Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in Current Affairs.

Not sure if right place did try to search but couldn't find anything.

What I'm trying to do is get the sum of numbers in 1 column but only if the rows in another column EVALUATE to true
for example, Column A is for Male/Female (1 for male, 0 for female) column B is how much each spends on shopping.
I WANT the average Male spend, and then the average female spend.
So was thinking along the LINES of a countif (a2:a50, "0",b2:b50) ??
All i have managed so far playing around is o count how many 1's or 0's but not the sum, if you know what I mean?There are a number of other 'IF' Functions. It sounds like you want AVERAGEIF rather than COUNTIF. There is also SUMIF. They all work the same way as COUNTIF. First argument specifies the range to LOOK for the criteria. second argument is the criteria to look for in the first argument range, and last argument is the range of corresponding values to sum. Should be a "drop-in"  replacement for COUNTIF in your formula.Thank you, worked a treat, used [ =averageif(a2:a100,"0",b2:b100) ]

Can one connect to internet with phone thru computer with internet access using usb cable and I use LG optimus zone 3 phone?What you want is often be called 'Tethering'
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tethering
Here is a general answer.
There are three ways to use a phone to connect a computer to the Internet. All three methods require the phone to be more that just a simple phone. I shouod be a modern smartphone with suitable OS and hardware.You can connect by:
- using a Bluetooth connection from phone to PC
- using a USB from phone to PC
- using the phone as a 'hot spot' and connecting to the PC via Wi-Fi.
More more information, go to the Google Play store and look for
Hot Spot
USB Tethering
Bluetooth Tethering
Examples:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mkdev.usbtethering2&hl=en
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wifi.hotspot&hl=en
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.aynari.app.bluetoothtethering&hl=en
Similar things can be done with the Apple iPhone.
Apple owners look at this:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203302
Quote

With a Personal Hotspot, you can share the cellular data connection of your iPhone or iPad (Wi-Fi + Cellular). If you need help with Personal Hotspot on an iOS device, follow these STEPS.

Another way would need adapter to connect cat 5 cable with internet to smartphone if possible

Can one connect to internet with phone thru computer with internet access using usb cable and I use LG optimus zone 3 phone?

Just wondering, why do this?  Why not just use the computer for your internet access?

Just wondering, why do this?  Why not just use the computer for your internet access?

The ad says Dell will use gold and silver to make jewelry from computers where is the silver besides in the soldier which recyclers say is to small to be reclaimedSee Here...

Not a pretty site...

Also...Computers ages ago, some of the 4000 and 7400 series chips legs were tinned in a silver rich tinning process. But modern computers there is a very very small amount of silver in leadless solders. It WOULD take a great amount of processing to get the silver separated out of it. I can see gold reclaimation being a money maker with the right arrangement since gold is $1337 an ounce but silver is just $17.21 an ounce and the amount of leadless solder to process to get an ounce to me just seems like the cost of this far exceeds the small profit to be made. Tantalum Capacitors use a silver-plated cathode, from what I can find. It's also (allegedly, from what I can find) used sparingly for traces where it won't be exposed to corrosion. It's also sometimes a component of Thermal Pastes and Thermal Pads.The now outdated crt tv and monitors usually yield $10 a little copper a little aluminum some screws, diodes for your spare parts box. TEN degassing coils UNWIND the tape unwind the wire has around 250' cut in to five pieces gives you 50' do this ten times you get a nice heavy piece of copper wire rewind the old tape back on you now have a 50' 12 gauge copper wire with insulation. Downfall it takes two hours to do. Quote

Downfall it takes two hours to do.

Seen lots of articles on the web about CRYPTO currency and with all the others similar to bitcoin, I knew bitcoin is out of the reach of my hardware but what do the others need for processing power.

Found this neat Calculator to check out if interested in mining and wanting to know if you might turn a profit or not without wasting electricity and time.

https://www.cryptocompare.com/mining/calculator/

Just out of curiosity I installed a litecoin miner to see where my video card averaged for processing power. It was rather funny to see 19kH/s. I knew it would be rather poor with a GT 730 with 2GB RAM and 128-bit. After RUNNING this for a few minutes I stopped it since I got my measurement that I wanted as a benchmark for crypto currency. If this system with this video card was run for a week I would be in the negative by $6.67 USD.

Looked to see by plugging in numbers where the break even is between loss and gain and came up with the fact that this system at 265 watts would need to PROCESS 27MH/s in order to be in the green. Two laptops I have one of which operates at 50 watts maximum draw and another at 80 watts maximum draw would need to crunch at 6MH/s and 9MH/s at my cost of 15 cents per kilowatt hour.

Checked out bitcoin to see what that shows for break even for 265 watts and that requires 536MH/s at this time and its ever increasing in processing demand since its an upside down pyramid of ever increasing complexity to get to the NEXT coin.

I was going to test Ethereum but ran into a problem that isnt obvious until you hit the wall which is that it by design requires ever increasing amounts of Video RAM, and because my video card is only a 2GB card, it requires 4GB of Video RAM, and so the program crashes out because not enough Video RAM. On their website they should state be sure you have 4GB of dedicated Video RAM before attempting this. Maybe if I had two cards and paired them I could get 4GB of combined RAM, but I dont have another card to pair with this so, I didnt test this.

However knowing my power consumption of this system full tilt with video card at 100% is 265 watts I was able to figure out that the break even for Ethereum is processing power of equal to or greater than 7MH/s at this time and it will require more processing power as time goes on.

The article that got me interested in this was an article that stated that some MIT student was using his doom room electricity and systems teamed with high end GTX cards to turn a profit at the expense of the college. In there one other guy had to open his dorm window to keep the room cool as he was pulling 2500 watts of power which created the heat of almost 2 space heaters in the small dorm room. He was farming Ethereum and then transferring that into bitcoin which was a safer currency he stated. Interestingly they stated that MIT wasnt available for comment but he has to be either an idiot to brag about this or he has graduated and moved on slamming the door for others there to pull crazy amounts of electricity at college expense. I will try to find the article and link it here when i get home from work. Time to get back on the clock after lunch. 

Also will test it on my 8-core 4Ghz FX-8350 system with the GTX 780 Ti and see what KH/s or MH/s value that shows for a single card which is the heaviest video card ( and CPU/GPU combination ) i have for processing power. I am guessing that the GTX 780 likely is behind the times because the electric bill exceeds the computational power of it to turn a profit, but dont know until tested.  Quote from: DaveLembke on January 12, 2018, 01:17:48 PM

its an upside down pyramid

I cannot enlarge the FONT size in WINDOWS 10.

For example, the TEXT I am typing in this thread is too small to read comfortably.  I usually use font size 12.

Have tried using the Ctrl button to enlarge the font size, but without success. 

Another example:  my desktop icons can be enlarged using the Ctrl button, but their titles remain small.

Can you kindly help?

My thanks as always.

GuzeppiTo resize EVERYTHING, see https://www.windowscentral.com/how-make-text-apps-bigger-windows-10   Or, if you just want to enlarge the text you type in a browser window, you could adjust the font size through your browser menu.  Or, with your browser open, press your Ctrl key and simultaneously rotate your mouse wheel to ZOOM in or zoom out.

Is the letter p in the Spanish word PUEDES PRONOUNCED as a p like in pig or not at all?PRONUNCIATION...The p in Spanish is pronounced exactly like the p in ENGLISH.

I was wondering how long it takes to get POSTS approved by a moderator. I made some posts to HELP yesterday afternoon that are still not approved. Also how long do posts need to be approved? I do know why you want to approve noobs posts and understand it but it's WASTING my time if the OP doesn't get to see my post until the next day.I'm sorry for the delay. Your posts have been approved and you can now post WITHOUT waiting for approval.

Have created a folder on my desktop and filled it with a few short texts typed in WORD 2016.

Is it possible to put this folder in the FIREFOX Bookmarks?  How to do it?

Thank you in advance fro your help.

GUZEPPII was able to create a path in a bookmark by entering it into URL bar for the path on the C: drive and it works. Just enter the path to the folder in the url bar and then create bookmark to it. Screenshot snippet shows success for my test folder at C:

[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]You can use the mouse to drag and drop a file or folder into Firefox and then bookmark it.
Cool... even easier... THANKS for sharing salmon. I wasn't aware of that drag-n-drop feature.  You can drag and drop both files and folders into Opera, Firefox and Google Chrome that I KNOW of. If you drag a folder it looks a bit like you are browsing an FTP site. You can see the files and any subfolders in the folder as clickable links and browse potentially up to the root of the drive using "Up to higher LEVEL directory" links. If you click on a file link various things might happen depending on the file type (images, text files, videos open in the same tab, if the browser doesn't know what to do with the file, it'll suggest you "download" it.). What happens if you drag a file depends on what kind of file it is also. Also you can specify a file or folder in the address bar using UNC path. Best to use foward slashes. As for other browsers, if you drag a file into IE11 it tries to deal with it, and if you drag a folder, it opens in Windows Explorer. Microsoft Edge seems to ignore drag-and-drop.  Incidentally, someone told me their employer hastily rolled out Firefox ESR to them (they are on XP and not getting W10 until later this year) and... guess what? You can browse the C: drive, which you're not even supposed to see! He says he doesn't want to tell his IT helpdesk in case he gets in trouble for even trying it. So folder permissions may need attention if data confidentiality is important.

My wife and I are not online. We simply use our computer as a type writer and information STORAGE.
The operating system is Windows xp.
Our printer has gone out and I am trying to buy a new HP all in one to replace it.
None of the new printers on the market indicate that they are compatible with XP.
Does anyone know if they will work even though XP isn't listed?
If so, will the install disk that comes with it work ok?
Thank you!
BJI wouldnt buy a printer unless there is driver support.

You might find yourself either having to buy an older model online such as off of ebay or amazon which is compatible or buy a newer computer.

 I have a HP Officejet 5610 all-in-one and it is Windows XP compatible. This printer is about 9 years old and continues to work, but the ink is kind of pricey so I dont print much with it.

If you dont need COLOR printing i would suggest a laserjet printer which would be cheaper to print with and if your like me and print on occasion but not all the time, then you dont have to worry about ink cartridges drying up with toner. I print these days through a laserjet to save money and not have to deal with ink that drys up when not used often.

If there are any second hand stores in your area maybe you can buy a good used inkjet or laserjet that will work with XP and not cost that much. Many HP printers have XP. However, it may not be advertised.
Here are some older models that might be discontinued.
8610
8620
8810
8820

The 8HP 610 has a SRP of about $249, but on sale it is about $99 or less.
https://www.staples.com/hp-officejet-pro-e-all-in-one-printer-8610-discontinued-by-manufacturer/product_159212
You can find eBay vendors that sell it  refurbished one with warranty.
But you might prefer Best Buy. Thy may have a store near you.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?id=pcat17071&st=HP+officejet+pro+8610+wireless+printer
I recommend you get extra cartridges at the time purchase.
My HP 8610 has SERVED me almost three years. Now it is gone. It did a fair job.

My use was rather intense. I have lo vision, so I would print my study materials in large print every week using the duplex mode to save paper. I did an average of about five sheets per day.

It was used  on Windows XP, Windows 7 and Windows 10 . It would update the drives automatically as needed.   BJ,
just throwing it out there, before you spend $100'ish dollars on a new printer.

you are know starting to see how still running XP is, and will continue to, bite you on the backside.
eventually your hand may be forced, today it's your printer, who knows what next MONTH may bring.

there will come an event where you have to update/replace that PC, is it worth considering that option now???

If the OP can  move up e to Windows 7 he will have more options for support.

The HP 8610 and its siblings have drivers for a wide range of OS. Linux, Mac OS and most windows.  From server 2003 up  to Windows 10 64 bit.

 However, Windows XP 64 bit is MISSING. 
I thank every one of you for your input. All will be considered. Since we use our computer as mainly a data storage for accounts, investments, serial #'s, VIN #'s and tax forms I was trying to avoid buying a new computer. (I do have everything copied to usb memory sticks)
I am not totally against buying a brand new computer, it's just since this one is still functioning perfectly, and I am thrifty (cheap) LOL.
Again, I thank every one of you for your input. We will explore all of these options now that we have some reliable information.
You all are awesome !!!!
BJ  If yhou can forget about HP, you can get a good cheap printer from Epsom. The Epson 545 works great on Windows XP. Just a bit slow.
The Epson 545 price is about $50 because it is being discounted. Epson will stop making it, but still supply ink. For modest use it is a great choice. Yes, I have one. It is my backup when the HP  fails.

Nothing new here. But it might be new to you. (This was over  a year ago.)
There have been some legal issues about other companies making ink carts for Epson, HP, Lexmark and other big name companies.  Here is a rfeport about how Lexmark toke action because a small company was selling cartilages nearly equal to Lexmark.
Link:
https://www.consumerreports.org/printers/third-party-printer-ink-cartridges-pros-cons/
Consumer reports is a credible source. Here is part of what they found:
Quote

Third-party printer ink was in the news this spring when the Supreme Court ruled in Impression Products, Inc. v. Lexmark International, Inc. that third-party companies could refill toner cartridges originally sold by a printer manufacturer.

Lexmark had argued that Impression was violating Lexmark patents by refilling and reselling such cartridges. Neither company would comment on the lawsuit. And Lexmark, HP, Epson, and Impression Products did not agree to discuss ink prices with Consumer Reports.

In CR's printers survey, 63 percent of RESPONDENTS who used aftermarket cartridges say they’re just as good as name-brand cartridges, while 36 percent think they’re not up to par.
Our testers have found inconsistencies with third-party cartridges.
Rich Sulin, who leads CR’s printer-testing PROGRAM, says that some samples worked without any problems but that other samples of the same products “set off warning messages from their printer or failed to print a test page.” Additionally, he says, “some aftermarket inks worked initially but quickly clogged printer heads.”

Experience ? ? I would say in my experience shame on you for calling Consumer Reports credible...

What they don’t share with you is that they are PAID affiliates.  Thus, product rating and reviews can directly impact the total revenue Consumer Reports can generate

Hi all Guru's and experts

My laptop will easily go into sleep or hibernate mode but I have yet to be able to get it out of those two states. I have tried many different things but to no avail. I just dont know enough about all the proper settings or whether this is software or hardware related. I dont even know how to begin to pinpoint the cause. I did log a call with Dell twice and they seemed to get nowhere fast. I am so frustrated as I have battled wtih this problem since the day I got it which was Apr 2016.


Specs: Dell Inspirion 3543
Intel Core i7 2.4GHz cpu 8 GB RAM 64bit Windows 10 OS


Any help would be most appreciated!



I had a similar issue a few years back and I found that one of the RAM sticks in my wifes system was the cause. I ran memtest86 on her system and found there was an issue. ODDLY the issue didnt show up when the system was running but when it went into sleep or hibernation it would fail to come out of this state. Symptoms I had was that the computer would come to life but just a black screen HUNG in limbo.

I'd run a RAM Test on your system such as memtest86 to make sure the memory is healthy.

Other thing that could cause this but less likely is a hard drive or SSD issue with how it could store information improperly from the memory dump to disk that HAPPENS during these processes. So I would run crystaldiskinfo and see if there are any yellow warnings or red errors for the hard drive or SSD that that system has in its SMART data log.

Beyond that, I have heard of some people having issues with specific drivers for the sleep and hibernation mode. An easy band aid might be to go into power management and remove sleep and hibernation from its list of behavior so that it wont sleep or hibernate, but this can be a pain for some people who enjoy a system that will do this when not used to save electricity and fan life of COOLING fans by a system going down to a cold power level when not needed and then spring back ready to roll when needed.Firstly can I thank you kindly for your response. As stated by you my issue is exactly the same. I can hear it come to life so to speak but the screen remain black and in the limbo!

I have heard of a memtest86 but not sure how to run it, but will do some googling and definitely try that one for starters. I have never heard of crystaldiskinfo but will investigate this as well. Maybe my hard drive is an issue.... I dont use a SSD so not to sure about that one.

Thank you so much for these two extra pointers that I can try.... as I am sure you have picked up I am not a geek so some of the terminology used is a little foreign to me... but rest assured I have no issue with researching and establishing how to achieve this.... :-)

I will update this post with results in due course.
The free edition of memtest86 can be downloaded at link below. Its usually easier for novice users to burn the ISO to a Disc instead of making a bootable USB drive version of it. Once burned to disc its as easy as placing it into your drive and rebooting the computer. On boot it should automatically boot from the disc and start memtest86. If your BIOS is not configured with the DVD drive to boot from before the hard drive, then it would fail to boot from the disc. If this happens on most new COMPUTERS you can press an F key specific to your model and get to a boot loader selection where it lists DVD Drive, USB Drive, Network Boot, Hard Drive, Removable Disk, etc. I placed a link to that info below the memtest86 link in case you run into troubles trying to get it to boot off the disc. Lastly crystaldiskinfo I also have linked below. I use the portable stand alone portable version of it which they still have available in their archive that i linked below.

Memtest86... The free edition is all you need:
https://www.memtest86.com/


If you run into troubles booting from a disc check out this info below which will help in how to get it to boot from the disc if your boot order doesnt have DVD drive listed as boot priority before hard drive:
http://www.boot-disk.com/boot_priority.htm


Crystaldiskinfo... The portable edition as linked here (Note there are newer versions with installers, I personally prefer tools that are stand alone vs ones that have registry hooks into Windows etc):
https://crystalmark.info/download/archive/CrystalDiskMark/CrystalDiskMark3_0_4.zip

Hi, I put this in "other" since I don't exactly know how to word my issue. I own a coffee shop where we have provided free internet for 10 years and have had very few issues but recently we have had a really bad problem with guests using our internet to download illegal things and we are getting the blame for it. I'm pretty illiterate when it comes to hardware and software concerning the internet and I have already asked everyone I know and they either don't know how to help me or they point me to someone that wants to charge me $300 a month and I can't do that and offer free wifi. What I'm wondering is, what hardware/software do I need and can I set something up myself? I've tried to google it but I'm not even sure what I'm looking for so I've had a lot of trouble. Thank you so much for your help I really appreciate it!Well I have seen people go with 3 methods to this problem to solve it.

One method is to shut off the wifi and have computers there for everyone to use that has the browser set with allowed sites added to browser in which all other websites are disallowed. The computers are yours and the customers can use them to sit down and surf and leave after a period of time. However this model is an older model for offering internet access and can be time consuming to maintain the systems to constantly be asked to allow more and more websites to the allowed website list in which you WOULD have access to adding or removing sites that others can surf to. USB PORTS and CD/DVD drives are hands off to customers so that they cant use a hacksaw device and bypass your rules for computer access by use of a USB stick or Disc that say boots to Live Linux and gives them all privileges as well as privilages to modify your hardware and other systems etc.

Second method has a heavy initial cost and its what the majority of the world is using today. Its to have a device in series between your wifi access point or wifi router and the modem connection to the internet. It acts as a traffic cop to allow or disallow websites. BUT this too also requires knowledge of how to go into it and add or remove sites from white list.

Third method is what most go with a web filtering SERVICE provider. In which I contacted WebTitan and had a chat with them today to discuss and get some info for you. I copy pasted the chat below. You can go with any web filtering provider you like, but search results showed they were on the top of the list so I contacted them and gathered some information guessing your setup to be lesser than 50 people connected at a time to get pricing info.

For the first 2 filtering methods ther is the black list or white list option. One method allows everything except for what has been added to the black list. The other blocks everything except for what has been added to a white list. They both have pros and cons.

The white list method is the best method as for there are likely less websites to have to allow than there are to disallow. The unknown is gone as to what they could be accessing as for it only allows access to websites that you have deemed ok and configured as such with the web filter device. The initial setup of this is costly and sort of time consuming as people are requesting you to allow access to websites and you may have to do a google search from your own computer to make sure that a website is ok before allowing it to the white list or if its something like a well known website you can just add it and know that its likely ok. Eventually with this model the requests from people to have specific sites allowed should slow.

The black list method allows all except for what is on the black list. There are so many bad websites and places to go that using this method wouldnt be good. You wouldnt know that a website or url path would need to be blocked until they have already done something illegal etc. Most people use black lists on local computers where say they want their kids to not have access to specific websites, well you can tell a browser to shut off access to a specific website or websites or use a wild card and shut off all websites that follow a naming convention rule.

For the filtering by 3rd party method my guess is that they already have lists made up so that the majority of what is bad or inappropriate for customer content in a internet hotspot is already blocked so this would likely be the easiest for you but the cost might be more than you anticipated for yearly service cost.

Here is the chat I had with Jamie of WebTitan below and website link here if you want to surf their site ( https://www.webtitan.com )

Quote

Info
 at 11:09, Jan 16:
Thank you for choosing to chat with us. An agent will be with you shortly.

Info
 at 11:11, Jan 16:
All agents are currently assisting others. Your estimated wait time is 0 minutes and 7 seconds. Thank you for your patience.

Info
 at 11:11, Jan 16:
You are now CHATTING with Jamie.

Jamie
 at 11:12, Jan 16:
Hi How can I help you

You
 at 11:12, Jan 16:
Looking to set up a wifi hot spot and looking for a filtering service that will disallow people from surfing porn and downloading illegal content on our internet connection. Was interested in pricing for a small internet cafe and if there is any hardware that needs to be added or if I set up a proxy connection thru you to filter content?

Jamie
 at 11:14, Jan 16:
we have two options for you, we have a cloud version where we host this on AWS cloud server and there would be no need for any onsite hardware. Or we have a on premise version in which you would install on hardware?

Jamie
 at 11:15, Jan 16:
Do you have any specific requirements other than the basic content filtering?

You
 at 11:17, Jan 16:
Well ease of maintaining it and price pretty much. If on onsite hardware, would it be a web filter device that you provide or I would take one of my computers and use it like a proxy/gateway for all traffic to go though using your software?

Jamie
 at 11:20, Jan 16:
I would recommend the cloud version just the fact of an ease of set and low management necessary, people only go with our Gateway service if they have specific requirements as it's slightly more granular. We supply the software which you can install on any appliance HiperV etc.

Jamie
 at 11:21, Jan 16:
Do you have a rough user count?

You
 at 11:23, Jan 16:
well with the user count, its an open wifi hot spot in a cafe so there could be any number of people connected to the open wifi internet connection at any time as they stay to eat or drink coffee and surf on their own devices. So Im not sure of actual count other than that its likely to be less than 40 people at a time

You
 at 11:23, Jan 16:
Do I select a user count and then your service would only allow that many people to be connected on my wifi or?

Jamie
 at 11:24, Jan 16:
Yes exactly so we work in brackets so you would fall into our 50 User bracket. For 1 year = $810

Jamie
 at 11:25, Jan 16:
Would you be free for a quick call now, I can give you a quick talk through our product and discuss pricing with you?

You
 at 11:25, Jan 16:
ok... so what happens if a person with the 51st device trys to connect it just states that sorry all internet connections are currently in use or?

Jamie
 at 11:27, Jan 16:
No it will let them access the internet, and take an average of a 5 day user count, If you are constantly over the 50 user bracket it will flag with our support team and you would have to upgrade. I suggest that the 50User count will be adequate for you needs

You
 at 11:28, Jan 16:
Ok... sounds good. Actually is there a good number to call you at when times are less busy here to discuss further? Im currently multitasking on phone and internet chat

Jamie
 at 11:30, Jan 16:
Yes 813-304-2544

You
 at 11:30, Jan 16:
Ok Thank You for your time. I will call later. Have a great day!

I have an HP 10 2101 and DOWNLOADED the wrong firmware and now the WHOLE thing is Chinese and I can't use it. Is there any way to crash it on PURPOSE or DELETE the firmware?

I was looking at the pin out specifications for 8 pin network CABLE I do need see any voltage seems like you can not charge a cell phone using an adapter that connect cell phone to 8 pin cable? USE USB!!!!... Its a 5 volt power source for a 5 volt charged device!

Dont bother with power off of ethernet NIC. Also if you use an adapter that has a PoE source you will smoke that phones charging circuit with over voltage and possibly have a lithium fire.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet

If you have a shortage of USB ports, add a USB adapter card inexpensively. Or add a USB HUB.

On a MOD I did about 10 years ago I mounted a router and switch to inside of a desktop computer and powered them off the 12V extra P-connector off of the unused P-connectors from computers internal power supply for a lan party system where others connected to my box, but I wouldnt advise using a DIRECT 5V tap to an unused plug as for its 5 Volts with a boat load of amps behind it and if SOMETHING goes wrong with powered off of USB, the USB will overload and stop power to the device, but if something goes wrong with direct 5 volt internal power you can have a fire!

Kind of confused with this one. I went to download Visual Studio Community Edition 2015 from Microsoft and there is an option for EXE or DVD ISO. Because I WANT the offline installer option I selected the DVD ISO. Well its 7.1GB in size.... so do I need to span this somehow to 2 DVD's or should I use some tool to just take everything out of the ISO and install from ISO contents OUTSIDE of .ISO form?

ISO's normally fit within the media that they are labelled for. So this is weird to have DVD option but a single ISO that is 7.1GB

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I think it's because they have pretty much abandoned the CD/DVD formats and no longer pay ATTENTION to those size limits...

Throw it on a USB stik instead...

PS spanning always caused fits for me.The ISO is just a package these days. You could buy some dual layer DVDs, assuming your writer will handle them (most will, these days) or you can keep the ISO somewhere like a pen drive and mount it as a virtual optical drive or you could open the ISO (e.g. with 7zip) and coppy the whole shebang to a folder on a hard drive.
COOL!   Thanks for the USB idea to send the ISO to USB stick. That I have done before with Linux distros that are various sizes and intended for USB.

I forgot about that option. Brain was stuck on DVD media  It's better when brain gets stuck on BBQ Ribs...You can make a bootable Gruub4DOS pen drive with a bunch of ISOs and a menu. If you use USB-3 drive and port you can get quite nice performance out of a Linux live CD, GParted, Macrium, Windows Rescue DISK, etc.
My first thought was Dual-Layer DVD.

Even beyond that, there is Blu Ray- a Blu Ray Burner can BURN ISO files to a Blu-Ray which means they can get to around 40GB and still be 'legitimate' for some form of Optical Media.An 8G usb stik is less than a blank blu-ray diskOccasionally I find single sets of one blank 25 GB blu-ray disc at my local dollar store. Not naming which one, as I do not know if you can on this site yet. Might want to check dollar store before buying 8GB usb drive. Also, if you get a usb drive, it would be ideal to get a 16 GB one for this file size as an 8 GB one will almost be conpletely full, possibly slow at setup of this ISO file or program.44.95$ for 25 here, or about 1.75$ each, 8GB USB Drive is around $8.99.

However a Blu Ray burner is necessary and most people don't have one which is why it is arguably not economical, as they are also quite expensive. (~$100)I have a pile of various size USB sticks from very old 64MB to 1GB sticks all the way to 64GB in size. The small ones I still use for playing MP3's in my car but otherwise are pointless in such small capacity. The last USB stick I got was a 3-pack of 16GB sticks on sale for $15.00 so it worked out to $5 for 16GB or $15 for total combined capacity of 48GB.

I almost bought into the blu-ray drives to store larger amount of data in same physical area as what a DVD disc would use in my home, but in all actuality for the money an external hard drive can contain far more storage capacity on the cheap, so that 3TB seagate external for $129.99 makes more sense. The price of the drive and its discs kept me away from upgrading to blu-ray. Maybe if they marketed the blu-ray like they did the inkjet printers it would have been more successful to make drives cheaper to get and make up for the cost in a monopolized disc market where the more you burn with it the more they make similar to how the printers were the more you print with it the more ink used. The 25GB capacity per blu-ray disc was tempting but the price tag never came down to what I wanted when it was the next best thing. These days the price tag came down but the need for optical storage like that is gone for myself. Burning to DVD-R or +R disc's with 4.7GB capacity is most of the time plenty of space, and DVD drives are common so the media especially if DVD-R vs +R will work in just about any drive out there vs if I switched to blu-ray then i would need to either get an external blu-ray or install those drives into systems that need to be able to share discs.

It will be interesting if optical storage actually goes the path of holographic data storage for home computer use. Its available now if your rich, but its still far cheaper to just have an external hard drive with far more capacity as for the ones I have seen are less than 1TB and price tag of like $15,000 for the drive and $150 for each media that holds the data. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holographic_data_storage

Thanks everyone for your input on this; and I was able to go the USB route to install from that and get VS 2015 Community edition installed using a 16GB USB stick that I already owned. I could have tried to squeeze it onto an 8GB stick which shows 7.2GB capacity but I had the 16GB kicking around so used that instead. 

I got a Blu Ray Drive myself but the main reason was so I could play Blu-Ray Discs, The burning features were a separate "perk" I utilized later.

The EXE version of the installer will only download what you want to install- so where the ISO packs in pretty much everything that is part of the product, you might not want all of it. With 2017 they also reworked it so that the Installer doubled as an updater, which I've found convenient.I installed 2017 but the Head First 3rd edition C# book I am learning from was written with examples in 2013. Looking online people suggest using 2015 with this book. So I went the route of 2015. http://shop.oreilly.com/product/0636920027812.do

Saw a few issues with people using this book with 2017, so going with 2015.
https://www.reddit.com/r/csharp/comments/64omjw/head_first_c_third_edition_and_visual_studio_2017/

Side-channel ATTACK?
This term might appear  in recent news articles about a perceived weakness in the way modern computer chips work. Such a weakness might be used by cyber criminals to compromise data security.
Here is the Wikipedia explanation:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Side-channel_attack
Quote

Timing information, power consumption, electromagnetic leaks or even sound can provide an extra source of information, which can be exploited to break the system. Some side-channel attacks require technical knowledge of the internal operation of the system, although others such as differential power analysis are effective as black-box attacks. Many powerful side-channel attacks are based on statistical methods pioneered by Paul Kocher.

Historical analogues to modern side-channel attacks are known. A recently declassified NSA document reveals that as far back as 1943, an engineer with Bell telephone observed decipherable spikes on an oscilloscope associated with the decrypted output of a certain encrypting teletype.[...
...
In the 1980s, Soviet eavesdroppers were suspected of having planted bugs inside IBM Selectric typewriters to monitor the electrical noise generated as the type ball rotated and pitched to strike the PAPER; the characteristics of those signals could determine which key was pressed.[10]

I wan to copy a large amount of data from one PC to another.
What i s the best tool?
I was thinning using Robocopy on Windows 10 64 bit from the target PC
Should the copy program be resident the hos tor the target?

ThanksStuff like this, I generally just copy/paste through Windows. I set up a share on one PC that the other can access. Then I select and copy/paste what I want from one to the other and let it transfer the data. When i am done I select all contents of the destination and look at properties and verify that the properties of the data at the destination is the same file and folder count and uses the same amount of data for storage.

From command line though a mapped drive in the past if you want it to be at a command shell vs a windows copy/paste, I have used xcopy with the /v switch which verifies file size between source and destination. But I also use /s/d/y/h so I get the latest date/time stamp file so if there is an older file of same size, the newer file overwrites it if for example this isnt the first copy ever but an update to the destination from the source as well as any hidden data also transfers.

As far as 32 and 64 bit ... I dont see the importance of this. packets are a fixed size so there wouldnt be a speed advantage to a 32 bit or 64 bit OS for data transfer. Pretty much just the computers themselves and network connection speed and what drives are in them determines how fast the transfer is, such as a older computer could have the hard drive as a bottleneck to speed on a gigabit network share etc. Whereas a SSD will send data over the network faster than a slow mechanical hard drive.

This will be better than using a USB 2.0 external drive to transfer data between them by going over a 100mbps or 1000mbps network.Somewhere I read that the copy and paste might not be a good thing for a large set of things.  For one, it is hard to select a large number if directors mad not make a mistake. The might be some limit as to how many things can copy in one SWOOP, but I don't know, there does not seem to be any limit published.

Amway, I tried to copy and paste and did it wrong and stuff got mixed up badly. The contents of something ended inside the directory of some other thing.

So I have tried Robocopy and got an error message. Then  I found that the command things has to be run as administrator.

Somewhere I read that the copy and paste is faster. Is that TRUE?  I've been told that copy/paste from one computer to another over network is faster than via command shell xcopy or robocopy because of how Windows Indexing Service has a map of where all data is and xcopy and robocopy uses discovery methods which are slower.

*Note: I have never done a speed test to see how long it takes to copy via copy/paste or xcopy or robocopy to see if there is any noticeable difference. I have a 100mbps network and its plenty fast.

About a month ago I was transferring 460GB of my Steam Client games from one computer to another vs having to redownload all the games and it took quite a while. I started the copy at 5pm and it was still transferring at midnight, and when i woke up the next day it was done. I just left the computers running and it did the copy successfully. If I needed the data transferred even faster I could have connected the hard drive of the one computer to the other internally over SATA II 300MBps connection and according to calculator 25 minutes to transfer. http://www.calctool.org/CALC/prof/computing/transfer_time

*Using that calculator my 460GB at 100Mbps connection took around 10 hours.Thanks, It looks like I can not use ROBOCOPY  or anything to copy over Ethernet,
 I am going to just copy from a portable hard drive instead.
As you noted, it takes only a matter of minutes to copy from a hard drive, not several hours. One might guess that the security stuff gets in the way. 
I will come back when I get it done. Took only a short time to prepare a backup hard drive just now. Like 25 minuets  or so.
Right now I am waiting to get a fresh copy of Maximum Reflect the 64 bit machine.
OK, it is now ready. Be back in a bit.

EDIT: Took awhile. Maximum can not do a restore while window is running n. So I had to make the 64 bit PE DVD for the Windows 10. Once I got over that, tghe rest was easy. You have to boot from the rescue CD/DVD  to restore any partitions, even partitions that applier to only CONTAIN data. 

But i wonder, how to people use ROBOCOPY when there is no other feasible choice?
Well, there are some things that will always be a mystery.   I don't see why you can't use Robocopy, Xcopy, or (for that matter) Teracopy over ethernet. I have a multimedia collection that is currently 160 GB in size, stored on a 3 TB external drive (USB 3) and I backed it up to a folder on my 2 TB NAS in about 1 hour 15 minutes. I also have a picture collection that is 26 GB in size and this is on an internal SATA 3 drive. This backed up to the NAS in about 15 minutes. The LAN is gigabit ethernet but the practical speed seems to be about 300 - 400 Mbit/sec. Once they are backed up you only need to copy new/changed fies which is easy to arrange.
Something went wrong and I could not understand it.
Some kind of 'you do not have permission' thing.

Later, I did use ROBOCOPY to  to copy files from an external hard drive. But over my local Ethernet connection things go bad.
I am able to just copy and paste a directory over my Ethernet. But anything to big or complicated is just too much for my limited attention span.

Before I started using Windows 10, I just copy any way I wanted.
 But the new security rules in Windows 10just leave  me in the dust.
Windows 10 makes me walk to town. 
Oh, I did find more stuff about ROBOCOPY.
 
RASHCNETO

Found in ROBOCOPY documentation the word RASHCNETO, which is
not really a word. Instead, it measn one or more of the
letters given can be used as qujlifieres to to modify an
option in a ROBOCPY command.
   
Two options taht use qualifiers are:

/ia:   Includes only files with specified attributes
/xa:   Excludes any files with specified attributes

The RASHCNETO refers to the following attributes.
 R – Read only
 A – Archive
 S – System
 H – Hidden
 C – Compressed
 N – Not content indexed
 E – Encrypted
 T – Temporary
 O - Offline

Example: Copy all files on drive K: to drive E: and exclude  any files with the hidden attribute.
ROBOCOPY D: F: /xa:H

Notice that the letter S is here used to mean system.
 In another place that letter S means sub directories.

So this is proper:
ROBOCOPY D: F: /xa:H /S

Now it copies all the directorates and excludes hidden file

(Some commands only apply to specific versions of Windows.)
Source:
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/previous-versions/windows/it-pro/windows-server-2012-R2-and-2012/cc733145(v=ws.11)
Link does not work  I'm confused...

Are you saying you used the "RASHCNETO " command ? ?...if so why ?

If i was copying/moving that much data i would simply use a disk imageing app and be done by now.I have trouble using ROBOCOY over local Ethernet network.
I can use XCOPY.
But I read that ROBOCOPY was in some way better.

I found that there is an option for exclusion of same files.So there t is where I found  RASHCNETO

In Windows 7 I set my remote drive to Z: and then I tried:
Code: [Select]ROBOCOPY Z: E: /xa:HBut that did not permission issue.
Therefor I can not use ROBOCOY  over my Ethernet.
Somehow I can not get the right permission using windows 7 64 bit.
My Windows 7 is the pro 64 bit  home version. I think.
This might be the issue:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-nz/help/2639043/a-robocopy-command-updates-dacls-incorrectly-in-windows-7-or-in-window
Quote

Assume that you use the following robocopy command to perform file replication on a computer that is running Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2:
robocopy <Source> <Destination> /sec /mir
However, the DISCRETIONARY Access Control Lists (DACLs) for the files are updated incorrectly. This issue occurs even if the DACLs in the source location and in the destination location are the same.

As some of you know, my attention span is getting shorter. I need a cloud storage for BACKUP of IMPORTANT things  that take up space.
This report GOT my attention:
https://www.thebalance.com/free-cloud-storage-1356638
Yest it is not clear how ONE of these would be better for a Senior.
Presently I have Google drive, but is another free service any better?

Something I would like is to let a few people have a folder for their eyes only.

Any thoughts? 

You are fine with Google drive...

Is storage space becoming an issue ? ?

Federal Debt  $ 23,000,000,000,000
Taxpayers                     138,000,000
You Owe                       $166,666.66I think you'll have to explain a little more.Im lost with this too as for 23 Billion figure doesnt ring a bell.And just a friendly reminder to make sure this thread doesn't end up on "political" territory Did I do that right 23 trillion debt divided by 138 million taxpayers equals 166 thousand each?45,000,000 Kangaroos

Australians 24,816,958

Every Australian must kill: 1.8 Kangaroos.

Canadians : 36,290,000

Projected Maple Syrup Exports: 42,190,300 Kilograms

Every Canadian must personally produce: 1.16 Kilograms of Maple products.
They just need to pay it back in cybercurrency. Get some saps into thinking that GovCoin has worth. (MADE up GovCoin as a governments idea of a cybercurrency scheme ). Those who buy into it with real money pay off down the debt.   Edited that to "pay down" vs "pay off" as for I doubt it could ever be corrected without a collapse and reset. Even if they stopped spending now which they cant do because they spend more money then they take in from tax payers, it might only delay collapse and then a monetary reform for a reset like all other countries out there that have had their money system collapse and then the old money is obsolete and they start over. The biggest problem though is that the USA has a lot of countries and people riding on its economic shoulders and so it wont be a simple money reset of a 3rd world country, it would be really bad and likely war would break out as there is need for food and fuel etc and the money is worthless, and in the shadow of the failed fiat currency I have doubts that precious metals would even save people from starvation as for you cant eat precious metals and so food and fuel would obtain a worth greater than what some heavy shiny metal that while rare there are tons of these precious metals around the world and food and fuel itself is more valuable than that.

At one point I thought about how much money made could be absorbed by numismatists. When less money is circulating it potentially has more worth. So get some saps to collect coins that are mass produced and offset inflation by the collectors involuntarily absorbing some of the inflation potential. Just think if all the state quarters, presidential dollars, and the rarely seen 2009 pennies, SBA dollars, Eisenhower Dollars, and all other clad mass produced CHANGE 1965 and newer in the USA all of a sudden was used to buy goods as for money in savings and in hiding doesnt really have a value to topple the economy. Its all fiat money and too much of it too quickly to buy goods is a bad thing.

Additionally economic collapse could come from people spending too much. As for if too much money went to buy goods vs sitting in bank accounts and in stocks it would flood the economy with paper that otherwise when its TUCKED away its not a problem, but when too much of it shows up too quickly it causes inflation as there is to much to go around and the printing presses print massive amounts of money in hopes that people will stock pile it to offset the fiat pyramid which is tied to national debt.Government and public debt isn't the same as private debt. It is debt accrued through public securities both internal and external, such as government bonds. It's not analogous for example to a credit card bill you didn't pay or something.If everybody owes everybody, doesn't it balance out?   
Where is your source for taxpayer info ? ?

Sounds LOW to me... Quote from: DaveLembke on February 01, 2018, 07:52:59 AM

They just need to pay it back in cybercurrency. Get some saps into thinking that GovCoin off
At one point I thought about how much money made could be absorbed by numismatists. When less money is circulating it potentially has more worth. So get some saps to collect coins that are mass produced and offset inflation by the collectors involuntarily absorbing some of the inflation potential. Just think if all the state quarters, presidential dollars, and the rarely seen 2009 pennies, SBA dollars, Eisenhower Dollars, and all other clad mass produced change 1965 and newer in the USA all of a sudden was used to buy goods as for money in savings and in hiding doesnt really have a value to topple the economy. Its all fiat money and too much of it too quickly to buy goods is a bad thing.

Some day the five year old will grow up and have kids.
The kids will pay. Or their kids.

So I read in the newspaper earlier today that Dell was having a Doorbuster Deal starting at 11am ET on 2/19 ( Today )

Well I contacted Dell to inquire about this at 9:54am ET and was told it would be available for purchase after 11am. No warning of how much time you have to make purchase of one.

The Server is the Dell PowerEdge T30 with a Xeon E3-1225 V5 3.3Ghz Quadcore with 8MB Cache with 8GB DDR4 and a 1TB SATA3 Hard Drive and it was listed as a savings of $409 normal price of $708 and available for $299 at 11am ET.

Well I went to go make purchase of one and well thats when i found out that its more of a early BIRD gets the worm lottery. You need to call right at 11am and be lucky to get one before supplies run out. I inquired at 2:50pm because I got busy at work and was GOING to see if I could still get one, and thats when i found out the real deal about this in which you needed to call them right at 11am and while everyone else calls for one of these you may or may not get one.

Below is chat log. They were happy to sell me one at sale price of $549 but thats not what i wanted to pay. 
https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/servers-storage-and-networking/poweredge-t30-mini-tower-server/spd/poweredge-t30/pet30_12084_3

I will just keep running what I have. They do have a Pentium dual core server for $349 but that CPU is too weak for my needs. I was really hoping on getting a modern Xeon quadcore at a good deal. 


Quote

Customer Dave    
Initial Question/Comment: 2_184

SYSTEM    
You are now being connected to an agent. Thank you for using Dell Chat

System    
Connected with Garshakuntha_Naresh

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
Welcome to Dell  US Small Office Chat. My name is Naresh and I will be your Dell.com Sales Chat Expert.You can now chat with us 7 days a week!. I can be reached at [email protected] or via phone at 1-800-289-3355 ext. 4161557.
How can I help you today?

Dave    
Hello... I am trying to locate a deal i found in NY Daily News where there is a Presidents Day Sale and it has listed a Dell PowerEdge T30 Server with Xeon E3-1225 v5 CPU for $299.00 with free shipping. Online when i went to make my purchase it has the Xeon Server listed for $549.00. Its referenced as PET30_12084_3SE

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
Glad you chatted in today, I'd be happy to help you

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
The deal has already expired however it is still available to purchase $549 plus tax

Dave    
Online it has a weaker Pentium CPU system for $349 but no offering of this Xeon CPU server for $299 on a 2/19 Doorbuster Sale

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
http://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/deals/poweredge-tower-server-deals?~ck=mn

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
Above is the web link of the ongoing server deals

Dave    
How much time did customers have after 11am to make this purchase, because I dont see the rules listed as to how long the sale was active for?

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
As this are at discounted prices, the deal would complete within minutes, sometimes within a minute itself

Dave    
ok so it was more of a calling lottery as to if you actually get one then?

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
You could say that, most of customers would be waiting for Door buster deal to start, they will some time be ready online 15 to 20 minutes prior to the deal starts

Dave    
ok... thats too bad because I really hoped to replace an older server i have but at $549 I might as well keep running the old HP Server. Thank You for your time. Next time I guess i will have to call right at 11am

Agent     Garshakuntha_Naresh    
Sorry about missing the opportunity and I would say to be ready by at least 10 minutes prior to the deal starts

Dave    
ok thank you... have a good day

Wish I had read the newspaper. My laptop is not booting now as of yesterday.

A TORRENT is a form of file sharing.

Disclaimer. This is not a tutorial on how and why of torrents nor is in an attempt to justify the wrong use of torrents. My objective is to show a torrent is a variation of file sharing that can be very useful in some common  networking goals.

Here's a quote:
Moving a 1.5GB BINARY blob to countless servers is a non-trivial technical challenge. After exploring several solutions, Facebook CAME up with the idea of using BitTorrent, the popular peer-to-peer file sharing protocol. BitTorrent is very good at PROPAGATING large files over a large number of different servers.
Source:
https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/8-legal-uses-for-bittorrent-youd-be-surprised/

Now somebody might say that does not count only because  is used internally and that is not the same thing as using it over the internet.

Don't get me started. 
Games COMPANIES use the Torrent protocol to distribute game updates. NASA use it to distribute large data publicly including a 2.9 GB image of the earth from space. In 2010, the UK government released several large data sets showing how public money was being spent. To make these available, they offered them via BitTorrent. This allowed the government to save on bandwidth costs.
Torrents have been given a negative stereotype. And as Salmon shared they are used for good. Only torrents I use are a part of games I play. Some of them I kill off the SEEDing so that I can get updates but others dont get updates off of me which protects my upload bandwidth from someone seeding off of my game installs update contents.

One product I dont care for is Pando Media Booster that many of the free online games use to distribute their game installs and updates among peers. I cripple or kill it after I get the game install content for a 25GB install game etc.

Hello again. I was wondering where the forum for Android DEVICES was on this site. The other tech site I am on has ONE, so I was wondering where it was on this site before I post.You can post in this (the "other") forum.Thank you. You have been very helpful. Can I post the issue in this topic or do I have to CREATE a different topic?Post here. This thread will be the Android forum Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 11, 2018, 09:04:00 PM

Post here. This thread will be the Android forum

A friend said l you can not do that.   
But on the Internet there are some articles that say you can. 
But they are near impossible me to understand.   
Look here:
https://www.howtogeek.com/214943/how-to-use-your-roku-like-a-chromecast/
How to Use Your Roku Like a Chromecast.

Does this work?
My PC has updated Windows 10 pro 32 bit with Chrome and Edge browsers.
The Roku is ONE of the early models.
Can anybody here provide a simple explanations of how it can be done?

Thanks in advance. 
Navigate to the Home screen on the Roku.  On your PC, open Chrome and go to Netflix or Youtube and start a video playing. In the upper right-hand CORNER of the browser, click on the cast icon.  That will bring up a list of available devices to cast to, the Roku should be in that list, if so, SELECT it and the video will appear on the TV connected to the Roku.  If the Roku doesn't show up in the list, it could be that your model is too old (maybe CHECK with Roku tech support), or both need to be connected to the same network or some other network issue. Thank you. Now I get it. I SHALL try that. 

So I decided to open up my main computer to clean it of DUST that I have used for the last 8 years and its has been the most reliable computer I ever owned. Sadly I found a capacitor by a VRM near the DDR2 RAM that is swollen badly and standing 1/3 length higher than the other capacitor next to it of same size and so I realized I needed to pull the plug on this system because when and if that capacitor finally shorts internally it might kill other components and I dont want that blown capacitor smell in my office which I have had happen before and it took 2 weeks to get rid of that fishy smell. 

Fortunately I have a number of computers, over 14 of them to pick from with 2 systems far better in performance ( 8-core FX processor 3.3 and 4.0 Ghz beasts vs the Athlon II x4 620 2.6 Ghz) to use but I am trying to decide if I should just junk that motherboard or remove the capacitor and replace it. All other electrolytic capacitors on the board look healthy, and it was totally unexpected to find that swollen capacitor that was starting to blow out its rubber stopper at its base of the can like that. The capacitor plague happened about 4 or 5 years before this board was manufactured and it might have simply failed because electrolytic capacitors dry up and dont last forever. If that's the case that they are all aged then the fate of this motherboard is more grim as for it means that every electrolytic cap should be replaced with same spec/value capacitors and for a Biostar MCP6PB M2+ low cost budget motherboard its then beyond realistic non desperation repair.

Not sure if anyone ever grows attached to a computer similar to a car that has brought you so far and so many miles and then when its the end of the life for that computer or car its kind of bumming. I have had better computers that I could use but was drawn to this system for most of what I do because its been a good work horse for me and paired with the Athlon II x4 2.6Ghz and 4GB DDR2 800Mhz RAM it even has been able to play most of my games that I play with no problems.

 Undecided on if I will junk it or not. I might just hold onto the motherboard since it doesnt take up much space and save it in case I ever have a need for a socket AM2+ motherboard for something and swap out that one capacitor, but I dont feel that I can trust that motherboard anymore with as rugged and work horse that it once was because in the back of my mind there is the thought of will something else die on this board and take out other parts like video card, RAM, hard drive, CPU, power supply, etc. So its now a risky board to use for anything important.

The good thing is that since I have been using Google Drive for the last year, I dont have any important data to migrate. I can wipe the SSD drives and use those in another build. I fired up my AMD FX-8300 3.3Ghz 8-core with 8GB 1600Mhz DDR3 and GeForce GTX 780 ti and upon installing Google Drive I then had access to all my important data on the cloud.

I have a AMD FX-8350 4.0Ghz system but I dont like that system because its 125 Watt TDP CPU causes the CPU fan to run full tilt on the stock cooler that is barely adequate for its heat output and the fan is noisy and annoying. The 95 watt TDP AMD FX-8300 3.3Ghz is almost as powerful and runs much cooler and far quieter on stock heatsink that came with it. So thats why I chose the 3.3Ghz vs the 4.0Ghz system as my next main system to use.It is my understanding that electrolytic capacitors usually fail open, so I don't think shorting would be a serious concern. The "vent" on the top is designed to expand but the entire casing is not, so if a cap is taller than another it probably has always been- the Vent at the top is the main "flex" area and it's designed simply so when it does fail it doesn't build pressure and explode, but RATHER leaks out more slowly- and, through the top, away from the mounting PCB, in an obvious way.

usually they fail to work electronically before they leak or explode, because their ESR (Electrical Series Resistance) goes up and causes problems for whatever circuit they are in. for VRMs, this usually means the system will shut itself off or hard-hang arbitrarily.

Looked online for a healthy motherboard to see what the correct height is on the 2 capacitors near the VRM's by the RAM.

Come to find out the 2 capacitors that I thought were the same height are different in height thanks to finding this picture on google images. From looking into the case I thought they were the same cap with the dust on them and the failed one heavily lifted. I've seen them fail before and lift off the PCB when pushing out their rubber stoppers and assumed it was 1/3 the way up.

The top of the capacitor is domed where it should be flat to indicate failure and the X in it hasnt split yet to vent, so I assumed the pressure went to point of least resistance in which it would continue to vent out the bottom at its rubber stopper and legs or pop its aluminum casing off or explode.

I had a computer 19 years ago that I built from a mail/internet order computer business called JDR,  http://www.jdr.com/ , and the low cost case came with a power supply and I built an inexpensive Pentium 3 700Mhz computer as a requirement for a college course where I didnt have much money and the professor wouldnt let me assemble used parts together but it had to be completely parted out and brand new parts and software. I went with them because they were the cheapest I could find. The chinese cheapo case power supply after Windows Me was installed on 20GB hard drive EXPLODED after reboot of Windows and the computer was pumping out white fishy smelling fog like smoke. JDR made it right in shipping me a replacement power supply at no cost to me in which this other one didnt explode, but the oddest thing is that the power supply was still powering the computer and computer was running just fine but became a party fogger of fishy smelling stench. I ended up yanking the cord out of the wall to stop the fishy party fogger, but my office an part of house smelled nasty for about 2 weeks after that from this. 

In the picture #1 I added a small picture at top left of capacitors that fail that can push out their rubber stopper and raise off their legs as pressure inside the cap builds but doesnt vent from the top.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Is the capcatator in question  slightly slanted? I think I SAW that in one of the photos.These photos are off the internet, but not my pictures. Just used these as example to reference to my motherboard and the capacitor location and the smaller image at the top left of the first image is to show how capacitors that dont blow their tops can blow out their bottoms as pressure goes to point of least resistance. So such as on my motherboard at home the capacitor is domed over and the X which is where the top is suppose to crack open to vent when it fails reached a point to where the aluminum wont yield to open a means of venting and so the capacitor itself started pushing its rubber stopper out of its bottom. I thought pressure raised it about 1/3 higher than it should be, but the capacitor actually is a taller capacitor where I thought looking into the dusty case with motherboard still mounted that it was same height capacitor, but BC's suggestion that the capacitor might be of a different height made me look online for pictures of the MCP6PB M2+ motherboard to see if that is the case or not. To which I found that BC was correct in that the capacitor that I thought was lifted 1/3 the way off the board while it has failed hasnt lifted itself as dramatic as I had thought when looking at it last night. For what it is worth, I have a Socket 478 (Pentium 4) motherboard where a few of the VRM caps are bulging which works fine; and another one where they weren't bulging at all, but had failed enough that the system would freeze WITHIN 5 minutes of use and wouldn't work again without a "rest". Obviously the bulging caps are worse than not ahving them bulging because you know something is wrong but without other symptoms personally I don't think it's worth worrying about (as long as they aren't leaking on the board, of course!)This system was otherwise working completely fine. If I wasnt looking for problems inspecting it all when cleaning out the dust I would have still been using it unknowing to the capacitor issue.

I was looking through some dual-core systems I have to see what motherboards they had in them, as for I thought i had a motherboard that could take 4 x 2GB sticks for 8GB and instead I found a motherboard that I didnt know was newer and a better hardware pairing for the AM3 quadcore...

A socket AM3 ( Biostar A780L3C ) that can take up to 16GB DDR3 RAM ( 2 x 8GB ), and make better use of the Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz CPU. I got it off a person getting rid of it with a Athlon II x2 215 2.7Ghz because they bought a Core i7 for gaming and no longer had a use for it because the dual-core wasnt enough processing power. I didnt know I had a EXTRA socket AM3 board system kicking around and so this was a cool surprise. I thought they were either AM2 or AM2+

Going to install that better AM3 motherboard in place of the troubled board, install the Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz to that better board and I have 8GB of DDR3 1333 that i can stuff into it. It has the legacy IDE so I can still use my DVD-RW drive that is IDE and my SSD drives can plug into SATA ports and then just reinstall Windows 7 64-bit.

The old board that has the cap issue I will put that dual-core into it and install into the tower that the better board came out of and save it for the occasional project that I work on that is separate from my regular system.

You said:
Quote

The capacitor plague happened about 4 or 5 years before this board was manufactured and it might have simply failed because electrolytic capacitors dry up and don't last forever.

Unknown can be either not verified or the AUTHOR does not identify himself
Actually, even some  of the software that cane  from a source is often harmful.
Look at this story:
The Coming Software Apocalypse - The Atlantic
Quote

The 911 outage, at the time the largest ever reported, was traced to software running on a server in Englewood, Colorado. Operated by a systems provider named Intrado, the server kept a running counter of how many calls it had routed to 911 dispatchers around the country. Intrado programmers had set a threshold for how high the counter could go. They picked a number in the millions.

It does not have anything to verify itself. Nor does it have anything to prevent  malware from infecting it.

Hi am having laptop problems, my laptop will play videos with no problems at all, but when I open kodi &AMP; play videos from my addon the screen stays LIKE its paused & the counter COUNTS like the video is PLAYING normal! Any ideas? What are tyr specifications of your computer? This can happen dependong on how much RAM you have.

At work yesterday a coworker pointed out that I guess some places are putting in phone charger vending machines. In one funny photo there was the vending machine there plugged into the wall and on the floor plugged into same outlet someones phone with its charger getting a free charge. So funny that they dont hide access to the power to bypass paying.

Funny that they dont secure your phone, you have to stand there and wait for 30 minutes. 

I havent seen any of these yet. Last time in an airport people have stuff plugged into any outlet they can find as well as airport had in place USB power plugs at bar tops to connect to for free.

Myself I keep two 5000mAh battery packs on hand charged so i can charge my phone or tablet which has a low current and tablet higher current option or both at same time and no having to find an outlet anywhere or plug into a questionable free USB power that could be a data hack connection if planted somewhere for people to think it belongs there for all to use. 

I had some pocketjuice chargers but they were only good for 1 phone charge or partial tablet charge at 2200mAh. These other shen zhen 16wms126 5000mAh battery bank chargers fit better in my pockets and I like the LED display that shows 0 thru 100% to know how much charge is left or if its FULLY charged or not vs just primitive LED Bar for 25/50/75/100% charge.

 A guy at work has a 22,000 mAh the size of a large scientific graphing calculator but I have read about many of these with ( exaggerated ) mAh RATINGS so i have avoided the larger ones that might just contain a battery that is 10,000. I bought one of these 5000 mAh to test it out first as for the blue digital LED display was a selling point initially. When happy with one of these acting like the charge life of two of my 2200mAh chargers and able to charge 2 devices at same time I then bought another for $10 because it seemed to be true to 5000mAh and my Tablet would charge from it without battery bank getting hot from heavy current draw like the OTHERS I have.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Here is another idea.
How to Use AA cells to charge your phone.
Do a search on the above and find videos and vendors.
You can find a thing on Amazon under $5 that will hold four AA cells and has a USB connector. You have to buy the AA batteries.
Also on eBay.


I bought one of those at our local Dollar store for $1.00 out of curiosity. It takes two AA batteries and has a circuit that takes 3 VDC and regulates 5 VDC from a interesting chip. Probed around on the chip with my oscilloscope and its the coolest chip, but its not cost effective to burn through AA Batteries to charge a phone. Additionally the chip runs rather warm in this voltage ramp process. I figured I would use it as a final drain from weak AA batteries to give a phone a small charge before tossing them out but by the time AA batteries start to dive in health they dive pretty quickly with conversion process of a chip that ramps up voltage at a lower voltage with heavier current cost.

What you say is true.
The value of the gadget is when e you have no recourse.
The old school carbon-zinc cells are very cheap in sold  bargain stores. Documentation on the carbon-zinc cells show they have a log shelf life for the cost. You  might buy a lot of them and keep them in you emergency kit. When you factor the cost, shelf life and yield, it  starts to make sense.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc%E2%80%93carbon_battery
The above article does not clarify that the carton-zinc does shelf life better if you consider the low cost as a factor. But it does say:
Quote

Continual improvements were made to the stability and capacity of zinc–carbon cells throughout the 20th Century; by the end of the century the capacities had increased fourfold over the 1910 equivalent.[1] Improvements include the use of purer grades of manganese dioxide, better sealing, and purer zinc for the negative electrode. Zinc chloride cells (usually marketed as "heavy DUTY" batteries) use a paste primarily composed of zinc chloride, which GIVES a longer life and steadier voltage output compared with ammonium chloride electrolyte. Manufacturers must now use more highly purified zinc to prevent local action and self-discharge.

I keep two 5000mAh battery packs on hand charged so i can charge my phone or tablet which has a low current and tablet higher current option or both at same time

...
The AA pack chargers seem like a plausible solution for me since I can buy AA batteries to put in them almost anywhere.

Some of the itsy bitsy PC designs are based on ARM chips, which do not readx86 code. Some recent exceptions. But Intel has scaled down its CPU power USE to allow makers to build some very small x86 devices  that require t an external monitor.

PC Mag did this bit:
https://www.pcmag.com/roundup/358859/the-best-windows-micro-desktops
The lump together all kinds of things. Some are the very small kind.
One is:
Quote

Intel Compute Stick CS125 Computer with Intel Atom x5 Processor and Windows 10 (

you can buy it for  $25. Huh? A $26 PC with Windows 10?  Hard to understand!

Bring the Internet of Things (IoT) to life with the power of Windows 10 IoT Core. If you're new to IoT Core, we'll help you get started. And if you're looking to bring a device to market, we'll show you how to commercialize it.

Ok, so if SOMEONE sent you promotional USB and chocolate, what would you do?FORMAT the USB and THROW the chocolate out...throw them both out.Go to the Beach...do we have a WINNER yet ? ?not exactly enthusiastic about promotional goods.... I like the eye-patch. Is it available?

Hey guys, I have a Blackweb keyboard, yeah, I thought the brand name was pretty funny too

I got the first one from a garage sale - I love garage sales, you should see some of the garages that I've gotten....
It didn't work well but being a Walmart brand they exchanged it no problem for me.  I'm actually really impressed with this keyboard.
It has good weight to it and doesn't slide on the no slip feet, the backlighting is nice and SHOWS through the keys
It even has a braided sleeve for the cable, which is a bit redundant on a keyboard, but a nice feature none the less

One thing is really bugging me though, I can't seem to find out who makes it for them.  It doesn't come with a manual so the programmable feature is a bit tricky to figure out.
I thought I was making a macro and it turns out I was just disabling my 'R' key, fortunately a quick reconnect solved that.

Has anyone got any ideas who makes this?

This is the one I have https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/blackweb-programmable-gaming-keyboard/6000196792502
I'd guess that it is bought from one of any number of chinese manufacturers.

The overall design looks somewhat similar to some of the ones on Amazon, this one for example, which has a few differences and additions but seems to have the overall "look" down, including the programmable features. Chances are they may come from or at least use some of the same components.

It looks like the Blackweb has an "Fn" key. according to the amazon listing, Fn+Esc changes lighting modes-  so if that works for you it might be that the other features work similarly too, which might give you something to look for trying to find documentation.Nope, not that one.  The software and key assignments for lighting and macros don't match up either.

  Just checked the specs on it and the weights are way off too, I'm not sure about the dimensions though.  It's possible that it's a variant of it. 
After looking at Amazon for another one that might be similar I've realized two things

1  There are entirely too many keyboards on the market
2  I'm now crosseyedIf there's an FCC # on it run it thru the googler...FCC?  Not sure what that is, unless you mean the goobermint agency
I'm not sure how to find one for it, when I got this one it wasn't available in the US - apparently Canada was the test market for it

Would anyone in the US mind making a trip to Walmart to look at one for me?I'm coming up empty as far as CDIC or FCC NUMBERS, aren't those only assigned to wireless devices?

  Not sure why I said CDIC, I meant the CRTC  FCC numbers apply to anything that can transmit Radio Frequencies, which applies to most electronics. But, of course, being in Canada it's very possible a device won't have one.

Canada's equivalent would be an IC number, but those are only needed in devices which intentionally transmit radio frequencies (stuff with wifi or bluetooth or whatever), and even then there are a lot of exceptions- oftentimes on things like wireless keyboards and mice you might just find "Canada 310" or "Canada 210" which is shorthand for the Canadian Radio STANDARD Specification code which makes the device license-exempt, or it will just SAY it complies with ICES-###.

An alternative might be to try to find the VendorID from the USB information. something like "NirSoft's USBDeView" should let you see the VendorID and ProductID easily, (or you can use Device Manager) then you can take that Vendor ID and see what it corresponds to  on sites like this one, and possibly get pointed in the right direction, as the VendorID may likely still point at the original device electronics it was based upon.



That's a great idea BC, thanks for giving me some direction with this

  I did look at the ICES number, it's very helpful - my keyboard complies with the standards for an external thermostat - only in Canada... 
And i'll be strollin to WallyWorld next day or so...Post a pic and i'll have a looksee...Thanks Patio, there's a link to the keyboard in the first post, down at the bottomSo you want me to go thru all that work to get nback to the original Post ? ?

      I'll cheer you on

Scroll that mouse wheel, you can do it, don't give into the cramps....Is that pic with the backlights on ? ?...or just the TRIM ?That's one of the backlight colors

Hiroshi Amano, gallium nitride and the future.
Gallium nitride
This is other, but not off topic. It is RELEVANT to EVERYTHING.
(This is a LONG story. It runs for the 1990s up to this year and into the future.)

This kind of technology is hard to understand. We have become accustomed to the present limitations of materials like silicon, copper and aluminum. These materials have limits that appear to be insurmountable. Researchers BELIEVE that esoteric  materials can improve electrical performance and thus open the door to technology that has not been developed before.

Future computers will use materials that presently are in just the laboratory as prototypes. Specifically, gallium nitride (GaN)  technology will replace or supplement silicon in high-speed high performance computer chips.

But there  is a much broader aspect. Moving away from silicon with have impact on other arias not directly related to computer chips.

Electric vehicle s can benefit  with  a technology that will help make more powerful and safer storage devices  and motors.

Space rockets for interplanetary travel will come sooner with the use of gallium nitride technology.

Medical research will also advance with the new technology.

Hiroshi Amano, a professor from Nagoya University who was awarded the 2014 Nobel Prize in PHYSICS, is developing together with other researchers a remote power supply system that sends energy to distant places using electromagnetic waves.

Need some proof. Think about LED lamps. These are so much more efficient than other types of  lamps that produce visible light.

Amano and his team have utilized the technology of crystallizing gallium nitride (GaN) to developing the blue light-emitting diodes  that won Amano his Nobel Prize.
 
http://www.cetusnews.com/news/Nobel-winner-Hiroshi-Amano-and-his-team-tap-gallium-nitride-technology-in-bid-to-transmit-power-wirelessly-from-a-distance-.HJZ67VTtVz.html

https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/news/science/how-blue-leds-ushered-in-a-white-light-revolution/article10010956.ece

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshi_Amano

https://patents.google.com/patent/US5239188A/en

Anybody please help explain this. Use  simple layman terms. Tell how does it work? What can we expect? And when will it improve our lives? Or will it? 

Pretty cool that I shipped back a flawed with artifacts video card that I bought cheaply $29.99 on rebate XFX AMD Radeon HD 6570 that only had 64-bit 1GB of DDR3 and the replacement XFX AMD Radeon HD 6570 videocard was a better 128-bit 2GB DDR3 card. Not sure if they did this as a sorry and here have the better card that we have in stock or by accident but very cool!

SEAGATE did something similar for me once where I shipped back a 120GB Hard Drive that died after 2 years with clunk of death and the replacement was a 160GB Hard Drive that is still going strong. I contacted Seagate to thank them and they said no PROBLEM and it was because they didnt have a 120GB in stock to send me an exact replacement so they gave me the next larger hard drive in stock as a 160GB replacement.

Free upgrades to better is always welcome 

Too bad not a high end replacement like a Radeon RX 580  If that happened my jaw WOULD DROP like a child on christmas morning in SURPRISE.

I dated someone two years ago, who my Mom didn't like.  She seemed to be unhappy and ANGRY about me being with her as a result of a difference in values.  I unknowingly logged into my FB account from my computer.  Around the time that I had told my Mom about my crush, it seeemed that she distanced herself from me and ultimately deleted me on social media.  We live in separate areas of the country now.  My initially acted "supportive" of me when I got ditched, but she is a very manipulative and phony person.  How do I know if she got in my account and made it look like she defriended me by defriending her and making her think I ditched her as FB chat was really our only means of communication at the time for whatever reason, we just didn't text/call each other and used FB instead.  Also, how could I tell if my mother sent messages to her in order to keep her AWAY and then deleted them to make it look like it was me sending them WITHOUT me realizing it.  It has been two years, and I still think about her everyday.  My Mom has been a very devious, cruel, and generally heartless person so I would not put this past her.  How can I determine if she didn't actually ditch me and this?  If I don't get an answer here, I will Facebook and ask them to retrieve deleted messages and/or activity from my activity log and get to the bottom of this.  I do not trust my hostile and verbally abusive and severely mentally ill mother, and I fundamentally don't believe that she 'ditched' me.  I think about this woman every single day, and it has been years.  In my bones, I KNOW that she did not ditch me like that, but I need HELP in proving this.  But in my bones, I know that someone did this, and I can only think of this scenario.  The traffic would have come from my network most likely, given this scenario.unusual topic for a computer help forum admittedly....

you could of course just ask her, but that SEEMS fractured at best.
in short, you are not going to know with any more certainty than you already claim.
if FaceBook is willingly (care factor?) and capable (do they keep 2 years worth of data?) then they obviously would be a better resource to approach than PCHF.Stalker in the making. Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 24, 2018, 04:20:05 PM

Stalker in the making.

Have you ever heard of an app to Connect 10/100 LAN ADAPTER to smartphone running on androidSuch an App would be SPECIFIC to a hardware device. There is no generic app that lets you use just any hardware to make a LAN CONNECTION.

Typically all Android devices use either wireless 802.11x or Bluetooth to make a co0nnection to a network.  Direct hardware connection is RARE, I think.

But i don't know everything. 
Google this:
LAN to Smartphone adapter at Walmart

It has been awhile since I visited Walmart. Now they have everything.

Your FAMILY and fiends might CONSIDER leaving Facebook and finding another social media site to exchange PHOTOS and personal news.
(Unless you are living in a very remote village, you must have heard about the big TROUBLE Facebook is having.)

Here is one place that has a list of alternatives.
What are the best alternatives to Facebook?
The review is fro 1and1, which is a site web site t has well researched documents and reviews. Worth reading. 

Another:
https://www.rd.com/culture/10-social-networking-sites-that-could-replace-facebook/
What do you think?

Help!
I have never used the VM thing.   

I watched a you Tube video and I thought 'I can't be that difficult'.
Well, I found out. I am lost.


The host Windows XP SP3 with updates
The VM Virtual Box ver. 4.2.36

The Windows 98SE install CD is in drive I:
The VM can not boot the install CD.

It says the drive is empty, but it is not!   

What did I skip? 
You ahve to appropriate configure the CD-ROM drive in the settings for the Virtual machine, Under Settings->Storage and with the CD-ROM drive selected in the list, there is a combobox on the right indicating the guest attributes- what the Virtual system sees. You want to click the button to the right of that combobox, which will allow you to map that Virtual drive directly to an actual CD-ROM drive (or an ISO image file).Thanks for the help. I didn't know that.
Sounds goo.
So maybe I might  use a ISO file?
That would make the install faster, -right?    QUOTE from: Geek-9pm on March 24, 2018, 10:25:01 PM

So maybe I might  use a ISO file?
That would make the install faster, -right?   

Windows 9x is not officially supported by VirtualBox team, which means, that it lacks Guest VM Additions, and it runs slowly, because VirtualBox is not optimized to run Win 9x.

Most CD-ROMs available for Windows 95/98 are not bootable, which means, that you must boot from DOS floppy, install DOS first and only then install Windows 95/98.
*It does require DOS skills*
Official bootable CD media is starting from 98SE. So if you're newbie, you should use Windows 98 SE bootable CD.

Version 4 is no longer supported.

Trying to find a key card lock for a regular room door not one that uses rfid cause, seems like more of a hassle

To install. If I can't find a key card lock ill just get the numeric one I seen at Wal-Mart from brinksYou are making a broad assumption.
RFID tags are good and cheap. A LOT has TAKEN place in the past few years.
What have you found at Wall Mart?


Just the Bruins numeric. Digital dead bolt 2780-119This is for your house?
What do you need and what do you want?

Ordinary houses use ordinary mechanical key locks which are very economical, EASY to install and  have a fair level of security when installed correctly. The downside is that if you loose a key you may have to re-key all locks and issue new keys to everybody. That gets to be more expensive that the lock itself.

For commercial users where a large number of people are going to use a building for a short time, some kind of disposable or reusable key is desirable. Also, other institutions may need reusable keys or a lock with a code entry. Like a jail or a warehouse or any place where there is a need to have a lot of keys that have to be renewed often. For example, the county fairground might switch over to  a form of electronic lock to allow frequent changes in of a large number of keys.

RFID is becoming the CHOICE for its flexibility. The key can be either a card or a key chain dongle, or both. The door lock is privy, but the keys are very cheap and can be programed by  an trustee who has no technical background.

Expect to pay $100 and up for each RFID door lock. Amazon has a selection.
Its a place I live at. Potentialy, be my house if I can convince the owner to leave it to my future WIFE.

I want a lock that's kid proof an able to keep other people out cause, of the expense furniture an other items. I'm not to worried about cost long as its not like $400 to $600 Quote from: bob1286 on March 16, 2018, 11:13:17 AM

...
I want a lock that's kid proof an able to keep other people out cause, of the expense furniture an other items. I'm not to worried about cost long as its not like $400 to $600

Hello  -
I am using Windows  7  and Google Chrome. I get my mail "imported from IE".  I receive a lot of e-mails  and soon my trash folder has a lot of trash.  The only way I know to clear my trash is to delete them 10 at a time.  Is there a way to clear the trash folder with just one click?  Thanks for your time.   BobAre you talking about the recycle bin in Windows? If so, it's the same as it's always been. Right-click on the icon and select "empty recycle bin".You should be able to do that with 1 clik in your e-mail app....IE is a browser...what do you use for e-mail....I:E....Yahoo.... Outlook ....gMail ? ?oops - sorry, my mistake oops - sorry. My mistake  Hello   -
I was afraid I was not going to explain my problem very well.  At one  time I used Internet explorer but I had some problems so I switched to  Google Chrome.  I was using IE for my mail.  When I switched to Chrome I  get the mail by clicking on a space "imported from IE". this causes "Suddenlink My Account -Email" to appear.  Clicking  on that and my mail appears. There is also a PLACE "Trash".  When I read my mail and delete it it goes to trash.  I can delete the trash folder 10 e-mails at a time.  What I want is the ability to dump the trash at one time.
Did I make it any plainer?  Thanks     BobPatio  -
My mistake !!! I do not know how my post got where it is.  Please MOVE iit where it belongs.  Thank youonline email apps (the sort you use within a browser) only SHOW 10 or 20 or whatever items at a time.
so you can only delete that many on one swoop.
they do however have a Settings, or the cog symbol, or something that allows you to change the number of displayed items per screen.
from memory Outlook.com (Hotmail) lets you show 100, I think Gmail can show 200 and some only allow a 50 items/screen limit.

so find the setting and change it to the maximum possible.  but I doubt if you'll be able to show them all if you have 100's and 100's.
you may just have to empty the Trash more often or maybe there is a setting to skip the Trash altogether and always delete items permanently.I found this which is suddenlink's online reference for their webmail.

Quote

To delete messages from your webmail account, follow these steps:

1.    Click the checkbox next to the message you would like to delete.
2.    Click the DELETE button at the top of the INBOX or at the top of the message window if you are in the email itself.
3.    This will move the message to the TRASH folder.
4.    To see a list of emails in your Trash, click the Folders button in the LEFT column and click on the Trash link when it appears in the window.
5.    To permanently delete messages from your Trash, click the EMPTY TRASH button at the top of the Trash window.

This link will tell you how:
https://www.greenbot.com/article/2923927/how-to-restart-your-android-phone-into-safe-mode.html

I would explain it myself but the page reloaded twice when it was all typed out and I did not want to re-type it all a third time.This doesn't work with my LG Stylo 3 phone. 

Quote

I would explain it myself but the page reloaded twice when it was all typed out and I did not want to re-type it all a third time.

I have Dell Optiplex from 2004 was wondering how much current the box draws there's just mother board power supply and hard DRIVE running with a few fans, seen on an older computer from before 2000 on the sticker it states 6 amps. Unless I drag it to the shop to plug into power meter I have no idea I know the 15" CRT MONITORS all state 1.5 amps draw and seems like a monitor would need more power than the desktop.The current stated on the sticker is more of a theoretical maximum that it would draw, it'll usually draw nowhere near that.  The best thing to do is just get one of those cheap plug in power meters and use it to get a proper measurement.  Also bear in mind that the amount of power that it draws will vary based on how much load is on it, you'll pull a fair bit more power when the machine is doing something computationally intensive compared to when it is sitting at idle.One can buy a low-cost digital voltmeter from Walmart. About $10.
You will need to make a DIY jig to measure  current flow.

Alternatively, you can get a clamp on type.

Search for Digital Clamp Multimeter AC DC

Why do you need to know?

Quote from: Geek-9pm on March 29, 2018, 05:03:26 PM

Why do you need to know?

Sometimes my ipad mini 4 cannot connect to the WiFi but my PC Laptop is good. Can someone help me for the solution.
Thank you very much.
John go to Settings > General > Reset and click Reset Network Settings.
you'll have to re-configure your wifi settings.


I've had success with this before on my iPad Mini 4 as well when it would not connect to the network which I knew I was typing in the CORRECT key. I had this problem with my first mini that I could only connect to 5ghz band and use around the house. While I could also connect to the 2.4ghz band it had to be right next to the router. It was as if the 2.4ghz antenna was broken. Got another mini and all is fine Quote from: stream26 on September 15, 2017, 02:28:22 PM

I had this problem with my first mini that I could only connect to 5ghz band and use around the house. While I could also connect to the 2.4ghz band it had to be right next to the router. It was as if the 2.4ghz antenna was broken. Got another mini and all is fine

But what about solving the problem of him and mine? How can I buy a new one?

BigEli • 8 years ago

I bought a Wi-Fi Catcher 10 dBi Patch/Panel Laptop/Netbook Antenna for my new Ipad ........The internal antennas suck..... Hooked the Wi-Fi Catcher antenna up by any USB ADAPTER......Solved the problem for under $25.00 +12.00 for the Adapter...Brother, I pick up the Neighborhood over on the next street in Wi-Fi with this antenna.Ipad and a Wi-Fi catcher antenna is like Cake to a fat kid...

I have a phone running Android 5.1, and something strange is going on. There is an Android system file that is com.mplore.ads.popup , or at least says it is an Android system file. It is 6.63 MB. It says it is on the SD card with that greyed icon, yet I do not have a SD card in the phone. I just saw it a few minutes AGO. One or two days ago, not there. Huh. Please help! Storage info available if you need it. Oh, yeah, I downloaded a AP from the Google Play Store called System Repair 2018 to see if I could free up storage with it four or five days ago, ran it seems day, had good ratings. Also a partial RUN. Help!Did you try removing that app and restarting the phone ? ?...I would.I removed the app earlier today, restarting now.As far as good ratings for APPS go many developers have people SPAM good reviews en mass'I just restarted the phone, checked, it's gone.Kewl Beans...welcome aboard.I Quote from: patio on March 30, 2018, 03:55:37 PM

Kewl Beans...welcome aboard.

Kewl Beans...welcome aboard.

My wife has a LG lgl34 it displays

error boot certification verify

1300 1280 1290 error

Then goes black an tries BOOTING againIf you are happy to loose everything off the phone you COULD factory reset it. Google, lg lgl34c hard reset
For instructions.
I WOULD think with the errors everything is lost anyway and the phone is TOAST.
 I wasnt expecting to recover anything. Some times it generates a different code. Not sure how cause, I couldn't find the button sequences mentioned

Was poking around on Google Play to see what apps are on there to add to my tablet and crypto currency mining showed up next to a mining game. Decided to check into these. Read the reviews and many of them have warnings that the author of the software is skimming the earned crypto currency as well as others that appear to prey on people using there devices to mine and the people realize only when they GO to cash out that the tech support is non existent and whatever was earned with their devices processing and their electric bill was lost.

I found one that had good reviews because people said they were getting paid in the reviews without any problems. The software app is Ethereum Miner which pays a guaranteed payment in microEther. Decided to install this app to check it out out of curiosity. Ran it for 30 minutes and earned 163 microEther with HASH Rate showing real time of 3 to 7 TH/s ( 3 to 7 Trillion HASHES per Second ). Decided to see what 163 microEther is worth and it came out to $0.0000000640264 for 30 minutes of processing time where tablet wasnt used for anything else. Decided to see how much could be earned in a year at that rate of processing. Came up with $0.001121742528 . So If it ran for 10 years and complexity didnt change, which it will change, it would earn 1 CENT (USD)

If my math is correct in the conversion of microEthereum to Ethereum thats pretty pathetic. Additionally in my calculation cost of power consumption wasnt even added in. Its clearly in the negative for profitability. The $40 tablet doesnt even pay for itself to run like this.    Here is the site that shows current value and a conversion table towards bottom. https://www.ethereum-price.com/

Well while this was sort of worthless to run, it was entertaining for my 30 minute break. Additionally it makes me wonder if the people giving 5 star reviews even did the math to figure out how much they are losing or " they think they are earning" running this app. While my tablet is not the most powerful out there, the payout is extremely pathetic and doesnt come close to offset power consumption cost.

Lastly the app if you try to do anything else while its running it will crash it and lose where it left off, however you were connected to their cloud, so they just got that however long you crunched data until crash as free processing time for the app developer to earn money on the people who's devices crash out of the app but the data was uploaded to the cloud prior to crash. 

I thought Google had some sort of control to keep scam stuff off of their store. But maybe its not a scam if you can get 1 cent in 10 years returned to you while the developer made far more on your donated processing power. 

Google's App approval process is much  less restrictive. "Scam" apps generally only apply to fraudulent charges. Otherwise it is "user/Buyer beware".

Anything involving any cryptocurrency IMO deserves to be held at arms-length anyway.Anyone who thinks mining will yield a monetary find is delusional as well...and I've read electricity charges negate any potential earnings.The main thing with any crypto"currency" is that you have to get in early and get in fast. it's faster to get "coins" (or whatever their units are called) early on. As more people jump on board, it takes longer and longer to "mine" coins, and the value shoots up. At which point, people who bought into it earlier will cash out, allowing the value to fall a bit. And seeing the downward spike in price, speculators will jump on board, then the price will go up as that attracts more "miners"; the value goes up, some of them sell- the chain repeats.

by all accounts they are a speculative ponzi scheme. One thing about them that annoys me is that so often when I criticize them I am told I am simply "jealous" that I didn't get in early. The reason I didn't "get in early" is because I don't think it is ethical. If you cash out with thousands of dollars in profit, that's thousands of dollars that some other person either already lost, or is going to lose at some point, and it's just as likely that you can become one of those people for whom their "investment" was a wash. If you want your money to work for you you use an investment that gives stable returns, you don't go to a Casino.

I'm not really saying that the people who mine it are unethical or immoral, just that- well, I don't like the implications. Just Knaves exploiting Fools as usual, and I'd prefer to be neither to be honest.

At this point the draw is so large that you've got malware and website scripts and even apps that specifically seek to use your processor time to mine cryptocurrency for them.

The irony about the whole thing is that the entire reason that they never seem to be usable as a currency is because of their wildly fluctuating market value which is a direct result of there not being any sort of regulation, even though one of the popular bullet points about them is that they are unregulated and uncentralized. It's almost as if currency systems are centralized for a reason.

Basically, they are something of a modern version of Tulip Mania. Apparently I'm not the only one to make this connection- behold,  TulipCoinWhen bitcoin first came out, I avoided it like the plague myself due to assumptions and i didnt bother looking into what it was. I figured it had to be illegal and i wanted no part of an illegal project. Making money out of thin air by running your computer through complex mathematics to me just seemed extremely strange. Additionally nothing is free and how could running your computer to mine work to make money. Its insane that the bitcoins have gone to crazy amounts of money each of which its determined to be worth almost $7000 each now.

Looking further into the miner apps on google play, I noticed many have advertising and claim to be miners. Many of them look like watching ads will pay out a small fraction of a penny to you for each ad and others pay out 250 satoshis if you install an app and leave it running on device for at least 3 days. So they dont mine trying to hunt for bit coins, instead they claim to be miners but its advertisers paying a small fraction of a penny on each advertisement to you in fractions of a bit coin as satoshi's
The best mining story i saw recently was about the Russian scientists usung the super computer at a nuke plant to mine...WOW ... Good thing they got caught to stop this before another Chernobyl 

Only story I heard of recently was a MIT student using the colleges electric bill to earn money mining as seen here: https://qz.com/1160667/the-secret-lives-of-students-who-mine-cryptocurrency-in-their-dorm-rooms/

I suppose money can be made if someone is laundering money through electrons to raise an electric bill for someone else and get money out the other end in cryptocurrency.  Full Story... Quote from: DaveLembke on April 08, 2018, 09:54:23 AM

WOW ... Good thing they got caught to stop this before another Chernobyl 

Uh... I don't understand the association...

I am putting together an automated routine for my one server that has a MySQL database and I have been manually performing dailies on it in which I stop and start a service using CTRL + C to stop it and  starting it is a matter of running the EXE. In order to make this part of a scheduled task I need to pass CTRL + C to that console window -or- kill it some other way gracefully.

I have used Taskkill in the past to kill stuff forceably. Never used it to kill anything gracefully. Was curious if Taskkill /IM to target the application to end is graceful or a very destructive idea in substitution for CTRL + C?

I have Jitbit Macro Recorder that I can use to create an EXE to call that will pass a CTRL + C, but targeting this application has been a pain because its console location on the screen is not always in the same location to click and make focus as well as task manager under applications tab doesnt always have it listed in the same location to have the macro click and select it and use the Switch To button to set focus to that console window to pass the CTRL + C to it.

So looking for a way to do this safely without corrupting or nuking my database.

With Windows the way to "gracefully" terminate a program would be to send the appropriate exit message to the program's top level Window.

Taskkill will do this- if you open NOTEPAD, type some text, and then use TSKILL /IM "Notepad.exe" notepad won't close, instead, it will be as if you clicked the X button, and prompt you to save changes before exiting. compare that to /F, which will not extend such cordialities- it forces the process closed.

With applications/software that run at the console, Ctrl-C is the closest thing. for MySQL in particular, the MySQL process implements and sets what is known as a "ControlCtrlHandler"; this allows it to "SEE" Control-C signals and it can then say set a flag which tells anything it is currently doing to clean up and exit as soon as possible to close it. (for reference, Control-Break cannot be caught- this is why sometimes Ctrl-C might not do anything in a program, but Ctrl-Break does)


TSKILL doesn't do any of that for a console program. Since it's a console program it doesn't have a top level window so TSKILL sort of always acts as if you passed in /F, I think.

You might be able to use keyboard shortcuts in some way, however. For example pressing a letter in Task Manager will jump to the first process in the list that starts with that letter. if you type quickly, you can drill down. if you type "Microsoft Outlook" quickly enough it will go straight to the first Microsoft Outlook process. Using that you might have the macro type that full name, press the application key and press the accelerator for "Switch To" (I think it is S?) t oswitch to that program before passing in Ctrl-C.Thanks for the info BC. I never knew that MySQL had that clean up process of CTRL -C. I just been using it for years because somewhere I was taught to use it as the graceful ENDING of console programs that interact with MySQL databases.

I made some progress in pinning the console window to a set position on my desktop. In the properties of the console shell window I was able to pin it to X/Y coordinates and it gave option to save this position so that each time Windows sees this same program run it will place the console window in that position which is top left. Now that I got that behaving I can target it correctly with the macro. But I will just have to make sure that no other windows are open overtop of that or else it wont work and the macro will perform the CTRL-C action to whatever is the focus of last active window. The good thing here is that as long as I remember to close out of stuff and keep that console window open and not HIDDEN, it should work.

In my travels I was looking to see if there were any code examples of how to take focus of a window by name and pass keystrokes to it but I gave up when I realized I can just sort of cheat by using the macro program to automate all that and that's as easy as saying RECORD and doing the routine with keyboard and mouse recorded of my actions and then end recording and then compile that as an EXE.

Just had quite the laugh. This caught my eye on youtube and I was like ( WHAT? ). SOMEONE SPENT some money making a prototype board for this April FOOLS Prank.  My favorite parts of this is the blinking green LED on the video card for bling factor and the wind that is simulated as its running like a wind storm is passing through the OFFICE. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3iHV0NvLPI

This subject is not at all new. But to date there does not seem to be a easy way to avoid this malady. Maybe I have it. I spend too MUCH time trying to simply my passwords and I am forgetting which goes with what.
REFERENCE:
Password fatigue: mandatory changes may do more harm than good
Quote

Most office drones have had to deal with a job that requires them to keep changing their passwords l...
But ACCORDING to the US Federal Trade Commission's chief technologist, Lorrie Cranor, the strategy has some major holes.
"Unless there is reason to believe a password has been compromised or shared, requiring regular password changes may actually do more harm than good in some cases," Dr Cranor wrote ...
That point is supported by RESEARCH Dr Cranor conducted at Carnegie Mellon University. It found that users who felt the institution's password policy was annoying came up with passwords that were 46 per cent more likely to be guessed than those who supported frequent password changes.

Hello,

     As the introduction of meta-cognition in real-world is becoming more and more prevalent, what are your thoughts or concerns in regards to security risks/ exploitation's? I'm new to the IT world and am extremely interested in your thoughts in regards to this matter. I believe that it's an awesome WAY to gain ACCESS to secure/private DATA but, if exploited could affect the way we secure data entirely. From my understanding, meta-cognition is considered to be the most secure form of biometrics. If this is in fact the future of authentication how will this affect the way we do thing on a day to day basis in the next 10-15 years? "metacognition" is having thoughts regarding your own thoughts. I don't KNOW how you are applying that term to IT or IT Security nor can I find anything online that would suggest it has some tech-related definition.

The best I can think of is it being introduced as a concept for the purpose of training Security STAFF to be able to recognize potential security problems, but I don't see how it applies to authentication.

I am trying to clip an image from a drawing I put into INKSCAPE. It SAYS to draw a RECTANGLE around the area, then select object,clip and SET. Nothing happens no mater what I do. could this object be on a clipboard I don't know about?? I have tried copy PASTE, clip, duplicate....Any Ideas I have tried PDF,JPEG SVEG???