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I had 19GB of HARD Disk SPACE on my computer and it SEEMS to have just disapeared, when I just the C drive I am left with only 1GB! I recently took it APART could I have accidently corrupted the hard drive by TOUCHING it???
HELP!?!

Why are you convinced it's not the PSU ? ?

X Power isn't a brand name that exactly instills confidence in me...

So a few weeks ago WINDOW smedia player works fine, few days later no sound so i rolled it back to WMP 9 adn that didnt work so i re-ninstalled 10 that dint work and 11 nothing either

Itunes, games, ETC. all work with sound fine

has ANYONE ran into this issue before im thinking its a setting but i CANT FIND an obvious one.More than likely settings. I don't use Windoze so I can't guide you through it. If you can't figure it out, just use realplayer or quicktime.Quote

More than likely settings. I don't use Windoze so I can't guide you through it. If you can't figure it out, just use realplayer or quicktime.

hi i my keyboard is very SLOW to send to monitor? I have tried both wireless and hardwired keyboards both with the same result. If you hold a key down, a beep from the computer the letter APPEARS on monitor in about 1 secondControl panel-------> keyboard settings....

You can change it there With the ton of information posted about the machine, OS and what happened prior to this i'm sure a quick FIX is right around the CORNER...

Please READ This...

Hey all first TIME here, hope someone can help with my problem.

So I have a Western Digital IDE 250g hard drive. On my last computer it worked fine, everything was happy and good.

Well, computer shot, got a new one:

ASUS M2N-SLI Deluxe AM2 NVIDIA nForce 570 SLI MCP ATX AMD Motherboard
EVGA 512-P2-N773-AR GeForce 8600GTS 512MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Windsor 3.0GHz Socket AM2 Processor Model ADX6000CZBOX
LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM WRITE Black SATA Model LH-20A1S
Kingston HyperX 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model KHX6400D2LLK2/2GN

Think that I only really need to list the motherboard for the problem, but anyhoo....

New compy has Vista on it. New motherboard has mostly SATA connections, but it does have 1 IDE. I was very happy to get it because of my old 250g still had files I needed.

I plugged in my old hard drive, went into the BIOS and it showed up, which I thought I was great.

I then started up Vista, and it basically was on the loading screen for about 2 MINUTES. I tried multiple times to load vista and it was just stuck on the loading screen. It usually only stays there for about 5 seconds. I had no clue what was happening.

There is no jumper on it, however it does show the hard drive as the Primary in the IDE lineup. Which I thought was fine considering my OS is on the SATA hard drive.

Any suggestions or comments on how I could make this work would be great. I just want to have the IDE hard drive on my computer so I can use it for storage of my larger files.

Thanks!


Was this HDD a data drive or did it have an OS on it?
What did you do when you put the old HDD into the new computer?
Does your new computer have a new HDD, you don't mention this so I'm GUESSING you haven't?

You also haven't stated if you done a fresh install when you got the new computer.

If the old HDD still has an OS on it you will need to remove it as the drivers/settings etc. will all be for your old computer. Suggest slaving it to another computer, backing up all inportant data then reformating it.
I've never seen a WD IDE hard drive that didn't have jumpers...it needs to be jumpered as slave and connected to the middle IDE connector.Quote from: GX44 on September 18, 2007, 05:46:29 AM

Was this HDD a data drive or did it have an OS on it?
What did you do when you put the old HDD into the new computer?
Does your new computer have a new HDD, you don't mention this so I'm guessing you haven't?

You also haven't stated if you done a fresh install when you got the new computer.

If the old HDD still has an OS on it you will need to remove it as the drivers/settings etc. will all be for your old computer. Suggest slaving it to another computer, backing up all inportant data then reformating it.

Quote from: GX44 on September 18, 2007, 05:46:29 AM

Was this HDD a data drive or did it have an OS on it?
What did you do when you put the old HDD into the new computer?
Does your new computer have a new HDD, you don't mention this so I'm guessing you haven't?

You also haven't stated if you done a fresh install when you got the new computer.

If the old HDD still has an OS on it you will need to remove it as the drivers/settings etc. will all be for your old computer. Suggest slaving it to another computer, backing up all inportant data then reformating it.

The hard drive is a data drive. The new computer has 2 new hard drives. I have done a fresh install of windows vista on my new computer. The OS for vista is located within a partition on one of the new hard drives.

I will try to connect the hard drive as a slave, will update in a bit.

YOu have to put the jumper on to the slave position. If you have an OS on the drive in question it will not load as a slave no matter what you do. I also do not know if Vista uses NTFS file system or if that is new, which could cause a conflict.

DLoad and run the diagnostics from the drive manuf. site...they are free.
Follow the instructions on creating a bootable CD and test that drive.

This is a very strange problem that hopefully someone can help me with. The keyboard i'm using will not let me type the same letter in a ROW quickly. I can repeat letters if I press something and then wait 2-3 seconds before typing it again, but that is very annoying. I have messed with the keyboard settings to no effect (I'm using Windows XP). The strange part about it is that I can repeat keys just fine when logged in as another user. I have 4 user accounts set up, and 3 work fine. It is just 1 of them that, when logged in, will not let me repeat keys. I also cannot hold down a KEY and have it repeat. It just sits there. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.You have likely turned on the Accessibility Option to prevent repeated keystrokes. To turn it off:

1. Click Start > Control Panel > Switch to Classic VIEW > Accessibility Options.

2. Clear the Use FilterKeys check box.

3. Under FilterKeys, click Settings.

4. Clear the Use Shortcut check box.

5. Click OK, Apply and OK.

Quote from: wverb0783 on October 02, 2007, 09:22:03 PM

I disconnect my flash DRIVE all the time with no PROBLEM. the key is that you have to click the safely remove hardware ICON in the notification area, and then remove the hardware.

I disconnect my flash drive all the time with no problem. the key is that you have to click the safely remove hardware icon in the notification area, and then remove the hardware.

Hi, I am having a problem. I have an automotive program that uses 10 dvd's. You only use one at a time. I have converted the discs to ISO's. I would like to mount all 10 images on my external hard drive. I would like to be able to take the hard drive with me to another computer and have this information. Two questions, Do I need to partition the drive FIRST, second, what software should I use? I have tried Daemon,NERO, Alcohol 120 And Poweriso. Everyone of them OFFERS virtual drives. But when you click on them, it always puts them on my C drive not on the external drive. How can I get the images mounted on an external drive?I am in work now so i cant check, but with deamon tool can you not right click and select what drive you want to mount the IMAGE to ? Lets get something straight here.
Daemon Tools (or any other virtual drive software for that matter) cant mount a disc image to a hdd drive, period! I.e. it doesn't mount the image to your c: drive, it mounts it to a "fake" CD/DVD drive that is installed by Daemon Tools.

So what you need to do, is move the 10 ISOs you have to the external hard drive along with a copy of Daemon Tools. Then when you hook it up to another computer, install Daemon Tools on the computer and mount the ISOs from the external hdd.
Job done.Nicely done Deerpark...
Thanks patio

I have recently bought a (new) ESystem laptop from PCWORLD. It's fine as a modest budget piece of kit but everytime I switch on I get a Russian boot screen splash for a couple of seconds before the Win XP boot routine display. Can anyone tell me how I can get rid of the Russian splash?My guess:

Your computer is using a Russian-made motherboard, or a motherboard with a BIOS with multi-language capability. See if you can press the key indicated in the Russian text to enter the BIOS setup and change the language to English.

The Russian for English is

[size=18][ch1040][ch1085][ch1075][ch1083][ch1080][ch1081][ch1089][ch1082][ch1086][/size]
If you need to translate other words in the BIOS Setup, this site might come in handy:

http://babelfish.altavista.com/tr

[size=18][ch1041][ch1086][ch1075] [ch1073][ch1083][ch1072][ch1075][ch1086][ch1089][ch1083][ch1086][ch1074][ch1083][ch1103][ch1077][ch1090][/size]I would NEVER buy an unknown brand laptop, regardless of price.

That brand cannot be located with Google. Bad sign #2.

PC World sells something from EI Systems, but again it is an unknown COMPANY.

http://www.pcreview.co.uk/forums/thread-520298.php

I would hope your operating system is authentic. Try using Microsoft update as soon as possible. CONTACT Microsoft pronto if ANY problems.[size=20][ch1061][ch1086][ch1088][ch1086][ch1096][ch1072][ch1103] [ch1080][ch1076][ch1077][ch1103] [ch1043] X 1[/size][size=20][ch1044][ch1088][ch1091][ch1075] [ch1087][ch1086][ch1084][ch1086][ch1097][ch1080]!

[ch1071] [ch1085][ch1077] [ch1084][ch1086][ch1075][ch1091] [ch1086][ch1089][ch1090][ch1072][ch1085][ch1086][ch1074][ch1080][ch1090][ch1100] [ch1087][ch1086][ch1075][ch1086][ch1074][ch1086][ch1088][ch1080][ch1090][ch1100] [ch1088][ch1091][ch1089][ch1089][ch1082][ch1086][ch1075][ch1086]![/size][size=20][ch1051][ch1102][ch1073][ch1086][ch1077] [ch1079][ch1076][ch1077][ch1089][ch1100] [ch1075][ch1086][ch1074][ch1086][ch1088][ch1080][ch1090] [ch1088][ch1091][ch1089][ch1089][ch1082][ch1086][ch1075][ch1086]?

[ch1071] [ch1085][ch1077] [ch1084][ch1086][ch1075][ch1091] [ch1087][ch1086][ch1085][ch1103][ch1090][ch1100]!

[ch1071] [ch1074][ch1093][ch1086][ch1076][ch1080][ch1083] twilight [ch1079][ch1086][ch1085][ch1091]?[/size][size=20][ch1071] [ch1076][ch1072][ch1102] [ch1074][ch1074][ch1077][ch1088][ch1093]! [ch1044][ch1086][ch1073][ch1088][ch1086][ch1081] [ch1085][ch1086][ch1095][ch1080][/size]Nyet, comrade. I think maybe SOMEONE PUT some radioactive poison in my keyboard?

dim5100, P4, 521 (2.8GHZ), HT, INT SNDNICV, 512MB DDR2 SDRAM. ZoneAlarm firewall/anti-virus, Ewido anti-malware.

ikitty purchased Registry Booster2 on the recommendation of a friend. the program is run 3-4 times a week.

can someone PLEASE explain why the registry needs so much repair? z/a and ewido report negative on scanning.

thank you.it could be updating?Why run it 3-4 times a week? That's hardly necessary.Quote from: laptop_guy on August 10, 2007, 07:50:49 PM

it could be updating?

Why run it 3-4 times a week? That's hardly necessary.

Do you frequently install and uninstall software, drivers, etc.? How many problems does it usually find?

ikitty still has not answered soybean's question about frequency. soybean will tell ikitty that running registry booster weekly is probably adequate unless ikitty has uninstalled software since the last running of registry booster.

Hi all,
I have a Sony deck top computer model VAIO PCA RX514 which I am up-grading the power supply to about 500w, the problem I have is I cannot find one to fit in the mounting bracket, the part # on the fitted power supply is 1-468-710-21,
any HELP will be welcome.
Thanks
John

PS Can anyone tell what the wattage of the power supply is for a SONY PCVRX360/70/80DS (RX301 VAIO) as I may be able to get a second hand one to fit.
i was doing reserch for your computer and 2 things

1. i have seen sony computers before that force you to buy one from them (there smaller)

2. i cant find your model NUMMBER are you sure thats the model you have?Hi Tinygnome,
Have a look at the link below :-

http://uk.shopping.com/xPF-Sony-Vaio-PCV-RX514

Thanks
nedTravel Here

Recently my old computer had a issue, (The motherboard got fried) but that isn't the point. My brother said he will fix it up by lending me a spare motherboard he has, but first because my C drive was full of trash, and some viruses I told him he can re-format the drive. My computer is old, so now to the problem, I know he has many other hard drives in his little work station, and my original hard drive is a 12 gigabytes (Which isn't much in todays standards) but when i came to check it out recently he claims that for some reason the computer detects it as a 1 gigabyte hard drive. Now i'm not sure if that is even possible. I think he switched my hard drive with one of his other ones. I would question him, but everytime i did in the past he always brings up the "who KNOWS more about computer speech" So before i do question him i want to comfirm that if this can really happen. So to refresh what my question is: is it possible that a computer can detect my 12 gigabyte hard drive as a 1 gigabyte? (No other FACTORS happen to the hard drive it was just reformatted)Did he create any partitions on the drive? Is the drive size as displayed in WINDOWS or the bios?Currently on windows98 on C drives it says 1 gig compacity.What does bios show?dunno, my computer is still at his work station under some mataince. I am currently USING one he is lending me. When you get the computer back, check in bios. If he has created partitions, the first one could be 1 gig. But windows will show a different HD for each partition.Ok, but is it really possible for the computer to read the hard drive compacity differently?

Since I put a new hard drive in my computer my optical mouse does not load when rebooting most of the time, works for a short while once in a while and then bogs down to dysfunctional, but it works fine if I reboot in safe mode.

I have changed USB ports but that didn't help.

Do you think I NEED a new mouse? Why would a broken mouse work fine in safe mode. It's an old IBM machine with XP Pro on it.

Sandy :-?Try another mouse on that computer and try your mouse on another machine. You'll KNOW soon enough where the problem is.

Be sure and shut down before removing/installing things for best results.Well, now the mouse won't even work in safe mode. I took a PS2 mouse and PLUGGED that in the PS2 slot while I had the other mouse in the USB port. Neither mouse would work, although the PS2 mouse LIGHTS up, whereas the other one does not. This same non working mouse works on a different computer.

I guess it's not the new hard drive. Aside from the mouse it seems to work fine. Although, when I ran Maxtor PM diagnostic it froze every time when it came to choosing a drive.

The USB port seems to be working because when I plug in an external hard drive it is RECOGNIZED. I just can't slide anything onto it with no mouse.

When the mouse was working somewhat I looked in Control Panel and it said the mouse was working fine.

Sounds like a driver issue to me. Try removing the driver and installing a new one downloaded from the net. When you go into safe mode, windows uses the absolute basic mouse drivers packaged with windows. That's probably why it was working in safe mode for a bit.

I am RUNNING Win 2000 and have 2 ea HDDs one is a Maxtor 91024U2 and it says says "parameter is incorrect" when I try to access it. I can access its properties box and it says it is working properly.

I went into CMOS and had it auto-detect the DRIVE and restarted and still have the same issue. Can you help.

JWDownload/run the manufacturers diagnostic program for your drive. If you cannot find the Maxtor prog then use the Seagate Seatools one.

A comment extracted from another forum is "Judging by my experience and all of the forum discussions I FOUND, It seems like the problem is a weakness in Maxtor's compatibility with NTFS. LETTING Win 2000 run disk checking seemed to repair it in my case." You might want to run Chkdsk /f

Googling for your error in respect of Maxtor drives shows that the most likely problem is that the read/write head(s) contacted the surface of the platter causing damage - hope not.

Slaving the drive in another pc is reported to allow recovery of files. If the problem is caused by physical damage I don't see how this is feasible.

Good LUCK

Computer: eMachines M6805 (Stock) - out of warranty.
Problem: Possible fried video card (ATI Mobility Radeon 9600 64mb onboard) as the display is GARBLED.
Click here for pictures of the display.

About 3 days before the LCD went completely garbled, the LCD was flickering on and off. What leads me to believe it's the video card as it looks horrible even in POST. Also, when I hooked up my external 19" LCD to the laptop, the output was still garbled, and when I take a screenshot on the laptop, save it, and then view it on a working computer, the screenshot is as garbled as the laptops LCD.

I've done some Google searching, found a couple posts about people with similar problems. Only suggestion I've read was someone (or someone's) saying "It's your motherboard, send it in for replacement." Which is all fine and well, except I called eMachines corporate and they want $244 (including shipping both ways) to replace the motherboard. I'm more interested in replacing the video card (if possible) and doing it myself. I've got loads of experience with desktops, but laptops are simply confusing (maybe i've missed a pictorial of a M6805 BREAKDOWN somewhere).

I'm also unable to locate someone selling the ATI Mobility 9600 to swap out my old one.

This whole post assumes that the ATI Mobility 9600 can be SWAPPED out with relative ease....lemme know.

Click here for pictures of the display.Laptops generally do not have replaceable video cards like desktops. I am sure this is the case with eMachines, so you cannot add another. Your ONLY option is to replace the motherboard which contains the graphics chip.

Changing a laptop motherboard is not for the squeamish either. Again, laptops are not like desktops. You can ruin components by just "giving it a go" yourself. Does anyone have a link to an actual tear down of the machine? I'm aware laptops are not like desktops. I'm aware that older style laptops have everything built into the motherboard, however, I seem to recall something about this laptop having "upgradable graphics."

Please reply w/o assumptions and only facts. Thanks.BumpQuote

Please reply w/o assumptions and only facts.

I have just purchased HP Compaq nx 7010 laptop with windows xp. I installed software for my digital camera Nikon coolpix. When I connected this camera to USB port the screen turned black and I have to restart the computer. After that all USB ports stopped functioning. So external keyboard, mouse etc. connected stopped working. I tried to update driver for usb, but couldn,t. when I reattach mouse it says there is unrecognized device. In device manager, under usb port controllers, there is unknown device. I tried to restore system, but without any result. So please help.Why can you not uppdate your drivers? Any error messages?

[glb]Flame[/glb]i have driver recovery cd along with this laptop. should i try that. noerror messeges except when i connect optical mouse to usb it says device not recognised.First, I SUGGEST contacting your computer manufacturer to see if the CD even has the drivers on it... You don't want to waste your time, just to see that the drivers were not on the CD... Tell your computer manufacturer that you have the CD, and ask if the drivers for the USB ports are on it, and if so, how to install them...

[glb]Flame[/glb]i contacted the manufacturer. they suggested some downloads. also i read that electrostatic current can disable usb ports. i experience this as i got mild shock when itouched the camera.Maybe..... MIGHT want to have the computer looked at the next time you go to a computer store...

[glb]Flame[/glb]i updated bios, windows update, uninstalled usb controllers and reinstalled, but without any benefit. i think i should reinstall the windows.i reinstalled the windows, updated all drivers, but nothing helped. finally i TOOK it to the service centre. lets see what they do.they changed the mother board as it was under warranty and every thing was ok.I wouldn't trust that camera...is it still under warranty BTW ? ?
If so return it.Wow...not too many people post back with an update two years later.I just wanted to reply to this old post so that people should know that dont wear any footware while working on computer, so that the electostatic current developed will not affetc ur computer. from my experience i learned that i used to get shock only when i sed RUBBER slippers and not after WEARING them. all the best.

Today while printing a 4 MG newsletter document in Microsoft Publisher 2003, on my HP Pavillion 503n with less than 1G memory, I kept getting an error message: PDL request 016-720. Then the printer (Dell color laser 3110cn) would tell me to press cancel and I had to restart the printer repeatedly to get one or two copies to print at a time. This was a 4 pg document with about 30% color, printing two-sided and it had mail merge addresses. To print 150 copies took over 3 hours, with constantly stopping, shutting off and restarting both the printer and the computer. It printed better when I deleted the mailmerge and printed two pages at a time, rather than the 4 pages. Last MONTH I printed an 11 MG document in 20 minutes with no error MESSAGES. Does this sound like hardware problem, a memory problem, or something with the mailmerge? My Microsoft updates are all current and I've done all the basic housecleaning I can find using System Tools. Thanks for any suggestions.I would delete the printer from the computer. Download the latest drivers from the printer manufacturer. Then install the drivers, and try a test page. Then try the project again. Seen drivers get corrupt before ... Also, how is the printer set up, LPT, USB, or Ethernet?It's set up by USB. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll try them this weekend.

What type of driver i need for usb joystick converter to GET it workingFor us to even have a chance of helping you out we need more information.
Like what version of Windows are you running?

And could you give us some more details on your problem.
The MAKE and model of the DEVICE WOULD ALSO be very helpful.

I have an ATA (IDE) 40-pin interface CONNECTOR and a new SATA hard drive. How should I connect the SATA hard drive to my computer?

If you need more HARDWARE information, I can PM you an EVEREST Home Edition report.If your motherboard does not have a SATA connector, you'll need to install a sata controller card.there are SATA to IDE conectors you can pick up at bestbuy or most store'sThank you for the link.
After looking at all the different choices, I decided it would be easier (and cheaper) to return the SATA hard drive and get a hard drive with the CORRECT interface connector. You made a good choice. Less confusion and less hardware.

Today i was tyring to fix my pc, so i borrowed a friend's RAM, I put it in my pc and when i finished with the ram, I put the stick back on his PC. His PC turned on, and then it wouldnt do anything else, but STAY on. I thought something had GONE wrong with his videocard, so i swap his videocard and nothing, i try to swap his ram with mine..nothing. I cant get anything out of my friend's PC, not even beeps.

Did i SOMEHOW fry his motherboard even thought the PSU turns on? Perhaps during your time borrowing his ram did you knock loose something? Maybe a cable, or plug?If you took out, or put in the ram into your friends computer while the computer was on, it is quite possible. To Vicar, Nope i didnt knock out anything, i made sure all parts were plugged in, and when nothing was booting up it was just a blackscreen and no beeps or anything, i tried running the PC by unplugging the Rom drives, and no response from the PC.

To honvetops, I have made sure everything is off, and im pretty sure i can tell a pc which is turned off from one thats turned on, espiecally with all the FANS on his rig.
Disconnect anything not required to boot your computer.

Check that everything is properly SEATED and connected.

Just leave the psu/mobo/cpu/1 stick of ram/graphics card. Try and start your computer.

Do you hear any beeps?

Do all the fans start?

Do you get any display on the monitor.


If not then the mobo is probably dead.

I dont hear any beeps
All the fans start
I dont get any display on the monitor..

So i guess my m/b is fried...

Hi everyone,

I found something interesting about my USB Flash DRIVE and USB HDD:
I have a USB Flash Drive (128MB) and a USB HDD (80GB), and to unplug them from my
PC, I choose "Safe Remove" by right click the hardware icon on the Taskbar.
I found that the power light indicator of the USB Flash Drive was immediately off after it was
said to be safe to remove; but that of the USB HDD was STILL on even if I waited for a few minutes afterwards.

Any ideas?
Go by the indicator within Windows to assure proper shutdown. It may be receiving power, but not actively able to access files. That's the way my Western Digital does.Quote

Go by the indicator within Windows to assure proper shutdown. ...

I need to upgrade the VIDEO card and it needs to be low profile cuz the computer is REALLY small. What I need to do is connect 2 monitors and have it be able to do different things on each monitor . But the one in it only does one monitor. Also the power SUPPLY in my computer is only 160 watts. What graphics card should work for my COMP?hi do u know if it has apg or pcixpress but try lookin here

www.novatech.co.ukIs your one and only PCI slot empty? If so, you COULD install a PCI video card to run the second monitor. If not, you'll need to replace your AGP card with one that will support two monitors. And, I believe your case requires low-profile cards, so keep that in mind when shopping.

Alright i recently purchased an advent ADE-AD2 wireless keyboard and am having some problems with it. When running games and using the W,A,S,D layout for movement and using the left SHIFT key to sprint i cant hold shft and press the W key i have to stop using any of the letter keys to use any number keys or SHIFT or CAPS LOCK and other keys of that nature. I am running Windows xp servie pack 2, Intel core 2 QUAD cpu 2.40 GHz 2048Mb RAM, NVIDIA GeForce 8800GTS. I installed all the relavent drivers for the keyboard and still this problem keeps happning. Also when playing an FPS and using any numbber of keys in rapid succesion the keyboard seems to "lag" out is thats possible. I really like this keyboard but will return it if i cant fix the problem as it makes gaming quite awkward. The reason who i am so hesitant to return it is that im looking for a really nice slimline low key wireless keyboard and am having difficulty find any ones for either a reaonable price or without having to shell out for the MOUSE aswell.

I donot KNOW if the problem is very vague or if anyone can help me but any assistance would be nice.

I'm USING a Dazzble 90 captured...currently i drop frames when i capture and i think its because my usb ports are old i think they are 1.0 im not sure how can i check my usb version?Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...scroll down to the USB listings.
If you have USB2 they will be listed as enhanced.

If not you can buy a USB PCI card with 2.o ports...relatively cheap and easy to install...i have currently 5 Usbs ports one in the front of the pc and 4 in the back....ive never connected the captured card to the one the front because it broke....i think i only have one usb that is 2.0 im not sure but here is what the device manager says ...... The first one says INTEL(R) 82801B/DBM USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller - 24CD the other 3 says intel(R) 82801B/DBM USB UniversalHost Controller ..... what does this mean? .....You have USB 2.0 on that MACHINE...

Try re-installing the Dazzle drivers.It's possible your motherboard has both 1.1 and 2.0 USB ports, although not MANY boards were made this way, as far as I know. I have an ECS K7S5A Pro motherboard that originally had USB 2.0 on back but the front ports were 1.1. I later added a PCI USB controller card that allowed me to convert to two front ports to USB 2.0 and added two addtional ports on back.

The fact that Device Manager shows only one instance of "USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller" does not mean that you only have one USB 2.0 port. If all your ports were 2.0, Device Manager would still only show "USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller" one time.

how to over clock a CPu for the first time, im just a average user and im using a Pentium 3 at 933mhz...how to over clock then?? thanks .... u need a new cpu fan to keep it cool or u will blow it but u have o get a good fan (£30+) but it may be hard to get becouse the cpu is old
if i were u i would eave it as it isYou can also lap your cpu to lower your temps by up to 15C

Just start increasing your fsb in your bios by 10 until it wont boot into windows, then up your vcore volatge by as small amount as you can and it whould boot into windows.I'm not an overclocker but I don't believe anyone can give a specific answer without the knowing the EXACT make of MODEL of your computer and/or motherboard. Your BIOS may not allow you to do what lil_falco suggested; it depends on your system.Ok i use a basic p4 fan and it was dead cheap..... you can over clock clock your cpu and gpu with some over clocking software.... although its not a wise idea , and you don't need to fork out for a new fan just as long as your one is good enough.....

A few reason why you shouldn't:

no1. you could totally burn it out

no2. It wont RUN the same as it did , before you overclocked.

Tony I sorta did, each CPU is different even if they are the same make/model.

But my advice is to buy a new cpu. GO EBAY!!!


You all need to start taking some risks. My 3800+ 2.0 ghz stock is now LAPPED and running at 2.4Ghz daily and ist been going for over a year on the stock fan.

Lapping is one of the ebst things you can do to your CPU to lower temps.

I was recently asked to build a computer by my husband:-)

What is your suggestions?what about stores? I was thinking tigerdirect.com and newegg.com any others i should be made aware of?

The computer will be for internet browsing, video storage/editing, and GAMING

Any ideas of the best things I should get for him? I want to make it pretty nice and easily upgradable, because of his gaming addiction:-)
Quote from: Deemanota on October 03, 2007, 04:50:46 PM

...what about stores?...

Sorry

In the US

I'm not SO concerned about budget, because even if I can get some ideas, I have other resources for computer components-I'm just not a great "from scratch" kind of person. If a person tells me exactly what they want, I can build it, but figuring it out-I kinda feel lost, because I know I will come up with something, then seem to find something better and say ::::DOH::::

Ok computers are a rapidly changing field and this can lead to some nice discussions. Essentially, spec out the best money can buy! (gosh this is making me drool as it is). To avoid too much conflict both AMD and Intel chips/mobos can be accepted as the #1 chip (i.e., list both if you'd like to be a diplomat hehe). Same goes for ATI vs nVidia. This is meant to be a friendly drooling party rather than a corporate pissing contest

PROC
AMD FX53-2.4Ghz (1600MHz)
INTEL P4EE-3.4Ghz (800MHz)

MOBO
ASUS SK8V
Chosen over nVidia's nForce3Pro because the NF3 only supports 650MHz (1300DDR) bus and has a different emphais (its a business oriented mobo)
http://usa.asus.com/products/mb/socket940/sk8v/overview.htm

ABIT KV8 Pro
Another serious contender on the AMD side of things, Abit brings reliability and more recently, more OC headroom compared to ASUS.
http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/products.php?categories=1&model=176

ASUS P4C800E-Deluxe
The premier board for testing out Dual Channel memory, you cant go wrong with this baby. Not to mention the fact its the highest performing Canterwood board available.
http://usa.asus.com/products/mb/socket478/p4c800-e_d/overview.htm

ABIT IC7-MAX3
The IC7 series stirred a lot of comotion amoungst ASUS circles when it came out as it offers a CRAPLOAD of functionality and reliability not to mention some seriously kewl features. If it wasnt for my undying love of ASUS, I would have switched to this already (assuming I went Intel of course )
http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/products.php?categories=1&model=130

RAM
Corsair RegisteredXMS TwinX2048-3200 (3-3-3-8)
Registered memory for the FX peeps, nothing special except it does have some nice timings for PC3200. The stock heatspreader isnt that fancy but thats the price one pays for regsitered ram
http://www.corsairmicro.com/corsair/products/specs/twinx2048RE-3200.pdf

Corsair XMS Pro TwinX1024-4000 (3-4-4-8)
These babies are for Intel folks only and very very nice both in performance, looks and stock cooling
http://www.corsairmicro.com/corsair/products/specs/twinx1024-4000pro.pdf

OCZ PC3700 Platinum OCZ466-1024 (3-2-2-8)
What's there to say, these sticks are absolutely fabulous -- and they look fantastic.
http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/OCZ_DDR_PC-3700_Platinum_Enhanced_Bandwidth_Dual_Channel

OCZ PC3500 Gold OCZ433-1024 2-3-2-6
One word describes the timings: stunning -- especially so for registered memory (meaning its for FX peeps)
http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/OCZ_PC-3500_ECC_Registered_Dual_Channel_DDR

VIDEO CARD
eVGA GeForce6800 Ultra Extreme Edition
Three words: close your mouth....
http://www.evga.com/articles/public.asp?AID=188

ASUS AX800 XT/TVD
Three more words: .... and stop drooling
http://usa.asus.com/products/vga/ax800xt/overview.htm

SOUND
Soundblaster Audigy 2 ZS Platinum Pro
Sometimes these naming conventions just get out of hand.... lol and excellent set all around still
http://www.creative.com/products/product.asp?prodid=4925

PSU
Coolermaster RS450 (450W)
Premodded, effective cooling, open design to limit dust getting clogged and reliable rails, this PSU is an excellent deal all around.
http://www.coolermaster.com/index.php?LT=english&Language_s=2&url_place=product&p_serial=RS-450-ACLY&other_title=+RS-450-ACLY+Real%20Power&PHPSESSID=44b08d797d2500981a71d14c35f4b74e

Thermaltake Polo12 (410W)
Similar design as the Coolermaster (premodded and makes use of a 120mm fan), this baby comes with a front and/or rear mounted fan controller as well as some very nice case fans, an excellent PSU in any respect.
http://www.xoxide.com/polo12.html

HSF
Thermaltake Silentboost K8
This is the K8 version of Thermaltakes very effective Silentboost HSFs.
http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/venus/rs/a1838.htm

Thermaltake Venus12
This is the badass supercharged fan for the K8 procs.
http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/venus/rs/a1744.htm

Thermaltake DIY Tower112
The ultimate in quiet (or loud depending on the fan config), this is a highly adaptable HFS for both Intel and AMD applications
http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/comboCool/cl-p0024tower112/cl-p0024tower112.htm

CoolerMaster Jet4
For P4 chips, this blower gets around the deadzone introduced by traditional fans and has air flowing over the entire surface of the heatsink.
http://www.xoxide.com/comajet4p447.html

Thermaltake Polo735
Although this is a 3-in-1 cooler, it is most commonly found on Intel chips since AMD chips typically use the Venus/Volcano line of coolers. This is one loud mofo
http://www.thermaltake.com/coolers/comboCool/a2144Polo735/polo735.htm


Thoughts? Ideas? Challenges?

I am liking it !

This will seem like a really DUMB question to all the experts..............but I have just bought a Toshiba Qosmio laptop and want to tranfer all 'my docs' across from my PC. Can I connect directly in any way (via USB?) and just copy across, or do I have to put everything onto a flash drive and do that for hours? :-?If it has a CD burner you can copy that way. You could also establish a simple network and transfer without wires or any other devices. What other machine do you have to use? You could use a friend that has a router and a machine and temporarily use his network for this task.

It could all be done in a few minutes. I do have a friend with a router and laptop, but I don't think she's able to set it all up, any more than I can. But I will have a go. I will be getting a router soon as well. I have a CD burner, but I also have a 512mb flash drive, so I suppose using that is the other way to go. I was hoping I might be able to just run an UMBILICAL from one to the other with no middle man. Not my area of expertise. Thanks very much for your advice.They do make USB cables to create a Peer-to-Peer network via USB. I have done this before, it is a hoakey setup like creating a Peer-to-Peer through your Serial or LPT Parallel PORT. But if networking is new territory to you, I would suggest copying data to a USB pen drive to be copied to the other system or Burn the data to a CD or DVD ..... BTW: Be sure the previous system is clean of any virus's etc, before doing this to avoid spreading problems... Good Luck

Also...Filevan has a USB solution with support for around $20 at http://www.filevan.com/usb.html

DaveI went into Filevan and had a look, and that is what I was looking for. But I am in AUSTRALIA and may not be able to source one quickly, so memory stick is probably it. It may make me clean out my huge graphics files somewhat. This is a great resource, thanks so much.

I have a Sony laptop model PCG-FRV26 that uses PC2100 sodimm. Can I replace PC2100 with PC2700? It is CHEAPER to PURCHASE and I have heard it is BACKWARD compatible. Anyone have EXPERIENCE with this?

ThanksCrucial.com says PC2700 will work. Trust them; they're SMART. See http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=VAIO%20PCG-FRV26Thanks soybean

Hiya there!

Made a post here a few days ago about my computer not working. I got plenty of help, but I just couldn't seem to identify/fix the problem. So, I'm going to BUY some new stuff!

It's mainly going to be used for gaming. I don't require the very best, but I do require something stable that won't break down and fry everything when I turn the comp on for the first time. I don't know much about overclocking, so I don't think I'll be doing that. I'd like to have the option to, though. Also, I need the graphics card to support SM 3.0.
Budget is around $1,000.


Here's what I'm thinking:

CPU: Intel E6300 or E6400 (depending on what you think)
Mobo: mounted on an Asus P5B, P965 motherboard
RAM: with 2x Corsair Value S. PC5300 DDR2, 1024MB
GPU: GeForce 7600 GT (Probably an XFX, GDDR3 XXX)
PSU: Hiper ATX 530W, 4xSATA, 2XPCI-E, 20/24pin


Now, a few questions:
Is the RAM compatible with the mobo? And is it possible to use normal DDR instead of DDR II (guessing not)?
Is the PSU enough to power the whole thingy, or should I up it to a 580W? Can I use old 300W PSUs to help, and if so, how do I connect them (make them start up, etc)?
Can I run normal SATA disks, or need I SATA II? At the MOMENT I have 2x 160 GB IDE HDD SATA, 7200 rpm ones. Would be a shame if I couldn't use them.
If I need a SATA II disk, what about aSeagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB SATA2 16MB 7200 rpm?


Thanks for reading, hope I get plenty o' comments!
// Dan



Edit: Noticed better RAM for a cheaper cost, updated the component list.Quote

Is the RAM compatible with the mobo? And is it possible to use normal DDR instead of DDR II (guessing not)?

Is the PSU enough to power the whole thingy, or should I up it to a 580W? Can I use old 300W PSUs to help, and if so, how do I connect them (make them start up, etc)?

Can I run normal SATA disks, or need I SATA II? At the moment I have 2x 160 GB IDE HDD SATA, 7200 rpm ones. Would be a shame if I couldn't use them.

Go to www.crucial.com and see EXACTLY what you need. Now is not the time to be guessing.

A cheap 800 w power supply is worse than a quality 400 w. If you don't spend at least $50 for a name brand power supply, you're wasting your money and risk damaging your expensive components. Think Antec and www.newegg.com

SATA drives are backward compatable, so no need to invest in something you already have.

I am looking for a cheap better GRAPHICS card for my comp so I can run my games a little better, adn found this card http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1776106&Tab=0&NoMapp=0

I know almost nothing about the internal workings of my computer and have no clue if mine meets the minimun specs for this card.
I attached my DirectX report (dxdiag) with all my specs.

Sorry if this is a waste of time r a dumb question, but all help is much appreciated.I don't see your specs or ATTACHMENT...A DX diag report is of little use. Better yet to run an Everest report and copy and paste it in here for review. Without KNOWING what you have, or even if you have an AGP slot, the discussion is pointless.

That card seems to have a lot of happy buyers, based on the reviews. Not state of the art, but reasonably priced. The question is will it work in your system?

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlany specific PART of the report you want me to c&p?
It's a pretty big report...OK, on that ASUS board you have onboard video (S3 unichrome) but there is an AGP slot, so that AGP card would fit in just fine. When installed it will automatically disable the onboard video so just install the drivers for the card and you are good to go.

You will also get that amount of RAM the onboard video was using back for use by the system so the machine should run a little faster with it's full 512 RAM. That's an extra bonus.

HP's have notoriously small power supplies but the fact that this is not a "killer card" is also a bonus.

I think you're good to go with that purchase you planned. Let us know how you like it.

I am trying to move all my old files with an external usb drive CASE and my old HDD which RAN xp. when it is plugged into my gateway (new) it never will load all of the way up when i am in my computer. I installed usb drivers in an old comp running windows NT and the same external drive is accesable on the NT machine but I can't find a way to get the files over to the new. I have a 20 gb drive that I can format in either computer and use but if it is formatted on the nt system and then used on the vista system no matter how many file are on it it wont load up.
Thanks for listening!You can't move a HDD with XP installed from one machine to another and expect it to boot up properly...this is by design.
You're best bet to retrieve that data would be to HOOK up the drive as an internal drive jumpered as slave and copy/move the info you need...Maybe I'm not reading your post right but I think some clarification is needed. Are you trying to boot your new Gateway computer, running Vista, from the external USB drive? If so, why?

Quote

I have a 20 gb drive that I can format in either computer and use but if it is formatted on the nt system and then used on the vista system no matter how many file are on it it wont load up.

Hi,

I bought a new SAMSUNG 940BW widescreen MONITOR about 1 week ago. I love my stuff to be clean. I accidently put my fingers on the display so it left some fingerprints. I decided to clean my monitor the next day. I didn't read any tips before cleaning it with TAP water. It left those mineral spots that annoy me! I did everything to remove them but with no hope. I used ISOPROPYL Alcohol, distilled water, vinegar and those mineral spots seem to increase..

The look kinda lighter than what this image looks like...
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5362/untitled1qg5.gif

Is Monster iClean able to remove those mineral spots? It's sold for about 35$ here in Egypt so I dunno if it's worth it or not...

'm REALLY upset and DEPRESSED since it's my first LCD...Please help guys!

Thanks...That image does not convey what you're trying to show. It just isn't visible in the image.

Here's an article that might be helpful: About Cleaning LCD Screens - Cleaning your LCD Monitor and Laptop Screen

I thought this was my monitor failing and PURCHASED a new flatscreen monitor today, to discover the "stripes" continuing with my new monitor. Computor is several years old Dell, but does everything I want it to do. Was trying to hold off buying a new system, so just purchased cheap monitor. COULD it be my VIDEO card?Most likely...not necessary to replace the machine if it SUITS your purposes.

Do you know anyone you could borrow a vid card from to test if it for SURE is the culprit ? ?

Afterwards post back with your budget requirements and our Resident Video experts will be along to offer recommendations...Thanks. I'll try removing, cleaning and reseating my video card to see if that's the problem. Kinda wish I'd thought of that befor buying the monitor.Well, since you have the second monitor now, you might want to try running dual monitors. Of course, you need to monitor connectors on your computer in order to do that. If that's not the case now and you find you need to replace your video card, you could get one that supports two monitors.

Hi all,

I have several SATA (3gbs) hard drives. Also a tray-less SATA Rack. This is a removable SATA drive rack.

The drives are formatted properly. When I try using these drives on a friends PC they work perfectly. We can plug them in .. view/modify contents. We can pull the drive and plug in a new one and all works well.

However, for some reason these drives will not work on my own two PCs at home. It's a very strange combination of problems.


I am using Windows XP Pro with all updates and SP2. The drives power source is a proper SATA Power Connector directly from the power supply (no adaptors) My friend has the same main board and such.

So something is missing /broken in my system. (I guess) I've tried a full re-install of windows.

Any ideas why my SATA drives will hot swap properly on several friends PCs but not mine?

Addition strange happening: IF I first plug any of my drives into a "working" computer (my friends PC) THEN I have the following scenerio:

I CAN plug it into my own computer while running (hot swap) and it works normally. BUT if it is left in the computer and the computer is shut down and restarted, it will not work and locks up the system. So it will only work normally as a true hot swap and only after the computer has been started first.

I can bring the 1/2 dozen drives to my friends house and have him just plug each one into his system and from then on they will work. But why ?? And also why do they CRASH my system if they are already plugged in after a system start ?? Very weird problem. Do you have a spare PSU with SATA connectors lying around ? ?
Hook it up to the SATA Rack and see if this helps...Quote

Do you have a spare PSU with SATA connectors lying around ? ?
Hook it up to the SATA Rack and see if this helps...

The only thing i can think of between your machine and your friends would be the SATA drivers themselves or possibly a setting/switch in the BIOS...

Where did you get a 3 gig. SATA drive?

What are the operating systems on the systems that work and don't? Any other hints on the machines? See below.

I'm perplexed...i checked MSKB and nothing...does this dock use drivers also ? ?

Tony I am done, not going to respond to anther comment you make towards me....

I dont understand why you can get over URSELF and just be mates....... but what ever... guys please. don't need any arguing. I appreciate everyones help. I have DIMM memory 168 pin. I got on HP site prior to installing it and got instructions. On one of the modules, I couldn't pull the release lever down far enough to get it out. I had to pull graphics card out slightly to get lever all the way down. I pushed in new modules. One side would tend to go in first and then the other would be hard to get in. I pulled it out and push other side in first to make sure it wasn't a problem with the module fitting. It wasn't as the side that was hard to push in initially was not hard when I pushed it in first. The other side then would be hard. I did get it in and the levers popped back up and into the module cutout where it is supposed to sit. The computer then worked fine. It says I have 2G of RAM now, speed is improved.

I did find a test on my computer. HP has software that came on computer called PC Doctor. When I ran MEMORY test it didn't run. came up saying unable to allocate memory. so it is looking like memory issue, but I would think it wouldn't work at all or work poorly. It works fine, then just shuts down, and strangely, it doesn't occur when I am using it. It only occurs when computer is sitting. I am trying to determine if it is only when in standby mode cause I think it is (but not sure) I shut off standby and left computer on all night and it was fine this morning. I will wait for a while and SEE if occurs. If it doesn't occur, then I will turn standby on again and see if it occurs again. If it does, what would this mean? Why would going into standby cause this problem if it is RAM associated? sorry man, did not mean to clutter up your thread.... Ok here is what I have done. I shut off power saving features but left screen saver on. I let computer sit all night and it was fine. Unlike before when it would start beeping within hours the last few times. however, until just recently, it only occurred very sporadically so can't really consider this as the problem--yet. Since several of you said it had to be RAM, I checked it out. It seemed fine. was in slots FLUSH and the tabs to remove it (that pop up into slot in the modules) were in CORRECT position. I decided to pull them out and switch them anyway. I got them in with definite clicks. I ran the memtest that someone sent link to. I let it run for about 6 hours and it made two PASSES with 0 errors. If the RAM were not seated correctly I would think it would get errors just like if the RAM were bad? I then cleaned everything real good. One of me fans (the one right on motherboard) was really clogged up with dirt. I got it all cleaned out and put everything back together and we'll see what happens. Oh yeh, I ran the PC doctor (software that came with my computer) and it still says could not allocate memory when I tried to run the memory test. I checked it out and it says that the software is to be used with the original OEM hardware configuration only--so I guess can't really consider this test valid. I have new DVD-RW, 2 new hard drives, and 2 new RAM modules!Perphaps your psu is not correct for the new ram dvd drive etc... But hold up some one will be along to help further.. Go to reply #4 where Richenstony recommended
Memtest.

Memtest is a good reliable program.I already did the memtest. See my last reply. I let it run for 2 passes (about 6 hours) and it had 0 errors.Okay...from what I can tell your BIOS is giving you a warning...one long beep...stops...and then continues...no video....right?

Based on the information you've given us...the problem would tend to point to one or both of two things:

What I think the problem is:

1) Memory refresh rate...
Now, this is based on the fact that the BIOS is AMI. Probable cause: Memory is not compatible with the motherboard or the memory is actually bad.

What may be the cause, as well:

1) Failing or failed video card. Now this is just a shot in the dark, however...are you absolutely sure your memory is compatible and working? If not...this may be the other alternative you'll want to look into.

You can use Crucial Technologies to find memory compatible with your motherbaord...if you know the correct make and model...

If not...and you know the make/model of your computer...and haven't changed the motherboard, you may want to start here: Memory

Now...I'm not trying to sell you anything...so don't think I'm spamming...but you can use that link to find the correct memory for your system and then see if you can find it cheaper wherever you'd like. I just thought I'd be helpful.

Good luck...and by all means...Please keep us posted...Perhaps you could try your old ram in the machine ? I checked HP site to get info on correct RAM, then went to Kingston site and I think they had something to verify that you were getting correct RAM also. I also told guys at comp usa and they said I had correct RAM. I already ran the memory test and it said no errors after 6 hours so can I assume that the ram is installed correctly and it is good? I also thought about something with video cause I did have to remove video card to install the ram. I made sure it was installed correctly when I reinstalled the ram this time. I plan to let my computer sit and see if the problem recurrs. If so then I will try putting the OEM RAM back in and see if it happens then. I will let you all know. thanks for the help

Im converting a gateway M520 CS+ laptop motherboard to a desktop FTP/web server, the board was given to me from a friend, and it is running a 2.53ghz Celeron D Prescott, 512mbs of DDR333 memory, and a 37gb fujitsu HDD i had laying AROUND. I need a JAE 50 pin to IDE 40 pin converter so i can attach IDE ODD's to the laptops 50 pin JAE ODD connector, i can find ADAPTORS to convert IDE to JAE, but not JAE to IDE, the adaptors cannot be used in reverse due to the fact that there are no JAE cables avalible. If anyone can find one, please tell me, my friend and i have searched google like madmen, but found nothing, hope someone can help.

as a side note, this prodject is code NAMED dead cow, anyone who can help will be credited when its complete; which, sadly wont be untill i get some money to invest in a SATAII card for the laptop, so i can run an external E-sata drive for the FTP/web server. thats about 150-180 bucks there, plus i may need a power supply for the beefier CPU cooler i plan to throw onto this laptop
board. it is a very strange board, it has the standard socket 478 mounting system for coolers, uses a desktop chipset, has limited power saving ablitiies, and has a bios that isnt limited on many things at all. quite perfect for me. all in all it will cost me a tad over 200, but thats not bad for a FTP/web server. oh, and one final thing, a link to what this abnormality once was:

http://support.gateway.com/s/Mobile/Gateway/M520/3501916nv.shtmlThis any good

http://cgi.ebay.com/Notebook-Laptop-50-PIN-JAE-CDROM-DVD-ROM-to-IDE-adapter_W0QQitemZ150150345879QQihZ005QQcategoryZ80198QQcmdZViewItemOr this

http://www.1topstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=1335no, i found hundreds of them, they all have the male 50 pin JAE connector like my laptop motherboard, they will not work 'cause theres no JAE cable to adapt that to a female. personally i dont feel like paying 60+ dollars for a slim drive to fit it.

needs to have this port on it:

I need a new 50 - 80 GB hard drive. Can anyone RECOMMEND the best and LEAST expensive PLACE to find one?http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010150014+4025&name=%2425+-+%2450Thanks for the link, I'm looking into it. Would you trust buying one on Ebay?I've actually bought refurbished laptops on ebay before and they were ok......

Personally, I would not buy components on ebay without a warranty... Online retailers LIKE the above are the way to GO now days in my opinion.

whan i turn the computer on it all loads up then after a miute or two the messanger will pop up so i press the cross then try open the internet explorer page and it opens then just like crashes and makes a NOISE when i try press owt on the page i can open another internet explorer page and thats fine but the other page will just stay there and i try to right click at the bottom of the page to press close and it wont let me its just like stuck and wont go off any ideas what this could be as its doing my head in thanks The first thing I would try is some punctuation...

If that doesn't help...try sentence structure...

I hope that helped...please keep us posted...Ya really... I can't comprehend ANYTHING you are ASKING or need help with.

Fix up your questing and I'll be glad to help.Who keeps feeding the parrots in here ? ?

I belive what he means

"When i turn my computer on, it starts up normally after a mintue or so a message pops up, (please tell us what the message says please) So he hits the close button and then opens and exploere, then it crashs freezeing on the screen and he is unable to close this, he is unable to right click on the START bar etc"

Ok, firstly just a quick fix to help you in the mean time, if you hit Ctrl Alt + Delete then go to processes then find IE explorer (or what ever browser you use) then hit end task it will close....


Now to fix-

1. Run in safe mode (hit F8 on start up of computer) see if the same thing happens

2. Run Virus spyware scans in safe mode

3. Post a hi-jack this log

4. You could try a different browser (http://www.mozilla-europe.org/en/products/firefox/)

5. Wait some body else may help too !



Glad someone took the time to DECIPHER it...

I'll read a post once...maybe twice...if I get lost along the way...CYA!

Spero-T...gotta give ya credit, though.

hi,

i've just rebuilt my computer with xp service pack 2 and all works fine. except when i attach either my maxtor external hard drive or my ipod, when it seems to crash the computer unless i wait quite a while (10 mins or so). sometimes i have to reboot and endure the same problem again.

is this common? and OBVIOUSLY is there a solution?

MANY thanksThere is a small section on how your usb port should be set up maybe this will help

http://www.directron.com/installusb.html

Check you PSU can handle the power REQUIREMENTS for an extra DEVICE..

I have a laptop that although it works, there are spots on the SCREEN from a soda spill. It is between the protective layer and the lcd screen. Is there a way to get rid of the spots? All though they are transparent, when using a PROGRAM like word, were your screen is bright, the spots become apparent as they make bright spots on the screen.Those soda spots are basically dried sugar. Unless you have the technical skills to take it APART and reassemble it, you are very likely SOL.I've had it apart several times for other reasons (keyboard, power switch board, ribbon cable) At one time I thought to fix it but once I'd gotten the lcd out I couldn't see a way to remove the protective layer. It seems to be glued to the front of the lcd, yet the soda GOT through?
Well I find that preventing is better than healing that is why I never drink or eat for the computer.
I'm SORRY to say but I'm afraid you can't get it off without damaging the screen.

Jonas that's pretty much what I thought the answer was going to be!
Oh well, live and learn!!!

I ran the tests.
Now it just has all this computer information stuff.Did you pass all the tests including the sound tests?Yep.
All say no problems found.Here's where I'm stopping, after spending an hour in Google reading about PEOPLE having problems with Sims and ATI video cards I suggest swapping that ATI card for something more Sims compatible.
If I come across any NEW answers for you I'll POST them.I have played it in another computer with the same card before.
I'm really PEEVED off.Did you TRY the fix of adding the 'w' switch to the shortcut and see if it runs in windowed mode?

Hi, this is my first post, and I am hoping I can GET help here. I have two computers side by side with one hooked up to the foxtel outlet with my INTERNET account going through cable. How do I join the second computer to the first so I can access the internet on the first account? Regards NetstaWelcome to the CH forums.

Lots of info on the WWW - here is just one Google hit.

Good luckThat is fantastic help, thank you very much...You're WELCOME - LET us know how you get along.

First, can anyone TELL me if a HP printer Deskjet 658c will work with a MAC MINI?
Second, if it does, why does it refuse to PRINT after one or two printouts?
Third, if it does, why did it all of a sudden lock up on me, and not permit me to EVEN print one or two?
Thanks for your help.

A LOUDER than normal whirring SOUND COMING from computer. was intermittent yesterday..more constant today. Any DIAGNOSES?And if all of that doesn't work, while the SIDE of the case is off, just put your ear in there and see where the sound is actually coming from.

Hi everyone, my printer started printing with white lines through the images and with the wrong colours bring printed.

I renewed the cartridges, calibrated them and printed a test page, but the problem persists.

Can anyone SUGGEST anything, its a HP All in One inkjet. All DRIVERS are up to date.

Thanks!Have you tried checking the AMOUNT of ink remaining in the cartridges...or cleaning the print heads?

There should be an option to do this with your printer's control panel.Usually if I have those problems, I just CHANGE the Black ink and it works fine.