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I previously had Vista x64 OS on this hard drive but it was running short on space so I installed the OS on my 1TB drive. I had backed up all files and intended to wipe this drive clean - then FORMAT it as a blank NTFS primary partition. When I try to format it I get a dialog box saying format failed. Disk management shows it as RAW instead of NTFS. Also it shows it as 139GB free, why not 150GB? It is a 150 GB WD velocirapter drive as listed in my specs. What am I doing wrong?

Screen shot of 'Disk Management:


Try completely deleting the current partition. Reboot. Then again create the partition and format again.

You could also try it with something like Easeus Partition Manager (http://www.partition-tool.com/). The home version is free.HDD size chart...



Courtesy of Western DigitalOo... sorry, I didn't answer the question about the capacity. Completely forgot. But there you go, if you look at the chart Patio has posted, you'll see that the capacity it's reporting is actually correct.Quote from: quaxo on June 12, 2009, 04:48:18 AM

Try completely deleting the current partition. Reboot. Then again create the partition and format again.

You could also try it with something like Easeus Partition Manager (http://www.partition-tool.com/). The home version is free.

Why did Windows disk management fail to format the drive without being run logged in as administrator?
Thanks to you and patio both. You guys are great!

Won't think about it too much as long as the problem is solved.

That is a bit strange. Perhaps your user account doesn't have admin privileges. But glad you at least got it working, somehow. Won't think about it too much as long as the problem is solved.

Sorry, my mistake before. I overlooked the part where you said 64-bit, as I know for a fact Easeus only supports 32-bit systems unless you get the professional version, which isn't free ($30 or so I think).

I have tried its latest version EASEUs Partition Master Home Edtiion 6.5.2, it works well on Windows 7 64 bit OS. Did you try its latest version?

hi, i'am working on a model PE1160-chassis FS7550/V7550. this an old crt based monitor that has given great service. at the moment it shows a small image both horiz and vert. i've been scouring the internet for a schematic and parts list, to no avail.there is a clue, R446 is burnt. can't find the trouble. does this ring a bell with anyone? any help would help. thanks. p.s. i've fixed a lot of tv's, not too many monitors.It is somewhat against my normal principal to try and discourage someone that wishes to restore/refurbish something to do otherwise. HOWEVER unless there is great nostalgia or an unquenchable desire to repair this CRT monitor i would wonder why you would want to do so. I have 3-4 CRT monitors i would gladly give away to anyone that wanted them to avoid them going to landfills. Many second hand stores also practically give them away. LCD monitors have come way down in price that even if you do have the expertise to repair the unit it will still cost you something and your time (unless either of the 2 previously stated situations exist) has to be worth something. I did do a search on the internet for the model you stated but the number of hits was extremely low (under 6) and they were all in non english languages. Sorry i wasn't of more assistance.truenorth hi truenorth, i understand what you are saying. however, let me say that i'am not that impressed with lcd monitors. i'am a retired field technician. i worked for all the major manufaturers. the idea of tossing a piece of electronic equipment is so against my nature that i feel i have to repair instead of replace. i know that sounds old fashioned, but there you have it. the idea that you repair is so ingrained in me. my time is no longer a factor(thank god), i still get a big kick out of repairing things. at 73 years of age, i guess i won't change ANYTIME soon. i do want to thank you for your response. regards pete g.Having a big advantage over me in advanced years (one year) and as a subscriber to the very same notion as can be readily demonstrated by my penchant for buying old items at garage sales (currently computers )with a view to restoration. I can absolutely relate to your position (hence my earlier stated reservation of my advice). If it turns out to be a vacuum tube issue sometime ago i remember reading that the Russians were actively trying to buy all the vacuum tubes that they could lay their hands on. So if that be so perhaps some searching within a Russian based search ENGINE might find them. Don't know to what extent CRT monitors use vacuum tubes though.I find that LCD displays are generally sharper and of course the units occupy far less space than CRT's and therefore allow more options for their placement. good luck,truenorththe only tube in a crt based monitor is the crt(pix tube). the monitor in question lasted 8 years before it required any kind of service. during that time it was on almost 24 hours a day. there is no lcd monitor now or probably ever that will give that kind of troublefree service. so, while they may be a little sharper and the current technology does not mean there better. however i think we're straying from the original purpose of this post. namely, what the *censored* is wrong with it? pgthe magneto-restriction coil and/or the flyback transformer that powers it has failed.I mean absolutely no disrespect with this post, Pete, and I certainly hope you take none. However, there are components inside CRT monitors that retain a charge even long after they've been unplugged. A charge strong enough to kill a person.

I always recommend that if someone really wants to save their CRT for whatever reason, that they take it to someone who is trained and qualified to do so. The fact that you're actually asking how to locate the problem or repair a CRT (or to try to find the problem) would lead me to believe that you aren't trained and qualified to repair one. I understand that you apparently know a lot about electronics, but if you aren't completely familiar with how to service a CRT monitor, please don't attempt to.

If you must repair the monitor, please find someone trained and qualified to diagnose and repair the monitor.i have repaired many crt based equipment and only once in 30 years was i ever shocked due to my own stupidity. inside almost all tv's and monitors there are bleeder circuits that discharge hi value CAPACITORS. there are only one or two scenarios when you can be seriously shocked. having said that, it is a good idea to discharge p/s caps. also you want to be careful when you disconnect the crt anode, its a good idea to discharge it. if you want to talk about getting killed you should look into servicing microwave ovens. not being careful with them will kill you. as far as asking for help on the forum two things come to mind one is i can't find a service manual and two i'am just being lazy. what will probably happen is i'll get into fixing the monitor and it will get fixed. by the way, i just finished repairing a 50 inch zenith plasma. Ok, fair enough. I always assume people don't know what they're doing when they poke around inside certain things, usually it's true. You seem well aware of the risks, so I won't bother you further.

I'm not trained or qualified to give you advice on how to fix it, so I'll *censored* out now.pete g, This will probably be my last kick at this can. Given that you desire a service manual or schematic for the monitor here is a link to one of those sites i referred to in my earlier post that supposedly is dealing with a person seeking the same thing for that crt model. I do see references to the model within the post . However if there is something within it that gives you what you are seeking i cannot tell. Maybe you can see something. It does seem to be a sight devoted to your type of issue (amongst adverts for many other non related stuff). Have a look and maybe it will lead to some assistance or an alternative place to post your question. truenorth
http://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.dtforum.net/index.php%3Ftopic%3D107780.msg1010925198%3Btopicseen&ei=SXPmTf3mF5SRgQfXjK2iCw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CEkQ7gEwBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dcompaq%2BPE1160-chassis%2BFS7550/V7550.%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dopera%26rls%3Den%26channel%3Dsuggest%26biw%3D1246%26bih%3D842%26prmd%3Divns
This is the link to the "translated" page that is in another language. truenorthIn TVs since about 1950 and all CRT monitors, the EHT to a CRT anode is derived from a flyback transformer and is rarely if ever lethal; the current capability is measured in microamps. I have had a couple of 25 kV "belts" from colour TVs back in the day. Very nasty, and never to be forgotten. On the other hand, the 2 kV anode supply in a microwave oven is derived from the AC mains and the current capability is appropriate for the power RATING of the oven, so that a 1,000 Watt oven will have a supply capable of delivering half an amp without even getting into a sweat. This is, of course potentially lethal. Also microwave ovens have an HT reservoir capacitor which can hold a charge for months and which can also kill.
If both vertical and horizontal scan amplitude is reduced, I think I would probably start looking around the power supply.
trunorth thanks for your efforts. salmon trout right on, could be low bplus. when i solve this i'll post. that is, if anyones interested. bye from s.florida.

our HP w17e monitor turns off and on by itself. when it comes back on it displays first one message box and then another. the first one says hp energy star information, and the second one says hp attention OSD LOCKED. the only THING we can do to control it is to hold down the buttons on the FRONT of the monitor, which is of course unpractical.
We WOULD very much appreciate any advise anyone could give.Can you TRY another monitor on that computer, or can you try that monitor on another computer?

If you can get into control panel turn all the power saving settings off and see if that makes a difference.

Quote from: Salmon Trout on November 14, 2010, 05:34:52 AM

Could be a "damage issue". 2 yr OLDS and computer equipment, in my own personal experience, do not mix! My sister's FLOPPY drive stopped working (for ever) because her 2.5 yr old had pushed 4 playing cards into it.

I appreciate your help, but not the rolling eyes, cheers.

I think the rolling eyes (from another poster) were meant to signify "now he tells us!" (after 2 pages)

I have several motherboards, generally 1.5 to 2.5 Gz, all of them, when connected up to hardware (hdd,cd-rw, A drive, and suitable power supply, the board fires up all fans, HDD sounds like it's booting, CD-RW light comes on, single beep, then monitor reads "monitor in power saving mode, control from computer"..I've tried changing video card, monitor, memory sticks, I assume I can control power save from keyboard, but I can't see it to do it..PLEASE HELPTry booting to safemode to make the neccessary changes...Hey thanks for the reply, but the monitor isn't coming on at all, when I push any button on it, it says to activate using pc..This has got me stumped, but I'm NOT giving up!Monitors generally show the "I am in power saving mode" message when there is no video signal. If the monitor works with a known good computer, the most likely explanation is that you have a bunch of dead hardware. I don't see any mention of CPUs in the list of hardware being tried.

Quote

I have several motherboards

I don't see any mention of CPUs

Someone told me it's a glitch with pentium 4 boards

When you raid hard drives together you do have to format them after joining them dont you?You have to set up the raid array, then partition it, then format the partition(s)

How to Set Up a RAID Array

http://www.pctechguide.com/tutorials/RAID.htmThanks. Got any suggestions for backing up 437Gb of info (yes that's just My Documents, and subfolders (PICS, music,etc))?Quote from: Accessless on November 14, 2010, 06:49:23 AM

Thanks. Got any suggestions for backing up 437Gb of info (yes that's just My Documents, and subfolders (pics, music,etc))?

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On PROMOTION until 24/12/2010

Comp Specs- Jetway HA06 mobo
AMD Phenom x4 9850 black edition (don't overclock)
Stock HEATSINK/CPU fan.
G. Skill RAM (only have one 1GB stick in there now, for trial and error)
Windows Home Edition SP3
Radeon HD 4670 Graphics Card.
4 inch fan in back to take hot air out.

I cleaned my computer last night, because it was running hot (about 50C, usually about 42C), so I took the heatsink off, rinsed it out completely with water, let it dry while I dusted everything else. Reapplied thermal GOO. Put heatsink back on, along with all other COMPONENTS. Then started computer. It started FINE, heard the POST 'beep' after it finished, then windows started. Being interested about tracking my temp, I started up speedfan, and it said my temp was 60C on processor, 55C in cores. So, I open back up my computer and my CPU fan isn't spinning (all other fans are though). I shut my computer off (holding power button) and let it cool down. Then, I plugged it into the wall on my workbench, played with the CPU fan a little, and it started working again. However, my motherboard will not pass POST now, nor display any LED lights showing it entering POST. I've checked for shorts, cleaned and reapplied thermal goo about 5 times, and still nothing. I just want a second opinion, but does that sound like a motherboard being fried?

EDIT- My motherboard will display the blue light, showing it is getting power, and switches red as always when it starts.

(This is the GT picture, just using it because it's bigger than the picture for what I have.)
http://www.jetway.com.tw/pic/big/HA06-gt.jpg
If you look in the bottom left, you see a horse looking thing, that lights up blue when getting power and when turned on, switches red. Right beside it is the spot where hex codes are displayed through POST.It might have come from one fan that you mention is not spinning and otherwise if core temps, processors are too high then thermal sensors would shut the computer down. Have you tried cross-referencing other Hardware monitor for the CPU temps? You may need to replace or add another fan for your cooling system. Make sure you apply the right amount of grease for the heatsink... You must not ALSO clean/soak heatsink with water. Is the computer able to boot(then hangs?) or shutsdown?Comps temperature wasn't high according to friend with same processor, he even runs aftermarket.
Computer won't even pass POST, so I can't get any info. Hardware isn't working right somewhere.

On my Eris, laptop decided to start BSODing after I booted it and let it update. Hope what I said makes sense.Quote

Computer won't even pass POST

Will run through without CPU after posting, and will edit if it works.

It makes my hands dirty, and I'm on a touch screen phone.

Either way, it didn't work.

Hey All,

I have a HP Compaq 6710b. Now this laptop used to work however now it does not turn on at all, no lights, no sound, DEAD. The battery has been removed ETC. New power cable and been replaced, new hdd, new ram, still nothing. The laptop used to work, untill one day it just didn't want to COME on. Any suggestions would be really appreciated !

Cheers,
HelperHow long was it working from the time it suddenly stop working?
The things I could start first to check if it will create power is :
1. Replace CMOS battery. DIRECT connecting from AC PLUG then power on.
2. Use one RAM module to test on powering up then alternately on slot. If nothing changes, then try booting up without any RAM to see if it powers up and beeps.
3. You could also remove the network card next .
4. Check also your CPU fan for it may be defective.
5. Check for any burn or bumps for other internal components.Hi! Thanks for replying!

I would like to mention that i have replaced the CMOS, still no luck and i have taken out the Ram and done that, still nothing, number 3, network card is removed, 4. Not sure about the fan, but was cloged up with nicotine, and 5 no burns visible etc.

Cheers,
Helper.Hey!

Yes I have checked everything.. Everything looks neat and tidy, but I am having a funny feeling that it is the motherboard :/ ... Any thing i can do before i get a new motherboard?Quote from: Helper4789 on June 01, 2011, 04:34:10 AM

Hi! Thanks for replying!

I would like to mention that i have replaced the CMOS, still no luck and i have taken out the Ram and done that, still nothing, number 3, network card is removed, 4. Not sure about the fan, but was cloged up with nicotine, and 5 no burns visible etc.

Cheers,
Helper.

How did you remove the network card from a laptop? It's not a removable component usually.
3. You could also remove the network card next

Hi to all of you, I am new here and I need help to fix my computer. I have 2 COMPUTERS computer No 1 is HP E6400 OS Vista this one works fine. Now computer No2 is an ASUS motherboard P5LD2 with 3GHZ Dual core CPU and 4 gb of ram video card Radeon X1600 540mb, Hard drive WD 250Gb Computer No 2 has the following problem I formatted my hard drive to start a new installation. So I inserted my WINDOW 7 installation Disk into my DVD drive. The installation starts and I can see window 7 files are loading but then it stops and shuts down This is what I did
I removed my memory sticks and INSTALLED them to my computer No 1 Vista and run test memory No problem with memory I did the same with my Hard drive passed the same with my video Card passed the same with my DVD passed all my hard ware from computer No 2 passed the test Now I installed my hard drive to computer No 1 Vista and I installed windows 7 on my hard drive worked fine so I removed this drive and installed it to my computer No2 it works fine The only problem is when I want to INSTALL New programs it does not allow me the computer starts installation and then shuts down I installed a blank DVD to see if it will shut down but it did not Now I think that my motherboard Asus I not working right Or it could be my CPU? Can some one tell me what I have to do to repair this problem. I thank you all.
Try swapping or using another DVD ROM/RW drive. If mobo CAME with an onboard video card, try formatting without the added video card. Re check also for any power option settings under BIOS. Or try using the same or higher Power supply for your Asus mobo. Jason you are right man i would like to thank you a million time, i changed my power supply and it works just fine thank you all for helping me Thanks for posting back and sharing us the solution.

I bought a new computer recently with a Compucase 6C28B case. I want to install a 5.25" DVD burner from the old computer, but I have run into a small PROBLEM. The metal cover that exists in each unoccupied drive slot is held on by some screws that are unfamiliar to me. They are very small and have a tiny, circular-looking drive. The "documentation" that came with the case gives no specifications of the screws. Bottom line is I NEED help removing those screws.

THANKS in advance,

RyanAccording to a site (to be INCLUDED) that offers your case for sale it says the following re your issue "OPTIONAL Tool-free or one-side-screwed design for 5.25" and 3.5" devices".
This is the site i have just referenced. http://www.bestdirect.ca/products/114581/6C28B/Compucase/
If this does not help i would recommend calling the place of purchase or the manufacturer of the case for their input on your problem. truenorthGood call. Thanks for the reply.

I just purchased a Internal All in One Card Reader.I see where to connect it to my motherboard with the USB connector.I have 2 open SATA ports on my motherboard and 1 SATA cable and 1 eSATA cable coming from the back of the card reader.I know the 1 SATA cable will connect to one of the open SATA ports,does the other eSATA cable connect to the other SATA port? Not being familiar with your device i did some research and came across this link. If this is similar (hopefully the same) then the article describing it's INSTALLMENT will hopefully assist you with how it gets connected. Best of luck,
http://www.espow.com/wholesale-3-5-inch-all-in-one-internal-card-reader-with-usb-esata-and-sata.html
truenorthYep that is almost the same card reader.close enough anyhow. Do I connect both red cables to my motherboard?Does your card reader have 1 SATA & 1 eSATA port on the front panel? If it does, the SATA cable is for the SATA port, the eSATA cable is for the eSATA port. You do understand that neither provide power to the SATA device? eSATA cable provides signal shielding for the external SATA.

BTW, some motherboard do not support eSATA on the SATA connectors, i.e., the computer won't recognize the hot swap.Further to CC's comments. If you have read the article i provided it appears that the word "or" is USED when it comes to some connections. That could be the case re your SATA and Esata cables. Read it again and see if you don't CONCUR. truenorthOK,I got it figured out now.Except for the eSATA.and I don`t know if my motherboard supports it or not. I`ll have to dig a little deeper.If not, is there some type of card that I can insert into the PCI slot to connect it?I may stand to be corrected but i don't think you will gain any practical advantage by seeking out a separate card to allow your ESATA cable connection. I suspect that both cables are provided on the device to allow for the possibility of only ONE of them being compatible with any given computer MOBO. So if you only had a sata you can connect or if you only have an ESATA you can also connect. If you do NOT have ESATA i don't believe you will lose any functionality of your card card reader. truenorthQuote from: Pinestump on JANUARY 19, 2011, 04:30:12 AM

OK,I got it figured out now.Except for the eSATA.and I don`t know if my motherboard supports it or not. I`ll have to dig a little deeper.If not, is there some type of card that I can insert into the PCI slot to connect it?

Hi, I'm wondering if someone could answer a QUESTION about 2 different video/graphic cards for me, I know NOTHING about them, currently on my Windows XP Pro I have an GeForce2 MX 400 (link about the specs here- http://www.nvidia.com/page/geforce2mx.html
and a game I want to run suggests I use a NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT, ( link to specs- http://www.nvidia.com/object/product_geforce_8800_gt_us.html ) my question is would my card work for the game? I cannot tell the difference between the two cards, what ONE is better or if the one I'm using is not nearly as good, I'm getting more RAM today so I need to know if I need an upgraded graphics card as well....
Thanx!what u should look at is the requirements of the game, second the 8800 is a lot better than ur current card after seeing the specs i would say about x4 maybe. what i would suggest is an upgrade just make sure ur mobo is compatible with the NEW card. i am going to go ahead and correct my mistake if the game is recommending this card (8800) to u it is because ur current vc ( after further analysis) shows a great lack of ...well everything in comparison to the 8800. my estimation of it being 4x better was off by about 10.. (14x) maybe not really good at math XD but this much i know is that ur current video card will prob. not be able to tackle on ur game head on, u will be looking at game shut downs throught various action parts or shootings or watever game it might be. another thing is it might also heat ur card up a whole lot quicker which can cause serious damage to it after a while, not saying go ahead and run it, just saying it would be smart to take some precautions. Thanx peacemaker, that helps.... If it's asking for a 8800 minimum, and you've got a MX 400, I promise it won't run.

Also, it makes me wonder what the rest of your HARDWARE is like. If you've only got a MX 400, which is years old, there's probably more that won't handle whatever you're trying to play.

What's the game and what are your FULL specs?Actually I had a friend come over today, and after looking at my computer he said the card wouldn't even fit into my motherboard, as its too old, so it looks like I need a newer computer, the games I wanted to play were Bionic Commando Reloaded, and World Of Subways Moscow....

My laptop is an IBM T42 with Window XP.
I use on my ship a navigation-programm on this laptop, inside in the cabin.
I wish for the cockpit a second MONITOR, where i see the same display as on the MAINBOARD, so that I can WORK together with a keyboard also outside, in the Cockpit.
My laptop works on 12 Volt, and so needs also the second monitor to work. Where can I get this kind of second monitor?

Thanks for an answer.

ErwinGoogle "12 volt dc monitor" and take your pick, there are quite a few for sale from many sources.Thank you for the reply, it seems now, i will find the right thing in the section "monitors for cars", because the size should not be bigger den 12".

after the windows start after 5-10 seconds all icon taskbar are gone..SORI im not good in english...any COMMENT??
What is new or different since the last time everything worked PROPERLY (IE, new hw, new sw, virus, ERROR, etc)?

I run a active Pro Tools sound card in my studio-computer.This very much improves my performance,it takes the load off my cpu.But I run a semi pro studio,and if you are not into that I (And I say I) would not buy a sound-card to make my computer run faster and spend the money some place else.Well there are enough smart answers from people who know a lot more about computers than I do.But when you WANT to start up a "soft-studio" give me a "ring".To you all,have a very nice day and greetings from Amsterdam Quote from: Eric1611 on August 16, 2010, 07:05:54 AM

I run a active Pro Tools sound card in my studio-computer.This very much improves my performance,it takes the load off my cpu.But I run a semi pro studio,and if you are not into that I (And I say I) would not buy a sound-card to make my computer run faster and spend the money some place else.Well there are enough smart answers from people who know a lot more about computers than I do.But when you want to start up a "soft-studio" give me a "ring".To you all,have a very nice day and greetings from Amsterdam

You never really stated what you are looking to improve. On board sound is usually OK for stereo. You are overclocking so I'm guessing you are a gamer.

Currently, I've got a fairly cheap set of speakers, and they are OK for some things but music doesn't sound very good on them, so I use a good set of head phones when I listen to music.

Personally, I'd buy a good set of head phones before I would buy a new sound card.

My computer keeps freezing when i get to the home PAGE, and i have to restart it but it still doesn't work. The only WAY it doesn't freeze is if i go on safe mode, which is what I'm doing now. I can't stay on it because it is DRIVING me crazy, i cant use sound, webcam, or programs I want. Can someone please help me? Quote

My computer keeps freezing when i get to the home page

Could it be that my CPU might be wearing out

Gears...not wheels.

Hello, good morning.

Can someone EXPLAIN to me about the "core" and "thread" in the processor.

Questions:
1. What is core?
2. What is thread?
3. What's the difference between core and thread?
4. what does it do?

Thanks and God bless. 1. A CPU has one or more physical cores. Each one is a SEPARATE processor.
2. Threading is a way of dividing a program to RUN on more than one core. Each thread runs on one core.
3. A core is a physical thing but a thread is an ABSTRACT idea.
4. It? Which "it"?

Have an hp PSC 950 all in one printer that only makes blank sheets when copying. It prints OK, not sure about faxes. Why would copies TURN out blank? Something I can fix or is it shot? Couldn't REALLY find this problem in any of the troubleshooting.When you are using the scanner to "COPY" can you see a "preview" of the object being scanned? truenorthSorry for the DELAY. Yes, you can see the preview.Did you try reinstalling your DRIVERS for the printer?

Is there a way to bypass the system administrator? For some reason my laptop is stuck at a white screen that ASKS me to enter a system password. But when I do, it keeps saying password not accepted. I have tried to get into the system setup and boot options menu by pressing F2 and F12 but to no avail. I am not sure if maybe the keyboard is stuck or not responding (pressing WRONG keys?) because I cannot see what password is being typed, (it does not show what is being typed) I have tried to contact Dell support but no help is forthcoming. Can anyone help? I really need my laptop for school
Forgive a silly question, but have you tried a different keyaboard?

Also, what is new or different since the last TIME everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?This computer is a laptop. A Dell Inspiron to be exact. Everything worked fine up until a few days ago. When I turned it on, it booted to a white screen that asked for a password. But when I enter my password, it says worng password and to try again. The F2 and F12 BUTTONS do not worked. Right now I cant get pass this system screen. Cant get to through safe mode, cant get into boot menu, cant get anywhere. I cant even see what password is being enter, as it does not show what is being typed.Hi, Iverdoot,
You didn't indicate which model Inspiron you use. If it is new, Dell is your best resource. I use an Inspiron 8100 (old & slow). Is the green power light blinking? Low/bad battery or bad A/C adapter can cause a variety of symptoms, including blank screen. Does the computer beep one or several TIMES when you turn it on? My manual says "contact Dell" if this happens.

I rescued my laptop from a coffee spill. Any chance someone spilled liquid on yours?

blithe spiritsHi

The suggestion of different keyboard is a good one. Do you have a spare USB keyboard that you can plug in to the USB port. Also check you don't have numlock on which on some models enables the numeric keyboard shared with U I O P area of the keyboard.

I don't know if this is the best PLACE to post this but I will give it a shot

Background: Girlfriend's pc she uses for work crapped out won't turn on. She has been wanting a new one for a while anyway so we said lets build one. Go to fry's electronics and purchase most of our content (scrapped a couple THINGS from last pc like cables/mouse etc) get HOME spend a few hours piecing it together and can't manage to work out the issue.

Issue represents itself like this. It will POWER on and it just doesn't seem to post. I have rechecked most connections (all the important ones) but I don't seem to get a post at all. I don't know if it has anything to do with liquid cooling the way it SOUNDS (not bad just obviously different from fan cooled) but thats probably neither here nor there.

Specs:
-870A-G54 MSI- mother board
-Radeon HD 5830- graphics card
-AMD Phenom II Black Edition- processor
-600 Watt power supply
-Sata 80 GB hard drive (I am using it for testing also have tried a cpl others)
-DDR3 1600G Dual Channel 4GB Ram (2 sticks 2 gig each)

Please provide suggestions or if you know what the problem is most likely all help is appreciated Are you using liquid cooling?yes i amAre all of the motherboard standoffs in place? Did you apply thermal grease to the cpu?

Dear users
Suppose i have 500 WEBSITES and i want to creat user name for those websites is there is any software so that i can add websites on it and generate user names and logins for all websites in one TASK So, you have created 500 websites?

Why did you post this in the HARDWARE section?Quote from: soybean on JANUARY 19, 2011, 02:25:29 PM

So, you have created 500 websites?

Why did you post this in the Hardware section?

Is this processor compatible with following motherboard?

*AMD Phenom II X4 955BE Rev. C3, AM2+/AM3, 3.2GHz, 8MB, BOX

*Asus M5A87, AM3+, AMD 870, DDR3, Core Unlockerhttp://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131734

go to details and in socket type it should tell u. i would tell u yes or no..but i dint get a glance at ur processor. correcting my mistake after further analysis if i am looking at the right mobo. yes it should be ABLE to support ur proccessor.The fact that motherboard has AM3+ and processor is AM3 (without +)is what made unsure.let me check further on that give me a few minutes ill respond back to SEE if there would be a problem with the mobo and ur socket on the processor
after more analysis the fact that your mobo. is am3+ means its supports new processors along with the old ONES, in simple terms your processor is still supported by ur mobo.Thanks for confirmation.Quote from: Madoc Comadrin on May 31, 2011, 02:35:12 PM

The fact that motherboard has AM3+ and processor is AM3 (without +)is what made unsure.

When I turn on my computer, it acts like it is going to fire up, then stops, then starts again and just continues to start and stop. Quote

When I turn on my computer, it acts like it is going to fire up, then stops, then starts again and just continues to start and stop.

Again... Your being concise, please give us a clearer picture.

I recently got a new monitor (HANNS G) and it works perfectly except for it gets weird lines across the SCREEN. The lines seem to be BRIGHTNESS DIFFERENCES as the image stays perfectly the same. The lines hurt my eyes and make it hard to use. Is this an issue with the monitor? Should I return in? Or is it a video card or RAM error?Wondering if the issue your seeing is a clock-pitch or phasing offset. Look in your menu on the display to see if it has a Clock Pitch or Phase option to configure. This can create a sense of lighter and darker shaded columns that BOTHER the eyes. Usually displays autodetect and synch correct, but sometimes you have to ADJUST. This website has more info on this: http://www.techmind.org/lcd/phasexplan.htmlThank you so much that fixed it!

I WANT to watch 3D films on my pc, so obviously I'll need a 3D monitor and special glasses. Also I'll need a BLURAY player but will any bluray player do, or do I need a special 3D one?

Also do I need a 3D video card too, something LIKE this Geforce GTX470 maybe?If you're talking about the older 3D system with red and blue glasses, then all you will need is a video card capable of playing a DVD or bluray and the red/blue glasses. There is a NEW way of doing 3D that I am not very familiar with, but I know you will need extra equipment to do that.

My main concern at this POINT (seriously last minute before ASSEMBLY) was the video CARD and sound card, i GOT a last minute xfx 6770 amd video card i saw the hdmi connector on it and i assumed it would take care of the sound, after thinking about it and doubting myself so much i am fearing that my BOSE companion 5 sound system wont be able to throw the minimum sound i want (5.1) my question is can the card take care of the sound or is a sound card necessary for this? Also i will be more than happy to get suggestions in a sound card my mobo is a ASUS X58 sabertooth.

I am using windows vista and I've NEVER had this problem before. My USB wireless mouse has worked perfectly for the past year. Suddenly, today, I discovered my mouse doesn't work anymore and it says:

USB Device Not Recognized--unknown device.

I thought, maybe my mouse is broken. So I plugged my mouse into another LAPTOP (with vista) and it works! So my mouse isn't broken...I ALSO plugged in a new mouse into my computer and the same error message comes up. This is STRANGE...it sounds like SOMETHING's wrong with my computer? What can I do?

I already tried rebooting it but that didn't solve the problem.
I got it fixed! I read somewhere about removing the battery, power, and holding down the power button for 30 sec.

Found new hardware window won't GO AWAY, nothing new has been added when this started, is there away to KNOW what it is refering to?
[emailprotected]
Where is this window exactly?

What happens if you right click on it?

What OS system are you using?

Hello.
I have been looking into WAYS of either streaming or playing downloaded content from my PC to my HDTV, and being able to play NetFlix movies.
From what I understand, I need a Wii, Playstation 3, X-BOX or some other "box" to play the netflix. I am wondering though, how I would be able to get the content from my PC to the tv.
I have some what looked into a "Boxee Box".
Any suggestions? Would this work?

Thanks.
BrianIf you have XP with Windows Media center then I would recommend the Xbox 360. It also has the Media center built in and they work seemlessly together.I guess I should have mentioned that. I will be running Windows 7.Simplest soln.
Get a DVI to HDMI cable and then just hook it up like you would a monitor. (ebay (couple of quid))

Very effecive. Then get a wireless mini keyboard and trackpad.

Then your sorted...If you want to connect your PC to your TV you need to give us more info on what kind of computer you have. What kind of video out connections are on your comp? RGB, DVI, S-Video, etc....
I'll get used to giving all the information in ORDER to get a good answer one day
I am not exactly sure, but I believe it is the HP Pavilion Phenom P6540f
It is STILL in the box, BURIED in the spare room, and unfortunately will be until we move next week

Can anyone help please. I am trying to source a replacement light tube for my otherwise very healthy
EPSON PERFECTION 1650 PHOTO SCANNER.
The tube is for the top lid which scans the slides.
Any help much appreciated

DerekMay we assume you've already contacted Epson?Yes, not very helpful.
Referred me to a LOCAL service centre. They didn't want to know!Unfortunately, scanners are disposable devices. The replacement tubes would COST more than a new scanner.
I entered your INFO in here: http://www.partstore.com/
Nothing was listed.Thank you.
I hate this throw away world of ours!
I'm not just tight, but it seems so wrong!!!It is...Some cities have recycling centers where they take electronics apart and try to recycle as much as they can.

My wife would like a laptop so she doesn't have to sit at the desktop to surf. Have hald-held devices made laptops obsolete? What would be a good choice? Who makes the best ones these days? Thanks.if just for surfing then a TABLET device may be the way to GO...
Quite cheap, and the portability is great for them... Not great for much else... Laptops are by no way near obsolete yet they are just overkill for most people uses. Any laptop should do and if it is just for surfing I would just look out for something with about a GB of RAM, built in wifi, quite small and reasonable battery life (8ish hours)My HP laptop is going on 6 years OLD and have never had a problem with it. It is the main computer in the house, and has done very well for me.
I bought my wife a net book at Costco, and it works just fine for her and her internet surfing.
Good luck with your purchase. Artbuc,

For use to give you some reasonable recommendations we will need a little bit more info.

1. What all other then "surfing" would your wife like to do with the laptop?
2. Is size important? Would a 10" netbook work or does she prefer a 17" screen?
3. Will it need wireless or will she still use a cable to connect to the net? This may seem like a silly question but I know plenty of people that use laptops and never use the wireless function on it.
4. What price range are you looking at?
5. Where are you from? Don't need exact address on this but we have members from all over the world so it would do no good to get suggested a laptop in the U.K. if you live in the U.S.

is there a way to running 3 computers with one external dvd, maybe a usb splitter? One at a TIME of courseYou could access one drive on a network in a variety of methods. Some routers have a special port for sharing an external drive or a printer. Or you could leave the external drive connected to one machine and simply network the other two computers.If you mean you want to boot to 3 different computers from one HD then the answer is no, unless all three systems are 100% identical. If you simply want 3 computers to recognize the files on the external drive then you can indeed use 3 usb connections or create a network.Plus in addition to Allan's statement above modern windows operating systems will not be permitted to be installed on an external hard drive. Perhaps a Linux version might but i really don't know. truenorthYou know what, I misread the post. I thought the question was about an external HD not a DVD. But yes, it can be connected to all three computers.Yes now that i reread the initial post and see Allan's last response i too seem to have misread the original post's intent. Of course you can use "one external" optical device to service 3 computers". You will need to find some kind of switch (probably mechanical) that will allow you to switch between the 3 computers to a common usb connection to the DVD unit. I have searched on your behalf for such a device and not found any so far. But i have to believe they must exist. truenorthHere is an easy way.
Network the PCs however you want.
Then enable simple file sharing if not already: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/304040
Then right click the CD/DVD drive you want to share -> Properties -> Sharing -> Enter the info -> Press OK
Go to the other computer, open explorer, and TYPE \\[name of computer]
You should be able to access the drive from there. If you want this to be more permanant, then you can just create a network drive of that share.

I don't mean to sound too simple. Sorry if you already know this.I too have been looking for some sort of splitter. I have six different gamiing computers downstairs and am running them on a x3 46 inch plasma tv that is in my living room with eye infinity ( 3x visiontek 5850) . I have a 100 foot usb with a booster and would like to have an external dvd upstairs that can access all six computers without having to switch the usb cable everytime I use a different computer. I know they have dvd servers but so expensive! I'll try the network thing. Thanks.Quote from: Quantos on January 18, 2011, 03:43:27 AM

You could access one drive on a network in a variety of methods. Some routers have a special port for sharing an external drive or a printer. Or you could leave the external drive connected to one machine and simply network the other two computers.

So you simply plug in the DVD into the port and poof! all computers can see it? Do you know odf such a device?

Yes, I do indeed know of one, I have one.
This is the DIR-655 Xtreme N Gigabit Router.

My computer that I built about five years ago is probably on it's last legs, and deserves to be retired. I don't think I'll build one this time. I've had GOOD luck with a Dell laptop I got a few years ago, so I'm THINKING of going Dell. My question is, should I go Intel or AMD? I've always paid the premium for Intel in the past, but is it still worth it? I use the computer for trade show booth display design, and the graphics files can get pretty big and require a lot of processing power. My current computer kind of bogs down on the big files.
So anyway, do people recommend Intel or AMD these days for graphics processing? I'm on a bit of a budget, looking at "MIDLEVEL" stuff.
Also while I'm asking, Dell has a Windows 7 option that includes a "windows XP mode", but it's an extra $50. I think it use to be free. I was thinking of paying the extra $50 for the "xp mode", but I read some reviews that IMPLIED it isn't that good. Maybe this should be a separate post, but what do you think of having an "xp mode" on Windows 7 if it costs an extra $50.
Thanks!3 questions:

1) Are you talking about another laptop purchase here ? ?

2) What exactly are your video requirements ? ?

3) What is the budget ? ?

NOTE: XP Mode is Free...do NOT pay for it

Anyway, I ordered a GTS 250 which is coming SOON.
I need a NEW PSU to replace my 300W Cooler Master, and I only have a $65 debit card to use for it. I
have looked at a few, but I haven't decided yet. I've just looked into this Xigmatek Power Supply .
Am I on the right track? Will I be disappointed? Which PSU do you guys THINK would be best for me?


Which GT 250? The is one that can hit 235 watts. REAL watts.Not maybe watts. Make sure you PSU is big enough for the card and every thing else.

Hi to every one

I have two internet connections.
one is bsnl evdo and another one is wi-fi

i have LAPTOP dell
can I combine these two internet connection for increase the downloading speed.
Is it possible?

If any one know this please TELL me
Thanks in advance.
No you can't do that.

You can have 2 connections but you can't put them together to download a file faster.
Quote from: Spoiler on October 29, 2010, 01:08:31 PM

No you can't do that.

You can have 2 connections but you can't put them together to download a file faster.

Happy new year to all. Over the next month or two I am going to upgrade my system. I will buy in order.

1. Ram
2. Case*
3. PSU*
4. Video Cards*(Yes I am going to two video cards. I like having a JOB )
* Might buy at the same TIME depending on S/H.

And finally the purpose of this post. I have all of the parts PICKED out except the case. I would like suggestions for cases.

Currently have Antek 900 and love it but feel like it is time for an upgrade.
Mid to FULL tower.
Lots of fans or places to put fans. With a good place for my CORSAIR H50 radiator.
Like side window.

Let me know if you need any more info.
Thanks for the help.I'd recommend the RaidMax Smilodon...Interesting. How is it for cable management?

Edit: Just realized that there is no place for my H50 radiator. It requires a 120mm fan port and that only has an 80mm. Nice looking case though.

After installing CCCP codecs pack, I have noticed the audio and video are out of sync when trying to watch Youtube vids etc...

Before installing CCCP, I had XP codec pack and everything seemed to be working fine. I uninstalled CCCP yet the PROBLEM still persists.


Can ANYONE HELP me correct this?
Any help is greatly appreciated.



ps
Running XP SP3Quote from: Rezinus on January 16, 2011, 09:09:56 PM

After installing CCCP codecs pack, I have noticed the audio and video are out of sync when trying to watch Youtube vids etc...

Before installing CCCP, I had XP codec pack and everything seemed to be working fine. I uninstalled CCCP yet the problem still persists.


Can anyone help me correct this?
Any help is greatly appreciated.



ps
Running XP SP3

Hello

I have a HP dv 1659 laptop. I was looking to replace my CURRENT DRIVE with Seagate Momentus 7200.4 ST9500420AS Mobile Hard Drive - 500GB, 2.5", 7200RPM, 16MB, SATA-300, OEM(0.002 lbs) (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4434267&sku=TMD-500AS2).

Does anyone know if there are any compatibility issues? I believe the current drive is a SATA1, not sure if the new drive would be backward compatible???

Device manager informs me the current drive is Fujitsu MHV2100BH (spec http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822116018)

I also remember hearing issues with large partitions support e.g computer wont recognize the drive if it's over a certain size.

I am running windows XP sp3.

Also looking to get a Seagate Go Flex 1tb portable drive.

It has been too long since i tinkered with computers

Thanks in advance!!!

SQuote

It has been too long since i tinkered with computers

If you somehow need a lot more performance and storage, you should not be using a laptop anyway.

Hi stastik, just curious as to the reason behind the HDD replacement?

There will be zero issues replacing the drive you have with the drive you selected...

...1. As for the connector, like I mentioned, I do not have a desktop ATM. I was thinking of backing up all the stuff from my current drive (like actual data) onto an external disk, replacing the drive, then doing a fresh reinstall. What I could do is use my 3.5" external enclosure for that.
2. Optimally I would get a 1TB laptop drive for all my needs and another 1TB drive to serve as backup, but I could not find a 1tb Seagate. For some reason the only drives that I have that ever failed are from western digital, so I do not trust them.
Thoughts?

They make the same connector for SATA laptop drives as well...
That just happens to be a Pic of the old style...Nice catch CC...
As far as installing Windows onto an external HDD then putting the drive in the laptop you may find out the hard way that the machine will not boot up...

Having a minor issue with a hard drive I own. I have 4 hard drives

x2 Hitachi Deskstar 500gb Sata hdds
1 Samsung 640gb Sata hdd
1 Western Digital 320gb Sata hdd

Now the issue,

On a cold boot, all but the WD hdd will boot up and be recognized by Windows. The WD hdd wont even show as connected hardware in the device mgr let alone be shown in the devices under My Computer. BUT, upon a restart, the hard drive is shown once Windows BOOTS back up on a warm boot, accessible and all. Dont understand it and dont think the WD hdd is going bad. Maybe a hardware expert can shed some light on this scenario.

Thanks The symptoms you describe indicate BIOS is not recognizing WD drive. See if BIOS recognizes WD hard drive.I checked my BIOS and verified all 4 hard drives within my BIOS in their sata configurations, WHETHER they be master/slave and which sata channel they were on. As I previously mentioned, the hard drive will boot up on a cold boot but wont show in Windows. During POST I watch my computer display the hard drives/optical drive that are verified and connected and all show up but when it comes to Windows time to load up, the hard drive isnt there to access BUT after a restart shortly after that, the hard drive shows up. And even more WIERD, I started up this morning on a cold boot and checked and it showed up on a cold boot. Why is the problem scattered about? I dont understand at all, lol. Why is this thing behaving so erratically?Next time it does NOT appear in Windows, take a look in Disk Management and see if it's there.Try checking your SATA cable for the TROUBLED HD. Swap to check if the issue is persistent.

http://www.ehow.com/about_5679067_sata-cable-problems.html




I smell an immenent HDD failure...but i could be wrong.I agree with jason, try swapping the cables.

Also you can burn a program called drive fitness test to an ISO cd to test the drives.Just a minor update. I swapped sata cables and the drive is still not showing up during a cold boot. Neither in My Computer or disk management. Gunna get a fitness test burned to cd and give that a GO. Will post another update after that.Alright, heres a final update. Did a fitness test on it (Quick and extended). Nothing came back. Drive is supposedly doing just fine. So I went ahead and did a full erase and wrote zeros the the entire disk. Just formatted it. Gunna see what happens after this. Quote from: Allan on October 25, 2010, 10:39:43 AM

Next time it does NOT appear in Windows, take a look in Disk Management and see if it's there.

I DONT know why but my usb ports stopped working since yesterday, i have windows 7 64 bits on a toshiba c650-01t laptop, it was working fine for while then it just stopped, when i GO on device manager i dont see anything not installed, please help!!In device manager under "universal serial bus controllers" what is listed in the expanded menu and are there any yellow asterisks or question marks there? truenorthThere is no question mark or anything, i checked everything and it was all okPlease answer this portion "what is listed in the expanded menu" ? truenorthThis is in device manager, sry its in french
Ok well they all seem to be listed. I am going to make a SUGGESTION but i want you to wait before doing it until other members can comment on the desirability and likelihood that it can help solve your problem.
My suggestion is (via the device manager) uninstall ALL the USB entries from the computer. Then reboot the computer and the usb devices should be detected and reinstalled automatically. This suggestion is made premised that your USB devices are enabled in the BIOS. Please await further input from other members. truenorthIt should also be known as to what TYPE of device is inserted via a usb PORT...

Alright, so I have this nice logitech microphone. Its been WORKING fine forever but more recently I started to use it more often especially on skype. However what happens is when I get into a call with someone I have to go to my volume control. Which microphone is ALWAYS checked as mute. After I UNCHECK it I have to go to "Advanced" and uncheck "Alternate Microphone". Because when my microphone is unmuted but alternate microphone is checked it makes usually loud beeping noises that annoys my contacts and also makes it so I cant hear what they say till I fix. However after I uncheck the Alternate Microphone, and press close out of the windows. If not immediatly, shortly after I do this it goes back checked. Occasionally after I repeat the processes enough, it may actually work.

This is too complicated and annoying to do everytime I want to talk to someone. So what can I do to fix this? My hardware is all working fine, so I think its something internal. Do sound cards even have drivers? Would that be the problem? It says my sound is "C Media Wave Device" or something of the sort.

I just want to make it so if I call someone via Skype or use my mic anytime that it works without doing anything and works fine. The only thing I should worry about is if I unmuted it on the actual piece on the mic itself.Have you tried another mic?

If the mic isn't USB I doubt it is what is CAUSING it.

Could be being caused by any number of peices of SOFTWARE including the soundcard drivers or rather the accompanying software that ussually comes with it for configuring.

You don't by any chance have another mic connected be that explcitly or in the form of a web cam or similar device with one built in.

If so this may be taking precedence over the other...

Just a THOUGHT...

Quote from: No-one on November 09, 2010, 05:16:16 PM

If the mic isn't USB I doubt it is what is causing it.

Could be being caused by any number of peices of software including the soundcard drivers or rather the accompanying software that ussually comes with it for configuring.

You don't by any chance have another mic connected be that explcitly or in the form of a web cam or similar device with one built in.

If so this may be taking precedence over the other...

Just a thought...

I have an IBM thinkpad (a friend of mine) that I'm trying to see what's wrong with it. Whenever you start it up, it RUNS through the diagnostic tests and eventually provides the message listed in my subject. I attempted to press f12 during one of the reboots since i saw something on here from someone else that had luck but didn't really see anything i felt comfortable about changing. After i exited, it began rebooting and displayed the error "No operating system FOUND". I then turned the power off and began receiving the same message as i originally got "a disk read error occurred".
Before i received the computer, my friend was told the hard drive was shot and there was no hope in RETRIEVING any files. Is this true? Any help would be greatly APPRECIATED.

Thank you,

FrankQuote from: Katman_09 on October 29, 2010, 05:04:19 PM

...Before i received the computer, my friend was told the hard drive was shot and there was no hope in retrieving any files. Is this true?....

Hey guys, would this http://www.zumaxpower.com/products/zu500w.htm PSU be good enough with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198016 to run a EVGA GTX 460 1GB? Thanks!no.
It is not a PSU but just a cable so I think it may lack the power you need ;-).

???Lol umm the FIRST link is the PSU I currently have and the cable is because I only have one 6 PIN PCI-E plug.Apologies... Must have clicked the same link twice....


It depends on what else you have in it and if you are only using 1.

Even with quite a low consumption CPU, and 1 hardrive you will find you will be being a bit marginal. Probably would say get a 600 Watt PSU and then you have some WIGGLE room for expansion later...Lols probably... I didn't think it was possible to run anything on just a cable . Just didn't want to spend more money on a new PSU until I fully upgrade my stuff later. Since I could get the GTX 460 1gb for 150.Quote from: Steven5210 on November 11, 2010, 12:27:52 AM

Hey guys, would this http://www.zumaxpower.com/products/zu500w.htm PSU be good enough with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812198016 to run a EVGA GTX 460 1GB? Thanks!

I searched for this, but couldn't find an answer, so if it's already been covered or if I am doing this WRONG at all, I'll seppuku later.

I have an I-Inc iH252 monitor, and it won't stay on. When it is connected to the video card/powered on, it COMES on for about 3-5 seconds, and then goes black. The power indicator remains green, but nothing will bring the image back up. If I turn the power off and back on, the monitor comes back on for 3-5 seconds, then back to black. Same with disconnecting/connecting from the video card, disconnecting/connecting the power source, and restarting the PC. Obviously, I've checked and rechecked the connections.Is this more LIKELY a driver issue, or a hardware issue?

I am running Windows 7, and

This is the monitor in question -

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4938551

And I have this video card -

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?Sku=E145-9504

Can anyone help, or am I just down a monitor?First thing I would do is try a different monitor. BORROW one from a friend or neighbor and narrow down the problem.

How OLD is it? Is it still under warranty?Agreed - either try a different display on this system or try this display on a different system.

I have two hard drives in my desktop (Gateway). I'd like to combine the info on the slave and master hard drives to a new larger hard drive. Is there a recommended program for the data transfer? Are the drives raided? What OS are you using?

If not, I would use Acronis true image to clone your master drive to the new drive. Then I would use quickmirror to copy the contents of your slave drive to a location in your new drive. You might have to repair some bad sectors or write a new MBR if the PC won't boot after the cloning.Both HDs are Western Digital, running on Windows XP OS. Not sure what the term "raided" means, but the old HD is a slave and the newer is the master. The intent was to transfer data from both units to one new, larger unit.

Thanks.Don't WORRY about the "raid" QUESTION - or the OS. Using disk IMAGING software was a good suggestion. Thanks, I'll give Quickmirror a shot.Yeah, if you're running windows don't worry about the OS question. If you see only one drive instead of 2 drives in windows that HOLDS your data, worry about the raid question Quote from: coyote454 on October 30, 2010, 03:16:36 PM

Thanks, I'll give Quickmirror a shot.

I am thinking about getting a new motherboard/CPU/memory - and I WANT to know if I should go the AMD Hexcore route vs. the Intel Core i7 route.

Which will give me the most speed for the dollar?Right now the Intel i7 processors in my opinion are the best processors currently available but the their FASTEST chip, Intel Core i7-980X Extreme Edition, is extremely expensive but AMD recently released the new AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition is a bit slower its a lot CHEAPER so it will give you better value.

AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2010/04/27/amd-phenom-ii-x6-1090t-black-edition/1

Intel Core i7-980X Extreme Edition
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpus/2010/03/11/intel-core-i7-980x-extreme-edition-review/1

Intel Core i7-980X Extreme Edition vs AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/05/06/amd-phenom-ii-six-core-1090t1095t-thuban-review/Thanx for the FEEDBACK.

Ever since I replaced my hard drive, which also changed my system from XP to 7, I get a screen that asks me if I want to scan and fix my iPod and my Samsung Galaxy S phone whenever I plug them in.

It asked similar questions with USB sticks, but once I said "yes" one time and one time only, it has stopped asking. (Incidentally, it has never found a problem with any of the drives when I allow it to scan.)

So it appears that there's something about a DEVICE that isn't strictly memory.

Recap:

It's happening on my Dell Latitude running Win 7; I haven't seen this on any other computers.

It doesn't matter which USB slot I plug into; it happens in all slots, not just one or two of them.

It started when I put in a NEW hard drive.

It happens when I plug in iPod Nano Generation 5 and my Samsung Galaxy S, not when I plug in USB sticks or an iOmega 500GB drive.

Thoughts?It actually now also happens when I plug in my iOmega drive. It still does NOT occur when I plug in a stick that's already been scanned once.When i connect my BB, Kapersky asks me if i want it to scan the drive. It sees the mem/mem card as a drive i guess, but i don't KNOW that that's you're type of issue. Do you need apps or drivers for you're devices on the new drive?Found this one: http://windows.bigresource.com/Track-vista-P9s20zAL/Will give all that a try. Seems like "Big Resource.com" is like the CH for 13 year olds?How are disconnecting these devices? Are you just unplugging them or do you tell Windows to safely remove them before unplugging them?

This message often comes up when you plug in media devices to a Vista or Seven system that weren't released properly before being unplugged.I was under the impression that using "Eject iPod" in iTunes, and "unmount"ing my phone would safely disconnect...?

Nevertheless, I *never* use the "Safely Remove Hardware" option, and yet some drives consistently give me the "Scan and Fix?" and some drives consistently do not. Quote from: rjbinney on November 10, 2010, 09:24:59 PM

I was under the impression that using "Eject iPod" in iTunes, and "unmount"ing my phone would safely disconnect...?

Nevertheless, I *never* use the "Safely Remove Hardware" option, and yet some drives consistently give me the "Scan and Fix?" and some drives consistently do not.

Try this one : http://www.futureofrealestatetechnology.com/general-real-estate-technology/resolve-vista-scan-and-fix-error-when-plugging-in-ipod-or-other-devices/

Pretty short article to be "full" of misinformation; but what specifically is incorrect? (Just in case?)

I spoke with a member friday evening that said after setting up Vista home premium his computer would give him an error to Scan and Fix his IPOD.

The reason for the error is that his IPOD was formatted FAT32 on Windows XP

What happens is the device was not properly dismounted by Windows XP and there is an archival bit set that Vista needs to reset before it will stop reporting there is an error.

(I got into the habit of not ejecting because my 500GB drive is, apparently, ALWAYS "in use and cannot be ejected at this time", even when I have no software other than Windows running)

Thankfully, with Windows 7, removing a USB device is a two click process. (technically, it was a two-click process with Vista/XP/2K too, but nobody ever seemed to bother to try left-clicking the notification icon)

(I got into the habit of not ejecting because my 500GB drive is, apparently, ALWAYS "in use and cannot be ejected at this time", even when I have no software other than Windows running)

I love that. People are so amazed when I show them that.

This can also be a sign of an infection on either the system or the drive

Here is whats going on, hope you can help...

I have a relatively new PC that has been working great: Asus p7p55d LE motherboard, Intel core I7 860 CPU and 2gb of Patriot DDR3 1600 MHz memory.Running Windows 7 64bit

Then someone bought me 4GB Extra RAM( Corsair dominator 4GB DDR3 1600mhz 2x2GB ) yesterday.

So I tried putting in all 6GB(3 DIMMS) of ram but no success. The PC won’t boot. Nothing happens except all the fans are running and the asus “MEMOK” light keeps burning.
So I tried holding the “memok” button but that also did not work. It just went through all the tests.

So I took out the old patriot memory and placed the 2 Corsair DIMMS in the A1 and B1 slots. I started the PC and it got stuck at the windows logo while loading windows. But after a few times of RESETTING and swapping DIMMS I got it to fully go into windows with that same configuration. But now the problem is that when I right click on the my computer ICON->Properties it only shows 2GB of memory?

Is there any way of using all 6GB of memory, or at least 4GB? Please help.
Is the Corsair RAM listed in the preferred vendors list in your ASUS MBoard manual ? ?Yes it isTry booting with only one of the Corsair sticks. And then try the other one. There is the possibility that one of them is bad.