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I have a 4.8 GB DVD-R disc and formatted it to act as a USB flash drive. I TRANSFERRED about 3.4 GB of pictures on it and let my computer close the session before ejecting it; I inserted it again to make it was on the CD. However, when I inserted it back into the CD drive a few hours later just to make sure it really IS there, it says I have 745 MB left, but upon double-clicking it I SEE nothing in it, only a message saying "Drag files to this folder to add them to the disc." Is there something wrong? I HAPPENED to have deleted the pictures from my HDD as well (STILL RECOVERING some of them though). Quote from: a.yar0 on June 20, 2012, 10:58:10 PM

I have a 4.8 GB DVD-R disc and formatted it to act as a USB flash drive.

I have a wireless CARD that I was given.  I assume it should light up an be seen in DEVICE manager as a ! yellow.  I know but, its good to be safe an make sure before I throw to the part boxWhy not test the card properly to see if it's good or not ? ?What do you MEAN?  I put it in a machine to see if that would do any of that. Quote from: Ryuk on June 19, 2012, 05:59:48 AM

What do you mean?  I put it in a machine to see if that would do any of that.

the machine boots fine.  I have the drivers for it some where 

If it's not showing in the Device Manager, it's probably dead.
Dead devices will not always prevent POST.

i have Acer laptop ,  DVD  Does not work , only works in Safe Mode
my anti-virus is free avast and i disable all shield - same result -When you say it doesn't work, please explain EXACTLY what happens when you insert a cd or dvd. Also, does Explorer see the drive?Sorry for being late to respond. Because of the circumstances in my country 
When i insert a cd or dvd. it Begins to spin rapidly and do not SHOW icon . Then stop the drive spinning. It seems that there is no cd Again, does Explorer see the drive? And what happens if you insert a BOOTABLE disc and then reboot (make sure the cd drive is the first device in the bios boot order)? does Explorer see the drive?
no ....
what happens if you insert a BOOTABLE disc and then reboot
it work well ...( Example: When i insert a  Norton Ghost cd . and reboot  it works)

With thanks ..Forum And AllanHere are some things to TRY:

1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...

2. Delete Upper & Lower Filters
 http://support.microsoft.com/kb/982116
Restart computer.
or...

3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...

4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary CHANNEL)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Before starting the previous procedures. For clarification: video or audio CD or DVD  work well
Problem only in  software and games DVD  Providing COMPLETE and ACCURATE information in your first post would be helpful.

So it's only one or two discs that don't work? In that case, try them on a different system and see if they work there. If they do, I'm not sure what to tell you except maybe your cd drive is on the way out.Actually I'm sorry
i try them ( many cd & dvd ) in different system : they work well

come someone here tell me what the *censored* is overclock? what is/are the advantages and disadvantages of it. and to perform it? i have my internet cafe business here with 42client computers. Thank You!Plenty of INFORMATION can be found by simply doing an Internet search on a phrase such as what is overclocking.  Here's a good article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overclocking

In your internet cafe business here with 42client computers, I WOULD quickly drop the idea overclocking and not give it a SECOND thought.  Leave the overclocking to computer ENTHUSIASTS who are willing to take a bit of a gamble (chance of DAMAGING components) with their own home computer. thanks to the information soybean

I have a WD 1.5 terabyte hard drive.  Recently, when I plug it in, I hear the machinations inside rev up, follwed by some unusual clicking sounds, and then it winds down and turns off.  Is there any hope I can have this fixed?  How would I do that?If it's still under warranty, WD will replace it.The clicking sounds are the key - the drive is shot.I just checkd: warranty expired last NOVEMBER 

By the sounds of your response, it seems my HD is shot. How can I retrieve my stuff on it?You can try slaving it
http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/Thanks for the link. I'll have to investigate.
I haven't had the HD that long.  Why would it go belly up like that?  And this is the backup HD for my photos and such. I'm confused. Didn't WD drives have a 5 year warranty until very recently (around 2011?) There weren't any 1.5 TB drives for sale 6 years ago, were there? Hard drives are mechanical devices with moving parts. They wear out. You don't have to do anything to them for that to happen. Statistically most will last maybe 7 to 10 years, but some will last much less and some much more. That's why backups are important. Salmon is correct...
Up til this year WD's had 5 year warranties...they've scaled it back to 3 now.Maybe they were looking at the warranty from the retailer themselves? (or the "time for EXCHANGES" guff) Those are usually ridiculously short terms.

I just went to the WD website:  http://support.wdc.com/warranty/index_end.asp?lang=en

I clicked on Warranty Check and then typed in the serial number.  They said it was expired.  I don't remember when I bought it.  I guess times flies (3 years) when you're having fun.

This is the first time I had an external HD stop working.  Leaves me a bit shaky about backing up important files on it but then, what would be the alternative besides burning a gazillion DVD's? Quote from: Allan on June 23, 2012, 01:07:45 PM

You can try slaving it
http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/

Since my HD starts up, clicks (I just read about the click of death) and then turns off, it doesn't look like I would be able to slave it.  I've read that trying to turn it on again with physical problems can make it worse.

Anyone know a reputable and reasonable data recovery service?

I've actually been pretty successful doing data recovery off of drives that exhibit these symptoms...
The key is to have the Master PC completely set up and ready to start copying data...
That means having it booted...having all unneccessary apps turned off...and having plenty of free space on any partition/drive you are copying to all set to go before even attempting to connect the faulty HDD...

P.S. TeraCopy will boost your copy speeds by about a 1/3...
No guarantees...but this is how i've always prepared.

Hi my PC is running windows 7 home premium with a nvidia gtx470 video card and a 22 inch acer monitor (if anymore info is required i will GLADLY supply if it helps with the problem but have just listed these as it is a screen resolution problem) recently my goddaughter was watching cartoons on youtube and she pressed something not sure what as she's only 3 and just kept pointing at things when i asked her what she'd pressed.Being a 22 inch screen windows suggests resolution of 1680x1050 but when i set this it shifts the screen about 2 inches too the left i am unable to move it using the monitors osd as its as if the right hand edge of the monitor has physically moved 2 inches too the right aswell (hope that makes sense).I have uninstalled my graphics card reinstalled drivers etc tried a different vga lead and dvi adaptor but no luck so i set my resolution to 1600x1200 and that worked fine after the screen auto configured apart from when i first turn it on it is still in 1680x1050 resolution so all the boot data and other info including the windows 7 logo is shifted 2 inches to the left until it boots up and then the monitor auto configs to the 1600x1200 settings and its fine.

Hope i haven't waffled on too much and hope someone can help cause I'm stumped if you need anything clearing up that i haven't made much sense about please ask and thanks in advance for your suggestions/helpYou need to read the manual.
The monitor will auto config if you let it.
You may have to tun the monitor off and on to re-start the auto-coning. Or else go into the monitor settings. I don't mean Windows 7 settings. The monitors own hardware things.By monitors hardware settings do you mean the menu and ARROW buttons on the monitor itself if so have already tried that and made no difference tonight i tried uninstalling the monitor along with its driver so now its just a generic plug and play monitor still will not let me set my resolution to 1680x1050 without the screen shifting have also read the manual and gives no guidance at all Quote

when i first turn it on it is still in 1680x1050 resolution so all the boot data and other info including the windows 7 logo is shifted 2 inches to the left until it boots up and then the monitor auto configs to the 1600x1200 settings and its fine.

I recently purchased a new graphics card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130625
I just installed it and it's working ABSOLUTELY PERFECTLY. I uninstalled my AMD drivers and installed the drivers for this one. However, I've discovered that when I log into & play WoW or Diablo III (Or anything else for that matter), the card starts to make A LOT of noise. It's extremely loud and cannot be ignored. It sounds like it's coming from the fan, but I have no idea. The sound goes down over time after I've closed the GAME. The graphics card was also EXTREMELY hot after I opened up my computer and checked it. What's going on with it?

Let me also add that I have purchased a brand new power supply with it as well: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152028I'd return it under warranty...somethings not right...I assume you have connected the 6-pin power connector to the graphics card?
EVGA card REQUIREMENTS:
Minimum of a 400 Watt power supply.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt CURRENT rating of 24 Amps.)

Dear readers,

I hava an quite old desktop standing in my room, this evening when i tried turning it on it said: beeeeep-beep-beep-beep and didn't show any screen.
On this site i found out that it might have something to do with my video-card or chipset.

Fortunately i have my desktop setup with remote desktop, so i tried to log in (not being ABLE to let my desktop show anything on the screen) and it worked.
The computer seems to work fine, except for the fact that there is no video output.

Then i physically OPENED my desktop and reïnstalled most of the hardware parts, when i realised that my chipset fan wasn't turning as it should, because the heatsink beneath it turned out to be tremendously hot.

All in all, i don't really know wat the problem is. Might it just be the fan or should i just throw away my WHOLE motherboard.
In a few days i will be able to test my video card in another PC, but i don't think the problem resides in that part.

Thanks in advance,

Leon

PS.
My computer (in stripped form) consists of:
Asus A8N-SLI motherboard
AMD64 3800+
Club3d Video Card (7900 GT or something like that)

And before i forget: my computer is set to overclock by 10% and was working fine until this evening...1st thing you should do is REVERT back to the default BIOS settings and test that...
2nd thing to try is replace the CMOS battery...Part # CR2032 available anywhere...remove all power when replacing it...
3rd thing would be to replace the CPU fan using new thermal paste...

Thermal Paste Guide...

Then DLoad and install a fresh copy of the chipset drivers and install themHi patio,

I tried to reset the BIOS using the RTCReset jumper, i do not know if it worked for i can't get any feedback from the screen.
But anyway, the desktop didn't make any improvements. Still the heatsink is getting red hot and the fan is not turning and no video output is made.

Thanks anyway. Any other suggestions?

Leon

PS. The CPU is working properly, since i am able to remote desktop to the desktop!My suggestions are in the above Post... Quote from: leons on June 27, 2012, 01:19:13 PM

...my chipset fan wasn't turning as it should, because the heatsink beneath it turned out to be tremendously hot.
...My computer (in stripped form) consists of:
Asus A8N-SLI motherboard
AMD64 3800+
Club3d Video Card (7900 GT or something like that)
...

Hi everyone,

About 3 weeks ago I took my laptop (Dell Inspiron 6400, OS Windows Vista) to be fixed. It had a problem that I thought would be related to the screen but finally it was the motherboard.
The man who fixed it had another laptop just like mine but almost new. He changed a couple of things, then inserted my old laptop's cards (RAM and so) and gave it to me.

I had forgotten my windows password, so he recommended me to use one of those programs to recover it, I did it and now I'm the admin of my laptop.
Everything SEEMED to be fine until I plugged a usb flash card in one of the ports. The computer recognises the device, as well as memory cards or external hard disks, but it denies me the access to any of them. I can however use my printer, even my joystick using the same port(s).

I tried changing the permissions, it will not allow me. Everytime I plug any flash card that works in every other computer and I know it's not empty, it tells me it's empty. It SHOWS even the name of the flash card but denies any access to it.
I uninstalled and installed again the controllers, even in safe mode, with the same result. I ran the antimalware and the antivirus programs in safe mode as well, nothing changed.

A couple of strange things that I NOTICED and may be useful: my old laptop used to have only a C:\ drive with windows and so on and a D:\ drive with the recovery files.
Now it's got 2 more drives. One is 2GB big and totally empty (I can use it with no problem) and the other has no name and I can only see it when I run the drives' manager. I cannot access it or do anything with it but opening the "help" file. It's 86 MB big.

The second strange thing is that when I was RUNNING the device manager and I marked "show hidden devices", I could see in the devices the icon of "fs_rec" appearing in grey. Now every time I open the device manager it does not show it as a hidden device at all. It just doesn't appear there.
I looked for the file and it's located where it's supposed to be (windows/system32/drivers) but does not appear on the list anymore.

I'd really appreciate any help you could give me, my knowledge is poor and I have tried my best with everything I've found so far. Have I done anything wrong?

Thank you very much in advance

Im having problem with my hard drive. Last week i tried to back up my files on a dvd disc and upon learning that my disc is already FULL, replace it with a BLANK disc, but it didnt WENT thru, it just hang up so cancelled the back up process. When i checked my drive, i was shocked becs my hard drive losses 5 gig of its memory. I THOUGHT it would go to the dvd disk not on my hard drive. And now i downloaded Download Accelarato Plus and a couple of pictures and to my suprise my memory drive losses almost 2 gig. What the *censored* happening with my drive ? Please help..

will SAMSUNG RAM pc2-5300s-555-12-e3 WORK where samsung ram pc2-5300u-555-12-e3 CAME out ofhttp://www.crucial.com/

I'm struggling with finding a new card. I have a Asus P5B motherboard, 400w power supply with only 4 pin connector and my LCD screen takes a  VGA cable. I can not PLUG a new card into my power supply so I'm limited. I can SPEND up to $150 tops and I do like to GAME. Can you folks pick me some cards?

  Would this card fit on my motherboard, I'm concerned with the dual slots http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gt-430-review/2The GT 430 just isn't a gaming card: would make a good HTPC card with just enough power to cope with video postprocessing. It's simply horrible, with 96 cores and 4 ROPs... and I don't understand why they strapped 1 GB of slow DDR3 on an extremely narrow 128-bit bus to it.... probably nothing more than a marketing gimmick. We're looking at lower than 60 FPS on mainstream resolutions such as 1366x768.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/sapphire_hd6670_ultimate_hd6750_hd6770/6.htm
I would recommend the HD 6770 for an under $150 card that would be supported adequately by a 400W power supply. Even with this card, we are looking at just 60FPS at 1680x1050. 1080p gaming will be viable if you choose to turn all details down to LOW. It consumes merely 241 W on load with an i7 920/Asus P6T Deluxe. If you can find a HD 5770 for cheaper that would be great, as the 6770 and 5770 use the exact same graphics core (Juniper XT).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150560 $119.99
I was looking at the HD 6850/GTX 460 at exactly $150 which have far better price/performance and can handle postprocessing in games without too much of a performance hit but you would have to upgrade your power supply to the recommended 500W with at least two PCIe power connectors.thanks for that. could you tell me if this card would work for me? http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/NVIDIA_Series/ENGT440DI1GD5/  does it need a additional 6 pin connector for power?, Am I compatible all the way around? I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible. It would work for you, it doesn't require PCIe power pins at all and draws everything from the PCIe slot, and the recommended PSU wattage is 300W.
http://www.overclockers.com/sapphire-hd-6570-review/ 
Why the GT 440 when you can get the HD 6570 with superior texture caching and a far better fillrate... same price and power draw, too...
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/AMD-Radeon-HD-6570-512-MB-Video-Card-Review/1271/6for some reason I can only find this http://www.racunari.net/detalji/index.php?kompo=0922013394&k=09 its DDR3 rather than DDR5. is this still better than the GT440? I'm limited to only who will ship to or in Serbia. thanks again.and is this card I gave a link to in my last post compatible with my system? Sorry if I'm being redundant, just want to be certain, thanks for your time.with DDR3 at most you'd see a decrease in 2, maybe 3 FPS, these are low-end cards that aren't highly dependent on memory speed. Think of it as giving a cheap, low-end Volkswagen Jetta a HIGHWAY or a one way street to drive on. (DDR5 vs DDR3). You won't really see a performance increase on the highway, because the car's speed is the limit. But when you give a jet plane a large runway or a small strip to take off on, of course it will be able to reach higher speeds on the large runway.

You're all set    It will be compatible with your computer!Thank you very much! )))

The screen on my laptop has been broken for awhile now and I've been ABLE to keep using it by connecting it to my TV with an hdmi cable. Recently I updated the display drivers on it and now I can't get it to connect with my TV or computer monitor. fn+f4 isn't working. When i unplug and replug in the cable on either end the TV flashes to display from the laptop than goes back to no signal.
The laptop is an hp pavilion DV6 with windows 7. I don't REMEMBER the other specs and can't pull them up because I can't see anything.
The TV is a westinghouse and there is also a phillips in my house that I get the same results from.
Any HELP would be greatly appreciated.Connect to VGA INSTEAD of HDMI.  When you updated the drivers, it probably switched it over.

Hello,

I have been having some problems with my keyboard. It is an old Hp multimedia keyboard model: 5189URF.

My problem is: whenever I play games I notice that when I try to use the shift key while I'm already HOLDING down other keys, the game's shift function does not activate and my imput is locked to the key I was pressing previously. However, when I PRESS shift before something, I can then sprint/dodge/etc. It's a really big pain in the *censored* double tapping w, or pressing shift before something else.

Is there any way to modify the keyboard to make shift activate normally?

P.S. I can press up to 6 keys on this keyboard at a time so it's not an issue with number of keys held. (I wouldn't even be having this problem if I didn't spill water on my other keyboard, I FEEL like such a dope.)New keyboards are very cheap. In fact, if you use a keyboard to play games, you ought to use a second keyboard.

On eBay you can get a normal keyboard from a major company for under $15. Even with free shipping. So there is no excuse for abusing your keyboard. Get a spare keyboard and use it for games.

Don't buy wireless
Don't buy fancy.
Just a plain keyboard.Thanks for replying,

I just looked for a logitech cheap wired keyboard, and I FOUND the K120. Does this keyboard ring a bell, and if it does, is it any good in your opinion?Go ahead an buy it.
Logitech makes good stuff.
Don't pay more the $22 US.
(price may be higher in EU)
Quote from: Geek-9pm on June 30, 2012, 05:53:48 AM

Don't pay more the $22 US.
(price may be higher in EU)

Ok, so here is my problem, hope that someone can solve it quickly. First, the specs:
It's a PC
Operating System: freezes on both Windows 7 and Ubuntu (any version) //it freezes on the BIOS as well, I'll explain later...
Motherboard: Asus Maximus Formula II - Special Edition, FSB 1333 MHz, Intel x38
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6850, 3.00 GHz
RAM: 2 x Kingston 2GB 667
Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce 8800 GT 512MB
HDD: (I don't know the type but it's 500GB)
Sound Card: Supreme FX II
PSU: Codegen 450W

And now the problem and what I've done so far...
The computer freezes randomly. When I browse, watch a movie, program, do simple actions etc. The freezes are random. Also, if there is sound in the background before the freeze (music, audio), the last sound that was heard continues to repeat. The sound stutters, it loops like one millisecond of the last sound heard. I get no BSOD and no error message whatsoever. Moreover, and this is the most weird thing to me, when I press the restart button (it requires a hard restart) the computer does not restart immediately but continues with the frozen screen and looping sound for about 5-10 seconds. Then, the computer shuts down completely, and after 5-10 seconds it powers on by itself.      . I hope someone has had an experience with this kind of problem.
Furthermore, the computer does not only freeze when using an operating system. It freezes during the BIOS as well sometimes, requiring hard restart and restarts the same way as mentioned above.

So, here are the things I have tried and the problem continued:
- Reset the CMOS
- RAN Memtest 86+: no errors in the first 4 hours, 12 errors in one stick after 4 hours (I will explain this later)
- Reconnected power cables
No Luck, nothing worked.

About the memtest: Memtest found errors in one stick after 4 hours of testing, but the problem persisted even without that stick. I have tested the other stick for 4 hours and it had no errors. Also, Memtest Freezes!!!. The time will freeze, the test will stop progressing and the only thing changing is the blinking red plus in the top left corner. Everything else is frozen. This requires a restart.

One thing I should mention. About 4 months ago, there was a blackout in my street, and my PSU 'exploded'. I don't remember the brand but I know that it was a 500W PSU. The tech from the PC store installed a new Codegen 450W PSU. The problems started about 3-4 weeks after that. I tried to solve the freezing problem on my own for almost 4 months but I couldn't do it, so I gave my PC to the tech support guys. After a week of testing they couldn't figure out the problem (they said they needed more time), but I had to take it back because I have some projects to do until the beginning of June. I told the tech guys that I think it is a PSU issue, but they told me that there is no way this could be PSU related.

The freezes are completely random. For example, the system can be stable for a whole week (without a single freeze), and the next day... I can't even reach the login screen because of the freezings in the BIOS.

So, what are your thoughts?
And thank you in advance for taking your time to figure out my problem




Possibly the damage from the power surge didn't stop at the PSU. You could have some motherboard/CPU/chipset damage. The fact that you get freezes in the BIOS is suggestive.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 11, 2012, 12:58:32 PM

Possibly the damage from the power surge didn't stop at the PSU. You could have some motherboard/CPU/chipset damage. The fact that you get freezes in the BIOS is suggestive.

Good evening fellow taringueros.

My problem is that my sister netbook battery meter mark will not advance 77% more load for more to be left CONNECTED the AC, just as it does not mark the 100% does not change the LED orange to blue obviously.

Please ask me to collaborate to SEE that solution I can offer my sister first time since I run into a little problem in some of these family PC.

Sincerely,
In addition, I found two stores to buy a laptop battery,
1. http://www.bateriabaratos.com/acer-aspire-one-532h-series.html
2. http://www.pcbateria.es/acer-aspire-one-532.html
3. http://www.elecachat.fr/acer-aspire-one-532h-series.html

I say that one of the best battery
Welcome to CH.

All three look like good COMPANIES. But so MANY firms nowadays offer batteries.

In my opinion, you do not need  buy a new battery just because it doers not reach 100% charge. Even 77% charge is useful.  If the laptop is working good, just wait until you really need a new battery.

I have a new Lenovo coming that has 500gb 5400rpm HDD, folks are putting a 7200rpm replacement drive in and getting
a nice bump in performance. Original drive has the partitions setup with a designated recovery,reinstall one. How do I move everything over to faster one and be safe. Should I seek advice from Lenovo or is it a straightforward process. I KNOW enough to really screw up here so i need advice. Thanks ....edThe laptop arrives today-"I'm a kid in a candy store!!"
[lenovo IdeaPad Z575 (12992PU) Notebook AMD A-Series A6-3420M(1.5GHz) 15.6" 6GB Memory DDR3 1333 500GB HDD 5400rpm DVD±R/RW AMD Radeon HD 6650M]
  above is the title of the machine as WRITTEN by Newegg, it has 116 reviews with 4 eggs and after reading all of them I understand that people install new HDD right away. How does one do it WITHOUT issues like the machine not seeing the drive its supposed to run the reinstall partition, etc?

 I know my best move is to call Lenovo and ask them and I will if I do this down the road but please speculate with me here OK..feel free I'm not going to do it unless its something Lenovo says is not problematic. I guess before taking original out somehow the data can be transferred?? I just want to get an idea of what folks do when swapping HARD drives?? Is it hard to do?? I'm curious and want to learn about it from you folks.

How to switch my tablet's game screen  to the computer's screen             
 
Do you mean playing your android game on your computer? Or MERELY outputting your tablet screen to the computer screen and then playing it on the computer?
http://digg.com/news/gaming/tutorial_stream_android_screen_to_pc_mac_linux_pc http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=557717 Do note that it would PROBABLY be too slow for smooth gaming..

If you are LOOKING to play android games on your PC, you could try http://www.bluestacks.com it's a fully-fledged (even with Google services support!) Android emulator which works on most any modern PC, with graphics acceleration too! Too BAD it's a closed source application, but from what we know it uses native Windows libraries to do so instead of emulating hardware to RUN the Android kernel.

I bought a coolermaster 4-pin case fan but somehow my motherboard does not have a plug area for it. Can someone TELL me what are the other options to get the fan working? I have looked up eBay for 4-pin to molex and 4-pin to 3-pin CONVERTER but didn't FIND any.help please.You can plug 4 pin case FANS into 3 pin slots on your motherboard, the 4th pin is merely used for PWM fan control.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=4+pin+fan+to+molex 
Hmm? There are MANY such converters on eBay....

Good EVENING,

I have an external hard drive from Western Digital and 2 DIFFERENT computers: a Mac and a PC. Whenever I plug my HDD into my Mac, I cannot add/move/remove files; it only works when it is connected to the PC. I think this is because my HDD is formatted in NTFS, like my PC and that Mac uses a different kind of formatting.

I was wondering if there was an easy way for me to transfer file from my Mac to my HDD. I am currently using a 16GB USB key so it is very consuming whenever I want to put stuff on my HDD (I usually transfer about 600GB at a time).

Thank you!
Not SURE what you want to accomplish here...
The MAC PC would need an app that will read Windows files and vice versa...

Why not just get another external ? ?

I have had an Acer ASPIRE 1830T-3425 LAPTOP for nearly 2 years.  I recently lost the battery charger / power cord that came with it when purchased.  Since then, I have been using a universal charger that came with multiple adapter HEADS. 

The PAST few times I've used the laptop while plugged in, it seems to get extremely hot.  Then, it shuts down suddenly in the middle of a video or other usage. 

I was wondering about a few things: (1) Do you think that this universal-type charger is causing the overheating?  (2) Is it common for a laptop to simply shutdown when it reaches a certain point of overheating?  (3) Aside from the charger (if it is the problem), is there anything else I can do about the problem?I would not trust any universal charger especially for laptops. More Information.

Hey all , I have an ASUS LAPTOP ( K42JC ) and I wanted to update the BIOS to ''BIOS 216'' and what I've in my laptop is ''BIOS 208''. Then I downloaded the update from asus.com. After that, I updated it using an external hard drive. When the update finished, I noticed that the laptops fan is working fast and hard and when the windows SIGN shows , the laptop reboot again. Then, I tried again and again and it reached the DESKTOP then reboot. I used the safe mood and it worked well . Furthermore, I went I saw a LIST of updates (209-212-214-215-216) and now I've ''BIOS 216'' in my BIOS so I tried to change it into ''BIOS 215'' and I did . Then, the (2 seconds to shutdown) appeared so it did shutdown.. But then its not working at all. I mean really at all . not even one light . The laptop is new, PLEASE TELL ME IF THERE IS ANYWAY TO FIX IT 216 should have FIXED the fan problem.  However, it appears the flash to 215 has failed; you probably have to sent it back to Asus for warranty repair.
http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=K42Jc&p=3&s=248

Hello

What is a data disk (PLEASE see screenshot) used for, please and how does it differ from my C drive?

Thanks.

High1

[year+ OLD attachment deleted by admin]It's just what you (or someone ELSE) NAMED that drive. You can name it anything you like. C: Drive is your system partition (it's where Windows is installed) and whoever named D: drive "Data" intended for you (or whomever) to keep data files there.Can I save any files there, Allan? Images, movies, Word docs, etc?

High1Sure - you can put ANY files on ANY drive - it's simply a second partition on your hard drive. If the name "data" bothers you, just delete the name in EXPLORER and leave it simply as D:Many thanks for that, Allan. You have been most helpful.

High1Sure, no problem.

Not exactly. It does turn on... Just not always.

Details -

Intel E7500 CPU
Intel DG35EC Mbd
XFX Nvidia 9400 GT graphics
2x HD's(1 tb + 500 gbs)
Windows XP

This is how it starts...
1. I try to turn it on. It doesn't. This goes on for about 10 minutes, in which I turn the plug on and off a few times and pushing the power button. Keep trying.
2. I open up the cabinet, pull out the CMOS jumper and Battery. Re-position the jumper. Check for the MBd's LED for power. Check connections, any loose cables.
3. Once it feels like it.. It turns on, but won't do anything. Just powers up. The hard-disk have powered-up (I can hear them humming) bu it doesn't boot. No monitor signal EITHER.
4. I repeat Step 3 and plug out my Hard drives and DVD drive...and try to power on. If I m lucky, it will power on and then I'll have to set things up and again. And then try starting it this time again...With HD's and hope it boots which, after a few 'non-booting' power ups and tries, it does.

So basically...There's like a 15-20 foreplay before it starts up. In which, I have to check things, WATCH it power up without Boot and eventually..Power up normally.

I have CHANGED the CMOS battery. But tonight, it showed up an error of CMOS Battery checksum error when it booted. I hit the reset button and NEXT time it booted fine. Any idea why its being moody like this? Been happening for about 2-3 weeks now.Disconnect everything from the motherboard, except PSU, graphics card, monitor, & keyboard.  See if it will POST.Tried that first thing computer Commando_Commando.

--------------------------------

Update...

I was wrong. It wasn't my fiddling that was turning the computer on...

I have googled this and most people say it's a PSU issue. But Im gonna get some more view before I jump to buying a new one.

What happens is...the Computer doesn't 'turn on' on pressing the 'Power On' button. After the press, it waits for about 10-15 minutes and then spontaneously starts to turn on... I says 'starts to' because it doesn't start booting. I can hear the Hard disks humming but the red LED's for hard disk read don't light as they do when computer starts loading the OS. Then in 2-3 more minutes it boots. The boot itself is not delayed at all. After this initial delay...the computer works flawlessly.

Power Button Press >> Delay of 10-15 minutes >> Spontaneous Power Up >> But No Boot (Only green LED for Power) >> 2-3 mins >> Spontaneously begins Booting. (red LED's for HD read and booting) Quote from: LykanthricAura on July 08, 2012, 03:09:32 PM

...I have changed the CMOS battery. But tonight, it showed up an error of CMOS Battery checksum error when it booted. I hit the reset button and next time it booted fine...

...Power Button Press >> Delay of 10-15 minutes >> Spontaneous Power Up >> But No Boot (Only green LED for Power) >> 2-3 mins >> Spontaneously begins Booting. (red LED's for HD read and booting)

Can someone recommend a good, certainly above average card I can run in my Hybird or Crossover slot ?  I can't break the bank on it (preferably under $200) but I want to make sure I maximize the card I do get.

Thanks,
DaveHonestly, I wouldn't even attempt to bother with Hybrid Crossfire on an obsolete board; the HD 3300 in the 790GX chipset is *really* old

About equal to a GeForce 210/HD 4350 today. The EFFECTS of microstutter will be exaggerated due to alternate frame rendering because your onboard GPU is incredibly inferior to a discrete GPU.
http://www.pcgameshardware.com/aid,631668/Video-proof-Micro-stuttering-may-destroy-the-performance-gains-from-current-multi-GPU-technologies/Practice/
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/page-245454_15_0.html
Hybrid Crossfire is also disabled for higher-end GPUs because implementing alternate frame rendering between cards of such a large performance gap would actually be detrimental to perfomance. It is more for low end cards like the HD 3450/HD 3470, which are already 4 years old. No you cannot Hybrid Crossfire that HD 3300 with any HD 5XXX/6XXX series cards.


Since your budget is $200, I would strongly recommend the HD 6850 for a discrete GPU.
1) Pretty power efficient (229W with a Lynnfield i7 on full load! ) compared to other graphics cards of comparable performance. You'll NEED a PSU with two PCIe power connectors though. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/312879-33-minimum-rail-required-radeon-hd6850 12-20 A on the 12V rail will suffice, it's that efficient.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2010/10/22/ati-radeon-hd-6850-review/9
2) Top price performance (has been top for more than 4 months already....)
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon+HD+6850
It will run everything on mid settings at 1080p with 2xAA, no question.
http://www.guru3d.com/article/radeon-hd-6850-6870-review/20
$149.99 on newegg.That stinks, I didn't think my board was that old

Here are the details on what I have:

Mobo: ECS A790GXM-AD3 AMD 790GX Socket AM3
CPU: AMD PHENOM II X4 965 Black Edition AM3
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W Modular High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandybridge Core i3 i5 i7 and AMD Phenom

Does that change your RECOMMENDATIONS for what I should do ?

Thanks again for the help !http://www.hardocp.com/article/2008/11/12/ocz_700w_modxstream_pro_power_supply/8 The power supply is still acceptable for a gaming system, more ripple than acceptable and questionable build quality, but in the future I would stay away from ECS boards, they are known for a high failure rate, most notably bad capacitors, strange BIOS updates, and OVERHEATING northbridges.

700W is more than adequate for the HD 6850, and with dual 12V rails at 18A each on your PSU you're all set to go!   Would make a solid mid-high end gaming system.Thanks for all the help !

Okay, so i am PLANING to buy a Nvidia Geforce GTX 550 Ti 1GB but im not sure if my motherboard has a PCI-E x16 graphic slot (yeah im kinda still new at this stuff) so here is a picture of the motherboard



Here are the rest of my PC specs:

Operating system: WINDOWS 7 32-bit
RAM                      : 2.1GB
Processor             : Intel Core 2 Duo E7500 2.93GHz (Wolfdale)
Memory Type        : DDR2 2048 mbytes
Power Supply        : FPS 500w

If im not MISTAKEN i have a LENOVO m58e  computer

so is my pc compatible?What do the Lenovo specs say for your model?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express

Various PCI slots. From top to bottom:

    PCI Express ×4
    PCI Express ×16
    PCI Express ×1
    PCI Express ×16
    Conventional PCI (32-bit)
Your motherboard physically has the PCI-e 16x slot, however card/cooler height will be your influential factor given that this is not a normal board layout. as long as the card does not require 2 I/O shield slots then you will be fine.

Example of dual slot


Single slot.

Kurtiskain
what do you mean by 2 I/O slots ? you mean like the first picture you posted?


 ok so I just checked, here are the system requirements for the video card


SYSTEM REQUIREMENT:

-PCI Express or PCI Express 2.0-compliant motherboard with             (Not sure)
dual width x16 graphics slot

- one 6 pin PCi Express supplementary power connector                    (Check)           

-Minimum 450W power supply
intel PEntium 4, AMD Athlon XP class processor or higher                    (Check)

- 200MB available hard disk space                                                        (Check)

-2GB system memory                                                                            (Check)

-Microsoft windows 7,xp, vista operating                                              (Check)
system(32 or 64 bit)

-DVD ROM Drive                                                                                     (Check)

Ok, i'm searching for a video card that's good for gaming. thinking of buying the diablo 3. also, playing a kixeye flash game called battle pirate (for info go to kixeye.com).

anyway, i can't seem to decide which video card to buy. I'm thinking 1gb-2gb.

So far, I've bought the following:

AMD FX-8150
Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3
16gb (2 sticks) G skill ripjaws x series
blue-ray drive
Cooler Master V6 GT CPU cooler
mid-sized tower

as far as budget is concern, thinking around the +/- $100 area but under $200 for sure.

any ideas? and why? link to the video card from newegg or whatever site is much appreciated. Thank you.
The graphics cards with the best price/performance are around the $150 mark, such as the GTX 460/550Ti/HD 6850.
Also, are you going to use Linux? AMD has open-source drivers, which are lax in features compared to nVidia, which uses a proprietary driver blob. Basically, with AMD on Linux you still have issues with DESKTOP managers like Gnome 3 and horrible OpenGL performance (games like Minecraft use OpenGL). On the other hand, if you're looking to do parallel tasks like creating hashes and ray tracing, AMD may be a better option on Windows than nVidia because there is less distinction between its Radeon consumer line and its professional line, where nVidia really cripples the number of shaders in its GeForce line.

I would strongly recommend the HD 6850 for a discrete GPU at $150 +/-
1) Pretty power efficient (229W with a Lynnfield i7 on full load!  ) compared to other graphics cards of comparable performance. You'll need a PSU with two PCIe power connectors though. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/312879-33-minimum-rail-required-radeon-hd6850 12-20 A on the 12V rail will suffice, it's that efficient.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2010/10/22/ati-radeon-hd-6850-review/9
2) Top price performance (has been top for more than 4 months already....)
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon+HD+6850
It will run everything on mid settings at 1080p with 2xAA, no question.
http://www.guru3d.com/article/radeon-hd-6850-6870-review/20
$149.99 for the Sapphire version on Newegg.

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/sapphire_hd6670_ultimate_hd6750_hd6770/6.htm
I would recommend the HD 6770 for a card around $109, which outperforms the GTS 450 at the same price range. However, with this card, we are looking at just 60FPS at mid-high on most games at 1680x1050. 1080p gaming will be viable if you choose to TURN all details down to LOW. It consumes 241 W on load with an i7 920/Asus P6T Deluxe, so most any power supply should be adequate. If you can find a HD 5770 for cheaper that would be great, as the 6770 and 5770 use the exact same graphics core (Juniper XT).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150540 HD 6770 XFX ($119.99)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125353 HD 6850 Gigabyte ($149.99)thank you....i actually bought the HD 6870

I have a friends Seagate  Barracuda 7200.11 500GB. it was in his HP Pavilion Elite m9750a. Running Vista Home Premium. In the PC it would not boot past the initial splash screen. None of the "F" options were OPERATIONAL. I have removed the HDD and placed it in a "DOCK". Still windows [XP this time] will not recognize the drive, neither will UBUNTU .... I booted UBUNTU from a CD. Does anyone have a suggestion for me? I do hear the discs inside spin... Can anyone have a guess at the cost of data retrieval? I have considered that changing the logic board may help... Any advice or assistance would be appreciatedHi

Changing the logic board will make the drive unrecoverable. it is likely the drive is stuck in Busy a very common problem with some Seagate 500gb drives. if this is one of them and your feel that you can do this PROCEDURE it may get the drive working again. If you do get the drive accessible then update the firmware as soon as possible.

The instructions are here http://atola.com/products/insight/manual/seagate-7200.11.html

the firmware is here http://knowledge.seagate.com/articles/en_US/FAQ/207951en

If it is one of the effected drives you need to apply the fix exactly as described give yourself 30 to 45 seconds between each step have someone time it for you.

Doing this yourself could cause data loss 

Lisa
Thanks Lisa .. I think that this may be beyond my skill set, also I don't have the equipment to connect to SERIAL port.... (what is that called?) Is the problem so common that a professional "TECHO" would be familiar with this technique? Quote from: Lisa_maree on July 06, 2012, 03:30:29 AM

Hi

Changing the logic board will make the drive unrecoverable. it is likely the drive is stuck in Busy a very common problem with some Seagate 500gb drives. if this is one of them and your feel that you can do this procedure it may get the drive working again. If you do get the drive accessible then update the firmware as soon as possible.

The instructions are here http://atola.com/products/insight/manual/seagate-7200.11.html

the firmware is here http://knowledge.seagate.com/articles/en_US/FAQ/207951en

If it is one of the effected drives you need to apply the fix exactly as described give yourself 30 to 45 seconds between each step have someone time it for you.

Doing this yourself could cause data loss 

Lisa

I have a really old computer (some dodgy P4-3ghz with an 'Advanced' brand motherboard) running dinosaur XP. Lately I've been having a sound problem.

The problem is everytime I play MUSIC files or video files (even youtube), after I pause it the computer runs really slow (kinda choppy like). It lags when I PAUSE it, not when I play it. When it starts to lag, the only way to make it run smoothly again is if I press the 'play' button. When it lags, I'd check everything from the task manager like the resources that are being used etc. The computer uses up 100% load when this happens (which only drops down after I press the play button again).

Also, prior to this event, the onboard sound (Realtek ALC-661) always pops up a balloon showing that a device has been plugged in (when I haven't even plugged anything in YET!). I've read on some forums about this but that isn't my case. I'm assuming this error has to do with Realtek.

I've done every possible thing such as re-installing the sound drivers, disabling the sound and enabling it again, closed all running processes one at a time, but could not find any feasible solution. Maybe the sound board is dying out from heating or SOMETHING?

I'd appreciate any help from anybody. I STILL use the computer for experiments and programming tho, not for games or anything fancy. Thanx!Sorry I forgot to mention. My old computer's specs are:

Asrock P4-945 chipset
P4-3ghz
1gb ram
onboard video (gma 945)
450watt psu
80gb hdd

Now I also know it's not because of low disk space because I still have like 20 gigs left.

Any help is much appreciated! Thanx!Yaaay!! I've finally solved it myself! It was DUE to the bus audio controller which got overwritten by a Russian based codec

Laptops have a switch that engages when you close the lid. You can set this to shut down the computer, go into hibernation, etc. Find this switch and make sure it's not stuck in the engage position. If it is, the computer will appear to be starting up normally, but before it completes the process it will switch to shutting down, going into hibernation, etc. I know what you're talking about but I haven't seen a laptop with a switch LIKE that in a loooong time. Nowadays, it is pretty much built into the monitor.
However, it's good advice if you had this.  I've had this MACHINE a loooong time!

What do you mean by 'built into the monitor?'Hard to explain. Imagine your laptop without the switch but it still does the same thing when you close the lid. 
hi there
can u log into safe MODE and then u can go to control panel--> power options-->try to find the LINK says what happens on "when close the lid" and put that to sleep not shutdown.
or u can go into bios while starting up, and then SEE the sleep mode should not be on s3, if it is put it on s1.
hope u'll find luk in this.
cheers
vik Quote from: vikrant singh on July 04, 2012, 07:51:49 PM

hi there
can u log into safe mode and then u can go to control panel--> power options-->try to find the link says what happens on "when close the lid" and put that to sleep not shutdown.
or u can go into bios while starting up, and then see the sleep mode should not be on s3, if it is put it on s1.
hope u'll find luk in this.
cheers
vik

I turn pc on , the HP screen shows up ,then next a black screen with grey WRITTING asking me to indicate which of the two o/s SYSTEMS I choose .( both are xp professional) then I click on either one and back up comes the hp screen and then the black screen with grey writting again. It just keeps repeating this over and over again. I tried clicking on F8 like is says I can on the bottom of the HP screen, and trying the various options , but nothing helps..
 The only clue I have is that I often shut the pc off and hook it to my flatscreen TV to veiw MOVIES. Thats when it started acting up.. I had just swiched over to the TV and turned the pc on  and noticed it doing this on the TV.. I FIGURED it was something wrong with the tv settings so went back to my monitor and found it doing the same thing..
Any help will be apprciated .
Thanks , Neilfixed it by playing around , a bit RISKY but it was that or reinstall wqindows and loose it all.

encrypting my flash drive with Bit Locker File Encryption on a friend's laptop but had to pause it and remove the flash drive.  When I connected the flash drive to my own laptop (which does not have Bit Locker installed on it), I was asked to resume encryption process, which I did.  Due to the flash drive still being accessible during encryption, I deleted some file on it. The encryption process still went on after DELETING the files. But I later got a red pop-up saying  ERROR: FILE NOT FOUND  The encryption process then ended immediately.  When I REMOVED the flash drive and inserted it again it wasn't showing in My Computer. Also there was no sound as to indicate the presence of a new usb hardware.  I want to know if the flash drive has been permanently damaged , and if not how can I access the flash drive on my laptop again.?

I have not TESTED the flash drive on another computer.
I have not tested another flash drive on my laptop.
Flash Drive is 32GB SANDISK CRUZER SWITCH.SANDISK CRUZER SWITCH is often sold with a lifetime warranty.
Follow the instructions. It you can not get it to work again, contact the manufacturer.
www.sandisk.com
You never mentioned how it was encrypted...
Also you may have accidently moved the tiny switch on that UNIT that locks the drive from access...OP mentions Bitlocker
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BitLocker_Drive_Encryption
It is NOT on all Windows versions.
From the above article the encryption is a form of AES.
You can also do AES from the free 7-ZIP program.
www.7-zip.org/

IMHO most users SHROUD avid using BitLocker unless they are are sure of what they are doing. For most of us,  7-ZIP can provide enough security for personal and small business use. And 7-ZIP is widely available, free, and is easy to use.

Recently the power supply on my computer fried. We switched it out with another from one of our older computers and it works... Not completely though. When we turn it on Windows loading screen doesn't show. It's quite frustrating to me and my dad and we're miles away from those we usually go to for help. Can anyone please tell me how to fix this?
 
HI

Are you able to check that the hard drive is spinning you can do this by listening to drive. If not check the hard drive has a power cable direct from the power supply not from a tap off like for a fan or another drive.   

You don't say what you are seeing on the screen if anything at all

Also some DETAIL on the computer and power supply would help as well

Also what do you think caused the power supply to fail ?

Thanks
  When the computer is on the monitor stays black. Yes, the monitor is on.

The hard drive is spinning.

The new power supply is an Allied
Model: AL-A300ATXREV:B
Maximum wattage is 300 watts.

The original power supply was from Tiger Pro, we've been using it for the past 10 years.
Model: LC-B350ATX
Maximum wattage is 350 watts.

We've had the newer power supply for about 4 years but haven't USED it until now.

As for the tower, the mother board is from ASUS along with 3 HDD cables. There are 2 Western Digital hard drives, one using a ASUS cable, my dad removed the second, the cable is a Sata.


The power supply probably failed from over use. We're a family of six, with all of US having to use one computer.


I thank you for any and all advice.Hi

I'm sorry but the original power supply when it failed could have done quite a lot of damage.

Also as the computer is 10 years old, I'm assuming as the original power supply is, there is LIKELY to be other problems with the computer.

I appreciate there is no one handy to fully diagnose the computer, in this case before you spend a lot on parts I would recommend having someone diagnose how much of it is damaged so you can make a better decision on what to do next.

If you have a digital camera and could post some pictures of the motherboard I could see if there was any visual problems.

A wild guess but it has caught me out before.
(If it is an older P4)
Then make sure the 4 pin black and yellow connector is securely plugged into the board, and reseat any RAM that is in the machine.
Also try the machine with only one stick of RAM.

I just checked both supplies online and I cannot tell if the newer one has the extra p4 connector or not.
The connector looks like this

It may not be in the same location as that board has it.

Hello friends I have a:
HP Pavilion Slimline s5310f Desktop PC
AMD Athlon II x2 250 Processor 3.0 GHz
4 Gigs of Ram & 640 Gb Hard drive
I have a power supply of 220W & A Motherboard: M2N68-LA (Narra6)

Anyway I am looking in to buying CIV V But my graphics card is outdated. I WANT to BUY the XFX - Radeon HD 6570 1GB DDR3 PCI Express Graphics Card. BUt I don't know if my system will support it any help? I have Windows 7 by the way. Either of those choices may need to be what's known as a low frofile card...depending on how MUCH space there is...
You will have to do some measuring after looking up the card specs.

P>S> You will need a new PSU as well.Ahh I SEE don't have the money OH well, Thanks anyway! =)

Hello everyone.  On my current computer I have an older AMD Athlon X2 64 Dual 4200+ with a water cooling kit.  Now I want to upgrade to a NEW CPU and mobo and was wondering if I could use the same water cooling kit.  The CPU I want to get is a AMD FX-4100 Processor Quad Core and the mobo is ASUS M5A97 AMD 9 Series AM3+ Motherboard.  I won't lose any sleep if I can't.  I'm just wondering If i'd be able to recycle the cooling kit.  Thanks for any and all info.  I WOULD try checcking the coller UNITS specs at the manuf. site.

As in 880G + 5450? Will I be ABLE to USE the connectors on the VC and the MB at the same time?No.

Figured I'd check here first before dumping money into this. Up until buying a 90GB OCZ Vertex SSD that supports 6GB/s SATA III speed, I was totally satisfied with my setup running quickly on SATA II 3GB/s with regular 7200RPM 500GB Seagate Drive. My system is now running still off of the 500GB SATA II drive and I am using my SSD that is capable of SATA III 6GB/s speed, at the backwards compatible SATA II 3GB/s speed and this drive is my gaming drive that runs as slave to my 7200RPM drive that is master. Game load times and performance is way better/faster on this SSD such as World of Warcraft load times and transition times porting from place to place with map loading etc.

Knowing that I "could" get even faster performance with 6GB/s vs the 3GB/s that I am currently running is very tempting to spend money and run for the speed and take full ADVANTAGE of that SSD's abilities vs running it at 1/2 of its speed.

In order to get this 6GB/s speed of SATA III I will have to replace my motherboard as for I dont have an available PCIe slot for a SATA III drive controller card, and I read somewheres online SOMEONE stating that the PCIe expansion slot with SATA III controller card max's out at 5GB/s due to limited bandwidth of the PCIe slot.

Here is my hardware:

Motherboard = BioStar MCP6PB M2+
CPU =              Athlon II x4 620 ( 2.6Ghz Quad ) AM3
Ram =              DDR2 800Mhz ( 4GB, but only 3GB usable with this OS )
OS =                Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit
Slots=             1 PCIe 16x ( Video Card ), 2 normal PCI slots 1 of 2 populated with 2nd NIC
PSU =             Cooler Master 460 Watt

I am trying to figure out if its worth dumping money into this project to upgrade to 6GB/s SATA III from 3GB/s SATA II for about $120, as for I can only migrate my CPU and cards to the new motherboard which is an AM3+, but I'd have to replace my RAM with DDR3. The Ram upgrade to DDR3 from my 800Mhz Corsair DDR2 would also boost performance as well, but if I am not going to see close to 2x the speed of SATA II in this SSD drives performance at SATA III, I wont bother spending the money.

Thanks for help on making this decision.. 




I guess it really depends if you need that extra speed. And, of course, whether the SSD is capable of speeds higher than 3gbps. Most consumer-available SSD drives top out around half a gigabyte/sec read, and ~300gb/s write, so I don't think you will get any faster by changing the interface.

Now, on the other hand, there are faster SSD drives available, and it seems reasonable to EXPECT that as time passes those will become available to the consumer. So I guess the real question is, Will you have already moved on from that machine by then? And, since you would need that faster SSD anyway, it might make sense for that to be "allotted" as part of some future build.

That's my take on it anyway. I'm envious of anybody that has an SSD, personally. And you spoiled buggers still want more speed!  Thanks BC... And yeah... ever since the Turbo button was invented for the PC in the 286/386 days... I have had a need for speed, even if spoiled with the better hardware.... LOL

Speed is EXPENSIVE, and the good thing is that i am a LOT more conservative now than I was 20 years ago. 20 years ago I would have spent $300 for speed and take a chance on it etc, these days I question whether I should spend $120...LOL

...So to check that there is no extra stand offs under the motherboard ...     

i bought the IN WIN BUC Black SECC steel ATX mid tower. It came with only 3 standoffs. I didn't use any of them as I didn't think they were needed. If you look at the pic from newegg below, its a flat surface.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108395

hey guys..after a long time

i am actually here because i am confused between some graphic cards

i am a brand loyal man..so i always choose Nvidia
my basic PURPOSE is

1] Counter Strike Global offensive (when it comes out)
2] Nvidia 3d Vision

These are my choices :-

a] Nvidia GTX550 ti 1gb
    I've researched enough to understand that Gb's in GPU mean nothing and just for MARKETING purpose
    this is a card that is totally for budget gamers..i have seen some videos about this cards and its
    benchmarks...it can run most of games at high and ultra settings

b] Nvidia GTX560 [NON-Ti]
    Yes, because ti version is out of my budget...i've read somewhere that buy this card if you're gonna
    game at high resoultions or else get a GTX550 ti...it obviously OUTPERFORMS 550ti but i wanna save
    some money here.

This is the HWCOMPARE.com link that i saw for reference..i know these results are just theoritical

c] Suggest if any

My second query is of Nvidia 3d Vision
as i am looking forward to it i wanted to know its requirements ..as far as i know..
1] 120HZ monitor (I have ...its a CRT monitor  )
2] nvidia 3d Vision (I dont have)
3] 3d Supported Graphic card (I am gonna buy)

pls let me know if u guys know any more

PS: NO I dont want any AMD card...so no posts about AMD\ATIWhy limit yourself to nVidia ? Seriously?

ATI cards outperform nVidia cards on a lower budget.

A $200 ATI Radeon will probably be faster than a $200 nVidia card.

(Before people have a go, I know there are exceptions to this.) Quote from: immental1200 on JULY 11, 2012, 12:00:13 PM

Why limit yourself to nVidia ? Seriously?

ATI cards outperform nVidia cards on a lower budget.

A $200 ATI Radeon will probably be faster than a $200 nVidia card.

(Before people have a go, I know there are exceptions to this.)

Why limit yourself to nVidia ? Seriously?

ATI cards outperform nVidia cards on a lower budget.

A $200 ATI Radeon will probably be faster than a $200 nVidia card.

(Before people have a go, I know there are exceptions to this.)

Because Nvidia 3D vision is not supported by ATI cards

Here is a list of what I have, followed by what I am trying to accomplish.

What I have:
- Pico PK102 Portable Projector
- Archo 605 WIFI with DVR Dock

Situation:
I use to play movies in my back yard (with friends) using the portable projector. I WOULD setup the projector, PORT the video to the projector, and the audio to a construction radio. This was a very nice setup. The reason I used the construction radio, is because the speaker on the projector is quieter then my cell phones speaker. The speaker is so bad that I actually have to PLACE it almost against my ear on full volume to hear it. Recently the construction radio stopped working.

What I am looking for:
I have done some research and was looking at getting a set of rechargeable speakers for playing movies in my back yard. This is what I found http://reviews.logitech.com/7061/48/ipod-mp3-docks-reviews/category.htm. They look good, but reading the reviews I find that they don't have loud volume, and that the battery doesn't last long after months of using it. Also, sometimes the battery dies. What I am looking for is a set of rechargeable speakers that have a high sound volume. The speakers that are rechargeable need to have an Auxin for connecting the Archos device listed above. The reason I want rechargeable is that the projector, and Archos device are both rechargeable. This makes it convenient, not having to run any POWER cords to plug-in any device.

Any help or advice would be great.See if ANYTHING offered here
http://www.google.com/search?q=wireless+speakers&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&client=seamonkey-a#q=wireless+speakers&hl=en&client=seamonkey-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&prmd=imvnsr&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=Srb9T6L8G4jpqAH1kZWLCQ&ved=0CKEBEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=15d03a5192cbec06&biw=1366&bih=549
meets your requirements,truenorth
Quote from: truenorth on July 11, 2012, 11:23:11 AM

See if anything offered here
http://www.google.com/search?q=wireless+speakers&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&client=seamonkey-a#q=wireless+speakers&hl=en&client=seamonkey-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&prmd=imvnsr&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=Srb9T6L8G4jpqAH1kZWLCQ&ved=0CKEBEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=15d03a5192cbec06&biw=1366&bih=549
meets your requirements,truenorth

Bose weatherproofs are the way to go...a little more than the Logitech's your lookin at...well worth it.

I have a HP xw4400 that I'm trying to install a hard drive in. Initially, I was going to use the hard drive out of my old computer (also L-type), but decided against it. I watched a couple INSTRUCTIONAL videos, which both used an L-type SATA connection, and I mistakenly assumed that there was only ONE type of SATA connection. I learned that there are more than one type when I got my hard drive and saw that the connection on the new hard drive was an I-type, while the connection on the 4400 is an L-type.

Is this just a matter of getting adapter cables, or do I actually NEED a hard drive with an L-type connection? I was THINKING that the former is true, but I want to make 100% sure before I take that hard drive out of the packaging.Can you show us what you are calling L-Type & I-Type?  There is only 1 type of SATA Data connection, the other is Power.
Does L-Type perhaps refer to the style of cable that has the end bent into an L-shape? That is, the ACTUAL plug is perpendicular to the direction the cord goes?

if so, the connections are the same, of course- the only difference is where the cord comes out.OMG. Total rookie mistake. I have it figured out now. I was going from memory as to what the cables and connections looked like on my old desktop. After your replies, I pulled the old desktop out and actually looked at the way the cables hook up and saw that there was no difference, it was just my perception as to what the differences between the cables and what the back of the hard drive looked like.

Thanks for taking the time to reply, I should have taken more time to look twice at the connections.

As I'm learning more about computers EVERY day, I honestly have one thing in my mind that has puzzled me so I would like an answer.

I'm CURRENTLY running my processor on an Intel(R) PENTIUM(R) 4 3.00ghz, but when I look in my System Information it shows that I have two processors but the other one is clocked at 2.99 ghz. Can someone perhaps educate me on why there is a second core even if my CPU runs on a single core? I'll put a screenshot up for download if you really need it.


[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]A Processor feature called Hyper-Threading manifests itself as a second, "virtual" Processor as seen by the Operating System. Quote from: BC_Programmer on July 15, 2012, 01:39:57 PM

A Processor feature called Hyper-Threading manifests itself as a second, "virtual" Processor as seen by the Operating System.

Could you tell me a little about this feature?

Really it doesn't add one Virtual processor, but instead shows itself as two virtual processors which share many common elements of the processor die. Essentially, the processor can run two sets of instructions simultaneously. It's not as big an improvement as having two completely separate cores entirely, but it does have some gains. Some of the more recent processors in fact have hyper-threading on each core, so a quad-core i7 processor has effectively 8 'processors' in some respects.

Internally, a HT-enabled Processor has two sets of Registers, control registers, and other architecture components. The 'two processors' share the same cache, execution units, and buses.

What it does, basically, is allow a processor to fill "idle" time by running another set of instructions. This is normally what an OS does, of course- idle time is usually filled by scheduling some other program or thread to run. But this gives it more granularity.

The OS thinks there are two processors, so it schedules threads to run on those two processors. The threads running on each processor run in such a way that they "share" parts of the processor; The benefit is that if one of the virtual processors is waiting for memory or some other operation, the other virtual processor can keep going, while the other virtual processor is waiting. Normally, what would happen is that time would be "wasted" as the processor just sits idle for several clock cycles waiting for memory or some other operation. Also, one Virtual processor can can be, say, reading from memory while the other one is using the Execution units to do math or arithmetic or other computations.  In addition, because this is done "below" the OS, it is far faster than the scheduling that would be done for a non HT enabled processor.

Awesome! That's a big plus! So some PC games that would require Dual-Core processors would work? Just a little bit slower than normal?

Quote

Computer Specs.
Intel P4 3.0 Ghz
1.5 Gig RAM
ATI Radeon 9500
200 Gig WD Harddrive

move the OS (windows 7) to the NEW C drive?Why not just use the SSD drive manuf. free UTILITIES to "clone" the OLD drive to the new one ? ?

A couple of DAYS ago, my wireless mouse stopped working.  I was just browsing the web as I normally would.  I replaced the battery, but it still didn't work.  I just assumed it randomly died.  I took it as "Oh well, I GUESS I will buy another."  So today, I connected my wife's Kindle to load some books for her, and it did not enter USB mode.  At first I thought it was the Kindle, but then I remembered about the mouse incident.  I then connected my Samsung Tablet for another test, and it also did not enter USB mode. 

I have tried doing a system restore, and it did not work.  I have tried rebooting and shutting down my computer, and that did not work.  I have tried scanning for viruses and spyware, and there was nothing detected.  I have tried the scannow command, with no errors detected.  I have tried uninstalling all of the USB CONTROLLER devices, and that did not work.  I have no clue what is going on and I am extremely frustrated.  And Now, every 5 seconds or so, the "USB device Not Recognized" message keeps popping up with the annoying windows sound to go along with it.. and I don't even currently have any USB devices attached.......

Anyone have some ideas for me?  I would greatly appreciate any HELP!!! 

Also, FYI, I am using Windows 7 on a newer Sony Vaio laptop.  Please go to the web site below and read the "Linda Yan" RESPONSE. Let us know the results.
http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7itprohardware/thread/f0f179cf-8d78-41d4-a674-22328ff3bd6b/
truenorth Quote from: RyanL on July 16, 2012, 02:26:45 AM

A couple of days ago, my wireless mouse stopped working.  I was just browsing the web as I normally would.  I replaced the battery, but it still didn't work.  I just assumed it randomly died.  I took it as "Oh well, I guess I will buy another."  So today, I connected my wife's Kindle to load some books for her, and it did not enter USB mode.  At first I thought it was the Kindle, but then I remembered about the mouse incident.  I then connected my Samsung Tablet for another test, and it also did not enter USB mode. 

I have tried doing a system restore, and it did not work.  I have tried rebooting and shutting down my computer, and that did not work.  I have tried scanning for viruses and spyware, and there was nothing detected.  I have tried the scannow command, with no errors detected.  I have tried uninstalling all of the USB controller devices, and that did not work.  I have no clue what is going on and I am extremely frustrated.  And Now, every 5 seconds or so, the "USB device Not Recognized" message keeps popping up with the annoying windows sound to go along with it.. and I don't even currently have any USB devices attached.......

Anyone have some ideas for me?  I would greatly appreciate any help!!! 

Also, FYI, I am using Windows 7 on a newer Sony Vaio laptop.

about maximux V gene from asus rog, what it means - "* PCIe 3.0 speed is supported by Intel® 3rd generation Core™ processors." WEIRD, it have or not pcie 3.0 . I must buy 3rd gen intel to work with grap. CARD in 3.0 ? it is like that on any motherboard ? Quote from: gloommer3 on July 14, 2012, 05:53:55 PM

about maximux V gene from asus rog, what it means - "* PCIe 3.0 speed is supported by Intel® 3rd generation Core™ processors." weird, it have or not pcie 3.0 . I must buy 3rd gen intel to work with grap. card in 3.0 ? it is like that on any motherboard ?

Hello.

I recently switched VGA cables on my HP w1907v monitor and ever since the display has been away from the center of the monitor, usually it's in the bottom LEFT corner. The monitor is my second of extended displays, the first being a LCD TV CONNECTED with a HD cable. I'm using an AMD Radeon HD 6570. Its drivers are fully updated, I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the drivers, I've tried factory resetting my monitor and computer, I've tried using 3 different VGA cables. I've tried using image adjustments on AMD VISION Engine Control Center, the display can't be moved anywhere near to the center of the monitor and there's no option to do overscanning. I manage to get it perfectly lined up, but then the monitor has an input signal out of range error.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking.

Have you tried using the auto ADJUST feature on the SCREEN? (Might have skipped this when reading your post.)