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Hello. For about a week now my computer has been running noticeably slower than usual when starting up. How long it takes seems to vary but it is longer. Also, the computer seems to stutter when I open new programs, although it's hard to detect this it only seems noticeable when I have sound in the background (like a game or windows media player). Speaking of games I've also recently had the computer just shut off and RESTART while playing World of Warcraft. I don't know if it would do this with other games I've not tried any. I've also had some problem with some corrupted files on the hard drive but I'm not sure if that's related.

Anyway I've not changed anything recently hardware wise. My computer is a bit old THOUGH (about 5 years now). The specs are:

Intel Pentium 4 3.06GHz Processor
1 Gig ram (2*256 and 1*512, used this for over a year never had any problems)
160 Gig Hard Drive
Ati Radeon x1650 256Mb AGP 8*
C-Media AC97 Sound card
Windows XP Home Edition (With a disc that came with the computer) With SP2

Thanks in advance for any help you might be able to give.it may be overheating. when was the last time you cleaned it?I gave it a decent cleanout about an hour before I posted the message. The fan was a bit dusty, the heatsink even more so, but I cleaned them both off.Run the regular maintenence:
Diskclean
Defrag
All your malware scans

Then check on your available free space on that HDD...you may need to free up some room.If its slow whist you're using programs then do ctrl + alt + del
click the process TAB and close some of the processes that you recognise under your PC user, don't close any SYSTEM processes unless you know what your doing. But i had this with gaming stuff like this. Xfire and MSN messanger make the computer slower QUOTE from: patio on February 14, 2008, 07:03:04 AM

Run the regular maintenence:
Diskclean
Defrag
All your malware scans

Then check on your available free space on that HDD...you may need to free up some room.

Is it slow at booting as well? Or just when you use it

My HP 1510 All In Ones scanner just died and I'm needing to buy a new printer/scanner of another brand, probably a Canon this time. I was wondering how this will effect my HP Image Zone 4.7 When I scan items I normally I go into the HPIZ and press "From Scanner" will this still be the case when I USE a Canon product ? or if the Canon has it's own system do I still keep the HPIZ on my computer ? I noticed in the "Add or remove programs" the HP Image Zone 4.7 uses 269.00 MB and under that the HP Extended Capabilities also uses 269.00 MB. I'm not sure if that's allot so I'm wondering if those programs should be removed if the Canon system won't be USING them ? what happens to all the scans ?Each print scanner is different and comes with it own software. You MITE be able to use the program but you should install them driver as it will cause problems. All your scans will be unreadable unless you have another program that can see them.What file format are your old scans? Scans are usually in a standard file format like .jpg, .gif, .tiff, etc. If this is the case then you won't need the HP Software to view them in the future. Your new scanner should come with its own software and you can avoid hassles by uninstalling the HP software before you install the new software.

Quote

Posted by: squall_01 All your scans will be unreadable unless you have another program that can see them.

Quote

Posted by: squall_01 All your scans will be unreadable unless you have another program that can see them.

Squall, please qualify this statement. It is confusing. Are you stating that existing scans will be unreadable or that future scans will be?

A lady at work gave me a system that her brother patched together for her to get her by until she could get a new machine. This was a hideous beast composed of an EliteGroup K7S5A Pro mobo, 1.15 ghz AMD Athlon processor, 256 MB PC 2100 RAM, and a Radeon 9200 Pro AGP video card (overkill) all in a broken, sideless, void-filled case.

She told me that she had been having problems with the system rebooting itself (virus?) but a new HDD fixed this problem. However, lately the system would freeze up on boot. This, combined with her son's desire to play higher end games, inpsired her to get a new system with her tax RETURN money.

Always willing to take free hardware, I took the machine home to see what I could do with it. When I booted the system for the first time at my house, I expected to see a billion programs running on start up. Much to my surprise, there were few programs running and the machine responded VERY well considering what was under the hood.

I tried investigating the cause of the freeze ups by first scanning the memory for problems using MS Memory Diagnostic. The RAM came back error free. Next, I scanned the HDD using SeaTools. I again found no issues.

I ran a virus scan, both at boot time and in Windows and only found a few adware hits, which was surprising considering she was not running any real time protection.
The next day I told her about how the system worked just fine for me. She responded that her brother said the same thing. I asked her if she had been online during these freeze ups and she said that she was. Neither I, nor her brother, were. We are hypothesizing that the freeze ups may be RELATED to her Belkin router, not the PC itself.

My next step was to free the system from its unsightly enclosure. A friend had an unused case that although broken itself, was leaps and bounds better than the current. I removed the mobo and video card and dusted them with some air. I am surprised that the GPU fan could even spin for all the dust that was in there.

Upon further inspection of the mobo and video card, I noticed some brown crusty spots scattered here and there. It looks as though someone at some time had spilled Coke or another dark soda on the board and it had dried and crusted. I am going to assume that the substance had dried before the next power up, as I can't imagine a mobo surviving a liquid contact while in use.

I have been trying to clean the boards with 91% alcohol, toothpicks, and a toothbrush. It is not easy. Should I even bother? If I can get it clean and get everything put back into a case, what do I do next? How do I make sure that this substance did not cause any permanent damage to the mobo, CPU or video card? Is there a mobo/CPU reliability TEST out there? What about for video cards?

Should I just chuck this thing or what?

I really don't care so much about the mobo, but I would like to consider selling the Radeon 9200 if I can be sure that it is in GOOD operational condition. It will also need to look good. I can't sell a card to someone with soda (?) on it.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

PKLiquid and electronics is a bad combination.
There is no definite way to make sure the hardware haven't been damaged. The best you can do is to stress the hardware, by doing benchmarks for example. Maybe some of the older versions of 3DMark.
But you're saying the computer is not freezing at the moment?

The Radeon 9200 was a budget card when it was new. What can you get for a budget, used 4-5 year old card? 10 bucks? I wouldn't waste my time cleaning that thing.Well, in the 3 hours that i had the system running with virus scans, RAM test, and HD tests, no, there were no freeze ups.

I meant 9700, not 9200. Does that matter?

Someone suggested dielectric contact cleaner.

PKQuote from: Allochthonous on February 12, 2008, 03:31:40 PM

I meant 9700, not 9200. Does that matter?

Hello, great site. Ive done a bit of research already but Im not sure I know exactly whats going on.

What Im getting is 5 beeps shortly followed by another 5 beeps. The only BIOS report type I could find that has 5 beeps is 'AMI' (http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtml). It says its the motherboard.

The power GOES on fine - all the fans kick in (cpu, graphics card, small one on motherboard, PSU and 4 auxillary case fans - yeah, its NOISY as). The beeps COME in and the monitor says no signal.

The strange thing is when the motherboard has one stick of RAM in (instead of the two it came with) it only gives one set of beeps. I removed the graphics card, network card and sound card one by one. Ive tried using a different pair of RAM sticks and Ive tried putting the RAM in the 'B' slots (there are 2 pairs of slots). All the leads inside the case are plugged in but its still the 5 beeps.

SYSTEM SPECS
AMD X2-4400
A8N-SLI 939 ASUS motherboard
single NVIDIA 7900GT (came with a 7800GT but it broke)
2 GB 'Corsair Value' RAM (two sticks)
250GB Caviar hard drive
Creative Audigy 4 sound card
Enermax Noise Taker 600w PSU
4 extra fans.
Windows XP Home (always kept fully updated)

I bought it custom built from wired2fire.com two years ago (only got 1 year warranty, DOH!)

If it definately is the motherboard, do you know what the replacement of the A8N-SLI is (its discontinued)? Then all Ive got to work out is how to get the CPU out and into the new motherboard...Try the RAM in slots 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 and see if you still get the same beep codes...That didnt work, thanks anyway.

I went too far and unplugged stuff and plugged it back in and now theres no power whatsoever. Im going to run it down to a PC shop and see if they can fix it.

This is my system
K8M800 M7A Mainboard
Sempron 3100 cpu
2GB RAM
Nvidia Geforce 7600 gs agp
This system is OLDER but I cant afford a NEW system, Would it make a BIG difference in game performance if I upgrade to an AMD Athlon form a sempron?The bottleneck may be the BOARD itself...it maxes out at 800 FSB speed and supports only 400Mg speed RAM...i'm not sure a beefier CPU would make that much of a difference...
Wait for a few other opinions though.What socket is this, 754?

I tried searching and cheking the FAQs and came across nothing that helped. If this has been addressed elsewhere, I apologize.

I have an NEC ND-3540A DVD+/-R drive on my Gateway 8310M that doesn't behave itself. It won't recognize blank cds at all and when I INSERT a dvd for burning, the label in windows explorer changes to "CD Drive". I can't burn from windows explorer or Nero Express. The only program that will burn anything at all is Nero Back-It-Up and that's BUGGY, too.

I have tried uninstalling the drive and rebooting and uninstalling the Secondary IDE Channel and rebooting to no avail. All the drives are in "DMA if available", not PIO mode. I also tried updating the driver, but I appear to have the most recent driver available. Also, troubleshooting the drive reveals no problems. On the recommendation of a few friends who have had a lot of problems with it, I have also uninstalled all Nero programs and still no change.

Unfortunately, I didn't have cause to discover this problem while it was still under warranty. But I've been needing to burn more discs lately, so any help is appreciated. Keeping my fingers crossed

In the interest of full disclosure, I have a standard DVD drive on here, too, that doesn't work at all. But if I can get the combo drive (super drive?) working, I don't really care about the other one.

Finally, here is all the other info I can think of for my machine, whether you need it or not.

Gateway 8310M
Windows XP, Media center Edition, Version 2002, Service Pack 2
Pentium 4 3.00GHz
512MB RAM
250GB HD



Thanks. Sorry for the long post.
Hmmm you've got two drives that doesn't work? On the same IDE channel i presume?
Could you try the BURNER in another computer?How many different brands of blank media have you tried ? ?Deerpark: I think they're both on the same (Secondary) IDE Channel, but to be honest, I'm pretty quickly GETTING over my head here, so I don't know for sure. And unfortunately, I have no other pc to check the drive on.

patio: I have only tried TDK CD-R and DVD-R, but I was able to record on them occasionally using Nero Back-It-Up, so it doesn't seem like that's the problem, does it?Some burners are picky about the media...borrow one from each of your friends til you find a brand that works...

I have a dell dimension xps, gen 2. I have a SADA hard drive and would like to add another drive for backup and storage. I want to add a IDEE type drive. I believe I'm supposed to set the drive as a slave but the PIN configuration on the SADA drive is different. There are only 4 sets of pins with a plastic cap on the third from the left. How do I set this drive as a MASTER?The SATA should take priority over any IDE DRIVES and need not be jumpered...
Set the IDE as slave and connect it to the middle ribbon connector and you should be fine.Thank You.I installed the NEW hard drive.The CPU is not recognizing it. When I boot the machine I get the message, Press F1 to continue or F2 to go to setup. Do I need to do anything else?QUOTE from: wanderer on February 14, 2008, 08:20:52 AM

The CPU is not recognizing it

I have a SADA hard drive

I want to add a IDEE type drive

I am old guy new to COMPUTERS. I have an 18 month old PC with "Proview" monitor. Just last night wjen I switched on the monitor/computer the monitor stayed on for only 2 seconds and switched off. I repeated the on/off routine 10/15 times and eventually the monitor stayed on. This morning the process repeated. I noticed HOWEVER, that just before it switched itself off each time it was very dull. When at last the colour CAME up fully, the monitor stayed on. What might be the problem?Sounds like the monitor is DYING but check the monitor plug for any bent pins just.
If the plug is fine you should try the monitor on another computer just to make sure it is the monitor.

Whenever I use my BUILT in mic, my volume LOWERS, then when I stop talking, it raises again on my computer. I've only noticed this with WINDOWS Live Messenger, and thats because thats the only thing I use my mic for.

And a different PROBLEM: When I have windows media player going and I try to use my mic again in the previous instance, my mic wont even work all together. it just doesnt have any input at all. But WEN i pause or stop windows media player, it will work again in the previous instance.

I brought up the topic of mental arithmetic when I said I did not need a calculator to CONVERT degrees C to degrees F. This prompted another person to POST a well known old riddle which confuses "number blind" PEOPLE.

My 5 year old Compac Presario laptop has been sitting in my computer case for about three weeks while using my newer laptop..when I TURNED it on the screen will not light up.. the desktop is very faint I can HARDLY see anything and I did try SEVERAL times to brighten it up using the correct button... I rebooted a couple of times but nothing worked ..any suggesstions ?

I just looked at another site and it seems it may be the Backlight or LCD needs replacing.. anyway to isolate which one may need replacing Thank You!Sounds like the backlight... if you shine a light at the screen from the front, does the display look like it is working?

The cost of repair may be greater than its value.

Thank You for your reply..

When FLASHING the light, still can't see much ..You won't see a great deal, but if you can make out something, for example the Windows start button down in the bottom left corner, at least you know the LCD panel is working. You wrote that the display is "very faint" and that you can "hardly see anything". If I understand you correctly from that, it sounds like the LCD is still visible but very dark, and that suggests the backlight is not lighting up very brightly.

But it might not just be the backlight lamp itself which is faulty. It could be the cable or the inverter or even the MOTHERBOARD. You really need to get an diagnosis/estimate from a repair shop.

I have NO IDea how to find out what type of motherboard it is.

can someone tell me how.



um... do you know what BRAND, name, or anything about the motherboard you could tell us? WITHOUT that info it would be very hard to tell YA what type it is.Quote from: aziangamer on February 13, 2008, 05:27:08 PM

I have NO IDea how to find out what type of motherboard it is.

can someone tell me how.

The downside about epsons (one of the many) is that the print head unit is not ALWAYS removable, and therefore difficult (if not impossible) to clean. I hope you are able to remove it.I'm not sure ones a c66 and the other is a c82. www.epson.comDon't have any rubbing alcohol right know. Is there anything else that I could use. I found a c82 manual.This is a silly statement...rubbing alcohol is about 29 cents a pint at any Drugstore.I can't since I'm not a legal drive.Where are you...in the middle of Wyoming ?
Is no one you know going to the drugstore in the next month ?No I live outside of a town in PA. Today I will but I wanted to save some money and just in case I don't end up going. The closet thing is a half hour drive.Quote from: squall_01 on February 08, 2008, 04:01:24 AM

No I live outside of a town in PA. Today I will but I wanted to save some money and just in case I don't end up going. The closet thing is a half hour drive.

I have some know the c82 was really bad.

My USB quit working and I can't figure out how to fix it. I use Windows XP. Everything has been working fine SINCE I bouth the machine two YEARS ago. A couple days ago I plugged in a thumb drive (which I have used many times before) and was told the "device was not recognized" by windows. The thumb drive still works at my office. Now my PRINTER is "not recognized" either. I am not terribly computer savy, do I have SERIOUS problems, or is there an easy fix for this?

ThanksI think the patio's (another forum member) regimen is called for here. Open Device Manager. Go down to Universal Serial Bus controllers and expand that section. Right click on each item and uninstall it. Close Device Manager and restart your computer and let Windows reinstall the USB drivers. Now, see whether your computer recognizes your USB devices (flash drive, printer, etc.).Thanks for the ADVICE. It worked and all my USB tools are working.

I have about an inch worth of BLACK LINES on my CRT MONITOR they continual flash with EVERY keystroke or click of the mouse. My question is, is it the monitor or VIDEO card?
ThanksTry monitor on another computer.

I'm new to the forum, and i can't find a PLACE to post my question. it's a hardward problem, but of the minor, and therefore "other" category???
i push power-on sw. for computer, and it turns on [i see the fans come on], but within seconds it turns off, before the monitor can illuminate. i do this two or three times, sometimes turning the main I/O switch off. sometimes the single beep sounds.
SOMEHOW after "X" number of these combinations of I/O switching with pushing of pwr sw the power manages to stay on long enough that the monitor lights up, and all is well.
I am only guessing at this, but maybe i've got the pwr sw installed on wrong pins?
but i can't find a wiring diagram for this mobo; can't find its BRAND and model i mean. this is an old and fine unit. USING Athlon 700mHz cpu, 3 dimms of 256MB each; ethernet from router. just installed new 160GB HD.
even weirder is: i have another pc that i've been hacking around on, switching out power supplies and cleaning fans, and it suddenly started having this same kind of failure--i power on, and it starts just long enough to 'fail'. ouch, i hate that.
can't find any problems at all with surge protector or any 110 V. problems.
most important, tho--when the first mentioned problem pc is running, it is magnificent--i'm reinstalling the OS including security and virus stuff anew,. So it has to reboot, occasionally, and it always does so successfully; and the machine stays running.

the second machine isn't at issue, in my QUERY here.
thanks for pointers.
hispanosuiza

Hi, I would like to know if the Western Digital Passport External Hard Drive would work with my Toshiba laptop (A100-SK900E), I have seen reviews of the hard drive itself saying that it will not work with SOME laptops, will this work with mine?Seems most likely any problem is associated with driver availability in the operating system being used. Drivers are available in XP but not in SOME versions of Vista. Here's a link to comments by other owners. Below is an extract dated Jan 25 this year..Quote

Like Coolreem, I have spent hours trying to research this drive. WD Support is useless. They kept insisting that something is wrong with my USB port, the drive itself, etc. After 2 hours with Dell Support and upgrading a USB port just for the heck of it, the drive still does not work. Works great on my XP! Some have suggested reformatting the drive itself but I haven't FOUND a way to do this yet. Upgrading to Ultimate is not an option for me - I'm not putting out the money for the upgrade just so I can GET this Passport to work.

As much as I hate to admit defeat, I think I am throwing in the towel on this one and looking for something else. I'll just consider this POOR DECISION making on my part and a lesson learned. I will NEVER buy another Western Digital just because of the name value. After the utter nonsense from their support department, I may never buy another Western Digital product period!

You can buy a powered USB hub to run it off of...

I want to upgrade my video Card For BETTER game play on COD4. They Recommend ATI x1900 or better. I have a Dell DIMENTION 8400, Pentium 4 3.00Ghz 3.00gb ram, Running XP.Price range 150 to 200 dollars. And will I NEED a better cpu processor? Any ideas for a better video card?

Hi there,

My LiteOn burner can't burn anything properly and I'm not sure what's the problem..
in the process of burning or COPYING a file from a dvd or cd, the system unit just shuts off automatically..
does anyone know what's the problem? i tried googling it but no results were given..

just a slight information, i'm using:

LiteOn 20X Super All White (lightscribe) dvd/cd writer & rewriter
MSI K9N SLI Platinum (socket AM2 only) motherboard
Enermax Noisetaker II 485W

Nero 7 Essentials (startsmart essentials)
Windows XP

thanks for the help in advance.

Matt
Quote from: matt777 on February 10, 2008, 05:52:02 PM

the system unit just shuts off automatically..

What do you mean by this? Do the computer power off?

Is the burner the only drive on that IDE channel ?
Have you tried replacing the IDE cable ?

My friend's stopped functioning properly. This is the only information I was able to retrieve (Sony Vaio PCG-K33 Intel PENTIUM 4) about the laptop. Whenever he starts his laptop its shows the logo and then it blinks like its on to go to Windown XP logo loading but the screen just turns off to black yet the laptop is loading and fully functioning. He purchased the laptop about two months ago LOCALLY from someone else and didn't KNOW that BIOS Setup has a password set which he doesn't know, but I think its accessible if password was available. If pressing F8 then the options of entering Safe Mode, Networking mode, etc. comes up but whenever I pick one the screen turns off again. No new software or hardware installed.

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

- Ultimatumhi there,
the problem you have here is a dud screen which sadly is expensive to replace ,there is a sure fire way to find out thou,do you have a monitor you can hook up to laptop?,if so try it and restart,as for the password you mention these are normally left blank so just tap ENTER there and you should be away.
good luck and let us know how it,s going.Quote from: treslek on February 14, 2008, 04:10:41 PM

hi there,
the problem you have here is a dud screen which sadly is expensive to replace ,there is a sure fire way to find out thou,do you have a monitor you can hook up to laptop?,if so try it and restart,as for the password you mention these are normally left blank so just tap enter there and you should be away.
good luck and let us know how it,s going.

P.S. If in fact the laptop has been BIOS protected by a password and the seller does not have the password contact the manuf. and be prepared to pull out your wallet.

If SOMEONE is running WINDOWS XP with a ATI motherboard graphics and S3 video CARD can you run Multi monitors at the same TIME? And if so how do you configure it.No.
One or the other.
You will need a graphics card that SUPPORTS dual monitors...

I am running win xp pro and I have a Analog to Digital converter box an ADVC-100

I can connect a VCR or anyhing up to it and it connects to my PC through a Firewire.
So I can bring video into my pc and capture it and edit it.

Do you know if there is a Free program out there that will display the video imag in FULL screen?
What I meen is my ADVC-100 box brings any video signal in to my computer through Firewire so I REALY just need a program that will display the image full screen and I can watch TV.

Because I have a Cable Line hucked up to my VCR and the VCR is hucked up to my Analog to Digital convert box and that brings the video into my pc throught Firewire.
ThanksU need to get vistaQuote

U need to get vista

I have an LG L226WTQ-BF 22 inch widescreen flatron MONITOR. I've noticed that if I power it off, it sometimes will not power back on from the on/off button, and the only way I can get it to power on is to disconnect and reconnect the power cable. So instead of dealing with that I just LEAVE it on all the time (so that it goes into sleep mode when I power off my PC). Is this something normal with lcd monitors? Is leaving my monitor powered on all the time OK, or is there something I can do to remedy this issue?Quote from: roccenstein on February 20, 2008, 10:07:11 AM

Is this something normal with lcd monitors?

Is leaving my monitor powered on all the time OK

save people a lot of time and headaches get a new monitor and dont get lg

Is this something normal with lcd monitors?

Quote

i didn't mean him harm of any sort. sorry if it feels that way ... or has patio and BRONI just gone crazy ?

but i still wonder what is wrong with the windows media player.

were all a little crazy here

I'm running a dual core amd athlon 64, I was testing my new xfx 8800 gt 512MB in my computer, after removing my old 8500 gt files of course, when I started it back up I hit the no Sync on my monitor neither of my cards work I have a Nforce6m-A motherboard running 4 gb of ram, I can't seem to figure out what the deal is... Everything powers up in my COMP, video card fan runs my other 3 fans run my power supply is 580 watts, and my liquid COOLING WORKS.. I checked all the cords so what could this be, any help would be so greatly appreciated!!

a friend of mine has a computer and wants to connect to the internet but when he tries he gets a message modem not working error 10 what could be wrong and how can he fix this we ran a pc wizard and here are the results see below
Owner: BEACON AVENUE FOOD BANK
Organisation: FOOD BANK/RAYMOND
User: RAYMOND FRAZIER
Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.01.2600
Report Date: Thursday 21 April 2011 at 23:58

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


<<< System Summary >>>

> Mainboard : Asus P2B-F

> Chipset : Intel i440BX/ZX

> Processor : Intel Pentium III @ 550 MHz

> Physical Memory : 128 MB (2 x 64 SDRAM )

> Video Card : Nvidia Corp Riva TNT GUI+3D Accelerator [NV4]

> Hard Disk : Maxtor (6 GB)

> CD-Rom Drive : ATAPI CD-RW 52XMax

> DVD-Rom Drive : ATAPI DVD-ROM 16XMax

> Monitor Type : COMPAQ FX700 - 16 inches

> Network Card : 3COM Corp, Networking Division 3C905B Fast Etherlink XL 10/100

> Operating System : Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.01.2600

> DirectX : Version 9.0c

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
***** End of report *****


the computer does not detect the modem and we can not run the trouble shooter through windows because you need a password and we do not have it Is this a company computer? And is this an external or internal modem and is it ADSL or Dial-Up?

-StephenDoes your modem show up in Device Manager without any errors?
You may need to DOWNLOAD fresh driver:
http://www.3com.com/products/en_US/detail.jsp?tab=support&pathtype=support&sku=3C905B-TX
Uninstall modem through Device Manager, turn off your computer, reseat modem, turn your computer on, and let Windows find freshly downloaded driver.The modem is not listed in the report...
But you could try swapping in another Network card and see.
someone told me to go into the add remove and remove it and then restart the computer so i did that and then when i restarted the computer it was not detected as they said it would be so i had to go into and add it and now when i look at device manager for it. it shows a yellow circle with a black mark in the middle what can i do to get it to work the operating system is windows xp and i have to use a public computer to ask for help since i do not own a computer and i am not too familiar with computers
Quote from: Broni on November 15, 2007, 08:16:27 PM

Does your modem show up in Device Manager without any errors?
You may need to download fresh driver:
http://www.3com.com/products/en_US/detail.jsp?tab=support&pathtype=support&sku=3C905B-TX
Uninstall modem through Device Manager, turn off your computer, reseat modem, turn your computer on, and let Windows find freshly downloaded driver.

when i look at device manager for it. it shows a yellow circle

when i look at device manager for it. it shows a yellow circle

which one do i use for the modem

Is this a company computer? And is this an external or internal modem and is it ADSL or Dial-Up?

-Stephen

What type of connection do you have? Dial-up, DSL, cable, satellite?

it has a place to plug in a phone line

you could try swapping in another Network card and see

I had just built a computer a while back ago. But I get an ocasional error from time to time, Disk Boot Failure, Insert system disk an press enter. I do and it restarts to my BIOS settings. I exit it and restarts an it tries to install xp. I remove the power cable to the harddrive and reconnect it. Boots into xp but doesn't see the D drive at times. Reconnect the cables to it and windows scans the drive and runs okay. Then the error starts again. It's a Pentium 4 Socket 478, BioStar Board P4M80-M4, DDR RAM 1 GB, SATA Drives 160 GB 300 GB, HDA Digital X Mystique 7.1 Gold, Radeoon X 1300DLoad and run the diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site...it sounds like that drive is failing.
You could also try a brand new SATA cable on the drive that boots.
Make sure all power is disconnected...It was a refurbished drive, but I get the error even if I set the Slave SATA to be a masterUnless the slave has an operating system installed on it this error will show up....
Try what was suggested.Okay, but you lost me. Where ? ?Where you mentioned DLoad and run the diagnostics from the HDD manuf. siteIf it's a Western Digital drive visit their site and DLoad and run the FREE diagnostics on that drive...
If it's a Seagate drive TRAVEL to their site and DLoad and run their FREE diagnostics on that drive...
If it's a Maxtor drive travel to their site and DLoad and run the FREE diagnostics on that drive...
If it's an IBM/Deskstar drive travel to their site etc. etc.I GOOGLED the matter and found what I needed but I want to know since I'm running a Maxtor 300 gb 7200 RPM 16 MB SATA/150 3.5 Harddrive if this would work for it or not? Heres what it said to do.

My hard drive is a Maxtor DiamondMax 10 6B300S0 (300GB, SATA(II)150, 7200RPM, 16MB, NCQ). The stock firmware was BANC1B70. When I contacted Maxtor, they informed me I would need to update to BANC1BY0 first... then update to BANC1E00. They sent me 2 files... BANC1BY0.EXE and BANC1EE0SABRE.EXE. Here is the flashing procedure...

1. Create a bootable Windows 98/ME diskette
(WinXP - go to My Computer, right-click A:, select Format, check the "Create MS-DOS boot disk" option, click Start button)

2. Insert boot diskette into floppy drive and run BANC1BY0.EXE
(check the "Writing on floopy" box and click OK... the Disk Image utility will extract the firmware to the diskette)

3. Insert ANOTHER diskette into floppy drive and run BANC1EE0SABRE.EXE
(the Disk Image utility will extract an image to the floppy disk)

4. Boot from FIRST floppy and flash firmware
(reboot PC with floppy in drive, at the C:\ prompt... type "DLOAD /I", when asked to confirm flash... tell it ok, may have to select top option SAYING "Download Firmware..."

5. Reboot with new firmware, and update firmware again
(reboot PC with SECOND firmware boot diskette in drive, it should autorun, you may see an error about E0Z flash mismatch, tell it to ignore and flash anyways [Maxtor told me this was a known issue], select the top option saying "Download Firmware..."

6. Reboot PC again with new firmware

Well if Maxtor is telling you this is what you need to do I think you should follow their advice. It sounds like there's a known issue with the drive.I got this off a site with the same problem but with a differnt HardDrive. I just want to know if the same PROGRAMS would work on mineNo I would not recommend you try that.
Firmware is drive specific and flashing it with the wrong firmware will most likely turn it into a paperweight.
I suggest you follow Patio's advice and test it with the proper drive diagnostic utility.
The one you need is called SeaTools and you'll find it on Seagate's site. (Seagate bought up Maxtor a while back so that's why it's from Seagate.)I'm going to try an contact Maxtor Monday to see what all I need. But this should work the same way?SeaTools would be the same as doing this?No updating the drive with new firmware is not the same as running SeaTools.
The firmware is the software that makes the hard drive function. SeaTools is a tool that test whether the hard drive is in good shape and error free.
The reason you should be careful with updating the firmware is because, if anything goes wrong it will most likely leave the drive completely inoperable. Only Maxtor would be able to recover it then and that will cost you. No warranty covers accidentally flashing the drive with the wrong firmware.

Just WONDERING if my cpu died somehow, would my computer not power up at all? As in, no response if i hit the power switch?

Oh, and my PSU is fine, I have tried replacing it.

I think it might be a motherboard problem. You would still hear the fans power up, HDDs would spin, CD/DVD drive would make sounds. It does sound like it could be the motherboard.
yea, thats what i thought... I am just trying to exhaust every possibility i don't want to buy something i don't need.

thanks though!Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails. USUALLY the last component installed is the culprit...though not always.

Alan <>< its possible that the motherboard has failed. have you tinkered with the inside of the computer prior to this happening? is it a possibility that you might have pulled out the power switch connector?I have stripped everything from the computer and slowly added each component back in, i haven't got any response from the power switch at all. I also tried a different case, just in case the switch wire was bad.

Again, I dont get annnyyy response at all, no matter what PSU, or case its in. If I could get any SIGN of life, then i could trouble shoot myself, but -_-...

Thanks for the insight people have given already!

Im going to assume the motherboard is dead i guess.
-jeffHow many PSU's have you tried and were they all used ? ?
I'd borrow one i know that works and try it before i would buy a new MBoard...Patio

Well, I have done 2 things, i have tried 2 different PSU's on my current machine, and they didnt work. But, i tried the same PSU's on an older machine, and they both did work.

Anyone know a good am2 sli ATX motherboard? my old one was ATI, and i really wanna GO SLI.the best SLI chipset you can get with an AMD CPU is the 590i chipset, you will not be able to get a 680i or 780i chipset with an AMD CPU, at least not at this moment.

heres two good 590i AMD motherboards.

ASUS M2N32-SLI Premium
ASUS Crosshaircan a dead CMOS batt cause no power up?Quote from: btjl90 on February 24, 2008, 08:05:08 AM

can a dead CMOS batt cause no power up?

New member..first post...sorry if ALREADY discussed somewhere...
trying to make CD/R of digital pictures...have the files ready to go to disk,
put the CD-R in the tray, and TRY to write to the disk...but get a mesage that
"there is no disk in drive E". Have been able to this in the past, and now unable??
You must first download Guided Help. To start, CLICK the following LINK.


http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060

Abit IP35-Pro Mobo, Intel Quad core forgot the model...that really popular one for overclocking with air. Crucial Ballistics 1066 ram, Nividia 8800GT from BFG Tech, Antec 500 watt PSU, and some computer case with a front panel that shows some basic stats like TEMP, and if fans are spinning.
Okay, so a few days ago i turned off my comp and i was getting ready to go to work...the comp shut down completely until it started up again after like 5 min. That was the first incident. The second incident was at night, i turned off the computer and WENT to SLEEP and my front panel which glows blue started to flash on and off. The computer itself wasnt running (no fans were spinning) just panel flashing. I got pretty scared so i shut off the PSU in the back. Now today...i get back from school and i want to turn on the comp and when i push the power button it turns on and off real quick, it doesnt even get to the point where the fans begin to spin it just rapidly just turns on and off until you turn off the PSU from the back. I checked the wiring in the computer case it seems pretty normal. My guess is its gotta be the case's wiring or something becuase i noticed even before when the computer was running the front panel would either be back lit or it would turn off..it was just acting funky. If anyone has an idea what it could be??? maybe im looking over something real obvious. PSU...new or used ? ?
Either way what make and model is it ? ?
I'm judging by the specs that this is a home-built ...correct ?
A few things to consider...
Did you use thermal paste when assembling the heatsink to the CPU ?
If you can get into the BIOS you should check to see if Wake on LAN is enabled.
If it's a used PSU you may want to borrow another working one of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see if this is the culprit.
Also does this fancy case have any power management features built into it ? ?

Let us know....SmartPower 2.0 for the power supply modular. i got it for 9 dollars from staples lol, pretty good deal. The powersupply now is discontinued. Home built is correct. It was my first build and im pretty proud of it. The motherboard has a red led on it indicating that a power supply is connected, and a green led to indicated the mobo running. In addition it has a diagnostic led display showing codes as it goes thru the POST. the problem is that the computer doesnt even go thru the POST, it doesnt reach that point before it reboots itself again. Also the diagnostic led display doesnt show any codes except 1.0. when the power supply is connected. Im puzzeled becuase this kinda happened last night too but i fixed it by just constantly trying to boot the comp. so this problem seems very inconsistent in its behavior.

Update: I was messin with it and i got it to turn on. but when i shut it down to turn on again it didnt go. T_T
Question: Can it be a bad power supply still?
Update2: I MANAGED to get it up and running again. Are there any programs i can use now to tell me information about my power supply? or if anything is wrong?
Update3:Computer was running now for several hours. I am running 1066 Mhz ram on a 800 Mhz mobo, but it said this mobo can handle the 1066Mhz. i havent bumped any voltages up or anything.
Update4:Restarting computer does NOT seem to affect the situation. Only cold boots.
Update5: http://www.xoxide.com/x-purity-case-lcd.html is the EXACT case i have. Quote

SmartPower 2.0 for the power supply modular. i got it for 9 dollars from staples lol, pretty good deal.

hi guys my laptop touch PAD is not working from last night what can be the PROBLEM if any can tell me i think that is not hardware problem can any tell me about its setting thank you in ADVANCE... PLEASE, we NEED more information.

What do you mean by "not working?"

Is it not responding at all? Is it showing up in device manager?

What operating system are you using?
Have you changed anything recently on the computer?
Has anything happened (dropped it, spilled liquid on it, etc).

Oh thank you so much for you response but i've done it by myself that was disable from control panel i've enable it and now working thank you again glad you got it working.

p4 2.8 ghz prescott w/ht, 2x1gig ddr2 @ 533mhz dual channeled, 200 gb 56000 rpm WD hard drive, 80 gb 5600 rpm samsung HD, 8800gt OC, Sony DL dvd/cd +- recorder, cd drive, dell 305W PSU.

I have a gateway media center. I have had many problems with the mother board which has been replaced along with the power SOURCE. All was running fine untill I up dated my adobe reader and things got slow and were running slow and could not get on the internet. My IP appeared to be running fine so i deleted the adobe updates and did a defrag. still acting up. So I did a SYSTEM restore. And we had a power outage while I was running the restore. Now my computer will not start. It powers up but I just get a black screen. As I said I have a gateway media center with windows XP. Have fried my computer. And as it turns out it was a problem with my IP not my computer or adobe.....

THANK you for your help

TrishIf I'm ready correctly, Windows XP won't BOOT and you want to fix it.
Do you have a disc with the operating system or a restore disc?

Quite simply I'm having issues with my desktop, and this is how it started. I have no idea if all of this backstory info is relevant, but it could be for all I know.

Computer specs:

250 gb HD 7200rpm
2x 1gb GSkill ram 800fsb
Diamond Radeon x1600 Pro
PA1 MVP mobo - PHOENIX BIOS
Dual core PENTIUM D 3.4ghz 800fsb

Last Saturday I was watching movies on my computer that I had torrented the day before. I'd just DL'd a codec pack for the new .mkv (or something like that) file type a movie was in. I also had downloaded a new PLAYER from a reputable source, and it worked fine. Then I watched a few movies and turned off my comp.

The next day, I watched the Matrix when I got up and then I had to go somewhere around 12 pm. I was going to leave my computer going, but I got that blue error screen that just happens sometimes and so I rolled my eyes, manually shut the computer off, and left. I got back and played some Guild Wars, and I got the blue screen again before I went to bed.

Next day was school, and when I got back from it around 5 pm I turned on my computer. This time I got the blue screen a few minutes after I logged into my user, about 5 minutes total after I turned the thing on. I rebooted, got it again at the same time. As for the actual screen errors the first thing was a .sys or something file. The next wasn't a file in the error message, but it actually said something about a memory error. So not really knowing anything else to do I swapped out a few memory sticks, but that didn't work.

The next day I tried the same thing more or LESS. I rebooted it several times but nothing happened except for it giving me a blue screen error some time between that light blue login screen and a few minutes after it logged in.

Then something weirder happened. I booted the computer up and it just refused to recognize the mouse or monitor, as neither displayed any sign of working. The computer stayed on, though. I rebooted it *again* and I somehow got logged in, but when I opened Internet Explorer it locked up. This happened a few times again when I got lucky and logged in safely. Somehow I uninstalled the codecs before the thing was completely unresponsive.

The computer INTERMITTENTLY went between these 2 scenarios, but it quickly shifted toward more not recognizing my monitor and mouse.

This is where it is now. ANY information and advice would be much appreciated, and thank you for reading.bumpWe will need to know the error code and any files mentioned in the blue screens you're getting.

Does anyone KNOW is there is a solution for TRANSFERRING a RAID 0 setup from one COMPUTER to another? I had a motherboard crash on one computer and I do not have the backup for the RAID 0 data. I want to transfer 2 SATA drives set at RAID 0 to a new computer. I only need for them to be read, not to set them as a boot drive.build a new computer u know will work next timei do not believe you can recover the data on the two SATA hds. what you could try THOUGH, is to add a third harddrive and install it as the boot drive. then set the other two as data disks and attempt to rebuild the RAID 0 ARRAY. i dont really think it will work, but it might be worth a shot.

P.S. disregard KnowItAll's post.

Hi people,

I wonder if anyone has experienced this problem and might be able to suggest a possible approach to resolve it?

I have a Gigabyte 8S661FXM-478 with a Celeron 2.4 GHZ, 2 x 256 MByte DDR 333 MHz, 1 x 80 GByte + 1 x 4 GByte HDD on IDE-0, and a couple of CD drives on IDE-1.

It has on-board SOUND, AGP video and LAN.

I assembled the PC from parts, and it worked fine for a while with Windows 98SE installed and running.

Then it started to hang at random TIMES - it would just stop dead, sometimes as Windows was booting up, sometimes before Windows even got started, sometimes while Windows was running. Same thing if I booted off a DOS floppy disk - the PC would just stop dead. Nothing would respond, not even the Reset button. I'd have to switch the PC off and then back on again.

After one of these episodes in which the PC would just stop dead in its tracks, subsequent attempts to restart the PC would yield no display, no beeps, but definite signs of life as both CDs and the HDs came to life, and then appeared to cycle through the same process of coming to life again and again, repeatedly, as evidenced by their little green lights lighting up for a period, then blanking out briefly before lighting up for another go, etc.

Now, in this state, the PC was effectively useless. No POST, no beeps, no nothing, just the endless cycling of what looks like the very FIRST steps of the computer starting to wake up.

I don't think it's a RAM problem - I replaced that several times.

I don't think it's a PS problem - replaced that several times.

I don't think it's a HDD or CD problem, as they all work swimmingly well when the PC is working.

Could it be a CPU problem? I don't believe so, and I'll elaborate a little on that, but I'm still open to suggestions.

The thing is, if I leave the PC for a few days, come back and start it up again, lo and behold it sometimes boots up again, apparently without any problems. And away we go again, happy as two pigs in a sty, until the PC decides to do it's "drop dead" thing again.

The thing is, I can't see a dodgy CPU causing this sort of problem, simply because by my way of thinking, when a CPU dies, it usually stays dead - forever. This PC keeps coming back to life.

I updated the BIOS to the latest available version (F8, I believe) during one of the periods when the PC was acting like a proper PC again. I thought that had fixed the problem, until it happened again, and again, etc.

Lastly, I will note here that, in researching this matter, I read a couple of forums on the Web in which people described identical pathology with the same or similar motherboards (eg, same chipset, different MB makers). Those forums were somewhat dated, and no solutions were offered in those cases. BUT the problem was identical to a "T", right down to the CDROMs behaving as if they were repeatedly being initialized, over and over, without any POST or beeps or screen displays at all.

I'm hoping that the reports of an identical problem being experienced by other people mean that my situation isn't unique, and that some common identifiable issue is at the crux of the matter.

So that's my story (for now).

Can anyone suggest what might be going on here?

Thanks for any help.The last time I had a similar experience the video card was grounding out on the chassis. When it wouldn't boot I REMOVED the motherboard (and the video card), power supply and one hard drive from the case. I put all those guts on an anti-static bag (one that the motherboard came in) on a table. I then connected the power switch to the motherboard, the power supply to the motherboard, video card, and hard drive, connected the monitor and all was well. (This brought me to the conclusion that there was a grounding issue.) It's also possible that some other connection was not quite right and I corrected it upon reassembly.

Ok, I just installed a new CD burner. I tested it, and it worked fine. Played back on the COMPUTER and on my cheap stereo.

BUT, when I tried the same cd in my car - nothing. Nor will it play on my expensive stereo.

This is the same brand of cd's I used before the new burner, and they play fine on everything.

the only thing that has changed .. is this new burner. What is the problem ? Can anyone help ??

Windows XP
ATAPI DVD A DH20A4P (new burner)

It's the same brand of burner that I had before .. just better because the old one burned out. Any additional info needed, please ask.





Computer burned CDs not playing in car player - it happens.
Why not on regular stereo? I'm not sure. Try different brand of CDs.What format did you burn the tunes in ? ?Same as ALWAYS. Like I said, I have changed NO settings, no software, or formats or anything. The ONLY thing different is the burner itself.

I am using the same CD's that I burned before the old burner died . They worked fine before, why not now ? As a matter of fact, I have tried different CD .. I have now tried TDK, Memorex, Verbatim, Khypermedia AND a GENERIC Office Depot brand. same results. They burn, they play on my computer and on my cheap stereo, but they will NO LONGER play on my good stereo or on the car CD player.

Is it burning too fast ?

Someone said to "tweak" the burn speed. But I don't know how.

Any suggestions ? Quote

Someone said to "tweak" the burn speed.

Played back on the computer and on my cheap stereo

Hi all,

Every couple of weeks or so, my laptop (see specs below) emits a brief (3-5 seconds) high-pitched screeching sound. I have not noticed any other serious problems, save for somewhat slow performance but I believe this is probably a RAM issue. My laptop is a REFURBISHED REPLACEMENT system from Dell. I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts as to what might be the problem here and whether it needs to be dealt with ASAP. Thanks for your input!

system specs:
Dell Inspiron laptop 1420
OS: Windows Vista Business
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo CPU T7250 @ 2.00 GHz
RAM: 1014 MB
System type: 32-bit
Productivity software: Microsoft OFFICE Professional 2007
HD size = 61.9 GB with 29.3 GB of free space
Video Card = Generic PnP Monitor on Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family with adapter string Mobile Intel(R) GMA X300
Intel Video BIOS
Total available graphics memory: 251 MB
Dedicated video memory: 0 MB
System Video Memory: 128 MB
Shared System Memory: 123 MBMy immediate suspicion would be one of the cooling fans is getting ready to fail.

Just real quick-

I know OLD PCI cards can be used with PCIe connectors but the speed will be old PCI speed.

Can PCIe cards be used with PCI connectors? I doubt it.no they cannot.I should say a bit more.

The reason why is because the pci slot is too old of technology to recognize the pci-e card. However, the pci-e slot is newer technology, and is therefore ABLE to read the new and old technology (pci-e cards and pci cards). And to add to that.... as FAR as I know PCI-E is only compatible with PCI on the software level. You can't actually install a PCI card in a PCI-E slot.Quote from: Deerpark on January 30, 2008, 09:49:38 AM

And to add to that.... as far as I know PCI-E is only compatible with PCI on the software level. You can't actually install a PCI card in a PCI-E slot.

Quote from: Deerpark on January 30, 2008, 09:49:38 AM

And to add to that.... as far as I know PCI-E is only compatible with PCI on the software level. You can't actually install a PCI card in a PCI-E slot.

yes, I believe that's correct.

I have a very old CTX monitor. There's not even an idication on the model number. When I'm navigating PROGRAMS [ most NOTICEABLE when I'm surfing the internet ], instead of GOING down the page smoothly, the graphics move in what i can only call waves. is this a monitor problem?

Thanks,
joeDo you have another monitor you could try? It's difficult to make a determination without seeing it, but it could also be a VIDEO card or video driver issue. no i dont have another monitor to try, but ill look into the video driver. jeez i should have known that. im getting old. fixed. the driver for my ANCIENT card wasnt' installed correctly. it also allowed me to adjust the refresh which was out of whack.

Thanks eg
'preciate itGlad I could make myself useful!

I am currently running windows XP (original MSP). I have just PUT together a new machine. Biostar NF61S MOBO amd x2 4400 CPU ATI X700 video card(512Mb) with 1 GB of kingston DDR2 ram (667). problem is when I am running any program with movement IE Games /screensavers I have pixelated transparent blocks on the screen. Not sure if I need more RAM or it a bad card. most other applications WORK FINE including straight video... any thoughts ?
To determine if it may be the card swap the card into another machine and load the drivers and see...
You can do the same thing to check if it's the monitor.Unfortunately, I am unable to swap the card out, My old SYSTEM has a AGP card. However, the Monitor I am currently using is a Envision H1981 and is LESS than 6 months old. And this problem was not seen on My old system which was also a ATI card, so I don't believe the monitor to be bad

i just bought an optical mouse and it works WELL but on my desk it doesn't preform as well as it can because the desk is too slippery.

the mouse works well on any other surfaces i've TRIED but on my desk it sometimes does its own thing.
i know i can get a mouse mat but is there any other solution other than a mouse mat.
thanks.Sometimes, I use a CLEAN sheet of paper... The ordinary ones.. I think a mouse pad is your best bet. Denim works REALLY well if you want to make your own...
Recycle a PAIR of old Blue Jeans ! !

My girlfriend's desktop recently 'took a powder'. I think it's the typical power supply/motherboard ISSUE. Here's the spec. on it;

Emachines ModelT2792
WindowsGenuine Microsoft® Windows® XP Home
CPU: Intel® Celeron® 2.70GHz Processor
128KB L2 cache & 400MHz FSB
Chipset: Intel® 845GV chipset
Memory: 256MB DDR (PC 2100)
Hard DRIVE: 80GB HDD
Optical Drive: 48x MAX. CD-RW/DVD Combo Drive; 3.5" 1.44MB FDD
Video: Intel® Extreme Graphics 3D
64MB Shared memory
Sound: AC '97 Audio
Network: 10/100Mbps built-in Ethernet
Modem: 56K ITU v.92-ready Fax/Modem
Peripherals: Standard MULTIMEDIA Keyboard, 2-Button Wheel Mouse, Standard Stereo Speakers
Ports/Other: 6 USB 2.0 ports (2 on FRONT), 1 Serial, 1 Parallel, 2 PS/2, Audio-In & Out
Dimensions: 7.25"W x 14.125"H x 16"D

I already have a suitable 'better' power supply.


Our question is,,,should we go ahead and buy a direct intel 2003218 board, or has anyone found a better resolution?eMachines are notorious in some circles for cheap PSU's...you may want to swap the new one in there...that MBoard may be fine.Yes, we were made aware of the trouble being related to the cheap psu. And therefore purchased a better unit than that. Now the questions we have deal with the motherboard issue.You missed my point...the PSU may have caused the MBoard issues and that board may be fine.

I know this may seem LIKE a couple of the other posts on here but I read them and I don't think it is. I haven't had any trouble until I tried to load Windows office 2000 on my machine. The last thing I used my burner for was burning a video from the INTERNET which I aborted. I have since tried to read a couple of picture CD's that I had burnt on the player and it sees NOTHING after inserting them. My machine is only 2 years OLD. It will read a photo projects CD but will not even play a CD that I recorded with the player. I have cleaned the filters and also used a cleaning disc to no avail.
It's quite possible the drive has failed...they don't last as long as they used to.
You could swap it into another machine to confirm this...if it does the same thing the drive is dying.
New dual-layer DVD burners are about 40 BUCKS shipped @ newegg.I might have thought that but it still plays some cd's.

Two weeks ago or so, the floppy drive failed. It was continually seeking, making a seek NOISE, etc., and not recognizing a floppy disk when inserted (I know, I had to dig one up and dust it off because who uses them anymore anyway, right?).

SO... I figured, "who needs a floppy drive anyway?" And I had my son disconnect the power to the floppy drive. End of seeking problem - in a brute-force kind of way.

The DVD drive was working well at that point.

Anyway, my husband stuck in his new Casino Royale DVD the other day and told me it wouldn't read, and that it was "stuck". TURNS out the drawer isn't STUCK - you can pull it out no problem with your fingernails, but the system doesn't recognize the DVD at all. Seems exactly like the same problem as with the floppy drive - except we NEED the dvd drive.

The drive doesn't recognize ANY dvd's now. When I select Eject from My Computer, the light does not flash. When I press the eject button on the DVD drive, it flashes a number of times rapidly, but does not eject.

HELP!!! (please - and thank you)Sounds like he might have also unplugged the DVD drive or something- obviously the Drive isn't getting power- Does the light go on at ANY TIME? (boot up?). Double-check that the Power cable is plugged into the DVD drive.

The other only possibility is that the drive is fried, unlikely though, unless you tried to do a firmware upgrade...

If possible see if the DVD drive works in a separate computer.Thanks for your reply!

Quote from: Jay3fer on January 31, 2008, 02:11:29 PM

The drive doesn't recognize ANY dvd's now. When I select Eject from My Computer, the light does not flash. When I press the eject button on the DVD drive, it flashes a number of times rapidly, but does not eject.

I don't know very much about computers so plz bear with me. I know this is probably a REALLY dumb question, but can you print from a laptop?

I'm asking this because I don't have a parallel port on my laptop, but I have another port that is SMALLER. Or do new printers connect in a different way?

thanks. Sure, you can print from a laptop. Most new printers connect to a USB port. Some printers, like the Canon BJC-3000 I have, have both parallel and USB connectors.

If your printer can not use USB, I'm afraid you'll need to get a new printer. Do you have another computer you could connect a printer to and then network the computers and print to the printer connected to the other computer via the network? QUOTE from: soybean on February 16, 2008, 01:32:08 PM

Sure, you can print from a laptop. Most new printers connect to a USB port. Some printers, like the Canon BJC-3000 I have, have both parallel and USB connectors.

If your printer can not use USB, I'm afraid you'll need to get a new printer. Do you have another computer you could connect a printer to and then network the computers and print to the printer connected to the other computer via the network?

Hi, my new computer (with no native hard drives) does not recognize my SCSI hard drive. I would LIKE to install the drivers for the card, and I guess I can DOWNLOAD them from Tekram. But then what do I do? Put in the XP Cd, and press F6 (or whatever it is) to install 3rd party SCSI, and then put in a cd with the driver burnt on it?I would TRY just RUNNING the driver install in XP instead of USING the XP CD to boot from...

hi plz help i PUT NEW MEMORY in and it did not work so i put origanal memory back in now when i start COMPTER it just beeps all the time and nothing on screen i dont know whats wrongdisconnect power to your comp and pop out the CMOS battery. LEAVE it out for about 5-10 minutes, then re-insert it.

what is the RAM make/model?

what is your motherboards make/model?