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Good evening all,

New to these forums as I usually like to work at finding the problem myself but I'm stumped, granted the problem at times can be between the CHAIR and the keyboard. 

Bought the two monitor pack of the model listed in the subject line (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GQP7NXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and also to replace two dated 23inch Dell S2309W from 2010. My Dell MONITORS I believe operated on DVI ports of which my PC has three. To my surprise when I opened the box with both new monitors, two separate cables were present. What I believe are the blue-headed VGA cable and a cable for a display port.

Both monitors have three ports, VGA, DVI and digital
I plugged the one I wanted as primary, digital port to digital port PC (only one) and VGA cable the second monitor.

Monitors turn on but no signal.

I then tried the DVI cable from my old monitors on new monitor and to PC DVI port, no signal.

Finally I tried the VGA port monitor to PC with the same result.

The only thing I can think of is that my video card is quite old but I can still play some very recent games (or could) even as pf LAST week (not sure if that's relevant).

Any input or insight would be truly appreciated. Hope this message finds you well.Sorry all that should read "display" port and not "digital" for CLARIFICATION.

I built a new PC couple months ago, it had a Corsair TX650M PSU but after a few weeks its capacitors popped and I had to RMA it. The new one arrived a few days ago, FIRST couple of days it worked fine, but today when I turned it on it shut down itself in a couple of seconds. I turned it on again and it worked fine, after doing my work I shut down the PC again. Then when I turned on the PC again couple hours later, it shut down again in a second.



What is causing the problem? Is this PSU also faulty?

Parts LIST - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7HkKjp

Also, this TIME I am also using a UPS RATED for 1100VA/660W where I have plugged in the PC, the monitor and the wifi router. Could this have something to do with the issue?

I'm not a data recovery wiz, though I'd kind of like to get there someday.
My old laptop stopped booting, I ripped the hard drive out and set it aside as a future project. Well, I finally plugged it in to my external enclosure and the results are less than I hoped for. Assuming the sound of the device in question may help determine the issue, I took a video. Maybe someone more experienced than I could point me towards a starting point to recovering the data, if possible? Any guides I see assume that I have a drive letter, and I don't.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/17NHUZYX09leAwJhgTiKD9Odw9Di6xU2y/view?usp=sharing

   -OR-

https://youtu.be/ZA_Hmu-3yg8

Thanks for looking! Hi
the drive has a physical fault which you can't fix with software tools. You need a data recovery company specialists in opening drives and repairing head damage.   I was afraid that may be the case. As nice as it'd be to save my music projects, art, etc., its not thaaaat huge of a deal. What do you think the chances are of complete noob to pop it open and wiggle a few parts around, and be successful? It should be a good experience.

Thank you.No chance as it needs a head stack replacement before it will work and likely there could be plater damage as well.Not SURE what part of the US or the world you are in but the only place I have worked with that is successful with that sort of recovery without overcharging is called Electronic ER in El Cajon CA.  I have sent them probably 6 of these jobs over the years and RANGED from $600 - $1000.  Only one did not get recovered due to platter damage and they did not charge for it.  I have attempted recoveries at several other places and spent a lot more for recoveries that lost the filenames and folder structures :-(

I have since moved just south of Austin Tx so if anyone has any RECOMMENDATIONS out here it would be much appreciated.

Good Luck!

I attached the file regarding the two drive I NEED to seperate. I have SEEN my question be displayed on the community but i cannot access the intel rst option when the POST by holding ctrl i nor can i enable ANYTHING in my system bios to enable me to press ctrl i. I've looked everywhere but i cannot find help. I have an ACER 515 54 728c and recently updated my bios to V1.31. PLEASE I WANT TO USE MY OTHER DRIVE.

the COBY KYROS MID8042 tablet will not start... just frozen on the startup screen saying "COBY" - how to fix? with buttons combo? using memory card (sd card) that has reboot TYPE of program? (the buttons combo is preferred as i'm not sure i have an sd card, thanks)OK, can you understand Spanish?
Here is a video showing how to force a reset on hat tablet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Izd0fXuZgE0
What h does is hold down the power button and the volume up button at the same time.
That forces all data to be erased and the system is set to FACTORY original settings.
You can  do it. Just keep trying.

If you want a new 7 INCH tablet, consider Amazon, Target or Walmart.
Look at this list of good and  cheap 7 inch tablets: (But the Apple is pricey.)
https://tabletunderbudget.com/best-7-inch-tablets/
Look at The ASUS ZenPad 7-inch tablet.
It has Andoid 5.0 Lollipop.


Instructions on how to get your tablet into recovery mode in the link below for your specific model ALTHOUGH I see it mentions the old Android 4.0 (not sure if that even matters now). If you can get your tablet to recovery mode, you can try the the options there to see if it helps (esp that wipe data/factory reset mode knowing that if you try that you should probably use the backup option in that recovery menu beforehand unless you are okay with losing or potentially losing data)

https://www.hardreset.info/devices/coby/coby-kyros-mid8042/recovery-mode/


If going for a newer tablet, probably want android 6.0+ (although I see android 6 support is dropped already by google so they say, you may have older apps that don't support 5.0 anymore in terms of future versions coming)
Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 28, 2019, 05:48:24 PM

OK, can you understand Spanish?
Here is a video showing how to force a reset on hat tablet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Izd0fXuZgE0
What h does is hold down the power button and the volume up button at the same time.
That forces all data to be erased and the system is set to factory original settings.
You can  do it. Just keep trying.

If you want a new 7 inch tablet, consider Amazon, Target or Walmart.
Look at this list of good and  cheap 7 inch tablets: (But the Apple is pricey.)
https://yarkoweb.com/best-tablet-for-students/
Look at The ASUS ZenPad 7-inch tablet.
It has Andoid 5.0 Lollipop.

I have a brand new computer build in an old case where everything seems to work except for the front panel connections (the front panel buttons still work).
Honestly, I'm not sure if this is the right category, but I have a couple of issues.

One, when I push the power button on my desktop case, the computer seems to turn on normally, all the lights and fans turn on and there are no beeps. When I push the power button again, the computer stays on. I've tried holding it down for 5, 8, and 10 seconds but it still won't turn off. I can only turn it off by flipping the switch on the power supply in the back.

Two, even though my monitor plug-in is a DVI and my motherboard has a corresponding DVI port, I still get "no signal" when I start up the computer with the cable connected. I've tried connecting the cable to three different graphics cards instead and nothing changed. I also connected the monitor to another desktop and the display worked, so I've ruled out the monitor and DVI cable.

Specs:
Motherboard: TUF Gaming B450-PRO https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4N68SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B41WS48/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Case: Cooler Master HAF x nvidia https://www.newegg.com/green-cooler-master-haf-x-nvidia-edition-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811119236
Graphics cards: EVGA GeForce GTX 670, 570, 460

Hi GUYS!

I'm new here and I'm having some seriously annoying problems with my Dell Inspiron 3558 Windows 10 PC. See here: https://imgur.com/LJsUnXl

Suddenly my PC started randomly going grey with vertical lines across. When it happened, the PC was still completely responsive. If I was playing music using the speakers, the music kept playing and touchpad movements were still indicated on the now grey display as a movement of the vertical lines.

It was fixed by closing the lid and reopening it or putting it to sleep and waking it back up. Essentially, it was fixed by anything that made the screen turn off, even a timeout. At first it wasn't very frequent, but over time it became very frequent and I worked around it by closing and reopening every time it happened.

I updated my graphics driver, and BIOS. Nothing changed. Then, something interesting happened. While booting, before starting to load windows, it happened. So I ruled out driver issues and software issues, right? It looked like a hardware issue, so next, I drained the residual charge on the PC, and left it off for 2 days with the battery out. After the two days, I powered it back on, and it seemed fine, but for only a day which, by the way, was much longer than it had ever gone without going grey since it started having the issue. This RAISED some questions for me, but I'm no guru so i didn't know what to conclude. Then, I was finally able to test it out on an external monitor ( wasn't physically able to do it before for some reasons) and so I waited for it to go grey and it did and I connected it to my TV via HDMI and the display was fine on the TV and still grey on the PC.

I handed it to a technician and he said it was the video cable, which he replaced. He then returned it to me and It worked fine for a day and then it happened again.

Again, I'm no guru and correct me if i'm wrong but all my observations led to me ruling out the video card, RAM, motherboard and software related issues. I think it's the LCD. What do you think?

Any form of help and insight would be hugely appreciated, this has been a real pain in the neck.

Looking forward to your replies!

It may very well be the panel.  Is the LAPTOP under warranty?  If so, contact Dell and let them fix it.

There are quite a few vendors selling replacement panels on Ebay.  Is your touch or non-touch?  It is a relatively easy fix to switch out the panel.Hello!

Thanks for the reply.

What do you mean exacty by 'panel'? Alos, there are some details I forgot to add that I think are worth noting. I ran the DELL LCD Bulit in Self Test and there were no problems. Also, the problem seemed to happen more on battery power. Quote from: strollin on October 19, 2020, 05:28:14 AM

It may very well be the panel.  Is the laptop under warranty?  If so, contact Dell and let them fix it.

There are quite a few vendors selling replacement panels on Ebay.  Is your touch or non-touch?  It is a relatively easy fix to switch out the panel.

Hi

Do you have an HDMI cable and monitor or TV if so you could try it if when the internal display corrupts the external doesn't then it is the screen which is faulty.
I suspect the screen is the cause.

Hey, everyone. I'm running into an issue with my MSI GS63VR 7RF laptop. On Sunday, I went to go start it up and it came up with the following screen:



I tried to follow the recommendations on several sites to fix the issue, such as the instructions on this website:
https://www.diskpart.com/windows-10/boot-configuration-data-file-is-missing-windows-10-0310.html

Fortunately, the recovery screen came up, and I used the terminal to copy my files to an external. Once I transferred my files off, I reinstalled Windows 10. It worked for about a day. I started my laptop this morning to do school work (yep, this happened right in the middle of the semester...just my luck), and got a black screen. I then shut down the laptop and turned in back on, and all it did was boot to the MSI screen with a spinning loading wheel, then would turn off and go back the MSI screen with the message "Preparing AUTOMATIC repair". It would go back and forth between these two screens. Eventually it came up with this screen:



Now, when I try to start it up, it immediately goes to the recovery screen, similar to this one:


I'm not sure what is going on, but I need to get my laptop up and running again. Any troubleshooting steps I could take or ideas of what could be going wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all so much. Normally when Windows 10 gets in an UN repairable loop it is ether memory or something wrong with the hard drives or how they are configured. Your laptop can have 2 drives an M2 drive which is optional and a standard  mechanical drive.
Depending on the configuration will depend on how you proceed. If it is 1 drive it is likely failing and will need replacing or if you laptop has the M2 option then it could be this is not configured correctly.
Do you have any other info on what happened before the laptop failed and what spec the Laptop is.
 When I got this computer back in MARCH (used), I took out the existing hard drives and put in a Samsung 870 QVO-Series MZ-77Q1T0B SSD that I purchased new from Amazon. Considering I had just installed Windows 10 and it was essentially immediately having issues, I figured it might be the hard drive. I also just replaced the memory in the laptop with brand new memory modules. Nothing I know of really happened before it failed...nothing specific that I can point out anyways.

Last night I installed an older 850 Pro I had laying around and it seems to be working ok so far (fingers crossed). Figured I'd test it out over the next couple of days while I keep the temp laptop I received from the school to finish my courses this semester. Do you have a Sata to USB adapter ? If you do perhaps download a trail of HDentinal from here https://www.hdsentinel.com/
And check the Samsung drive, you may also consider copying the original drive which is working to the Samsung if it tests ok.
I would be interested in both drives maximum temperatures as is could show if the Laptop is over heating or has been over heated.

You could use https://www.easeus.com/backup-utility/free-disk-cloning-software.html
To copy the drive
 So close to a week now with my Samsung 850 in and no troubles thus far. So I'm pretty sure it was the new drive with the issue. My 850 is sitting at 41 Celsius right now, and my computer fans hardly ever turn on, so I definitely don't think it was any sort of heating issue. I do have a Anker SATA adapter that I could possibly use to test. I think I'm just going to have Samsung replace it though. Well, a week now with the computer working, I went to turn it on this morning and now it just goes directly into the bios. I’ve done probably 8 hard resets and this is all it does now. So probably is something other than the drives?

This is what it does: https://youtu.be/GSdo7-rN-tsAlso, just checked the bios and it’s not showing any drives listed
Took my Samsung 850 out of the laptop and put it in my Anker external SSD enclosure, plugged it into another computer we have here in the house and the files are being READ, and I can write to it as well. Any ideas what could be wrong?Just checked the CMOS battery since I read it could be that, and it’s coming in at 3.262VReplace it...remove all power 1stDoes it need replaced? I heard if it's over 3v then it's good. Also, I just put the computer back together, and before I put the bottom cover back on I started it up, and it booted. I put the cover on and it went to the screen with the MSI logo with a spinning loader animation and wouldn't boot. Did a hard reset and now it turned back on.

I am perplexed. I just don't understand what the *censored* the issue is. I can't afford to take it to someone right now (nor do I have the time to spare to do that because I'm in the middle of a semester). Just replaced the CMOS battery. Let's see if this helps. So after working on my computer this morning, I went to turn it back on from sleep and it went straight into Bios. After 4 hard resets it finally booted into the OS, thank god. So it's not the CMOS, it seems. Also doubt it's the hard drive since it happened on two different drives (unless both drives are bad at the same EXACT time, and when one of them was basically new and are both coming back as "good" using Samsung's software, so it's unlikely they are bad).

I'm at a loss of what to do next. Anyone have any ideas? I want to chuck this thing into the river and just get a new laptop, but I don't have the money for that, unfortunately. Looking at a tear down of your Laptop there is an orange cable connecting the hard drive to the motherboard. You need to be very careful handling this cable as it is easy to damage.
There is a video here and you can see the cable at 2.03 minutes. Likely that cable is damaged and is now intermittent.

https://youtu.be/9HWIdaWYAG8

if so you will need a new cable available from here https://www.ebay.com/p/581034378?iid=223857989401
Yeah I know what video you're talking about. I've messed with that cable replacing the hard drives. I remember having difficult disconnecting it, so maybe a bit too-much force caused the cable to break. I'll see if getting a new one helps. Never thought if the cable being bad, so thanks for the suggestion.

So today morning everything was fine but when i FLASHED a linux distro Pop OS on my system which alredy has a windows 10 working
So pop os was flashed as a legacy type and my laptop supports both UEFI and legacy
Main PROBLEM was i chosen ESP partition as the boot for linux and an empty partition for a root
So after a reboot only pop os SHOWS up as a legacy windows disappeared
But the main problem happened is after a multiple reboots
My system end up with a black screen no POST no BIOS screen no
Only keyboard backlights for 1 SEC. And display backlights for eternity
Note display baclights are turning on but no display
And i am SURE system is not booting up behind the bars
Fan speed boosts to its limit
Tried bios recovery option by windows+b method
But no luck
Can anyone please help me on this

I've had a problem a few times recently when powering on my PC that it would boot to the BIOS screen instead of loading windows.  I have W10 installed on a 256gb M2 drive and when it boots to BIOS it says the M2/SSD is not present, but my other TWO physical drives are listed.  After a few cycles of powering down and restarting, I'm able to get Windows to boot up and everything runs fine.  My initial thought was the M2 drive was failing, but wouldn't it fail outright instead of working occasionally?  I've also noticed recently a soft, MUFFLED clicking sound coming from my case which I've traced to the PSU, so I'm wondering if that's the problem as WELL (even though its new, only about 6 months old).  I did update the BIOS through MSi so that's current, but short of just leaving the PC on all the time and NEVER powering down, I'm not sure what else to do.  Any suggestions? 

Specs: 

MSi B450 Tomahawk mobo
Ryzen 5 2600 CPU
Nvidia Geforce 2700 Super
32gb Corsair Vengeance RAM
Intel 256 M2 ssd running Windows
1tb internal HD
2tb internal SSHD

Thanks! What PSU ? ?It's an EVGA Supernova 750 G5 80 Plus goldA friend of mine mentioned it might be the mobo causing the problem...?  I built the PC since everything these days is pretty much plug and play, but issues like this are beyond me, other than just throwing money and new parts at it.
Just following up hoping for some suggestions...
Sorry for your wait for a reply

I have checked the compatibility of all the components in your system, There doesn't seem any problems there, You don't give the model of Intel M2 drive as there is only 4 on the MSI website tested with your board maybe the non boot is a problem with the board and M2 drive.

The ticking sound from the power supply. Is this only with the computer powered up or even with it plugged in before the computer is powered on?

Either way the power supply shouldn't tick. And you could have it replaced under warranty.
Normally when a power supply ticks is a sign it is overloaded or not up to handling the load. There is 2 power supplies in one, a 5 V standby supply and the main supply. The 5 Volt standby powers the startup circuit and some usb ports, it would pay to check the USB ports for damage.

Keep US posted what you find
i had a similar problem and found out my video card was overheating my m.2 ssd , also check the mem banks on ram , they can interfere with the channel of the m2

I just purchased a Dell Precision T7500 from ebay. It has 2x Xeon 5680 hex CORE cpu's, 96 gb of ram, a 128gb SSD start up disk on MB sata, a 2tb HDD and 3-300gb 15k sas drives on a Dell PERC 6/i adapter, it also has an LSI external raid card. I have no need for the raid, so I decided to pull the external raid card which wasn't in use, to install a pci-e to usb-3 adapter in it's place. I got as far as pulling the raid card out. I restarted the COMPUTER and when it was loading windows, the fans started ramping up SLOWLY and stayed on full throttle. It hadn't done that before. I checked the temp of the cpu's on Speccy, and they were running between 35-47 degrees C. on idle. That seems within spec, but before that they stay at about 25-29 degrees. My intentions with this build is to remove all the raid adapters and replace the PERC with a PCI-e to Sata 3 adapter, and also install the USB 3 adapter as previously mentioned. Anyone know why the fans are running full throttle (BTW it sounds like either the PSU fan or the HDD fan) and how to fix it?Crisis averted: this problem fixed. Took out the riser card and removed the heat sinks on both cpu's and reapplied thermal paste. Beastie is back to running cool and quiet.

Hi all
I recently brought my laptop to the shops to get the keyboard and CMOS battery changed

When I got it back I noticed that I was getting this STRANGE notification, EVEN when fully charged, and about 2 minutes after i get it my laptop will go into standby as if it doesn't have battery



Now my laptop previously had about 4 hours of charge USUALLY so the 4 hours is about right for a 100% charge

I updated my BIOS, and checked for the latest driver using DEVICE Manager and got nothing

What else can I do? I'm really really hoping its a SOFTWARE problem

I'm running Win 7 SP1

List of diagnostics that I've run so far

Report from powercfg -energy
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ndvdxa196bk4rwl/energy-report.html?dl=0

Bios


Critical battery action


Battery Info View



Report from Dell Diagnostic
bump

I'm not very hardware savvy so I'll TRY to explain this as best as I can.

I have an old monitor that I use with my desktop PC. I was using a VGA cable, with a DVI adapter, to plug the monitor into my onboard graphics card (the horizontal DVI slot). Today I bought a new monitor. It has both a VGA and HDMI slot. When I try to connect the new monitor in the same way (VGA with DVI adapter) I get the "Check Signal Cable" (analog) MESSAGE bouncing all over my screen. I can hear the PC starting, but all I see is this message. I tried with the HDMI cable too, but GOT the same result. On the flipside, when I plug the VGA cable into the vertical VGA slot the monitor works fine, as in I can watch videos and browse the net without issues, but I cannot get any video games to work.

I figured it may be an issue with the monitor itself so I plugged my old monitor again just to test things out, and now even that won't work. The VGA with DVI adapter method gets me the same "Check Signal Cable" message.

It's worth mentioning my OS is Windows 7 (64 bit), and my graphics card is Intel Core i5-2400. Also, the monitor came with a CD so I installed a driver for it off of that. I've check to see if my graphics drivers are up to date and they seem to be.

I hope I explained this well. Does anyone have any ideas how to fix this?Since you get the same issue using the cable/adapter with either monitor, I would suspect SOMETHING happened with either the cable or the adapter, perhaps a bent or corroded pin.  Any chance that you could try another cable or adapter?Hi, strollin. Thank you for the response.

I just tried what you suggested and bought a new cable and adapter. Didn't fix the issue, sadly. When I plug the monitor via the VGA cable with DVI adapter option I no longer get the "Check Signal Cable" (analog) message, but the screen stays black, even though the OS itself is running. So then I tried via the VGA cable only and still cannot get any games to run (I get a message that there is no DirectX 11 support and/or that the GPU does not meet the minimum requirements), but there's also a certain flickering on the screen too, which isn't there when I'm using my old VGA cable.Issue has now been resolved. It turned out the graphics card needed to be reseated.

Hello everyone!
I was trying to find the answer to my question on my own but have completely MIXED up 
I’ve installed a security camera system from Lorex with DV7041W DVR. I have a SATA drive from my old COMPUTER and I am interested in whether it can be connected somehow to my system.
I found an adapter that according to its description is able to make an external drive out of internal. People on review sites write that it is easy to connect to a computer or a laptop but I failed to find any information whether it is compatible with DVRs.
There is no information in the DVR manual either.

Here is the instruction manual for my DVR - https://www.lorextechnology.com/downloads/security-dvr/DV700-Series/DV700_SERIES_MANUAL_EN_R1.pdf
and the link to the adapter I wrote about - https://primebuy.com/product/manhattan-179195-usb-1-1-to-sata-ide-adapter-black

Hope you know something about it. Thank you!
I'd open the DVR carefully and inspect what type of hard drive is in it. If the drive in it is a SATA it should accept the drive you want to put into it, however some use 2.5" drives while others use 3.5" drives, and so if you have say a laptop SATA drive that is 2.5" you could put it into the DVR if the bay accepts a 2.5" or 3.5" drive. Just would need to get a 2.5" to 3.5" mounting tray if it accepts normally 3.5" drives.

If the DVR only accepts 2.5" drives and your drive is 3.5" you would have to get a SATA extension CABLE and power extension and mount it external to it. But it would be EASIER to stick to 2.5" drives if thats what it accepts.

The USB to IDE/SATA adapter might not have enough bandwidth to write the video capture data to it on the fly. The internal DVR hardware might be proprietary as well as not have proper drivers for writing the capture to external drives over USB. The file format that the data writes to the drive may also be something proprietary to that DVR and in some instances the data is encrypted to protect the data from tampering.

I bought a Vostro PC from Dell and stipulated that I wanted a monitor with HDMI      Not accessible to me for awhile (PAST their 30 day warranty)  there is no HDMI  on the monitor     There is something LABELED DP but not such socket on the Monitor.   Dell is of ZERO  help.  What is a DP connector?    Is there an adapter to make the monitor usable other than going back to VGA?DP stands for Display Port.  You can get a cable to GO between VGA and display port.  https://www.amazon.com/s?k=vga+to+displayport+cable&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy579BRCPARIsAB6QoIbOQtTKH8PPcfmaPiu7avWbHhZSQ6Ot_8N64rrD2Kjxf0_0IIfq05AaAiDqEALw_wcB&hvadid=174231055138&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032482&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5529681666248813213&hvtargid=kwd-29509560308&hydadcr=19135_9441244&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_456596dvp8_e

Long story short, a while ago, I bought and returned a hard drive that still had sensitive information on it including SOCIAL security number, passwords to online accounts, etc. At the time, I thought that I removed all the information on the hard drive because I quick formatted it a few times in a row just to be sure. However I just became aware that quick formatting is not the same as true formatting, wiping, degaussing, or sanitizing. My information is on there and its been messing up my entire life. I've been constantly stressing about it, and even losing sleep. I tried to go back to the store and see if they still had it but they said it was already sent back to the manufacturer to be refurbished and resold. I told them why I needed it and they said not to worry because they “remove all the data” before reselling it. I’m not sure what that means exactly, but I’m afraid they would only do a quick format just as I did. Now as far as I’m concerned I only have 3 hopes left of my information being safely destroyed, and they are as follows:

1.The manufacturer actually does perform a full sanitization of the hard drive before reselling it.

2. the next person who gets it sanitizes it themselves

3. the person who gets it next puts so much information on there, that it overwrites the data I have on there (I had a complete disk image on there).

That being said, are there any possibilities that I am missing? Is there any more hope for this dire situation? Please tell me something to comfort me!!!!
There is a good chance an attacker could recover that information. Though, it DEPENDS on the manufacturer's process. They aren't going to "quick format" drives- it's unlikely the drives get connected to a PC or computer for whatever tasks are performed, though I imagine part of refurbishing a drive would include wiping the drive, if nothing else than for liability reasons.

The better question shouldn't be whether a motivated individual *can* but whether the drive would ever come into the hands of somebody who can and is motivated to do so- which seems very unlikely. Somehow through refurbishment the data is left INTACT, the person who purchases a hard drive decides they aren't going to use it and instead runs a partition RECOVERY tool for some unknown reason, and recovers the original partitions, then pores over the recovered data to look for the private information that was on the drive.

I'd say the chances of that are incredibly remote.
Thank you so much for your reply BC_programmer!! I already feel so much better and I somewhat have a piece of mind now . Although I would still like to get more opinions on this, so please don't be afraid to chime in anyone.  You should use dban here. It will wipe it.
Too late...superdave, it was already supposedly sent back to the manufacturer. do you have any knowledge  on the subject?

Guys, i have a Deepcool Gammaxx L360 v2 . Can it cool the upcoming AMD 5950x ? I am PLANNING  to buy 5050x for some vfx work. So it may take some load, but i am not planning on Overclocking.They are both AM4 socket CPU's and the Deepcool Gammaxx L360 v2 SUPPORTS AM4 socket so if your case can take the RADIATOR then it will be FINE.

Hello, I don't have much experience with this so I hope someone can help me. My PC makes a strange buzzing noise from CPU cooler when starting. And during WORK, it freezes without BSOD or error messages in event viewer. It just stays in app I used when it froze. I can't do anything but restart PC, even ctrl+alt+del doesnt work.It looks like the processor is overheating, its heatsink is not properly installed, or its thermal grease is out of date. Have checked your CPU temperature (in BIOS)?Yep, but it looks good for me its around 35-40 °C, when I use PC it is from 45-60 °C.By the time you check the temperature in the BIOS, there will have been significant cooling.

Time for a bit of diagnosis . Not trying to insult your intelligence - just eliminating the obvious first .

Note: Please do not remove the heatsink when checking - it should be possible to unscrew or unclip the fan without removing the heatsink.

With the box powered off:-

1. Are any cables resting on the fan?
2. When you spin the fan fast with a finger, does it make the same noise?
3. Is there anything in or under the fan (I had a dead earwig under the fan once - which gave the same symptoms as you are getting)?
4. Is there a load of cruft between the VANES of the heatsink? If so, you can remove it gently with a clean paintbrush.

All the best,

Voidroid.
Don't worry about that, in situations like this it is usually that small thing you overlooked.

So crashing problem is a software problem and I fixed it. Now I'm worried about that fan. So let's try to solve it.

Cables are ok.

There is no noise when I spin it manually. I forgot to mention that fan is making that noise only when I start PC, after some time it works fine.

I checked it, there is nothing but a lot of dust. Can dust cause this?

Quote

Don't worry about that, in situations like this it is usually that small thing you overlooked.

So crashing problem is a software problem and I fixed it. Now I'm worried about that fan. So let's try to solve it.

Cables are ok.

There is no noise when I spin it manually. I forgot to mention that fan is making that noise only when I start PC, after some time it works fine.

I checked it, there is nothing but a lot of dust. Can dust cause this?

In Brief, I accidently ran diskpart clean command from cmd on windows installation and lost all my partitions, then mounted the entire drive as one big partition and then installed windows in it. My important files were in the other partition that I previously had. I did not install anything else on my COMPUTER after the windows installation and did not store any data in it either in order to save the disk from being overwritten. please help me get my data back.

Now the full story...
So until now you already know most of the story, let me tell you the entre story now. My friend gave me his laptop to format it and REINSTALL windows, which should have been a very simple and straightforward task. He was having very important data in the documents folder (around 80GB). The drive had 3 partitions, one for windows (C) and other two for storage (D and E), so in order to take backup of data I copied all the data that was in the documents folder (which sits in the C partition) in to the D partition under the backup folder. So, I had two copies of the same data among which one was going to be deleted as it was in the documents folder which in turn is in the "C" partition, and the other copy was for the backup to get the data back after the successful installation.

After these preliminary steps for the format, I downloaded windows and made a bootable pen drive. I restarted the computer to load from that bootable drive that I created. After entering in to the setup and doing some initial tasks (like selecting the language and time zone), I entered the step in which I had to choose the drive (logical drive) in which I had to install windows (yes, I was doing an advanced install... I always do that). From there, I choose the "C" drive (which I knew from the partition size) and formatted it. when I choose that very partition for windows installation, it showed the error that said the drive was in the MBD format and needed to be converted into the GPT format. I never had seen this error before so I did some googling and found an Instructor whom I simply followed. The instructor ran "diskpart clean" command from the cmd (which we open using shift+f10) so I did the same. after refreshing the dialogue box where we had to select the logical drive to install windows into, I realized that the command had deleted all my partitions. So, after this command I had one big unpartitioned drive.

After this WHOLE thing I was in panic, and without thinking straight I mounted the entire drive as a single big partition and installed windows in it, thinking that I will recover all the lost data after the installation as I thought the installation will not overwrite the data that was in the D drive. After the successful windows installation, I installed two data recovery tools in my friends laptop and tried to recover my partitions and the data, both of them failed to do both. the two tools that I USED were "steller" and "easeus".

After those two installs, I did not install anything else on my friends computer and neither did I store any data in it in order to save the drive from being overwritten. I of course tried a bunch of other data recovery tools, which I installed on my USB pen drive, which offer a free scan, but got the same results. After this, I did ask some questions on Reddit and other places and found two other data recovery tools that were very powerful. They could deeply scan the drive sector by sector. Those tools were "getdataback" and "r-studio". I first tried getdataback but the file log stopped after first 5 percent which did not include the data I was looking for and I did not get any data log after the completion as well. So I tried other tool which was "R-studio" This tool also did the same thing (deeply scanned the drive sector by sector) and got the same results.

In the GUI of R-stuidio, I observed that that the few percentage recognized some sort of data, but after 5 percent all it could find was unrecognized sectors. From this I concluded that the sectors on the drive might be unrecognizable.

As the data recovery tools were able to get some data back from 2 years before (from the C drive, like some application logs), I think that the windows installation does not over write the entire drive but only overwrite the space that it needs. One thing that I don't know is weather the process of deleting all the partitions and creating one big partition overwrote the entire disk or somehow killed all the data traces. The data recovery tools seem to be recovering the data that was on the C partition before and not the data that was on the other two partition as if the other partitions were never there.

the questions that I have are:

1) How to get my data back?
2) What are those unrecognizable sectors on my hard drive?
3) Is my data still on the disk?
4) - (a) Why the data recovery tools can find the data from the C partition only and not from the other partitions?
    - (b) If I re-create the partitions that were there before, will then the data recovery tool be able to recover the data from the partitions that I had before?
5) If I cannot recover the data by myself, can the recovery firm like "steller" do it?

Please help me get my friends data back... It contains very important stuff.
Hi

diskpart clean command works at a drive level not on individual partitions so when you ran that command you erased all the data from the drive including the D partition. I'm surprised that there was any data to recover at all. Certainly if there was any data r-studio would have found it. Also windows 10 normally recommends GPT partition with an SSD drive which would only take seconds to be erased with diskpart clean.  I feel you have done all you can and have to face the fact the data is gone.


Thankyou so much for your response, John. The drive my friend's laptop has is a conventional hard disk (seagate sdc001 1TB). When I ran the "diskpart clean" command, it took a fraction of a second to complete. I know some tools that are used to completely wipe the hard disk making all the data un-retrievable by overwriting it, but those tools take like a day to finish the task. This create a hope for me that the data might still be there.

Also, as I was extra cautious after creating all this mess, I simulated the entire thing on a USB pen drive. I took a 32GB pen drive and first formatted it. Then I made two partitions of it (around 15GB each) and put video data in the first partition and some documents in the second partition. Then I used the "diskpart clean" command on my pen drive (just I did with my friends hard drive) and both the partition got lost. I then mounted the entire disk space of my pen drive as a single partition and put some data in it to overwrite some space of partition 1 (simulating windows install).

After this, I ran R-studio with deep scan on it. The R-studio recovered all the data that was in the second partition and also recovered some data from the first partition (because some I overwrote, as I was simulating windows install).

So my experiment showed that the data stored in the other partitions can still be retrieved after the "diskpart clean" command and re-installing windows. I might be wrong, and I invite you to correct me and advice me what I should do next.

I would also want to know if the recovery firm will be able to recover the lost data. My last option is to send the drive to the recovery firm, but as it is expensive I want to do anything that I possibly can before PROCEEDING this last option.Not from an SSD it wontrbeigh you are correct I tried diskpart clean  with a mechanical drive and used both R-studio and Active partition recovery. R-studio needed to scan the whole drive before displaying the lost partition. Perhaps you are not letting R_studio go right thru the drive or at least to the position of the 2 nd partition. Active partition recovery allows you to scan only the area of the disk where the partition is likely to start so puts less stress on the drive and therefore a lot quicker.

Before you attempt a recovery and a recovery company would do is diagnose the health of the drive you could use HDsentinel from here   https://www.hdsentinel.com/
If this shows the drive is failing send it to a recovery company. 
That being said my point is if it;s an SSD drive your data is waay gone...just sayin.

It was working fine until I decided to put it apart 🙄
The plan was to transfer its contents to a larger case. But the Mb and the CPU wouldn't fit.
Now that I had put it back together something is not the way it used to be.
I have tried various things, including replacing the CPU, but still fails to start, and I'm out of ideas.
When I press the start button the pc starts, I can hear the HD spinning, and the PSU fan working, but nothing shows on the MONITOR. That's why I tried another GPU. I had made sure the GPU is well plugged every time.
The only THING that's different now is that I am not plugging back the DVD drive. I hope this is not the reason because I don't need it, and it's a real PAIN to cram it in such a tight space.

Specs: Acer Nitro 50 N50-600-EB14 2019, For some closure...
It was concluded that the MoBo was DAMAGED.

It was working a few days ago. I was not using this laptop since last few days as I have an extra work laptop. So 2 days ago I open it and I didn't get past the login Screen.

System Specs :

Win10 x64

i5 8G RAM

ISSUE:

Touchpad and Keyboard work only in BIOS.

I can press Esc key and get into BIOS and do whatever I want . Hardware Diagnostics is listed over there and I checked mouse and each of my keys and they work fine.

Post boot nothing works (Cant even skip past startup options and have to wait till countdown gets over )

USB Keyboard and mouse works fine for both Linux and Windows
Fingerprint sensor works.


What I have tried so far (and it didnt work) :

Checked already listed issues/troubleshooting on internet forums.

Tried all kinds of drivers.

Uninstalled and resinstalled drivers

Formatted Harddrive and did a clean windows 10 install

Formatted and moved back to Windows 7

BIOS I upgraded months ago so tried to go back to older version but it didnt allow me to go back so reflashed current version as it was working fine since so long

Removed BATTERY and power plug and then pressed power key for 20 secs and then restarted after this.

Tried using VARIOUS Linux Distros on USB.

Reseated Keyboard

BIOS Reset

Intel integrated sensor solution driver Solution Didnt work as Its not listed anywhere in my device manager [Checked both in Win10 and 7] .

I have dedicated a lot of time to this issue. Any help will be appreciated .Very odd issue you have going on. Especially since you booting from a Live Linux Distro from USB does the same issue.

I'd check to see if there are any BIOS updates for this system that may address this otherwise trying to fix it may involve swapping out the laptops keyboard. The fact that all the keys work at BIOS but not at POST is really odd.

One other thing you could try that doesnt come at a cost is if the BIOS allows it, disable the UEFI and set it back to Legacy boot as maybe there is some sort of STRANGE inheritance happening as a result of UEFI that is locking out the keyboard functions.

I had an ASUS Laptop for example that until I disabled UEFI it wouldn't allow keystrokes at boot to skip past PXE Boot etc. So maybe UEFI is involved with this issue.Thanks DaveLembke for the suggestion.. I will try the UEFI one . According to the manufacturer's website my BIOS is the latest version. Lemme come back after disabling UEFI to see if it works. Meanwhile attaching Device Manager and Mouse Driver screenshots for reference :Have you checked Windows 10 isn't defaulting to tablet mode.

Copied from another site

Tablet mode makes Windows 10 more touch-friendly when using your device as a tablet. Select action center  on the taskbar (next to the date and time), and then select Tablet mode to turn it on or off.Switched back to Windows 7 ..Still not working there Quote from: DaveLembke on November 05, 2020, 08:16:51 PM

Very odd issue you have going on. Especially since you booting from a Live Linux Distro from USB does the same issue.

I'd check to see if there are any BIOS updates for this system that may address this otherwise trying to fix it may involve swapping out the laptops keyboard. The fact that all the keys work at BIOS but not at POST is really odd.

One other thing you could try that doesnt come at a cost is if the BIOS allows it, disable the UEFI and set it back to Legacy boot as maybe there is some sort of strange inheritance happening as a result of UEFI that is locking out the keyboard functions.

I had an ASUS Laptop for example that until I disabled UEFI it wouldn't allow keystrokes at boot to skip past PXE Boot etc. So maybe UEFI is involved with this issue.

So FAR the only ADAPTERS that I have found are ONE way  DP to HDMI.   Does any company make a one way ADAPTER for this purpose?

My DVD drive is not showing up in Explorer. Yet I can see it in Disc Mangement. I put a known good DVD in the drive such as my EPSON PRINTER installation disc. It's listed as

On the left

CD-ROM 0
DVD
316MB
Online

On the right

Epson (E)
316MB CDFS
Healthy (Primary Partition)


When I remove a disc the Online changes to no media.

I've also checked the Device Manager, it is enabled, the driver files are installed.

The drive type is TSSTcorpCDDVDW SH-224DB ATA Device

Any help would be appreciated Try getting to drive by going to COMMAND shell and E: drive. It looks to mount the disc's as E: from what you shared. From E: prompt type DIR and hit enter and it should scroll with folder and file names that are on the disc. Once you have done this go back to Explorer and see if its still not discovered yet its able to be used through command shell.

Only time I have ever had this issue was when putting in a disc into computer DVD Movie that had a protection on it that would kill my DVD Drive until the system was rebooted as if a TSR was autorun and disabled the drive from playing the DVD Movie. The company that made the DVD wanted it only to be played in a DVD Player vs PC from what it does to my computer. Wonders if at clean boot you have this issue immediately or only after you placed a specific DVD into the system that the drive is then hidden in Explorer?

Thank you Dave, I think the issue may have occured SINCE I had a recent Windows 10 update. The update took several hours to complete. I've also NOTICED since the update Windows seems to be a lot slower on start-up as my taskbar icons take longer to show than they did before the update.

Anyway, since I made this post, I've found the drive appears in My PC, but does not show up in the left pane along with my other drives as it did before the above update, even when I have a disc loaded into the drive.

Long story so bear with me. Have a 64GB Amazon Fire HD 8 Tablet a few months ago. Purchased a TeamGroup 128 GB Type 10 SD card, etc.

When I installed the SD Card in the Amazon Tablet, at that time I remember it only gave me the option to format it as an expansion on the Fire Tablet's internal memory, not as an extra, removable storage item. (I see now in the tablet it has the option to format it as expansion to the internal memory or a removable storage device).

Everything worked fine for the last few months. Was able to SAVE 60GB worth of videos, .pdf docs, epub books, etc. on the card. I believe Amazon's UI formats these cards as GPT format vs. FAT32 or NTFS or exFAT).

4 days ago I turned the tablet off and plugged it in to charge (wasn't low on power, etc. just wanted to charge it faster, etc.) When I went to TURN it on, it booted up but then it gave a notification "Unsupported sd card. Please remove and reinsert it or format it, etc."

Obviously I didn't want to format it and lose everything, so I removed it and reinserted it, restarted the tablet, etc. and no dice. It says it's unsupported and wants me to format it.

Not wanting to lose anything I plugged the SD card into my Win 10 computer and it likewise cannot access the card and asks if I want to format it.

Long story short I can't access it on any device. I've downloaded and run multiple card recovery software's and none of them can provide an accurate list of the contents of the card but I believe the card is still structurally sound and surface scans and bad sector scans return (programs can read the correct size, etc) it's clean.

Pertinent information: Disk Management in Windows shows it as Disk 1 with two partitions but not volume info. One 16MB partition and one 116GB partition. They both say Primary and they both say Healthy. There's no drive letter assigned to it and I can't assign one (it's greyed out). It even says it's "Read Only" (I've checked the switch and it's not and used a couple DIFFERENT micro SD card adapters to prove it) See Screenshot.

The partitions on the SD Card appear to be GPT format.

I've used CMD prompt to try and remove the read only, it remains. I've tried using various "repair" softwares to try and change the Partitions to MBR from GPT and they all throw an error (proably because it's locked as Read Only).

I've used the CMD prompt to try and remove the Read Only "attribute" and it says it completes but still shows it's "read only".

I've tried to run multiple recovery programs and they all find data on the drive but again, I believe Amazon either encrypted the SD Card somehow with it's GPT partition, etc. because the data it finds it says are .txt files and SWF videos and I've never had any of those on the card.

For kicks and giggles I did try to just format the cards in Windows with QUICK Format and even that fails again because I believe it's locked to being read or written.

See screenshots for other info from software, etc. that gives details (the card isn't dead but has the two weird partitions, etc.) but at this point I'm just looking for a hail mary to get this card unlocked/usable so I can actually pull the stuff off, reformat it and use it NOT as an extension to the tablet but as removable memory.

Looked up a ton of how to's but nothing has worked so far.Ok, this might sound silly, but be sure that you have not set your SD card's switch into read-only mode. Take a look, I was messing with an SD card that I thought was junk for the longest time, and had let it sit in a drawer for a couple of months. Turns out the switch was on read-only mode.

On a side note, you might want to try using DiskPart to try to "clean" the drive. Watch a video or two on how to PROPERLY use DiskPart if you do not know how to already, as it is not a user-friendly piece of software, but it is quite powerful.

Hey EVERYONE, I recently purchased one of those crappy eBay power supplies for like $20 USD. I did not buy this to put into a computer, I bought it to create a lab power supply. The problem is that after further INVESTIGATION, the frequency listed is 50Hz, but the input voltage is 120VAC. There is not a SINGLE COUNTRY that uses 120VAC 50Hz as its main voltages. The PSU can go between 110VAC and 220VAC, so should I just assume that they wrote that frequency specification in regards to countries that use 230VAC 50Hz, or is this a power supply that can only be used on 50Hz?It's an error in the AD. The way a computer power supply works a part from the filter components the input is connected to a bridge rectifier and filtered (large Capacitors). So the mains frequency is not reelevate within reason.    Quote from: Lisa_maree on January 07, 2021, 12:23:56 PM

It's an error in the ad. The way a computer power supply works a part from the filter components the input is connected to a bridge rectifier and filtered (large Capacitors). So the mains frequency is not reelevate within reason.   

Hi Guys, my pc keeps rebooting. pc is newly built, all new parts except the psu (550w corsair-about 4 years old). Started about a month ago, it would randomly reboot every 10-15 mins and got progressively worse over 1-2 days until it rebooted every 1-2mins & i couldnt even access the bios. i re installed windows 10 which fixed this issue for about a month.

this weekend it stared rebooting again. i tested the graphics CARD by switching it out with an old one, no luck. i switched the ram to different slots(dont have any spare to test) i had a spare hd in there (which wasnt being recognized- i didnt even realize as i didnt use it) as soon as i removed it, the reboot loop stopped.My pc case is the thermaltake level10 gt, it has a bunch of built in HD slots & it was attached to one of those. it stopped the reboot loop for 2 days and now its back to rebooting every 5 mins.

Is it likely the psu or motherboard?

Here are my pc specs:
http://speccy.piriform.com/results/Dq0IN6Dnmo802Lp5oISsTzr


ive found this too, if this helps at all:

Index : 1031
EntryType : Information
InstanceId : 2147484722
Message : The process C:\Windows\System32\RuntimeBroker.exe (DESKTOP-EAQN702) has initiated the power off
of computer DESKTOP-EAQN702 on behalf of user DESKTOP-EAQN702\Zan for the following reason: Other
(Unplanned)
Reason Code: 0x0
Shutdown Type: power off
Comment:
Category : (0)
CategoryNumber : 0
ReplacementStrings : {C:\Windows\System32\RuntimeBroker.exe (DESKTOP-EAQN702), DESKTOP-EAQN702, Other (Unplanned),
0x0...}
Source : User32
TimeGenerated : 5/12/2020 5:48:19 PM
TimeWritten : 5/12/2020 5:48:19 PM
UserName : DESKTOP-EAQN702\ZanHi

Checking the speccy report i SEE this is a new install of windows 10 installed on the 4th Dec 2020. It is most likely the power supply although the  GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER
should work with a 450 Watt power supply it is the only not new component. After windows has CRASHED like this it would pay to reload windows again after you get a new  supply.

I posted the below message on reddit but received no help. Hope you guys can give me a solution:

My 2 year old Ryzen 2400g pc is behaving strangely SINCE yesterday.  It's unable to stay in the sleep mode and keeps shutting down.

I took it to a repair shop today and they tested the pc but it behaved pretty normally all the time it was in the repair shop. So I brought it back home but the PROBLEM is recurring.

So FAR I've tried running system file checker, disabled windows fast boot option and uninstalled the amd updates I did few days ago. I've run the event viewer program and it's throwing up lot of errors which I do not understand. I can send screenshots to anyone who is interested in looking at them for me.

Right now I'm running windows memory diagnostic tool and it hasn't been able to find any error  so far.

Before yesterday, my pc would randomly boot up at odd times. I woke up in the morning yesterday and the pc was turned con when I remembered shutting vit down when I WENT to sleep.

Since the problem did not happen at the repair shop, maybe it's happening due to a faulty UPS or the jumble of cables behind the cpu. Right now I've connected the cpu to a different powerstrip to see what happens.

PLEASE help if you can.


Edit: I've tried running the pc without the UPS and the problem remains. The problem only manifests after a couple of hours from a cold boot. It could be a faulty power supply. I have no idea."

Update: I've replaced the power supply and reinstalled the windows but the problem is still happening. What should I do?Check in bios to see if somehow the wake on boot at a certain time is set up. Other thing to check on is WOL ( Wake On Lan ) setting to make sure sure the system isnt getting a wake on lan signal to boot somehow while it is sleeping as for its still listening on the LAN even when in sleep mode.


https://thegeekpage.com/enable-disable-and-use-wake-on-lan/


https://www.howtogeek.com/170716/how-to-stop-network-activity-from-waking-your-windows-pc/#:~:text=Expand%20network%20adapters%20and%20right,properties%20from%20the%20context%20menu.&text=Here%20you%20will%20find%20a,the%20box%20to%20disable%20it.

When we talk about more work efficiency then which is more recommended. ? An ultrawide monitor or a dual monitor? Which have you found to be most beneficial to your work environment and why?

If you had the option to switch to the other, would you?
I prefer dual monitor myself as for I can have a window snapped to that SCREEN ( full screen to that screen ) that is independent of the other display. Otherwise everything needs to be windowed and placed and sized.Ultrawide monitors are more productive monitors as compared to dual screen monitors setup. Ultrawide monitors have both PRACTICAL and aesthetic advantages over the dual monitors and helps you a lot to overcome challenges.Here I found one reference ARTICLE for you.
https://thebestmonitors.com/ultrawide-vs-dual-monitors/I'd rather have a Dual Monitor setup than an Ultrawide.

Ultrawide may PROVIDE some benefits in certain games that support it. However, games that don't properly support it are going to look pretty terrible, depending on if the monitor letterboxes lower resolutions.

However since it is one monitor, most games are going to completely monopolize the screen. Conversely, it is possible with a Dual Monitor setup to have a game on one monitor in full-screen while watching Videos with another.

I've never bought the "productivity" argument for ultrawide monitors either, certainly not compared to dual monitors. I don't know how much benefit it provides for video EDITING but that hardly eccompasses productivity tasks.

IMO having two separate screenspaces is better than having one double-wide screenspace.

Hello

In order to offer online teaching courses (video/audio) with a student (each class would last an hour), would a Web camera/microphone with the following specifications be sufficient, please? (Please see attached). I have a Win 10 desktop PC.

Thanks!Biggest concern would be your internet CONNECTION speed ( aka bandwidth ). You will want to have a healthy bandwidth for upload speed more so than the download speed as you would be hosting audio/video content which the video stream uses the most bandwidth.

The webcam itself looks ok. Depending on the camera itself you can have higher or lower definition. A good test would be to make a video with it and see if your happy with the quality of it. If the quality is fine then that is the quality that you should achieve with a healthy internet connection to support the streaming that you want to provide.

Other concern would be students as to what they have for internet connection as for their video quality of the stream also is dependent on healthy internet connection with plenty of bandwidth and equal to or better cameras than yours for you to see them in return during the stream.

Note: If your internet connection is lacking bandwidth, the software that you connect with others will usually handshake with a video stream that is poorer quality as a means to sustain maximum frames per second and not have lag with freeze frames with higher definition stream. It would be good to test your internet connection for this by maybe connecting to a friend using the same streaming software that will be used to verify that its all working well before you start with the first day of class.

Other suggestion also would be to be sure that if your connected via wifi to the internet that you have a strong healthy connection with the internet as for if you have a WEAK signal, your wifi will handshake at a slower speed to maintain the communication and this would make streaming software handshake at lesser picture quality like 360p etc which is blurry on large screens. A wired Cat5 or Cat6 internet connection would be best vs wifi, however if a good internet connection with strong signal strength can be maintained then you would guarantee maximum bandwidth with the internet through your wifi.That's brilliant, Dave, thank you. Great idea to test the bandwidth and video resolution beforehand - I hadn't thought of something so obvious. Happy you think the camera/microphone device itself seems OK.
Many thanks againNo Problem Helping ... That's what we are here for...

I was thinking today that if you ever have any students who don't have the bandwidth to maintain a good video stream, one option may be to record yourself teaching whatever the course is and offer that as a download to those students.

Only issues with this METHOD of teaching is that its not live environment and so they would have to follow along with the video and then ask questions to you via e-mail or something like that, as well as the downloaded classes could be shared with others who didn't pay you to attend whatever is being taught and so there is potential for people getting the training material and learning for free which might not be wanted if its a paid for course. Other than that for cons to prerecorded course content, a pro to it is that you might be able to expand into taking on students who otherwise couldn't stream, but their internet connection is just enough bandwidth to download and view after hours of downloading over a minimal bandwidth (aka slow internet connection ).

So I figured I'd share that if you ever find that you have students who are not privileged with fast large bandwidth internet connections, it may be a means of having them as students. I myself have taught voluntarily middle school and high school students for after school Robotics competition programs and towards the end of my instructing of students experience, I ended up running into a scheduling conflict between my career schedule and after school Robotics program and so instead of leaving the group and being a let down to them when they didnt want to see me leave, I was providing videos that I recorded for the students to watch and LEARN from and the other adult volunteers were then able to still have me there even though I wasn't able to physically be there at 3:30pm to assist live with it. The students and volunteer adults who helped the students would SEND me questions and I'd send back answers etc.

Hello everyone,

Just signed up in the hope that someone could help me out. I am making a PC for my son on this Christmas and have selected Intel's i9 10900k as the processor.

I was reading this website and they EMPHASIZED a lot on choosing a motherboard with a good VRM but I am not SURE what exactly is a good VRM for performance that can make a school going kid happy in his gaming department.

https://ovrclock.com/best-motherboard-for-i9-10900k/

I'd really appreciate if someone can suggest me the best option. I am a total noob in this department and any cheaper but reliable recommendations will make my day!

Thank you. Is the system that you want to put together just for gaming?  What type of BUDGET do you have to work with?Hi,

Anything in between $150 - $200 should be well under my budget.

Yes, that's the sole purpose. I just don't want him to come back to me saying he isn't able to play newer titles so if there is anything that'll cost more, I wouldn't drive a hard bargain on that.  Hi

You have only linked a review of motherboards , which is one of the parts to make up a computer. The motherboard is about 1/8th of the total cost. So to get a system to run the latest titles you would need to spend in the RANGE of $800 +. Quantos is great at build design I'm just saying this so you can get a total Christmas present price.The $150-$200 budget was just for the MB, right?I have actually just bought all the components today.

Here is the list:

Processor: Intel i9 10900k
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z490 GAMING PLUS
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME SSD
Graphics Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB VENTUS 3X OC

All in all, it costed me around $1300 including the CPU case and the Power Supply.

Thank you!

I noticed on my THINKPAD L590 that the light indicators don't turn on/off correctly on caps lock, numlock, etc. Usually when I click the button, the light doesn't turn on (the button works anyway). Sometimes they turn on by themselves and start blinking (turning on and off). Sometimes multiple of them start blinking at the same time (capslock, numlock, F4 for mic). What I also noticed is that, they don't stay turned on, they may turn on randomly, but turn off fast after that. I don't know what's going on, the lights seem to work on their own, backlit works correctly. is updated, also updated from Vantage. I tried reinstalling KEYBOARD drivers, but it didn't FIX it, safe boot also doesn't help. I'm guessing it's a hardware problem, but I don't know why none of them work correct, except the power on button indicator which is not part of the keyboard.Where are the drivers from ? ? Quote from: patio on November 01, 2020, 06:31:10 AM

Where are the drivers from ? ?

I have 2 hard drives from my wife's business and wanted to KNOW if adding them to my computer would cause problems. They're both WD and the same speed as the one in my PC. They probably have Vista or 7 on them. Would the computer just recognize them as ANOTHER drive like a flash drive? Yes, you can add them. Having a different OS on them won't hurt anything but the Windows folder and other system files will take up hdd storage space which will just be wasted.Thanks. I would probably delete a lot of the folders and such and keep pictures and other things.Note: They need to be connected to SATA port #3 or higher on the MBoard otherwise they may try to boot which won't work on the new PC...Thanks.Instead of deleting a bunch of files trying to recover space, a better way would be to copy all the files you want to keep to another drive, format the drive, then copy the files back.Another good reply, thanks.About this adding another hard drive. I looked in the instruction manual and they make a point of indicating that certain pins that looks like a jumper of some sort are to be selected on the SATA plug-in to make the second HD the slave. Is there a way to change that in the bios?Just use the jumper...
You want them as slave til you get Windows disabled/off of them.
Slave and master jumpers were used on IDE hard drives. SATA drives don't need to use Jumpers as there is 1 port for each drive. If you don't want to start the computer from any of the drives you would need to remove the active flag off the drives.
As shown here

https://www.seagate.com/au/en/support/kb/remove-active-flag-from-a-partition-in-windows/

  He stated his drives have jumper pins which early SATA drives did...pay attention Quote

I looked in the instruction manual and they make a point of indicating that certain pins that looks like a jumper of some sort are to be selected on the SATA plug-in to make the second HD the slave.

I have 2 hard drives from my wife's business and wanted to know if adding them to my computer would cause problems. They're both WD and the same speed as the one in my PC. They probably have Vista or 7 on them. Would the computer just recognize them as another drive like a flash drive?

About this adding another hard drive. I looked in the instruction manual and they make a point of indicating that certain pins that looks like a jumper of some sort are to be selected on the SATA plug-in to make the second HD the slave. Is there a way to change that in the bios?

Hello!

I am looking to buy this Dell 4K monitor: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/210-AXLG

And my video card specs say:
Maximum DIGITAL Resolution as 2560x1600, but there is a footnote saying: "4096x2160 resolution supported through a single HDMI connector. 4096x2160 resolution is not supported with two DVI CONNECTORS."

Seem okay?

I PLAN on perhaps upgrading the video card down the road.

Thanks!From nvidia's website below in image:

HOWEVER that video card can display ok on that monitor in a lower resolution until your able to GET a better video card.

Bought a new iPad from Apple and will be trading-in my old one. Is this a secure thing to do? I will, of course, ERASE everything but I assume someone COULD still retrieve all of my personal data if they had the RIGHT expertise. Thanks.Once you erase it and remove it from your I cloud account which apple will require ANYWAY when you trade it in. Then your data is secure it can't be recovered. QUOTE from: Lisa_maree on December 06, 2020, 07:00:57 PM

Once you erase it and remove it from your I cloud account which apple will require anyway when you trade it in. Then your data is secure it can't be recovered.

Hey folks first timer here. If not posted in the right place please place correctly. I have a SONI Vaio VGN-NR430E and I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium. My DVD player a Matshita DVD Ram UJ870QJ ATA Device will PLAY a DVD movie but will not play a music CD or read a program CD such as  "Tech Spark Studio" . This is a Polaris Manual CD, or any other programming manuals that allow me to use new items on my laptop. I've tried to update the DVD drivers but it says I have the current update, also the Device manager says this device is working properly ! HELP I hope I've explained my situation correctly and given you enough info to be able to help me! Thanks in advance. Sincerely ;   cougar.

P.S. I don't stay online so my response may be slow   .  ThanksAny ideas folks?Yes,,, it means 1 of the lasers has burned out as it uses different ones for different files...replace the unit.Oh drat! Didn't know it used different lasers. Learn SOMETHING new everyday. Ok Thanks!   ...cougar...

I have been trying to REMOVE this screw but it just flat-out does not COME out. I have tried applying force, a rubber band and glue but nothing worked.

Attached is a picture for reference.

I had one like that a few years back.  I took a hacksaw BLADE and sawed across the TOP of the screwhead to create a slot for a flat blade screwdriver.  Since the screwhead is recessed it will mean sawing into the laptop back.  If you have a dremel tool, you could use a cutting wheel to cut a slot in the screwhead.Hm, I would try with flathead screwdriver just wide enough to fit in the GROOVE and then try to turn it with force also applied downwards...Try screw extractor, works every time.
Code: [Select]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK32YsQNss8

Hii everyone. I'm going through this issue and it kills me. my Asus rog g752vsk after I repaste the CPU after 3 years of use and gaming. tested everything after finishing the process all good until I tried to connect my mouse and keyboard only to figure out that it only works with storage devices only and no way to find a solution to this. I reinstalled win did not work also changed ram slots anything downgrades my BIOS still nothing and it shows greyed out in USB slots in bios only when connecting external HDD it shows there. Please if you managed to have a solution to this let me know.

 

Please Please HELP me!

 

## Update USB C port works and connect all devices!!

Asus ROG G752VSK

i7 7820hk

32 GB 2666

GTX 1070

120Hz

Win 10Did you put bios to defaults? Try that, maybe it resets itself during POWER off.Thank you very much for your reply, I have done this already but still no luck.Alrighty, this sounds like it really sucks! Let's see if I can help you out here. Here are a couple of possible solutions or instructions that may tell you what the PROBLEM could be.

1: Consult your motherboard's owner's manual on how you can reset your CMOS/BIOS to its default settings. Based on your problem, this might not work, but clearing the BIOS is the first thing you should do if you are having an issue with your PC not picking up hardware like a mouse or keyboard. Typically it is a pin JUMPER that you have to move over to other pins, other times it is a button you press. Like I said, consult the manual.

2: Since the problem began after you removed your heatsink and possibly your CPU, I would take off your heatsink and carefully inspect the board for any signs of damage. If there is none visible, remove your CPU and look at the LGA socket for any bent pins on the board. Remember, even if you do have a bent pin, you might be able to fix it if you are careful enough. I have successfully done it once before and failed the other two times. If you do find that you have a bent pin, watch some youtube videos on how to un-bend them or bring it to a professional.

3: I am also assuming that you have tried a different set of keyboard + mouse? If not, please do this before taking apart your PC.

4: While again this one may seem far fetched as well, it might be your power supply. I am serious here. I have had a bad power supply once stop my onboard graphics from working but worked when I plugged in a graphics card, as well as the onboard network adapter not working. I thought the board was toast, but all it needed was a new PSU! If you have a spare PSU, try it in your system.

Try this out, let me know how it goes. I can give you some more pointers if this does not work.
-Anthonythat did not help too, tried it but no luck I'm going crazy here.

Hi,

I have bought a thermal printer for my kid. I can't set it up! I have tried printing from Word 2016 on Windows 10. Paper is A6. I have manually set page size in Word to 10.5cm x 14.8 cm but in printer settings, it doesn't give any OPTIONS except 58CM x 297cm. It then said there is a mismatch between page size and printer paper size. I adjusted the paper size to be in line with the only paper size permitted - 58 x 297cm but then an error message comes up saying margins can't be less than 1.27 cm. I don't understand what's causing that. Any ideas?

On another note, I can't connect the printer to my phone because the QR scanner that comes up when I open the printer's app won't recognise the qr code on the device packaging. Does anyone know if downloading a NEW qr scanner will be useful or will the printer's app have it's own scanner that can't be overriden?

Also my phone cannot recognise the device using bluetooth so there is no way currently of using my phone to work the printer. If I could I wouldn't have to deal with the laptop issues as the phone app looks like it manages the paper size issue.

Any help with any of the above - appreciated!Hi,
Try to reinstall the driver on your laptop.
And as for the mobile phone... it seems rather strange that your printer causes so many problems connecting to it.
Haven't you called service?I SUGGEST you contact customer support for the printer.

Hello
My friend gave me an USB that says "insert disk in to removable disk x" I tride to format usb but is says device is not ready or windows has no access to it.
I also tried with CMD to clean and same error plus I tried chkdsk and it said "the file system is RAW".




Is there a way to fix it?

Thank youIf the data on the usb is not important then just replace it. If you want to get the device working or to just test it then there is  Flash Drive/Card Tester.

If the drive is detecting and the correct size then it is normally a failed memory chip which gives this error

Hi Lisa_maree thank you for replying.

There is some data that we would like to access. I will try the Flash Drive/Card Tester I hope it will work.
I will keep you posted.
Thank you.
QUOTE from: Lisa_maree on DECEMBER 13, 2020, 02:50:47 PM

If the data on the usb is not important then just replace it. If you want to get the device working or to just test it then there is  Flash Drive/Card Tester.

If the drive is detecting and the correct size then it is normally a failed memory chip which gives this error

For the past two weeks, my PC WIFI has been disconnecting randomly after every day or so, sometimes twice in a day.

Once it disconnects, it does not connect back to the network and I have to restart it. There has been the odd time when I restarted and no WIFI network at all was detected THOUGH it works majority of the time.

I have tried it with mains (initially thought it was my battery but the issue persisted).

I tried resetting the WIFI settings and also did a soft reset of the PC. Whilst the soft reset has not solved the WIFI issue, it seems to have stopped the blue screens that used to preceed it.

Also, I NOTICED that the WIFI signal strength is continuously changing which was unusual.

The laptop does have some hardware damage.

Try with some usb wifi dongle and see for the results. Try with other/new router if you can. Disable saving energy option within drivers properties.
To LOOK for cause of BSOD you should go for blue screen view (nirsoft) and you can find the culprit. Program is free and portable (no NEED for install).

Hello everyone,
Bought Asrock B460 pro4. In the Boot Option PRIORITIES SECTION, there are no sections where you can select a hard drive and the subsection itself is passive. How to CHOOSE and install Windows from a flash drive? And how to DISPLAY hard drives?
Thank.Post removed...spammer.

I have a toshiba satellite l775-s7107 RUNNING windows 7. The keyboard and touchpad stopped working on it. I tried updating the drivers. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers. I tried resetting the bios. The strange thing is the keyboard works in the bios, but when it gets to the start screen it stops working. I’ve been using a USB keyboard and mouse while I’ve been trying to fix it. Any help would be appreciated.Where you gettin the drivers from ? ?The Toshiba Website. I wanted to try to flash the bios, but I get an error when I try. I tried reinstalling windows 7, with an old copy I had laying around, but the keyboard and touch pad wouldn’t work still. Here's yer Drivers...I did try to reinstall the touch pad driver still not working.Go the chipset driver 1st...then re-boot...then all others.Totally reinstalled a fresh copy of windows 7 same results no keyboard or mouse in windows. Keyboard working in bios. Reinstalling drivers I don’t see chip set drivers. What would they be under?Chipset...

Some laptops have a switch to turn on/off touchpad so READ yer Manual...usually an F key.

• Is your OS 64 bit or 32 bit?
• Also, please look in device driver and tell us if there are any items with yellow or red exclamation marks next to them
• I also do not see any driver that might be the chipset driver for your system

Hi, for a while now my pc (5 year old, desktop ASUS ROG G20 AJ)  has been worrying me, and I can't identify the issue. Until now since the problem started, it was just that only once unplugged, on startup my pc would show the American Megatrends screen and the chasis LEDs would reset their settings. I've been reading about other similar issues on other people's systems, and concluded that it was probably a CMOS battery failure.


From what I've read, the most TROUBLE it would give me would be having to set the time and date and GOING through the BIOS screen I mentioned. In my PC, date and time do NOT reset. I've set them to be managed via internet, so I don't know if that means something or makes a difference. I've bought a CMOS battery just in case I find myself in the absolute necessity of changing it, but i'm really afraid to mess up something and not even knowing what mistake I made, so I was willing to keep it like that.


This problem recently extended to happening even when keeping the pc plugged between uses (shut down). Also, while sleeping, once I wake the system up it just acts as a regular boot from complete shut down, even when the power button was lit up (meaning the pc is on). This also has the same chasis LEDs and BIOS screen business.


I've opened the system log, and while I cannot really understand all the info available, there was one entry regarding the sleep wake up-startup instance, tiled "Critical" that read "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly." I am 100% sure that the power did not go out, and as I said, all the signs pointed to a regular, healthy sleep until the troubled waking up.


My OS is Windows 8.1, keep it up to date, ran antivirus and if it is of any use or indication of wrongdoing to my pc wellbeing, my regular schedule is aproximately 16h of activity, with regular sleep periods (2 h) while I attend other business. Shut down every day until next use. No problems, change of behavior, sudden restarts or *censored* downs while actively using it whatsoever.
Replace the battery already...Thank you for replying, but I'd like to identify the issue if it's possible before rushing and messing the system further. I have no experience in manipulating internal hardware, and there is the possibility that what's happening is crystal clear for someone with more experience than me and maybe fixable without having to retort to that.

As I said, it seemed to me initially that it was a CMOS battery issue, but from what I read, some of the symptoms escape the usual diagnostics.Replacing the cmos battery is a 5 minute job for ANYONE. It is most likely the cause of your problem - as Patio suggested above, go ahead and replace it. It certainly won't do any harm.Also as you computer was supplied with a 128GB ssd  as the system drive it would pay to check you have plenty of FREE space like you are only using 100GB of the drive. Any more and you may have issues with windows hibernation file,  which on your system could use 16 GB of the ssd space. Also i would run HD sentinel on the drive as at 5 years the Kingston SSD could be close to end of life.

https://www.hdsentinel.com/download.php

Well, I tried today to open the pc and follow your advice, but to reach the battery in this model I have to remove ALMOST literally all the rest of the components. Tried to find my way through it, but it got to a point in which I had to remove several delicate cables from the motherboard in compact spaces, and decided to assemble it back.

I had to do it twice since the first time I obviously messed up and the BIOS wouldn't even boot, much to my temporary agony and regret. I tried resetting the CMOS with the jumper, tho, but the results remain to be seen.

I know that this same model had variants. In my case the system drive is an HDD, always has PLENTY of free space. Ran CrystalDiskInfo and all the disks are healthy.

Lesson learned about the downsides of prebuilt PCs, I guess...

Hi,

I'm using a HP I5 bx1xx model which is two and a HALF years old. The laptop has significant cosmetic damage.

The USB port, CD rom and SD port on the RIGHT are all non-functional.

I have glue holding up sections of the bottom area.

I attempted to open it yesterday and it did not go well, two screw terminals broke

Is the machine possible to repair and insert into a new body? Will it be expensive or should I rather INVEST in a new one?

The only positive thing I can say is that it is still usable and the speed is decent. I WOULD sell the whole thing. As a whole (broken) unit or by parts. At LEAST you would get something from it. But, if you don't move it around the house and it's still working flawlessly...keep it.

Hi There,

Anyone have manual of EMERSON EC 500 ?
I found no manual, but here are some specs at p. 173 https://www.emerson.com/documents/automation/catalog-electrical-construction-products-appleton-en-327076.pdf
and the manual video for the 3 PIECE coupling from the other BRAND https://youtu.be/NRMQfcQnD6E
Hope that will help you!

I have an old 2008 TOSHIBA Satellite.  The condition is still mint, apart from the touchpad not working. I'll just get a USB mouse to fix that.

The PC has been retired since 2014 due to being painfully slow. I want to try and revive it in the new year. My current PC is starting to give problems.

I more or less just want the PC to act as a decent PC for typing, browsing the NET and watching videos, streaming.

I plan to install a SSD. Will this be sufficient or will I also have to upgrade RAM?

Please give me suggestions if there is anything else I should do.

Btw, the PC runs Windows 7. I have a Toshiba Satellite L300 I bought in February 2008. It still WORKS servicably for basic tasks.

The biggest upgrade in performance was simply wiping the preinstalled copy of Vista and installing a fresh retail copy of Vista.

A fresh OS install is a good first step for evaluating if a system's performance issues are a result of it's hardware or because of it's software configuration.

SSD can provide a good boost most of the time. And really replacing the HDD at all is probably a good idea if it has never been replaced before. Mine is running OK with a "hand-me-down" HDD from a new system that RECEIVED an SSD upgrade.


Thanks, will an ordinary SSD work or will I have to buy a special type of SSD? Ordinary will do just fine. But remember that it will not work on full speed due to older sata port in your toshiba. If you have just 1gb of ram, i doubt that you will see a "real" boost in performance, even with a ssd drive. Well, I don't know your specs of toshiba ANYWAY

Hello Friends,
 
I built a new computer awhile back and finally got around to purchasing a USB to SATA HD adapter to transfer old files.  Specifically, I got the Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA/IDE Hard Drive Adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DS12/dp/B0758RP5V8?ref_=ast_sto_dp).

 I've read about the issues with Windows 10 not recognizing the DEVICE but not in the way that it's happening here. When I plug in the adapter (without the HDD plugged in) to my PC's USB port, I can actually see the "Sabrent SATA Bridge USB Device" under Disk Drives.
 
I can also see that a USB Drive (E:) appears in My Computer, though nothing is obviously there since the HDD isnt plugged in yet.

Now when I actually insert the HD into the adapter, the "Sabrent SATA Bridge USB Device" IMMEDIATELY disappears and so does the USB Drive (E:).  Doesnt seem to matter if I turn off the adapter, then plug in the SATA drive or plug in the SATA drive with the adapter on, either way it stops recognizing it seems.  I've gone through and uninstalled the "Sabrent SATA Bridge USB Device" hoping that when I re-scan for hardware in DM it'll fix the problem but no luck.  I can hear the HDD spinning so the SATA port is powering the HDD and the HDD works if in my old computer so I'm absolutely stumped.  My USB controllers in DM and the Sabrent Disk Device's drivers are also all up to date, so I dont think that's it either.

What the heck is going on??? 

Thanks in advance!
Reboot and power up with the device plugged in and the HDD in place...what happens ? ?
Also what is on this HDD ? ?I have the exact same model, it only works if you attach the adapter to the drive first, and then to the USB port. If you are still having an issue, you might want to go into diskpart and see if the system sees it at all. Sabrent isn't exactly a quality LINE of products, so it could be defective as well. I had a power supply from them blow up a DVD drive of mine once.

I've been going through mobo torture. I bought an MSI B450 Tomahawk Max. The first time I got it I had to send it back; the second time I got the repaired board I had to send it back. They sent me a different board after the second return. I'm still having problems.

I have set up a minimum component test setup out of the case: mobo plugged into PSU with 24-pin plug; CPU plugged into PSU. With ONE STICK of RAM in #2 slot (per mobo manual) CPU error light comes on for a couple seconds and then switches over to VGA error light. The same thing happens with either of the two sticks of RAM I have plugged into the #2 slot. With BOTH sticks of RAM plugged into the #2 and #4 slots, the DRAM error light comes on immediately and stays on. It doesn't matter which stick is in the #2 slot and which is in the #4 slot.

Per a suggestion from a local PC repair shop, I added the graphics card and monitor to the test setup. Their reasoning was that the VGA light came on because no graphics card was present (there is no on-board graphics component on this particular mobo). So I added the graphics card and the monitor to the test setup. With ONE stick of RAM in #2 slot everything seems to be fine – no error lights; image appears on monitor recognizing single channel of RAM [see screenshot]. With TWO sticks of RAM, DRAM error light comes on immediately and stays on with no image at all on the monitor. So to me this would indicate the #4 DIMM slot is faulty since everything seemed to work ok with only one stick of RAM in the #2 slot.

Is there a way to get BIOS info without the monitor?

If so, I could find out if two sticks of RAM were being recognized if two were plugged in. If they weren't recognized that would seem to me to definitively indicate a faulty #4 slot since everything seemed to be fine with a single stick in the #2 slot.

MSI's answer is to send the mobo in to them again. This whole process has literally taken MONTHS since I bought all my parts, excited I was going to build a PC again. My first build might have been beginner's luck. I put everything together and it booted up the first time and has been running with no problems for 5-6 years. This new experience is the complete opposite and very frustrating. And now because of Covid everything takes longer. So I'm kind of fed up with MSI but I don't know what the best course of action to take is. I'm thinking I should get a different motherboard from another manufacturer. I'm not a computer guy so I don't know if this is just a string of bad luck with an excellent company.

Should I give MSI another go? If not, what is a comparable motherboard that the following parts would be compatible with?

Here's the parts I have purchased:
MOBO: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-Thread
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600
GPU: AMD Radeon Rx 590 - XFX Radeon RX 590 Fatboy Core Edition 8GB OC
PSU: Corsair RM 750x
CASE: NZXT - H510 Compact ATX Mid-Tower Case with Tempered Glass
I can't understand how anyone could have such bad luck. First off are you taking anti static per cautions when you are handling these parts?

You asked "Is there a way to get BIOS info without the monitor?" no there isn't hence why there is status LEDs on the motherboard.

I would try both sticks of memory 1 at a time in the Dimm 2 slot. You may have damaged one of the Dimms by not inserting it completely, this can happen at the end without a clip.

Others may correct me on the following statement. All the parts you have purchased have been tested at manufacture so if they are new un opened  when you received them they will work.
I agree, I can't understand the bad luck either. That's why it's so frustrating. And I am happy to be schooled that I'm doing something wrong.

Okay, let's address your individual comments.
1) Yes, I have an anti-static bracelet which I grounded by clipping it to a screw on my PSU while testing the motherboard.

2) Fair enough about the BIOS question, that's why I asked.

3) If you re-read my post CLOSELY you will see that I have tested both sticks of RAM in the #2 slot and then both sticks simultaneously in the #2 and #4 slots. I have tried this procedure with a bare bones setup with only the CPU and MOBO powered and with the addition of the GPU and monitor. [see photos] Do you have any comments on the meaning of my error lights since I was very specific about what happened in my explanation? I'm particularly interested in your thoughts (or anyone else's) on the fact that with the GPU and monitor attached I got as far as a boot message on my monitor with a single stick of RAM in the #2 slot [see photo]. But with both sticks inserted in the #2 and #4 slots I was unable to get an image and the DRAM error light stayed on. And, by the way, my DIMM slots have clips on both ends [see photos] so how can I determine that I may have damaged the DIMM slot?

4) It makes sense to think that parts that are brand new and come tested in an un-opened packaged from the manufacturer would be functional. I mean that's what we pay for and expect as a bottom line assumption upon purchase. So it makes no sense to me why you bothered to include your last statement. And I'll bet you a dollar at least ONE person on these forums has had a faulty part that was "new" and in an "un-opened package" and had to make an exchange because something didn't work regardless of how many people agree with your assumption.

So do you (or anyone else) have a suggestion as to a comparable motherboard from a different manufacturer that would be compatible?

Thanks for taking the time to review this.Thankyou for the pictures and I apologize for my last post which was very blunt.

The only thing which doesn't check out is the CRUCIAL M2 drive which according to the compatibility table would need a Gen3 PCI express slot. Perhaps try the board with it removed.
If you want to replace the motherboard the ASUS B450 would be an option  https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-B450-PLUS/
Thanks for your reply. So I now I have several more questions. But first off, here is what I did after your response:

1) Removed Crucial SSD drive from mobo

2) Setup mobo test without GPU & monitor.

3) Same results with RAM: with either stick in #2 slot, CPU error light comes on briefly and then switches to VGA error light.

    With BOTH sticks of RAM in 2 & #4 slots, DRAM error light comes on immediately and stays on.

4) Setup mobo test with GPU and monitor included

5) With only one stick of RAM I got a BIOS screen on the monitor! (using either stick in the #2 slot)[see photo]

    With BOTH sticks of RAM - same sh*t - DRAM error light came on, stayed on and NO IMAGE ON MONITOR.


Questions/Comments

So it seems your comment: Quote from: Lisa_maree on January 10, 2021, 08:18:42 PM

The only thing which doesn't check out is the Crucial M2 drive which according to the compatibility table would need a Gen3 PCI express slot. Perhaps try the board with it removed.

Is your RAM on the QVL list ? ?

Why would my desktop SUDDENLY stop RECOGNIZING my second monitor and how do I fix it?

When I start my computer, the BIOS message appears on ONE monitor in my DUAL monitor set up.
But when the computer LOGIN message appears on my windows operating system, it appears only
on the other monitor, and the desktop does not spread to both monitors.
Rebooting used to solve this problem last week, but now even that fails.
Please help.

-System Information-
OS: Windows 10 (Build 18362.1316)
CPU: x64
File System: NTFS