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How can I make my printer print a SIMPLE page in black and white when one of my color cartridges is empty. Specifically, the yellow cartridge is completely empty and there is no practical way to resell it.
YES, it is one of those NEW HP designs that has a complicated way of keeping the ink in a special platter so that you can't put more take into the cartridge. I tried buying some refilled cartridges, but one of them fails on me and I have to be the one that I needed the most.
So, until I can afford to buy replacement cartridge, I can't use this printer. I can't even print in black and white because the printer just will not accept that tests an alternative choice when one of the color cards is empty. There is plenty of eight in the black cartridge, but one of the color inks is completely empty and the printer refuses to do anything.
Their opt to be away to force a printer to go ahead and print in black and white. But I've tried all the options I can find in the printer just get stuck on this BUSINESS about the carts being empty. I don't understand this. It doesn't make sense to stop the printing process because one cartridge is empty. Printing in black and white should always be an available option. At least that's what I think.
So here's my question, is there some kind of a patch or act or trick that one could use to force the printed to go ahead and print even though one of the color cartridges is completely empty.
Forgot to mention, this is an HP printer. If I have an Epson, I wouldn't have this problem.
Thanks in advance.
See if there is a greyscale setting... Quote from: patio on December 29, 2016, 06:33:12 PM

See if there is a greyscale setting...

Your printer is DESIGNED to print only when all ink cartridges have ink. A little ink from all the ink cartridges is used in periodic servicing tasks. This helps to prevent issues such as printhead clogs and poor print quality. There is no way to bypass this feature.

I recently built a new pc. At first it worked great! Then after about 2 hours it started giving me a BSOD. After about a week of trying to fix it I finally just returned the Motherboard, SSD, and HDD in hopes that it would now work. Today I was disappointed since now when I try to install windows there is no BSOD or any kind of error that is visible. All that happens is it loads for about 30 seconds restarts and then loads again. Occasional after restarting my monitor says no signal and I have to boot it off all the way on the tower and on the PSU. I have looked through MANY forums to try to SOLVE and have talked to people on the live chat if someone could please help that would be appreciated.Please List what PARTS you have in this computer so we know what you have going on for parts. Right now we have nothing to go on and it could be any number of causes.

What make/model Motherboard?
What CPU?
What RAM?
What Drives?
What Power Supply?
What Video Card(s)?
What additional Cards?
Where did Windows 10 comes from... download or bought in store etc?

Additionally is the computer plugged into a clean power source or an outlet that might have dirty power with dips and spikes? ( Dirty power would be if you have a lamp on the same outlet and you notice a dimming, brightness, or flickering in the light as the easiest detection for dirty power source. ) Quote from: DaveLembke on January 22, 2017, 08:21:57 AM

Please List what parts you have in this computer so we know what you have going on for parts. Right now we have nothing to go on and it could be any number of causes.

What make/model Motherboard?
What CPU?
What RAM?
What Drives?
What Power Supply?
What Video Card(s)?
What additional Cards?
Where did Windows 10 comes from... download or bought in store etc?

Additionally is the computer plugged into a clean power source or an outlet that might have dirty power with dips and spikes? ( Dirty power would be if you have a lamp on the same outlet and you notice a dimming, brightness, or flickering in the light as the easiest detection for dirty power source. )

It's ridiculous that ASUS doesn't list the QVL list for RAM for that MBoard in the Manual...

Contact ASUS for it.

DDR4 3400*(*O.C.)/ 3333*/ 3200*/ 3100*/ 3000*/ 2933*/ 2800*/ 2666*/ 2600*/ 2400*/ 2133

** Refer to www.asus.com for the Memory QVL (Qualified Vendors Lists).

Already hit that wall earlier Dave...

As to the RAM it's DDR4 which makes it all the more important to have the QVL list....

Perhaps the reason it's buried ? ?

Shame on ASUS.

Where did you find the QVL list for the RAM ? ?

Cool.

That would be pure speculation at this point...

I'm thinking of buying a 27in. or 32in. WIDE screen MONITOR. Now i am LOOKING to divide the screen into mulitple views,, so inevietably it would LOOK like a MULTI monitor view. Is this possible and if it is, where do i go from here ?? Thanks in advance,,, WADeThis might be helpful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cygwin/X, and this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X_Window_System.

I was TRYING out this cheap game off Steam (Brothers: A tale of two sons), where in the game you control two characters (the sons) and was pressing I believe R-CTRL, Arrow Left, and possibly either ALT or the menu key can't remember. All of the sudden my screen goes black, and I'm like "Alright then".

So I try to PRESS the keys again, nothing. Turn off the PC, turn it back on, and nothing, my keyboard / MOUSE don't even light up (When I press keys the back lights behind the indicators for the "SCROLL LOCK", "CAPS LOCK", "NUM LOCK" look like they're TRYING to turn on, but don't).

Try turning it off then on a few times, still nothing.

So I switch out my graphics card, BOOTS up like normal, run a BIOS diagnosis, comes back clean so I THINK sweet, it's fixed. Well I try the other card (One that wasn't working) and same thing happens.

Now I'm thinking MAYBE it's a driver issue (I know, doesn't make sense considering Windows doesn't even boot up, but I'm guessing anything), so I plug in the second card again, and now it doesn't work. I try my onboard, nothing.

I've tried another monitor as well and get the same issue, and no, I can't try the cards in another system, this is my only desktop.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance! Operating System is Windows 10160w psu...go figure  lolSounds like you my need a new connection wire.

I just got this laptop yesterday, and suddenly today the laptop shuts down and now won't display anything. Even if i connect to a monitor, there is no display. The battery is non removable without tearing the thing APART. the two indicator lights both indicate properly. When it's charging i get an orange LIGHT, and when it's powered on i get a blue light. I'm fairly sure i'm just going to have to get it replaced or return it, but maybe there's something i can do to avoid going through that whole process. Any suggestions would be appreciated.Did you try reseating the CPU that should help.I'd return it IMMEDIATELY...

I have a Dell Optiplex GX110 PIII 40gb HD Excelstor, one 128 SDR and one 256 SDR. A CD Rom which i cant tell the make, but its like the one USED on laptops.
My problem is the following: The first time i tried to INSTALL Windows XP Pro Sp2 it took me 24hrs and the installtion dint even end, because there was the following error Drive got stuck in a Infinite Loop
Vga64K Beginning dump of physical memory Physical memory dump complete By the way how do i solve this error?  i dont now if its possible to install this file while running the xp setup? I also searched the web for the error and discovered it had to do with display, so i decided to plung in a display adpter, but the PC could not recognize it. I tried installing Win 2000 but no succes it just hung. I installed Win98 sec edition it also took 24hrs but i didnt get any errors but the PC is so slow, I tried  to UPGRADE to win xp sp2 it tells me that its gonna take 108 to complete, well i waited until the next day only to find out that nothing happend it just got stuck. I dont think this is normal, i also tried changing the cd rooms to dvd room still no success, the Win XP cd is new and original i have used it to install other PC's and it worked just fine. Can someone tell me whats wrong or give me an idea, i have been on this PC for a week now with this problem. I feel so stressed. Please guys help. Can also e-mail me on [email protected] thanks for your attention and help.  :-?First reseat the RAM and make sure the hard drive and all cards and cables are plugged in correctly.

The when starting the machine press F2 when you see the Dell logo. Press down the NumLock, Caps Lock,etc. so all 3 keyboard lights are lit up. Then hold down the Ctl+Alt+E key until you hear a series of beeps and release. Restart the machine by pressing escape.

Now test the RAM with the free downloadable diagnostics at www.memtest86.com

Is that the RAM that has been in the machine for a while?

Now test the hard drive with the free diagnostics from the appropriate drive maker's site.

How is the drive jumpered? Has this drive been in the machine for some time or is this a new addition?

Has the macine EVER worked normally? WHat happened between then and now?

24 hours to load Windows is definitely NOT normal.

My PC has 5 PCI SLOTS, all full.  When I replace the old sound card with a new ONE the computer will no longer boot. It turns on but the screen never even comes on to show bios loading or anything.  If I remove any one of the PCI cards (except for video obviosly) the computer runs fine even with the new sound card.  I need all 5 cards (video, WIRELESS ethernet, USB, ATA133 IDE, and sound) so I don't know what to do.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.[highlight]When I replace the old sound card with a new one the computer will no longer boot.[/highlight]

But, will it boot with the old sound card
using  all 5 slots?YesYou appear to have an IRQ conflict.

Your new sound card may have an automatic IRQ assignment that is
conflicting with another piece of hardware.

Is your BIOS set for Plug and Play?

You may even need a BIOS upgrade but, that should be done as a last
 resort.Yes, the bios are set to plug and play.Set assign IRQ to VGA option to No in BIOS can you do this?I don't have that particular option.  I have PCI VGA palette Snoop set to disabled.

PCI Slot 1&4 Priority    Auto
PCI Slot 2 Priority        Auto
PCI Slot 3 Priority        Auto
PCI Slot 5 Priority        Auto
PCI device SEARCH order   First to Last
Default Primary Video    PCI
all IRQs set to  PCI/PnP

As well as many OTHERS, but these seem most relevant.Is the sound card in PCI slot 3?
If you uninstall the sound card in the control
panel and reboot with it in PCI slot 3.......
What happens?

When I put a CD into my computer it doesn't do anything. I've tried every CD I have and it doesn't change anything. I found what I would think has to be the problem. In My Computer I went to Properties and HARDWARE and it says theres a problem with the DVD/CD-ROM DRIVE. It is telling me the problem is this:


Windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration information (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. (Code 19)

I've tried everything the Troubleshooter says to do and its not a new piece of hardware. The only thing I haven't done is go into the registry and try to fix whatever is wrong. THATS because I don't know what to fix or where to look for it or anything that would do me any good.

If anyone can offer any advice or tell me other information that you would need to help it would be appreciated.Try deleting the item in Device Manager and then restart the machine. What happens now?

What happened PRIOR to this that MAY explain what has happened?It worked . Thank you very much for the advice.You're welcome and thanks for posting back with your success.

I know NOTHING about external video equipment for computers; I WANTED to get phone/video set-up for two family MEMBERS living in two different parts of the country, so they can see each other while talking.  Is it video cam equipment I am looking for?  One party has a Dell desktop, and the other has, I BELIEVE, a Dell laptop - both on high-speed lines.  What equipment do I need to enable them to see each other while talking?  Does it matter what kind of computer they each have?  Which are the most reliable manufacturers of this type of equipment?  What should I expect to spend per computer for this set-up?  And how difficult is it to set up?  Are there added charges when the system is up and running?   Any information that anyone has to offer will be greatly appreciated!  I am completely in the dark here . . . .

Thanks!You need a webcam and microphone on both party's computers.  Something like Hewlett-Packard
HP PG088AA 0.35 MP Effective Pixels 640 x 480 30fps USB Interface VGA WebCam with Integrated Microphone - Retail should work fine.  Or, you could get a separate webcam and microphone.

Software such as Windows Live Messenger could be used for this.Thanks for the info, Soybean - I appreciate the leads!!

I just bought a new case(s340 elite) and installed all my parts in it. After booting, the first thing i checked was the temps using HWmoniter, cam, and corsair link. They all seem to agree on about low to mid 50'sC on the cpu(i53570k) at idle. When i played gta V the temps increased to about 95C. So what i did was re-positioned the heat-sink, radiator, and fans. This didn't seem to work, so then i checked to make sure the pump is working properly in corsair link. it's running at about 2219 rpm. I decided to then re apply thermal paste, making sure not to put to much or to little, still getting high temps and not sure what to do now.

In my other case i was getting idle temps around 30C-40C and gaming temps rarely went over 75C.

mobo: asus p8h77-vle
cpu: i5 3570k
cooler: corsair h80i
gpu: GTX 970The stock air cooler that ships with that CPU is more than adequate...

Did a build for a friend...last i checked idle was 29c...under load never EVEN got to 70c.Run computer with side panel off of it and see if it still roasts. If it still roasts with the side panel off of it then you have something else going on.

Are you overclocking / overvoltaging at all or running normal clock?I tried it with the side PANELS off, same thing happened. I'm not over clocking or doing anything else that's special.

Recently it'll idle at about mid 50's but now when i game it only gets up to about 74C which seems fairly normal to me.
Quote

In my other case i was getting idle temps around 30C-40C and gaming temps rarely went over 75C.

I decided to then re apply thermal paste, making sure not to put to much or to little, still getting high temps and not sure what to do now

I have this Teclast Air II x98 Windows 10/android 5.0. I have noticed that only a slight problem can screw the whole windows 10 to have no other way of correcting but formatting the whole tablet then having to reinstall android + windows and around 40 specific drivers manually one by one until its is ready to be used correctly.
I have a titanium backup to restore the android apks with app data, but windows doest allow this, once it has been installed by usb key, the dual boot partition does not recognize another installer and is replaced by a windows icon and thats pretty much it.

So there i am, windows 10 installed the way i like it, with everything looking like windows 7 and the teclast drivers... can a program take all of this and create an windows 10 installer iso that would ACT exactly like the original installer but with all i added after?

Aside from that the only issue still unresolved would be the front and back camera only working in windows since the drivers are there and working, but android does not detect anything probably since its a custom rom... can anyone convert windows driver into android related tools? or any other ideas?Please do nothing until other members look this over.
Is this your tablet?

https://www.amazon.com/TECLAST-Screen-Windows-Android-Cherry/dp/B01FMDUCDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485918369&sr=8-1&keywords=teclast+tablet
TECLAST X80 Pro 8" IPS Screen Windows 10 Android 5.1 Cherry Trail Intel Z8300 CPU 2GB RAM 32GB ROM Tablet with HDMI

This is a very novel device. When did you get it? Where did you get it?
If under warranty, the best option is to contact the seller first and then the manufacturer. Some stores are very good with warranty issues adn may olet yu have a replacement right away. Otherwise going back to the maker of the device may take weeks.

I happen to have a tablet made by that company. Mine is just an Android, mothering ELSE. I had no idea they made a dual boot android tablet.
Here is a another reference:
https://techtablets.com/teclast-x98-air-3g/review/
Quote

The X98 Air 3G has an Intel Atom quad-core Z3536F that can boost up to 2.16 GHz turbo. Up 300Mhz over the older Z3535F which was used in the previous X98 Model. 2GB of ram on board at 1333Mhz which is a standard affair for this class of cheap tablet. A 32GB eMMC drive capable of 120mbs to 170mbs read and 50-70 write. It depends on which model you get, Teclast is currently using BIWIN, Toshiba and Hynix eMMC 4.5 flash drives in the unit, which one you get is down to luck. It’s often a lottery with these tablets. Edit: As of late most units are shipping with the slower BIWIN eMMC.

Originally the Air 3G was only available with Android 4.4.4 since the CPU isn’t an ARM based one and X86 I can run Windows. Teclast allowed users to flash a Windows bios and then Windows 8.1. And as of today, they now have a dual boot, Android, and Windows 8.1 model that ships with the OS or OS’s installed from the factory so no messing about with risky flashing.

My first Air 3G I got my hands on came with Android 4.4.4 with a Teclast LAUNCHER, broken Play Store, and Chinese bloatware. The experience wasn’t a good one, that is until I got root, removed the bloatware, fixed the Play Store and install Nova launcher. Even so, I didn’t enjoy Android on this device so as soon as I could I flashed over to Windows 8.1, a much better experience in my opinion

Hello.  I have a Lenovo Z570 on Windows 7 and itis my son's laptop. Me being foolish for not looking at a manu for this particular laptop screwed it up. All I wanted to do was TAKE the screen off due to the screen being messed up. The frame of it  as well. I saw on youtube gmhow you can turn a laptop into a desktop by taking off the monitor. So that was what I was attempting to do. I being foolish cut the wifi antenna thinking it was part of the monitor and was not gonna cut the hookup for the display. then cut it on and bad thing was i coukkd not get wifi connection and realized what I did! Then I thought maybe if I take out the wifi antenna since I have a wifi dongle. So I HOOKED it and tried to cut it back on. Omg, it WOULD not cut back on! Then, after reconnecting the antenna back and turned it on, no laptop cut on! I took the battery out since it went out a few years ago and just never bought one. So what can I do at this point?  I wanted to suprise my son about his laptop being hooked to an external monitor as a desktop and unfortunately it won't cut on!! I tried the cycke thing where you hold the power button down 15secs and that did not work. Can disconnecting a wifi antenna cause the whole pc to not cut on??? I'm so so mad at myself for this! Please someone help me. We went thru this...Here..

All THATS required for a laptop to use an external monitor is simply connecting the monitor with all power off and re-booting...Good morning and thanks so much for this. I was actually going to do that by simoly getting a usb keyboard as he already had a usb mouse hooked to the computer and have the computer closed. But I wanted to save money buying a keyboard and use the one the laptop provided. I shouldn't just tried the advanced WAY and just should have went the simpler way. Smh. I will probably just buy him another computer if this little thing messed up the motherboard if that's the problem.

I really like the looks of my build as it is, but I need to save ~$100-$150 on it.
Here it is:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/s83X3F
Please help me save a little money on this build. I don't know where to make the changes.You have a awesome build for the money already...no room to shave anything far as I can see.If you already have an older computer you might be able to save $70. I reuse older cases all the time. For me a SYSTEM doesnt need to be pretty, just needs to work properly. Going with a GTX 780 you could shave off maybe another $60 and have $130 saved.You could always buy USED parts though it could be a bit risky. It saved me about 300$ on my build some years back. But sometimes you get lucky and get fresh parts that works well.
Maybe its out of the question for you but i thought it might be worth pointing out if your on a tight budget like me.

Gl!I STRONGLY urge AGAINST any used parts (unless they are from your own old systems).$150 ? ?

Why not mow some lawns...you could get that in 1 busy day...or 2... Quote from: Allan on February 02, 2017, 01:54:28 PM

I STRONGLY urge AGAINST any used parts (unless they are from your own old systems).

4gb of ram are far from enough these days. No SSD is also absolutely stupid.

So I have a dual monitor setup that was working for awhile, but there seems to be a problem now. The display still seems to be 'working' because I can drag windows into the other screen and sometimes windows even default there, but the screen remains black (even though the indicator light shows blue). When I try to turn it on it either says on for less than a second or stays on for 5-7 ish then goes to black again.
 I'm running windows 10 and have checked connections a couple times already.I deleted the duplicate thread. Please don't post the same QUESTION more than once. Thank you.oh sorry, I wasn't sure if it was a WIN10 or hardware issue so I wasn't sure which one to post it in Quote from: Junuh on January 29, 2017, 11:27:16 AM

So I have a dual monitor setup that was working for awhile, but there seems to be a problem now. The display still seems to be 'working' because I can drag windows into the other screen and sometimes windows even default there, but the screen remains black (even though the indicator light shows blue). When I try to turn it on it either says on for less than a second or stays on for 5-7 ish then goes to black again.
 I'm running windows 10 and have checked connections a couple times already.

Sorry for bad english. So i decided to CLEAN my pc's hardware (including 1 RAM, RAM slots, VGA card, CPU and CPU fan). When i put them together, my cpu fan ran for 1s then pc turned off and it kept repeating itself LIKE that. When i took my RAM out and start the pc, the cpu fan ran for like 10S then pc turned off again and it repeat itself like that. Do you know what problem im facing at because i have no IDEA, never happened before.Also no graphic were displayed during both tests.
How did you clean the components?  Also, have you checked all connections to the motherboard, in particular the 4/8pin CPU power connector - I've seen the issue you are describing before when this is not connected.*censored*, one of the cpu pins on the motherboard was bent, trying to fix it now!
Sounds like some aggressive CLEANING

So I upgraded my GPU and CPU but the stock AMD cooler was too loud and hot, so i upgraded my CPU cooler to this... https://www.google.com.au/search?q=GAMMAXX+200&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQhono5tfKAhUiXqYKHVWhDOgQ_AUIBygB&biw=1920&bih=971

Now... It's perfectly quite! But far too hot whilst gaming, even for 1 minute of game time it gets like over 55c to 67c and i can feel a crap load of heat coming from the top of the case. I would look up the operating temp ranges for that CPU...Are you sure the heatsink is mounted properly?
Was there a plastic cover on the bottom, if so did you make sure you removed it?  Easy mistake to make.
FYI, the amount of heat coming out of the case will have nothing to do with the CPU temperature.I have this same FX-8350 and am running the stock cooler that came with it. My motherboard doesnt utilize the Turbo to 4200 Mhz so my CPU always runs at 4000 Mhz when its full bore. I have Cool n Quiet enabled and so it will idle at 1400Mhz. Max temp I have gotten my FX-8350 to with stock cooler at 4000Mhz running CPU benchmarks to stress test it was 53C in a room that was 70F.

Are you overclocking this CPU at all?
 
Have you run your system with side cover off to see if temps drop down to a max of around 55C?

As others mentioned making sure heatsink is applied correctly is IMPORTANT, and old thermal compound removed before new heatsink and compound applied. New heatsink may or may not have come with already existing thermal paste on it. You cant just mate a CPU to bare heatsink surface without thermal compound or else it will run very hot due to POOR thermal conductance. Quote from: Thundersteak on February 01, 2016, 05:19:19 PM

So I upgraded my GPU and CPU but the stock AMD cooler was too loud and hot, so i upgraded my CPU cooler to this... https://www.google.com.au/search?q=GAMMAXX+200&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiQhono5tfKAhUiXqYKHVWhDOgQ_AUIBygB&biw=1920&bih=971

Now... It's perfectly quite! But far too hot whilst gaming, even for 1 minute of game time it gets like over 55c to 67c and i can feel a crap load of heat coming from the top of the case.

Interesting.... This is answered to exactly 1 year from its start.

The Topic necromancers show up in February...

Just before the Capistrano Swallows...

Will a Lenovo Thinkpad run on 12 volts?If powering off of 12 volts I would use a power inverter to take 12VDC and MAKE 120VAC and then use the proper power supply that came with the LAPTOP and power through that to power the laptop. I would not power DIRECTLY off of a 12V car battery etc.

Look at bottom of your laptop and see what the voltage and AMP rating is if your looking to power it and dont have a power supply for it. I would only use Lenovo power supply of correct voltage and same amp rating. If you go with a lesser amp rating power supply on the Lenovo laptops they can detect this and run underclocked (slower). I have a Core i5 that has a WRONG power supply for it of correct voltage but amp/watt rating is lesser than spec. It can detect this and so it runs at underclock with the wrong power supply.

Hi,
Here's the configuration of the computer.
Acer Aspire M5100
Model: AM5100-U5301A
Motherboard: F690GVM (that's what Open Hardware Monitor shows)
BIOS: Phoenix-AwardBIOS, SMBIOS Version: 2.4, System BIOS Version: 6.00 PC, System BIOS ID: R01-A3, BIOS Release Date: 10.10.2007
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 6000+
RAM: 4 STICKS of 1GB DDR2 NANYA NT1GT64U8HBOBY-25D (looks like these are replaced as there's HP stickers on all of them, besides, I can read 3GB of RAM on the box)
HDD: 500GB SATA II Seagate Barracuda ST3500830AS
Video: Onboard ATI Radeon X1200
Windoes 7 X64 (all updates installed)
Computer fully scanned with Security Essentials and Malware Bytes

Here's the reason I want to update BIOS.
With 4 sticks of RAM installed, LAN won't work. With automatic IP, it shows 169... for the IP issued, although my network gateway is 192.168.1.1. When I set IP manually (something like 192.168.1.150), it still doesn't work. No ping, browsers or anything.
Also instead of any sound you'd get a static noise.
It all goes away when I remove the RAM stick in the 4th socket. A particular stick does not matter, It just has to be 3GB to get working. I have shuffled them. Moreover, the issue persists when I installed another 2 sticks of 2GB (total 4GB) from a different computer. I did neither find any BIOS published at Acer site, nor did I find any instructions for updating BIOS there.
Please help!What tells you a BIOS update addresses the issue ? ?Just a guess.The reason patio asked is because it's not recommended to flash your BIOS UNLESS you know that the BIOS update specifically addresses a bug you are ENCOUNTERING.  If something goes wrong during the flashing operation, you could end up with a computer that will no longer boot and will be difficult, if not impossible, to recover.

  + 1 ^^^

Hi all

I have a Packard Bell OneTwo M3871.  My new phone wouldn't connect to my PC so I went into device manager then serial bus CONTROLLERS.  I uninstalled the USB Devices then re-booted.  Phone would then connect ok.  Now the touch screen function has stopped working. Mouse pointer is ok. Packard Bell support do not have  touch drivers for Windows 7.

Any help would be appreciated.Looking online it looks like Packard Bell has a HORRIBLE support system for drivers. I found a similar article here not sure if it will be any help as for its for Windows 8 and your on Windows 7. https://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/440cbce3-c22a-4553-aab7-54508a03fb48/finding-windows-8-packardbell-touch-screen-drivers?forum=w8itprogeneral

If you have the system recovery media you could always backup your data to an external drive and then perform a FACTORY system recovery to PUT it BACK to the way it was new. Then drivers that are hidden in the recovery image will repopulate to the system and all problems should be gone. System would be restored back to out of box new condition with file system and drivers.

Sorry About my English. It is not my native language

i have pc with rx460 v.card. I connected the computer to 2 screens (TV and a pc screen).

in control panel in this menu >> https://goo.gl/ZZ8wIW I want to set the TV to 150% and the pc screen to 100%. You know what I mean? 150% zoom in TV 100% zoom in pc screen. HOW I DO THIS?

I want two separate desktops. One desktop to TV and one to pc screen. HOW I DO THIS?

I want what I do on TV does not affect what I do on the pc screen and What I do on TV does not affect what I do on the pc screen (Two DIFFERENT entities). HOW I DO THIS? Quote

I want what I do on TV does not affect what I do on the pc screen and What I do on TV does not affect what I do on the pc screen (Two different entities). HOW I DO THIS?

I just installed an SSD in  ONE of my laptops and I find the computer to be more sluggish than when I had the 7200 HDD in the machine.... I did run a test and did all OPTIMIZATIONS I could think of... the SSD is an Intel branded drive if that matters

below is a pic of my crystal diskmark test.... is these speeds any good?

What did you expect?  SSD is BETTER for loading a program.
It never makes you CPU faster.
If you have enough memory, and if the OS will load everything you need into memory, the speed advantage of SSD goes away.
Here is a general reference:
http://www.storagereview.com/ssd_vs_hdd

However, the OS does better if it knows it is using a SSD and not a HDD. If the OS is not optimized for SSD, the advantages are not so good.
This is for windows 7 and might apply to Windows 10 also.
http://www.disk-partition.com/kb/tips-ssd-optimization-windows7-2.html
Quote from: Geek-9pm on FEBRUARY 05, 2017, 10:56:44 PM

What did you expect?  SSD is better for loading a program.
It never makes you CPU faster.
If you have enough memory, and if the OS will load everything you need into memory, the speed advantage of SSD goes away.
Here is a general reference:
http://www.storagereview.com/ssd_vs_hdd

However, the OS does better if it knows it is using a SSD and not a HDD. If the OS is not optimized for SSD, the advantages are not so good.
This is for windows 7 and might apply to Windows 10 also.
http://www.disk-partition.com/kb/tips-ssd-optimization-windows7-2.html

Hi,
Here's the configuration of the computer.
Acer Aspire M5100
Model: AM5100-U5301A
Motherboard: F690GVM (that's what Open Hardware Monitor shows)
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 6000+
RAM: 4 sticks of 1GB DDR2 NANYA NT1GT64U8HBOBY-25D (looks like these are replaced as there's HP stickers on all of them, besides, I can read 3GB of RAM on the box)
HDD: 500GB SATA II Seagate Barracuda ST3500830AS
Video: Onboard ATI Radeon X1200
Windoes 7 (all UPDATES installed)
Computer fully scanned with Security Essentials and Malware Bytes

Problem 1
With 4 sticks of RAM installed, LAN won't work. With automatic IP, it shows the received IP as 169... , although my network gateway is 192.168.1.1. When I set IP manually (something like 192.168.1.150), it still doesn't work. No ping, browsers or anything.
Also instead of any sound you'd get a static noise. By the way, all of these is not mother board position dependent yet.
It all goes away when I remove the RAM stick in the 4th socket. A particular stick does not matter, It just has to be 3GB to get working. I have shuffled them. Moreover, the issue persists when I installed another 2 sticks of 2GB (total 4GB) from a different computer.

Problem 2
Now I'm telling you about the issue with 3 sticks (3GB in total) of RAM installed. OK, now CHECK this out. WHENEVER I lay the box on it's side (horizontal position) everything is cool. When I put it vertical, it's normal position, I start getting a lot of ping time outs, widows update ends up THROWING error 80072EE2, Skype, Team Viewer are offline, although the network sign in notification are show no problems. By the way, I'm sure it's MoBo since I have removed every single component, including MoBO, from the box and have twisted all possible ways. Only the motherboard twist from horizontal to vertical affects it.

Help pleaseMy guess is something not seated right. CPU or heatsink, or maybe faulty motherboard (cracked or damaged). Possibly loose part in PSU. Suggestion: monitor CPU temperature.


Thanks Salmon Trout,
Heat sink is guaranteed to be OK, removed, cleaned, applied new paste and installed myself. Temperature is below 40C.

Hi! This issue is happening on 3 different PCs, to make it easier to explain, I'll note them PC1, PC2 and PC3.

A few days ago, the WD sata HDD from PC1 BROKE. I bought a Seagate sata to replace it. But windows installer kept freezing, so to check if HDD is the issue...
I took the IDE HDD from PC2 and the power suply from PC1 and put both on PC3. I also took 2gb ram ddr2 and put it in PC3 which has a ASUS K8V-X-SE motherboard. When I tried to power PC3, only thing appearing on monitor was "no video connection" and the unit was beeping..
After that, I took the IDE HDD from PC2 and put it back in PC2, left the rest of the pieces untouched. When I tried to power PC2, same thing appeared on screen "no video connection".
After that, I took the IDE HDD from PC2 and put it in PC1 (which was originally running on SATA HDD). Same thing appeared on screen "no video connection".
Finally, I took the ide hdd out from PC1 and put the Seagate sata hdd back in PC1. Took the power suply back from PC3 to PC1. Connected all cables, dusted the graphic card and the ram memories, DOUBLE checked they're well placed, but same thing appears on screen "no video connection".
I took another monitor and connected it to PC1, same thing on screen "no video connection".
I don't know what I'm missing, if there's a cable i'm not PLUGGING, MANY ifs and I don't know how to fix it. It happened on 3 computers so I'm obviously doing something wrongso you started with 2 working computers and a 3rd dead computer. Mixed the guts on 3rd from guts of 1 and 2 and now none work?

I also took 2gb ram ddr2 and put it in PC3 which has a ASUS K8V-X-SE motherboard.

For starters.... not sure how you got DDR2 RAM installed into a DDR 400 slot as the RAM is keyed differently. WRONG RAM. If you powered the wrong RAM in this board you killed the RAM and so for starters you will need to get a healthy DDR2 RAM STICK to put into one of the other 2 computers that is ( if they actually are using DDR2 or are they DDR? )

Here is the motherboard of the 3rd computer. The K8 series motherboard to me stood out as OLD and I didnt believe the K8 to be anything beyond regular DDR 400Mhz RAM: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131577

sharing other motherboards we can determine if they are DDR or DDR2 memory slots

I have a toshiba qosmio x-875 laptop. It's been working great for a couple years now. Lately when playing skyrim REGULAR and special edition, it would freeze up and I had to RESTART. This last time my screen went black and after restarting I could hear the windows music like it was booting up but the screen never came on. I tried connecting it to an external monitor,  took it apart and removed the battery and memory took the graphics CARD out for a few mins and put it all back together again. No luck. Any idea on what happened? If it overheated should I try a new graphics card?  I don't know how to tell what's broken. Any ADVICE would be appreciated! Thanks Nevermind. It's fixed. Removed both ram sticks and it's working great. Now to order new ram. ☹️Thanks for sharing.
Memory ERRORS are not easy to detect.

Need help PICKING a A3 color printer for the office. Can you suggest me some models. Price is around 1000-1300$.
THX in advance.Inkjet or LASER? Or other technology?

Additionally is budget in US Dollars or some other country?

I would like to put a 400w power supply in my 360 so I can run a GTX750TI 1GB graphics card.  Does anyone know of one that would fit my case?  I have the MINI tower not the DT.PSU's are a standard design for tower cases regardless of the watts...

ATX form factor is what you want.Thx, I have a few of those.  I thought Dell had their own design for the psu.  OLDER Dells do...you may wanna look up the pinout specs on it to be sure...Yeah, I just looked that up.  Dell STARTED using standard ATX pinouts with Pentium 4.  I have a Core 2 DUO which was definately after that.

Hello
Please help
 I have a Dell i5 desktop. When I received it it had a bad HDD as in it was corrupted . so I decided to make this computer more of a gaming pc. I upgraded the power supply to 600w . got an ati 6gb graphics card. Added more ram and a brand new he's as well. Now with all those brand bee parts in. I inserted one of my boot discs. It loads up most of the way and then instant shut down no sounds or codes just black SCREEN. Also if i go I to bios for whatever reason it also shuts down instantly when I try to leave. Please helpWhat boot disk are you using?
What new parts did you install?
Can you remove some RAM and boot?
Can you remove the graphics card are you the built-in graphics?
As a diagnostic, can you go back to the older power supply?

The most likely issue is how you installed the new graphics card. Please provide some details. Some graphics cards require a three stage process of getting it right.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 08, 2017, 01:50:52 AM

What boot disk are you using?
What new parts did you install?
Can you remove some RAM and boot?
Can you remove the graphics card are you the built-in graphics?
As a diagnostic, can you go back to the older power supply?

The most likely issue is how you installed the new graphics card. Please provide some details. Some graphics cards require a three stage process of getting it right.

What boot disk are you using?
What new parts did you install?
Can you remove some RAM and boot?
Can you remove the graphics card are you the built-in graphics?
As a diagnostic, can you go back to the older power supply?

The most likely issue is how you installed the new graphics card. Please provide some details. Some graphics cards require a three stage process of getting it right.

Hello people

I have a small problem that isn't really a problem, but i would be nice to fix it. It is just that my MSI GAMING X GTX 1060 is sagging a litte on my motherboard (msi z170 gaming m5), and it would nice to fix it somehow.If it's a heavy CARD it needs SUPPORT...there are aftermarket solutions for that...
That being SAID you could re-orient the case to horizontal.

Note:  After TIME this will cause issues with both the card or the MBoard.

I have a Dell Pentium Dual Core computer with Windows 10 Pro I attached a Western Digital External Hard drive that was working just fine but a few days ago all power went out in my room and my PC with attached external HD went out as well. When I restarted my PC everything seen fine...EXCEPT now my external HD is not being recognized. IR starts up just fine I can hear it I can see the lights come on but I don't see it with a drive letter. What should  do ?


bigal50 Under Disk Management in the computer look there to see if its mounted but shows up as not FORMATTED or not partitioned. It might be there but no drive letter assigned. If you see it there DO NOT PARTITION OR FORMAT IT... instead you will need to run software to scan this drive and correct for damaged file tables.

 If the drive is not detected there then the drive may be damaged. If under warranty you could return the drive for a replacement but all data would be GONE and potentially in the hands of whoever gets your dead drive. Or you can open the enclosure and mount the drive as a slave drive into a desktop computer and maybe then see it in disk management to work on its data recovery or if its the USB to SATA daughter board that blew on the external enclosure through this process of power loss, then your drive might mount up and get a drive letter as a 2nd hard drive in the computer in which all data would be accessible WITHOUT a data recovery process needed.Thanks for the info.....but under disk management I see,  "  Disk one - unknown , Not initialized  "   !?!?!?!?!?!?!?



bigal50 Just to add. I checked the external disk under Device manager and I see that's its working properly has the lastest device drivers the drive is not clicking or whinning.  Its as if the drive is ok (?) i just cant access the data. How is it possible that when the power went out only the data dissapeared ? but the  drive is good


bigal50 Quote from: bigal50 on February 07, 2017, 10:45:12 AM

How is it possible that when the power went out only the data dissapeared ? but the  drive is good

Hi,

I bought a new OCZ Trion 150 480 GB that I want to use instead of my SSHD that I am currently using (Lenovo Y50 70, GTX 860m, i5, windows 10 Home). I have two PARTITIONS on the SSHD: one is 423 GB HDD and the other is 24 GB SSD.

 Is it possible to clone it as one partition only (since the whole new hard  disk is SSD). Also, is it possible to shrink the size of the SSHD so I would get more space on the SSD.

Thanks

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Sorry about your original Post...can you post a screenshot of the SSHD in Disk Management ? ?Acronis True Image Forums... Quote from: patio on July 21, 2016, 11:29:19 AM

Sorry about your original Post...can you post a screenshot of the SSHD in Disk Management ? ?

My Thinkpad is setup similarly (Excepting D: which I deleted). It's currently on a 480GB SSD that I cloned from the original 500GB HDD using Macrium Reflect.

I did a drive to drive partition copy. I believe if cloning from a larger drive one of the v olumes with free space will be smaller than the source.

Hi I am looking at getting a new video card for my computer as the one i have is PRETTY old, I have found one online but before i buy it i just need to no if it will work with my computer any help will be great.
Right now i have a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 Ti but the one i have found for a decent PRICE is EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0, 02G-P4-6157-KR, 2GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC)
Any other INFO needed to help me out i can for sure get thanks again.What MBoard and PSU do you have ? ?For this GPU u does not need any external power outside of the one that Motherboard can provide....the only other thing there is, is wheather your CPU won't bottleneck the GPU. Basicly any newer CPU than i3-4XXX and fx-4350 should do just ok.That's alot to assume with no additional info on what he currently has...

hello every one i have a dell laptop an it looks LIKE my SCREEN is in half..
http://imgur.com/a/mAUj6

i was wondering if it COULD be a screen resolution problem.. or the acutal screen is badWhen you logon to the system is the screen STRETCHED off of the DISPLAY?

Custom build. SPECS are:
GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 mobo
Intel i7-7700K
HyperX Fury DDR4 x2 8gb ram
Cooler Master Hyper D92
MSI GEForce GTX 1080 graphics card x2
Seasonic 850w ATX 12V PSU

As I stated, I GET no display with either the motherboard or graphics cards HDMI ports, and with both sticks of ram in I get error code 55 and with one stick I get error code 62. As far as I'm tracking, all components are compatible. The only possibility that has come up so far is the HDMI port drivers on the mobo are probably not up to date. Only HDMI and DP ports available on mobo, though DP won't be able to be tested until the cable and monitor get in. Thoughts?

PS: Any responses such as "take it in to the repair shop" are not APPLICABLE in this case, as I'm nowhere near something like that. Also be aware that it takes parts several weeks to reach me.
PSS: If you're reading this lostcoast, I just want you to know that nobody loves you. They're lying if they say they do.

MODS: if this is in the wrong section, PLEASE let me know.

Greetings CH forums!

I wanted to get an opinion from you guys on tablets. I was looking at the surface tabs but think its over kill and hate the fact that they are sealed units. Ie no upgrading, hdd replacing etc down the road.. But i need something aside from my apple cell phone to read ebooks, use XBMC, internet access, word documents etc. I thought the surface tabs where a little pricy and over kill for that. As my main laptop has an i7 it has the power i need. I had also looked at the Asus T102HA-RH01 and specs wise it seems ok. But $550 CAD still seems a tad pricy for what it is. So im wondering wha tare you guys using? I thought an ipad, but it has no USB, no SD for additional storage, and super proprietary.

Thoughts? ThanksThis is dictation.
The Microsoft surface Pro is a high-end tablet that has many advanced features. However, whether or not it's the best value for your money is still uncertain. The surface Pro design has been criticized by many as being overpriced and not as versatile as an other tablets.
If you're used to using Windows applications, and if you're more comfortable using fast and responsive applications, then you have a reason to consider the surface Pro.
There are a wide range of tablet computers available, most do not have keyboards and use only the touchscreen.
Here are some of the things you might want in a tablet computer.
Wi-Fi capability with up to class n devices
Bluetooth capability that will allow both a earpiece and the keyboard at the same time. This can be a real neat feature.
A built-in telephone that will allow you to access the 4G LTE networks. When you are outside of the range of a Wi-Fi service, you can use the 4G LTE service to get onto the Internet and access your e-mail and almost anything else.
To my knowledge there is no Microsoft surface Pro that also has a built-in smart phone. For me, that is one of the reasons I would not want to invest that much money in something that will not allow me to have true portable access to the Internet. However, Microsoft might change their position on that that particular point.
The popularity of the android system is because it is both cheap and it has lots of applications. But these applications never have that power and performance of Windows applications running on a Windows desktop or laptop.
In other words, for many the portability is more important than any other issue.
As for myself, if I had the money I'd probably buy a Microsoft surface Pro. But I don't and so I haven't. Instead I make do with the sheep offbrand tablet phone that SERVES my NEEDS when I need to make phone calls or check messages or otherwise take a look and SEE what's on the Internet. I can carry from room to room and take it with me and even go to bed with it. I can't do that with my regular size laptop. The standard size laptop I have is just too awkward to use in bed and the battery life is not very long.
My little 10 inch tablet can go for about six hours before I have to recharge it. So I'm more inclined what he. Around with me from room to room rather than my laptop.
In other words, I'm trying to say that even with its high-priced the Microsoft surface Pro is far from being an ideal portable solution.
Also, do not expect to find an Inteli7 CPU in a portable computer. To my knowledge the Intel i7 is a power hog.
That's all I had to say. My FIRST couple of tablets were Android based and I liked them well enough.  However, once I got my first Windows tablet, I no longer had any use/desire for an Android tablet.  I love the fact that I can run the exact same software on my tablet as I do on my desktop and laptop.  I don't need to learn a new email program or a different browser or Office Suite, etc...

The reason many feel that a MS Surface is an expensive tablet is because it's not really a tablet.  It's an Ultrabook that can also double as a tablet.  I personally have a MS Surface Pro 3 and love it but, if you don't need that much power, then there are plenty of lesser cost Windows tablets around. 

I would shy away from a Windows tablet with less than 64GB of storage as those with 16GB or 32GB of storage don't have much storage available as they come from the factory.  Some of this is due to them having a recovery partition that takes up a portion of the available storage.

There are some decent Windows tablets available from Dell, Acer, Asus, etc...  Here's an article with a few to consider: https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-windows-tablets?id=adw&gclid=CjwKEAiAlZDFBRCKncm67qihiHwSJABtoNIgxbyA0kqzv8NcAfB0PTemNZoj9KHn-79rGogkAU-20BoC69vw_wcB Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 14, 2017, 01:13:25 PM

This is dictation.
The Microsoft surface Pro is a high-end tablet that has many advanced features. However, whether or not it's the best value for your money is still uncertain. The surface Pro design has been criticized by many as being overpriced and not as versatile as an other tablets.
If you're used to using Windows applications, and if you're more comfortable using fast and responsive applications, then you have a reason to consider the surface Pro.
There are a wide range of tablet computers available, most do not have keyboards and use only the touchscreen.
Here are some of the things you might want in a tablet computer.
Wi-Fi capability with up to class n devices
Bluetooth capability that will allow both a earpiece and the keyboard at the same time. This can be a real neat feature.
A built-in telephone that will allow you to access the 4G LTE networks. When you are outside of the range of a Wi-Fi service, you can use the 4G LTE service to get onto the Internet and access your e-mail and almost anything else.
To my knowledge there is no Microsoft surface Pro that also has a built-in smart phone. For me, that is one of the reasons I would not want to invest that much money in something that will not allow me to have true portable access to the Internet. However, Microsoft might change their position on that that particular point.
The popularity of the android system is because it is both cheap and it has lots of applications. But these applications never have that power and performance of Windows applications running on a Windows desktop or laptop.
In other words, for many the portability is more important than any other issue.
As for myself, if I had the money I'd probably buy a Microsoft surface Pro. But I don't and so I haven't. Instead I make do with the sheep offbrand tablet phone that serves my needs when I need to make phone calls or check messages or otherwise take a look and see what's on the Internet. I can carry from room to room and take it with me and even go to bed with it. I can't do that with my regular size laptop. The standard size laptop I have is just too awkward to use in bed and the battery life is not very long.
My little 10 inch tablet can go for about six hours before I have to recharge it. So I'm more inclined what he. Around with me from room to room rather than my laptop.
In other words, I'm trying to say that even with its high-priced the Microsoft surface Pro is far from being an ideal portable solution.
Also, do not expect to find an Inteli7 CPU in a portable computer. To my knowledge the Intel i7 is a power hog.
That's all I had to say.

My first couple of tablets were Android based and I liked them well enough.  However, once I got my first Windows tablet, I no longer had any use/desire for an Android tablet.  I love the fact that I can run the exact same software on my tablet as I do on my desktop and laptop.  I don't need to learn a new email program or a different browser or Office Suite, etc...

The reason many feel that a MS Surface is an expensive tablet is because it's not really a tablet.  It's an Ultrabook that can also double as a tablet.  I personally have a MS Surface Pro 3 and love it but, if you don't need that much power, then there are plenty of lesser cost Windows tablets around. 

I would shy away from a Windows tablet with less than 64GB of storage as those with 16GB or 32GB of storage don't have much storage available as they come from the factory.  Some of this is due to them having a recovery partition that takes up a portion of the available storage.

There are some decent Windows tablets available from Dell, Acer, Asus, etc...  Here's an article with a few to consider: https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-windows-tablets?id=adw&gclid=CjwKEAiAlZDFBRCKncm67qihiHwSJABtoNIgxbyA0kqzv8NcAfB0PTemNZoj9KHn-79rGogkAU-20BoC69vw_wcB

...
My only question would be really how does the USB work? It claims there is 1x USB, 1x USB c, and 1x micro USB. Can i get adapters to use basic USB for the C and micro for like flash drives? Obviously plan to get a 128GB SD card for more storage, but might not need it. ...

...I had also looked at the Asus T102HA-RH01 and specs wise it seems ok. But $550 CAD still seems a tad pricy for what it is...

Hello people!

Since yesterday, i´ve had a small problem with my computer. Nothing that serious, but when i turn off my computer everything is normal, then my screen turns black and my computer shuts off.
But now, my screen turns black and my computer shuts off like 40 seconds later. I have an i7 6700k and 16gb ddr4 3000mhz ram and an 850 evo samsung ssd, so my computer shouldn't be that slow. My computer usually shut off instantly before. It might have happened after i turned on OC Mode on MSI gaming app, but people and msi says that it is completely safe.
Thanks for responds!What happens if you turn off the OC Mode? 

 Overclocking can make a system act like this. My experience with overclocking is that you can find the maximum it will run but it will be buggy, then if you back off in small amounts you can eventually find a overclock in which no bugs occur. I had a Athlon II 620 2600Mhz that I overclocked to 2990Mhz and with 13x multiplier that wasnt able to be changed due to locked CPU and I upped my FSB from 200Mhz to 230Mhz to push for a 15% overclock. The system ran but it was buggy such as a SHUTDOWN would cause the system to completely go out to lunch and the system would stay powered on and fans running and black screen. I ended up having to settle for 12% overclock which is where all bugs and glitches went away so i went with a FSB overclock from 200Mhz to 224 MHZ and got my CPU to run at 2912Mhz. The system ran faster and solid with the 12% overclock. Seeing claims that people got 3.1Ghz out of the 2.6Ghz CPU I tried for it, but to go faster would require adjusting memory and cpu voltage to go higher outside of the normal spec. I decided to leave my voltages alone and keep RAM at 1.95 Volts vs cooking the system for a small gain in performance. These days I have a FX-8350 4Ghz so no need to overclock anymore really. As far as overclocking a laptop, I dont suggest laptop overclocking because laptops always have issues with getting rid of excess heat.Alright, thanks for the response. The problem doesn't occur anymore, though i have OC it a few times.
Good to hear it went away when shutting off the OC mode. 

With overclocking and the delay issue you saw at shutdown, if its really necessary to overclock you can try a slightly lesser overclock until you find a overclock that is bug free and runs cool.

This i7 6700k CPU. Overclocking it would pretty much just be for bragging rights, to say my computer is faster than yours etc, as for I dont see any other purpose. Its powerful enough as is and games will run great on it. An overclock I cant imagine having any performance benefit for current games even the heavy resource games. Only purpose to run that CPU overclocked I could think of is if its being used for mathematical computation and coming to an end result or discovery with whatever scientific calculations that are running sooner vs later by a couple minutes or so matter vs running it at normal clock. In a business where time is money and they want and answer or end result of running computation sooner than later then I can see it worth it to push a CPU hard, but then there is the situation where there are servers out there with modern server class processors that far out perform for mathematical calculations with LARGE cache banks to use and more cores.

Note: If your overclocking your GPU and leaving the CPU alone, you "could" get better frame rates depending on what game your running at the cost of heat and higher electric bill and risk of cooking a video card.

I dont see that CPU at all as any bottleneck to where it needs to be pushed harder. If your looking for maximum noticeable performance I would leave the CPU alone and just focus on the GPU.

Regarding:
Quote

It might have happened after i turned on OC Mode on MSI gaming app, but people and msi says that it is completely safe.

I inquired on another forum about what graphics card would work best on my Optiplex 360 and he mentioned to make sure I didn't have a
 UEFI - Legacy conflict between the bios and the graphics card I want to put in.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewMax-NVIDIA-GeForce-Express-Support/dp/B00WNO327Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486619989&sr=8-2&keywords=gtx+750+ti+1gb

Can someone explain this to me?Somebody told you a new graphics card might not work on an old computer due to a conflict with the legacy BIOS?
Never heard of that. Has anybody?
A more likely  issues is if the old machine has the one  PCIe slot for a modern graphics card.

Well, it does. But look here:
Quote

The problem is that the PCI-E slot on the 360 Motherboard is very close to the CPU fan enclosure whereas most of the graphics cards I've looked at are double width and as such, are too wide to fit.

Somebody told you a new graphics card might not work on an old computer due to a conflict with the legacy BIOS?
Never heard of that. Has anybody?
A more likely  issues is if the old machine has the one  PCIe slot for a modern graphics card.

Well, it does. But look here:That was found on another forum. Look at your machine and see if the card will bump into the CPU fan.

I have the Mini Tower so it's wide open space for all the addon cards.

Watch out, that machine has a BTX form factor rather than the more conventional ATX one. 

ATX and BTX motherboards are built slightly differently, with the slots positioned in different areas, and the distance between the motherboard and the PC chassis increased in the BTX. In terms of layout, the BTX motherboard mirrors the ATX motherboard

The acronym BTX stands for Balanced Technology Extended, and includes various important enhancements to cases and hardware components among its specifications. The primary drivers behind the development of BTX include more efficient PC cooling (or better cooling performance, if you like) but also quietest possible operation.

Among other things, this has the intentional effect of putting PCI Express graphics cards in the path of the CPU fan's air stream.

... so it shouldn't have to work too hard.

A case fan is just a small fan that attaches to either the FRONT or the back of a desktop computer case, from the inside.
Case fans help move air through a computer which, if you recall from the FIRST several tips above, is the best way to ensure that those expensive parts don't get too hot.
Installing two case fans, one to move cool air into the PC and another to move warm air out of the PC, is a great way to keep a computer cool.

No. Well, in theory. But otherwise no.
A good router with the 02.11 ac hardware and software can and does handle multiple streams of data.
The multi-streams of a single router can total more than gigabit.

Here is a link about this topic that goes into much more depth than what I can present here on this forum.
http://www.zdnet.com/article/gigabit-wi-fi-802-11ac-is-here-five-things-you-need-to-know/
I've also placed this link as an answer to a question by a user who wanted to get an adapter that does the new standard. After giving it some thought, I think it's better to start a new thread on this topic.   
First of all, why would you need the new standard for Wi-Fi? What is currently being used on most portable devices is the N  standard. That will let you get about double the data rate of the earlier standard for wireless adapters. The  alliance for Wi-Fi has offered the new ac as a way to increase your theoretical speed on your local NETWORK. However, a close examination of the details shows that you are probably wasting your time trying to get higher-speed with this new standard. I don't mean to say that standards are bad or that we should reject standard just because they're new. No, not at all. Standards are good for us. However it's not always necessary for you to move up to the latest standards. It depends on what you need to do.
Now if you are in the business of doing multimedia and you have to stream to several different clients at the same time and you have to use a wireless connection, then the new standard is for you. The new standard dose MAKE it possible for single router to handle several clients that need very high data rates for very high quality video and audio presentations. But this higher data rate is not going to be available to you for your laptop and desktop computer in your home. The intent was to make streaming possible to several devices at the same time providing different feeds to each device.   

On that note, I would not encourage people to buy a Wi-Fi router or a Wi-Fi adapter just because it meets the newest standard. Many routers and adapters that meet the earlier standard are still very good for most home and business users. 

I hope this clarifies why I was negative on the idea of recommending the latest and greatest Wi-Fi adapters. I just didn't see any reason for.
Now if you one of say I am completely wrong about this,. I am quite used to being wrong about a lot of things. It comes with the territory.  Just to add some perspective:

Quote from: Geek-9pm on DECEMBER 22, 2010, 10:56:44 AM

The wireless N standard is going to die a quick death.  Just wait for the next new thing.

802.11ac ... doesn't just allow for improved speed, but it also has much higher range

I have a HP Pavillion Notebook-17-g015dx with the Realtech RTL8188EE 802.11 b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter. I read on a HP WEBSITE that I can't have bluetooth with that particular adapter, but could replace it with the Atheros AR9565 802.11bgn + Bluetooth 4.0 Wi-Fi Adapter. I've been scouring the internet looking for this adapter and it's very hard to find. Is there another alternative to this? Any advice on this whole situation would be GREATLY appreciated.Get a Bluetooth USB dongle...you likely cant replace your other ONE as it's onboard...I read on a HP website that I can't have bluetooth with that particular adapter
Did they mean to say the Wi-Fi would interfere with Bluetooth?
The thing  you want is SPECIFIC to the HP laptops. It s on Amazon. But it costs a lot.

Why not just try a Bluetooth dongle?
https://www.amazon.com/MIATONE-Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00M1ATR4C/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A9APBJ7VAXRKGXGTA18K

Hello

If anyone has any suggestions on my build please post thank you

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/pRnmm8

Also could you recommenced a better PSU .
And some compatible ram please if you know any.

Thanks.That PC will look awful but gets the job done...  Regarding the prior comment, if you like the way it looks you like the way it looks. I have used a computer case from the late 1990s for a new build before. It was a beige heavy steel case from back when steel cases use to be built like tanks and you could sit on them or put feet up on them and not have to worry about the metal denting or case buckling under WEIGHT like many of the modern thin tin types.

To me a case doesnt need to be impressive, whats under the cover is whats important which are the functional guts. Additionally way back when i use to GO to GAME parties and bring my computer which LOOKED like a small 486 with 486SX decal on it and game. Some new people would be like, your going to play Diablo II on that? It doesnt meet the specs for Diablo II, I then boot it and it was a Pentium III 733Mhz which was more than plenty with Geforce 4 MX 440 64MB video card many years ago. 


Why do you feel you need better RAM and Power Supply?

I recently saw a listing for 4x4 GB DDR3 RAM sticks stating "AMD only, High density". Can that represent a problem for my Gigabyte EX58-UD3R?

Happy New Year! Haven't posted here for a while, so I think this is necessary to be said."High Density" RAM is junk, it just happens to WORK with AMD boards due to them having generally more lenient memory controllers, it will almost certainly not work properly on an Intel board.  Don't fall for the low prices of CHEAP "high density" RAM, GET proper stuff to save on headaches down the line.Thanks for EXPLAINING! Will follow your advice!

Hi guys,

been a while but hope you're all well.

So to the issue.

Specs:
3TB Seagate ST3000DM001 Barracuda, 3.5" HDD, SATA III - 6Gb/s, 7200rpm, 64MB Cache, 8.5ms, NCQ, OEM
16gb RAM
FX-8350 8 core CPU
Windows 10
 
The disk has been checked and there is nothing wrong with it before anyone asks.

Now to the matter, the drive is running extremely slow and bottlenecking everything. If |I download a game on Steam which I'm currently attempting I'm getting write speeds around 150-250 kb/s write speed. The drive is currently using DMA. I did try switching to PIO to see what would happen and for about 5 minutes the drive jumped to around 35-40 mb/s write speed on Steam, but then it reverted to around 150 kb/s. I switched back to DMA and there was no change. Checked the controller drivers and windows says everything is up to date.

At a bit of a loss guys and hoping someone can give me some advice to sort this out.

Thanks in advance
It's POSSIBLE the drive is failing, very low performance is often a symptom. Of course, you don't want to hear that but with a modern system like yours, low HDD performance isn't usually a  systemic issue, though switching to PIO was an interesting technique.

Did you use chkdsk with the /R switch to run a surface scan? /f  or no switch checks critical file system structures, but won't find issues from the hardware.

Of course, perhaps I'm a bit biased- I had the EXACT same drive in my own system, barely used, as a  third hard drive, just last week, and it started giving me similarly bad performance- I replaced it thinking i was being picky, but now the drive is nearly unusable when I tried to transplant it to another system, disappearing from the system, no longer surviving a basic checkdisk as it did at the time, fails the seatools short and long tests, etc. seems it barely survived the cloning process at all!

Best suggestion would be to run the bootable CD of Seagate's Seatools. You can at least fully VERIFY that the drive has no bad blocks with the long test, but make sure to set aside a good number of hours to let it do so. I'd go so far as to say to even replace it before doing so, simply because the act of checking the disk may itself exacerbate the issue and turn it from a low-performance issue to a salvage operation, as I discovered with that very model.Hey BC,

Thanks
Yeah I did a check disk and returned nothing. Also used the seagate tools and ran every basic test and everything passed. May just end up being a new drive at this point but WORRIED that it's win10 issue and I will still be in the same boat.

Frustrating to say the least I thought PIO was  the slowest mode...interesting.
Have you tried enabling UDMA yet and re-booting ? ?Newegg has many people with failures for that drive... I'd get your important data off of it and get a replacement under warranty and hopefully the replacement is better. BC's drive should also be covered under warranty as well for replacement.

I have been kind of nervous with my newer Seagate drives ever since they moved their manufacturing to china. I have seen frequency of drive failures increase. I use to feel safe myself with a new Seagate drive and these days I replicate my data to multiple drives for fear of data loss. I have a 3TB external drive that is a seagate and not sure of the ACTUAL drive inside the case, but after I bought my external I read online that it was manufactured at their new location in China vs their prior location that had better quality control. Because I dont use the 3TB external much I suppose I limit the odds of it dying it might only have 48 hours of runtime on it since I bought it. But I dont have the trust in it to have it as my sole backup location, I have a 4TB Western Digital external that I made a copy of the 3TB seagate to.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148844I had a thought regarding that PIO/UDMA Switch seeming to increase speed as well.

My thinking is that it may be relating the speed that the logical device is accepting data, and until a buffer is full, it would effectively be "full" speed, and then afterwards would slow down. No way to prove it, really; but switching modes may be flushing some I/O buffers, and they provide faster thoroughput from Steam's perspective until they are filled.

It's highly unlikely to be related to Windows 10, though.

Quote

get a replacement under warranty and hopefully the replacement is better. BC's drive should also be covered under warranty as well for replacement.

Hey guys,

So yesterday I built my first own gaming PC. However it simply won't work. As stated in the title it turns on for ~18sec, reboots, and then stays on giving no signal whatsoever. (I tried the Monitor with my old LAPTOP, works fine)

I already tried breadboarding (right term?), so now I only have the CPU, CPU cooler, power switch, 24pin and 8pin CONNECTED to the motherboard on its box. Also tried using a friends PSU because I guessed that's where the problem is coming from, not the case however. Still the same problem.

So now I guess it's the motherboard or the CPU? What to do next? I'm clueless..

THANKS a lot in advance!

EDIT: of course I also have RAM connected to the motherboard. 2 sticks of 8GB RAM in A2 and B2. Already tried switching and only using one stick of RAM.Have you tried re-applying Thermal Paste? The symptoms point at CPU thermal shutdown to me.That's one of the few things I actually didn't try. Might as well do that right now. About the size of a piece of rice right? Sorry first pc build as I Said 

I already put the processor in a second time and it was fully covered in thermal paste (thin layer tho!). Is that how it should be?I never trust pre-applied...See Here...No no, I applied it myselfRe-applied the thermal paste, still no changes.. and I'm sure I did not put too much or too little. Any other ideas?Regardless...whenever the CPU is removed the process should start from fresh...What exactly do you mean by that?You posted while i was typing...ignore last post...
Is it still out of the case ? ?
What make and model is your friends PSU ? ?
Is the RAM on the MBoard QVL list ? ?Still out of the case. Some Corsair 550W. And yes, checked the compatibility.

BTW: i7 7700K
Patriot Viper 8GB PV416G300C6k
Asrock z170 pro4What is the full list of all components?
Does this motherboard have a built-in graphics?
Does it have a on-board speaker or noise maker?
What do the keyboard lights show?
What VOLTAGES can you measure on the motherboard?
What is the full name and model of the motherboard?
Can you provide a link to the motherboard manual?



Some Corsair...that narrows it down....
They are known for 1/2 way decent units...and utter garbage...
Just sayin.

Which PSU did you buy for this build ? ?
Quote from: lars_bu on February 17, 2017, 11:58:47 AM

...now I only have the CPU, CPU cooler, power switch, 24pin and 8pin connected to the motherboard on its box....
So now I guess it's the motherboard or the CPU? What to do next? I'm clueless.....
EDIT: of course I also have RAM connected to the motherboard. 2 sticks of 8GB RAM in A2 and B2. Already tried switching and only using one stick of RAM.

This old computer hasn't been run for probably 10 years and when I tried to fire it up it sputtered and died.  What components usually go bad first? I have no idea who the manufacturer is but it has a Comp USA sticker on it.More info needed. You STATED that it started and then sputtered and then died. Right now does it power on? If it powers on does anything show on the monitor, if so what do you see? If nothing shows on monitor does the power LED on the computer blink a code or does it have any beep code? If nothing on the display but its powered on, does it power on for a bit and then shut itself down after a short period of time? Was this computer stored in a dry place away from humidity and WEATHER?The first time I hit the start switch a small light behind the start switch flickered and it tried to start but that was the end of it.  It wouldn't do anything after that.  It has been stored in a dry place.In order:
Unplug and replug all connectors
Remove and re-seat RAM and any addon cards
Replace CMOS battery
Borrow a known GOOD PSU to test.

That should do it til you get any further...Thx Patio, that was a good list.  I did all that and tried another power supply I had but it had gone bad.  So I took the psu I had taken out of my 360 and hooked it up until I realized all of its power plugs were sata and of course my ancient computer was ata so I clipped a 3 plug WIRE off the bad ata psu and wire nutted it onto the other harness and the computer fired right up.    Evidently the data on the hard drive is totally corrupted because all I got was a white screen so now I need to find the hard drives I took out of my other computers and put the win95 hd in. Quote

So I took the psu I had taken out of my 360 and hooked it up until I realized all of its power plugs were sata and of course my ancient computer was ata so I clipped a 3 plug wire off the bad ata psu and wire nutted it onto the other harness and the computer fired right up.

Dell Optiplex 360
Core 2 Duo 2.93 GHz
4Gb ram, 630w psu,Win7 64
Mini Tower

I had to cut the wire off both psu's and splice the one with ata connectors to the psu that worked so I could hook it up to the computer.  I know all that is a little confusing.

So I just got back from college and tried PLAYING on my PC that I haven't played on in about a year.  I turned it on, it was loading windows then the screen turned black, looks like it rebooted, now the loading circle is GOING really laggy (5fps) and after I log into windows it becomes really slow, it SHUTS off a few minutes after. I've tired un-plugging all my connectors and no luck. It worked fine and fast before I left. I don't think it's overheating because I didn't FEEL any heat come from the cpu.
My laptop also SOMETIMES has this problem. I'm at a loss to this.

Specs: i5 4690k
8gb ram
gtx 970
win10Most likely thing is a stuck fan.
When not in use for awhile a fan can freeze or not run a full speed.
Could also be the power supply? I had very similar problems with mine.

does anybody know of a good o/s to use for one of my machines? this one has a single core Atom without hyper-threading and 2 gb of ram non-upgradable..... I've tried windows xp and it blue screens before install, windows 8 and 10 work but are so slow it freezes almost 100% of the time and ubuntu just shuts the machine off before it can load the "live cd".....  i've also tried Android x86 and Remix OS and it does the same thing as ubuntu... I may try Windows Vista and see how it goes but I would like to save that as my last resort.... would like to note that this computer has a tablet form factor and doesn't have a physical keyboard of any kind or any mouse other than the touch screen.... this computer also only has 1 USB 2.0 port and I don't have any powered hubs but I do have a non-powered hub thoughCan you provide a model number of the thing?
It has a touch screen? I don't think Windows XP could do a touch screen.
Here is a article that lists Linux versions that might work. (I have no way to test.)
http://www.techradar.com/news/software/operating-systems/install-linux-on-your-x86-tablet-five-distros-to-choose-from-1162825
Quote

These days, one of the few growth MARKETS for PC devices is the Windows-powered tablet. While they're superficially designed as touch-friendly tablets, they can be converted into 2-in-1 devices with the addition of a plugin keyboard, which ALLOWS you to effectively use the tablet as a touch-friendly laptop instead.
Most modern hybrids are powered by Intel's Bay Trail Atom chips – they use the x86 chipset, but are seriously underpowered compared to the high-powered Intel Core i7, i5 and even i3 chips. Nevertheless, they're perfectly serviceable for low-end Windows work, and come with Windows 10 preinstalled.
But where are the Linux-powered tablets? We think there's a massive gap in the market, and while we wait for it to be filled we thought to ourselves: why not get hold of a Bay Trail tablet and install Linux on it? After all, if it's x86-based then we can install pretty much anything on it, right?

What OS came on it?

Likely was Windows RT which means that would be his only Windows choice...other than any Linux distro...

Hello,
I have a WD "My Passport Ultra" and yesterday when I went to move some files onto it I couldn't find it listed on my computer. It still shows up in the devises and says that the drivers are up to date but I can't see the drive on my computer. I have Windows 7 on my computer, on the main hard drive. I have a backup hard drive that has Windows 10 and it shows up there and I can see the contents of the drive but when I go to open a file it STAYS there is an I/O error problem. So I was wondering if my USB hard drive is dead or since I can see it on the computer with the back up drive can I still get the files off it. Is there a way to fix I/O error problems or will I have to scrap the hard drive?Well while I am waiting I decided to try a trial version of "easeUS Data Recovery" software. It says I have a lost partition on that USB hard drive and it is scanning the drive right now for files. It's going to take about three hours. So now I am wondering if any one here has a recommendation for a good recovery software for about $60 or less. If it's just a bad partition I could move the files off, reformat and keep using the drive. This is from dictation.
From what you have said, you certainly have reason for concern. The important issue has to do with the age of the hard drive. A few tetra byte Hargraves made a few years ago had a lot of trouble. And it was not just Western digital. If the drive was relatively new the problem could be just a quirk or, abnormality in the manufacture of the drive. Otherwise, the drive has a problem that cannot be fixed if it was one of the earlier drives that had premature failure. It was a very serious MANUFACTURING technique that cannot be easily repaired outside of the factory.
Sorry for the pessimistic note. If you can get your backup drives off of the drive, consider yourself lucky. It is very unusual for a drive their to cause a complete loss of connectivity.
One might suspect that there is some problem other than just the hard disk drive itself. That is to say not just the hard drive disk itself, but also the electronics and power supply that go with it. The drive may have a defective power supply in which case it's not cost effective to try to repair it.
This is not intended as a criticism of Western Digital. products are top notch most the time. But failures to occur in this industry and sometimes there's no way to know ahead of time when it's going to happen.
In addition to using an external hard drive, you might consider also using a cloud service However, cloud storage can be rather pricey if you have a lot of data to store. If you have all the original media used for your programs and your operating system, there is no need to save everything. In case of a failure you could just do a reinstallation of everything.
The most important data to save is the personal stuff you have created yourself. Such would be documents, photos and videos and any music that you have created yourself. Usually this kind of material does not take up a lot of space, with the exception of video files. But video files, in my opinion, should be burned to DVDs where they can be kept as long as you like.
If you check the current prices for external backup drives you'll see that the prices have come down somewhat and that the effort needed to try and repair the defective drive far outweighs the cost of just buying a new one.
That is about all I have to say. Hope you are able to get your data back.  Thanks Geek-9pm.

I keep looking at the software trying to scan the faulty USB drive and it still says it will take about 2.5 hours, it's not looking good for that drive. I think I will get a new one. I don't think there is any really important files on that drive. Yes I like WD hard drives, have been using them for many years without a problem. I think i will get a new internal one and forget the USB part. Thanks again.An I/O error can be a connectiion/cable issue...and it sounds like it in this case you describe.

Before giving up on it i would remove it from it's housing and either hook it up internally...or in another known good external enclosure...
If neither works than you can assume it's the HDD. Quote

Before giving up on it i would remove it from it's housing and either hook it up internally...

pealing the s/n label off the back and see if there are screws under it.

That said, on those drives the USB connector is part of the hard drive itself, i.e. it doesn't contain a regular SATA hard drive with a converter board so you can't take the drive out and connect it to a PC directly over SATA.

You may ask yourself, "Why would I want to buy a Passport external when I could just upgrade the HDD with an internal HDD?" Upgrading the HDD with a WD Passport allows you to install the original 80GB HDD into the Passport enclosure. Now you have a 250GB internal HDD and an 80GB external for the price of one.

Hi all, I have a £190 voucher on C ex exchange shop and am looking to purchase an equivalent priced 2nd hand laptop from them.  Here is there website - https://uk.webuy.com/search/index.php?sortOn=box_rating_desc&stext=laptop&section=all&layout=grid
My wife has a good laptop and all im looking for is a basic reliable one for me - i am not INTERESTED in gaming.  I would use it for browsing, looking through/storing pictures, watching tv programmes /films on and doing some basic microsoft word work on it.  I USED to have a think pad lenovo which i loved type 2847 - it lasted me abou4-5years and worked quick and don’t remember having much issues with it.  Anyway it died and I used my wife's old sony model PCG-61211M.  This laptop was ok also but was quite old on me starting to use it and died again.  I am currently using my dad's lenovo - which is new but was slow for him and i'm finding the internet slow too it’s a lenovo B50-30.  I'm giving this info to show what kinda laptop worked well for me in the past to try and help for you to know what best to suggest for me if anyone has the time. 

This one looks like a good match and STAYS in the budget of your voucher at 185

https://uk.webuy.com/product.php?sku=SLAPSAMRV52009B#.WKMqv_JgiJMyou can't see the big red OUT OF STOCK?  lol Quote

you can't see the big red OUT OF STOCK?  lol

I purchased a HP Officejet 250 All-in-one mobile printer and installed the full software onto my Toshiba Tecra W50.  The printer is wireless and connects onto a network or by WIFI Direct.  When I go to print documents nothing will print.  I called HP support and they troubleshooted for over an HOUR with me and concluded that it's a computer hardware ISSUE.  They said they tried installing other printer drivers and it won't install other printers either.  They think it's some hardware issue with the Toshiba laptop that is preventing printer files from being accepted and installed.  One thing I don't understand is why does it seem the printer and laptop are communicating through network because it's being recognized.  But problem is it won't print.  I cannot call Toshiba because they don't have a 24 hour Tech support line.  I'm on a deadline and need the printer ASAP.  Can you please help me resolve this issue?HP Officejet 250 review:
https://assets.pcmag.com/media/images/515784-hp-officejet-250-mobile-all-in-one-printer.jpg?thumb=y&width=333&height=245

Here is my best advice if on a dead line. Run to the nearest office supply store with a helpful tech person. Ask him or her to print a document for you as a DEMONSTRATION. Have the document in PDF format on a USB stick.

Can yu get to the wireless printer with your SMARTPHONE? Send the document to your smartphone  an attachment to an email. Again, try PDF as the file type.

As an alternative to PDF, used RTF.
Has the printer ever worked for you?

EDIT: Are you in a hotel? Do they have a printer you can get into over the local wireless? Can you send your document to the  hotel  as a FAX?
http://www.tomsguide.com/us/best-online-fax,review-2124.html
The above might help if you don't already have a FAX service.

I have just got a new PC and I have a little problem with this PC and I was wondering if you COULD help me out. When I first launched the PC it went all smoothly then it CAME to a welcome to windows 10 and asked me to fill in details such "select a country" and so on however my mouse or keyboard doesn't seem to be working. The lights on the keyboard light up when the PC starts up but as soon as windows 10 is loading the keyboard lights go as well as the mouse not working at all.

I have tried the same keyboard and mouse on a different COMPUTER and it works on that.

If you have any ideas on what to do please let me know. Thank youCheck in bios for a setting to enable USB at boot

Can you tell me?
Trying to keep up on the semiconductor technology GIVES me a hard time.
Once upon a time 14 nm was the best thing evermore to come to technology.

Then it was the 10 nm. And then 7.
http://semiengineering.com/10nm-versus-7nm/

This month Intel says they will spend $7 billion to build a 7 nano meter chip.
What?
More money to make something smaller? 
How can that be?
Will I need a microscope to build a custom  PC?

Anybody here ever work in a semiconductor fab?
Are there any experts here to explain why we need 7 nano meter
What went wrong with  the 10 or 14?

Why so small? 
Anybody?  Stop reading Tech ragazines... Quote

This month Intel says they will spend $7 billion to build a 7 nano meter chip.
What?
More money to make something smaller? 
How can that be?
Will I need a microscope to build a custom  PC?

Anybody here ever work in a semiconductor fab?
Are there any experts here to explain why we need 7 nano meter
What went wrong with  the 10 or 14?

Why so small? 
Anybody? 

Are there any experts here to explain why we need 7 nano meter
What went wrong with  the 10 or 14?