rent. They wanted $40 to install a used HD and another $40 to reinstall Me. They said all was OK except the HD and the original CD-ROM, which I did not need with the newer CD-RW. I got the new 80GB Samsung HD for $15 after rebates and tax from Comp USA. Thought Restore CDs would reinstall Me so I could upgrade to XP-Home. I'm slightly better than an amature at this computer stuff but can follow directions.

Appreciate your help.

JackOForgot to mention. I also have the OEM CD that came with the CD-RW. It is a HI-VAL 52x24x52 internal by New Tech Infosystems installed January, 2004. The desktop doesn't read that CD either. My laptop READS the Me Restore CDs OK, so they aren't bad.

JackOI am assuming the optical drives are jumpered correctly and are being seen in the BIOS?The CD-RW worked fine when I backup copied files to 14 CDs and the repair shop said it was "fine". I don't think I disturbed anything when I installed the new HD but your point is valid and I will have to look inside and see if anything doesn't look right.
Thanks.
JackOIf the other optical drive is bad, I would remove it just to eliminate one more variable.

Hi people how are you. I have been having problem installing windows XP on my

" Maxtor / DiamondMax 10 / 250GB / 7200 / 16MB / ATA-133/ OEM / RoHS Compliant "

harddrive. It has two partitions currently. One is C: and the second is D: I currently have XP on C: and my data and BACKUP files on D: So i recently decided to install fresh xp copy. I restarted the computer inserted the xp CD and the CD INITIALIZED by saying press any key to boot from CD. I pressed enter and then a black screen awaits me, after 5 minutes still black screen, after 10 mins still black screen so restarted and tried it again, i thought mayb the cd or my pc froze on me. After restarting still same issue. So i restarted and inserted windows 98 Cd inside and the setup was completed without any problems. It was very weird, so i decided to delete all the paritions and format the whole hard drive as one partition. And luckily this time it worked, xp was installed. Now my questions to you are

1)what could be wrong that i was not able to setup XP when there were 2 partitions. I still have two partitions and would like to re-install xp on C: drive

2)whats the best way to install a OS if i have a

"Diamond Stealth Radeon 9250 / 256MB DDR / PCI / DVI / TV-Out "

video card installed in my pc, should i remove it and then install any os and then within os install the drivers and so on, or installing an OS while the video card is installed in my pc. Is there any difference between using either methods

3) just for kicks what do you think of my harddrive and video card specs ?

Thx in advance

#1- What error messages do you get witht the XP CD? Do you get to the license agreement where you have to press F8? Do you get to the partitioning screen? Is this a real Windows CD?

#2 - Leave your video card in to install. Make sure to disable onboard video if you can manually.

#3 - cool.
You SEE that's the problem "it does not" do what a windows xp installation normally would do. This is what is exactly happening

1) I put in the Windows Xp Pro Sp2 inside and boot from the cd rom.
2) It shows me the message that "Press any key to boot from cd" So i hit enter
3) It shows me the message "Setup is inspecting your system's hardware configuration "

Normally after this message a blue screen should popup asking to "press F6 if you need to install any third-party or RAID drivers" right ? But this screen does not show up right after the 3rd step there is a complete black screen like a blackhole sucking my patience right in it. I have waited 10 mins 20 mins 30 mins still nothing and i have tried this 4-8 times. FYI the cd is not scratched or broken, as i just finished installing xp the same exact way i always do on my old WD 15 GB harddrive, so that means something is wrong with my Maxtor 250 GB hard drive. Now that being said anyone have any idea as to what's wrong ? I have been searching guides/notes/tips/ and searching on google for almost 5 days now and i came up with a few questions

1) is it the 137 GB space windows xp space barrier involved here ? i thought that was an issue only with windows xp before the sp1 and sp2 was out

2) does it has to do something with my bios or motherboard not supporting this HUGE hard drive ? Although i do see my harddrive active and alive in my bios setup

3) should i update my bios and motherboard drivers as i havent done so in many years. Is this safe ?

4) i can install a fresh copy of windows 98 on this same harddrive without any problems, then why xp only ?

5) i called up Maxtor helpline and explained to the rep what my problem was, he advised me that it should be a Microsoft software problem/issue and that i should contact Microsoft. Did he just get away with a lame excuse ?

Thx in advanceQuote

5) i called up Maxtor helpline and explained to the rep what my problem was, he advised me that it should be a Microsoft software problem/issue and that i should contact Microsoft. Did he just get away with a lame excuse ?

when i got home from work today i turned on my comp to find that my desktop had been resized in a way that it wouldent show the top right left and bottom cm of the desktop. it was just the icons and taskbar though not the background. i restarted and now everything is sized normally but the *censored* moniter keeps flickering only from the about a third of the way up the screen for an inch or so and then a band from the very top down 2 inches. i cannot figure out
a: what caused the problem because no one used the computer from me leaving for work and returning home and turning it on and
b: how to fix the *censored* thing its not a huge problem but its *censored* annoyingWhat kind of monitor is it? CRT or LCD? Only sections are flickering? Sounds like the screen itself and not the video card, so thats the good news. If its just a CRT, I'd just buy a new monitor. LCD's are definitely on the rise and prices are falling, and you could pick up a CRT for next to nothing. I have TWO CRT's just sitting in my basement to get rid of at some point!its a crt moniter but the flickering only starts when the WINDOWS desktop loads it dosent happen during startupRight click on the desktop; choose properties. Select the settings TAB, then click ADVANCED. Go to the adapter tab. Somewhere around there you will find an option to CHANGE the refresh rate (sorry - it varies with different graphics cards). Try a higher speed refresh rate. Anything around 60Hz is going to look flickery on a CRT. Aim for 85Hz or better. Your monitor may not support the higher rates at all colour depths and all resolutions.its not a whole screen FLICKER its in 2 sections of the moniter
___________
| |
========= <-- flicker
| |
| | <----no flicker
| |
========= <---flicker
| |
___________

everything in the part that flickers jumys from the left about 8 inches to the right and i tried adjusting the Hz but it doent change anything it still flichersSecond Opinion ---->Bad monitor.its not the moniter i hooked it up to another computer and it works fine.im positive its the video card i just want to know how i should go about fixing it or if i should just buy another video card

I am planning to buy a new graphic card. My main purpose is to use it for animations softwares like Maya et al and not for gaming. What is the latest in graphic cards? And what size would you recommend? 128 or 256 mb??
Any other suggestions are welcome...The amount of memory on your card will DETERMINE how much you can run at once. If you will be using demanding products that incude graphics, then go with a 256 card. A 128 card will usually do you well, but it depends on what you will do with it. As far as manufacturers, there isn't much of a gap between NVIDIA and ATI. I hear better things avout ATI's support, etc. But I hear that NVIDIAs work just as well. It's your choice. Whatever has the best features for the best price.

Flamethanx flame.. do you know anything about MX and FX technologies in the graphic cards?If the system requirements SHOWN at http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=6837879 are a valid indication, even a 64MB card would suffice. Most animation software really is not that demanding, is it?How much are you willing to spend and what ports do you have open? If you would like to talk to me on AIM about this, my SN is Tienpoop, I'd be happy to help you.You're going to tell him to buy the 7800 lol Don't listen to him! It costs more than its worth!

FlameFlames, if you read his post carefully, he SAID "the latest".

I assumed he wanted the best, and actually no I wasn't going to recomend him that.

Well, here are your options that I've thought up..

1. PCIE slot? Get the 6600GT, 128MB. 110~ dollars

2. AGP slot? Get the 6800GS, 256MB. 180~ dollars <- this is pretty much what Flames has in his setup

3. If you can wait.. the G8 line is coming out soon and the G7's will go down in price.

4. If you got alot of money to spare, get the 7900GT, its a huge step above however, so I don't think you would need it.

Remember to check your PSU wattage and see if it has enough wattage and the right molar connectors.

The memory WILL NOT matter much, the memory is alloted to rendering REAL TIME graphics, and since your not playing games with it, you won't need the 256mb, although it will still speed up LOAD times.

I own a G4 powerbook running OS X 10.3.5, 1.5 GHZ, 256 MB RAM and recently bought a HP deskjet 9800 that I was TOLD was mac compatible. The adobe programs I use create postscripted images but the 9800 is a non-postscripted printer. The graphics I PRINT on this printer are a poor quality because of this. Can I install a driver in my printer so that it will print properly? Are there any other options other than buying a new printer?

Hi, Not sure if this should have gone in "Windows" forum, but here GOES...

I have an older Compaq Presario 12XL500 laptop with a burnt out LCD (backlight is shot). This model also has a VGA port, to which I've hooked up a large CRT monitor. I've figured out how to physically remove the now defunct LCD screen, but when I do, I notice a problem: With the LCD plugged in, the external CRT monitor looks fine with the 1024 x 768 resolution. HOWEVER, if I SHUT down the laptop, unplug the LCD screen, and re-boot, the 1024 x 768 resolution on the CRT is now huge--bigger than the screen. I can fix this by reducing resolution to 800 x 600, but the ICONS and text get huge, websites are too big, etc. etc. etc.

So. Does anyone know why it does this? Is there a way to get use my laptop sans LCD, but not have to reduce resolution? The CRT is a Mac if that helps...

I have a problem with my PC, may fonts & desktop icon is to large in his normal size, how can i back to their standard sizes?Right-click on your desktop -> Properties -> Settings ... Look for a scrollbar that says "SCREEN RESOLUTION". Move the slider to the right to decrease size. Click on Apply to make sure it all looks good, and click on ok to make the change.

Flamehi flame,

i can't move the screen resolution? i think the problem is on video CARD.The arrow is grayed-out and you can't move it? Sounds like that is your card... You need to update your drivers... Go to your video card manufacturer's website and download them there. Follow their instructions from that point to install them.

Flamei can't see my video card drivers, my OS is windows 98...its old modelWhat is your video card?It probably isn't installed but [highlight]Aida32[/highlight] will identify it.

hi to all..my PC is getting slower than ever before..i think i need to reformat my PC..what should i do first before reformatting?how will i back up my files?and what files should be backed-up? please help.. thanks..Well, before you decide to TAKE that extreme step, LET's SEE where you STAND on protecting your system from malware and what you do to keep it clean of malware and registry clutter. READ this and then tell us where you stand: QA0007 Spyware/Adware/Virus Removal.

Sometimes my computer EXPERIENCES a "sleep mode," where the monitor shuts off yet the computer is still "running," but the sleep mode cannot be "exited" out of, alt-tabbed, Alt-F4'ed or anything...except a forced restart.

This occurs randomly at times, but it has a 70% chance of occuring when playing a large, graphic intensive game, such as World of Warcraft. In fact, it's quite nasty as the "sleep mode" KICKS in within 2-3 minutes of launching the game. If the "sleep mode" does not, then a series of flashing, flickering, and lagging occurs for about 4-5 seconds and then for the rest of the session, whether it be 5 hours or 10 hours, the game runs fine. The problem probably is with my video card, a Radeon 9600. The Radeon series has a ton of problems dealing with World of Warcraft, both ATI and Blizzard have admitted this...

So I am asking, can any of you here help?

System specs:

Windows XP SP2
AMD Athlon 64 3000+
1GB RAM
ATI Radeon 9600 128MB

BTW: I am running the latest Catalyst drivers. I have tried to rollback to older versions before, and the game runs fine with those; however, the graphics are not as good.How do you come to the conclusion that this is "sleep mode" and not overheating or some other hardware problem?I doubt that it is overheating. This is an issue that occurs most frequently at the launch of the game and never during actual gameplay. Here's a few more details:

- I turn on the computer.
- I exit out my virus scanner.
- I load up World of Warcraft.
- I log in, and I enter a queue [Note: most frequently occurs when I'm in queue]
- Five minutes later, the monitor shuts off, but the computer is still running. Forced restart.

I found that if I stayed out of FULLSCREEN, my problem is somewhat solved. I would load up Firefox, load up World of Warcraft, get in the queue, then minimize and bring up Firefox. I predict when the queue will expire, and I maximize the game. If I time this incorrectly or if I maximize/minimize back and forth to check on my queue status, I risk falling into the "sleep mode."

Strangest darn THING ever. It's also costed me several hours of wait time (if anyone plays World of Warcraft, they know that the game is notorious for lag and queues).Quote

.....I am running the latest Catalyst drivers. I have tried to rollback to older versions before, and the game runs fine with those.....

I can't find a power supply for my samsung 770tft fitted with a Image Systems Corp. fp1700hb-05 touchscreen. The connector for the power supply is a 5 pin din. I talked to Image Systems tech support and they told me to make my own. They told me to find a 12 volt 5.0 amp output power supply and gave me the electric diagram: "Looking at the end of the connector with the 5 pins top oriented and counting clockwise from the left side. Pin 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 is the pin identification. Negative on pins 1 and 4. Positive on pins 3 and 5. GROUND on pin 2." I can't find a power supply that's 12 volt 5 amp to save my life. Please Help!Here is the entire email conversation if anybody thinks they can help. Thanks, Scott

Me: I purchased a used Image Sytems Co. monitor off of ebay. I found "image
systems corp 6103 blue circle dr minnetonka,MN 55343" on the monitor. So
I figured I would try to see if you know where I can find a correct
power supply. The seller told me that the power supply model number is
MW116 but shortly after I received it told me he has no idea where I can
find another one to fit it. I have searched everywhere but can't find
one with the proper amp/voltage and no generic adapters seem to have
that unique round connector. The monitor claims it needs DC14V---3.0A.
If there is any way you could sell me the proper supply unit I would
very much appreciate it. I really appreciate your time.

Them: This flat panel should have been sold with the medical power supply
which is available from us for $385. I will give you the pin-out that
you need if you want to do your own wiring. Looking at the end of the
connector with the 5 pins top oriented and counting clockwise from the
left side. Pin 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 is the pin identification. Negative on
pins 1 and 4. Positive on pins 3 and 5. Ground on pin 2. You listed the
correct power supply but it is modified with the different connector for
the touch panel application. You should be alright if you make the
modification between the commercial connector and the one on the
monitor.

Me: OK, so just to clarify, you can send me the connector so that I can rig
up a generic power supply to run the monitor? If so that would be
awesome! What would the charge on that be? Thanks for the reply!

Them: We don't stock the connector ANYMORE because we don't make that version
of monitor anymore. The good news is that the connector is a standard 5
pin DIN style that can be purchased at any RADIO SHACK. Recommend that
you record the polarity of the voltage on respective pins from the
connector coming out of the power supply. Solder a short wire with
shrink tubing to the corresponding pins on the connector from the power
supply to the pins described below. Slide the shrink tubing over the
solder connections at each end to add electrical insulation. That should
do it. By the way, you should pressure the person who sold the monitor
to include the power supply. This was like selling shoes WITHOUT laces.
Good luck.

Me: Yea I realize now that the seller played stupid with a reason. I really
appreciate the help though! A couple questions though, any recommendations
on a power supply to do this with? The actual wiring I will be fine with, I have
done things like this before. Also this was adertised as a touchscreen. I only see
one connector which is the standard VGA connector. Is the touch screen also
through that port along with the vga? Also would this require and special software
to use? The seller didn't give me really anything other than the monitor itself. I
really appreciate your help/time.

Them: There should be a white cable that will connect direcly to your COM1
port on the computer. The driver can be downloaded from 3M touch driver web
page. http://www.3m.com/3MTouchSystems/downloads/TSdrivers.jhtml Load in
the Touchware 5.6 for the serial type you have. Just follow instructions and read
the “README” file that comes along with it. AULT makes the power supply. Check
the web page for local distributors in your area. There is a Minneapolis office at
763-592-1900. Ask where to by the PW116 if you don’t need the Medical grade and
MW116 if you do. The output should be 12 Volts at 5.0 Amps.
Anybody have any idea?

Hey - I have some video on my laptop I'd rather watch on the "big screen"...

I have an S-Video output on my laptop and input on my teevee, but that obviously doesn't give me SOUND...

Is there like a USB=>RCA adaptor or something like that?

ThanksAll the necessary LEADS are available and a cheaper option might be a "video copying kit". These were commonplace a few years ago when copying from VCR to VCR was all the rage. They contained just about every combination of lead imaginable and I SEE them occasionally in pound shops and the like.

Your big problem is that unless your laptop has audio connections to the outside world, you're stumped.Head off down to Maplin/Tandy. Grab a lead to convert from your 3.5mm stereo output to twin phonos. Then grab an S-Video + Stereo Phono to SCART converter. That'll do the trick.Quote

Head off down to Maplin/Tandy. Grab a lead to convert from your 3.5mm stereo output to twin phonos. Then grab an S-Video + Stereo Phono to SCART converter. That'll do the trick.

Dear members,

I have no experience with Laptop Computers. But las week I GOT a Fujitsu Laptop (old model) for repair. I formatted the hard drive with c:\&GT;format c:/s (DOS Command) I WORKED and all the data erased from the drive then it was ready to boot. EVERY thing is right but the problem is that:

1) I cannot install windows from CD as the CD Rom cannot be connected in DOS mode (LAPTOP CD-ROM ).

2) The system rightly boots in and shows the command PROMPT. Everything is OK.

HOW I CAN COPY AND INSTALL WINDOWS TO LAPTOP HARD DRIVE? ANY DEVICE, METHOD PLEASE HELP.

My HP dvd840e (external) connected to my Dell Inspiron 8200 notebook with USB 2.0 card is not functioning.

System:

Dell Inspiron 8200
Windows XP Service Pack 2
Mobile Intel Pentium 4 1.8 GHz
640 mb ddr dimm
30g HD
ADS technologies USB Turbo 2.0 for notebooks
HP Deskjet 5740
NVIDIA GeForce4 440 Go (Dell Mobile)
Hewlitt-Packard HP dvd840e(shows up as 840y in device manager) ext. dvd writer
Netgear WG 511 54mbps wireless card
MCAFFEE Antivirus
Nero Suite (came with ext.DVD writer)
HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4240N (int. OEM)

When I try to burn a Dvd I GET a message of "not enough free space on disk" when it is a brand new Phillips DVD-R 4.7 gb 1-16x disk. I tried the light-scribe disk that came with the HP dvd and got the same message. I have tried files of different SIZES and types with the same results. I tried recording at slower speeds and still no success. I tried to burn a music CD and it froze @ 20%. A speed test of the ext. HP dvd with the Nero software gives an average speed of 7.75x. The ext. HP dvd will recognize and play other dvds and cds (music and VIDEO). The printer shares the USB 2.0 card with the HP DVD and works fine. There are no conflicts in Device Manager. There is 12g of free space on my HD (the HP ext. dvd requires 10g). I have done virus scans with updated McAffee with no infection found. Anyone have any ideas? All help is extremely appreciated.

Help me please!

My computer will no turn on - it beeps once continuosly. This indicates it is a DRAM refresh failure. Eck!

:-?

How do I go about fixing this and getting my computer back!

All suggestions welcome!

Thanks!

MaryWhat happened prior to all of this? Are you TH eonly one using the machine? Any MONKEYING inside the case or excursions into the BIOS?Hello!

It just came up with a BLUE screen on the monitor - it said SOMETHING about checking the physical harddrive - but if I hadn't see this screen before to rebot the computer. So I just restarted this.

It's my computer I use with my children. We were only on msn messenger when the blue screen came up.

I have never opened up the harddrive - And never done anything more than check EMAILS and surf the net on it!

Thanks

MaryThe good news is that it could be bad or ill fitted memory.
The bad news is that it could be a failed motherboard.

i have a hard drive that i ACCIDENTALLY deleted the partition off of but i know the data is still there how can i retrieve it i have not formated the drive or done any thing to it after i realized what i had done
PLEASE HELP! and i will be enternaly gratefulCan you explain exactly what's happened. Give DETAILS of how and which partition was deleted and where the needed data actually is.If you deleted the WHOLE partition, the data is gone (unless perhaps you send it to a recovery expert). Why do you think it is still there?well i know it is not actually gone because i was in windows setup in DOS and deleted the windows off the hard drive so it can't be gone because information is never gone until it is written over or formatted (which i haven't done by the way)Have you written anything to this partition since?
Do you have another hard drive or partition to copy the recovered data to?no to the first and yes to the second
Quote

because information is never gone until it is written over or formatted

I need urgent help to fix my hard DISK. After LOOKING deeply into the problem, I found that my hard disk now only able to read the data off the partitions, but would not write any data to the disk. When I boot up my Windows XP, it just load for a while and freeze there, using check disk won't work as it refuse to scan. I couldn't even clear the MBR or reformat the partitions, not to say reinstall Windows. I TESTED the memory and it is not memory problem. I have no idea what is the problem, can anyone help? :-/have you try in "SAFMODE"?
if so, what HAPPEN?Safe mode won't help as it freeze half-way during loading. Just to give a bit of information about my system:
My computer is a notebook
Windows XP Home EDITION SP2
256MB + 512MB memory, 16MB used for video
My hard disk is separated into 2 partitions, no data can be written to any of the 2, but it can be read

While I not sure how the internal of a hard disk work, is there a separate read and write head?
Off the wall...(goin to be my c sign !!! K???) have U tried SCANDISK ??
In XP it is called Check Disk if I am not wrong, I have tried, the scan ended as soon as it is started. So it is unable to scan it.

Upgrading from celly d socket 478 to pentium 4 2.8ghz

How exactly do I GO about doing this?Good luck

http://www.waterwheel.com/Guides/how_to/cpu/CPU.htm

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+install+478+processorI think I am going to return the cpu I bought and save up and buy a sweet pc.

I'm thinkin specs like:

AMD 64 x2
250gb seagate hd
some sweet case with a window
~500w psu
asus a8n sli motherboard
2x1gb corsair
2xgeforce(undecided which model)

How does this setup sound so far?Don't forget a quality power supply. That sweet case with a window will probably have an EL cheapo standard in it. 550 watts or whatever it says does not make it a good one. Think $70 or so for this very IMPORTANT component. It is not the place to save a few bucks. Hello, might I reccomend you some parts?

AMD X2 3800+ (This can OC quite a bit)

Instead of getting 2 geforces, opt for the Geforce 7900GT, it's cost effective and a very good card!

It's been a while since I last posted. I was BURNING a CD today using MusicMatch Jukebox, and towards the end of the burn, it said that there was a hardware failure and the DISC failed to burn, and after that, the drive worked for a while and continued to burn CDs, but when it gave out the hardware failure message again, I tried getting the drive to read CDs again, but to no avail. It won't read audio CDs, CD-Rs, or CD-ROMs. It still reads DVDs, but that's it. I've been using it for five years with no problems until now. In the past, the only problem I ever had was with WINDOWS detecting the drive at bootup, but that rarely happened, and the drive is detected. I checked the device properties, and it STATES that there's no problems and the device works properly.

It's on our Dell Dimension 8200, and we have Windows XP Home Edition. I'm not having any other problems with the computer at this time.

I can't believe it. It sounds like something's gone wrong with the CD lens.Sometimes that happens. Time, heavy use, poor manufacturing, who knows? The warranties are incredibly short, never over a year, so it may be time for a new one. Of course the mechanics can work (tray opens and closes) long after the optics go out.

My computer wouldn't power up so I bought a new power supply. I installed the new power supply and the light on the front goes on and then fades out after a few seconds, but the computer does not actually turn on (the power supply fan does not MOVE). I thought maybe I got a bad power supply so I tried it in my other computer and it worked fine. I'm thinking that maybe it's the MOTHERBOARD or power on switch, any suggestions?it might be the power switch, but are u talking about the TOGGLE power switch on the BACK, or the push button power switch on the front?The push button on the front.My FRIEND's mobo fried and it did that. The light would come on but nothing would happen. Can't remember if the power supply fan spun though...

i got a new ancient laptop:
Win 98 SE
16 mb RAM
SVGA Video
pentium 1 unknown SPEED.....(can't find it anywhere)
1.3 GB hdd

the file system on the hard drive is FAT16 or fat or something. it's really annoying with the tiny amount of space and there is an option in disk cleanup to upgrade to FAT32. should i? will i need to reinstall everything? will it screw it up completely?
Wow...that's daring of you. Why did you get the laptop? I wouldn't touch something like that with a 10 ft pole. Fat32 would just be another format of how the hard drive stores things. I don't know if it would free up any space, but even if it did, it wouldn't be anything considerable. If i were you I'd just not worrry about it and give that sucker a one-way ticket into the garbage dumpster. It might just end up bringing you more frustration than its worth.A conversion to FAT 32 with that machine could take days!

I see no advantage in doing that.hope the laptop was for free as it is not worth $2, but the replies are right, fat 32 will not give you anymore ROOM. you can either fit the lapy with a larger hard drive or if you have USB port? buy a external drive with drivers.

and YES you would have to reinstall, but at least you could customise the instalation and only install what you need. good luck from faywardIt should be FAT32 formatted and 1.3Gig is ample to run Win98 and quite a few programs. It's the 16M RAM that's the problem.

Aida32 will reveal all where hardware is concerned.

I think the power supply fan may be broken. The same thing happened with my chassi fan when the bearing broke. Can I replace the fan in it or just replace the whole thing?
And if i have to replace the whole thing can i just use any kind or does it have to be specific?Wait - what MAKES you think it's broken? No power, no fans, what?

And there are specific voltages you should use; the wrong kind can fry the system.Well the fan is not TURNING. I tried to turn it and it felt like there was friction there so i think the bearing is shot. And im pretty sure it uses a 250volt. power supply. I FOUND one off a computer just like mine on ebay for about 40$ so i can replace it if i have to.What make and MODEL MACHINE is this?

I have noticed on my CPU that 4 pins are bent against the green BACK part of the cpu, the 4 in question are the very 2 CORNER pins on the back. one of the CORNERES which is ok is the one where the gold triangle is, will this make the CPU in-operationalHow did this happen? All of the pins should be in the socket for correct operation.well when i was taking the fan off, the cpu was more or lesss tuck to it so it just shot out withough the silver lever being lifted up. hense the pins bending back. i would imagine they would be easy to replace but as i bought it off ebay i imagine it will cost a lot to fixCPU pins can not be REPLACED. if they are bent you MIGHT get lucky carefully STRAIGHTENING them, but if they are off you need a new CPU.

Hi all I just recently DECIDED to check ATI's website for updated drivers and seen that they had one. I was loosing some performance to my aging card (8500DV All In Wonder) and though that some new drivers might give it a boost. I downloaded the new drivers and used ATI's RECOMMENDED uninstall tool to remove the old ones.

Then I rebooted and proceeded to install the new drivers but ran into an error message during install telling me that the "installation cannot be completed try installing basic VGA drivers then try to install the software again". Ok thats a first so I then uninstalled the partial driver installation and rebooted. I then went to the device manager and it showed absolutly NO display adapter driver, nothing. When I clicked on the display adapter ICON and looked at the PROPERTIES it said it was using the default VGA adapter and has me stuck at 640 x 480 resolution.

I have tried installing the old drivers but now get the same error. I have also tried using microsoft update but also get a failed installation. Has anyone else had this problem how can I fix this without reinstalling windows?

My System

WinXP Home SP1
ATI 8500 DV AIW
512 mb kingmax DDR 400 ram
Seagate 80 GB HD
Soundblaster Live Audio Card
Microstar MB
AMD AthlonXP 2400+With the standard VGA drivers in place, highlight the car item and right click to choose Properties and click. Then choose REINSTALL Driver and point the source of the drivers to where the unzipped drivers you downloaded are and let Windows do it.

Do not use Windows update for this and make sure you have the correct drivers.

I had a kernel failure. When I clicked to restart my system, I received an error message instructing me to reinstall windows if the problem persisted...it did. I reloaded windows 98 and all was well with the EXCEPTION of my external Iomega CDRW. The unit would not recognize any blank media put into it. I tried to reinstall the software for the unit only to get another error message reading:
Error while decompressing file C:/windows/temp/~VIS0000/IOMEGA_DRIVER_UPDATE.exe, err=-9

I've gone so far as to use the control panel add/remove to purge any Iomegs programs and I have physically removed the hardware from my system and tried to reinstall per manufactures suggestion. I still get the same error message with each attempt.

Dr.Watson reports: No obvious problems.

I am running a PowerSpec Pentium 2, 400mhz, 512 mb ram, Windows 98 with all current updates, IE 6 browser, Liteon301 32X CD, EPSON 980 printer, HP Scanjet 4070 scanner.How old is the drive? Has it had a lot of use? Did you format the drive prior to reinstalling Windows?The drive is approximately 8 years old. I did not format the drive prior to the windows reinstallation. I did RUN a complete scandisk prior to that under the safe MODE and the disk was healthy with no problems or bad sectors. My system is up now and the CDRW reinstall appears to be the only current problem. Prior to answering this message I had again ran a thorough scandisk with the same results shown...no problems or bad sectors.Can U get into BIOS and see if its there?...Do U have win 98 plus SE ??
Just plain old 98, not the second edition. I can easily get into the BIOS, but what am I looking for? Sorry for my ignorance, and thanks for your help.Do U hs
ave another drive hooked up at all !!...IS ur H drive set up as PRIMARY ?....Have U got drive hooked up to CD/DVD rom cable erc...JUST trying to help (swilly questions MODS ??)OK (think I got i together now !!!...sorry all!!).....U say mate its an external drive !!!!...thats a whole new ballgame to me !! is it USB ??...sorry bout crap !!1 b 4 allQuote

OK (think I got i together now !!!...sorry all!!).....U say mate its an external drive !!!!...thats a whole new ballgame to me !! is it USB ??...sorry bout crap !!1 b 4 all

after i got the dreaded blue screen of DEATH telling me i had a CPU speed change i changed my bios setting to manual for CPU speed and memory cash speed to 266 the system booted fine. the next day the dreaded BSOD showed up and since then my monitor only turns on and displays when viewing bios.
it will not work in normal boot up mode. there are no BEEPS and i am not sure that the hard drive is working, i have attached another hard drive with OS but the same thing happens. the computer is a P4 with 350W power SUPPLY and the graphics is part of the MOBO. all fans work and power supply is working as well. can any one help me?Strip out everything (Both power and data leads) except one standard keyboard, one stick of known good RAM and one known good graphics card (Preferably PCI). SET the BIOS settings to their failsafe defaults and try now.will do, may TAKE a couple of days, will let you know.
Cheers from fayward.Hi

Alternatively try downloading the Latest version of your Motherboard manufacturers BIOS and flash your bios. The fact that your getting a display in your POST boot section and not the GUI could indicate that there is a problem with your AGP apature or video cache. Are you using onboard Video?

I just got my computer BUILT, and when i installed windows and my graphics card drivers . i could not hear any SOUND, so i came here tryign to figure out where i would locate my sound card but i tried the methods usings windows. I opened the case and realized taht i had no idea where my sound card is located, can some help me, or send a link.. i couldnt find it on this websitenoodlehead88...... Quote

I opened the case and realized taht i had no idea where my sound card is located

i have no idea where my sound card is located, can some help me, or send a link.. i couldnt find it on this website