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I am running a HP pavilion Entertainment PC with Windows 7. I am trying to set up my 5.1 surround sound speakers to it. I purchased an external sound card (Live! USB Sound Blaster) and set up all my speakers. When I configured the speakers in "playback DEVICES" all the speakers worked perfectly fine (I heard all the sounds from each speaker); however, when I try to play music it only plays from the Front L and R speakers. What am I doing wrong?If you go to playback devices>speakers>properties>enhancements tab do you have an option for "speaker fill" ?I just SELECTED speaker fill and it didn't helpanymore ideas? I spend hours setting up my speakers...and it SUCKS knowing they work, but there must be some stupid SWITCH to flip What SB card is this ? ?ya know, I had my friends in my room to show them how it works but doesn't work, and what do you know. It works! of course things magically fix themselves when there is an audience.

thanks for the help. I'll be back if the problem returns.

dida, Your last post is somewhat confusing. You say "ONLY jack that works is the one in a single row of jacks on the back. " I haven't yet seen your "picture". However unless you have a "surround sound" (multiple output jacks for VARIOUS speakers) you should have ONLY ONE that works for your computer speakers. Why are you expecting more than one to be needed for your speakers? Am i missing something here? truenorth
If you have an Audigy card, but you're seeing two green plugs on the back, it sounds like quite possibly you have on-board sound on your computer as well.

Here's what you need to check:
1. Check that on-board sound is disabled in the BIOS. If you have an Audigy card, disabling on-board will prevent Windows from seeing and choosing to use the on-board over the Audigy.

2. Once you've disabled the on-board, verify that the Audigy is correctly installed in the device manager. You might go a step further and take this opportunity to update your audio drivers from Creative. Also check that is the default device in the control panel (Control Panel -> Sounds and Audio Devices -> Audio tab -> Sound playback).

3. Check that your speakers are plugged into the correct audio jacks on the back. If you've plugged into the on-board instead of the Audigy, it won't work. The on-board audio jacks will be next to the other ports on the back of the computer (COM, LPT, USBs, etc.). (See picture below.)

4. Once you've verified that everything is installed properly or disabled if necessary, open the SoundBlaster speaker setup and verify that it is set to match your speaker setup (2/2.1, 4/4.1, 5.1, 7.1, etc.).

5. Check that none of the audio channels are MUTED (except maybe the microphone) and that their volume levels are set APPROPRIATELY.

[attachment deleted by admin]just try to modify the master volume to by using advanced function..........











i got the same problem with my microphone and which is now fixed.............................
THANK you all for your help!

From that picture you took, as well as settings in the Device Manager, I can see that that is exactly what is wrong. I DO have both onboard AND the SB Card in my computer, both are enabled. I tried to disable the onboard through just the device manager (chose to Not Use, or whatever the selection is called) but that did not work, so I expect disabling in the BIOS must be the only way that will in fact work?

I can plug into my soundcard, and just use it that way, or is disabling the onboard sound through the BIOS easy?? I'm guessing that since I really don't know what I'm doing, I should probably just leave it alone...

Thanks for everyone's help!! I truly appreciate it!


DidaIt's pretty easy to do, it's just a matter of finding it in the BIOS settings, which varies from board to board. Usually it's under something like 'on-board devices', and will list things like the on-board sound, network, video, and any other on-board devices your motherboard has, usually with the option of either 'enable' or 'disable'.

Just browse through all the menu options and you should find it. If you change something that you didn't mean to or think you screwed something up, just exit the BIOS and choose not to save changes, then when it restarts find it again. It's actually really easy.

With it disabled, Windows should think the device no longer exists and shouldn't choose it anymore, therefore defaulting to the only available one, your Audigy card.

I have 2 1-TB WD external drives. I have never had a problem with either of them before. Now, at boot-up time, the sequence hangs at identifying USB mass storage devices. The boot will recognize one, or either, of them, and I can then add them as additional drives when Windows XP loads, but I can't get beyone the USB mass storage recognition when I boot up. I have also received the following error at boot time: "Overclock failed or overvoltage failed." I checked the BIOS setup and the power is set at auto and I have never monkeyed with any of these settings so as to constitute a deviation from "Auto." Everything worked fine until just now. I have an ASUS P5WD2 motherboard with an AMI Bios. Any help would be appreciated.This may or may not help but have you tried resetting the BIOS to default settings.What changed between the last time the drives were recognized at boot and the first time they weren't (did you add any new sw or hw or change any hw settings)?Quote from: oldiesman100 on September 16, 2009, 04:07:00 PM

I have 2 1-TB WD external drives...

i went and bought a SONY accucore bd-r, but my sony vaio vgn-ar730e laptop isn't even recognizing it as a disc. so, i tried burning some files on a cd and it worked fine. so my question is why is my sony computer not reading sony discs? drivers are up to date.That's because those are BLUE-Ray discs...and can only be read by a Blue-Ray player.it has blue ray, that's why i'm asking.What app are you trying to burn blu-ray's with ? ?stivo, are you putting blank bd-rs into your laptop Bluray ROM and DVD+/-RW drive? If so, what do you expect to happen?
i'm USING nero7, and yes it's a blank bd-r, i need it to back up a game, which according to nero requires a bd-r. i was thinking maybe the PROGRAM, but my computer isn't recognizing it as being a disc at all. i had trouble with some accucore cd-r's too AWHILE back. It appears to be a Blu-Ray reader not a Blu-Ray writer.
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665291456#specificationsThought so...oh..heh....that makes sense. thanks, guess i shoulda tried that, but i thought it was equipped.No problem...there are external ones but until they get real with pricing i'd hold off...

I have a fairly standard Systemax SVX Venture Mini-Tower PC.

I have standard VHS CASSETTE home recordings from an OLDER camera, which I wish to PROVIDE to my PC on a standard RCA video phono plug, to allow me to burn DVD discs of the old family VHS material.

Where can I plug this video into my PC? Or what interface box or cable do I need? I know where to plug the audio, after converting to an 1/8 inch mini plug. I've carefully studied all the connectors on the rear of the tower and nothing seems obvious.

ArtYou need a video capture card, which you obviously don't have. If you have an available PCI slot, here is one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815116021&cm_re=video_capture_card-_-15-116-021-_-ProductThanks for your information. Went searching for about an hour, and also FOUND this device.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3504456&sku=M501-1326

Your opinion please?Looks good to me, as long as your computer meets the minimum system requirements listed.

sir, i would LIKE to ask how can i fix this epson lx300+ II printer. when i TURN it on is has a 5 beeps and the printer HEAD didn't initialized. What i had observed with this before is that when i turn it on the head moves from left to right and vice versa. but this, it didn't move and after the 5 beeps the led flashes.printers...like computers....do a self check when they are turned on. Part of this is to check the MOTORS and small PAPER sensors. It sounds to me like one of the sensors is covered or burnt out.

I would try to open it up and spray air around the paper path ares to try to clear the sensor. If that doesn't work then go to Epson and see the error codes.

Now a days printers are not made to be fixed. They are made to be replaced.

Good luck......

Actually, the charge is not per download, but for a membership that allows access to downloads.Sometimes , when you can't get a program to download ,.....sfc /scannow works wonders.

You will need your XP disk if files are required,

Read up on the procedure here....

http://www.updatexp.com/scannow-sfc.html

Afterwards, attempt the download.How did you know I wear glasses?

Now I'm getting hung up on the registration page. I type in the two words in the box and submit...and promptly (and repeatedly) get "IE can not display the web page," and also that "IE can not open the site."

Is there a setting that I need to change, or do I just keep trying?

Thanks again...and again...

KaligoWell, I finally made it through all the "offers," and decided to download the "Toolkit." Once that's done, I intend to get my printer up and...if not running, at least moving at a HEALTHY trot.

Thanks everyone!

KaligoNever pay for drivers...Well, I just HIT another roadblock! In my attempt to "install and update all drivers" (I clicked specifically on the one for my printer), I am once again, led to a page that tells me I have to pay.

So much for following 3 EASY steps.

I realize this sounds pretty general, but can anyone suggest to me what on Earth I am doing wrong? I've spent far too much time on this already, and still have zero to show for it.

Thanks again....

Kaligo
Did you perform the search for hpzimc09.dll as stated in Step #1 below?
Forget downloading until you answer this QUESTION.

Method 5

1. Search for hpzimc09.dll. If you do not have this file, you may download hpzimc09.dll online.
2. Copy the file to C:\WINDOWS\system32.
3. Go to Start and then proceed to Run.
4. Enter regsvr32 hpzimc09.dll to register the file.
5. To unregister the file, type in regsvr32 -u hpzimc09.dll.
I did a search before I ever saw instructions to do so. It made sense. My concern is that no site offering that file can guarantee that it is uninfected. Can you suggest a reliable site?

Thanks!

KaligoSince you refuse to answer the question asked, the only recommendation I can make is to discard the printer and buy a new one.I did do a search for the file, and it is not on my computer.C2 - It makes no sense that I would come to this site for help, and then "refuse" to answer a question that might make the process easier. My sole intention was/is to get help from those who know more about this stuff than me. That I missed something only means I missed something; nothing more.

I pose my most RECENT question once more for anyone to answer; Is there a reputable site where I can safely download the hpzimc.09.dll file?

Thank you,

KaligoSure...Clik Here.

Hey GUYS,

I recently got myself a new motherboard and a new chassis, so I need to put all my hardware from my old PC into the new one. Now I stumbled upon a problem. My CPU fan needs to be attached to a PLASTIC cross which is GLUED onto the back of my old motherboard. And I cant get it off! Its stuck and the only way i might possibly get it off is by using a screwdriver and force. Which might also break it.. I really need to get it off or i wont be able to put my CPU fan in PLACE. The old motherboard came with the PC so i didn't put it in myself. Is there any way to get it off?
I looked on the internet and all i could find was CPU fans which were attached to the mobo simply by pushing it down and turn something a little. But mine is attached with screws.
Please guys?

Thanks in advance!We need to know which MBoard/CPU combo this is...Unfortunately i dont know that The CPU fan came with the CPU itself (q6600)
Apparently the THING i need to get off is called a mounting bracket, but again, its attached to the back of the mobo with glue.The Q6600 hCPU cooler is held down with 4 plastic thumbscrews...they rotate 1/4 turn to fasten and un-fasten...Nah its not one like that
It looks very much like this one except for its plastic:

http://www.cpu-cooler-upgrade.co.uk/images/mounting-bracket-rear.jpg

Thanks for your replies btw

EDIT: and is doesn't have anything on the frontside of the motherboardThat's a backplate. It's peel & stick. You should be able to find it somewhere.

http://www.avadirect.com/product_details_parts.asp?PRID=13252Ya thats it. Ill just pull it off with force and stick it on the new mobo somehow.
Thanks FYI The stock cooler that ships with a Q6600 is more than adequate...my CPU temps rarely go above 39C even using AutoCad...

Sometimes when I move the mouse on my laptop the screen gets bigger almost as though I held CTRL-shift-+ keys if I hit ctrl- it returns to smaller size. It almost seems as though there are sticky keys being hit. It is driving me crazy, not a long trip. Does anyone else experience this or know of a fix?
thanksHave you gone into Control Panel/Accessibility & checked to see if Sticky Keys is unchecked?

Alan <>< OK nothing there but i did find something in the mouse set up it LOOKS like it only is on the Dell MACHINES there is an AREA on the left of the screen that when the mouse passes over it will SHRINK or grow the screen. I unchecked it and all seems well thanks for pointing me in right direction
You are most welcome. Glad I was able to help.

Alan <><

Please help, my NEW battery left charging over night as directed, icon indicated charged to 100%, but only lasted for about 3 minutes and was fully discharged. I have read several forums and have tried the charging procedure 3 times now and still the discharges with in 3 minutes.

I am using a TOSHIBA Satellite Pro A120 with Vista Business.

Any help would be gratefully received.New=RETURN for refund or replacement ASAP.truenorthHi

Thanks for your REPLY, but this is the 2nd new battery in a week!!!!!It might be the charger, not the battery, that has the problem. You may want to have your charger inspected or serviced.Quote from: jeg1961 on June 16, 2011, 12:23:17 PM

... but this is the 2nd new battery in a week!!!!!

Hello.

I am thinking of selling my computer but I need a guidline as to how much for.

Its is a packard bell 2002 edition.
Windows xp service pack 2.
home edition.
intel(R) PENTIUM 4CPU 2.50GHz
2.49 GHz,1.25GB or RAM.

Thanks for any help Maybe a HUNDRED bucks...How much is that, £50? Is that all Probably...
It's almost 8 YEARS old.Agreed.

We can GET NEW desktop computers from $275 US on up.

Hello all, and let me thank you in advance for reading this... I'd appreciate all the help I COULD get!

This was my first time putting together a rig. Being pretty familiar and having exchanged parts before, I felt confident enough to put together one from scratch. Everything (except the case, which was in pretty good condition except some scratches) was brand new. And everything worked great from the first boot up - I got windows 7 installed, etc, no problem.

However, when I went to restart after installing some drivers, it did shut down the system and STARTED back up... but it didn't boot up at all. The motherboard never makes beeps, and this time was no different... but the motherboard green light was on. All the fans and LEDs were on, but the LED on my monitor was orange as if it were on standby. Couldn't get to the bios or anything. I reset and shut down the computer twice each and still nothing. After going back in and making sure everything was still connected properly. Everything seemed OK, but I switched the two sticks of ram into the 1st and 2nd, instead of the 3rd and 4th, just in case. Everything PLUGGED in, it booted up great once more great! However, this time I needed to reboot again after I installed AVG and it happened once more, exactly the same thing!! I once again CHECKED all the power connections and everything was peachy. I unhitched the CPU fan to take it off, but then I thought better of it since I don't have any thermal paste so I hitched it back on and left it be. I left the RAM alone as well, and tried to boot it up. It booted up fine again! It seemed so odd that whenever I took the case off and PLAYED inside a bit... it would "magically work" again.

I then downloaded a CPU temp monitor - which confused me as well. It had "temp1", "temp2", "temp3", and "core". Everything was running at 35º-40º, except temp3 was a BURNING 115º!!! I explained the situation to my wife before I went to work and basically told her to keep an eye on it, because I thought this may be inaccurate. She kept it on for 8 hours straight, and even played some games on it for a few hours. Nothing funky happened. If anything in the system was overheating, wouldn't it shut down? The bios reported the CPU at a cool temperature as well. I'm not sure what "temp3" could even be. I do see 3 heatsinks besides the CPU heatsink - could one of those be "temp3"? And even so, could this be the problem?


Right now I'm at a loss, and frankly paranoid about rebooting! Any ideas of what could be wrong? I am using:
Windows 7 64-bit
AMD Phenom II X2 550
2x ADATA 2GB DDR3 1333MHZ (4 GB total)
Integrated sound and video card
Mobo is an ECS A790GXM-AD3 (AM3 socket)
450W Corsair ATX PCI-E Powersupply
Seagate Cuda7200 1TB 7200RPM, 32MB, Sata 3.0GB


Thank you in advance for any information.Quick addition/update: I shut it off last night, and my wife turned it on this morning. She reported it didn't boot up, as per usual, but she didn't open the case or anything. She switched the power off and on from the back of the power supply, then hit the power button at the front of the case. Computer started up and ran perfect. The computer has been running all day fine without a hitch, once again. Still, it's been happening every time we reboot!

I recently BOUGHT a laptop from cyberpower pc uk :
http://www.cyberpowersystem.co.uk/system/Xplorer_X6-9500_Notebook/
with the i7-2720 processor and an OCZ vertex 3 SSD (http://www.scan.co.uk/products/240gb-ocz-technology-vertex-3-25-sata-6gb-s-sandforce-ssd-read-550mb-s-write-520mb-s-60k-iops)

The laptop runs perfectly fine, i get very good performance with GAMES and general applications.
the problem comes when I plug the power adaptor in. whether the laptop is on at the time or not, the charger will cut power off in the house. sometimes this can be as soon as i plug the adaptor into the laptop or a few MINUTES later.

any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated.If nothing else is tripping the power then it sounds like the power adapter is faulty and is blowing a fuse or tripping one of your house circuit breakers. You have not said if it is an overcurrent breaker or an earth leakage breaker (RLCB) or a re-wireable fuse. Or what you do to bring the power BACK on. If it is still under warranty get it replaced. If the replacement does it, get a certified electrician to CHECK your house wiring and breakers.
the working days of Cyberpower are Mon-Fri, i am going to have it sent back and have a replacement issued.
thank you for you advice I will keep this post updated

Currently I am running windows 2000 on my computer, recently I tried installing windows xp and reformating to NTFS hard drive. My first problem was with windows xp, it would go to the xp loading screen, but not to the login stage, the screen would just go blank. I couldn't figure why so I tried going back to windows 2000 because I need my computer whether up to date or not. Well, that came up up with the message: "pease reinstall file ntoskrnl" I MADE an emergency repair disk about FOUR times after changing from xp to2000, before you know it I reformat back to Fat32 and it works! My problem is that a few days ago I installed windows 2000 express for service pack 4 or something similar,and it didn't work again. I get a fuzzy screen after the start up loading screen. Please help me I have been having one problem after another for months, I need helpwith any of those problems. I am running my computer with a nvidia gforce 5600 fx, my computer does run in safe modeand can anybody tell me what VGA mode is? 2 20G harddrives and it is an old IBM thx:) Oh and I run on windows 2000 5.00.2195 service pack 4 whatever that is. Also, oddly there have been over 100 updates lately installed... Don't know if that mean anything...I have seen this problem once or twice on older computers. WinXP sometimes has troubles finding the proper video drivers and is unable to use the generic VGA driver (640x480).

If you are currently able to run in Safe Mode with WinXP. you will need to download the drivers for the Gforce 5600FX and install them.

The message, "please reinstall file ntoskrnl" indicates you may have attempted to upgrade rather then perform a clean install.

What's installed right now, Win2k or WinXP, or both?Did you wipe the drive and partitions in this process ? ?
It doesn't sound like it...Quote from: Businessman101 on September 16, 2009, 05:35:26 PM

Oh and I run on windows 2000 5.00.2195 service pack 4 whatever that is. Also, oddly there have been over 100 updates lately installed... Don't know if that mean anything...

hey not quite sure what kind of cd rom drive i have but when i open the cdrom/dvd drives portion of the device manager it says dvd/cd rom drives next to "type" and below that it says (standard cd rom drives) next to "manufacturer". im running windows 7 64 bit
over the last couple days i have not been able to burn cd's. i use windows media player to burn (always have, never had any problems til now), it would appear to be burning the cd but when it reached 100 percent the cd-r would eject and wmp would give me a message saying that it couldnt be BURNED. that was happening yesterday and before, now whenever i instert a cd-r i cant even get the drive to read it. it always says there isnt a disc inserted. i put a dvd in it earlier to see if it would read and it read the dvd no problem. i read on a post from about a year ago where someone said something that it might be a hardware issue, not software or driver issue. if that is the case, can the drive be repaired or is it best to buy a new one??Try this: open up device manger, expand DVD/CD-ROM drives, right click on your drive and select PROPERTIES, Drivers tab, click Uninstall. This will remove your optical drive, don't freak out . Now restart your computer and let it detect the optical drive. It should automatically install it again. Try out and see if the disc GETS recognized.Try using another free burning software.

http://www.imgburn.com/index.php?act=download
http://www.nero.com/eng/index.htmlQuote from: matt_stan40 on June 17, 2011, 12:04:50 AM

hey not quite sure what kind of cd rom drive i have but when i open the cdrom/dvd drives portion of the device manager it says dvd/cd rom drives next to "type" and below that it says (standard cd rom drives) next to "manufacturer". im running windows 7 64 bit
over the last couple days i have not been able to burn cd's. i use windows media player to burn (always have, never had any problems til now), it would appear to be burning the cd but when it reached 100 percent the cd-r would eject and wmp would give me a message saying that it couldnt be burned. that was happening yesterday and before, now whenever i instert a cd-r i cant even get the drive to read it. it always says there isnt a disc inserted. i put a dvd in it earlier to see if it would read and it read the dvd no problem. i read on a post from about a year ago where someone said something that it might be a hardware issue, not software or driver issue. if that is the case, can the drive be repaired or is it best to buy a new one??

• DVD write laser failed: you can read DVDs but not write them.
• DVD read laser failed: you can neither read nor write DVDs.
• CD write laser failed: you can read CDs but not write them.
• CD read laser failed: you can neither read nor write CDs.

Try this: open up device manger, expand DVD/CD-ROM drives, right click on your drive and select properties, Drivers tab, click Uninstall. This will remove your optical drive, don't freak out . Now restart your computer and let it detect the optical drive. It should automatically install it again. Try out and see if the disc gets recognized.

DVD burners have two lasers- one for CD R/W and one for DVD R/W.

The only difference between Reading and writing is the power. CD and DVD however use different wavelengths (780nm laser for CD, 650nm for DVD).

yep tried that. it uninstalled successfully and was detected and reinstalled successfully. still no luck though. i just tried insterting a blank cd-r again and this time the drive made a weird noise i never heard before with any other discs. it was sorta like a dull thud noise.....if that makes any sense

Likes like something mechanical has failed. Does it read any CD or DVDs, not being writable, by any chance?

My computer frequently(~every 3-4 hours) freezes and I don't know which part of hardware is CAUSING the problem.

This happens no matter what I am doing; When I am gaming, the computer randomly freezes without any prior symptoms(no visual delay, no lag, nothing) and suddenly just freezes up(can't alt+f4 or ctrl+alt+dlt) and the game sound very rapidly repeats a short track. Even when I am surfing the web, the computer randomly locks up and won't eat any commands(mouse too, locks up) and lastly, even when I am idle(turn on the computer, take a shower/eat, come back 5-10 minutes after turning on) I come back to find the computer frozen.

I was hoping one of you had some way to pinpoint the most likely candidate for causing this problem. It seems to me like a hardware problem SINCE I already tried format+reinstall and the same exact problem PERSISTS. I do not believe it has anything to do with overheating since the turn on-to-freeze time seems very random(occasionally it will freeze 3-4 minutes after being TURNED on, with no action taken; idle).

I don't know if this is related, but my graphics card(ATI Radeon HD 4550) sometimes "crashes," meaning that the screen goes pitch black for good 5 seconds, I get a warning that I have to close down the Catalyst center in order to keep working, and after that I can't perform any action(games or viewing some videos) involving the use of directX or some such(I do get to do everything else IE web surfing and word processing, etc).

Thank you in advance.Have you done some simple tests?
Here is one you can do without even opening the case.
Get a big fan used for cooling down people in a room.
Put it behind the tower and let it blow over the read vent holes.
If the computer now stays on for over half ans hour you can suppose that there is a heat problem. Maybe the graphics card.

Hi im looking for a computer to PLAY videos on. What are the minimum specs to play videos comfortably

thanksToday's computer systems are all capable of playing videos. I cannot say what the minimum specs are (maybe another user may know) but you shouldn't have to worry about that. Its really depends on your spending budget, and how you plan to use your computer.

You NEED to be a little more specific when you say you want a computer to play videos on. As hedgehog SAID almost all computers for years now can play DVDS. If you want to watch online videos, your ISPs speed will be the main limiting factor.I'm looking at getting a secoundhand laptop and playing videos offline on it.Laptops made even years ago can play good quality video. Most of the time the issue is the software used. Back when Microsoft released Windows 95 it came with a sample video clip that was good quality at that time. Since then, both hardware and software have improved.Test the laptop's video output or display resolution before purchasing one and make sure it has a DVD player/writer for another mode of watching movies aside from saved avi FILES. Look for something that suits your visual preferences.

Hi problem is how to connect 2 desktops sound cards to one set of EXTERNAL speakers , I have KVM switch for mouse , monitor and keyboard but no IDEA how get sound out from both of the PCs to speakers .

It shouldn't be too difficult to veld such box with 2 inputs and switch and short cable to speakers , but can't find anything readymade .

Thanks for your help

jvt40You can make it yourself. It is just a DPDT slide switch.
Ready MADE is kind priceyu for something so simple.
You only need to switch the "hot" leads, not the GROUND wires.

The MODEL of fan I have now is ADDA, model number AD0812ms-d70. I sprayed it with some WD40 and got it moving again, but it is still not running smooth. I want to try a different brand because this one has been making noise for over a year now and I finally have some free time to replace it. I think the dimensions and fan speed are all I have to be concerned with but, I'm afraid I'll order something that doesn't work or fit. Could someone help me find a replacement ONLINE to order?I checked out the model you have and its an 80x80x25mm size. There are definitely fans of that size, and of all sorts of speed, CFM etc. Can you PRETTY buy anyone, just be AWARE of the connector and header as the ones for sale are 3 pins. Your stock one isn't the greatest so whatever you buy will probably be superior. The fan speed is determined by the PSU so you won't have to worry about that.

That being said, I think you're more than capable in finding a replacement on your own. If there's a local COMPUTER store around bring it in and they can recommend you one, if they carry that size of course.An unplugged PSU carries enough of a jolt to stop a Human heart...you would be better off simply replacing the PSU.

My screen is randoming glitching the screen flickers randomly, also i'm getting weird screen glitches as shown in the video its completely random i am not sure what causes it. it just started happening and it won't stop

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/unledzti.jpg/also my graphics card is a nvidia 8800 gt

Could this be a faulty graphics card?What kind of monitor do you have? CRT or LCD?Quote from: hedgehog88 on June 18, 2011, 11:08:56 PM

What kind of monitor do you have? CRT or LCD?

PS shameless touting in your sig for thanks clicks is kind of tacky. You'll get the thanks you deserve for the posts you make that are actually helpful.

My screen is randoming glitching the screen flickers randomly, also i'm getting weird screen glitches as shown in the video its completely random i am not sure what causes it. it just started happening and it won't stop.

I'm not really sure whether I should help,since I'd hate to take away another well deserved and encouraged "thanks" for hedgehog88, but try Updating Java.

No way will you run it on a 350w psu. Its actually really easy to use 2 power supplies, it just looks BAD. I would recommend to just get a new one thats around 500-600w. Dont get a really cheap $20 one either. The only reason I have a 1kw psu is because it was on sale for around the same price as a 750.Alright, I'll try rigging up an adapter for my 500W PSU (80$ Modular power supply ). Thanks for all your help.Somewhat true. A crappy low amp 600w psu wont be able to power a gpu with a lower power requirement like 500w. But still, a 350w with tons of amps still wont be able to power a gpu with a power requirement of like 500w. Anyways 350w psus dont have many amps to begin with. The only ones with 20 amps are around $150 anyways. You could buy a 1000w for the same priceQuote from: broque on September 15, 2009, 06:00:14 PM

It's not the volts (watts) It's the amps

And why do you need to rig up an adapter...

Sadly, my local computer store doesn't have any adapters, and buying from Newegg will result in a shipping cost exceeding the cost of the actual part.

I read here that you can just plug in a 20pin connector into a 24pin motherboard and it should work as long as you don't pull too much wattage from the motherboard. Any opinions on that? I'm considering doing that since I don't feel like spending 10 dollars on an adapter, and I can't find any female Molex connectors to make an adapter with.

I turned off a Proxy Server (Windows XP)
FRIDAY and turned on MONDAY and the error that I have received was " cannot find logical drives" what would have caused that?

seeing that the machine was off and I turned it on the next morn.

What I need is the cause as I have to give a report. What could cause this and if yu have a solution please I need it how to REPAIRE the Logical drive

Windows is ATTEMPTING to boot and I thank for the quick RESPONSE. Please also tell me the cause if the errors did came up during the POST. ( I was not present when error came up and I have to give a report as I was the last one that shut down the proxy)
Turning on/off a proxy server is not going to produce this kind of error si ti's a coincidence...
DLoad and run the diagnostics from the HDD manuf. website to see if the drive/s have failed...

Hi, I need a bit advice: I have an old computer, because of finances I have to do with this. I have a Asrock k7s8xe motherboard and a AMD 3800 CPU, can I put a fast CPU in this computer and will it help?You currently have that motherboard and CPU paired in a system. Is that right? BASED on what I read at http://download.asrock.com/manual/K7S8XE.pdf (pg. 5), that motherboard does not support a dual-core processor such as the AMD 3800. So, please clarify your situation. sorry the CPU is a AMD Athlon XP/ 3200 Socket A
Thanks for replyingWell, ACCORDING to the reference I cited, that motherboard will not support an AMD 3800. You're REALLY as high as you can go with that motherboard, as far as the CPU is concerned. Hi, these are the supported CPUs for your motherboard: AMD Athlon, AMD Athlon XP, and AMD Duron
source: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=K7S8XE

It's up to you if you wanna buy a new CPU (mentioned above) with higher clock speed or upgrade your RAM. Again, please check the link. Good luck!Oh sorry, Athlon XP 3200 is the fastest AMD processor for socket A (462). The other one with 2333 MHz is used only in Hewlett Packard personal computers. I believe you're using the 2200 MHz Athlon XP 3200. So my suggestion goes to RAM upgrade.

Hey guys, I've recently noticed certain games kinda seem as if they "Slow down" with my computer which is more than capable of running. This happens mostly with GTA.

My computer cant run GTA IV the greatest, and it slows down, but I also have San Andreas, it SEEMS to slow down when Im trying to drive at fast speeds. Its kinda hard to explain but it feels like its pushing my car back and preventing it from speeding too fast as if its slowing my game down on purpose.

Im using Win 7 64 bit with an AMD DUAL Core Processor @ 2.8 ghz, and I got a ATI Radeon HD 4200 gfx card.

It should run smoothly. ANYONE think they know why and/or to prevent this. Someone said I should make my GTA run only on one processor.

If you need any more specs its on my "Specs" profile field.

Thoughts?Hiya,

Have you tried disabling the frame limiter / V-sync?

It is possible that your games are running at 60FPS until you start to get a lot of motion, in which case the V-sync will kick in if your output drops below 60, forcing it down to 30 to prevent page tearing. this can make it look like the game is suddenly 'slowing down' because the frames per second your eye sees, HALVES almost instantly.

Note that having it disabled will still cause the game to drop below 60 at high speeds, but the drop is hopefully only 5-10fps, enough to trip the V-sync limiter, but not enough to notice unless you are turning the camera. Also note you will get "page tearing" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_tearing

KurtisTheres no V-Sync option, but I have already disabled the frame limiter. Not seeming to really do much. Other suggestions?Quote from: WillNeedsHelpFast on June 16, 2011, 11:00:08 PM

Theres no V-Sync option, but I have already disabled the frame limiter. Not seeming to really do much. Other suggestions?

Old computer stopped working quickly a while back and I bought a new one. New computer is running XP and the old box is running 98. Have hooked up the old HDD and it says it will not run the disc due to the differences in OS. Is there anyway around this or are all the old files gone.Shouldn't see that error message at all...http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/How are you trying to access the drive? You still need to boot to your current OS.It is connected through a slave IDE connection. The main disc thats running XP is still connected.
Here is the actual error message that comes up.

Checking File system on E:
The type of the file system is FAT32

One of your discs needs to be checked for consistency. You
may cancel the disc check, but it is strongly recommend
that you continue.
Windows will now check the disk.
Volume serial NUMBER is 1B4A-0EFA
The specified disk appears to be a non-windows xp disk.
Do you WANT to continue (Y/N) No
Error in writing the output log.
.......

That is what comes up when i try to boot. It is as far as I can get with the drive connected.Quote from: Lumpy44 on June 20, 2011, 05:08:02 PM

...
Here is the actual error message that comes up.

Checking File system on E:
The type of the file system is FAT32

One of your discs needs to be checked for consistency. You
may cancel the disc check, but it is strongly recommend
that you continue.
Windows will now check the disk.
Volume serial number is 1B4A-0EFA
The specified disk appears to be a non-windows xp disk.
Do you want to continue (Y/N) No
Error in writing the output log.
.......

hey there

i'v got a dell latitude d600 that has MICROSOFT XP. I THINK i just disinstalled the microphone on it cause there is no SOUND recording and i can't TALK on skype AND i thought i was disintalling a webcam.
How can i re-install it???

Thanks so much!

bryce

Hello everyone!
About 5 months ago I posted about my hard drive being out on my Dell Inspiron 1525 and I received lots of help on where to purchase a new one, etc. Everything and all information was great. Well guess what? Just 5 months after replacing the hard drive it's out again! What could be causing that to happen? What was happening with the computer was that when we tried to start it Windows would not load. So, I tried to reload Windows and that would not work. So I ran the diagnostic program and received "Error: 0142. Msg code: 2000-0142 Hard drive 1. Self Test unsuccessful. Status 79."
Beep code was ONE - FOUR - TWO

Can anyone suggest anything? The new Hard drive was a 250GB WD Scorpion blue WD2500BEVT1) GO to the WD website, download their hd diagnostic utility, burn it to cd, boot to it and run it

2) If the hd actually is bad (it happens sometimes - just bad luck) it's still under warranty. WD will replace it for you.Restore Partition & Utility Partition are missing: http://www.goodells.net/dellrestore/
EDIT:
Sorry, missed that it's been working for a while.
Don't know what those beep codes mean. Follow Allan's advice.Quote

Beep code was ONE - FOUR - TWO

1) Go to the WD website, download their hd diagnostic utility, burn it to cd, boot to it and run it

2) If the hd actually is bad (it happens sometimes - just bad luck) it's still under warranty. WD will replace it for you.

OMG!!! My computer just shut down in the middle of running the Media SCAN!!!!! What now?

Did you read my post above?

yes I did. Help me out though since I don't know a ton about computers; This means my hard drive is fried again?
1-4-2 Parity RAM failure The first RAM IC has failed. Replace if possible

Your RAM is your computer memory; it is nothing to do with your hard drive. If it is faulty you need to get it replaced. You need to decide if it is worth paying to get this 2008 model Dell repaired.

Replacing RAM is extremely easy. [...] It will involve you going into your computer's interior.

You did notice that this is a laptop?

if it is the RAM why do I get the error message Error: 0142. Msg code: 2000-0142 Hard drive 1. Self Test unsuccessful. Status 79."

To check the ram, download memtest (http://memtest.org/). Burn it to a cd using a dedicated .iso burning utility (http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm), make sure the cd drive is at the top of the boot order in bios, then boot to the newly created cd and run the utility.

I am running a HP DV6-2150US, Intel I3 2.13 GHz dual core, 4 Gb RAM, Windows 7, and a SATA 7200 320GB hard drive (OEM).

As of a couple days ago, my hard drive fails to boot properly. SOMETIMES it flat out says that no hard drive can be found. Sometimes it says no OS is INSTALLED. Sometimes it boots just fine. I did a hard disk self test and it passed. I completely reformatted the hard drive and it is still doing it. It has not been dropped or mishandled in any way. Cabling appears to be fine to/from the hard drive... Any other suggestions?Oh, and the only error I sometimes get is a 03F0. AND my warranty expired about 20 days ago... Freakin HP...What test did you RUN ? ?comprehensive hard drive test through biosTry the Free one from the HDD manuf. site...BIOS test is not always reliable...
Run the long test.new symptoms... will boot Ubuntu off of USB and CD every time... Hard drive?Quote from: patio on June 18, 2011, 07:45:10 AM

Try the Free one from the HDD manuf. site...BIOS test is not always reliable...
Run the long test.

Hello,

I'm wanting to buy and install a new graphics card. My current card (ATI Radeon X800XT (265mb I think)) doesn't support the shader model 3 for the new games that are coming out. I'm not really good with comprehending what is and isn't compatible with my PC so here I am. I'm looking for a card that is no more than a $100ish, give or take 10 bucks, but I would like to go with the best cheapest card I can that has shader model 3 and enough memory to run a game like Arma 2/Dirt 2/NFS Shift ETC..

I checked out Newegg.com, but I didn't SEE any info in the specification that states it had SM3 o_0' seems kinda of an important piece of information when BUYING a card not to make it upfront like the fruity names of the card title. '

Also, when I do get get another card. I going to give my friend my current card and I bought my PC USED and do not have the installation CD. Does he have to call and request one, or.......idk. Maybe I could find the install file in my c:/ and burn it to a disk? idk.

Any adivce or suggestions would be great, thx.


Hardware specs: http://www.d-a-l.com/hardware-scanner/app/results.php?id=bd517483aea5c25c8ef1fab119d29d33Its been about 4 days and no replies!

ive just recently upgraded my computer and given it a new antec 900 case, a 800watt power supply and a new harddrive, the case helped drop all temperatures by around 20 degrees on load but now when i want to play my games the averege FPS is at 30 whereas before it would average at 60.

--------[ EVEREST Home EDITION (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer STEVE-PC
Generator Tom
Operating System Windows 7 Ultimate Media Center Edition 6.1.7100
Date 2009-09-16
Time 11:32


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Operating System Windows 7 Ultimate Media Center Edition
OS Service Pack -
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name STEVE-PC
User Name Tom

Motherboard:
CPU Type 2x , 2400 MHz
Motherboard Name Unknown
Motherboard Chipset Unknown
System Memory 3584 MB
BIOS Type AMI (05/07/09)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX+
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX+
Monitor Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB] (HSHLA03738)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter High Definition Audio Controller [NoDB]

Storage:
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) Ultra ATA Storage CONTROLLERS - 27DF
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801GB/GR/GH (ICH7 Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller - 27C0
SCSI/RAID Controller ALQDB9FH IDE Controller
Floppy Drive Floppy disk drive
Disk Drive WDC WD1600JD-75HBC0 ATA Device
Disk Drive SAMSUNG HD103SI ATA Device
Optical Drive PHILIPS DVD+-RW DVD8631 ATA Device (DVD+R9:2.4x, DVD+RW:16x/4x, DVD-RW:8x/4x, DVD-ROM:16x, CD:40x/24x/40x DVD+RW/DVD-RW)
Optical Drive WNSRWZ S5UV89I7KXYF SCSI CdRom Device
Optical Drive WNSRWZ S5UV89I7KXYF SCSI CdRom Device
SMART Hard Disks Status Unknown

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 149699 MB (13103 MB free)

Input:
Keyboard HID Keyboard Device
Keyboard Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse HID-compliant mouse
Mouse Microsoft PS/2 Mouse

Network:
Network Adapter Atheros AR8121/AR8113/AR8114 PCI-E Ethernet Controller(NDIS6.20) (192.168.1.100)

Peripherals:
Printer EPSON Stylus SX200 Series
Printer Fax
Printer Microsoft XPS Document Writer
Printer WebEx Document Loader
USB1 Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C8 [NoDB]
USB1 Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27C9 [NoDB]
USB1 Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CA [NoDB]
USB1 Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB Universal Host Controller - 27CB [NoDB]
USB2 Controller Intel(R) 82801G (ICH7 Family) USB2 Enhanced Host Controller - 27CC [NoDB]
USB Device Generic USB Hub
USB Device USB Composite Device
USB Device USB Input Device
USB Device USB Input Device
USB Device USB Input Device

Problems & Suggestions:
Problem Disk free space is only 9% on drive C:.

any help would be greatly appreciatedQuote

Problem Disk free space is only 9% on drive C:.

how much would that really help though? it was like that even before the upgrade

I have a nvidia 8800gt and on load It gets up to 80 degrees celsius

I was wondering if you could give me instructions on how to speed my fans up to keep my card cooler on load..

Also I am on WINDOWS xp 32 bitMy RESEARCH on your behalf has found that the manufacturer apparently states the card can run under load to 100 degrees C. However the concensus of users is that TEMPS over 80 should be avoided. There are a number of references with recommendations to use this software for that card to deal with fan speed issues. I am not in a POSITION from personal knowledge nor experience to comment on the desirability of doing this process. OTHERS may come along with further comments re your concerns.
http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?page=rivatuner
truenorthQuote from: truenorth on June 21, 2011, 04:42:45 PM

My research on your behalf has found that the manufacturer apparently states the card can run under load to 100 degrees C. However the concensus of users is that temps over 80 should be avoided. There are a number of references with recommendations to use this software for that card to deal with fan speed issues. I am not in a position from personal knowledge nor experience to comment on the desirability of doing this process. Others may come along with further comments re your concerns.
http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?page=rivatuner
truenorth

Hi All-
I'd greatly appreciate some advice. I am doing online classes and this is the last thing I need right now...LOL!!!

I was using my laptop, and it suddenly powered COMPLETELY off. It will turn back on for 5-30 seconds and the powers off as if someone flipped a switch. Sometimes it powers off almost immediately, sometimes I can get to the HP Invent Screen, and some times I can make it to Windows Error Recovery screen.

I have the same problem on battery power, on a/c power, and on a/c power with the battery out. The blue power LIGHT remains on when the cord is plugged in.

I have not had any problems, previously, before this happened today. Thanks in ADVANCE for any ideas!!!

HP dv2940se
Windows Vista Home Premium

JennWill the battery charge?

The most simple thing is that you'll need a new power cord. Perhaps the transformer unit on the power cord no longer functions correctly.Quote from: AEGIS on September 18, 2009, 10:52:15 AM

Will the battery charge?

The most simple thing is that you'll need a new power cord. Perhaps the transformer unit on the power cord no longer functions correctly.

I have this problem.
when the computer is turned off the led of the SCREEN is on... first its green for a sec and then its orange like it should be.
when I turn the computer on there is no LIGHT on the screen led.
so if I turn the computer back off the screen will turn on.
if the computer is on and I disconct the DVI CABLE from the computer the screen is working.
after an hour of restarting and rebooting the computer the screen is working again... So I ususlly just leave the computer on so I wont have to GO fru all of this again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXbFEJLwZEE

I tried to change the graphic card... I bought a new one... didnt helped.

thx in advance
It's normal No issues with thatYeh thx...

My MOTHERBOARD Name is: Dell OptiPlex GX280, running DELL OEM XP sp2
It is a SFF (Small Form Factor)
This BIOS says the thing has more that one SATA port and more that one IDE port. But when I look into the case I oily find one SATA connector and one IDE connector. The IDE is an oddball thing that goes to the CD-ROM drive.
I want to add more storage to this system.
On option is to buy a new HDD. The one in it now is a 40GB SATA.
In my junk fox I have two w0 and one 80. But only one of the 40 is SATA.
So I am thing I could add 40 GB to the system and tout would double my space and leave room for Windows 7.
I would take out the floppy to make room.
Any ideas before I go any further?
(Other than buy a real computer, I need this because I have limited space here, My wife's sowing machines are in the room and take moist of the desk space in here.)
If youve looked hard and can only find one sata port then it wont work, unless you get rid of the cd rom drive and put in a ide one. In the ssf THINGS its hard to use the same ide cable for something like the cd drive and a hard driveQuote from: computeruler on September 18, 2009, 03:33:08 PM

If youve looked hard and can only find one sata port then it wont work, unless you get rid of the cd rom drive and put in a ide one. In the ssf things its hard to use the same ide cable for something like the cd drive and a hard drive

I re-re-rechecked fastening and as far as I can tell it is as it should be.
Its tight, does not move or anything.

Weird thing happened when booted after that.
Before loading OS I got error that said "Overclocking had failed".
Only thing had DONE before was yesterday when I lowered CPU offset voltage from 1.4V to 1.35V.
But I had booted many times after that without any problem.Quote from: Madoc Comadrin on June 22, 2011, 05:28:04 AM

I re-re-rechecked fastening and as far as I can tell it is as it should be.
Its tight, does not move or anything.

Before loading OS I got error that said "Overclocking had failed".

How tightly did you tighten the screw?

The fact that it does not move does not necessarily mean that it is tight enough. How tightly did you tighten the screw? The heatsink needs to be pressed quite hard onto the top of the cpu case. Normal heatsinks have a strong spring clip which is designed to make this happen. Your cooler has a screw arrangement and it may be that the screw is not tightened enough. Be careful however. Also...

Sounds like maybe the clock settings are not standard. Have you checked that the bus speed and multiplier are set properly? We have already established that the Vcore was 50 millivolts too high for that cpu. Maybe other things are wrong too.

Did you actually set the BIOS up?

About bus speed and multiplier, how do I know if they are properly set or not?

Hi all,

Before i explain my problem i'm sure a lot of you will immediately jump to the conclusion that my PSU is inadequate in terms of wattage, however i'm fairly sure it isn't.

So i recently assembled a gaming rig:

i7 920 @ 2.66ghz

ati hd4890 CF

Vista HomePremium x64

4x2gb ddr3 RAM @ 1600mhz

Seagate 500GB 7200rpm HDD

MSI X58M Pro E Motherboard

I-Cute Titanium 750W PSU

I used extreme psu calculator lite to calculate an estimate of how much power my rig would consume, and it told me it wouldn't even hit 600W when peaked.

But even if that is just an estimate and may be rather off the mark, I'm sure (and was told by the computer salesman who serviced me thrice) that it would run fine on stock cooling and stock clocks.

My problem is, well the title says it all. Whenever i stress my 4890s in CF, my computer just dies (no proper shutdown or anything). Be it in-game or in 3d mark vantage. It doesn't even have to be a stressing game. It dies on CS:Source!

So my question is, what's causing my computer to die? Could it be faulty connection between my gfx cards and my board?

Thanks in advance! DLoad Speed FAN and get 2 readings:
One at idle and one under load.
Post your results.Sure.

IDLE

Local Temp: -56C
Remote Temp: 72C
Temp1: 31C
Temp2: 75C
Temp3: 41C
HD0: 28C
Core 0: 31C
Core 1: 31C
Core 2: 28C


LOAD Intel Burn Test v2.3 - 5 mins

Local Temp: -56C
Remote Temp: 72C
Temp1: 54C
Temp2: 80C
Temp3: 42C
HD0: 28C
Core 0: 55C
Core 1: 55C
Core 2: 52C

i could only stress the cpu since my computer fails as soon as i challenge my gpu. 5 mins is really short, but i guess it gives a rough indication, bearing in mind my computer SHUTS down immediately and not over time. Sounds more like a gpu overheating problem to me.

Not sure about the quality of that psu (which imho is as important as the watt ratting) as I have never heard of ICute before, but it should have PLENTY of power (assuming it has enough on the 12v rails)


i don't think it's an overheating issue, because it shuts down immediately whenever stressed. If i shutdown like 20-30 mins into a game then yes that could very well be the cause, but 0.5s into the game? kinda hard to overheat in that period of time. I agree that seems unlikely. Just to be sure though, I would take the side panel off the tower and try running a house fan into the case and see if it still happens. Other than that, I am at a loss. If you had another video card you could borrow, you could try it to help in your troubleshooting. Hey JXY. Glad to see you back.

I know you've got two graphics cards in there.

Try re-seating them both as I said earlier, and try booting the computer with only one hooked up a time.alright will do. i'll post back later today or tomorrow =DProblem solved.

PSU was faulty.Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on September 17, 2009, 07:50:58 PM

Problem solved.

PSU was faulty.

I'm assuming he sent you a private message or something, but I was reading this and thinking the same thing.

runs at full fan and slightly lower temps for a week or so then right back at it.

Just built a new computer. Everything seemed to be going WELL, I installed Windows 7 and all necessary drivers. Within a couple of minutes of being in the desktop the computer cut out completely. I tried resetting it but the power button would not come on at all even after pressing the button.

However, the LED's on the motherboard still light up so power is still running through the motherboard, but the system will not power up at all when I press the button. So none of the components will power up or the fans will not come on, but the green LED on the motherboard still LIGHTS up so the motherboard has power running through it.

I can't think what the problem was as everything was working initially. I've checked that all the wires are sucrely in place, I'm wandering whether the motherboard could have shorted? Thanks!

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 (LE)
Intel I5 2400 Processor
GPU: Nvidia GTS450
4GB DDR RAM
PSU: Corsair CX600I would swap power supplies first, because it can still be a power supply issue even though you see lit led's. If that doesnt correct problem, then I'd say you may have a motherboard issue directly related to the soft-power on feature that your push button triggers, in which you may be replacing the motherboard. It is strange though that you would have had it running LONG enough to install win 7 and then have it crap out at the desktop. At least it didnt do like my college project computer in which I built it with the cheapest barebone new GUTS I could buy and on 3rd power up I had a pop and white cloud of smoke blowing out the back of the power supply as for the no name chinese power supply failed and blew a large electrolytic capacitor making a rotten fish stench in my home which my wife enjoyed ...ha haYeah I would try that but I don't have a spare PSU to hand.

I've been considering if it could be the soft power button but as the system cut out while using it this shouldn't be a problem? I'll try fiddling around with it and see what can I do..

Very frustrating when I just want to try out a new computer and to think I've almost got there! This is a reasonable quality computer though with (apparently) well manufactured parts.

Thanks for your help!

Hi,

Can anyone tell me why my laptop battery goes down so fast?
I have a Dell latitude D505 with a 90w adapter.

Battery information:
Dell Battery Module
Rechargeable Li-ion Battery TYPE C1295
Rating:11.1V ---4700mAH Capacity 53WH

Any help on how to bring my almost dead battery back to life for free would be good.Quote from: jacksonc on September 18, 2009, 01:58:34 AM

Hi,

Can anyone tell me why my laptop battery goes down so fast?

how do we do a slow charge with a 90w charged?

Dell Dimension 5150 windows XP home SP3, just installed a new LG GH22 DVD rewriter and the computer will not recognize the DRIVE, no "found new hardware". Multiple hardware searches reveal nothing. Could the driver be bad? I've had a hard time LOCATING a driver anyway. Any help?With Dells the SATA ports that don't have devices connected are disabled in the Bios. You will need to access the bios and enable the SATA port and if there is no more IDE devices disable that port. And then your new SATA DVD will work.
Dell™ Dimension™ 5150/E510 Service Manual, SYSTEM Setup Ahh YES.. now I remember... thank you, if it doesn't work I'll let you knowNope no luck, I turned on all the drives and on start up it says drive 2 not found, so I moved the device to port 2 then it says drive 1 not found..still no go.

Hello,

I have a HP Pavilion Media Center Desktop M8400FPC with a HP/HDMI w2207h MONITOR. When I booted up the PC, the monitor briefly came on with the following message.

VGA - No input signal
HDMI - No input signal

After the above message displays for for 2-seconds, the "Monitor going to sleep" verbiage appears.

Not sure if this is a bad monitor(3-years old), or if there's ANOTHER problem. From what I can tell, everything appears to be connected properlty. The keyboard display is lit up so that appears to be working.

We did get a new moden/wireless router installed by Brighthouse 2-weeks ago, but everything worked normal until today.

Any idea what my problem could be?

Thank you in ADVANCE for any ASSISTANCE. ScottTry HP monitor on another computer or try a different monitor on the HP.I will give it a shot. Thank you

Unlike earlier posts, I removed the NIC and added a reliable PSU, and a better CPU. I want to keep this for six years, so in 2012, I wont have to buy a new PC.

167.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115037 CPU
084.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128380 MB
049.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227195 RAM

049.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133247 VDO

059.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371005 PSU
029.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147074 CASE

089.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148433 HDD
049.98 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106281 DVDRW * 2

021.66 SHIP
604.57 TOTAL

Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0GHz
4GB DDR2 RAM
nVidia Geforce 9400GT
1TB Seagate Hard DRIVE
2 DVD RW Drives
380W 80 PLUS ATX PSU

Notes: I will add a floppy drive but I already bought it.
Many COMPUTERS have two DVD drives, even some in the market.
I am not a gamer, I need two monitors. The Geforce 9400 card has Dual DVI ports.
I will build this around the release date of Windows 7. This PC will have Windows 7.A 380W PSU is cutting it a bit thin for those components...Quote from: neelchauhan on August 16, 2009, 07:55:43 AM

I want to keep this for six years, so in 2012, I wont have to buy a new PC.

For the same price let's do this PSU: PCP&C 430W http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703017
And for your CPU let's spend $20 today and get a quad with virtualization Q9400 $189 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115131

You can drop a DVD and easily add that in later should you decide you really need it. These changes do not affect your total price, they just reallocate some funds where you will get a bigger benefit/longer upgrade cycle for your dollars. Also, the 9500 nVidia cards are dropping into the <$50 range, so keep an eye out there when you decide to buy.

http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/archives/000012.html

For the same price let's do this PSU: PCP&C 430W http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703017
And for your CPU let's spend $20 today and get a quad with virtualization Q9400 $189 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115131

You can drop a DVD and easily add that in later should you decide you really need it. These changes do not affect your total price, they just reallocate some funds where you will get a bigger benefit/longer upgrade cycle for your dollars. Also, the 9500 nVidia cards are dropping into the <$50 range, so keep an eye out there when you decide to buy.

I am planning on getting a new desktop with an Antec 1200 case. I want lots of disk space, so I am thinking on getting the Seagate Barracuda 7200.11RPM 1.5TB hard drive. I've been finding a lot of complaints online about these hard drives freezing and dying after short periods of time. Some people have claimed that Seagate has released firmware updates to fix this problem, but that these updates slow down the performance of the hard drive.

First QUESTION: Has this model of hard drive been 'fixed' as in no longer freezes? And does it still have good performance?

Second Question: I want this new computer to last a long time, so I was wondering if I would need a hard drive cooler for this hard drive which has a high capacity and spins at 7200 Rpm? If so, does anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks for any replies.Hard drives do not need more cooling. But you can install a tiny fan to blow over the top plate if you like.
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=577&name=Hard-Drive-Cooling
I don't see the point in paying $25 for a fancy fan. The lost cost model will do fine.

If you have any doubts about this drive, go for a smaller drive you trust. Later add more storage when you need it. General rule is not to be the first in the club to try something new.The reviews on it look ok to me. But I would go for a wd 1tb instead. Do you really need even 1 tb of space? For your case, I would also go for the haf 932I installed a Seagate Barracuda 1tb hard drive #ST31000333AS in the PC I built March this year (in my specs). It's the only hardware I've had problems with and would not buy another. I've ALWAYS bought WD (including the WD Velocirapter hard drive in that same build} and had no problems with any of the WD's, 2 of which are 6 yrs old. I doubt I'll buy another Seagate but that's just me based on my own experience. wd is the best there is!I've usually GOT WD, but for my build I got a seagate. works fine for me.

Almost out of space on thos 750GB though. time for more Hard drives!Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 17, 2009, 08:22:39 PM

my build

Almost out of space on thos 750GB though. time for more Hard drives!

instead of this hard drive that fails without a slow firmware update.

The problem Seagate drives were from awhile back and the issue has been addressed with a firmware update...
They were no where near 1.5Tb in size so you should have no issues.

Which RAM configuration is better, performance-wise:

DDR2 2Gb 800 MHz CL-4
or
DDR2 3Gb 800 MHz CL-5?

(Both would be running in single channel mode. OS = Windows 7, x86.)NOBODY can give a right ANSWER without some other factors.
Using applications that never reach 2 GB. Simple answer, GO with the faster.
But do you really have an application the just must have 3 GB to work in? Does it really use all the 3GB? Would the latency issue arise in that PROGRAM?

Even with more details, there would still be no clear answer. The latency issue is not as easy as you might thin k.
The only clear answer is that if everything else is equal, the lesser latency would be better. Maybe. If you want to compare two 2 GB modules, we might... or might not.
Read this very carefully.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAS_latency

Now let me give a better answer. But I have to change the question.

Q. Is a 1 GB slow RAM going to work as good as a fast 2GB RAM?
A. No, the 2GB will perform better in most cases. It depends.

I see. Well, the applications in question are quite demanding, as typical of GRAPHIC games. E.g., TES-4 Oblivion tweaked to allow addressing more than 2 Gb memory.
Seeing as all hardware settings are intervowen, I guess I'll go for the higher cl & bigger size; otherwise, with both modules running at the same settings, there'll be either over- or underclocking of latency & voltage settings on one of them...
Unless there is some BIOS option to process the modules in a different way, separately (is that theoretically possible?), or, maybe, some utility for that?

Re-started PC...it works!!!

THANK you so much folks.
I cannot begin to express how much you all have generously helped me with my MANY PC issues, without you...I'd be ^%$#ed!
THANKS!


Now before we close this thread, any other possible features I may need a driver for (too bad about MS Office lol).Glad to see your problem is solved. As to this "Now before we close this thread, any other possible features I may need a driver for (too bad about MS Office lol" =time will tell. However i WOULD check the device manager for any of the error symbols i mentioned before your leverage with Staples RUNS out. Other than that if something else arises create a NEW post and we'll do what we can.truenorthQuote from: bluecountry on June 22, 2011, 12:35:54 AM

(too bad about MS Office lol).

Okay so, today I noticed that one of my disk drives is missing. I used to have TWO one said hp recovery and the other hp pavilion, and now there's only one!Hp recovery.

Recently I reinstalled my computer using recovery cd's I bought from http://www.digitalmedia-labs.com/
My computer is a Hp pavilion 725n, running on windows xp home service pack 2! any help will be appreciatedHow are you viewing your availible hard drives? Using Windows, BIOS or the software from digital media?i guess windows since the software reinstalled windows. once in windows i just go in my computer and under hard disk drive, only one SHOWS up, hp recovery. it used to have two under the hard disk drive.Right click My Computer ...select Manage...then Disk Management....
Does it show up there ? ?
If so right click it and select Properties....report back.

PS. You didn't mention if the BIOS is seeing it or what is on this drive...WENT to disk managment it didnt show up there. As for bios i dont know how to check that. i tried accessing bios thru f2 and delete but i cant, i can access bios setup thoughIt will be LISTED in the BIOS setup...
WARNING: Do NOT make any changes when you're in there or you may wind up with an un-bootable machine...while there, what am i looking for?

Hi,

I was wondering if I could get a BIT of help here.

A friend of mine has a bit of problem with his PC. The problem is when he PLAYS a certain game, he does not get any sounds coming out of the speakers. However, he claims that there is nothing wrong with the speakers because he does get the sounds when playing musics or when windows get loaded up. It's just this particular game that he does not hear any sounds at all. He TOLD me that he had the hard drive on this PC reformatted the other day because it's got some viruses. The game was working fine with sounds on the same PC. He's been having this sound issue since he had the hard drive reformatted and re-load the windows XP Pro and all the other programs.

The same game installed on a laptop and it works well. He can hear the sounds of the game from the laptop. He still has the motherboard CD with him. I was thinking of re-INSTALLING all the driver from the motherboard CD. Are there anything else I can try to troubleshoot this problem?

I believe he uses the XP Pro on the PC.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Instead of installing the drivers, try reinstalling the game itself. Or double-check the device manager and volume settings or output for that particular game.

OK have an issue with a laptop I'm trying to fix for a friend. Will attempt to supply as much info as possible.

ACER Aspire 7730 series
Win Vista Home Basic 64 bit (I assume it's 64bit with the RAM)
4GB RAM
Intel core duo T5800 2.0ghz
160GB HDD
DVD RW
Outside of manufacturers warranty


OK now to the issue. When I plug the laptop in the power button lights up blue. When I press the power button nothing happens as in no fans start and the HDD indicator does not flash and the power button just stays blue. Also of course the screen does not power up in any way.
I did notice that the keyboard had been unseated, as in it was bulging in the centre (he says it's not been dropped).

I tried using a different monitor plugged in with HDMI and VGA just to tick the box and nothing.

I tried leaving it unplugged over night and nothing changed, tried without the battery attached and nothing. I then tried a Static Discharge by removing the RAM, HDD and then holding the power button down for 1 minute. Re-attached everything and still nothing.


I then pretty much dismantled the whole laptop as I wanted to check connections. Everything inside seemed fine, there did seem to be some slight liquid damage (staining) in the inner case but I checked over the MB and other components and there seemed to be no lasting residue. He did tell me it just suddenly stopped working as in not after he spilled a drink on it.
I re-seated the keyboard and re-built the whole thing and it's back to the way it was....
Blue night nothing happens.

I have considered the need to flash the BIOS but as I'm not insured I would rather not do something that would make things worse. But if this is going to be the next step, I would like some advice on the best/safest way to do this.
As far as I know I would need a flash drive (which I don't seem to have 'lost') and a copy of the BIOS and then hold Fn and ESC on pressing the power button. But never done it before so need to be careful.
I do have and external drive and DVD drives available if it can be done that way.

Any constructive advice gratefully appreciated.
Thanks in advance






I would try it with another matching power cord before resorting to flashing the BIOS...
A flash may not accomplish anything anyways.OK I have no similar power supplies, so ordered one from eBay. Will get back to you tomorrow or day after. Thanks for the quick response Patio. No problem Mulreay...good to seeya again.Quote from: patio on June 20, 2011, 06:39:36 AM

No problem Mulreay...good to seeya again.

...I have considered the need to flash the BIOS but as I'm not insured I would rather not do something that would make things worse. But if this is going to be the next step, I would like some advice on the best/safest way to do this.
As far as I know I would need a flash drive (which I don't seem to have 'lost') and a copy of the BIOS and then hold Fn and ESC on pressing ...

You can't flash the BIOS, if it won't power up. All symptoms indicate it's dead. That's pretty much how all laptops die, they just won't turn on.

Since just about everything is on the motherboard, it would require a motherboard replacement. IMHO, not worth the cost. I had the same problem with a Dell laptop I was trying to fix. Sold it to a vendor for more than I expected. The vendor parts it out & makes a tidy profit by selling the screen, keyboard, power adapter, etc.

Have you tried with the new power cord/supply yet ? ?

So I placed a new fresh from the package CD-R in the D: drive (Thats the DVD-RW on this Computer). I then opened D: and clicked to add a new folder. It gave me a file TYPE error, So I figure it needs to be formated before I can use it. I go to command Prompt and type
format D: /fs:NTFS /v:famHistory and hit enter. It keeps saying that the device is busy. Busy? Busy doing what?

Now just for the record. I have NEVER formated a disk before. I have never created a CD, Disk or what ever. Up to this point, the only interaction I have had with Drive D: was to place a game disk in it and push the close button. I read the help files to get as far as I did, but they offered no suggestions for "Device is busy"

Please if anyone knows how I can place some files on a disk to mail to a family member, I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me.

If this helps: The files will contain scanned documents, Read only.If you are using current version of Windows XP it is not necessary to format a CD-RW disc.
Just PUT the disc in the drive.
Close the tray.
Wait for XP to RECOGNIZE it.
Select the files of interest and send them to the CD drive.
When you open the CD drive, it will say 'there are dies to be written' and you can figure it out from there.
Thank you, that worked. i was trying to do the job in the reverse order.


Now how do I close this topic? I don't require any further assistance.
Quote from: kermit454 on February 14, 2011, 12:20:13 PM

Now how do I close this topic? I don't require any further assistance.

I have recently retired & for extra money I build & repair computers. I would like to know the best place to buy hardware as prices vary so much. Would you like to import from the far east? The LOWEST prices are on no name or white label hardware are from the pacific rim area. You can go into the eBay forums and find out how the vendors get there stuff from overseas. Some of the wholesalers may let you buy in small quantities.
http://forums.ebay.com/category/Ebay-Discussion-Boards/2001As with everything you can't bet after sales support. You may save say 20% on an item but if you have to wear the cost of warrantee or have to send it back to an online seller there goes any money that you make out of the sale. Find a local wholesaler or a computer retailer that will back you up 100% and give you a reasonable price. Then make your money out of the support and training and build a business on amazing QUALITY and service not price. Remember there is 2 things a customer FORGETS, how much they paid and how long they have had the item. But they never FORGET long waits to have something REPLACED or poor service.
newegg...Panama. Caribbean side.