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Does a DSL (MODEM) connect by RJ-45 to a serial port? I KNOW where it connects but in my A+ class I was told that a DSL doesn't connect to a serial port. However RJ standards are serial? I'm confused. Help, anybody!The serial port you are THINKING about is RS-232, it is 9-pin D-submin or sometimes 25-pin D-submin. RJ-45 is ethernet which is also serial. USB is also serial.

DSL modem connects to RJ-45 (ethernet) or to USB.amangin1..... Normally the RJ-45 cable from the modem connects to either the onboard RJ-45 Lan port or the RJ-45 port on the ethernet card ( pci) . I have never heard of using the serial port to connect a modem and it certainly wouldnt accept a RJ-45 cable ......
PERHAPS you should be asking more questions in class or LISTEN carefully and then ask the questions


dl65 Quote

I have never heard of using the serial port to connect a modem

Quote

I have never heard of using the serial port to connect a modem

In the old days, that was the only way to connect a modem...

Hello all,

I'd like to upgrade my current video card which i've just learned won't work with any of the newer games. Its an integrated system (see below). I've apparently got 3 slots available 3 PCI and 1AGP slot. Being somewhat computer illiterate, I don't know what this means. What i'd like to know is if its possible to upgrade this system (even bypassing the card on the m'board) and if so, with what? The NVidia GEForce has been recommended as well as ATI RAdeon (9000+). I'm wondering if either will work. Thanks in advance for your help.

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)

Motherboard:
CPU Type AMD Athlon XP, 2200 MHz (11 x 200) 3200+
Motherboard Name Asus A7V8X-LA (Kelut) (3 PCI, 1 AGP, 2 DDR DIMM, Audio, Video, LAN, IEEE-1394)
Motherboard Chipset VIA VT8378A UniChrome KM400A
System Memory 448 MB (PC3200 DDR SDRAM)
BIOS Type Award (02/09/04)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter VIA/S3G UniChrome IGP (64 MB)
3D Accelerator VIA/S3 UniChrome
Monitor HP F1703 [17" LCD] (CNC4481PNK)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter VIA AC'97 Enhanced Audio Controller

AGP is a newer technology than PCI and you should choose a video card that installs in the AGP slot for best performance. And, yes, you should be able install an AGP or PCI video card and disable the onboard video. You may need to access your BIOS to disable the onboard video. Do you have a motherboard manual? It will tell you how to access your BIOS and how to disable onboard video if necessary. If you don't have one (manual), I suggest downloading one from http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us. Note that this page came from a search on A7V8X; I don't know about the LA (Kelut) part of your info.

Unless the manual specifies ATI or nVidia, you should be fine with either. Your SELECTION will, of COURSE, depend somewhat on your budget for this. But, you'll get better gaming performance with a range of cards; an independent card, even the inexpensive ones, practically always yields better performance than onboard video. Of course, if you want to play high-end games, the more powerful, expensive, cards will give you better gaming performance.

First off, here are some specifications of my computer:
Processor: AMD Athlon XP 3200+
OS: Windows XP PRO SP2
RAM: Two sticks of PC3200 SDRAM
if you need more, ask

Okay. Now for the problem. Sometimes when I boot up, my processor speed changes from displaying 3200+ to displaying 1050 Mhz. If I allow the computer to boot into windows, it runs a lot slower than normal. I have found a way to reset this, but it has been happening much more OFTEN lately. Also, I ran MEMTEST on each of my RAM sticks seperately, and with one of them, I had over 700 errors. I was wondering if there is a corrolation between these two?

What is the CPU speed changes caused by and how do I fix them?Quote

Also, I ran memtest on each of my RAM sticks seperately, and with one of them, I had over 700 errors. I was wondering if there is a corrolation between these two?

What is the CPU speed changes caused by and how do I fix them?

Hi...I'm really puzzled by my computer. all of a sudden it's only worked if i tilt the laptop to a 90 degree angle! not just the screen, but the whole system. this means resting the computer on my chest to type and looking down at the screen. the whole thing freezes if i lay it flat! what's going on?! it seems to overheat when laid flat too. it's driving me nuts! the fan seems to work when it's flat but the disk just desn't do a thing.
thanks in advance for any help
chrisI am puzzled too. But since I can't quite see the make/model or any details about it, especially what preceded this, etc. we will have to wait for you to enlighten us. SIMPLE - you have a faulty connection. Could be anywhere. OPENING up a laptop is not GENERALLY easy. If you don't fancy doing it yourself, get someone you trust to service it. Might not be fixable though without replacing some expensive parts.thanks. hmm. i feel STUPID typing like this. you should see me, the computer is pretty much attatched to my chest. anyhow, the computer is an acer aspire 1520 with 512mb of ram 2600 intel celeron and a 40gb drive with xp, if that helps, but i'm kinda going with the faulty connection. thanks DUDE. If it's under warranty I would run to the service center!hi...i cant see a loose connection anywhere. i did forget to mention that windows performs a disk check everytime i boot up. this takes forever. also if i try to defrag it schedules chkdsk next time i boot before i can defrag, but stil never lets me defrag. could it be the disk needs replacing?Could be a little more than a hard drive failure... You haven't said - is it still under warranty? If not, personally I would sell the laptop and buy a secondhand replacement.

If you're in the UK and would like a hand with that, send me a PM.

Hi all, I hope you can help me.

I want to buy a new graphics card. I can use either an AGP 4x or PCI graphics card. I am aware that if I use an AGP 8x card in my AGP 4x slot, the card will run at the slower speed. Which would be faster, AGP 4x or PCI, and by how much? My computers PSU is only a 250w supply, and I know that most of the 'better' graphics cards need at least a 300w/350w PSU.

The graphics cards I am interested in are:

GEFORCE FX 5500 256MB DDR DVI TV - AGP
GEFORCE FX 5200 256MB DDR DVI TV - AGP
GEFORCE FX 5200 256MB Ddr Dvi & Tv Out - PCI

Which of the above cards would I BENEFIT from the most?

My pc's specifications are:

Intel Pentium 4 2.2GHz
512Mb RAM
200Gb Hard Disk
250w PSU
Windows XP Home

Thanx for any help received!

funkyspacemanAGP is the better choice; it's a faster technology than PCI for video performance. I can't say how much faster, but definitely faster. AGP was made just for video cards; PCI is an older technology and can be used for many devices (modem, sound card, network card, video card, ETC.)

Of the cards you listed the FX5500 is the top choice. Here's an excellent rebate deal on one from newegg.com, eVGA Geforce FX5500 256-A8-N313-LX Video Card - Retail

As far as power question, yes, you may be getting into a marginal situation. I suggest you visit http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/ and use the power supply calculator to calculate the power needed for your system with the prospective video card. You may be OK with your current power supply, even though the video card manufacturer may state a MINIMUM power supply (PS) of 300W. Again, I'd used the power supply calculator for some PRECISE info.

My system only has a 250W PS. Specs: AMD Athlon XP 2200, 512MB RAM (2X256), 1 hard drive (although I have had two hard drives running in it), two optical drives, nVidia GeForce4 Ti4200 AGP card, nVidia GeForce2 MX400 PCI card for second monitor, sound card.

Read the comments on the first page of http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/. They state some significant points there.

Does anyone know of a cheap way to watch video files in a LAPTOP through the regular TV? My laptop (Toshibe A100 Win XP SP2) has a S-video output, but my TV only has RCA and coaxial INPUT. I have seen converters SOLD online at a wide range of prices. Any GOOD experience?http://www.svideo.com/compaq1700.html
That how to connect it
To do it Cheaply?
What r u on about? you only have to download a files and play it on a laptop and you will see it on the TV screen

hey can somebody please help me, on how to identify whether my motherboard is acpi compliant or apm compliant, not using THe OS but using the HARDWARE i.e. motherboard or similar DOUBLE POST

Please see response to the other one. SORRY for posting twice unknowingly :-?This check your system info but i dont know wheather it will SHOW what you are searching for
http://www.majorgeeks.com/EVEREST_Free_Edition_d4181.html

[size=14]I REALLY hope someone can HELP!

I'm a complete novice, so i have no idea whats happened to my MONITOR. :-?

I turned on the pc this morning, it boots up as usual, then all that appears on SCREEN is a streaky WHITE screen! whats that all about? and how do i fix it?[/size]Which operating system are you using? Do you have virus and Spyware protection? Have you made any changes to your system recently?

Flame

In the picture below I UNDERSTAND the words in red are detailing my proccessor, but is the item circled in BLUE relating to my proccessor too? If so how is it DIFFERENT then the item before it.

It's a read of the ACTUAL speed vs. the designated speed for that processor. It is close enough. That was quick, Thanks

what is this ..... i had a linksys wireless network card on my cpu....i had to reinstall windows and now it doesnt recognize it.....however it does show a broadcom 4211 iline 10 network adapter what ever that is....also i removed my dial up modem to install the wireless ANDTHE dial up modem is showing up under my installed hardware.....................cansomeone help me pleasewhen i look it up on the device manager it says driver not installed. code 28http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=125174#XSLTH3503121122120121120120

You need to load the correct driver for this device. DOWNLOAD it and install through Device Manager, PROPERTIES,Update Driver. If you don't knowyour network adapter, use Everest (it's free) to identify:

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

What happened prior to all of this?

Delete the modem if it is uninstalled physically next, then reboot.

What happens?you guys are awesome. anway, i have 3 computers in my house. a laptop,a desktop , and another desktop in another end of the house.
the laptop and mydesktop are from gateway bothwith lynksys wireless cards in each of these. i have both of these linked to the other computer through a microsoft wireless router ...BAS station...
my laptop and the other gateway are bothworking together to the point that i can transferr files and share printers a ok.

the problem is the other CP.. it is a hp with a hard, ehternet card made by realtek..connected directly to the router....they all work online ......but the other two will not recognize the hp. and the hp will not recognize the other two.....i

i want to get these all to where i can transferr bween all three ....what i doing wrong

i have a dell DIMENSION 4550 and a 2.66ghz p4 northwood. i want to overclock it somehow but all of the programs ive tried arent compatible with the motherboard. the bios doesnt allow FREQUENCY or voltage changes either. any help?Dell's are not compatible with overclocking. They are not meant to be. As you see the MB is not designed for it. You MAY get some kind of minimal software workaround, but best to leave it alone. stupid dellsQuote

stupid dells

If a CD-ROM drive short is caused by the button that opens and closes the drive not working well, would there be any way to fix it? Do the buttons often have a spring inside? I wonder if that can be replaced by a spring from another drive's button mechanism.DarthMaul...... If cd PLAYER has a bad button causing a short ....... I wouldn't waste time playing around with it ....cd-roms are very cheap now ...replace it before you create additional potential damage to your machine as a result of the short.

dl65 Quote

DarthMaul...... If cd player has a bad button causing a short ....... I wouldn't waste time playing around with it ....cd-roms are very cheap now ...replace it before you create additional potential damage to your machine as a result of the short.

dl65

My other question would be, what would I need to do to get the new drive to fit the front bezel well, if the buttons are a different shape? I know I'll have to remove the front panel of the drive, but what about the buttons on the right? The new drive has two buttons, and the old drive only has one. The front bezel of the PC only will let one button through.... maybe the other button will wind up hidden. Of course, my other question is, will the button for opening the drive fit through the hole where the old drive's button was?

Also, would it be a good idea to install a 32X speed drive on a 200mhz PC that's running Windows 95

when i TRY to BOOT up my computer it says ntldr is missing and will not let me GO any further thank's for any helpJP Guy:

Have you checked the floppy drive for a floppy disk and REMOVE it?

Best REGARDS,
Doc

My Epson Stylus Color 777 printer won't "grab" and then feed the paper. There is no software problem. The printer itself is working properly as I was ABLE (just once) to hand feed the paper. It "grabbed" and printed a page just FINE. The ink cartridges are fine. There was never an "ink low" message, but just to be sure, I INSERTED fresh ones.

The green power light is blinking indicating that there is an instruction to the printer to print the original document I wanted to print. The red error light is on SOLID. I think the printer is erroneously reading a paper JAM. Those of you familiar with this printer will know that it is really a basic device. You couldn't jam paper in it without easily seeing the problem.

Help! Any ideas how to get the paper to feed down into the printer?

Thanks!!

ok i just built my friend a custom gaming computer and from wat all ive read all seems to be compatible so i just wanted to run it by you guys first cuz a 2nd opinion doesnt hurt...now the purpose of this cpu is:
1)play BF2 with maxed out graphics
2)be able to hook the TOWER up to a 40"hdtv lcd screen with as much clarity as possible

so here goes the specs:

tower- withthe tower im gettin the supplied 550w powersupply
http://store.yahoo.com/amamax/80casiatxmis.html

MOBO-gigabyte k8u 939 http://www.smksuperstore.com/catalog/viewitem.asp?ID=13873

memory- (2) 1gb sticks) 400hz 3200 http://www.buyaib.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6462&strVarSel=1142,1263,1266,1268&strCompare=

cpu-amd 64 3500

video-nvidia geforce fx 5700 2656mb http://3btech.net/chnvgefx258x1.html
tvarmy04...... Looks like that will work ....... but you might want to research the mobo and see if it wants a 20 pin ATX connector or a 24 pin EATX connector . You might also want to consider a higher quality vid card .......


dl65 for the pin CONNECTORS which would i want 20 or 24? and why also why would i need a higher vid card? isnt a 256MB good?tvarmy04.....Quote

for the pin connectors which would i want 20 or 24?

I had a Dell 4550 for several years. I have my OS and programs on one drive and most of my files on a second drive. It's worked well until WINDOWS crashed for the 3rd time a couple of weeks ago. I decided I needed a new computer anyway, so I ordered a Dell XPS 400.

The problem is, I've been trying to get the old computer up long enough to pull my files off. I can't get the computer to recognize my mouse, keyboard or CD drives. When I RUN the Windows re-installation CD it seems to go berserk and locks the computer up.I bought Aloha Bob with the new PC, but it needs to be installed on both machines to work.

Do I just need to pull the old hard drives and slave them into the new system to at least pull off my files? Will that work? and most importantly, HOW DO I DO THAT?

What other options do I have? My 2005 taxes and a lot of other important STUFF is on those drives.

THANK YOU!Quote

Do I just need to pull the old hard drives and slave them into the new system to at least pull off my files? Will that work?

I am trying to INSTAL windows xp, after a virus. I am unable to GET into the setup menu by pressing F keys on the keyboard, no keys seem to work. please can anyone helpMake sure your computer is set to boot to CDROM in the BIOS, insert your legal XP disc and restart the machine. Follow the onscreen prompts. Pay special attention to FORMATTING the drive to install fresh. If you don't, you will KEEP whatever problems were there before.

NOTE: You should backup your data FIRST!

My mouse doesn't work. I accidentally turned it off in selective startup. I can't access the tools/system configuration untilities without the mouse. Does anyone know how to fix this PROBLEM.Try SAFE Mode. Do you know how to do that?

FlameThanks for your help, but I kept trying to solve the problem in Add New Hardware and it finally worked.Well GOOD! COME back and SEE us if you have any more questions

Flame

I only have two USB ports on my laptop, and I accidentally broke one. I am planning on fixing it, but I was wondering if there wasn't some sort of device that you could buy that gives you more ports? I need to connect my thumb, my external, my web cam, and my printer all at the same time. Maybe I should make my printer wireless? Any suggestions? My PC has 4 USB ports, but I hardly ever use it because my laptop is so much more convenient.
;)Please advise! And all hail to my computer GURUS! LOL Yoiu can easily add a USB hub, but all those peripherals kind of destroy the portability of a laptop don't they?

HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817111490Your right, maybe I should ask my repair man to add more ports to the laptop? I hate to take it to him because he is more of a PC guy, and he has someone ELSE work on the laptop. That "someone else" takes a week to fix my favorite piece of machinery. I can't go ANOTHER week without my baby! LOL 8-)Well that link was to a USB 1.1 hub, but there are also 2.0 hubs available, DEPENDING on what your computer has. You just plug the hub into your one good USB port and then you can have up to 4 more ports available for use.

You still have just one wire coming from your laptop. No one needs to repair anything for this to work. You just plug it in. It would surely save some $$$ and meet your needs.

Yes, thank you! I THINK this will do the trick! This is what you want for a notebook: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16815124011
Yes, but how much would it be to install it?Free. Just plug it in.

I would like to know if it is nessecary to "burn in a new processer" I am afraid it MAY burn up instead of burn in can you help please?No burn in is required. If the heat sink/fan is applied properly and the PSU is adequate it should not "burn out". Why do you ask?Because Sisoft Sandra has a CPU burn in feature is this just for stress test???Must be. It won't hurt anything but I don't see the purpose unless you're curious. I am also thinking about overclocking my 2.4 P4 processor I have a 480 watt power supply so i have the juice for itI guess you can check it before and after you kill it.

I personally do not overclock things and don't recommend it.I don't intend to increase more that 10% And I will keek an eye on the core temp.If the temp runs too high I will turn it back. I suspect I got a higher CLOCKED processor that it was sent as because it says I have hyperthreading on it but it in disabled. Thanks for all your help!!!!Good luck and let us know. Overclocking is always a possibility but it is not a recommended practice.

Why?

Because the design engineers make a processor with a MAXIMUM rated capacity, then it is tested.

To add reliability under all CONDITIONS including variations in local voltage the processor is deliberately set at a lower SPEED than it is capable of.

What is happening here is this.

To make a reliable processor to run at 3.0 GHz the design engineers know that it has to be designed to run over that speed and then reduce the speed to a reasonable figure so that it is not running at its maximum all the time.

The same is true of car engines. You can take a high performance car engine and make it perform even more for racing, just in order to win. If it blows up they just fit another engine.

If your processor blows up all you will have proved is that you knew how to blow it up by overclocking it. This is not a good idea.

Better to leave it as it is and see if there are other things you can do with your system to make it perform better such as adding more RAM and doing good maintenance.

So overpowering and overspeeding are not good engineering principles.

Overclocking is not a good idea, especially as you don't have to.

[ch1046]

Hi,

I have two IDE controllers with three HDs and one CD-RW device connected. I followed Western Digital's instructions for Master/Slave jumper set-up and still get these errors upon booting:

Primary HARD disk drive 1 not found
Secondary hard disk drive 1 not found

Obviously it isn't finding the slaves (1 HD and the CD device).

One HD (at primary 0) and the CD device (at primary 1) are new. The HD works fine. The CD player works, but is CMOS displays UNKNOWN DEVICE.

Is it possible that the not compatible with my 5-y.o. board and therefore causing problems overall? Should I just replace the board?

peergynt

http://www.wdc.com/en/library/eide/2579-001037.pdfwhat i would do is disconnect everthing from the back, turn the power supply switch off, open your case and disconnect all of your ribbon cables from your drives and controllers. Then, for IDE port 1 plug in your CD-RW drive first, then with the second connector on that same ribbon cable plug in your MAIN HD. set the jumpers on CD-RW to master, and HD to slave. Then with IDE port 2and the second cable USE your NEXT, highest priority HD and set that one at Master, then the last one at slave. Clear CMOS and reboot and see if it works.Way too soon to suggest a new computer. It's just confused. Try the above and post back.Thanks sylent,

I just performed a bios update. It cured everything on the primary ide chanels. That means my CD device (primary 1) is now recognized and the OS disk (primary 0) works fine as before.

I'm still struggling with the secondary channels. The master drive (secondary 0) works, but the slave drive (secondary 1) is still having problems.

I'm afraid to swap drives (now s0 and s1) like you suggested because I might mess up the cmos settings again. I know I can purge cmos if necessary, butI want to leave the positions alone for now, if possible.

Gotta think about this for a bit...The bios update helped a bunch. It even seems to have quieted the fan -- I always suspected it was too loud.

Anyway, my primary channels still WORK fine (OS disk and CD). However, I'm having trouble with one of the disks on the secondary controller. Incorrect capacity values keep showing-up in CMOS. For example, it shows 4GB whereas it's acually a 20GB drive.

I've tried attaching that particular drive to both Secondary 0 and Secondary 1, but both positions result in the same values. I cleared CMOS between each CHANGE, removed all cables, etc. Regardless, CmOS always displays the wrong capacity.

Do you think my hd is fried?Quote

... However, I'm having trouble with one of the disks on the secondary controller. Incorrect capacity values keep showing-up in CMOS. For example, it shows 4GB whereas it's acually a 20GB drive. ...

hi all, BASICALLY what im trying to do, is GET it so that i can play music through headphones, and another song through the speakers, for a program called Virtual DJ.

i have the defualt soundcard in the motherboard, and i have a spare sound card, but would the PC be ABLE to RECOGNISE 2 cards, becuase it sets one to default, is there any way i can achieve the above?

THANKSIF you were able to, only one would be able to be used at once.

Flameif you are going to be using something like Virtual DJ, though, you might want to use the better of the two cards.well it isnt much use without being able to listen to both tunes, i know theres a way, i just dunn now :-/

I've got a problem with one of the SURROUND speakers that I've got with our Dell Dimension 8200 2.51ghz PC. The right rear SPEAKER has got a problem. I can HEAR sound coming out of the tweeter, but nothing comes out of the woofer. Would there be any way to get the woofer to work? These are Altec Lansing speakers, and the model of the set is ADA-995. I don't want to have to get a new set. Might have to eventually. Also, sometimes when I have the right rear speaker plugged into the subwoofer like the other FOUR speakers are (left front, left rear, right front and center), I hear a strange light popping sound coming out of the left rear, and sometimes the right front.Did you ever configure your speaker settings after installing them? I had a problem where 3 speakers woulnd't work... Do this... Click on Start -> Control Panel -> Sounds, Speech and Audio Devices -> Sounds and Audio Devices -> Under Speaker Settings, click on Advanced. A box will now appear. Play around with these controls to adjust how many speakers you have, and how powerful they are. If all the speakers do not show up, they will not work.

FlameI can further tell you about my problem, Flame, since I know it's not the soundcard settings that will help with this issue (I mean, I'm able to get accurate surround sound just fine; I've actually got a speaker problem). When my computer is off, but my speaker system is on (there's a power control on the back of the subwoofer), I always hear a quiet sound coming out of each of the speakers, that doesn't change with any setting I have, which indicates that the speakers are functioning to me. One of the speakers, the right rear speaker, has got a problem. The tweeter works fine, but the woofer doesn't emit any noise at all, or if I hear any sound when I play music or a wave file, the sound comes out very weak regardless of any settings. I've since removed the speaker until it can be looked at. There's a component loose in it.

A week or so ago, I turned on my computer and nothing came up on the monitor. I tried everything I could think of, including a different monitor, and taking the video card out and putting it back in.
After nothing WORKED, I brought my computer back to where I bought it and they replaced the video card. Everythign on the video end is fine now.
The problem I have now, is that my soundcard is also not being recognized by my computer. I figure that whatever happened to my videocard, has also happened to my soundcard. I've tried everything I can think of (but I'm not a computer expert by any means).
I don't want to bring it into the shop to have the soundcard replaced, as it would take 2 weeks for them to get around to it.
You guys got any ideas? It's not the drivers, I know that much for certain.
If you need any info on my computer, just tell me what you need.Identify the sound card, locate the drivers and install them. Use Everest to find the answer out to what card it is if you don't know:

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

What is the computer or motherboard make/model?
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-8IPE1000(-L)
Soundcard: Creative SB0090 Audigy Player Suond Card

I uninstalled all the drivers and installed all the newest ones. I still get an error whenever I try to RUN an AUDIO file stating:
"There is a problem with your sound device. There may not be a sound device installed on your computer, it may be in use by another program, or it may not be functioning properly".Did you reboot the machine after you installed the driver? What is showing under sound in Device Manager?I've rebooted yes.
There is alot of things under "sound, video and GAME controllers" in the device manager. I'll list em.

Audio Codecs
Creative Game Port
Creative SB Audigy
Emuzed EvapMaui Device
Legacy Audio Drivers
Legacy Video Capture Devices
Media Control Devices

*the following have a small exclemation mark on the icon*

Microsoft Kernel Audio Splitter
Microsoft Kernel GS Wavetable Synthesizer
Microsoft Kernel System Audio Device
Microsoft Kernel Wave Audio Mixer
Microsoft WINMM WDM Audio Compatibility Driver
MUP-401 Compatible MIDI Device

I'm going to assume the exclemation marks are bad.
If it helps, I also cannot ACCESS volume control on my PC.If i was you id boot up in safe mode and delete all the things under sound in Device Manager.

Id then take out the soundcard and place it back in the machine and reinstall the drivers.

Make sure you turn off the onboard sound if you have it.

I have a socket 7 on the motherboard of my pentium pc. I am informed that a 266 MHz is the fastest cpu that can go in there. Is this correct? At present there is a 166 MHz cpu in the socket.I believe 233 was the fastest Pentium I and then Pentium II started at 233 and also included 266. Good table here:
http://www.mcmcse.com/comptia/aplus/notes/processor.shtml

ps: there are good certificate exams' samples (Microsoft, CISCO) on this site and they are free. Real like exams with good questions. You may want to try.I'm not sure how accurate that is. They show a PI to 166, but they did go at least to 233. I've got one.

They show a PII up to 500, but I've never heard of one more than 450.

The Pentium Pro shows as up to 266, but I am unaware of one faster than 200. The 512K L2 cache was not present on all, as mentioned. Some came with 256, and some with 512.


As an aside they show the 386 up to 33 Mhz, but that was when AMD made my day by producing a 386-40.

I hope all of their info is not this inaccurate.
Now I understand why I got dumped because of the answers gave I , based on that site...I thought I was right.

Also many of my exams answers are ALWAYS wrong...Their fault PROBABLY too... This table is better: http://www.geek.com/procspec/procspec.htm

To reseat my RAM, do I just pull it out and put it back in. I have two DIFFERENT STICKS, and I want to reseat both. Do I just turn off my computer and do it? And are RAM Sticks extremely seseptible to static?Do I just pull them out and put them back in and they work?I have 2 GB (2x1GB) OCZ Dual CHANNEL Platinum RAM.This will help. It's very simple and just takes a minnute (literally) or less.

http://www.hardwarecentral.com/hardwarecentral/tutorials/50/2/

i have an OLD dell pc/win 98 and my sound cards don't work.when i insert a cd it tells
me i don't have drivers,but i do.if you ask me it's not read the cards right.When did this start? Have you made any CHANGES to your system recently?

FlameLook in Control Panel/System/Device Manager and see if any sound card is listed, or if there are yellow exclamation marks or NONE listed. Post back the RESULTS of your quest.

What happened is indeed a good question. Do you have virus and SPYWARE protection? How old is the computer?

Flame

Hi hows everyone today, i hope everyones having a good weekend so far. I would like your opinion on certain things
1)when ever i turn on my pc since i got it ,there's a weird noise which just pisses my dad off, as it quite loud at night. It didnt bother me for years but now to myself as well its a pain in the *censored*. So i opened up the pc case and heard closely to the MOBO, i saw the CPU fan and it was the one making the loudest noise, after my power supply and hard drive. It's a very basic CPU fan and i don't think it costed me more then 5-10$. So i am thinking to buy a new quiet CPU fan which isn't so noisy plus i dont want to spend alot of money. I went to tigerdirect.ca and check in this section which products they have and now i am very confused as there are many many categories and different types/models of FANS.
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/category/category_tlc.asp?CatId=99

What do each of these sub-categories mean What kind of cooling products does each of them represent

2)i would like to know what to look for when buying a new CPU fan Like any compatibility issues with my system Some1 told me about sockets and stuff whats that ?

3)how can i find out what type/model of CPU fan i currently have ?(i checked my CPU fan by unplugging it and all it says is INTEL)

4)what kind of properties/options should i look for in a CPU fan if i am looking for something which is very quiet

I don't want to spend alot of money yet get something nice. Please visit this link and point out some few nice cheap CPU fans which are compatible with my system, and state why you choose that particular fan.

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/category/category_tlc.asp?CatId=99

My computer:
Windows XP, Service Pack 2
Intel Celeron, 1.1Ghtz (1100mthz)
128mb Ram
15gb HDD (Harddrive)
Asus Tusi-M MOTHERBOARD

Thx in advanceNoice can come from the CPU fan, the power suppply or case fans. If you are sure it is the CPU fan look at these. They are not cheap, but worth seeing.

It sounds like you have a stock Intel fan on there.

I would listen VERY carefully to determine where the noise is coming from before you invest. There are quiet PC power supplies also.

I do most of my work on a PIII with no CPU fan, just a heat sink, (and no case fans) so sound is not an issue. Now don't make any rude comments, because I am sure it outperforms your XP with 128 meg RAM!
Quote

Noice can come from the CPU fan, the power suppply or case fans. If you are sure it is the CPU fan look at these. They are not cheap, but worth seeing.

It sounds like you have a stock Intel fan on there.

I would listen VERY carefully to determine where the noise is coming from before you invest. There are quiet PC power supplies also.

I do most of my work on a PIII with no CPU fan, just a heat sink, (and no case fans) so sound is not an issue. Now don't make any rude comments, because I am sure it outperforms your XP with 128 meg RAM!

I have two external hard drives, and I did something to make them switch DRIVE directories. The G drive is now F and the F now G. How can I reverse them so they are back to normal? My I TUNES can't find any of the songs because the directories have changed.

Cheers
DaveIf this is XP, enter diskmgmt.msc in the START>RUN box. Right click a drive/partition and select "Change Drive Letter And PATHS".
Move drive f: to z:
Move drive g: to f:
Move drive z: to g:

please someone tell me where can i get a laptop hard drive jumper from. it seems to be smaller than the 3.5 version. my drive was set to cable SELECT when i LOST it.How about your local computer REPAIR shop? THey probably throw those out on a daily basis.i live in a remote location, i've asked in some places but they only have 3.5 versions

AMD Athlon XP Pro (5.1.2600) SP2 2500+ 1833 MHz (Barton)
512 KB L2 Cache, 1024 MB Ram
NVIDIA GeForce 6800 (128)

For a while now whenever I start my computer it will start up with all these flashing foregn characters and I can only see a couple things and if I let it run it will not finish the Windows XP loading scheme but will cut out and a blue screen will pop up saying the DEVICE driver got stuck in an infinity loop and I have to restart it in safe mode wich allows me to GO online but there are still these green lnes and funky crap all over my screen...does anyone have any recommendations or advice on what to do about this?The exact content of the blue screen is very important. Try rolling back the drivers to ver 5672.thanks for the quick reply...the exact message is as follows:


"A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent damge to your computer
The problem seems to be caused by the following file: nv4_disp

The device driver got stuck in an infinite loop. This usually indicates a problem with the device itself or the device driver programming
the hardware incorrectly.

Technical information:
*** STOP: 0x000000E4 (0x864A4DA8, 0x86455520, 0xF7AA6CB4, 0x00000001)

nv4_disp
Beginning dump of PHYSICAL memory
Physical Memory dump complete
Contact SYS admin for further support"[size=12][/size]Please do not PM me regarding such matters. Keep to open forum so that everyone can see what's going on.
Boot to Safe Mode and remove all traces of the Nvidia drivers. Reboot, search for the set that I mentioned above and install those.
Do not download drivers from Windows Update!

I am building a brand new computer, and while everything is working, when I installed Windows XP, I found my hard disk drive is in drive I, instead of C, all other drives are before it, in fact, they are in the opposite order I would LIKE them. I know I can change the order of the other drives through XP, but how do I change the drive of the hard disk? I don't mind starting over, reformatting, whatever I need to do, as I haven't set up anything really anyway. Is this something I can do through BIOS or did I connect it wrong somehow? Oh and for information it's a brand new hard disk, the only one in the computer, then I have a DVD drive, DVD burner, and a card reader.You'll have to start afresh as you can't "move" the boot drive.
What system do you have? Is the drive an IDE device or SATA/RAID/SCSI?
How is it all set up in the BIOS?The hard drive is a western digital serial ATA

what am i LOOKING for in BIOS?oh i also forgot the desktop board is Intel D945Psn and OS is Windows XP Pro if that matters.jpstafford... Perhaps you could MENTION .....
How many hard drives you have ...and do you have them partitioned and if so how ?
How many optical drives do you have ?

which IDE controller are you using for the HDs ...... primary or secondary ?
Are you using any external HDs ?

Which IDE controller are you using for your optical drives .......... primary or secondary ?

Is your card reader ....internal or external and is it a USB interface ?


dl65 thanks for all your help, but i did finally FIX the problem. It was the internal card reader CAUSING the issue. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer )

Please help me decide which one is a better bang for the buck

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1224484&Tab=11&NoMapp=0

OR

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1222391&CatId=0

Thx in advanceI use Logitech and I have never had a PROBLEM with them. They have my vote.I also VOTED for logitech , thx alot i appreciate your help I am going to order the logitech one.Good choice. I have a logitech headset myself. My speakers are Logitech too. OH look at that, so's my mouse Never had a FAILURE once from Logitech.

Flame

My cd-drive wont read any cds. Most of the cds I have has auto-loads up whether its a game.. or a burned data cd but now it wont auto-load. And when I check my f-drive (where the cd contents are usually at), there is nothing! Please help, (my SPECS are in my sig)Given the cost of CD units and their limited LIFESPAN, after perusing DEVICE Manager to SEE that the device is present, the best way to check this out is by substitution.Have you made any changes to your SYSTEM recently? Have you tried System Restore? So you have protection from viruses and Spyware?

Flame

I BURNED some files (mainly VIDEOS) onto some Maxwell 80min 700mb cd-r's and I've been using it on and off for a few days WITHOUT any problems. But when I loaded it acouple of minutes ago, my computer says the disc is blank and that there are no files in it. And Nero also opens up and ask if I want to burn files onto an ALREADY burned disc! So, I did the Nero burn set-up and when the screen comes up with all the files, it has the files that I ORIGINALLY burned but they have x marks on them and theres no way for me to open them.. Please help or tell me at least whether its my cd-r's fault or my machine's fault.

contact ===> [emailprotected]It's likely that you're not "finishing" these CDs. Ensure that "No Multisession" and "Finalise CD" are selected during the CD creation process.Sounds like you have more than one drive issue. See my last post. Maybe it will help. Who knows.

Flame

Hi,

According to my brother, his T2615's power supply died. He replaced it with a 350 watt power supply and it powers up but nothing appears on the screen.
The fan is running when powered up and I checked every connector and it appears to be in place. I ALSO notice a red LED being lit when powered up; I found out that it is a memory module indicator. I am clueless right now. What could be the problem and what should I do next? Please help!

Thanks,

Kevin
Remove and reseat the RAM and all cards.. What HAPPENED when the power supply died? Perhaps other components were damaged or knocked loose during the repair.As GX1_Man suggested, I reseated the RAM module (found dust on one of the chips and around some pins, but don't know what to use to clean it), but it did not help. But I think I did not describe the problem more accurately. What I failed to NOTE was as soon as I switch the new power supply to the on position, the light on the power button turns on. Then I press the power button to turn on the PC (screen remains blank). I cannot turn off the PC by pressing the power button, I have to switch off the power supply.

I also inserted a Knoppix Linux Live CD at power up to see if it can do anything but nothing appears on the screen.

Maybe something failed or not connected correctly in regard to the power supply/power button? What specific step should I do next?

Thanks,

Kevin
Recheck all the wiring from the motherboard to the case. Something is wrong there. I found out the motherboard is L7VMM2. The case is either ATX or micro-ATX (not sure).
I was able to find the L7VMM2(2.0).pdf on ecs.com.tw.
I recheck the connection from case to motherboard and found the following possible issues:

1) The CASFAN1 is not connected but I don't think there is a case cooling fan connector (if there is one, how does it look like?).
2) There is no case LED cable (how does it look like?) connected to SJ1/LSJ1.
3) Don't know why 2 orange wires are crimped into one pin (pin 20 I think) of the ATX 20-Pin Power Connector.
4) HARD drive was connected to IDE2 so I switch it to IDE1.

And, I think the biggest suspect of my problem is:
4) PANEL1: found 3 pairs of 2-wire connectors to it. PANEL1 is for case switches and indicator for power switch, hard drive activity, reset switch, and power/sleep/message waiting LED. I suspected the connectors are not connected to exactly the right pins from what I can see. So I pull them out. To reconnect them I want to make sure exactly what are they for. 1 connector is red and WHITE wires; another is white and green wires; the third one is black and white wires. I can't find info for what they are.

Please tell me where to find the information I need or tell me what they are if you know.

Thanks,

KevinI was able to find info about the wires coming from the front panel. I spotted the wires for the power/sleep/message waiting LED was not connect correctly to PANEL1 and so I connect them to the right pins. Now the power button would not light up when I switch on the power supply (previously green light was shining up around the button). When I press the power button it powers up the PC and the amber light shines around the button. Still, nothing appears on the screen. Pressing the power button to turn off the PC still does not work. Does it matter which way the 2-wire front panel connectors go into the pins of PANEL1?

I tested the hard drive by replacing it with another working, bootable drive and it did not make a difference. (the current configuration is hard drive as master on IDE1; DVD-ROM and CD-RW as master and slave, respectively, on IDE2).

Otherwise what I observed and listed on my previous post remain the same. Please help!

I have a TV Tuner Card CASIO Model DU120 which has a problem. The video cable to the PIN is broken so I wanted the pin configuration in order to fix it. I'm also OPEN to ideas and suggestions as to how I can RESOLVE this issue.

Yours in distress!

After installing a program CALLED MusicMatch JUKEBOX, I was unable to work my CD-RW. It was working fine previously because I had used Windows Media Player to import a CD, which was used through this drive. MusicMatch forced me to use the DVD drive in order to import the CD. I installed a final program "AVLORD CD ripper" because MusicMatch was just working horribly for me. I had noticed that the problem persisted and tried to re-enable my CD-RW drive, but that was hopeless because the computer responds by saying that it cannot enable it. Yes, I have uninstalled both programs.

My drive is a NEC NR-7900A. I see it in my Device manager list, but I cannot enable! Please help!When did this START? Which OPERATING system are you using? Did you download MusicMatch from a legit source?

Flame

I'm a complete novice so please be kind! I want to replace the processor in my old and cheap PC in order for my son to play his new game.
Bear in mind I'm on a tight budget and need to try upgrading if possible before having to buy a new PC.
I have an emachines 330 - 1.0GHz, 256MB, 128KB, 100MHz Sysem Bus, 20GB Hard Drive. I apparently need a 1.3GHz processor. Will one work with my machine and could a novice INSTALL one?
I have changed the video card and increased the memory, but that's all of my experience so far!
Any suggestions will be gratefully received. :-/Check with eMachines on their website or by e-mail to SEE what the maximum CPU that motherboard could take.

You can DOWNLOAD Everest for free and run it to see what the motherboard specs are, but since it was an OEM by some big name maker there may be other restrictions.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlMake sure that it is just a 1.3GHz processor that you need.
Post what game it is your son wishes to play so you can be certain of what upgrades you will need, if it's a new game you will have to upgrade far more than just the processor.
Like you said, it is an old and cheap PC, good idea to double check first.Thankyou for the suggestions.
The game, incidentally, is Lord of the Rings, Battle for Middle Earth.If you're thinking about a 1.3 gig. Celeron that might not be PARTICULARLY helpful. What processor is in there?

Also keep in mind that minimum requirements do not indicate good PERFORMANCE. What about the requirements for the graphics card? Just as important.

Hi how is everyone today. Long time no see, well i have been busy with work and my website. Anyways I would like an opnion from you guys and gals regarding an hard drive issue

1)for the past month or so my hard drive makes a weird clicking noise(this happens randomly once or twice a week or so) and right after that my computer hangs up/crashes and i have to reboot it. I am guessing my hard drive is dying out and the clicking noise is made when the hard disk spindle stops spinning and then tries to spin again thus crashing my windows XP. This is not a spyware/virus problem as i have installed a new copy of windows XP and scanned all of my drives with no virus or spyware to be found. So i want to know whats your OPINION on this.

2)even if my hard drive is not dying i will still have to purchase a new better and bigger capacity hard drive. So i want to know what are the majoy/key points to consider before buying a new hard drive Is there a step to step guide out there which i can read and then decide which hard drive will suit my needs

My computer:
Windows XP, Service Pack 1
Intel CELERON, 1.1Ghtz (1100mthz)
128mb Ram
15gb HDD (Harddrive)
Asus Tusi-M Motherboard

Thx in advanceQuote

...for the past month or so my hard drive makes a weird clicking noise(this happens randomly once or twice a week or so) and right after that my computer hangs up/crashes and i have to reboot it. I am guessing my hard drive is dying out and the clicking noise is made when the hard disk spindle stops spinning and then tries to spin again thus crashing my windows XP. ...

1)what is an interface and why so many different types of them

2)also is it possible for me to change the interface of my computer I have seen interface adapter which are quite cheap, are they compatible to all systems Will they work with my Asus Tusi-M motherboard

3)i also read somewhere that to get the maximum pottential from a harddrive i should purchase a harddrive which has interface speed matching to my computer. How can i find out whats the interface speed for my computer

4)why do they have OEM term describing a harddrive What is this and is it important to have it ??

5)last but not least is it a good idea to get a refurbished hard drive which costs half of what a brand new one costs It is comming with a 6 months warranty. Why yes or why not ?

ASUS TUSI-M motherboard. The mobo supports all coppermine CPU's and up to a 1400 Tualatin Celeron CPU. Supports 66/100/133FSB, up to 1GB of PC100/133 SDRAM, 2 X UDMA 33/66/100 IDE connectors, supports a total of 5 USB ports, onboard sound and video, one AMR slot and an onboard LAN

This google has just about all the links you'll need to get the specs on your motherboard:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&rls=HPIC%2CHPIC%3A2006-07%2CHPIC%3Aen&q=Asus+Tusi-M+site%3Aasus.com&btnG=Search

Best regards,
Doc

I have a Shuttle XPC, if you aren't familiar, they are very compact cases that have one AGP and one PCI slot. I am running a ATI 9600 All In Wonder. I have decided to go dual monitors, but the 9600 only has one VGA output. I have a integrated graphics CARD, but when I plug in a AGP card, Windows doesn't seem to recognize that I have it. Is there a way to do it with the 9600 and integrated or must I buy a cheapo PCI card to run duals? Appreciate the responce! Thanks, ScottUsually an AGP disables the integrated video, so you would need another card. How big is the PSU on that little box. Can it take much more?PSU is definitely made just for the shuttle. It is very thin and long. Well thanks for the HELP! I geuss I will shop for a pci card then.Well, I meant how much power does the power supply put out, rather than how big physically. Ususally those are pushing to get 200w.I believe it is a 250W. Oh the card is a 9700AIW, sorry for the confusion. THINK it can handle another vc? Maybe I should get one without a fan then... speaking of which. Does anybody have any suggestions for a good card for this application? The second monitor can't really play games or anything. I imagine the most stress it will experience is a full screen movie.

My laptop was baptised (water only) by my 2 year old - with the cover closed, and computer off.

I dumped out and dried out the laptop, removed the hard drive, back covers, and cleaned it out. After about 24 hours, I booted it up, and it worked pretty well, aside from an intermittent issue with the internal wireless card (which was cleared up by rebooting any time the wireless was off).

However, after a week of working okay, it's gone back to bed. The computer itself turns on - power lights, CAPS lock, CD tray opens, but the HD light doesn't come on, and I get absolutely no boot up/bios info on the screen. (this same type of problem exhibited itself after about 8 hours of drying initially).

I have removed the HD and reset, reset the ram modules, but I am at a loss as to where to turn next for TROUBLESHOOTING, and especially why after a week of working well, it's gone back to not working.

Incidentally, pressing the power BUTTON does not take the machine into hibernation - which would indicate (to me) that indeed, it's not a display issue, and the computer is not even getting around to loading the bios.

I've admitted defeat - any suggestions?

Thanks,

BrianIt's a rare computer that would be worthy of keeping after a dip like that. As there really are no USER serviceable parts inside, I would toss it and chalk it up to experience. You're lucky it went on that long. You gave it your best shot. Perhaps I MADE that too dramatic? He dumped a glass of water over the top - he didn't dump it in the tub. Either way, I might have to take the cost of repair/new computer out of his college fund Oh, he's 2. Give him a break!

Seriously, a water immersion, even a small one, is quite a serious thing to electronics components. You just can't dry it off quick enough.
You'll doubtless find some sucker repair technician who'll buy it off you on eBay, in its non-working state.

I'm a TOTAL newbie on this site, so I'm sorry if I am posting in the wrong place.

I am building a PC from scratch and I cannot GET it to start. I am wondering if it has something to do with the front panel wires not quite matching the motherboard.

I have:

motherboard - elitegroup K8T890-A (ATX compatible)
PROCESSOR - AMD Athalon 64
case - antec P150 minitower (also says it's ATX compatible)

Also have SATA HD, vid card, 1gig RAM, DVD drive, etc.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone could TELL me if the front panel wires not quite matching could be the reason the computer won't start--even THOUGH I can hook up both start and restart in the right places and leave the LED ones off. Or is there any other reason why it won't start?

Thanks so much. :-)

Hi,

I'm considering the D-Link di704p Router. It's got an integrated printer server, however, I'm using an Epson multi-fuction print/scan/copy device.

As far as I know, D-Link uses its own software for printers, rather than the software that comes with the printer. Will it work with a multi-funtion device such as mine?

In other words, will D-Link's software enable me to use the scanner function of the device?

pgWhat does D-Link support say?Support doesn't say anything about multi-function devices. That's why I posted here.Did you e-mail or call their number? It may not be listed because it is a non-issue. Best to make sure.isnt it better to use the printer off one of the computers and then share that to the network.? Well i GUESS it depends on what you want to to with it. Do you jsut want to have access to it form other computers or what are you trying to do with it?Hi!

Thanks for the replies. I did call the service number, but they didn't know the answer -- as I suspected :-/ However, I did find something on the D-link site that stated I can use the printer's own software to steer it. The document I read previously MUST have been outdated because it stated that only the D-Link router software could be used. That's what got me worried about this in the first place.

I though about setting-up my Windows 2000 Server as a domain controller and running the printer from it. But then I'd need to have the server running all the time. Normally, I only need it for the database when I'm programming or when I'm saving files to the machine.

In worst case, I could connect it directly to one of my workstations. It would just be a pain to switch from one machine to the next all the time. I MIGHT just buy the router and try it.
I have a D-Link router and it requires nothing above the printer software to work correctly. Sounds good.

I assume you have a 'wired' router, not a 'wireless', am I right?

The thought crosses my mind whether I should get a combo wired/wireless. Seems like the encryption and MAC filtering on most NEWER models would provide adequate security for wireless connections.

I'd probably just get a seperate print server and hook it into one of the LAN ports. DECISIONS, decisions...It is a wireless router with 4 ports for wired connections as well. I believe a DI-524? It is a few years old but is a wirless G model.

Does anybody have any info on how to pick a USB Bluetooth Adapter? I SEE price ranges from $20 to $80. The more expensive seem to have security added, which I think WOULD be important. It will be used in my home. Right now, I only have my bluetooth phone, but of course as the market expands, I want to be prepared.

Does USB 1.1 or 2.0 compliant speed up data transmission?

Do I need security?

Some devices have more powerful tranmissions. I can't think of any reason that would I need to TRANSMIT out to 300 feet.

Any other featurs to consider?

Would there be a better/different forum to ask this under?
USB 2 has a much HIGHER transmission rate. Yes, but does it matter with Blue Tooth? Does Blue Tooth transmission rate approach the USB 2.0?

I was wondering if it is possible to use two sepreate computers to do the same job. Not neccessarily over a network. I have two laptops that both run WinXP and I want the two to share their resources. So basically I want one computer to be the master and the other computer to just be a slave and do work all of the time. If anyone knows how to do this please let me know.

ThanksSo you want to network two computers to share resources? Please be a little more specific about what you are trying to accomplish. With laptops, a wireless router and 2 wireless cards (if they don't have onboard wireless capability) would accomplish basic networking.No i don't just want to network them. I don't just want to share files. I want to run a program on a machine and have both machine use their processor to do the job. When I said resources I meant computer resources like memory and processor resources. I was wondering how I could tell the scheduler to make this work.

ThanksNot worth the effort and expense with only two computers. This is getting into the realm of grid computing. Even if you could afford the (extremely expensive) commercial software, you might not get the desired results. Some software does not easily lend itself to this type application. Of coarse, if you are a SUPER duper programmer, you might be able to write your own grid application. so there is no pratical way of doing distributed computing with two laptops. I am an expert programmer but I do not think I can accomplish that task by myself. So is this a no dice with distributed computing.

ThanksIt would go on my "lost cause" list. Not so hasty!

Have you not heard of OpenMosix?

It's free. Naturally, it's Linux-based. Jebus !

Ive been thinking about doing something like that since i started using Maya, and 3dsMax

Rendering takes many bits of power.

I'm going to go and See if i can royally *censored* up all my computers now.

Recipe for Destroying an entire network.

Add one PanboyWindowsUser + Unknown Linux Distro + Cluster Networking = Lots of smoke
Dose any one know If maya Has a linux version i know theres a mac Version, and im not found of Open source alteritives. But if you know of one could u tell me.

Maya the GRAPHICS package? I doubt it has been ported, but there is a heck of a lot of graphics software available on *nix platforms.

It's all fiendishly difficult to use, of course.

BEAR in mind FOLKS that parallelism is something software must be designed to utilise. (Using semaphores, and other such stuff I don't remember from my comp. sci. theory days...) And two computers working on one task never equates to twice the speed. There are always collation overheads, waiting overheads, etc.

is it normal for a power supply to have the FOLLOWING readings... -12 reads a 7 nd a -5 reads a .65 while the +12 is a 11.85 and the +5 is a 4.88 ? do those sound good. my 3d games keep crashing to windows and i cant figure out what is going on.
thanksi dont think your - 12 should Read +7....

but i dont know much about power , but IM prety sure it should be a lot closer to a -12.....

i think a few volts either way is ok, but if you negitives are reading as positive either you read it wrong or , its not right at all

What are you using to measure these voltages? A correctly calibrated professional-grade voltmeter?im using speed fan, and they actually arnt positive, its negative, i just typed it as a givenThis topic caught my interest. I also have speed fan installed and I've wondered about the -12V reading. It shows "-0.18V", a much greater deviation from the -12V than your -7V reading. I don't know whether this is anything I should be concerned about, although it seems quite odd. I can also access my BIOS and get a reading there. I'll check that and see whether it's consistent with speed fan.

You .65 reading for -5V also looks weird, doesn't it? Hmmm, so does mine. My system shows a postive 2.84V for the -5V rail, as I believe they're called.
I just accessed my BIOS and went to the screeen that shows voltage info. It simpy shows no such thing as -12V or -5V. Maybe that explains why speed fan provides weird data for those items; it can't find any valid info in my hardware and, THEREFORE, just generates freaky data.I guess speed fan might make something up although it seems to me no data would be better than fake data. HOPEFULLY someone else may add thier two cents as wellpcj240ross.......
If you want a decent app to monitor those things as well as provide a lot of other info on your system ...try out PC wizard 2006 .....
http://www.freewarefiles.com/program_9_91_14191.html
the voltage readings it provides are pretty accurate .

dl65 I have just noticed you have posted more TODAY that you ever had before and it seems to me that the only reason you are posting is for some reason you’ve decided that i am the most terrible thing that has ever happened.

I however have an opinion of my own directed at you it goes like this.

An non-productive poster who pops up every blue moon , with the sole intent to discredit another poster that he knows little about , with out posting any relevant information other than malformed insults , has got to be the most retarded type of person there is.

I would like for an Admin to look at your recent slander of me, but I don’t believe that they would consider it to be offensive, but it is harassment
Nothing uses the (-) voltages anyway, so why bother reading them. The +12, +5, and +3.3 should +/- 5% of optimal.Quote

An non-productive poster who pops up every blue moon , with the sole intent to discredit another poster that he knows little about , with out posting any relevant information other than malformed insults , has got to be the most retarded type of person there is.

I would like for an Admin to look at your recent slander of me, but I don’t believe that they would consider it to be offensive, but it is harassment