Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Hello everyone, long time no see.

Just formatted and did a fresh install of WINDOWS XP on some old parts. N1996 Motherboard, GeForce2 MX/MX400, 320mb RAM and an unnamed processor.

Whenever I enter an application or folder it simply freezes. Neither mouse or keyboard reacts. Tried to install on another HDD same thing happens. I'm not sure if it's the Windows XP, my main computer is using the same Windows and was installed just recently but works perfect.

Thinking it might be a HARDWARE issue, processor, motherboard or video card.Run MemTest on that RAM...any errors at all and you have a bad stik of RAM.

You may want to consider adding some as well...RAM is cheap right now.MemTest? Googles it, screenshots gave me some bios-like stuff. The site didn't have much info on what to do with it.

Assuming from the screenshots I take it shouldn't be used directly in Windows, how do I use it exactly?
Correct me if I'm wrong and it actually can be launched in Windows. Correct...it RUNS outside of Windows.
Use the .iso ONE to create a bootable CD and it will run on bootup with the CD in.

Third one down...

SOS!!!
We have a machine that runs with modicon PLC 884 and its program is gone.
We need to re-install the back-up program but our Commodore C286LT also has a HardDisk problem (This Laptop was last use 13 years ago). The hard disk model is CP 2024 by Conner.

We kindly request if anyone has a working PC 286 with 3.5" floppy drive and RS232C connection, any information, which we can barrow or buy for the same, or supplier of vintage PC or HD, PLEASE post you info.

Thanking you in advance.


Have you tried ebay?

It's been a LONG time since I've seen a working 286. Ebay would be the first place I would start though.thanks quaxo

I tried searching ebay but no successHmm, not sure where you live, but there might be a shop near you that sells second hand or older (but new) computer parts. You could try calling around to local computer shops and see if they have what you need or can tell you where to get it.

I do know there's a company in Australia that sells old PC parts. Don't know if they'll be able to help you but it's worth a shot. http://www.pcwreckers.com/

MRS Systems out of the UK also sells old computer parts: http://www.mrssystemsuk.co.uk/

Honestly, I THINK you're in for a long difficult search. I won't say it's impossible, but unlikely. Best of luck, let us know if you find what you're looking for. Seems like it would run on a 386 or even a 486 as well...
What is the main application that runs and what operating system is used ? ?Thanks guys for the advise.

Today the problem is finally solve. I found an equally obselete but upgrade version of our software and it runs on Window 98. Using the software we were able to copy the program from another PLC of a working machine and load it to other machine with a problem.

here is the link : www.fast-soft.com

FasTrak SoftWorks, INC. is a leading provider of software for
maintenance management, file change management, PLC
programming and simulation, and DATA acquisition and monitoring.
Supported PLC vendors include CTI, Siemens, Modicon, and Square D.
Visit www.fast-soft.com for free demos and more information.

They have a great support team

Yesterday i also found a working PC 286 for sale from youtube, i'm still trying to get it.

Anyway thank you,

Godbless

WHEN I GO TO PLUG MY POWER BACK INTO THE PC,
IT BEGINGS TO START

WHEN I GO TO BOOT UP THE MONITOR OR THE KEYBOARD WILL NOT COME ON

I HAVE ANOTHER PC AS WELL. THE EMACHINES MONITOR WORKS ON THE OTHER PC, AND THE OTHER PC MONITOR DOESN’T WORK ON THE EMACHINES.

BUT THE FAN COMES ON, AND THE PROCESSOR AND HDD ARE CLICKING AND WORKING LIKE NORMAL.

I TRIED REMOVING THE LITHIUM BATTERY FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES, AND RE-BOOTED.
NOTHING.

I ALSO TRIED PUTTING HDD/CPU/MEM ON ANOTHER COMPUTER AND THEY ALL WORKED FINE.

I CHECKED TO SEE IF ANYTHING WAS BENT OR DAMAGE BUT ALL LOOKS FINE.

MY PC, IS A E-MACHINES W3107 WITH A INTERGRATED MOTHERBOARD
ON BOARD VIDEO
SO MY MONITOR CONNECTS TO THE MOTHERBOARD
I DONT HAVE A VIDEO CARD IN ANY OF THE BUS SLOTS

HERE ARE THE DIMENSIONS THAT I FOUND AT E-MACHINES WEB SITE
PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AT THE ATTACHMENT SO YOU CAN GET A BETTER IDEA
AT WHAT MY MOTHERBOARD LOOKS LIKE
SENT HELP A.S.A.P

CPU: AMD Sempron™ 3100+ Processor
(1.8GHz, 1600MHz system bus, 256KB L2 cache)
Operating System: Genuine Microsoft® Windows® XP Home (SP2)

Chipset: NVIDIA® Crush 51
Memory: 512MB DDR (1 × 512MB) 400MHz (PC3200)
Expandable to 2GB
Hard Drive: 100GB (7200rpm, 2MB cache)
Optical Drive: 16x multiformat dual-layer DVD±RW drive (up to 8.5GB with dual-layer media)
Media Reader: 8-in-1 digital media manager (Secure Digital™ (SD), Smart Media, Micro Drive, Memory Stick®, Memory Stick Pro®, Compact Flash, Multimedia Card, USB 2.0)
Video: NVIDIA® GeForce®™ 6100 GPU
Up to 128MB of shared video memory
PCI-Express® (PCI-E x16) slot available
Sound: 6-channel (5.1) AC'97 audio
Network: 10/100Mbps Ethernet LAN
Modem: 56K ITU v.92-ready fax/modem
Peripherals: Standard multifunction keyboard, 2-button wheel mouse, amplified stereo speakers
Ports/Other: 5 USB 2.0 ports (1 in media manager, 4 in back), VGA external connector, serial port, parallel port, 2 PS/2 ports (keyboard and mouse), 5 audio ports (2 in front, 3 in back)
Dimensions: 14.25"H x 7.25"W x 16"D
Weight: 22.5 lbs



[recovering space - attachment deleted by admin]I would try a new Power Supply Unit. What wattage is
your present one?

Manufacturers are famous for weak,or low wattage
PSU's.IT SET TO 115V ON THE BACK OF THE COMPUTOR

HERE IS EVERYTHING I CAN READ ON THE POWER SUPPLY

BESTEC :
MODEL: ATX-300-12E REV D
INPUT: 100-127V-6A 200-240V-3A 50/60HZ
OUTPUT: +12 --- / 15A. -12V --- /0.8A
300W MAX +5V --- / 30A. +5VSB --- /2A
+3.3V --- /28A

+5V & + 3.3V 180W MAX
+5V & + 12V & +3.3V 288W MAX
If the power supply in your other PC meets or exceeds the output of the malfunctionig PC you could try swapping them. I SUSPECT Street was right on the money...that PSU maxes out at 288W which means you are probably getting about 230W tops.

Hint: Don't replace it with a $20.00 special or you'll be in the same boat in no time.IM GOING TO TRY THE POWER SUPPLY
I DONT HAVE THE SAME BUT I KNOW WERE I CAN GET ONE
ILL LET YOU KNOW
THANKS WELL SORRY TO SAY IT WAS'NT THE POWER SUPPLY
MY ON-BOARD VIDEO IS BAD
GOING TO REPLACE THE MOTHER BOARD
COST ABOUT $160.00 BUT IT'S BETTER THAN BUYING A NEW COMPUTER
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP AND I MEAN THAT IN A ( GOOD WAY )
PHILYou could get a video card for around the same price instead of replaceing the whole board.
SO IF I GET A VIDEO CARD WILL IT LET MY KEYBOARD TURN ON

I am having the same problem with my comp. I am running an add on video card that is PCI-E compatible. I switched the card to the other slot and that didn't work either. I am guessing that it's my motherboard. I may be wrong but I would hate to see you buy a video card and then find out that you need a MB instead.

Hi everyone, I have a problem trying to reflash a BIOS on the computer. I think the motherboards BIOS might have somehow got corrupted and right now the hardware isn't working properly:

The long story:

My brother and I were playing a game on LAN when all of a sudden his computer just restarted. His computer then kept on restarting so my first theroy was that maybe his computer had some heating issues. I opened up his case and it was very dusty on the inside. I wiped the dust from most of the parts as well as the inside of the case and started the computer again. This time it looked like it started fine but when prompt to login screen came the computer restarted.

The second theroy was maybe bad software, I unplugged all the CDROM and Hard disk from the computer and start it up again. After a few minutes of booting the computer would just restart. The restarts seem to be getting worst and worst. This time it restarts during "verifying DMI pool data."

This made me lead to my third theroy of bad hardware. I took all the hardware out and placed it into another computer. ( diffrent model computer but they both accept the same hardware specifications ) After putting all the hardware to the second computer everything seemed to work fine there were no sudden restart. After checking that the hardware were all ok I put everything back into the first computer. This time the restart was the worst it has been. The computer would freeze up or when it restarts the computer would completley crash. ( The CD ROM lights would flash like crazy, so would the computer LED lights. the power button would not work and the reset button didn't do anything. You have to unplug the computer's power cable because there was no way to turn it off normally. )

This lead me to conclude that either the motherboards BIOS was corrupt or the motherboard was just going bad. I want to see if the motherboard is corrupt however the motherboard is not detecting the hardware properly. If it does detect it properly it fails to let me boot from any device, CD ROM or floppy the computer would just sit at the same screen or a message that says boot failed.

Some reason's why I think the BIOS is corrupted:

1 ) If I do not plug in all the hardware the computer at startup would struggle. It would give long pauses as if attempt to see if the hardware is really there.. if it does not detect the hardware the computer would just restart. ( This is the startup screen trying to detect the hard drive and CD Drive. )

2 ) If I plug in the hard drive without the CD ROM the computer at startup will still show that the CDROM is still there and after trying to startup it will restart again and again.

I have reseted the COMOS but that wasn't much help as the issues mention above still occured. I downloaded the BIOS from the manufacturer website and try to install it through the floppy however the screen just freezes and the computer refuses to boot any sort of floppy.

I remember I still had the motherboard CD so I thought I put it into the computer and boot from CD. I get a fail to boot message. I try starting up an operating CD and still get the Fail to boot message.

I was wondering if there was some way for me to fix the COMOS or at least get the computer to run the floppy so I can reinstall the COMOS.

If someone has experienced something this bad or has an input on what to do I would be greatful.

Summary:
A) Checked all the hardware and everything was ok
B) Checked to see if it was a software issue and it wasn't
C) The comptuer would incorrectly detect the devices at startup
D) The computer lights would flash crazy and the computer would completley freeze.
E) The computer would refuse to boot any device from the floppy or CD ROM


Computer Specs:
Intel Pentium II 400mhz
160 MB RAM - 64MB -64MB - 32MB
2x CD ROM - Creative Infra CDROM - Generic 52/32/52x CD-RW
2x Hard Drive - Western Digital 9GB - Maxtor 12GB
300w Powersupply
Floppy Drive
ATI RAGE PRO IIC 4MB Video card

If people have aditional questions feel free to ASKI experienced this on another pc, it was an extremely faulty ram stick. even bios would freeze, took it out and it RAN just fine. try all of them.An incorrect BIOS flash has produced many a doorstop.
You stated you cleaned the inside and it was very dusty. Wiping things won't normally get it all just move the dirt around...
Get a can of compressed air and do a thorough cleaning.
It's possible something became dislodged so recheck all your connections to everything.
You may have also dis-lodged a jumper pin...do you have a MBoard manual to check this ? ?

In short there are alot of things to check but a flash would be the last thing i would do...
Quote from: patio on May 29, 2007, 05:35:28 PM

An incorrect BIOS flash has produced many a doorstop.
You stated you cleaned the inside and it was very dusty. Wiping things won't normally get it all just move the dirt around...
Get a can of compressed air and do a thorough cleaning.
It's possible something became dislodged so recheck all your connections to everything.
You may have also dis-lodged a jumper pin...do you have a MBoard manual to check this ? ?

In short there are alot of things to check but a flash would be the last thing i would do...

Hey guys I wonder if any of you can help me out with this problem-

I dont know whats going on with my USB port - I seem to be able to use my external hard disk, but my computer wont let me use or install any other USB devices such as my mp3 player or mouse. The mouse is supposed to be just plug and play - it didnt come with any software!

Thanks for any help you can offer

NeilIs your USB port USB1.1 or USB2.0? If you open Device Manager and expand the section for Universal Serial Bus controllers, do you see an item for "Enhanced Host Controller"? Does Device Manager show all USB devices as working properly?

Do you have ports of front and back? Have you tried them all? Hey soybean, i have usb 2.0, its a relatively new laptop and ive had this problem since i first bought it.

In the usb section of device manager it has a LIST of ten things - Enhanced Host Controller 5 times and USB Root Hub 5 times. They are all (apparently!) working properly. I have 3 ports, 2 at the front and 1 at the back and have tried them all.

Argh!Some USB devices pull power from the USB BUS .... Usually you will get a USB Overload blat that will pop up for a second in the bottom tray. Sometimes it willnot report this problem.

I would suggest buying a (5 port Externally Powered USB HUB ), to have your devices powered and communicated through for less than $20. This will put the load on the USB HUBs ac adapter and keep the load off of your USB BUS and PC Power Supply. Be sure the USB HUB comes with an AC Adapter, as some cheap HUBs are mislabeled as External Powered, and dot come with the AC Apapter. Also some have a small switch to tell the USB HUB to power devices from AC Adapter or off the USB BUS. Be sure that this is switched in the AC Adapter Powered Position.

This problem is more common in older desktop computers with less USB BUS power from smaller wattage power supplies and laptops.
I'd bet DaveLembke hit the nail on the head. In CONNECTION with his suggestion, tino2k, was your external hard drive powered by an AC adapter? Oh right I never knew that would be the case. Yep my external hard drive is powered by an AC adapter. I will TAKE your advice and opt for the externally powered USB HUB. If I cant use a simple mouse or even an mp3 player then what kind of USB devices are there that don't pull power (to such an extent to overload) the USB BUS? I'm just wondering if I'll actually ever be able to use my USB ports without them overloading..

Thanks very MUCH for your advice

I am thinking about trying to build my own PC. I used to have a link to a website that you could buy every thing you needed from and when you picked one item it would only show you COMPATIBLE items so that every thing worked together. In other words you wouldn't buy a mother board that was too big for the case you wanted and you would get the correct type of RAM to fit in the mother board. This site also had comp building tutorials for those of us interested in learing how to do this sort of thing.

I am not wanting any thing special as it will just be my children using it if I can actually get it to work. They have several childrens GAMES that they currently play and like to use paint to draw. So there is no need in a powerful video card or processor. I am also not looking to spend alot of money.

Any advice and/or U.S. websites would be greatly appreciated.

ThanksNewegg.com is surely one of the top online sellers in the U.S. I can't say that they do what you want regarding compatibility but they have a list of helpful links at http://www.newegg.com/Info/KnowledgeBase.aspx. And, indeed, they do organize their product listings to help you focus your search. For example, if looking at motherboards, you can select AMD-compatible Motherboards or Intel-compatible Motherboards.

Another big online seller is tigerdirect.com. I'm not aware of any online sellers that provide the detailed compatibility info you seem to have in mind. Perhaps you should look at the "barebones" packages. They are basically partial systems, and then you buy the remaining components.

I have a feeling you're overly concerned about compatibility. Keep in mind that any of the major brands of hard drives and CD and/or DVD drives are compatible with PRACTICALLY all modern motherboards. When shopping for memory, take a look at crucial.com or kingston.com and use their memory selector tools to help select the right memory.
Try http://www.tigerdirect.com/ I have only ordered a couple of things from there but they both work fine. They have a huge selection on everything computer!

After adding some RAM and a card reader, I BOOTED my computer and got a "no signal" message on the monitor (connected via DVI). I tried attaching it via VGA, but same result. I then opened the case & moved the video card to another PCIe slot, and it worked. I disconnected all the cables to reassemble the case, rebooted, and again got the "no signal" message. Assuming that my video card was bad, I bought a new one, but still get the "no signal" message. I've tried the new card in both PCIe slots as well. I've tried removing the new RAM and card reader, but that doesn't make a difference. Any ideas?

If any of this helps: I just built the computer a few months ago. RAM is dual channel. First video card was XFX GeForce 6200 TurboCache / 64MB GDDR2. New one is XFX GeForce 7300 GT / 512MB DDR2. I'm running XP Pro.Try cleaning the PCI slots for the card...being careful of ESD (Electrostatic Discharge). Make sure the card i properly seated and the cables are properly attached.what MOTHERBOARD do you have and cpu ? Did you build this or buy it ? Mobo is an ABIT KN9; PROCESSOR is a Athlon 64 dual core 3800. I built this computer, but am no expert (can barely assemble one). Not knowing ANYTHING about hardware, I have a suspicion that the mobo is the problem. It ran fine until I added the RAM & card reader. Is there something on the Mobo that controls both PCIe slots that could have gone on the fritz? Can't really TEST them w/ another card (non-video), as there's no display.

Re: the first suggestion: I'm quite confident that the PCI slots & boards are clean, as all are new. Just built this in June.

I have all the external Connections and the Windows System wont Boot. The LED at the CPU turns red w/c indicates it is not booting. Please help me. What should I do? Thank youIt won't boot the bios, or the windows? If it's the windows, you could pop in the install disk and change the boot order to CD-rom first and re-install itYou have given only minimal INFORMATION. See below.I have disassembled the PC and make all the connections, the BIOS and Windows dont boot. I have turn off the power several time just to see the RESULTS. I have checked all the external connection and i have noticed that there is one wrong connection of the CPU cable. After this, the BIOs boots up then stated a checking on the disk. After the checking of the disk, it stated an error on this. \\Document\settings\Tin-tin \ntuser.dat.log.entry is not valid.

I have repeated this and declares another similar errors . It EVEN say about a certain file needed to ne truncated..What should i do? Please provide me with the step by step procedures on how to this becoz i am a beginner.

Thank you so much..You need to run CheckDisk on that DRIVE as it has errors...
This can be done with a bootdisk but as we still don't know what flavor of Windows you are running more info is still needed...
There shouldn't be a cable to the CPU so clarify this as well.Im using Asus P5PE-VM motherboard. ? The COMPUTER is not mind so is there any other way to check on the flavor you have mentioned?

How can chenck disk on the Drive?
Thanks.

I travel a lot for work, and am leery about taking personal DVD's with me (coz I'll damage them).

I know there's software out there to copy a DVD, but is there any good (that is, fast and reliable) software out there?

And are there especially good or bad brands of hardware? There's a Memorex on sale that looks tempting.

THANKS!Bump.i say go for it, but be cautious about buying ANYTHING from walmxrtIt depends where you live if this is legal and an OPTION. DRM and all.

http://www.slysoft.com/en/anydvd.html

AnyDVD for $30 is a bargain and what I use along with Nero 6 (and that is an OLD VERSION). Thanks. I guess my other concern is - my "real" DVD PLAYER - that is the one hooked up to my teevee - is like first generation (C. 1999). Will that play DVD's ripped on a computer in today's world?

Thanks,Unknown, but it may not be long for this world anyway.Quote from: GX1_Man on May 30, 2007, 04:40:27 PM

Unknown, but it may not be long for this world anyway.

I recently bought an HP Deskjet D2330, and whenever my computer goes to sleep the printer connection is lost and I have to reboot the computer to get anything to print. Does anyone know of any way to get AROUND this problem? Thanks so much!!Some details about the computer could be helpful.Sorry--it's a PC laptop I bought in 10/2006: Gateway-Notebook with AMD Turion™ 64 X2 Mobile Technology TL-52-MX6453. My OPERATING system is windows xp. When I send a document to the printer after the computer has gone to sleep, it just gets stuck in the print queue and sometimes I can't even delete it. Also I hear the hard drive whirring and feel the computer getting hot. Once I reboot the computer, the document starts PRINTING as SOON as the computer starts up again.

Thanks so much!I would contact Gateway first. THis may be a known issue to them. Are you the original owner? Is it still under warranty?Thanks for the help! I figured out that if I unplug the printer after the computer goes to sleep and plug it back in after it wakes up, the printer connection is fine and I don't have to reboot, so all is well...

OK. I bought a Philps DVD+R/+RW drive from craigslist. It did not come with a disk for installation, I ASSUMED it would be plug&play. It was an internal now converted to an external. I have it connected to the back USB port. My computer cannot read it because it needs a driver. I cannot, for the LIFE of me, find one for it anywhere, the manufacturer is not much help as they don't exist or something. It was MANUFACTURED in 2003. I am running Windows XP Home Edition on a Dell, I've tried contacting them as well, Dimension 2350. Everyone I've communicated with is telling me to contact the manufacturer but I cannot seem to do that either. I've been working on this for about 4 days now. I've tried contacting the person I bought it from but he's just giving me the run around and so now I'm stuck with this THING that just needs a driver but cannot find one to get it running. Can anyone, PLEEAASE help? Thank you in advacnce.

KathyGo to:

http://driverguide.com/Thank you but I've tried that website and STILL had no luck. I don't know if I'm doing ti wrong or what but ... I typed in Philips DVD+R/+RW drive and also ... DVD8301/44 ... also the product #: 5VO1324DX10260 ... I don't know what else to do. I'm not a computer buff, just trying all my options to the best of my ability. Yhank you.

Kathy
Kathy...

I've done a little research on this model by Philips. It seems it was used in some earlier versions of Hps and Compaqs. It's also known as an HP DVD Writer 300c.

I haven;t been able to find a driver for the 300c, however, you may want to try this link:

http://www.opendrivers.com/driver/213320/hp-dvd-writer-dvd300i-e-firmware-9k04-(300c-drive-revision)-free-download.html

which contains a firmware download for the 300e (300c revision)...I'm not quite sure it'll work...but it can't hurt...since it doesn't work anyway.

BTW...was this a desktop or notebook internal?

Today, all of a sudden the cd/dvd player in my laptop started causing all dvds and cds to skip/crackle/pixellate every few seconds from beginning to end. It started after I put a severely defective netflix dvd into the drive that the computer couldn't EVEN read. The only thing that plays without SKIPPING and crackling are xvid movies on cd-rom, but even with them I notice some pixellation. I tried using a dvd cleaner but nothing changed. If anyone has any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it--computer info below.

My computer is a PC laptop I bought in 10/2006: Gateway-Notebook with AMD Turion™ 64 X2 Mobile Technology TL-52-MX6453. 1.60 GHz, 1.87 GB of RAM. My operating system is WINDOWS xp. Most of my virtual and physical memory is still free, and I use NORTON Systemworks 2006 with Norton Antivirus (my machine is currently clean).

I was putting RAM into my sis's computer (ive put RAM in alot of computers) and I go to cut it back on and have it plugged in right and etc and made sure. .and when i hit the button. Nothing happens ...but when i plug the cord in the back a green light comes on on the motherboard. But yet nothing happens when i hit the button. (i also tried taking the new RAM back out and still doesnt work)

Whats the problem?

Thnx Is it the correct RAM ? ?
You may have inadvertantly dislodged something while inside the CASE...double check all connections.Check that the button on the FRONT has not BROKE i had the same problem on my pc at home i just took the front cover of got a pen and hit the button with that might help ya ! Well, the RAM is about the same "age" as the computer. I took it out of my custom built computer and was trying to give it to my sis b/c she needs more. I checked all the connections inside the computer and everything seems to be fine. Could I have shorted something out? I called a computer PLACE and they said to leave it unplugged for a few hours to let the motherboard "reset" and see if that works.

idk. ergh.The button worked fine like 5 seconds b4 i WENT in the computer. lol. but i will try that ..

thnxThe RAM being the same age as the computer really isn't helping...

We'd need to know the make and model of your motherboard in order to provide you with the correct memory...I have a similar issue...installed new memory, but my PSU blew when I turned the PC back on. Have purchased new PSU and all I have is the green light. I take it that my motherboard is a gonner?

A Lightning STORM killed my motherboard and I was wondering when I replace it(motherboard) will I have to reinstall windows or will it reconize it and BOOT up? I have alot of stuff I didnt wanna lose. The surge protector didnt help out much. Thanks, Jamescobberhead ...... If only the MOBO was TOASTED , and you replace it with EXACTLY the same as is (was) installed , then you should just be able to put it in , reconnect all the periphials ....and everything should be good. Just to be on the safe side, I would be slaving the hd on another machine and make copies of whatever you dont want to lose.......

It might be a good idea to test the ram as well, just to be sure it wasn't affected by the storm.

dl65

I have windows XP.

How do I VIEW the SIZE of my video card?Do this. Start, RUN, and enter DXDIAG in the Open box in the Run panel. When the Diagnostic Utility has opened, click on the Display tab for INFO on your video card.

why do people need a faster but relativley small hard drive
e.g. 10k raptor but only 74Gb etc.
also, i have 2 ide connectors both used and 2 SATA connectors. i have one 250Gb HDD on one ide and i want to add a SATA HDD on. would i have any problems with this?
thanx for any help in advance
BOO#
also, whats DVD RAM?people will buy just about anything...
besides, thos are mainly for servers that need fast drives for the frequenty accessed data with the less used data on huge sata drives.
and you probably won't have any trouble as long as you have a sata port/card.so the slave/master thing is only for my ide ports?somethign else, i have an 80Gb HDD from a one touch external WHCIH became corrupted to i removed the hard drive. is there any way that i can reformat the HDD so that i can add it?yes, maybe.
the slave/master is only for ide, but my(yours i dunno?) bios will read the sata drive as a completely DIFFERENT set of drives. so mine will probably work just fine, yours I don't know. I've never done that and I really don,t know. Try looking at your mobo manual to see if it has anything on that.
It depends how bad your drive is. try reformatting it in windows or linux (whatever you use). If it doesn't work, then your drive is probably toast.when i put the hard drive in, it says the drive is corrupted but thanx for ur help anyway.
boo!Quote from: boo on May 30, 2007, 01:30:37 PM

when i put the hard drive in, it says the drive is corrupted but thanx for ur help anyway.
boo!

Wow! Holy Crap! I haven't posted here in almost two years! Good to know, however, that I remembered CH when i needed help!

Anyhoo,
For some reason, recently, when i pop an audio CD into my CD-Rom/RW drive, it will not recognize there is a disc present. WMP will tell me to insert a disc into the drive, and when i go to my computer, it doesnt show a disc being INSIDE of it...when there is one!

It has no problem reading data discs, however.

I've TRIED EVERYTHING i can think of...

any ideas?What operating system?Win95,win98,win2000,win xp,or
other.windows xp.
sp2.There is a guided help program from MICROSOFT that works
sometimes with your problem.

127kb it's safe just download and run it.

Scroll down to the rectangle shape box that
reads Download Guided Help.

------------->GoHerehmm...
OKAY, well i guess i can try it.
but that's not really the problem.
my drive can read data cds
I'm playing music off of one right now.
but when i pop in an audio cd, it doesn't recognize it as being in the drive!

Ok..Well the PROBLEM with my computer is that when i turn the power button on the computer itself comes on but the monitor does not show anything and also the keyboard and the mouse are not registering. My network card green light shows, i can hear the fan on in the computer, the hard drive comes on, and the cd rom comes on..Does anyone know what kind of problem this is? I think it MAY be the power supply or the motherboard but im not sure which one it is. Any thing will be helpful.Try the basics first.
1. Make sure everything is plugged in, to include the monitor and it's power cable.
2. Clean out the inside of your computer with some air duster. (this just worked for someone with this same problem yesterday actually)
3. Listen. When you BOOT up, do you get any beeps? If so, check your mobo handbook and check the code against the ones in the book. If you don't have the book, post the code (one long two short for example) and the mobo model number here.Well everything is plugged up..I dont have a mobo handbook because it was a computer built for me.I have been having it for over 3 years now. Im going to try and clean it that may work.. but if that does not work any other ideas?No system beeps? Most mobos give at least a single "all's well" beep on boot up.

Try another monitor if you can, or try yours on another computer to test it.

Try reseating your video card. Most have a fan on them, maybe it worked its WAY loose.

If you still get nothing, I'd have to LEAN toward a mobo failure since it's not just video, but your keyboard and mouse as well.

hi guys, i am a little puzzled as to why pc's turn off and restart while the pc is in use can anybody SHED any light on this, i have changed GRAPHICS,memory, sound cards, although i dont think that any of these are the problem i thought taht there could be a bad connection somewhere. the prolem still persists?this has happened to a couple of pc's latley and i am now offically stuck.
Many thanks
all the best
regards
MattControl Panel / System/Advanced/Startup and Recovery...uncheck "auto restart on errors"
Now you will get BSOD's instead of restarts...post the error messages here.Well, that depends. If the mobo has an overheating protection program in the Bios it could be getting shutdown from there. Had a MSI board that had that nifty feature.
/shrug Either way, his response should narrow it down a bit.I had this problem before. It SOUNDS like either your power SUPPLY is done, or the RAM is jam packed full of errors. I suggest running a RAM test on each stick for about 4-5 hours to see if that is the problem.

Quote from: contrex on May 31, 2007, 12:45:57 AM

Prime95 errors sure sound like RAM /CPU. This page, "Torture Test Your CPU With Prime 95" says that if you cannot decide whether the CPU or the RAM are causing the errors...

http://www.playtool.com/pages/prime95/prime95.html

Well worth reading through.

Quote

It's just not that easy to completely isolate the problem which causes Prime95 to fail. It's usually the CPU but sometimes it's something else. The only way to be 100% sure is to swap in replacement components until the problem is fixed. You just have to do as many tests as you can to make your best guess about which component is responsible before deciding which one to replace or adjust.

To help you make that guess...

Quote

When Prime95 fails in any way, the very first thing you should do is run a memory test to rule that possibility out. MemTest86 is a very thorough memory testing program. If your memory passes the tests then you're pretty much down to the CPU and the CPU/RAM interface as the most likely causes although there are some other possibilities.

And,

Quote

If you have the kind of CPU which accesses its RAM by COMMUNICATING with a northbridge chip on the motherboard, then your CPU is probably the problem but the northbridge could ALSO be responsible. The RAM data is passed in both directions between the CPU and northbridge and if the northbridge is a little weak, it may have problems communicating with a hot CPU. If you're not sure what to blame then you can try running only the "small FFTs" test. It does very few RAM accesses while running the test. If it fails, then it's very likely to be the CPU which is at fault. Unfortunately, that's not 100% guaranteed because even the small FFTs test still accesses RAM and does other things like read and write disk files.

It also mentions as another possibilty, overheating CPU. You are happy with heatsink size, placement, thermal contact, etc? Are you monitoring temps?

• Motherboard: Foxconn P4M800P7MA-RS2
  
• CPU: Pentium D 915 Socket T (LGA775)
  
• RAM (according to CPU-Z): 1024mB, PC2-4300, (266MHz, rated 533?) Micron Technology but Corsair on sticker.

• Problems
  
• Downloading and/or installation/extraction errors with archives and moderately large .exe installers (~>5-10mB?, I know the nVidia driver never works, 35mB).
• Fails stability tests and reportedly has crashes/reboots WITHOUT warning when playing moderate CPU intense games (HALO).
• Remember none, to my knowledge, of these errors have ever been replicated when running a Celeron D
  
  
• Changed
  
• Swapped RAM DIMM after recommendation from CPU seller after CPU was returned and returned... with no errors reported.
• Swapped PSU to 430W with 20+4
• Changed HDDs and IDE cables
• Ran Memtest68+ and Seatools/CHKDSK
• Changed BIOS settings, disabled C1E EIST, reverted to Fail-safe defaults AND downflashed bios to previous revison.

Finally, here are some queries, why does CPUZ report 266mhz ram when the sticker clearly states 533 and the motherboard supports that.

Why are these errors not replicated with Celeron D processor?

contrex, any chance you can add me on MSN?: [emailprotected]

Quote

Why are these errors not replicated with Celeron D processor?

Quote from: DeltaSlaya on May 31, 2007, 02:44:03 AM

Finally, here are some queries, why does CPUZ report 266mhz ram when the sticker clearly states 533 and the motherboard supports that.

The "DDR" in "DDR RAM" stands for Double Data Rate. The clock is doubled for the RAM. 2 x 266 = 533 near enough. Actually Googling for recommended RAM shows that 400 MHz RAM is good enough for that board.

512MB Foxconn Motherboard PC3200 DDR400 nonECC DIMM (p/n FOXCONN-512-PC3200-D) $49.98

http://www.memoryx.net/fop4modme.html

Note that's nonECC

Why are these errors not replicated with Celeron D processor?

Whats that supposed to mean?

Any other ideas for fixing the problem?

Quote

Why are these errors not replicated with Celeron D processor?

Quote

Quote

Whats that supposed to mean?

That's "supposed to mean" that my round yellow head has a sad expression and three question marks hovering over it, because I don't know the answer. Were you getting snippy there? If you were, I strongly advise against it. On free help forums, that attitude can get interpreted as ingratitude, both by the people who have tried to help you already, and those who were thinking about doing so. It can have a very powerful reducing effect on further efforts!

Quote

Any other ideas for fixing the problem?

That underlining could be interpreted the same way. Maybe I'm wrong, in which case I apologise.

... fixing ...

Maybe I'm wrong, in which case I apologise.

My idea would be to return the RAM and get Foxconn recommended sticks,

... and if they don't work, send the mobo back.

... Or send the lot back and buy a Dell.

no worries mate!!!

I have just found that some boards actually do not support ECC DIMMs as they could potentiality exceed the current limitation of the memory voltage regulators. This could give rise to erratic memory performance. A lot of Intel boards are like that.

Your board supports

Single channel, unbuffered, 1.8V DDR2-400/533; (2) 240-pin DIMM sockets, max 2GB

- or -

single channel, unbuffered, 2.5V DDR266/333/400, (2) 184-pin DIMM sockets, max 2GB

(**use one memory type or the other, not both)

http://www.anitec.ca/product/5549/

That other memory site quoted a Foxconn part number for non-ecc RAM.

If your RAM is ECC and buffered it could be out of spec for that board.

• An atapi.sys IRQA_DRIVER_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL or something similar
• A win32k.sys (don't remember name exactly)

When I GO to boot it, it does a RAM count and tires to detect the HardDrive. Then I while its doing that I get a error from the color coded lights on the BACK saing that the RAM need to be reseated or an error with the video card. Then everythings okay but I have an error on the screen NDLTR is missing. But I know that HardDrive good cause I ran it on another system. Quote from: squall_01 on May 29, 2007, 06:54:26 AM

I know that HardDrive good cause I ran it on another system.

I formated the drive and install XP. ... Because I was unable to format it and I'm still unable to see it.

Hi guys im a newbie here so please go lightly on me

My question is

I was given a new computer system which has win vista on it, with as far as i can see an 80gb hd
My old system which has win xp on it has a 160 gb hd can i add this to my new system to make a bigger hd and also should i if i can add the old one to the new one, delete all the files on the old one and whats the best way to do that so i dont have any probs when i use the old in the new system

hope you can make sense of this guys

and if anyone can help can i say thanks in advance for it Jumper your old drive as a slave. Add it to your new computer. If recognized by Vista...just format the drive and it will be ready for whatever you need.

Just make sure this is what you want to do. If the old 160GB drive has XP on it...once it's formatted...that operating system, as well as the contents of the drive, will be gone.As saviour said, slave the second HDD. If vista recognizes it, be sure to copy over anything you want to keep before you format it, since this will wipe everything on that drive.

If you're really green and don't KNOW what it means to "slave" a drive, read on:

There are a set of 7-9 pins on your HDD that will have a little plastic and metal piece on it. This peice is just big enough to cover 2 of the pins. This is the jumper. There should be a legend on the HDD that shows how that jumper needs to be placed to set the drive as master, slave or cable select. Make sure the HDD that's already in the computer is set to master, then set the other to slave and attach it to the same cable as the other HDD. Hi guys

thanks for the quick response

The old hd looks different to the one in the new computer it says it is a sata drive and the old one is an ata drive the new one doesnt have all the pins you say it should

So is this a prob now to fit the old one with the new one
The computer system is a dell
the cables coming of the new one is a blue cable it conects to the main board and the other is a multicloured cable which i think is power cable

so if you guys could help me once more id be gratefull

lmao *


update.... wasn't trying to be rude, just thought kinda funny....when u mention "sata" drive it KINDA changes all the help they were trying to give you*please explain your answer
ATA and SATA are not the same. You will need to look up your model on the Dell site and see if the MOTHERBOARD has IDE connectors. If it does, you will need to use the cable from your old computer and connect the drive to the IDE connector. You probably won't need to change the jumper.Quote from: honvetops on July 02, 2007, 10:46:57 AM

lmao *


update.... wasn't trying to be rude, just thought kinda funny....when u mention "sata" drive it KINDA changes all the help they were trying to give you*

When I am playing games, usually just free online games, or trying to watch a video on my computer, a loud alarm will start after about 5-10 minutes. It comes from the computer tower and sounds alot like my annoying alarm clock. On at least 3 occasions its started alarming in the middle of the night when I'm not even using it.

I've had this computer about 6 years and its only started doing this in the last few months. I'm not doing anything more on it now than I was when it was new.

My computer was a custom built gift and uses Win XP Pro. Other than that I'm lost. Any suggestions to stop this alarm so I can enjoy a game or an entire movie in peace would be greatly appreciated.

(and btw, I'm not very savvy on all the abbreviations and terminology, so if it could be explained in "old folks" language I'd be most grateful) Can you please describe the alarm...

Is it a series of beeps? How many short beeps and how many long beeps?The best way I know describe it is like the beeping of an alarm clock. They are all the same length and continue until I shut the computer completely down. Only twice have they just stopped within a few minutes of starting up. Both of those times I had shut down the game and was in the process of shutting down the computer. The sounds definately come from the tower and not the speakers because I usually shut the speakers off if I'm playing late at night.

thanks for the reply.Please give us a detailed list of your sytem's specs...

We'll need info like:

1) Operating system
2) Computer manufacturer and model
3) CPU (processor)
4) Amount of RAM installed
5) Power Supply (wattage)
6) Motherboard
7) Graphics card
Etc., etc.

The alarm you're experiencing may be hardware related...there may be an overheating issue that needs to be addressed.

We'll wait for your specs and get back to you...Keyboard has a stuck key.
Computer has a password.

Continuous Beep
No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
for The Savior:

my system was "custom" built...meaning a friend of my brother's built it about 4 or 5 years ago ( I think ) and my bro gave it to me as a christmas present (cool bro )

It uses Microsoft XP Pro 2002 , which is most likely a copy of his xp since I've never been able to update it correctly and don't have an original XP disk. The version says its 5.1.2600 Service Pack 2 Build 2600

system manufacturer is listed as NVIDIA and model is listed as AWRDACPI

Under System Properties - AMD Athlon(tm) XP 1900+
1.47 GHz, 448 MB of RAM

total physical memory 512 MB
available physical memory 84.46 MB
total virtual memory 2.0 GB
available Virtual Memory 1.96 GB
page file space 1.35 GB

power supply - computer is plugged into a 6 outlet surge protector in a standard wall plug

I know there's a graphics card but I'm not smart enough to know its name or where to find it. And the only thing I saw about the motherboard was in system tools/system info that said.... " Device - motherboard resources, Status - OK.

Anything else you need, please tell me where to look for it and I'll get it to you as quick as I can.
THANK YOU!!!



For Spero-T:
no stuck keys on the keyboard, and since I'm the only one the ever uses this one I've never put a password on it. The beeps are a series, like " beeeep beeep beeep...etc." going on forever or until shutdown. No power only when I turn it off...loose card is possible since I have moved the desk around, and I can only hope its not a short since the guy that built it is no longer available and his rates were the best (free)


Thanks for responding!


i believe this is definitely a heat issue, as my tower, with a MSI 648-f NEO-L Motherboard, Beeps with an alarm type noise when my CPU fan is either not plugged in or not detected, and also when above the warning temperature in the BIOS. I believe mine is set to 60 Degrees and if yours is set higer this may be really bad. It may simply be yours is set to around 50 Degrees which is ACCEPTABLE for CPU under full load. (Mine can reach 60 Degrees while transcoding a AVI into a DVD disk. Try and run a program such as H-Monitor http://www.hmonitor.net/ While playing a game and when the alarm sound starts, quickly quit and check the temperature of your CPU and post it back here To Kurtiskain:

Took your suggestion. I got the alarm much faster this morning, but its warmer in the room now than when I usually play.

Here's what I've got:

Mainboard = 36.0C
CPU = 48.0C
TEMP 3 = 75.0C (this one started out red, before I ever started playing)

HDD Temp = 37.0C

Voltages: +12V = 11.67v , +5v = 4.95v , Core = 1.63v , +3.3v = 3.3v

-12v = 11.63v , -5v = 5.05v , Aux +1.63v

Temps taken immediately upon alarm sounding. Once I quit the game, it stopped within about 15-20 seconds, just about the time I got this reply window up.

Thank you! This is a heat issue.
Clean your computer following the steps described here.
And to find out what graphics card you have - start - run - type dxiag - press enter - display.
Then info is displayed, it's what's under Name that you want.THANK YOU!!!! I'm shutting down and will follow the directions you refered me to. I'll LET you know how it works. Let us know how it goes, good luck.WOW!!! After taking apart my tower (and donning a hazmat suit ) I spent several HOURS slowing cleaning out my computer. And finally played a game to its completion with NO ALARM!!!
Also moved the tower so that its not so enclosed and gets BETTER air circulation around it. I'm still getting "red zone" temps showing in the TEMP 3 and the -12v and -5v. Is this something I need to worry about? And if not, then hopefully, this fixed my problem.

Thanks so much for all the help!!You could always consider adding another case fan to improve circulation.

Can anyone tell me why lines would appear on a my copies after, ink CARTRIDGES have been changed? My boss would like to KNOW. Could be a few different things.

What OS are we working with here?
Hooked up to a NETWORK?
Have you cleaned out the printer in case of blockage? The nozzles could be clogged.
What's the exact model?
Do you have the latest driver installed?
Does this happen with ALL documents?
How long has this been happening?
Has it EVER worked before?

This morning, my computer just died. After fooling around with it, it was apparent that the power supply died. I salvaged a (lesser) power supply from my kids computer, and when I plugged everything in and turned it on, all the fans and lights came on like normal. But, the monitor won't come on. When I have the computer off, the monitor displays the message "No Input - Check Cable Connection", but when I turn the computer on, the monitor goes down. The LED goes from green to amber (the same as it would if it were connected properly and I turned of the computer). Could it be that the new PS I put in isn't powerful enough to sufficiently run the video output? It worked fine on my kids computer... Anyone?It would help if we knew what kind of power supply you had before, what kind you salvaged from the kids' computer, and what kind of video card you have. it is QUITE possible that you need to buy a new power supply.
You're right, I'm sorry. In my haste (frustration) to post this, I neglected the basics.

My old PS was an Raidmax ATX 12V 420W. The one I put in from my kids computer is a HiPro HP-K1603A3. From what I can tell, the max wattage is 157W, obvioulsy much less power. Would this give the symptoms I am getting?Quote from: harty001 on May 31, 2007, 10:20:18 AM

You're right, I'm sorry. In my haste (frustration) to post this, I neglected the basics.

My old PS was an Raidmax ATX 12V 420W. The one I put in from my kids computer is a HiPro HP-K1603A3. From what I can tell, the max wattage is 157W, obvioulsy much less power. Would this give the symptoms I am getting?

Hi, I am trying to install a SEAGATE 500gb sata hard drive, to be used as the primary drive, using a Vantec PCI card. The card & hard drive show up on the screen during the POST, but I never have been able to see it recognized in the BIOS(Award Modular BIOS V 6.0). I have a Gigabyte GA81dx F10 motherboard, Intel 845 AGP, P4, 1.6ghz, 1.5gb RAM trying to put XP SP2 on it. There is no brand on the computer, it was an old ONE from work.
Anyway, I have now been able to install Windows onto the drive with 3 partitions on it. The problem came when it rebooted, it just keeps loading to the screen with options of safe boot, normal etc and then starts over. I am pretty sure it is going to something stupid but I can find no reason for this not to work. I can find nothing in the BIOS for SATA nor any settings. Here is a link to the motherboard page:
http://tw.giga-byte.com/Support/Motherboard/Manual_Model.aspx?ProductID=1349
If anyone has any ideas please let me know, I have all but given up. Thank you in advance. Karen Ok, so, first question, was your last hard drve SATA, or was it IDE?
Maybe there's something wrong with the card rather than the hard drive, like a poor connection. If your last hdd was IDE, then did you buy the card new or used? In fact, was the hdd new or used when you bought it?
Also, you motherboard isn't going to say anything about SATA, remember, your motherboard wasn't built for it, that's why you need the card. i'm not sure what exactly what your screen will say, but go to the general hdd section, se if the settings are correcte, it'll still show up there.
someone else may come along who'll know exactly what this problem is, but unitl then, these are some basic things to look over.Thanks for getting back to me, Any,
The card & HD are both new. I have been using this computer for a couple of years now but my old IDE hd was filled up so I got the bright idea of putting a sata hd in & cloning my old drive to it. Well, I thought that worked but when I rebooted, once again problems; I got a failed boot disk. I then could not get my old hd to boot back up so I removed it & decided to do a fresh install. I finally found the correct drivers for the card when it came to installing the PCI card & was able to install Windows. When it came to partitioning, it saw my first partitions that I had put in but they were empty.(I wondered at that point how it could do the partitions if it is not seeing the drive.) So I successfully went through the 39 mins of installing windows but when it rebooted, that is when it gets to the reboot normally screen & no more.
In the Bios, there is no place to enable sata. So now I am at a stand still. Ok, so you just left the partions from beforehand? That's probably the issue here, even if it says they're empty, you should have deleted them when installing (i think you just highlight the partion, press L, and then enter to confirm, but it'll tell you anyways if i'm wrong). So if you did it right, when your installing it should only show the one unpartioned space to install into.
In BIOS i was just suggesting going to the general HDD area, i know it won't have an SATA thing, but it should just say the name of your HDD, just check to make sure everything's normal.
So i know reinstalling it will seem a pain, but you don't have to sit at the computer the entire time, and you probably won't get another reply in the 39 mins, this is just sort of a casual form.OK, I'll try to reinstall everything. There is nothing in the BIOS about the hard drive, during POST it recognizes the card and then the hard drive. So here goes again. Thanks.Now I can't load Windows because setup did not find any hard drives! It didn't give me the option to install special drivers nor anything about partitioning. I tried using the utility cd for the hard drive but it did not stop for it, the computer just rebooted again. This is really BECOMING a pain. Any thoughts?Well, now you know why windows wasn't booting at least. Somehow it's not DETECTING the hard drive even though you already installed windows on it. Here, i just realized your BIOS are in your original post, i'll check them out just to see if there might be something else useful in there evenSorry, thought i'd replied already, second time that's happened now.
My best suggestion at this point is that you should put in both your old and new hard drive. Install windows on your old one, install anything you need for your new one and then try installing windows once again on your new one.
I think it might be useful if we had a second opinion in here as wellwhen you install windows if your installing on a sata drive, you need the sata drivers. HA, ok, i have just read this, so IM just saying what i have seen, but, ive never done this, so im not much help. when you boot windows, it will say at first, push ** (some key< ) to install any extra drivers. im not sure, but thats when you put in the floppy sata drivers. i have never installed windows to a sata drive. heres a website i only have a sata cd drive. http://www.alexnolan.net/articles/installxpsata.htm There you go, simple enough

My son has a dell 4300 with an 80 gb HARDRIVE. He wanted more drive space so I put a 160 GB hardrive in(Western Digital Caviar SE). When it boots up I get a screen that says Secondary drive not reconized, But the primary list both drives. I know I hooked everything up right, Not sure about jumpers. Do you have to have jumpers on both hardrives? I noticed the old 80gb drive has 4 PRONGS where the jumper go's and the new one has 5. The OS is windows XP, And I want to make the new Hardrive the Master the old slave if I can do that. By the way, I pressed the F-2 button and turned the hardrives on or to Auto.IDE or Sata? Make the drive with your OS the master (the 80 gb). Your new drive will be the slave. This is done by using the jumpers on the back of the drive. Once you can successfully boot into windows, you will probably have to format the new drive before you can start using it.On almost all hard drives there is a legend telling you how to set the jumpers to make one master or slave etc. The ORIGINAL drive needs to be jumpered Master w/slave present and the new one jumpered as slave.
The master should be at the end of the ribbon cable with the slave on the middle connector.

As always when working inside the CASE remove all power sources and take anti-static PRECAUTIONS....

installed samsung 205bw software e1705 primary screen blank samsung became primary

LAPTOP is a Seco Epson 17.2 inch monitor, blacked out when we installed the drivers for the samsung 205Bw - Samsung to be SECONDARY monitor is now ONLY monitor - no laptop even on BATTERIES! Laptop is a Dell Inspiron E1705 with nVidia 7800, 2 gig RAM - can't 'see' the BIOs to correct the settings- total frustration.

I know - should have used plug-n-play, what can I say - we were tired & brains OFF. The samsung works fine as secondary monitor on our other laptop (no drivers installed - used plug-n-play).

HELP - Samsung says it was a plug-n-play monitor (but doesn't say on paperwork), Dell says 'send it in & we'll fix it - for a fee', nVidia says they only make the chip set - Dell makes the video card. My, aren't we all covered - except this dumb customer....

nosliw in deep dew-dewI'm back with a sad tale, have sent the machine back to Dell twice. First time they installed a new screen only (charged for screen & mb). At this point we'd uped our service contract, 3 year guarantee on the whole machine (charge
@$299). Machine came back and d__ thing blue screened me 10 or 12 times within 2 weeks, found someone to track what was really done, ie no new mb installed so got ready to send it back again. When the packing box arrived there was an extra box - & in it was a NEW screen & a NEW motherboard - what, is this now a do-it-yourself repair? Sent both BOXES back , one to repair station the other to where ever it came from...

It's been maybe 3 weeks and YESTERDAY I had 2 blue screens... will this never cease. Tried to check on my service - online there's no record of us having extended warranty -- Time to get paperwork straight etc

Oh, and did I mention, machine hasn't supported 2 screens since first 'fix'?....

Pam - I feel a cold winter coming...

Anyone know where I COULD get a U3 command prompt? U3 programs are specially packaged programs for U3 flash drives. I also wouldn't mind learning how to package U3 programs, so if anyone knows, any guidance would be greatly appreciated.Google is the solution to all problems~ google...no problem*

http://www.vsj.co.uk/articles/display.asp?id=609

J P Thanks, should've thought about Google... I'll see if I can make a U3 friendly Command Prompt, I've seen screen shots of it in U3 articles, so I think it can be done.honvetops, that animated signature of yours is really annoying!
It's not part of his signature, it's above the line.Though I have to agree with you, it is very obnoxious.Quote from: Computer_Hopeless on July 01, 2007, 10:38:34 AM

It's not part of his signature, it's above the line.Though I have to agree with you, it is very obnoxious.

Hi, i tryed to install a NEW hdd, but the computer did not reconized it. so i decide not to install it. i install the old hdd back and every thime i load it takes me to setup first. the MESSAGE is" hardware monitor found an error enter power set up menu for detail. i could boot. im ABLE to get to windows if i hit f1 it just that at the boot it WONT take me directly to window but to the setup. the os is windows xp

thanksdid you save the setting,if yes and it still happened,
it should be the CMOS battery,change it.BTW...did the new hard DRIVE come with installation software?

If you bought it new...it should have software for you to use to get it installed.

What is the make and model of your new hard drive?

Hi,
I'm rather new in this area of assembling a computer from scratch, as in from the individual PARTS of the PC. As I'm GOING to CHANGE computer, I was thinking of changing it to a GAMING computer. I seriously need some suggestions on what do I have to put in for a gaming computer to enhance my gaming experiences. The budget is AROUND 2.5k in SGD (Approx 1.5k US).

Thank you.

I wonder if cpu speeds are the SET at the true full potential of cpu or just what is the optimal to insur contiual operation and avoid a warranty replacement?Please, explain your question a bit better.
Exactly what do you want to know?Will overclocking a cpu a slight amount say a 10 % increase in speed( is this overly optimistic) damage a cpu(I use AMD) ? Ive been led to believe that manufacturers set the speed at the LOWER end of a processors potential so as to not risk overheating them,etc. Or are the speeds given by manufactures truely what the processors are the optimally designed to run at. In automotive engines,the engines put out x HORSEPOWER based on AVERAGE potential. With some modifacations and some tweaking most engines will put out at least another 10-30% of horsepower.You can overclock a CPU, but the speed it is sold at (stock speed) is what it has been designed for.
Past that speed, there is no guarantee that it will not be damaged.
Overclocking can get you a good increase in speed for free, but you must be extremely careful.
If you GO too far or too fast, you risk frying the CPU and/or other components.
It depends on the CPU and cooling, as well as the room temperature, as to how far you can overclock.
Does that go some way towards answering your question?

Hey all, hope you guys can help me out.

I've owned the AMD Quad FX platform for some time now and I think i'm READY to bump it up to liquid cooling. The thing is, I dont know what to get exactly. I've GOT the ASUS L1N64-SLI WS Dual Socket L (Socket 1207FX) motherboard and i'm trying to find a liquid cooling SOLUTION that will accomodate for the amount of sockets and the socket type. The thing is F socket is a server type socket and its very hard to find anything that supports F socket specifically. However i've had unconfirmed rumors that F socket is very similar to the AM2 socket or the 940 socket USED by Opteron processors. I just dont want to buy something that wont work. So any help would be much appreciated.

Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131146

Processor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103864go to this page and read the "block compatibility" for each unit, there are some to choose from...........ie... [ FX Platform ]............

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=water+cooling&x=24&y=34

Ok, I'm going to be getting a new computer and I was WONDERING which computer is better for it's price and it's Gaming CAPABILITIES.
Ok here we go, there is only 2 COMPUTERS that I'm LOOKING at one has an AMD processor and the other has a Intel Processor.

Here is the First One which is the Intel one, which costs $1,365.
Processor:E6600
MOBO: Asus P5N32-E SLI S775 680I Atx Motherboard
HD:500Gb Sata2 7200Rpm
RAM:2 x 1Gb DDR2 800mhz
Graphics:320Mb 8800GTS PCI-E Dual Dvi,tv DDR3 Video
Optical Drives:Lightscribe DVD-RW Dual Layer 20x Ide Drive

Here is the Second One which is the AMD one, which costs $1,397
Processor:AM2 X2 6000 Dcore 64B
MOBO:Asus Crosshair NF590SLI Atx Motherboard
HD:500Gb Sata2 7200Rpm
RAM:2 x 1Gb DDR2 800mhz
Graphics:320Mb 8800GTS PCI-E Dual Dvi,tv DDR3 Video
Optical Drives:Lightscribe DVD-RW Dual Layer 20x Ide Drive

Thanks For The Help. I want to try to get the best system. For the Intel one you can upgrade the CPU to E6700 for $100 more. Just a quick note. Thx
the only question you need to ask yourself, what am I ?

INTEL or AMD < I'm not to sure!. I don't really know to much about them. I know intel takes up less energy and that stuff. But thats about it. Core2Duo is also talked about more.. Help me out guys/girls!Well the advantage to the Intel setup is the lastest motherboard drivers (680i SLI) and the 4MB cache on the CPU.

The advantage to the AMD setup is the sheer power of the processor (3.0 Ghz) and the fact that AMD processors generally run faster at lower clock frequencies to begin with. Also the mobo on the AMD setup is fairly up to date as well.

The Intel has more potential when it comes to overclocking and the 4mb cache is a great edge but if you dont plan on overclocking having the AMD CPU works well instead.

Overall its like the other guy said your either an Intel guy or AMD guy, both setups will run pretty well. James was very eloquent, I would rather say, they both KICK *censored* !

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi
I'm RUNNING windows xp and I have a mac formated hard drive wich i open with macdrive software.
I was organizing my files and I moved one folder to another folder then I GOT some error message and then all my files dissapeared. When I go to properties it sais there is used space excactly the same amount there was before so i think the files are STILL there I just can't see them.
I tried enabeling "view hidden files and folder" I still can't see them and I tried searching all the DRIVES on the computer for the files but that didn't help either.
Pleeease Help I really need those files ASAP!

what did the error message say?

I don't remember
somthing like cannot read source disk
i'm not SURE though

Hi guys it's been a long time how are you peeps?.

i have been iven a mobo :-N4-IBFGL v1.3(GV) it's a 478
2 probs thee is no HOUSING for the fan to SIT in where can i buy 1 from?
i have tried the standard 478 housing but it will not fit the holes on the mobo are much closer together than the standard 478,

i am also having problems locating the manual for this mobo
If you could point me in the right direction it would be much APPRECIATED
Many thanks
all the best
I like to buy from this website.

NCIX

Who MAKES the MBoard ? ?

I've been building a computer for my friend and it's been smooth sailing so far, but I'm having some real trouble with two USB devices of mine.

I first loaded a video driver onto his computer using a flash drive of mine. USB 2.0 wasn't installed yet but it still allowed me to move the file. Now however, my flash drive won't work on any other computer I plug it into.

And just now, I tried plugging a wireless mouse (that has been working fine in the motherboard USB slot) into a case-USB port. It recognized that SOMETHING was plugged in, but it still wouldn't work. Now, the mouse wont work on any other computer either!

Why is his computer doing this to my hardware? Is there any way to regain the functionality of my thumb drive or mouse? Please help.welcome to CH forums.

it would help to tell us what OS and SERVICE Pack (if windows) he/she is using.

also, have you tried going to control panel and clicking new hardware (or add hardware)?

you might be required to install the drivers again.

if you can't locate the driver setups, try surfing the internet for your mouse's or mem.stick's company website. they should have driver downloads available.When I first used my flash stick on his computer, it was XP Pro without Service Pack 2.

When I tried using the wireless mouse with the case USB port it was also XP Pro but SP2 was installed by that time.

I've tried add hardware, but nothing I do can make any computer find either the thumb drive or the wireless mouse. I'm going to check the company websites like you said though, I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks.Alright, since he doesn't HAVE to have the front USB ports on the case, he's decided to just ignore them for now and worry about them later.

However, my mouse and flash drive still can't be recognized by any computer I try them on. I couldn't find anything in the way of a driver for my flash stick.

http://www.sandisk.com/Products/Item(1919)-SDCZ6-1024-A10-SanDisk_Cruzer_Micro_1GB_Black.aspx

I did GET Kensington's Mouseworks for the mouse, but it doesn't show anything plugged in and I can't seem to find anything to make it work. I would really hate to have to shell out money for new hardware right now, any help you can provide would be very much appreciated.Quote from: cydonia on September 08, 2007, 11:21:20 PM

Now however, my flash drive won't work on any other computer I plug it into.

Now however, my flash drive won't work on any other computer I plug it into.




doesn't that mean your flash drive already dead?

I have never heard of it but it is possible

A USB cable has four wires in it. 2 carry data and 2 carry the 5v power. http://computer.howstuffworks.com/usb4.htm

If the connection from the mobo to the USB port was somehow botched then the power could go down the data lines and spike devices.

Well later on in the future, I am going to build a computer for my brother (High-End) and I would like to know which CPU you guys think I should get, the AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ (3.0GHz) or the AMD Athlon FX-62? (2.8GHz)

P.S. Please dont tell/suggest to me to get the Intel Core 2 Duos. Or anything Intel. (No I dont have a PROBLEM with them, I am MAKING a computer that is AMD/ATI for my brother and Intel/Nvidia for myself.)To be honest...I won't say what you don't want me to say...EVEN though I probably would.

Anyway...They are both Athlon and pretty much the same except for speed. If you want faster processing speeds...go with your first choice.

My pc will not open windows. After boot up the message will appear. " Explorer exe is missing. How to solve this problem?ok,did you have any anti VIRUS / spyware?
did you UPDATE them?
can you run in safe mode?
based on my experience,.exe files always been ATTACK by virus,sometimes corrupted.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306599
that's why you need to have anti virus,here the one that i used
http://www.avira.com/en/download/index.html

Do you have the original Windows CD? Which version of Windows is it?

Quote from: xpl1c1t on May 31, 2007, 03:38:31 PM

dude , ur not funny okay, so just stfu... and im not going to buy the cd...

im askiing if there's an alternative...

Jesus ... decent computer wizz's would actually try to help... and say something constructive to do...

Jesus ... decent computer wizz's would actually try to help... and say something constructive to do...

xpl1cit,
Please take the attitude down a couple of notches. It may be welcome over at 12chan, but not here. In case you haven't noticed, people are taking time out of their schedules to provide you with FREE help. Show a BIT of decency, eh? With the way you type, your posts aren't exactly easy to follow.

To install drivers, the hardware doesn't need to be recognized first. In fact, installing drivers is usually what allows the computer to recognize your hardware. Like street1 said, remove any instance of your video card in Add/Remove Programs. Double-click on whatever driver you downloaded (hopefully the correct one) and tell it to install. Once that's complete, reboot your computer and see if it will detect the video card.

hi i am having problem with my pc. i built it few months back and i have had freezing issues. my computer would randomly freeze while windows updating, downloading, surfing the internet, etc.

i talked with my RAM manufacturer and they said that the ram might not be fully compatible with my MOBO. they told me to increase the voltage for my ram. i did from 1.9v to 2.0v and it actually worked, but i still freeze a couple of times a week. i tried TALKING to the mobo manufacturer and they told me to update bios or try new ram. i bought new ram for it, but im still having problems, but i actually havent updated bios yet.

my question is: is my freezing related to bios being outdated? would updating it solve my freezing problem?

here are my other issues:
i cant use more than 2gb of ram. when i use 3 i get program crashes and when i use 4gb, i blue screen (bsod). i ALSO noticed that putting one stick of ram on the 3rd memory slot gives me bsod.

could there be something wrong with this mobo? if there is, can i just change my mobo and use the same other parts, would i have to reinstall windows?

thanks

pny 8800gtx
intel core2quad q6600 2.4ghz
gskill ram and corsair ram
western digital 250gb hd
ecs nforce 650i sli
vista home PREMIUM 641st of all,are you sure it freeze wasn't because of overheat?how long will it be fine until it's freeze?When you attach your processor to the mainboard,did you apply any thermal grease?see here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_greaseim pretty sure my temps are fine. i use speed fan and it says my cpu runs around 30-45

and actually i can play GAMES at max settings for hours and its no problem.

my computer freezes sometimes when:
i leave it on overnight
leave it on with downloads overnight
updating windows
just randomly too sometimes

also it freezes when it gets to the loading screen of vista or right when i get on desktop. so i sometimes would have to reset my system 2-6 times before i can get on desktop and do thingsOnboard NIC or an add on card for your network connection ? ?what about them?

i have updated them to latest version from nvidia.

now i actually did a windows update and it seriously screwed up my system. now it makes my computer freeze bigtime. any ideas?have you check device manager?
take out all of the part,just leave the basic (keyboard,mouse),see if its happen,
use the ram that you sure fine
take out the nic & add on card,disconnect internet.
give it a try.....Does this happen in safe mode ? I just re-read your original post...which RAM manuf. told you to fool around with the RAM voltages ? ?actually i talked with gskill. they told me that their ram had issues with nforce 650i boards. so they told me to increase my voltage which actually made the system more stable.

i tried corsair ram and it was the same thing, kept giving me freezes.

and now, i think i may have good news. i bought a new motherboard and swapped it to my old one. i bought a gigabyte ga-p35-ds3r/s3r board, and right now everything seems great. i even have 4gb of ram now that i couldnt use with my ecs 650i board.

i guess my old motherboard was broken from the very beginning.

thanks for your help guysGood to hear you are fixed up...don't give gskill any more of your business.actually g skill is pretty good, im using 4gb of their ram right now.

its the ecs mobo that was defective, and their support was useless. so i will be staying away from them.

Hi

I recently increased my hard drive CAPACITY by adding another HD. (I have a HP computer with WIN XP)

Can anyone tell me if it is a good idea to move the Program FILE directory form the old drive to the new one, instead of re-downloading all the programs.

I appreciate your help

hliorNo, this will not WORK.
If you want to have your programs on a different HDD, you must uninstall them, and install them again to the new drive.
Hope this helps.you can clone one drive to another with software like Norton Ghost.
Quote from: contrex on June 01, 2007, 07:14:47 AM

you can clone one drive to another with software like Norton Ghost.

Hello,
I recently was given an old compaq desk pro with a 233 mhz Pentium II processor, I then upgraded it to 512mb of RAM, 120gb HARD DRIVE, new Case, New Fans, Pentium III 555mhz, and Windows xp Home. I kept the motherboard. It ran fine for a LITTLE but then windows gave me a message that my BIOS didnt match the processor. I then decided to take the motherboard that mached the processor to eliminate the problem. It didnt work, i then decided to put the older motherboard back in, now the LED on the mother board will turn on but my power supply fan wont turn on and non of my attached devices will eather (dvd drive, hard drive, fans, ect.)


please Help
LtRyan5184You're lucky it ran at all with that motherboard. I hope you didn't damage it. You NEED to use F10 (if available and working) to reset the Setup to your current configuration. Some of those old Deskpro's had the setup on a second HIDDEN partition. This was made by a downloaded file from the Compaq site.Thanks

Ok first off I would like to explain to you guys what happened in the last topic. I am posting on behalf of my brother who posted in the other topic, and I would like to apologise for his actions.

Him waiting for me to get off of work to fix it plus his anxiousness to play a game he bought has caused him to snap at you guys. I guess he thought the CD detected the video card. I had a 5 minute chat with him and told him not to jump to conclusions and get mad at people who are giving out a free serivce.

Anyway I was working on the problem today and IM still stumped on it. I will explain this in as much detail as I possibly can. I am trying to install drivers for my ati radeon 9800 pro. I keep getting a bunch of different errors.

When I try to install the catalyst drivers found on the ati/amd site, i get a error that I should install VGA drivers and try agian. When I try to install the omega drivers I get the same error. I tried to do force vga drivers opon the video card yesterday but a different error came up, maybe it was because I was in a rush and messed up. Ill try again .

I also tried cleaning my old drivers with some driver cleaning program, no luck. I also tried deleting the hardware from the devices tab in control panel and reinstalling, no luck. Ive tried installing it manually, using the find new hardware then searching for drivers, no luck (I got some "cant write files" error)

I think one problem may be that I still have onboard video card still running because I couldnt disable it in BIOS cause sony is gay , so if all else fails i might force windows to somehow disown the onboard graphic card.

Ill try forcing vga again and once again I apologise for any hate that was shown by my brother earlier.

What really stumps me is I can see everything normal (colours are perfect) and the standard vga driver is installed, but it doesnt reconise any card. Its hard to explain so ill post the dxdiag log file. Heres what my display device shows as, and im sure its still connected because my monitor is connected to the slot of my ati card, not the onboard card

Quote

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name:
Manufacturer:
Chip type:
DAC type:
Device Key: Enum\
Display Memory: n/a
Current Mode: 1024 x 768 (32 bit) (1Hz)
Monitor:
Monitor Max RES:
Driver Name: vga.dll
Driver Version: 5.01.2600.0000 (English)
DDI Version: unknown
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
Driver Date/Size: 8/29/2002 08:00:00, 9344 bytes
WHQL Logo'd: n/a
WHQL Date STAMP: n/a
VDD: n/a
Mini VDD: vga.sys
Mini VDD Date: 8/4/2004 00:07:08, 20992 bytes
Device Identifier: {D7B70EE0-4340-11CF-B063-282AAEC2C835}
Vendor ID: 0x0000
Device ID: 0x0000
SubSys ID: 0x00000000
Revision ID: 0x0000
Revision ID: 0x0000
Video Accel:
Deinterlace Caps: n/a
Registry: OK
DDraw Status: Not Available
D3D Status: Not Available
AGP Status: Not Available
DDraw Test Result: Not run
D3D7 Test Result: Not run
D3D8 Test Result: Not run
D3D9 Test Result: Not run

If its an Intel Card then you can access it from the desktop properties in win xp. try to disable it from there.

I have a latop that needs to be sent in for service. I purchased a LAPTOP to IDE Adapter cable to get some data off of the hard drive before I SEND it off to be repaired (since they may reformat my drive).

I inadvertently set my jumpers incorrectly, and according to the Hitachi documentation for my drive, I have grounded PIN C which makes the drive not spin on POR.

The drive is a Hitachi 80GN 40GB drive.

ANYONE out there know if this is a 'fixable' issue, or am I dead?

Thanks much!
You can just move the jumper to where it should be and it'll be OK.


I tried that, but i still get no spin on the drive. Could I have somehow shorted the power supply? The whole cable adapter kit CAME with a power supply/connector along with the IDE cables.


Where did you put the jumper?

I initially put the jumper on CD, but then changed it to AB. The instructions for the IDE adapter say to set the drive as a slave.did it have power while the jumper was on CD?

That's setting (5) - the one that says "never attach a jumper here"?


Yes, it did have power briefly while on CD. Unfortunately, I mis-read the picture on the hard drive itself as to where to place the jumper. I saw the picture you provided on the hitachi web site after the fact. Just my luck!
Power briefly is sometimes all it takes...That bit that says, "When Pin C is grounded..." clearly you must be able to do that without harming the drive... how is that done?

Hi All

I am currently running WINDOWS Vista on a Dell dimension 1100 with 1gb RAM and 2.79 GHZ Intel Celeron processor. I do not get the benefits of Windows Aero due to just having on board graphics (ie, no separate graphics card) so my 'Windows Experience Rating' is just 1.0.
I want to put a separate graphics card in not only to enjoy the 'Aero' experience but so that my system will run better as it does struggle at times when I have a lot of windows open.

To save me the trouble of taking the back off my computer, I went on the Dell website to see what spare slots I have in my PC and I have 3 spare PCI slots (apparently).

My question(s) is this - I have seen a lot of PCI Express cards available, so will a PCI express card go into a PCI slot or does it have to be JUST PCI?

I read somewhere that it is not ideal to have a PCI video card as a main video card - is this true, and if so, why?

Are there any other things I need to consider when buying a graphics card? Bearing in mind that I do want it to be able to run Windows Aero.

I have replaced a video card in my older computer but the technology moves so fast these DAYS that I think I have got left behind a bit!!

Any help would be appreciated.

Many thanks

LyndaQuote from: Lynswin on June 01, 2007, 07:30:49 AM

My question(s) is this - I have seen a lot of PCI Express cards available, so will a PCI express card go into a PCI slot or does it have to be JUST PCI?

I read somewhere that it is not ideal to have a PCI video card as a main video card - is this true, and if so, why?

Is it possible that I have PCI express slots and they have just called them PCI for short??!! Presumably the connections are different so if I open the PC I will see, won't I?

I am surprised if they are PCI slots as you say this is older technology but the PC is only about 12/18 months old? Does this seem right - has the technology moved that quickly?