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Hi all, I need help RESOLVING numerous BSODs recently.
It is a new PC constructed by myself. The following is the logs. I appreciate any help in resolving this
The BSOD are random btw and can OCCUR any time; all have been during gaming except for the one on the 1st June 2010 - i was doing a word document

==================================================
Dump File : 060110-32526-01.dmp
Crash Time : 01/06/2010 16:35:58
Bug Check String : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1 : fffff800`5ba42bc8
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4 : fffff800`02ccb0ff
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70600
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File VERSION : 6.1.7600.16539 (win7_gdr.100226-1909)
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\060110-32526-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 052710-23072-01.dmp
Crash Time : 27/05/2010 21:46:08
Bug Check String : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1 : 00000000`739e2bf3
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000008
Parameter 4 : fffff800`02c970e6
Caused By Driver : USBPORT.SYS
Caused By Address : USBPORT.SYS+11d1
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\052710-23072-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 052610-23103-01.dmp
Crash Time : 26/05/2010 00:55:50
Bug Check String : KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001e
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : dxgmms1.sys
Caused By Address : dxgmms1.sys+83f1
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\052610-23103-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 052510-21091-01.dmp
Crash Time : 25/05/2010 23:55:00
Bug Check String : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1 : 00000000`000000c2
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4 : fffff880`041dbb16
Caused By Driver : usbehci.sys
Caused By Address : usbehci.sys+1b16
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\052510-21091-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 052510-22698-01.dmp
Crash Time : 25/05/2010 13:23:09
Bug Check String : KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001e
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : dxgmms1.sys
Caused By Address : dxgmms1.sys+7f76
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\052510-22698-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 052310-22542-01.dmp
Crash Time : 23/05/2010 14:07:26
Bug Check String : ATTEMPTED_EXECUTE_OF_NOEXECUTE_MEMORY
Bug Check Code : 0x000000fc
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00912bc3
Parameter 2 : dac00001`b1544847
Parameter 3 : fffff880`02f1b940
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : USBPORT.SYS
Caused By Address : USBPORT.SYS+1f4e
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\052310-22542-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 052310-24975-01.dmp
Crash Time : 23/05/2010 13:02:43
Bug Check String : KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x0000001e
Parameter 1 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver : dxgkrnl.sys
Caused By Address : dxgkrnl.sys+313f
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : x64
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\052310-24975-01.dmp
Processors Count : 8
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
==================================================

The errors show different causes to a similar end, i.e. BSOD. This tends to make me BELIEVE that it might not be related to the files in QUESTION, but some other unrelated action. Overheating is a possibility as you mention that it has happened during intense CPU activity, e.g. gaming.
Try taking a look at event viewer (administrative tools>computer management>select event viewer) to see if anything stands out there. Also, run an app like CPU-Z to check your MB/CPU temps in operation.1) Update all drivers
2) Check for a bios flash

If problem persists please post back.cheers for the replies.........all drivers are up to date

so may try the BIOS flash

So I have a Compaq Presario V5000 and I've been having problems with the lcd.. I bought a NEW inverter and it helped for a bit.. The only thing I noticed was every now and then the backlight would go out and I would have to close the laptop and then open it back up to get it to turn on.. It started doing that more frequently and then the other night it went out and I couldn't get it to turn back on.. The backlight that is.. You can see the screen is on but it's just not light up.. So I ordered another new inverter (the first one is only 2 months old..) and I just RECEIVED it today.. I put it in and booted up the computer and everything was fine.. For about 10 mins.. Then the screen went out again and I can't get it to come back on.. Again it's just the backlight the actual screen is still on you can just barely see it because it's dark.. I should also mention that I replaced the entire lcd.. I bought a new screen and put that in 2 months ago with the first inverter.. I took out the new screen and stuck the old one in to check the inverter and to make sure it wasn't an issue with the new screen.. The old one wouldn't light up either and it did before so I know it's the inverter.. Basically what I WANT to know is, is it possible to get two inverters that are lemons?? The one that came today wasn't packaged very well at all! I PURCHASED both from ebay and both stated that they were "brand new".. Is there something I'm not aware of when I'm putting the inverters in.. I was insanely CAREFUL with both.. Any help would be much appreciated, I'm going crazy!!

Hello,

We RECENTLY acquired a Buffalo LS-CHL NAS for our buisiness. I went through all the SETUP and everything and got to the admin menu in the browser interface and was prompted to a firmware update available. I started the update and have now been sitting at the update screen for 2 days now with no progress evident. I'm not really sure what to do from here and would appreciate any help. Thanks!I am not WELL VERSED with NASes... but I'll try to help.
Evidently it is not advisable to turn it off in the middle of an update. However, you have been waiting for 2 days... try calling Buffalo customer support. If for some reason you wish to repair it by yourself I would just cut power to it. If it won't reboot after cutting power to it, you could disassemble it and take the hard drive out. From a few schematics online the LS-CHL v2 uses a CONVENTIONAL SATA hard drive, more precisely the WD Caviar Green WD10EADS 7200RPM, which you can then plug directly into your computer or plug into an external enclosure to recover your files.Here's the Read Me 1st...

http://cdn.cloudfiles.mosso.com/c85091/ls-chl-v1_fw112_en.txt

Hi,
I built myself a computer and it works fine. But ever since I have built it the front usb do not work. I thought I will try to get them sorted out but I don't know what else to do, I checked that they were plugged in and even switched sockets on the mobo but nothing.

Under device manager I get display of 4 usb controllers which must be the back four; they work fine. My motherboard is an asus p5b VM se and the cable to connect is all joint up rather than loose individuals bit. Thanks for any help.If you've already checked that the front USB cable is plugged in and you've tried a diffeent socket, I would say the panel is dead. You should be able to get a replacement from the case manufacturer though.mmm that may be the case with the case but on the same panel the audio in/out are also present and they work fine. They must be separate from the usbs i supposeThey're on a separate cable yes which would explain why the USB ports don't work but the audio does. Usually however the panel as a whole is replaced, some cases are different ... what case is it you're using?I have a similar case. I can't plug my microphone to the front socket to listen music. I don't know why, and the back sockets work fine. I got this problem since the day I brought the computer. About 3 years..I have this case:
http://jeantech.com/a-r2.htm

It does have a one year warranty so I'll have a look to see if I still have the receipt or perhaps email them and see what they say about the situation.Quote from: hopemy on April 28, 2010, 07:55:21 PM

I have a similar case. I can't plug my microphone to the front socket to listen music. I don't know why, and the back sockets work fine. I got this problem since the day I brought the computer. About 3 years..

I have this case:
http://jeantech.com/a-r2.htm

It does have a one year warranty so I'll have a look to see if I still have the receipt or perhaps email them and see what they say about the situation.

In your situation, it sounds like the HD Audio or Realtek AC '97 connector is not plugged in properly. Check the manual for your case and motherboard to see what the conenctor looks like and where it should go.

having trouble copying files to a CD from my laptop.

Ony able to copy a few files when I should be able to copy much more

and sometimes the CD comes out a little scratched.

Hello guys!

Today, computer locked up (hang) after playing Battlefield 3 for about 5 minutes or so. I restarted it and again run the game and the same thing happened. Then for the third time, after lowering my graphics' settings, I ran the game again, but the computer again froze up. There afterwards, when I restarted my PC, it failed to DETECT my GPU at all (in the Device Manager), though it was using the DVI PORT of the same GPU to display very low quality (CPU emulated) visuals, even during the BIOS POST and subsequent start-up phases. So, I had to resort to internal graphic card after this happened and it's working fine.

I have been playing normally for past 2 years with no problem at all. So what can be the possible reason for the current problem? Is it some kind of problem with the motherboard (like faulty PCIe controller) or has my GPU started malfunctioning?

My PC specs are below:
Intel Core2Duo 3.0 GHz
4 GB RAM
EVGA GTS 250 (512MB)
ASUS P5KPL-AM Mainboard

Any help would be welcome!It would be best if you could test the GTS 250 in another computer.
Did your graphics card shows signs of malfunctioning(artifacts, corruption, etc) before this issue?I'll check it on my FRIEND's system tomorrow and post the results.
Also, it did not show any sign of malfunctioning in the past. It was working perfectly! Plus, I am sure the temperatures would have never risen to a dangerous level to cause this problem.
Is it possible that the PCIe controller on the MB might have malfunctioned?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northbridge_(computing)
The Northbridge handles the CPU, RAM, PCIe, and AGP connections, so there would likely be other signs of instability if it had malfunctioned. I tested another GPU on my motherboard's PCI slot and it worked fine. So, that means... my GPU died! What are the possible problems which might have caused it? I am talking about which physical components on the GPU board might have been damaged?
Please reply!Also, my system can still route the output display through the faulty GTS 250, even though it cannot detect it and can't utilize it, even to 10% of its full potential. Moreover, as its warranty has also been expired, I was thinking of opening it up and cleaning it and then heating it with a heat-gun (which I have at my home). Is there be any chance that some component's connection, that might have become loose due to dirt or overheating over the years, get fixed and GPU starts working again? Is there any hope?Yes... with repeated contracting and expanding there may be FRACTURES in the micro solder joints of the components of your graphics card.
People have managed to revive their graphics cards with varying degrees of success by baking them in an oven. I have successfully revived a dead stick of RAM with a hairdryer (To be precise, a Panasonic 1200W hairdryer )
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=696061&mpage=1
http://www.siliconmadness.com/2009/06/bake-gpu-bring-it-from-afterlife.html
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~ktomlinson6/gpubake.html
I would think a heatgun could work, but I wouldn't know which particular component(s) to apply heat to...
DISCLAIMER: IF YOU DO CHOOSE TO BAKE YOUR CARD IN THE OVEN, PLEASE EXERCISE PROPER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (I.E. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES, STAY AWAY FROM THE FUMES AND PROVIDE GOOD VENTILATION, USE OVEN MITTS AFTER YOU ARE DONE), AND DO NOT BAKE ANY FOOD IN THE OVEN AFTER YOU ARE DONE-YOU DON'T WANT TO END UP IN THE E.R. WITH A BAD CASE OF FOOD POISONING.So, I tried "the baking thing" using my heat-gun, focusing its maximum-sized nozzle directly on the GPU chip at a height of 1 inch for about 50 to 60 seconds. And by the grace of God, it started working, like new! My GPU was resurrected Thanks a lot Transfusion for building up my confidence and suggesting me some nice cooking links!
Now, lets hope it keeps working long enough after its "this" surgery

HP Pavilion a1130n is the model.
Few WEEKS ago computer stopped working, won't detect the hard drive anymore.
I made sure the plug to the motherboard and PSU (*censored*/e they're called) were plugged correctly, and yeah. It just randomly stopped working one DAY (as far as I know) and I was just wondering if anyone had some advice how to check if it's the harddrive itself (Although I've tried 2 seperate hard drives, one of which I know works) or maybe the MB or PSU.
It turns on, I can go to the BIOS, I can run a Windows disk off the CD Drive, but.. yeah..
When it goes to booting from hard drive it just can't detect it >.>
Thanks in advance for any help, and if you need more info to do so just ask~Quote from: Puddings on April 26, 2010, 05:19:16 PM

HP Pavilion a1130n is the model....
It turns on, I can go to the BIOS, I can run a Windows disk off the CD Drive, but.. yeah..
When it goes to booting from hard drive it just can't detect it ...

Is that the plug that goes to the motherboard? If so, I tried one from one of our older computer sand it didn't work than, either...

I have Asus: p5gc-mx7333 mother board. I am facing problem when I try to connect it with two sata drives (Either Harddisk-Harddisk or harddisk-dvd drive). PLEASE help me finding the solution ? My hard disk is Seagate's and DVD drive is LG's.


Thanks in advanceWhat are the problems you are having ? ?
Does each HDD have an OS installed ? ?
Is the optical drive SATA as WELL ? ?

So there are 3 drives involved...not 2 correct ? ?We'll need more information before we can understand your issue.

You MENTION "connect it with two sata drives (Either Harddisk-Harddisk or harddisk-dvd drive)" I don't understand how you are doing this with SATA drives....are you sure they are not EIDE?
If it is EIDE, your board only supports a maximum of 2 devices.

When connected with individual cables to the motherboard, are both drives visible in the BIOS?He stated SATA drives...

I understand what he said PATIO but thanks for the reminder (again).

I want to rule out the possibility of EIDE/SATA confusion, its very common, as any fix WOULD be different for either case."my sata port was crashed......"

Was it insured? Sorry couldn't resist! More info please.

I just bought a L505D GS6000 computer and am very satisfied. However their is one very annoying issue that KINDA makes me want my old A305-S6916 computer back. When playing any type of simulator game, such as a flight simulator the resolution/aspect ratio of the screen is always messed up. For example an object in the game such as an aircraft will look stretched when veiwed in the horizontal (facing left and right on screen), and look flattened/shortened whenever it's viewed in the vertical (Facing TOP to bottom of screen). I've tried every fix imaginable, changing aspect ratio and resolution, changing one or the other at a time (these two options only reverse or worsen the effect), and using ATI Catalyst control center, etc. but nothing seems to help. I'm not familiar with the ATI Mobility Radeon HD4200 graphics system, and it might just be a feature of this card. Anyway if ANYONE can help I'll take any suggestions. One more thing that might be the problem is that this game was made in 2006, so its somewhat dated however my old computer had a 16:9 screen obviously just like this one and it never had this problem. Also the reccomended resolution for the L505D GS6000 is 1366x768, I've never used this setting before, nor did I know it existed on any CURRENT computer. So I guess in the end my point is SINCE the game is old, could it not be capable of running with these modern features and settings.



Thanks Don't know if this relevant as i have not researched your monitor. However many years ago on a CRT monitor i had this type of problem. If i recollect the problem was created by the incorrect monitor Hz being used. Once i changed it the problem was gone. truenorth

I took a hard drive out of a computer that I disposed of. My aunt has a computer that I would like to take her hard drive out, and put mine in. When I try to do it, I can't ever get Windows to start up. As soon as I put hers back in, everything works fine.
I have been all over the internet, and read stuff about the BIOS, and I don't understand why I can't get to use my hard drive.
Its an old IDE. I need to be able to use this drive as it has important music and pics on it.You can't take a bootable hard drive with Windows installed on it from one PC and put it into a different computer and RUN that Windows on the other computer. If you want to access your files on the drive, INSTALL it as a slave or in a USB external case.
The drive that I took out of my disposed computer is very important. It has lots of music files, etc. Its just sitting on my desk gathering dust. I want to be able to use this hard drive. Its an old IDE, and I have DONE so much research, that this whole slave/master deal is a joke. I just want to put this drive into a computer and it run. I would like to buy a new computer and add my old drive to it.
Plus, I am a visual learner, and when all of these sites go into all of this tech stuff, they lose me.
I just want to use my hard drive. What can I do?BeachGaBulldog, Firstly as a GA Bulldogs fan you ought to be able to follow simple instructions unlike a GA Tech fan. Salmon Trout has told you (extremely BRIEFLY and to the POINT) EXACTLY what you need to do.It does not matter what you have or don't have on the HDD you MUST follow his instructions or it will NOT work. Period.truenorth

Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 31, 2010, 08:34:59 AM

Sounds like he has Vista, Not XP.

...i am sorry to say that a pentium 2 is not going to run anything better that windows 98. If you are using windows XP, get a copy of 98 and try again...

I can tell you from my direct experience that the Pentium II will run Windows 2000 & XP, assuming they have at least 128MB of RAM. Performance is comparable to Win98.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/304297

I can tell you from my direct experience that the Pentium II will run Windows 2000 & XP, assuming they have at least 128MB of RAM. Performance is comparable to Win98.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/304297

I used a K6-2 @350Mhz with 96MB, then 128MB, and finally 512MB, running XP SP3 for a total of 5 years. It runs fine. Of course I was an over-optimizer, half of the services were disabled, I didn't use Luna until I got a new graphic card, and a few other things, but it was usable, and I could run a <lot> more programs then I ever could with win98.

Win98 is more responsive- yes.

But windows 95 is faster still, and windows 3.1 is even faster. you have to draw the line somewhere, and the majority of consumer applications are no longer runnable on windows 98 at all. Good luck trying to find a AV program that is still supported with updates, for example.

Now it's time to be serious.
Installing Windows 2000 would be the best choice for this machine. There are many useful programs out there that run very well on Windows 2000. Some excellent programs are available as free downloads off the Internet.
But taking several minutes to load Windows XP often indicates some kind of problem with either the hardware, drivers for the hardware, or a very aggressive AV program.
There's also the possibility that the disk drive is very near the end of life. Windows XP by itself does little in the way of hard drive diagnostics. You have to use one of the tools available from the manufacturers to run a diagnostic on the disc drive to see if it is acceptable. He can pick up a very good reconditioned hard drive for under $40.
Memory for that old machine should be is cheap by now. It uses a memory stick that does not have the same pin configuration as the newer machines.

when USING the system, automatically restarting how to solve this problems.

i tried following in the ways

1. change the ram
2.unplug all the cable and again plug
3.used OS cd and give repair

if you have idea please reply me

with regards

B.Nagarajan System Properties - Advanced - Startup & Recovery SETTINGS - Uncheck "automatically restart". Next time there's an error you should get a BSOD. Post the CONTENTS of that blue screen here.

Has anyone ever opened up a External Hard Drive and installed it as a Internal Drive? I ASK because my computer (HP s3700f) dosen't have the space for a second hard drive and I'l like to replace the 320 Gig with a 1.5 Tb I have.

Thanks
JohnYes...it will work.

But to do it properly even if there isn't enough space would be to create a Clone image of your drive...and then clone it to the new one.
Course you'll need to borrow another external SINCE yours is going in the PC.I lost you. Why would I have to borrow an external? Maybe I worded my post wrong. The 320 Gig HD in my computer now would be replaced by the 1.5 TB. Physically, 2 HD's won't fit in my computer cause it's a slimline. I'm just trying to avoid buying a HD right now. I don't care about reinstalling the OS and programs.

JohnYour PC model is listed as having both SATA and IDE ports on its motherboard so whatever disk you find inside the external case should work. One problem may be that the external case might be sealed (glued) or use special screws. I have a Seagate which is glued. If it is glued you might have to break the case. If you then found that you can't use it in your PC you would have to buy another (empty) enclosure, but these are not very expensive. There may be photo or video guides on the web showing how to open your external drive model, but you have not said its make or model. Just one example of many: a YouTube video showing how to open a Seagate 1.5 TB Free Agent drive here (using a knife). Be aware that you will void your external drive warranty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73jHstTFGFo

A still I captured:




Quote from: Jahness on December 21, 2011, 09:37:20 AM

Has anyone ever opened up a External Hard Drive and installed it as a Internal Drive? I ask because my computer (HP s3700f) dosen't have the space for a second hard drive and I'l like to replace the 320 Gig with a 1.5 Tb I have.

Thanks
John

I thought the hard drive would be smaller than normal size hard drive. Is your external HD the same dimensions as the HD in the slimline? Just asking? Something to consider.

HP Pavilion Slimline s3700f

Expansion Bays 1 (total) / 0 (free) x Front accessible - 5.25",
1 (total) / 0 (free) x Internal - 3.5", <------------------------ the single hard drive bay
1 (total) / 1 (free) x Pocket MEDIA Drive bay

I guess I was concerned that the HD in a external case would be different.

Hello All:

Very recently, my 'a' key stopped functioning properly. There was another problem with the 'w' key that was and STILL is a problem, but I have adjusted to it.

Anyway, the 'a' key will be pressed and not do anything at all unless it is pressed repeatedly, then about every 5-10 strokes it prints a character. About 10 minutes ago I discovered that it works almost flawlessly when it is used with the shift key, but every once in a while it prints two characters instead of one. So I have caps lock on and am typing while holding shift. The 'w' key, in case you would like to know, works but will continue to fire after the key has been released.

The reasoning behind my putting this under the drivers section is that ALTHOUGH I have limited knowledge on the inner workings of keyboards, I would think that if 'a' doesn't work then shift + a shouldn't work, either (If it were a hardware problem).

Computer specs are as follows:
Compaq Presario CQ56
Windows 7 Home Premium (SP1) x64
Standard PS/2 Keyboard Driver (Up-to-date, and I just reinstalled it)

If any more information is necessary, then ask and ye shall receive.It has nothing to do with drivers. Have you tried a different keyboard?I do not have a USB keyboard to test with, and I have only a USB to PS/2 adapter and not the opposite.Well, you need to test the keyboard. Either try a different keyboard on the system or try the keyboard on a different system. 99% it's a faulty keyboard.Well then, I guess that's all that I'm ABLE to do for this then. Thanks for the information, in case I decide to do something about this LATER.

alright, so i heard hyperthreading is basically a speed boost in your CPU and wanted to know if i have that option in my CPU. i have a Pentium 4 CPU and i even will post what it says on the CPU later. my System has the HP d530 SFF(PB604A) with a custom CPU of 3GHz, not the original 2.80Ghz. I have 1.5GB of RAM a 60GB master hard DRIVE, 80GB slave, 256mb Radeon 9600 graphics CARD. All i want to know is if my CPU can enable hyperthreading, the exact definition of hyperthreading, what it really does and if i was even close to what it really is. Here is what was written on my CPU:

Intel 03
Pentium 4
3.00GHz/IM/800
SL97L MALAY
L408A804


M410A438
0714

ANY help will be great, thanks

PS> the motherboard isnt in the original case either, its inside a tower, has custom CPU and maxed out to my knowledge, and by me.
The models of P4s that have Hyper-Threading.

http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/hyperthreading-technology-explained/
http://software.intel.com/en-us/articles/intel-hyper-threading-technology-your-questions-answered/
Basically, Open up Task Manager, if you see 2 graphs under "CPU Usage History," then your P4 has Hyperthreading support-Hyperthreading creates 2 logical processors for each core you have. The P4 is a single-core CPU.

There are P4s with insane stock clock speeds of 3.8 GHz, so I wouldn't call your 3.0 GHz a "custom" CPU.
From this diagram:
http://www.intel.com/pressroom/kits/quickreffam.htm#P4
Close to the bottom of the chart there is only one model of P4 with a clock speed of 3 GHz which was introduced in April '03; that model supports HT.
Your CPU says: "Intel '03", so I think we have it.by custom i ment that it wasnt the original CPU the motherboard came with, and i dont have two graphs HOWEVER, i have in the properties of my computer it says i have 3.00ghz
then 2.99Ghz does that MEAN i have HT and that its just not active? Hello comda,

Try this:

• Restart the computer then when you see the F10=Setup message on the screen press F10 repeatedly.
• Select the appropriate language option.
• Then go to: ADVANCED > Device Options > Hyper-Threading.
• Set the Hyper-Threading option to enable and then press the F10 key to accept the change.
• Select: File > Save Changes and Exit then press enter.
• Press F10 to save changes and exit.

any changes done in the BIOS does not get saved how can i RESOLVE this problemwhat are you trying to do?what and what bios..is it...you know one the machine starts press del it goes into the bios, changing anything their, boot sequence, anything it does not save the settings on exit, once you reboot everything is the same as before.Hey billy im quite sure that all you need to do, is to change the battery on the main board. all the battery does is to remember the BIOS settings, when the COMPUTER is without power.

/Jesper AagaardQuote from: Jesper Aagaard on June 06, 2004, 08:21:13 AM

Hey billy im quite sure that all you need to do, is to change the battery on the main board. all the battery does is to remember the BIOS settings, when the computer is without power.

/Jesper Aagaard

Anyone else?

Why dont you just change the monitor? I dont REALLY think its that hard..I CHANGED the monitor out on this laptop, it's not that difficult but please don't attempt it if you don't know what your doing, it could end in a situation worse than this one.
In my honest opinion, it is get the laptop monitor changed and by a prof if you don't have the skills/knowledge.My laptop is a vaio. The lcd is smooshed. I have been using an external modem but the connection soured *not sure if its the vga port or what..the monitors GOOD. I want to access my files but can't configure "blind" to my LAN. I have no more ideas how to access without total fix. Remote access? Bios hack? Handicap options? Search me. Any Ideas?Vista home premium.If the access to your data is your primary concern, remove the HD from the laptop, buy an HD-USB drive adaptor and connect it to another computer. Your wasting your time thinking this laptop is going to repair itself.not that I think it's gonna fix itself, I just want to view and groove on the cheap. I have been fiddling around with windows narrator and am close to establishing a network lol.

My mouse is not working. I was downloading FL Studio 8 when my mouse STOPPED moving. Everything else was fine, keyboard was ok and the software continued downloading. I restarted my pc and the mouse started working. The next day the same problem. While working, mouse stopped. Then for two or three days the mouse worked around 5 or 10 min when i turned my pc on but then stopped and i had to use the keyboard. I went to Control Panel, mouse properties, hardware and it was nothing in the "Devices". I tried my mouse at my neighbour's pc and it worked and the red light is still turned on. So I guess it still works and i don't have to replace it. What should i do?
I forgot to mention but sometimes, very rarely, my keyboard doesn't work either. I push buttons and stuff, try the Num LOCK and it doesn't work, I wait about 20 seconds and the keyboard turns back to normal, and all the buttons i pushed so their thing, EVEN if it's late. I didn't install any hardware lately. I am on a Windows XP (sp3 or sp2 i dont know exactly).Batteries getting low?I don't know how to CHECK that.I have a Logitech wireless keyboard/mouse combo. The Logitech software alerts me when either the keyboard or mouse batteries are low. If your software does not tell you the condition of your batteries, you would simply need to replace batteries to determine whether that was the problem.

What brand and model mouse and keyboard do you have? Did you install software that came with them or from the manufacturer's website?You're in a thread from last year. You need to start a new thread with your problem. And there's no way to "delete mouse" from the command prompt.

If it was me, I'd return the drive for replacement and see if it was perhaps just an oddball/slightly faulty drive that was rather noisy ...

I have phillips desktop speakers with a sub. The speakers lead GOES into the speakers out PORT in the sub and the there is a remote control which plugs into the green port in the computer.

My problem is, the remote control WIRE is snaped and the volume was turned down at the time so when I put the speakers directly into the back of the computer ther is only slight sound and the volume will go no higher. I've looked all through volume / setting and I cannot find a way to get the voume up.

Is there a way I can use the speaker WITHOUT having to use the volume control it came with or can I control the volume the remote controls from the computer?

Many thanksQuote from: hantaah on June 01, 2010, 03:16:05 PM

My problem is, the remote control wire is snaped and the volume was turned down at the time so when I put the speakers directly into the back of the computer ther is only slight sound and the volume will go no higher. I've looked all through volume / setting and I cannot find a way to get the voume up.

Thanks for all your help Computer_Commando. I really APPRECIATE it. ... Well, he already bid on one and is STILL the highest bidder, so we'll have to wait and see if he actually win it or not. But the one you showed me is pretty amazing too. If he doesn't win, then I'll just have him get that INSTEAD.
PS. the P4-12V is to power the CPU, am I correct? and I know that it can't be used on with the main connector. Quote from: spider0735 on APRIL 26, 2010, 12:30:49 PM

...the P4-12V is to power the CPU, am I correct? and I know that it can't be used on with the main connector...

AMD processer will take long time to boot up

try to change intel mother board

I have a couple of USB storage devices ( 2GB and 4GB). I've got about 55Mb already on my smaller
one and 200Mb on the larger. But now when I try to add new data FILES. (Jpeg, .xl, wp....whatever,
a window comes up telling me "unable to create file on USB drive J". The drives were 'formatted' when I
first installed them.....and I loaded the data I have on them all at once. Now I'm trying to "ADD" more data
and they won't accept it. So basically I have devices with a LOT of space that I can't USE. When I look at
the properties box, the pie chart shows me I have 3.8Gb available, and 1.5Gb respectively.
To me it sounds like a formating or 'partioning' issue. How can I get around this....with out 're-formatting'
and losing all the valuable data I've got on them??? Someone help step me thru the process.
Thanks so much!!!!!Copy the data from the flash drives to your computer's hard drive, now it's backed up. Try to format the flash drives. You can use this to format it.Computer_Commando's advice is the right way to go, just be careful that you format them to a USABLE FAT (file allocation table). I would suggest FAT32 instead of FAT as there are less limitations in using the device.

One other thing I've come across is when you try to copy lots of separate files to or from a thumbdrive in one operation, it will error or not complete. I've had success with putting the files into a folder first and then copying the folder over.Thanks to both of you for your assistance. Your process worked nicely. I thought they were already formatted
properly. Guess not.

im trying to hook my LAPTOP(asus 1001pxd) to my tv which is a phillips the laptop only has a vga port and the tv only has a hdmi port so i bought a vga to hdmi cable but for some reason the tv STILL just stays blank when i hook it up........can anyone help?Very basic (like is the power cord plugged in ) but on the off-chance this is your 1ST experience with this PROCESS and you do not know this. Have you selected the appropriate INPUT parameter on your TV to receive the signal from the laptop? truenorth

I was installing a few RAM sticks and when I turned the computer on I GOT a no SIGNAL input on the monitor. Did I do something wrong? I checked all the ribbons and connections any everything is PLUGGED in and tight. SYSTEM worked prior to this and I removed the sticks to be sure and still nothing.





****False alarm. I just found the problem.**** The last stick was not all the WAY in the slot.

Whew!!!!!

Hi!
I've just reinstalled Windows 7 Ultimate to my Aspire 5542-5573, AMD Turion II Ultra, 4 GB/320 GB with Blu ray Disc drive; EVERY thing is ok but now it doesn't play Blu ray Disk, I updated Acer Arcade Deluxe in order to fix it, with no RESULTS. All other type of CD & DVD play ok.
Is there any trick or SW to GET BACK this funcionality?
By the way if I've seen 50 Blu ray DVD with it is a lot.The suggestion i am about to give for the problem may NOT be specific to your hardware. However it contains what i believe are the ELEMENTS to be addressed in order to return the Blu ray component of the optical drive back to service. In the link below scroll down to the reply by "Leon 2006" dated 02/03/2010 as i believe that to be pertinent to your situation. Basically it amounts to the fact that when you reinstalled the O/S specific drivers/filmware was NOT reinstalled that is required by the Blu ray component.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/251314-32-h20l-windows-playing
good luck,truenorth

Hi guys, I've really stuffed up this time...

I am (or was) trying to clean the inside of my DV6 because my fans were getting noisy and the laptop was getting HOT. I got down to the STAGE of disconnecting the power jack from the motherboard when unfortunately, my lack of dexterity made me mess up.

3 of the 6 different colored wires connecting to the power jack on my motherboard were pinched by the pliers I was using. It somehow managed to strip of some of the insulation for the wires. Is there anything I can do so that I don't have to take this computer somewhere to repair?

PLEASE, I'm freaking out right now. My parents would be less than happy with me announcing that I've stuffed my laptop's internals.

It's a HP Pavilion DV6-1128TX, with an Intel Core 2 Duo T6400.

Thanks in advance!!

Edit: The wires are too small to even cover with electrical tape. (whether that was even a good idea I'm not sure)Get a small tube of clear silicone sealant, squeeze a small amount onto the affected area, spread it around with a TOOTHPICK, LET it cure. Make sure it's not a big blob, so it will go back together. Good as new.I owe you $300...

Thanks! Now it's back together and working.Way to go Computer_Commando. Saved Dairyman $300.00. That is what I am talking about. Quote from: Dairyman on December 22, 2011, 04:18:02 PM

I owe you $300...

Thanks! Now it's back together and working.

What system requirements does a computer have to have to play a DVD effectively? I have XP on several computers and can play DVD's fine on 2 of them. The other 2 I have are only 300MHZ. I'm thinking this is the issue I have with herky jerky playback.

Thanksis it when the image pans from one side to the other, it looks a bit jerky, LIKE a couple of frames are missing here and there?Quote from: 2x3i5x on April 30, 2010, 01:53:12 PM

is it when the image pans from one side to the other, it looks a bit jerky, like a couple of frames are missing here and there?

300 MHz is the absolute minimum speed for playing a DVD. Faster is highly recommended. I'd also guess those machines don't have much RAM or a very strong video card. Adding some more RAM might help a little, but I'd just stick to playing DVDs on the faster machines.

you can try updating the drivers, if there are any for it to see if there's any improvement. I'd make a system restore point first before installing the drivers, in case something goes wrong and you need to get back to point zero again.

I'm wondering if you could swap the sound card from the good pc to the one you're having sound problems with? Wondering if it may be that the card is giving problems?

I have been having some issues recently with my computer. At times my screen will have short green lines across it and the computer stops. It is not a full crash however, i can still here sounds on the computer but they are broken and choppy. The mouse works... but the rest of the screen is frozen. The computer is simply nonreactive. the lights on the keyboard freeze. pressing caps LOCK or numb lock do not change the lights. i suspect my motherboard is going but i haven't encountered this before so i do not know. Is this a hardware issue?

Specs
Athelon X2 dual core
Nforce4 M-A motherboard
2G ram
Gforce 8500 videocard
Windows Vista 32 bitHave you tried booting into safe mode? What happens then?
If its ok, its more than likely a software issue.
Did you install/configure/change anything prior to the problem starting?

This problem could be caused by many many things from a loose connection to a failed motherboard and so it'll be a matter of elimination to find the answer. The above questions will give some clues to a path we can follow.Hi Gregl

This type of problem in my experience is caused by the graphics card, or your RAM.

If it was your RAM however, i would expect your machine to crash completely on the event of an error.

So I am inclined to lean toward your graphics card's RAM. As it gets full during use, it is getting to a bad chip, and the graphics it is storing gets corrupted and output like that.

The only thing you can do for it is to replace the graphics card, unless it is still under warranty, send it back for replacement.

Lucky for you a 8500gt replacement card is only $39.99 US for a new card with free shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814141066&Tpk=8500gt
I am assuming your board takes PCI-e because of the other specs and I am fairly certain that NVIDIA stopped producing AGP cards after the 7 series.Quote from: Sodde on June 01, 2010, 06:02:50 AM

Have you tried booting into safe mode? What happens then?
If its ok, its more than likely a software issue.

Ok so yesterday I found my dads old win 98 laptop anywway the screen is wierd its really slow when i drag my mouse It looks like it trails but the setting isn't on and when i scroll up or down it gets blurry I tried it to a reagular screen and it worked fine is the screen ruined or is it like that?

This is a Toshiba satellite 2250
550 MHz Proccessor
160 mb RAM
6 GBhddNot exactly sure what it's doing, but have you checked that the video driver is installed?Do you have recovery discs that came with that computer? A hard drive formatting and fresh installation of Windows might make a miraculous change.

Of course, if it has some important FILES on it, you would need to back them up to something external before formatting.yes i do have recovery disks to it and the computer has go back 3. What confuses me is that when it starts it show the toshiba logo and the screen is still like that when the go back 3 loads but reverting the drive isn't a bad idea. I'll try it after exams It's the screen. Apparently you are used to these new fangled fancy Active Matrix displays. laptops used to have Passive Matrix screens with rather low response time.

My Satellite 440CDX has a similar problem- it's terribly washed out and has an awful response time. But, I used it for years for PROGRAMMING, and it worked great for that.ok but you see I have another laptop that I recieved over the summer. The owner claimed the screen was broken because they droped it but the ribbon cable was unpluged and the side hinge broken from the fall. I also gave it a new CMOS battery and Cleaned the fan out and the screen works great I use it for my dos games and GTA 2 and stuff like that. It a 1999 (same year as the other one) IBM a20m Thinkpad. I also Have a 1994 NEC and the screen RESPONCE time is still better that the toshiba. Are you sure cleaning it with the cd won't work?Yes.

my Toshiba Satellite Pro 440CDX was manufactured in 1996, any my IBM thinkpad 755 CDV was manufactured in 1995.

The Toshiba Satellite display is as I described- the colours are washed out, the response time is so slow that it appears to have trails enabled even when it doesn't, etc.

my Thinkpad has Crystal clear display that RIVALS my newer (late 2009) satellite's display in clarity (but not in resolution... 640x480 vs. 1080 by 800 IIRC).

besides, it wasn't suddenly 1996 and POOF! everybody is now using Active matrix LCDs in their laptops. they were still cost prohibitive and often optional in most cases, so there were a lot of laptops put into "circulation" that had relatively crappy passive matrix screens.

Hi All,

I RECENTLY dropped my Asus M51A, and when I restarted it, I GOT an "error loading operating system" message. I keep restarting it and get the same message (along with a brief, intermittent sound)

All of my files are on the C drive - stupid now I know - and I'm trying to FIGURE out how I can retrieve them first of all.

Secondly then, how I can get the laptop fully functioning again. I assume I'll need to wipe everything and reinstall, but don't know how and don't think I have any of the original CDs or anything. (I have downloaded winflash - not sure if this will help)

I'm by no means tech savvy so any advice in layman's terms would be appreciated!

Thanks

Andy Your laptop's hard drive has encountered a severe concussion from which no recovery is possible. Laptop may REMAIN a VEGETABLE for the rest of his life unless a brain transplant is performed.

Bought a used Compaq computer to try to get started with LINUX. 300MB cpu, 4gb hd. Computer had no mouse. Installed a mouse which had been working on another computer. Installation proceded normally. After BOOT up, mouse POINTER was dead center of the screen and wouldn't respond to movement of the mouse. Removed mouse software and installed a different mouse, this one RIGHT out of the box. Same result.USB or PS2 ? ?

If it's just under a Year i'd exercise the warranty IMMEDIATELY...

I have gateway mt3419 32bit LAPTOP. when I turn it on I get a blank screen.... Double CHECK all your CONNECTIONS...

Connect another MONITOR if available,,,this will tell you if it's the monitor or te MACHINE

I was working on my computer last night and therwe was power failure..

Since then it's dead...
I tried turning it on

the pc starts (gives display) and shows that it can detect Hard Disk and CD Rom and then shows a cursor and after that the screen goes BLACK !

I see that the key board still works(numberic lock) but it shows nothing...

I have some very , very important data on my PC?(F DRIVE) that I can't afford losing.

I tried installing windows..
it picks up the cd and then ask em to press a key to boot(when I press it says checking HARDWARE configuration and then goes black for good again)

I removed the hard disk and tried to boot from cd ROOM and it worked...that mean something is wrong with HD

Any help? PlzaQuote

I removed the hard disk and tried to boot from cd room and it worked...that mean something is wrong with HD

when using the computer i got an error message warning me windows had FUND a problem with a program reboot press f8 and go into safe mode.
When i tried to reboot nothing happened the BIOS doesn't start so unable to do ANYTHING with the computer.
The maainboard is GIGABYTE ga-k8n51gmf ive tried replacing the cmos battery but the computer is still dead.
Could any one PLEASE avise me on what the problem could be.
Thanks for any advice jhadd
Does the error crop up randomly or do a set of actions trigger it?Have you tried resetting CMOS with the jumper?
Could you download http://www.memtest.org/ and run it for 10 passes to make sure that your RAM is error-free?Its not my computer i was asked to look at it the information i got the computer gave an erroe message, ( an application as caused a problem reboot in safe mode )
When he tried to reboot nothing happens even this BIOS doesn't start to load so unable to carry out any checks.
Thanks for your reply jhaddOh you mean it won't even power up...
When you hit the power button are the fans running? Do the fans jolt, even for a second?
I guess you'll have to swap out components with a known working computer in ORDER to determine which one is the culprit...It powers up the fan runs the led lights are on it's the BIOS that doesn't start.There are many issues that could cause the motherboard to fail to POST... the most common of which in my experience is problems with the CPU. If you power on a working motherboard without a CPU the fans just keep running, the LEDs are on, nothing comes up on the screen.
The only sure way is to swap out all the parts for known working ones, though...Thanks for the help i'll try disconnecting all the hardware see if that helps thanks again jhadd

Hi,
recently I GOT the nv4_disp (short article about the problem) is causing a problem blue screen message. I tried everything thing that articles on the internet told me to do (installing new drivers, installing old drivers, completely removing drivers etc.) but nothing worked
Eventually I contacted XFX, they said
'''the memory-video RAM - on the vcard has corrupted, which sadly is something that cannot be repaired. Unfortunately the card is no longer in warranty anyway, so we cannot help with RMA / replacement in this case, but we would recommend trying to control the corruption by lowering the memory clock by a small amount - perhaps 30Mhz - 50mhz - and see if this helps get rid of the instability / artefacts on the screen. You can use the rivatuner program to do this kind regards, James.'''

So I'm planning on getting a new card because the idea above hasn't worked.
I have a budget of £100 (maybe £120 but thats only if it's necessary)
I found a ATI card and a Nvidia card both in my budget but I'm not sure which is better.
The article about choosing GRAPHIC cards on this site doesn't include these cards.
I'm thinking about getting the ATI card only because I am a bit annoyed that my Nvidia card broke.

Any ideas would be great thanksIf you're convinced you NEED a new card, the best you could get is the ATI 5770 for AROUND £110, or the Nvidia GTS250 for around £85. The 5750 is fairly weak, not really worth £100 IMO.
Neither is a significantly faster card than the 8800GTX you currently have, though.
Hope this helps.Quote from: Calum on April 30, 2010, 12:15:59 PM

If you're convinced you need a new card

By that do you mean there might be another way of fixing my card?

And, thanks for the information about the graphics card it was very helpful

recently, i upgraded my pc with some fancy new hardware. however, the dude that BUILT my pc said my dvd burner wouldn't be compatible with my new motherboard, so he installed some sort of IDE controller so it would be recognized and i wouldn't have to buy a new one. everything has been great with the new build except one thing... i can't burn anything with the drive. it reads discs fine, says it's working properly. i downloaded the latest firmware off samsung's website and it still won't work. i'm getting this message:

"burn process failed (logical unit is in process of becoming ready)"

please help. i've scoured the internet and i couldn't find an answer. i'd imagine it has something to do with the ide controller. i've also tried using different media and burn speeds to no avail.

my SPECS:

windows 7 32 bit
intel core i5
msi p67a-g43 motherboard
4 gb ram
nvidia geforce 550tiYeah you have an IDE DVD burner. Your motherboard has only SATA connections.
He probably installed something like this:


In order to connect your DVD burner to it.
A quick google search shows that such IDE cards, especially those with Promise and VIA controllers, do not work well with DVD drives.
Are there any specific drivers for your IDE controller available?
You COULD TRY getting an IDE to SATA connector (12 bucks) if everything fails.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232004
New 32X SATA DVD burners run about $18 on newegg.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289I would dump the card and old drive and just get a SATA DVD burner.Agreed....at tiger they start at 17.00

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=1624&name=Internal%20(SATA)


well, it seems like i have no alternative than to buy a new burner. thanks for HELPING and the timely replies! i'll be back if i ever need more advice! merry christmas.

Hi I have a Dell1720 that was on when I closed the lid and layed down my COFFEE table a BIT to hard I guess, when I opened it back up it was frozed so I held in the power button in to restart. It begins START-up and manages to make it to the Windows Error Recovery screen with 2 options normal start-up and Start-up Repair but both will just return me to the same screen. I figure its my HD but didn't know if it can be SAVE or at least maybe my data. BTW F2 and F12 boot still work on start-up. I tried to start up in safe mode but it just takes me to the same Error screen.Its Vista OS btwQuote

when I closed the lid and layed down my coffee table a bit to hard I guess

1 option:
Grab one of these...



2.5" Laptop to IDE converter...'bout 8 bucks.
This will enable you to hook up the drive to a working Desktop machine to retrieve your data...providing the drive still works...

I need some help with my laptop computer. It's a DELL using Windows 7, but it keeps going to sleep randomly. It goes to sleep anywhere from a range of 5 minutes to an hour and it happens without me shutting the lid. Help!!Go to start button >control panel>Power options>CHANGE when computer sleeps. Take a look at the settings. I've already looked at that and everything is on never, so the computer shouldn't sleep unless I press the button or close the laptop, but it still is sleeping at random times.
Evidently ACCORDING to this link, this problem has SURFACED a lot in Win 7 in various ways. . I have windows 7 and my problems is when I put it to sleep when I go to bed at night It just wakes up in the middle of the night. I am going to goggle and see if there is a way sleep function can be disabled. Sorry, hoping I could help.



http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/ar/w7itprogeneral/thread/e7cd513b-5ab6-4561-83eb-7455aa1f1948
Not sure if anyone has found a solution to this problem. If they have, hopefully they will post.
I thought this link was pretty good explaining what are some possible conditions that might cause the problem with the sleep issue and Win 7.



http://www.brighthub.com/computing/windows-platform/articles/53429.aspxOnly other thing you could test to see if it makes a difference is go back into where you change sleep options and check under advanced settings>sleep>allow hybrid sleep> change that to off and see what happens.

I've tried that and it still goes to sleep.http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-performance/computer-randomly-goes-into-sleep-mode-while/72872372-3252-425a-bcc6-de55ee89e181
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2749958?start=0&tstart=0
Are there any magnetic devices near your computer, e.g. magnetic bracelet, money clips? Many other users have had this problem, so I would really SEARCH the area for any magnets.
If you leave it on without using it, does it go to sleep?
If possible, can you identify or attempt to identify a series of actions that trigger the problem?
Are the intervals at which it goes to sleep totally random?

when starting up my comp light bar flashes across like night rider then SCREEN GOES blank takes ages for it to load
tried GOING back to earlier date SYSTEM restore but still no good
can someone help thank you i know naff all about compscmw,welcome to the CH forums. PLEASE read this "Please read this first ". It is the 1st item in the "hardware" CH forum.truenorth

I would like to upgrade to a larger monitor for my computer but have no idea how to go about it. I currently am using a 17" ViewSonic Flat Panel Monitor (LCD Display), 1280x1024 black, Model #VA712b with 8ms Video Responce! I have NEVER purchased a monitor before and need as much help as I can get to make it easier. There's nothing wrong with my 17" but I'd really like a 19" or even a 20" just to make it easier on my eyes. I use my computer for email and I also watch DVDs on my DVD player and play music on the CD player. So I don't want a monitor that is too large to read my emails but one that would make watching my DVDs a larger, more enjoyable experience. Here are my system REQUIREMENTS: I use Windows XP Pro SP3, Intel PENTIUM 3, 27 gb hard drive, 384 mb RAM, Video card is a ATI Radeon 7200 with 64mb RAM, Sound Blaster audio, DVD-Rom, CD burner, 10/100 network card, and US Robotics v90 56k modem. Sorry if this is too much info but I feel it's better than leaving something out. I would greatly appreciate all advice on what kind of monitor I should LOOK for because there are so many different kinds on the market and I don't want to make a mistake.
Thank you for your help!!
jandalA lot of your desicion making will really come down to personal choice as there are so many manufacturers and models to choose from but you can start to trim down your list by thinking about and researching the following;
First, knowing what resolution you want use and then know that the monitor you buy is capable of this resolution.
Second, do some online research (newegg, amazon, tigerdirect...walmart even!) for pricing, specs and read reviews from buyers. You'll learn a lot about what to avoid and what sound good to you.
Third, go shopping. Take a look at monitors in stores and ask to see them in different resolutions. You will see that cheaper monitors distort more when using non-native settings that a more expensive model, especially if you choose a 'widescreen' model. Look at the colors and don't be afraid to adjust them yourself.
One other aspect that you might want to consider before spending your money on a monitor upgrade, is your current configuration. Although it is more than capable of covering your present needs, its not really tailored to todays technology nor current media standards. This presents a whole new question which I won't go into here but I think it's only right to bring this up at this point before you SPEND money in an area that perhaps is better spent on other hardware. Your call though.
Thanks so much for your advice, Sodde! I had no idea upgrading to a larger monitor would be so involved! I'll definitely have to check out what my current configuration is and know what resolution I want to use, then make certain that whatever monitor I purchase can handle that particular resolution. I simply assumed I could just go out and purchase a new monitor and it would be easy. I realize there are many different monitors on the market. I'll do some research as you suggest and perhaps talk to some friends. Then read LOTS of product reviews online and then go shopping and talk to some technicians and see what they recommend. At least for now my 17" is working great. Sounds like it might even be cheaper to buy a DVD player and have that installed if I want to see a larger, clearer picture. I thank you again for your advice. Have a great weekend.

jandalIt appears that your primary reason for desiring a change of the monitor is for more enjoyable DVD viewing. Presuming that somewhere in your habitat you have a TV capable of standalone DVD video/audio input. I believe the least expensive way to achieve that objective is to buy a stand alone DVD player(they are very INEXPENSIVE) and watch your DVDs on that. Most people own TVs with larger screens than computer monitors. Stay with what you have for the email aspect of things.Unless your objectives are greater than stated i believe that to be your best solution.truenorthYour monitor is very good for your works. not need a new one. I think you should do your computer upgrade Ex: Ram & Hard Drive

Hi:
I'm going to install a MSI 785GTM MB. The MB has a 24 pin AND a 4 pin CPU power socket. If my power SUPPLY has both a 24 pin AND a 4 pin PLUG am I SUPPOSED to USE both plugs. Somehow I thought I should only use the 24 pin plug.
Thanks.
Use both.Thanks...Welcome Aboard ! !

Quote from: Allan on April 10, 2010, 02:37:26 PM

It was intended as HYPERBOLE BC - Wow - can't get anything past you

magnets don't affect hard drives.

Just ignore that remark.

I'll have to ask the in-laws what they want to do. I'll also have to compare the price of a new HDD as to the cost of SpinRite (first time purchasers = $89).

...Any manufacturer that would be better than others?

Agreed,
You would need an electro-magnet or a rare earth magnet to affect the contents of a HDD....

Are we talking about running a magnet directly across the hard drive platters, or merely setting a magnet on top of the protective casing ?

Since running a magnet across the platters directly would entail disassembly of the drive and therefore make the drive pretty much completely unreliable it stands to reason how such a method would be a good way of wiping a drive that one intended to use.

I believe it's relative. Some drives, from what I gather will still work after the protective casing is removed

So, 2 days ago, my girlfriend and I moved into our own apartment. The night before we moved, I was using my computer and everything was fine. The next day, I took it all down and packed it up like I've done many times before. I put the TOWER on the floor of the back seat of my car. Last night, I attempted to set everything up in the new place, but I wasn't getting a picture on my monitor; the light was staying orange.

I tried everything, including: Using the VGA cable on another device (worked), replacing the DCIM-to-VGA CONVERTER (didn't HELP), switching back to my old video card (still no signal), using my monitor on her laptop (works fine), and nothing has helped at all.

I have a Dell XPS 410 with Win XP. My current video card is a PNY 9800 GT 1024mb.

My only guess is that this is a motherboard problem, and I'm probably going to be better off buying a new computer.

Any opinions? Because I'm stumped.Quote from: ryan.strain on December 24, 2011, 10:18:32 AM

I put the tower on the floor of the back seat of my car.

Yeah, everything is connected properly. My computer is almost 6 years old, so I guess its played it course.

Dell Studio XPS 435MT i7-920 6GB VISTA 64bit

This happens after a while, never early.

I am either listening to youtube videos or playing games and suddenly I can hear crackling in the speakers where the sound gets fuzzy. Later (~10mins) the screen and mouse pointer has these jumps and everything starts becoming crackly and freezing. And finally the whole computer freezes and doesn't respond, only way to fix it is to restart.

It's like a slow death and when I get these symptoms I save everything and restart.

My computer is relatively new, what's causing this?If interference is manifesting itself... It may possibly be your power supply. I can recount a similar incident I experienced with an underpowered computer crashing at random intervals.Quote from: Asadinator on December 16, 2011, 04:05:53 PM

Dell Studio XPS 435MT i7-920 6GB Vista 64bit

This happens after a while, never early.

I am either listening to youtube videos or playing games and suddenly I can hear crackling in the speakers where the sound gets fuzzy. Later (~10mins) the screen and mouse pointer has these jumps and everything starts becoming crackly and freezing. And finally the whole computer freezes and doesn't respond, only way to fix it is to restart.

It's like a slow death and when I get these symptoms I save everything and restart.

My computer is relatively new, what's causing this?

I am using my LG W2243 monitor, which is connected to the VGA port of my new Laptop. When dark images are shown on the screen, very faint scrolling "lines" are seen. These lines are not seen on the Laptop screen - nor were they when the screen was plugged into my old computer this morning.

The refresh rate is 60hz.
The resolution is 1920x1080.
The colour is 32bits.

Any help is appreciated.Is there a driver available for the LG and if so did you install it?Yes, Windows is using the LG W2243(Analogue) driver.It could be interference or noise caused by low voltage or even the wireless adaptor in the laptop.
Try eliminating these possibilities and any other possible causes (microwaves, cordless phones etc) before looking deeper into a possible computer problem.

Try using the set up in a different area and use a different wall OUTLET. Do you have a wall socket tester?

Is the laptop using battery power with you have the problem with the battery?Unplugging the power supply from the Laptop solves the problem.

Although, I need to have this plugged in so that I can use the laptop as my main computer.

Any tips?It could still be a wall socket problem. This sort of thing can be related to bad earthing or possibly brown-out conditions.
try using separate outlets for the monitor and the laptop, you may be overloading a particular socket.

You may want to test the laptop power supply too.


The power supply is plugged into an extension lead which is plugged into a wall socket.

The monitor is plugged directly into a different wall socket - although only 2-3 metres (4-5 feet) away from the wall socket which the extension lead is plugged into.

I HOPE that isn't confusing, I have also prepared a paint diagram:



[recovering DISK space - old attachment deleted by admin]unplug your extension from the wall and plug the laptop ac adaptor into the wall socket and see what happens.I've worked out that it is the proximity of the power supply (including cables) to the screen. I tried plugging the power supply into an extension cable which went downstairs - but this had little to no effect.

The current power supply is just ONE which came with the laptop. Would a more expensive / different power supply help?You haven't really eliminated any of the possibilities yet.

I think you should go back and check/test the things I SUGGESTED. You've found the cause of the lines on your screen but you need to find what it the cause of the interference between the power supply and the monitor.

Borrow a known good PSU and swap it in there...if anyone runs into this problem where your computer boots up and doesnt' show and image and doesnt beep its your motherboard.Quote from: superman54 on APRIL 30, 2010, 12:35:42 PM

if anyone runs into this problem where your computer boots up and doesnt' show and image and doesnt beep its your motherboard.

if anyone runs into this problem where your computer boots up and doesnt' show and image and doesnt beep its your motherboard.

if anyone runs into this problem where your computer boots up and doesnt' show and image and doesnt beep its your motherboard.

hi,

I've recently run into DIFFICULTIES with my 1TB samsung F1 spinpoint harddrive...again
in January the partion table wiped itself and i was able to recover the partition (THANKS to this FORUM )and the harddrive worked fine.

Last week though the harddrive became corrupt and was in RAW FORMAT. i recovered the data but found it was reading at 7-8MB a second. and i thought at the time this was because of it being corrupt. (before the corruption the read/write SPEEDS were fine)

After recovering and formating the harddrive the read/write speeds haven't improved.

Are these signs the harddrive is dieing/near dead or could this be fixable in some way?

Computer Specs:
AMD Athlon x64 dual core 4800+ 2.51GHz
2GB of RAM
1x 250GB Hitachi sata harddrive <<< OS installed here
1x 1TB Samsung sata F1 drive <<<1x 1.5 WD sata green drive

ask if any more information is needed Test hard drive with Samsung diagnostics.
http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287#samsung