24217 + Interview Questions in Hardware in Hardware Page 1 InterviewSolution

1.	Solve : my PC cant detect my cd rom?
Answer» OH boy...I'm not SURE what to tell you at this point, because it looks to me like maybe motherboard problem. I don't want to be bad news bearer, so let me have a good NIGHT sleep, and we'll see, if my FRESH mind will figure something else by tomorrow.well, anyway, thanks for the big help!have a good sleep sir...Thank you sir broni...i just wanna thank you for all the help and information you have given me...i've finally figured out the problem...and now my computer is working again.... ....i've found out that the real problem was the HDD...i tried to connect my HDD to other desktop and the problem was the same...i reformatted it there and it worked...then, i tried to connect it back to my desktop and took out all the jumpers and configured the CMOS...at first, it doesn't work, i tried to put again the jumper to my HDD, as master boot...and it finally worked...thank you sir....Good news Thanks for posting back i've learned a lot from all your tips...at least the next i encounter this problem, and my technic wont work, at least i would have another idea how to fix it by using the tips that you have given me.... Stop by anytime thank you sir!!!!You're WELCOME

Discussion

2.	Solve : Haha Fire!?
Answer» I'd still get a new hdd and copy over the data to be safe. Most interesting Chortle of the month. Good new topic idea........COL Alienware Computer + Heat + Fire = extreme gaming !!! I guess you could fit it somewhere in hardware / games I still find it funny that the OP used the subject of "Haha Fire!". I get a mental image of a pyro with a flamethrower. Haha, ok, so i was whining to a bud of mine who didnt have as much on the line by trying new STUFF, and we thought of something, SINCE the button was melted, i decided to just cut the wires, and complete the circet myself...AND shabam it works FINE, CEPT it took like 5 mins to get all the hardware recognized again anyways, im glad to let you guys get a laugh at my expense. i might post some picks of my new power switch once i make oneI'm not laughing... I'm frightened. Ditto. Make sure the House insurance is paid up...Yeah, I kinda have to AGREE. the rents would be pissed..... Tell you what, as of yesterday I owe you a birthday present. Lets see what we can do about finding you some components that aren't sliced and diced, yes?

Discussion

3.	Solve : PC won't boot. CPU & GPU fan spins at hyperspeed....?
Answer» The thing is, the battery isn't keeping the SETTINGS alive. Every time I turn the pc off, after a short period it appears that the CMOS has reset itself (and I get that pc screen coming up). If I correct the time and date, and restart the PC straight away, it LOADS as normal (I'm guessing this is because there is still some charge left in the motherboard to remember the settings) I've changed the battery so it can't be that, is it possible that the battery holder is faulty? Quote from: MistaShiv on October 12, 2013, 05:39:27 PM 1. The thing is, the battery isn't keeping the settings alive. Every time I turn the pc off, after a short period it appears that the CMOS has reset itself (and I get that pc screen coming up). 2. If I correct the time and date, and restart the PC straight away, it loads as normal (I'm guessing this is because there is still some charge left in the motherboard to remember the settings) 2. I've changed the battery so it can't be that, is it possible that the battery holder is faulty? 1. You are doing the F10 (Save & Exit)? 2. No, you guess wrong. There's always power to the motherboard if the psu switch is on. 3. Are you sure the battery is good? Some of the no-name ones are bad out of the box. Battery holder is SOLDERED to the motherboard, there is nothing to GO bad unless you break it. Are you INSTALLING battery + side up?I believe I've fixed it. After inspecting the CMOS Battery I noticed it wasn't held in as securely as could be, so I lifted the metal contact (the one underneath the battery) up a little bit with some wire (I was careful). Also for the other contact, which is in the side of the holder, I 'wedged' a bit of cable tie to ensure that side is touching the battery as well. After entering the correct time and date and pressing f10 to save (I mentioned that I have been doing this a couple of posts ago), I'd restart the PC and it would work fine. And to test, I'd turn the PC off, drain any remaining power out of it (PSU switch OFF, and the front button pressed to release any remaining current) and then power it back up. Before, it would ask me to enter the CMOS settings again, but now it doesn't, it must have remembered them, i.e the battery is functioning as it should. I think when I took the CMOS battery out for the first time, I must have been a bit rough and bent the contacts inwards. Then when I replaced the battery, it didn't have proper contact and did not function. Hopefully my fix will last Thanks for reporting back. It's probably fixed now.

3.

Solve : PC won't boot. CPU & GPU fan spins at hyperspeed....?

Answer»

The thing is, the battery isn't keeping the SETTINGS alive. Every time I turn the pc off, after a short period it appears that the CMOS has reset itself (and I get that pc screen coming up).

If I correct the time and date, and restart the PC straight away, it LOADS as normal (I'm guessing this is because there is still some charge left in the motherboard to remember the settings)

I've changed the battery so it can't be that, is it possible that the battery holder is faulty?

Quote from: MistaShiv on October 12, 2013, 05:39:27 PM

1. The thing is, the battery isn't keeping the settings alive. Every time I turn the pc off, after a short period it appears that the CMOS has reset itself (and I get that pc screen coming up).

2. If I correct the time and date, and restart the PC straight away, it loads as normal (I'm guessing this is because there is still some charge left in the motherboard to remember the settings)

2. I've changed the battery so it can't be that, is it possible that the battery holder is faulty?

1. You are doing the F10 (Save & Exit)?
2. No, you guess wrong. There's always power to the motherboard if the psu switch is on.
3. Are you sure the battery is good? Some of the no-name ones are bad out of the box. Battery holder is SOLDERED to the motherboard, there is nothing to GO bad unless you break it. Are you INSTALLING battery + side up?I believe I've fixed it.

After inspecting the CMOS Battery I noticed it wasn't held in as securely as could be, so I lifted the metal contact (the one underneath the battery) up a little bit with some wire (I was careful). Also for the other contact, which is in the side of the holder, I 'wedged' a bit of cable tie to ensure that side is touching the battery as well.

After entering the correct time and date and pressing f10 to save (I mentioned that I have been doing this a couple of posts ago), I'd restart the PC and it would work fine.

And to test, I'd turn the PC off, drain any remaining power out of it (PSU switch OFF, and the front button pressed to release any remaining current) and then power it back up.

Before, it would ask me to enter the CMOS settings again, but now it doesn't, it must have remembered them, i.e the battery is functioning as it should.

I think when I took the CMOS battery out for the first time, I must have been a bit rough and bent the contacts inwards. Then when I replaced the battery, it didn't have proper contact and did not function. Hopefully my fix will last

Thanks for reporting back. It's probably fixed now.

Discussion

4.	Solve : Seeking gaming build assistance?
Answer» Quote I would try the card on a few PC's...run Speedtest.net on it and SEE if there is any drop off in connection SPEEDS...it may be fine with 1 busted antenna... The card runs fine, though I am personally USING a wired ethernet connection. I did find 2dbi antennas on Amazon, so I purchased them (2 in a pack for $5).

4.

Solve : Seeking gaming build assistance?

Answer»

Quote

I would try the card on a few PC's...run Speedtest.net on it and SEE if there is any drop off in connection SPEEDS...it may be fine with 1 busted antenna...

The card runs fine, though I am personally USING a wired ethernet connection. I did find 2dbi antennas on Amazon, so I purchased them (2 in a pack for $5).

Discussion

5.	Solve : Help with Toshiba Laptop?
Answer» MIGHT not be the MEMORY it might be full of DUST i recomend to CLEAN it but if not Quote from: computer 12 on March 04, 2012, 06:56:35 AM might not be the memory it might be full of dust i recomend to clean it but if not Quote from: Jobst on February 26, 2012, 12:15:32 PM The computer hasn't been used for over a year, so I made sure to clear out any dust by the vents. Definitely not a heat problem, that was another thing I had CHECKED, making sure it had room to breathe and felt it to make sure it wasn't hot. Nothing new was installed on the computer before it started doing this.

5.

Solve : Help with Toshiba Laptop?

Answer» MIGHT not be the MEMORY it might be full of DUST i recomend to CLEAN it but if not Quote from: computer 12 on March 04, 2012, 06:56:35 AM

might not be the memory it might be full of dust i recomend to clean it but if not

Quote from: Jobst on February 26, 2012, 12:15:32 PM

The computer hasn't been used for over a year, so I made sure to clear out any dust by the vents. Definitely not a heat problem, that was another thing I had CHECKED, making sure it had room to breathe and felt it to make sure it wasn't hot. Nothing new was installed on the computer before it started doing this.

Discussion

6.	Solve : No audio, even after replacing sound card. Hardware or software problem??
Answer» truenorth

Discussion

7.	Solve : bluetooth and wifi?
Answer» Good! You can either KEEP fooling around with the setup and drivers and all that stuff - OR - Just buy a standard WiFi USB gismo that has 64 bit drivers. Like the ones at most stores. The Bluetooth and WiFi RADIO are separate ITEMS inside hour motherboard. You can disable one and not the other, as per you documentation. Some LAPTOPS have separate lights for WI-Fi and Bluetooth. Others don't. On mine, I never can TURN off the Bluetooth.

Discussion

8.	Solve : Drive A Error system halt?
Answer» Best way is to borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater amd swap it in there...you'll know overnite if it's the culprit.Motherboard documentation can be found http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01635688&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&site=null&key=null&product=3867529#N31 although I dont see where it specifies the type of ROM. I went ahead and tried to reset the bios password, in what ended as a futile attempt. EDIT-Although, it does have "One SPI (ROM programming) connector " Is this helpful at all?Did you clear the CMOS settings according to the instructions given in the link you provided?Yes. Switched pins for 5-10 secs, then switched back. No results.The manual says there are two resets. One for CMOS, the other for password. Also, the HP web site indicates that what they call ROM is, if fact, programmable. There is a method to reprogram the "ROM" which may fix the check sum error and all other issues. The OP could contact HP and they can tell you where the details are found. The OP needs a good working floppy drive to re program the BIOS OM. EDITS: Same issue http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/BIOS-ROM-Checksum-error/td-p/60306 BIOS for MS-7548 motherboard http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&softwareitem=pv-73188-1 I am not sure if that will work. My HP is not the same . But the link above is for the board the OP says he has. Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 13, 2012, 03:55:51 PM Could you please give the model number of the PC or motherboard. He already did Quote from: The OP my motherboard (MS-7548). Sparse information from HP indicates that the "ROM checksum error" is not the same as the CMOS checksum error. To fix that "ROM checksum error"m one can: 1. Replace the motherboard. 2. Try to boot a floppy with the ROM recovery program 3. Some other repair or recovery method not well documented.* I did not find the exact information on the HP site. Other sources say that the "ROM checksum error" waits for the floppy drive. The floppy is to have the recovery program for that BIOS chip. I had an I Intel motherboard a few years AGO with that FEATURE. But I don't know if the OP 'motherboard has that feature. It is not something you often run into. * There is a gizmo to program the BIOS with no POWER to the motherboard. Without removing the chip.

8.

Solve : Drive A Error system halt?

Answer»

Best way is to borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater amd swap it in there...you'll know overnite if it's the culprit.Motherboard documentation can be found http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01635688&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&site=null&key=null&product=3867529#N31 although I dont see where it specifies the type of ROM. I went ahead and tried to reset the bios password, in what ended as a futile attempt.

EDIT-Although, it does have "One SPI (ROM programming) connector " Is this helpful at all?Did you clear the CMOS settings according to the instructions given in the link you provided?Yes. Switched pins for 5-10 secs, then switched back. No results.The manual says there are two resets. One for CMOS, the other for password.

Also, the HP web site indicates that what they call ROM is, if fact, programmable. There is a method to reprogram the "ROM" which may fix the check sum error and all other issues. The OP could contact HP and they can tell you where the details are found. The OP needs a good working floppy drive to re program the BIOS OM.

EDITS:
Same issue
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/BIOS-ROM-Checksum-error/td-p/60306
BIOS for MS-7548 motherboard
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/softwareDownloadIndex?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&softwareitem=pv-73188-1
I am not sure if that will work. My HP is not the same .
But the link above is for the board the OP says he has.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 13, 2012, 03:55:51 PM

Could you please give the model number of the PC or motherboard.

He already did

Quote from: The OP

my motherboard (MS-7548).

Sparse information from HP indicates that the
"ROM checksum error"
is not the same as the
CMOS checksum error.

To fix that "ROM checksum error"m one can:
1. Replace the motherboard.
2. Try to boot a floppy with the ROM recovery program
3. Some other repair or recovery method not well documented.*

I did not find the exact information on the HP site. Other sources say that the "ROM checksum error" waits for the floppy drive. The floppy is to have the recovery program for that BIOS chip.
I had an I Intel motherboard a few years AGO with that FEATURE. But I don't know if the OP 'motherboard has that feature. It is not something you often run into.

* There is a gizmo to program the BIOS with no POWER to the motherboard. Without removing the chip.

Discussion

9.	Solve : BIOS Update Failure?
Answer» Another thing you can try: It seems like a stretch, but I just read about someone who was having a similar issue. Turns out their router's date and time was not set. After setting it correctly, his motherboard quit resetting his date and time. Something else to check I guess.I am very much obliged to you for taking all this trouble to solve my problem. This morning I did the RTC RAM reset using the jumper, as instructed in the manual. I re-set only the date/time, saved and re-booted. As no passwords are used, it was LEFT blank ('no password entered' statement DISPLAYED automatically in the menu). I am keeping the power on till tomorrow for good good measure. Somewhere I read that keeping the power on for about 24 hours might do the trick. I don't know whether this is true, but it is worth a try. I will check the results tomorrow and post here. The PSU check has to be DEFERRED till then. I have no router. This is a plain home computer. Thank you very much, Best regards. Oh, is the computer not connected to the internet at all?Sometimes I get confused with the internet terminology. I thought you meant a computer network when you said 'router'. If you meant wireless modem to connect to the internet - certainly yes. I am always connected whenever I use the computer.Problem solved. I erased the RTC RAM again, using the jumper. At first it didn't work. I kept setting the the date/time over again. After the third time, the battery started SAVING it and the computer is now booting normally. I am glad I didn't try the BIOS update. Thank you for the help. Best regards.Good to hear!

Discussion

10.	Solve : So I did something stupid...?
Answer» how about "I flashed my BIOS with an EXCEL spreadsheet?" or "I flashed my BIOS and now I'm to embarassed to talk to it"There is a UK company that charges 24.99 UK pounds (38.90 US dollars) to reflash a soldered laptop BIOS chip, if you send them the motherboard, and 79.99 pounds (124.72 US dollars) if you send the whole laptop for them to DISMANTLE and reassemble, and they say email them first to see if the BIOS is supported. Other companies charge more to do the complete job, I have no reason to suppose these prices will not translate to other currencies reasonably well. If the BIOS is an SPI type (Serial Programming Interface) there may be an SPI header near the chip to which the repair company can attach a cable and an Eeprom flasher without unsoldering the chip. Quote from: patio on January 01, 2011, 09:05:43 AM Actually i PERSONALLY would be too embarrassed to admit i used a MAC flash on the BIOS... As Salmon suggested....come up with another line. I've actually posted this on Apple discussions looking for answers there too, I just 'technically' copied this post from there to here, I'd want to edit my main post again but the 15-limit EDITING time is rubbish. Here it is sigh : http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2633340&tstart=0 And to the other POSTERS about HOW exactly I did this, Ok. This was possibly the most stupidest thing I ever did... So yeah, here we go. I used 7zip and a few other progs. as the opening utility, I was quite tired and literally sleep-blinded at the time to know what I was really doing... I was trying to look for my downgraded BIOS Image I had from my USB stick I plugged into the Dell Mini. Ok here's what I did, I used the trackpad to move around the cursor (I should've used a mouse) But the auto-tap-to-click thing got it's way and I somehow must've double-clicked on the Mac BIOS (this BIOS was 'ripped' from another Flash Utility by Apple for their Macs). It actually wasn't an old Mac, I just found it out. It was named in something according to: MB#####. Possibly a dollar sign ($) was in there. After importing it in, I had assumed for the best, that nothing had changed and tried it anyways. The computer seemed to have a seizure after running it, so I didn't do anything until the next morning, the battery died (I didn't leave it plugged in) so I didn't know how much the computer suffered alive, whatever it did it Ruined the BIOS actually. And then comes the part where turning it on does nothing but beep... It's a little similar to this case: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGoIjrR2RFo Just foward a bit to the middle of the video, you'll see what I mean.

10.

Solve : So I did something stupid...?

Answer»

how about "I flashed my BIOS with an EXCEL spreadsheet?"

or

"I flashed my BIOS and now I'm to embarassed to talk to it"There is a UK company that charges 24.99 UK pounds (38.90 US dollars) to reflash a soldered laptop BIOS chip, if you send them the motherboard, and 79.99 pounds (124.72 US dollars) if you send the whole laptop for them to DISMANTLE and reassemble, and they say email them first to see if the BIOS is supported. Other companies charge more to do the complete job, I have no reason to suppose these prices will not translate to other currencies reasonably well.

If the BIOS is an SPI type (Serial Programming Interface) there may be an SPI header near the chip to which the repair company can attach a cable and an Eeprom flasher without unsoldering the chip.

Quote from: patio on January 01, 2011, 09:05:43 AM

Actually i PERSONALLY would be too embarrassed to admit i used a MAC flash on the BIOS...

As Salmon suggested....come up with another line.

I've actually posted this on Apple discussions looking for answers there too, I just 'technically' copied this post from there to here, I'd want to edit my main post again but the 15-limit EDITING time is rubbish.

Here it is *sigh* : http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2633340&tstart=0

And to the other POSTERS about HOW exactly I did this,

Ok. This was possibly the most stupidest thing I ever did... So yeah, here we go.

I used 7zip and a few other progs. as the opening utility, I was quite tired and literally sleep-blinded at the time to know what I was really doing...

I was trying to look for my downgraded BIOS Image I had from my USB stick I plugged into the Dell Mini.
Ok here's what I did, I used the trackpad to move around the cursor (I should've used a mouse) But the auto-tap-to-click thing got it's way and I somehow must've double-clicked on the Mac BIOS (this BIOS was 'ripped' from another Flash Utility by Apple for their Macs). It actually wasn't an old Mac, I just found it out. It was named in something according to: MB#####. Possibly a dollar sign ($) was in there.

After importing it in, I had assumed for the best, that nothing had changed and tried it anyways.

The computer seemed to have a seizure after running it, so I didn't do anything until the next morning, the battery died (I didn't leave it plugged in) so I didn't know how much the computer suffered alive, whatever it did it Ruined the BIOS actually.

And then comes the part where turning it on does nothing but beep...

It's a little similar to this case: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGoIjrR2RFo
Just foward a bit to the middle of the video, you'll see what I mean.

Discussion

11.	Solve : How are IP addresses determined??
Answer» Quote from: kpac on February 28, 2010, 02:36:30 PM Don't use proxies. Yeah admins and 'techs' tend to not like them because using a proxy kinda SAYS 'I'm hiding something'. Genuine forum users tend to have nothing to hide.The only reason I can think of why you would WANT to use a proxy would be logging onto a porn site. And then only if your are an elected official. Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 28, 2010, 05:57:00 PM And then only if your are an elected official. Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper FETISHES. Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 28, 2010, 05:58:56 PM Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper fetishes. Is this just theoretical, or from personal experience? Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 28, 2010, 06:08:03 PM Is this just theoretical, or from personal experience? Uh oh. I have said too much. Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 28, 2010, 05:58:56 PM Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper fetishes. Mmm was looking for an idea for this new website I was contemplating. Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 28, 2010, 06:08:03 PM Is this just theoretical, or from personal experience? It better be theoretical! Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 28, 2010, 05:58:56 PM Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper fetishes. You mean like Deviant Art? Normally hide ip process is good one, but must care about the good software to install the hide ip process... Also i too hide my ip address... Then you can check your ip search process from here http://www.whoisxy.com/ free of costs... We don't like spam here. Your site now has a further red WOT rating. Quote from: Cityscape on February 27, 2010, 11:20:07 PM I always thought each computer had its own IP address, but I have 2 desktops using the same internet from a wireless router and both have the same IP address. I'm confused . What determines which IP address a computer gets (internet, harware etc)? You can get your ip address by CLICKING this http://www.ip-details.com/ . It will show your ip address.

11.

Solve : How are IP addresses determined??

Answer»

Quote from: kpac on February 28, 2010, 02:36:30 PM

Don't use proxies.

Yeah admins and 'techs' tend to not like them because using a proxy kinda SAYS 'I'm hiding something'. Genuine forum users tend to have nothing to hide.The only reason I can think of why you would WANT to use a proxy would be logging onto a porn site. And then only if your are an elected official. Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 28, 2010, 05:57:00 PM

And then only if your are an elected official.

Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper FETISHES. Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 28, 2010, 05:58:56 PM

Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper fetishes.

Is this just theoretical, or from personal experience? Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 28, 2010, 06:08:03 PM

Is this just theoretical, or from personal experience?

Uh oh.

I have said too much.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 28, 2010, 05:58:56 PM

Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper fetishes.

Mmm was looking for an idea for this new website I was contemplating. Quote from: rthompson80819 on February 28, 2010, 06:08:03 PM

Is this just theoretical, or from personal experience?

It better be theoretical! Quote from: BC_Programmer on February 28, 2010, 05:58:56 PM

Or if your married and it's really deviant stuff, like Tarantula diaper fetishes.

You mean like Deviant Art? Normally hide ip process is good one, but must care about the good software to install the hide ip process... Also i too hide my ip address... Then you can check your ip search process from here http://www.whoisxy.com/ free of costs... We don't like spam here. Your site now has a further red WOT rating. Quote from: Cityscape on February 27, 2010, 11:20:07 PM

I always thought each computer had its own IP address, but I have 2 desktops using the same internet from a wireless router and both have the same IP address. I'm confused . What determines which IP address a computer gets (internet, harware etc)?

You can get your ip address by CLICKING this http://www.ip-details.com/ .
It will show your ip address.

Discussion

12.	Solve : Why do I only use hand to operater the touchpad of laptop??
Answer» Quote from: Mulreay on August 04, 2009, 10:08:05 AM The new Mac book allows two fingered control for scrolling which is handy. I believe the eePC has multi-touch too, but it's nowhere near as advanced as what Apple's got.a HEATSINK on plastic? hat seems kind of pointless. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 04, 2009, 10:28:13 AM I believe the eePC has multi-touch too, but it's nowhere near as advanced as what Apple's got. Maybe on the later models, but I know for sure it doesn't on the 4G and 8G models.Meanwhile there's been another abduction..... Quote from: BC_Programmer on August 04, 2009, 12:59:10 PM a heatsink on plastic? hat seems kind of pointless. You'd be surprised. My temperatures WENT from 75C before the additional cooling to 70C. Seems LIKE the OP hasnt come back yet but hard to call at this point.Is there an echo in here?Not if you're not listening there isn't.... M.I.A!

12.

Solve : Why do I only use hand to operater the touchpad of laptop??

Answer»

Quote from: Mulreay on August 04, 2009, 10:08:05 AM

The new Mac book allows two fingered control for scrolling which is handy.

I believe the eePC has multi-touch too, but it's nowhere near as advanced as what Apple's got.a HEATSINK on plastic? hat seems kind of pointless. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on August 04, 2009, 10:28:13 AM

I believe the eePC has multi-touch too, but it's nowhere near as advanced as what Apple's got.

Maybe on the later models, but I know for sure it doesn't on the 4G and 8G models.Meanwhile there's been another abduction..... Quote from: BC_Programmer on August 04, 2009, 12:59:10 PM

a heatsink on plastic? hat seems kind of pointless.

You'd be surprised. My temperatures WENT from 75*C before the additional cooling to 70*C. Seems LIKE the OP hasnt come back yet but hard to call at this point.Is there an echo in here?Not if you're not listening there isn't....

M.I.A!

Discussion

13.	Solve : Printer Reviews?
Answer» Very well could be. I shall endeavor to remain unprovoked in the future so as to lessen that likelihood,truenorth P.S. Darn this post has just advanced the thread to page 2 Nonsense... I wasn't attempting to discourage your informative posts or suggestions. Quote from: patio on January 08, 2013, 08:37:40 AM I predict a 3 page Post...til a printer is purchased... Just sayin. Ttruenorth has made a point. It is no longer true that you have to "jump through hoops" to get cheap refills. Even Staples and other brick and mortar stores sell refills at about half the price. The install the same the OEM does. On and earlier post I mentioned Kodak. If low-cost inkjet performance is the criteria, one must consider the Kodak line of inkjet PRINTERS. Quote Money Saving Printer Kodak C310 Kodak C310 At the lower price range lies the Kodak 30 line of printers. These have been promoted as one of the most efficient printers on the market and for their price range they absolutely are. With new cartridges as low as $10 apiece and being priced around $80, these all-in-one printer/scanner/copiers make great options for moderate home use. Comparable models from manufacturers such as HP, Dell, Canon or Lexmark in similar price ranges will cost you an extra 30-40% more per page. Outside of just efficiency, Kodak 's line of printers have received excellent reviews for their OUTSTANDING color and photo quality. The Kodak all-in-ones are also fairly inexpensive at under $130 and have more features than many other similarly priced printers. The link below takes you to Amazon. They claim 184 people have given personal reviews on one particular Kodak model that is selling for about $150. Which is even below the price for the similar HP printer I have. Of course, the prices are down now because we are over the buying season. Has the OP ruled out Kodak? http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-ESP-6150-All-in-One-Printer/dp/B00007AKDL patio, Of course i knew you were NOT trying to stifle my input whatsoever. I simply was (somewhat tongue in cheek ) really acknowledging your observation as being likely (after all look where we are now page 2). As i said i had believed i really had nothing more value added to say in this thread until i felt the O/P was not properly appreciating where society is in terms of marketing and product production today. One can adapt and modify or not that is a personal choice. Both approaches have consequences (desired or not). Where alternatives exist they can be tried but often result in compromises. IE. use pencils to eliminate the interaction and frustration of using printers. Quote from: patio on January 08, 2013, 08:37:40 AM I predict a 3 page Post...til a printer is purchased... Just sayin. I'm hitting "Unnotify" Quote from: patio on January 08, 2013, 08:37:40 AM I predict a 3 page Post...til a printer is purchased... Just sayin. Quote from: Salmon Trout on January 08, 2013, 11:09:38 AM I'm hitting "Unnotify" Just think. I only wanted a decent printer review website... You know, to reference any printers that I come across with.Dear OP. There is still a lot of ground to cover. Please narrow down the criteria. The little info you gave on first post was to the effect that you don't want Epson. That still leaves of wide range of choices. In general, the more popular printers are the better choice because of market economics. T There a re lots of reviews out there about popular printers. Just one of so many... http://reviews.cnet.com/best-printers/ You did not clarify what kind of printing you do. If you print over 2,000 pages per month, you can get a printer for free. Are you interested? If so, I have a deal for you., And no, I do not get a kick back. Just doing a public service. There is more happiness in giving. Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 08, 2013, 04:47:17 PM Dear OP. There is still a lot of ground to cover. Please narrow down the criteria. The little info you gave on first post was to the effect that you don't want Epson. That still leaves of wide range of choices. In general, the more popular printers are the better choice because of market economics. T There a re lots of reviews out there about popular printers. Just one of so many... http://reviews.cnet.com/best-printers/ You did not clarify what kind of printing you do. If you print over 2,000 pages per month, you can get a printer for free. Are you interested? If so, I have a deal for you., And no, I do not get a kick back. Just doing a public service. There is more happiness in giving. That's all I was after (your web link). Thanks for the assist. For some bizarre reason people seem to think that I'm looking for a printer recommendation. I just wanted a review reference source for any printers that I might come across. I shall put this in large letters so that everyone will get the point: I do not want you to recommend a printer to me. I'm not trying to be confrontational here but my goal seems to be causing confusion. The big red blue lettering is just to attract attention to this point. For example: Let's say that I find a printer on sale for cheap. I could then look up the printer on a review website and I may find out that it's a wonderful deal, or I may find out that the ink costs twice the price of the printer and not such a good deal after all. I just want pre-emptive notification of if I'm about to buy a lemon. Sorry for the long delay in my reply, I'm often KEPT busy with other more pressing TASKS, (hence why it takes forever for me to get anything done).What I generally do is find a couple of items that seem to fit my criteria and then Google the difference (ie, Canon XXXX vs HP XXXX). You'll then find multiple reviews and comparisons that are directly on point.

13.

Solve : Printer Reviews?

Answer»

Very well could be. I shall endeavor to remain unprovoked in the future so as to lessen that likelihood,truenorth
P.S. Darn this post has just advanced the thread to page 2 Nonsense...
I wasn't attempting to discourage your informative posts or suggestions. Quote from: patio on January 08, 2013, 08:37:40 AM

I predict a 3 page Post...til a printer is purchased...
Just sayin.

Ttruenorth has made a point. It is no longer true that you have to "jump through hoops" to get cheap refills. Even Staples and other brick and mortar stores sell refills at about half the price. The install the same the OEM does.
On and earlier post I mentioned Kodak. If low-cost inkjet performance is the criteria, one must consider the Kodak line of inkjet PRINTERS.
Quote

Money Saving Printer Kodak C310
Kodak C310 At the lower price range lies the Kodak 30 line of printers. These have been promoted as one of the most efficient printers on the market and for their price range they absolutely are. With new cartridges as low as $10 apiece and being priced around $80, these all-in-one printer/scanner/copiers make great options for moderate home use. Comparable models from manufacturers such as HP, Dell, Canon or Lexmark in similar price ranges will cost you an extra 30-40% more per page. Outside of just efficiency, Kodak 's line of printers have received excellent reviews for their OUTSTANDING color and photo quality. The Kodak all-in-ones are also fairly inexpensive at under $130 and have more features than many other similarly priced printers.

The link below takes you to Amazon. They claim 184 people have given personal reviews on one particular Kodak model that is selling for about $150. Which is even below the price for the similar HP printer I have. Of course, the prices are down now because we are over the buying season.
Has the OP ruled out Kodak?
http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-ESP-6150-All-in-One-Printer/dp/B00007AKDL
patio, Of course i knew you were NOT trying to stifle my input whatsoever. I simply was (somewhat tongue in cheek ) really acknowledging your observation as being likely (after all look where we are now page 2). As i said i had believed i really had nothing more value added to say in this thread until i felt the O/P was not properly appreciating where society is in terms of marketing and product production today. One can adapt and modify or not that is a personal choice. Both approaches have consequences (desired or not). Where alternatives exist they can be tried but often result in compromises. IE. use pencils to eliminate the interaction and frustration of using printers. Quote from: patio on January 08, 2013, 08:37:40 AM

I predict a 3 page Post...til a printer is purchased...
Just sayin.

I'm hitting "Unnotify"
Quote from: patio on January 08, 2013, 08:37:40 AM

I predict a 3 page Post...til a printer is purchased...
Just sayin.

Quote from: Salmon Trout on January 08, 2013, 11:09:38 AM

I'm hitting "Unnotify"

Just think. I only wanted a decent printer review website... You know, to reference any printers that I come across with.Dear OP. There is still a lot of ground to cover. Please narrow down the criteria.
The little info you gave on first post was to the effect that you don't want Epson. That still leaves of wide range of choices.
In general, the more popular printers are the better choice because of market economics. T
There a re lots of reviews out there about popular printers.
Just one of so many...
http://reviews.cnet.com/best-printers/
You did not clarify what kind of printing you do. If you print over 2,000 pages per month, you can get a printer for free. Are you interested? If so, I have a deal for you., And no, I do not get a kick back. Just doing a public service. There is more happiness in giving.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 08, 2013, 04:47:17 PM

Dear OP. There is still a lot of ground to cover. Please narrow down the criteria.
The little info you gave on first post was to the effect that you don't want Epson. That still leaves of wide range of choices.
In general, the more popular printers are the better choice because of market economics. T
There a re lots of reviews out there about popular printers.
Just one of so many...
http://reviews.cnet.com/best-printers/
You did not clarify what kind of printing you do. If you print over 2,000 pages per month, you can get a printer for free. Are you interested? If so, I have a deal for you., And no, I do not get a kick back. Just doing a public service. There is more happiness in giving.

That's all I was after (your web link). Thanks for the assist.

For some bizarre reason people seem to think that I'm looking for a printer recommendation. I just wanted a review reference source for any printers that I might come across.
I shall put this in large letters so that everyone will get the point:

I do not want you to recommend a printer to me.

I'm not trying to be confrontational here but my goal seems to be causing confusion. The big red blue lettering is just to attract attention to this point.

For example: Let's say that I find a printer on sale for cheap. I could then look up the printer on a review website and I may find out that it's a wonderful deal, or I may find out that the ink costs twice the price of the printer and not such a good deal after all.

I just want pre-emptive notification of if I'm about to buy a lemon.

Sorry for the long delay in my reply, I'm often KEPT busy with other more pressing TASKS, (hence why it takes forever for me to get anything done).What I generally do is find a couple of items that seem to fit my criteria and then Google the difference (ie, Canon XXXX vs HP XXXX). You'll then find multiple reviews and comparisons that are directly on point.

Discussion

14.	Solve : Strange red/blue dots appearing all over my screen.?
Answer» Nothing off the top of my head. SWAPPING it out would be the next LOGICAL step. We'll wait and see if one of the other guys or gals chimes in with a suggestion.Just wanted to say ty to those that helped Got a replacement card installed and things seem to be working well. Haven't had a chance to PLAY LoL yet since the servers are down but hopefully it runs well too. Thanks again .Your welcome.Wish it had TURNED out to be something other than as i stated at the outset that would not have seen you needing to spend money.Sometimes it cannot be avoided.truenorthGood to hear. I THOUGHT that might be it.

Discussion

15.	Solve : computer will not boot from proper device?
Answer» Quote i FORGOT to mention that my mobo has raid config. Now you tell us... Quote I went into fastbuild mode and it showed my harddrive on 1st array and it said functional If you only have one hard drive you shouldn't be using the RAID controller at all. RAID is for multiple hard drives. Here is an explanation of RAID: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID From your user manual http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/sock754/k8v_se_dx/e1872_k8v_se_deluxe.pdf This is a diagram of your motherboard Notice there are four SATA connectors there. Two of them are labeled SATA1 and SATA2 and the other two are labeled PRI_SATA and SEC_SATA. Serial ATA connectors (7-pin SATA1, SATA2, ) These next generation connectors support the thin Serial ATA cables for primary internal storage devices. That would be these two: RAID Serial ATA connectors (7-pin SEC_SATA, PRI_SATA) These Serial ATA connectors support SATA hard disks that you may configure as a RAID set. These two: I would make sure the hard drive is connected to SATA1. Since you say this is the exact same motherboard, it should boot. You may want to configure your boot order to start with the hard drive. This is covered on page 4-33 of the manual. If the board does happen to be slightly different than the one you had before and you want to run Windows XP, post back for instructions on how to get the XP disk to recognize the hard drive. It also should be noted that because you are using XP, the XP installer may not see a SATA drive. You may need to obtain a driver and when prompted by the Windows XP installer, provide the driver so the installer can see the drive. I believe this driver is obtained from the motherboard manufacturer.JJ 3000 it has always been connected to the primary sata, Connecting to sata1 and it will not even reconize HD. Primary 1 is for fast build. It says on fast build that HD is 1.0 stripe array 1 U6 status functional.. Fast build gives the option of config 2 harddrives to run as 1 or as 2 individual drives or as 1 but if 1 goes out the other still works. quaxo I tried running the mobo cd but it would not open. I tell you this is very perplexing because I can put in os cd and it goes thru the motions but when it gets to part where it will repair of download is when it says cannot detect HD, but it says HD is operational in bios and fastbuild mode. Im not computer ignorant but im not as knowledgeable as you guys so im sure there is SOMETHING im not doing right. Most likly if you guys had it hands on you could figure it out. OK the last time I had it in shop the guy told me he had to do a partition, now I know that you can partition HD in parts or as a whole so how can I do a partition on it. Bare in mind I cant open windows so how do I do a partition to make mobo boot from it without windows. Oh and jj3000 you said you can tell me how to make windows cd recconize hd. That would be great. This problem has been a challenge.Hi tstrek I have read thru all the replies and would like to suggest you try the drive in sata1 mode. Some versions of that via southbridge chip had a problem. I quote It seems that the problem is actually that the Southbridge chip on the motherboard (VIA VT8237) can’t handle SATA II drive speeds (300 Mb/s) – and that they don’t auto-negotiate down to SATA I speeds (150 Mb/s) check the jumpers for your harddrive on the label or at the website. the data should be OK and the drive should boot. Ff this is the problem, the solution would have been impossible to find without all the GOOD questions you answered . Lisa Quote Primary 1 is for fast build. What are you building? You do have only one hard drive, right? You shouldn't be trying to build an array. You shouldn't be using the raid controller at all if you only have one hard drive (last time I'm gonna mention this). Why do you think you have to build anything? Quote It says on fast build that HD is 1.0 stripe array 1 U6 status functional If you had looked over that link I gave you you would see that RAID 0, also known as striping, distributes data equally between TWO hard drives. You have to have at least TWO hard drives to make a striped array work. Striping will not work with only one hard drive. Quote Connecting to sata1 and it will not even reconize HD What do you mean? What is it? The XP CD? Does it not list itself in the standard CMOS features? Lisa_maree is right, by the way. The VIA VT8237 microchip has a problem with SATA 2 hard drives. If your hard drive is SATA 2 you will have to jumper it to run at SATA 1 speed. Okaaayyyy let me try this again. My HD has always been connected to the primary sata. Im my manual on page 2-23 it says that, by default the drive you connect to primary connector FOLLOWS the ATA 133/100/66/33 protocol as an indepentdent drive, not as a disk array. So im not trying to build an array that is just the connector I have to use. On page 2-24 of my manual it says, Hot plug support for Serial ATA drive and connections is not available in this motherboard. So if im reading it right the SATA connections will not work. If I connect to SATA 1 it will not even try to boot but simply say no hard disk. Come on peeps there has got to be a computer nerd out there that can tell me what to do! JJ3000 you said you can tell me how to make my XP CD reconize the HD, so how can I do that? If have to make a partion to make it boot from HD how do I do that with no windows? Now I know this has been a agravating problem for some of you but it is more so for me. Oh sorry for the late post I have been busy the last couple of days. Oh and thanks for all the support im getting. I was really suprised at how many have read this and the quick response. The XP CD will probably recognize the drive when you supply it with a driver...Hi Please confirm that you have jumped the drive to sata 1 speed of 150mbs as I said in my last post. What is your drive model and I will confirm whether this is done true software or a jumper. Lisa

15.

Solve : computer will not boot from proper device?

Answer»

Quote

i FORGOT to mention that my mobo has raid config.

Now you tell us...

Quote

I went into fastbuild mode and it showed my harddrive on 1st array and it said functional

If you only have one hard drive you shouldn't be using the RAID controller at all. RAID is for multiple hard drives. Here is an explanation of RAID:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID

From your user manual http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/sock754/k8v_se_dx/e1872_k8v_se_deluxe.pdf
This is a diagram of your motherboard

Notice there are four SATA connectors there. Two of them are labeled SATA1 and SATA2 and the other two are labeled PRI_SATA and SEC_SATA.

Serial ATA connectors (7-pin SATA1, SATA2, )
These next generation connectors support the thin Serial ATA cables
for primary internal storage devices.
That would be these two:

RAID Serial ATA connectors (7-pin SEC_SATA, PRI_SATA)
These Serial ATA connectors support SATA hard disks that you may
configure as a RAID set.
These two:

I would make sure the hard drive is connected to SATA1.

Since you say this is the exact same motherboard, it should boot. You may want to configure your boot order to start with the hard drive. This is covered on page 4-33 of the manual.

If the board does happen to be slightly different than the one you had before and you want to run Windows XP, post back for instructions on how to get the XP disk to recognize the hard drive. It also should be noted that because you are using XP, the XP installer may not see a SATA drive. You may need to obtain a driver and when prompted by the Windows XP installer, provide the driver so the installer can see the drive. I believe this driver is obtained from the motherboard manufacturer.JJ 3000 it has always been connected to the primary sata, Connecting to sata1 and it will not even reconize HD. Primary 1 is for fast build. It says on fast build that HD is 1.0 stripe array 1 U6 status functional.. Fast build gives the option of config 2 harddrives to run as 1 or as 2 individual drives or as 1 but if 1 goes out the other still works.
quaxo I tried running the mobo cd but it would not open. I tell you this is very perplexing because I can put in os cd and it goes thru the motions but when it gets to part where it will repair of download is when it says cannot detect HD, but it says HD is operational in bios and fastbuild mode. Im not computer ignorant but im not as knowledgeable as you guys so im sure there is SOMETHING im not doing right. Most likly if you guys had it hands on you could figure it out. OK the last time I had it in shop the guy told me he had to do a partition, now I know that you can partition HD in parts or as a whole so how can I do a partition on it. Bare in mind I cant open windows so how do I do a partition to make mobo boot from it without windows. Oh and jj3000 you said you can tell me how to make windows cd recconize hd. That would be great. This problem has been a challenge.Hi tstrek

I have read thru all the replies and would like to suggest you try the drive in sata1 mode. Some versions of that via southbridge chip had a problem. I quote

It seems that the problem is actually that the Southbridge chip on the motherboard (VIA VT8237) can’t handle SATA II drive speeds (300 Mb/s) – and that they don’t auto-negotiate down to SATA I speeds (150 Mb/s) check the jumpers for your harddrive on the label or at the website. the data should be OK and the drive should boot.

Ff this is the problem, the solution would have been impossible to find without all the GOOD questions you answered .

Lisa

Quote

Primary 1 is for fast build.

What are you building? You do have only one hard drive, right? You shouldn't be trying to build an array. You shouldn't be using the raid controller at all if you only have one hard drive (last time I'm gonna mention this). Why do you think you have to build anything?

Quote

It says on fast build that HD is 1.0 stripe array 1 U6 status functional

If you had looked over that link I gave you you would see that RAID 0, also known as striping, distributes data equally between TWO hard drives. You have to have at least TWO hard drives to make a striped array work. Striping will not work with only one hard drive.

Quote

Connecting to sata1 and it will not even reconize HD

What do you mean? What is it? The XP CD? Does it not list itself in the standard CMOS features?

Lisa_maree is right, by the way. The VIA VT8237 microchip has a problem with SATA 2 hard drives. If your hard drive is SATA 2 you will have to jumper it to run at SATA 1 speed.
Okaaayyyy let me try this again. My HD has always been connected to the primary sata. Im my manual on page 2-23 it says that, by default the drive you connect to primary connector FOLLOWS the ATA 133/100/66/33 protocol as an indepentdent drive, not as a disk array. So im not trying to build an array that is just the connector I have to use. On page 2-24 of my manual it says, Hot plug support for Serial ATA drive and connections is not available in this motherboard. So if im reading it right the SATA connections will not work. If I connect to SATA 1 it will not even try to boot but simply say no hard disk. Come on peeps there has got to be a computer nerd out there that can tell me what to do! JJ3000 you said you can tell me how to make my XP CD reconize the HD, so how can I do that? If have to make a partion to make it boot from HD how do I do that with no windows? Now I know this has been a agravating problem for some of you but it is more so for me. Oh sorry for the late post I have been busy the last couple of days. Oh and thanks for all the support im getting. I was really suprised at how many have read this and the quick response. The XP CD will probably recognize the drive when you supply it with a driver...Hi

Please confirm that you have jumped the drive to sata 1 speed of 150mbs as I said in my last post.
What is your drive model and I will confirm whether this is done true software or a jumper.

Lisa

Discussion

16.	Solve : lost 85gb hard drive?
Answer» What was the original reason for wanting to reinstall Vista? Did you do it yourself or did someone do it for you? It does look like you have an 80GB hard drive there. Is there any chance the drive could have been swapped out for another one? If I were you I would take the hard drive out and look at the label to make sure. Or you could click START and type devmgmt.msc into the search box and press enter. This will open device manager. In device manager click the plus sign next to disk drives to expand the list of drives. Upload another screenshot for us. Thank-You for your response, here is a picture of disk drives. Uploaded with ImageShack.usAfter googling 'fujitsu mhw2080bh' the result were http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&gs_nf=1&pq=fujitsu&cp=13&gs_id=121&xhr=t&q=fujitsu+MHW2080bh&pf=p&safe=off&sclient=psy-ab&oq=fujitsu+MHW20&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=1deb3a27a4d9b1ab&biw=1366&bih=655 Looks like you have a 80GB hard drive. Re-edit: Sorry, just done some more reading. They make 80 to 160 GB models. Are you sure you read the paperwork right? Here is your drive (80Gb): Fujitsu MHW2080BH 80GB 5400 RPM 8MB Cache 2.5" SATA 1.5Gb/s Notebook Hard Drive If the EXTRA hard drive has been deleted where would I go to get it checked and restored? Thanks for all your help. Quote from: debwins on July 03, 2012, 01:01:29 PM If the extra hard drive has been deleted where would I go to get it checked and restored? Thanks for all your help. There isn't an extra hard drive that has been deleted. You thought you had a 160 GB hard drive. You don't. You have an 80 GB hard drive. Quote from: reddevilggg on July 03, 2012, 08:21:57 AM Re-edit: Sorry, just done some more reading. They make 80 to 160 GB models. The model number says it is 80 GB. In that range of disk drives, the 3 digits between MHW2 and BH gave the drive SIZE, padded with a leading zero if under 100 GB thus: MHW2080BH MHW2100BH MHW2120BH MHW2160BH This is a Dell Inspiron 1520 Quote from: debwins on July 04, 2012, 11:49:27 AM This is a Dell Inspiron 1520 You already told us that. The screen shots you were asked to provide show a Fujitsu model MHW2080BH hard drive. This is an 80 GB hard drive. It may have had a bigger drive in the past, but 80 GB is what it has now. The Dell 1520 could be bought new with a drive size from 80 GB to 160 GB. If it had a 160 GB drive when new, that drive has been taken out and a smaller one put in. Quote from: debwins on July 04, 2012, 11:49:27 AM This is a Dell Inspiron 1520 The Service Tag will tell you exactly what was shipped by Dell to the original owner. www.support.dell.com Thank-You all for you help and support it's greatly appreciated.

16.

Solve : lost 85gb hard drive?

Answer»

What was the original reason for wanting to reinstall Vista? Did you do it yourself or did someone do it for you?

It does look like you have an 80GB hard drive there. Is there any chance the drive could have been swapped out for another one? If I were you I would take the hard drive out and look at the label to make sure. Or you could click START and type devmgmt.msc into the search box and press enter. This will open device manager. In device manager click the plus sign next to disk drives to expand the list of drives. Upload another screenshot for us.

Thank-You for your response, here is a picture of disk drives.

Uploaded with ImageShack.usAfter googling 'fujitsu mhw2080bh' the result were

http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&gs_nf=1&pq=fujitsu&cp=13&gs_id=121&xhr=t&q=fujitsu+MHW2080bh&pf=p&safe=off&sclient=psy-ab&oq=fujitsu+MHW20&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=1deb3a27a4d9b1ab&biw=1366&bih=655

Looks like you have a 80GB hard drive.

Re-edit: Sorry, just done some more reading. They make 80 to 160 GB models.

Are you sure you read the paperwork right? Here is your drive (80Gb):

Fujitsu MHW2080BH 80GB 5400 RPM 8MB Cache 2.5" SATA 1.5Gb/s Notebook Hard Drive If the EXTRA hard drive has been deleted where would I go to get it checked and restored? Thanks for all your help. Quote from: debwins on July 03, 2012, 01:01:29 PM

If the extra hard drive has been deleted where would I go to get it checked and restored? Thanks for all your help.

There isn't an extra hard drive that has been deleted. You thought you had a 160 GB hard drive. You don't. You have an 80 GB hard drive.

Quote from: reddevilggg on July 03, 2012, 08:21:57 AM

Re-edit: Sorry, just done some more reading. They make 80 to 160 GB models.

The model number says it is 80 GB. In that range of disk drives, the 3 digits between MHW2 and BH gave the drive SIZE, padded with a leading zero if under 100 GB thus:

MHW2080BH
MHW2100BH
MHW2120BH
MHW2160BH

This is a Dell Inspiron 1520 Quote from: debwins on July 04, 2012, 11:49:27 AM

This is a Dell Inspiron 1520

You already told us that. The screen shots you were asked to provide show a Fujitsu model MHW2080BH hard drive. This is an 80 GB hard drive. It may have had a bigger drive in the past, but 80 GB is what it has now. The Dell 1520 could be bought new with a drive size from 80 GB to 160 GB. If it had a 160 GB drive when new, that drive has been taken out and a smaller one put in.

Quote from: debwins on July 04, 2012, 11:49:27 AM

This is a Dell Inspiron 1520

The Service Tag will tell you exactly what was shipped by Dell to the original owner.
www.support.dell.com Thank-You all for you help and support it's greatly appreciated.

Discussion

17.	Solve : Wireless Mouse Issue?
Answer» Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 10, 2015, 09:30:50 PM No, you n are wrong. Mice are cheaper that motherboards. If I said that Mice were more expensive than motherboards, I would certainly agree that I was wrong. However, given that I've said absolutely nothing about motherboards, or suggesting buying a new motherboard, since the motherboard isn't even relevant, so I'm afraid I have to disagree. Not buying anything, and instead ISOLATING the actual problem is even cheaper. Quote It's the mouse. Testing one mouse on on two computers is not an acceptable verification. For a true test, you need at least five five computers and as meany mice. Now if four out of five mice failed on just one PC, you might say the PC is bad. But the done mouse that worked would be a piratical solution for the defective PC. I'm afraid there may be a miscommunication here. Very little of what you have suggested seems very logical. If you have a peripheral with an issue, and you are able to connect it to another system and the issue goes away, this is a incredibly strong indicator that the issue is unrelated to the DEVICE. Strong enough to rule out the device as a 'suspect'. If we apply your suggested logic to any number of peripherals we can see how silly it appears. If somebody has an issue with the monitor not showing a picture, but the monitor works fine with another system, following your logic they would need to test five computers and at least as many monitors to determine that the issue is not the monitor in question, which is of course ridiculous. Using a device on another system and verifying that it works is a perfectly well established and logical course of action in determining that the device itself is functioning properly. The root of the problem is the mouse can not reject ELECTRICAL (radio) interference coming from the motherboard. Better mice can. Weak mice don't. My logic is sound and it is for wireless mice, not for other peripherals. Other peripherals do not use radio frequency in close proximity to the computer. Retrofitting a motherboard that does not WORK with wireless mouse is a time-consuming endeavor. A manufacturing firm can do that kind of research, Burt for the average user the protocol is much to hard to carry out. Burt if the OP is a professional Electronic Engineer E or a super tech, and has the laboratory equipment, I will do a summary of the work and testing needed to clean up the motherboard. The cost for a single unit is more that the cost of a new computer. He will need a spectrum analyzer and a RF probe for UHF. Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 11, 2015, 12:06:11 AM The root of the problem is the mouse can not reject electrical (radio) interference coming from the motherboard. Better mice can. Weak mice don't. On what basis do you make the claim that the source is interference coming from the motherboard? You have posted a number of links; none of which would appear to substantiate what you are saying. WITHIN them there are people who fixed their problem by trying a different port; several others have fixed it by no longer using a mouse pad they were using, and there is a lot of speculation. Some of the posts in the linked threads are gibberish. "I believe it was my interface drivers causing system interrupts which were peaking my processors. ". Another of the links has the user describing that the issue was that they had the mouse sensitivity in control panel too high. None of the links you provided support the claim that this is interference from the motherboard. The Original Poster didn't even mention their Motherboard Model #. You are operating on baseless assumptions. Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 11, 2015, 12:06:11 AM The root of the problem is the mouse can not reject electrical (radio) interference coming from the motherboard. Better mice can. Weak mice don't. He will need a spectrum analyzer and a RF probe for UHF. I will see what our scope meter does at work I'm inclined to believe that this is a software/firmware issue as the interference is always after a protracted period of time. Then again if I really knew then I wouldn't be here. Quote software/firmware issue as the interference is always after a protracted period of time. Can you document the time periods? Also, can you reproduce this behavior in safe mode?

17.

Solve : Wireless Mouse Issue?

Answer»

Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 10, 2015, 09:30:50 PM

No, you n are wrong. Mice are cheaper that motherboards.

If I said that Mice were more expensive than motherboards, I would certainly agree that I was wrong. However, given that I've said absolutely nothing about motherboards, or suggesting buying a new motherboard, since the motherboard isn't even relevant, so I'm afraid I have to disagree. Not buying anything, and instead ISOLATING the actual problem is even cheaper.

Quote

It's the mouse.

Testing one mouse on on two computers is not an acceptable verification.
For a true test, you need at least five five computers and as meany mice. Now if four out of five mice failed on just one PC, you might say the PC is bad. But the done mouse that worked would be a piratical solution for the defective PC.

I'm afraid there may be a miscommunication here. Very little of what you have suggested seems very logical.

If you have a peripheral with an issue, and you are able to connect it to another system and the issue goes away, this is a incredibly strong indicator that the issue is unrelated to the DEVICE. Strong enough to rule out the device as a 'suspect'. If we apply your suggested logic to any number of peripherals we can see how silly it appears. If somebody has an issue with the monitor not showing a picture, but the monitor works fine with another system, following your logic they would need to test five computers and at least as many monitors to determine that the issue is not the monitor in question, which is of course ridiculous. Using a device on another system and verifying that it works is a perfectly well established and logical course of action in determining that the device itself is functioning properly.

The root of the problem is the mouse can not reject ELECTRICAL (radio) interference
coming from the motherboard. Better mice can. Weak mice don't.

My logic is sound and it is for wireless mice, not for other peripherals. Other peripherals do not use radio frequency in close proximity to the computer.
Retrofitting a motherboard that does not WORK with wireless mouse is a time-consuming endeavor. A manufacturing firm can do that kind of research, Burt for the average user the protocol is much to hard to carry out.

Burt if the OP is a professional Electronic Engineer E or a super tech, and has the laboratory equipment, I will do a summary of the work and testing needed to clean up the motherboard. The cost for a single unit is more that the cost of a new computer.

He will need a spectrum analyzer and a RF probe for UHF.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 11, 2015, 12:06:11 AM

The root of the problem is the mouse can not reject electrical (radio) interference
coming from the motherboard. Better mice can. Weak mice don't.

On what basis do you make the claim that the source is interference coming from the motherboard? You have posted a number of links; none of which would appear to substantiate what you are saying. WITHIN them there are people who fixed their problem by trying a different port; several others have fixed it by no longer using a mouse pad they were using, and there is a lot of speculation. Some of the posts in the linked threads are gibberish. "I believe it was my interface drivers causing system interrupts which were peaking my processors. ". Another of the links has the user describing that the issue was that they had the mouse sensitivity in control panel too high.

None of the links you provided support the claim that this is interference from the motherboard. The Original Poster didn't even mention their Motherboard Model #. You are operating on baseless assumptions.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 11, 2015, 12:06:11 AM

The root of the problem is the mouse can not reject electrical (radio) interference
coming from the motherboard. Better mice can. Weak mice don't.

He will need a spectrum analyzer and a RF probe for UHF.

I will see what our scope meter does at work

I'm inclined to believe that this is a software/firmware issue as the interference is always after a protracted period of time. Then again if I really knew then I wouldn't be here. Quote

software/firmware issue as the interference is always after a protracted period of time.

Can you document the time periods?
Also, can you reproduce this behavior in safe mode?

Discussion

18.	Solve : Basic cheap Laptop for first time computer user?
Answer» Again, they will work but they are more expensive and much lower spec/lower end machines than the REFURBISHED ONES I linked on Newegg... If you don't like those, look at the other refurbs on Newegg - They have tonnes of ex-business systems with good specs for the same price as the really low end laptops you keep linking. I know it's his first computer but I don't see why it has to be a really low end and slow machine when you could get him SOMETHING much more powerful for the same price that will last him longer. SURELY you don't want to be teaching him how to use a computer that will be frustratingly slow to use.ok I have found some good Lenovo computers there and I think I will be ordering one from there Quote from: Whitie III on August 28, 2015, 05:56:25 PM ok I have found some good Lenovo computers there and I think I will be ordering one from there I have lenovo and have to say I am very satisfied

18.

Solve : Basic cheap Laptop for first time computer user?

Answer»

Again, they will work but they are more expensive and much lower spec/lower end machines than the REFURBISHED ONES I linked on Newegg... If you don't like those, look at the other refurbs on Newegg - They have tonnes of ex-business systems with good specs for the same price as the really low end laptops you keep linking.

I know it's his first computer but I don't see why it has to be a really low end and slow machine when you could get him SOMETHING much more powerful for the same price that will last him longer. SURELY you don't want to be teaching him how to use a computer that will be frustratingly slow to use.ok I have found some good Lenovo computers there and I think I will be ordering one from there Quote from: Whitie III on August 28, 2015, 05:56:25 PM

ok I have found some good Lenovo computers there and I think I will be ordering one from there

I have lenovo and have to say I am very satisfied

Discussion

19.	Solve : computer has nothing showing on monitor?
Answer» sorry about that but it works. It is asking for bootable media should i turn off and plug hd in?and how do i send a thanks? What did you do?unplugged all the things you said and took the cmos battery out and moved the jumper then put the hd back in and i got the option after hitting F10 at start up to reset everything so i did Quote from: sol952 on October 19, 2011, 02:21:10 PM unplugged all the things you said and took the cmos battery out and moved the jumper then put the hd back in and i got the option after hitting f10 at start up to reset everything so i did That did the reset. Removing battery is usually not enough, unless you want to wait a week. Very little current draw to keep the CMOS info intact, when computer is off. HP's can be particularly stubborn about CMOS resets. I had one that would crash when inserting a floppy disk, had to remove battery to reset. Floppy disk drive was probably defective in some way. All is working, no Windows repair necesary? If yes, you MIGHT want to check/replace the CMOS battery. It was probably on battery for a while when you moved to school. CR-2032 at any drugstore, GROCERY store, for about $2.00-3.00. When voltage of battery drops below 2.9V it's not providing enough current. Like your wristwatch LCD going dim. I must need a new "brain battery" should have figured this out earlier.thank you so much for your helpIf it's now working & you remove the power cord for a period of time, it will happen again. GET a new battery.

19.

Solve : computer has nothing showing on monitor?

Answer»

sorry about that but it works. It is asking for bootable media
should i turn off and plug hd in?and how do i send a thanks?
What did you do?unplugged all the things you said and took the cmos battery out and moved the jumper
then put the hd back in and i got the option after hitting F10 at start up to reset everything so i did Quote from: sol952 on October 19, 2011, 02:21:10 PM

unplugged all the things you said and took the cmos battery out and moved the jumper
then put the hd back in and i got the option after hitting f10 at start up to reset everything so i did

That did the reset. Removing battery is usually not enough, unless you want to wait a week. Very little current draw to keep the CMOS info intact, when computer is off.

HP's can be particularly stubborn about CMOS resets. I had one that would crash when inserting a floppy disk, had to remove battery to reset. Floppy disk drive was probably defective in some way.

All is working, no Windows repair necesary? If yes, you MIGHT want to check/replace the CMOS battery. It was probably on battery for a while when you moved to school. CR-2032 at any drugstore, GROCERY store, for about $2.00-3.00.

When voltage of battery drops below 2.9V it's not providing enough current. Like your wristwatch LCD going dim.

I must need a new "brain battery" should have figured this out earlier.thank you so much for your helpIf it's now working & you remove the power cord for a period of time, it will happen again. GET a new battery.

Discussion

20.	Solve : So Did Staples Rip Me Off??
Answer» Backing up what BC said, that just doesn't happen by accident. There's no way a virus or Windows update wiped that drive of all data, with no trace of anything at all. In 20 years of working with computers, I have never seen our heard of something like that. More likely, they tried to restore it before when you brought it in, screwed it up, and are trying to cover their butts. I'm out on lunch now, but I'm going to send you a private message when I get back to my office and propose something. Hard enough to post from my phone as it is. HahaPM sent! Alright, so should I call Staples and demand the PC back, or what?Alright, I've actually talked to the technician. He was rather hard to understand, he has a really strong accent. Sounded Indian or something. And I don't think he likes you. I talked to the store manager first, and explained your dissatisfaction. He said he "couldn't talk tech" with me, because he's just the store manager and wasn't very knowledgeable about that stuff. I asked him if he minded if I talked to the tech myself, and he was more than happy to put him on. As soon as I told the technician why I was calling, his tone completely changed. At first he wasn't very cooperative and I could TELL he didn't want to explain it to me, but I pushed him to explain...... basically, he has no idea what's wrong (he even admitted that eventually) with it and I am inclined to believe he doesn't really know what he's doing. First he brought up the update thing. Then he tried feeding me a line about a virus killing the motherboard and wiping the hard drive. He said he's seen it happen quite a bit. I asked him to name a single virus that would render a motherboard inoperable and wipe a hard drive. He turned the question around and asked me, I said there isn't one and that was nonsense. Then he tried to bring up the fact that it was dropped 4 months ago and that's caused all the motherboard to fail. I asked him what made him so sure it was just a motherboard failure, then he said something about the video card. I reminded him that LAPTOPS don't have video card, it's integrated. Then he finally came out and admitted it. He said, and I quote "I actually don't know what's wrong with it. I've never seen this before," referring to the motherboard dying and the hard drive being empty. He said when he turns it on, nothing happens, so he thinks it's the board. Unfortunately, the laptop has already been sent off to another place for a proper diagnostic at whatever company they use, apparently by real techs, not him. When they find the issue, supposedly they'll email him and he'll notify you. He did mention that the normal cost of replacing the board, if that is indeed the issue, is $360, but you're only being charge $100 for some reason he couldn't (or wouldn't) explain to me.LOL, thanks! Yes, he is middle eastern, and really, is clueless. So let me ask 1) What is your opinion of what is going on here? Do you think he did shotty work the first time? Do you think he was malicious and destroyed my harddrive? -Do you think it is possible my data has been wiped out or can be recovered? 2) What should I do? Just sit and wait to hear from him OR should I go in and demand it be re-sent back and take it elsewhere? 3) In terms of you, should I notify you when I get contacted by him? Oh, and I raised censored, which is why it is $100 bucks (and I might duck out on paying it to I am so mad). Quote 1) What is your opinion of what is going on here? Do you think he did shotty work the first time? Do you think he was malicious and destroyed my harddrive? Well, my opinion, as I said, is that he has no idea what he's talking about. If he is responsible for the data loss, I don't think it was maliciousness, more like ignorance. Quote -Do you think it is possible my data has been wiped out or can be recovered? I asked him specifically when he checked the drive if the partition was intact and just empty or was there no partition at all. He mumbled a few things, so I asked him again and he said the partition was intact but empty. Quote 2) What should I do? Just sit and wait to hear from him OR should I go in and demand it be re-sent back and take it elsewhere? That's up to you. You'll have to ask them because I'm not sure they can have it sent back once it's already out. Quote 3) In terms of you, should I notify you when I get contacted by him? Oh, and I raised censored, which is why it is $100 bucks (and I might duck out on paying it to I am so mad). Just post back in this thread what they tell you, I'm sure everyone would be interested in hearing it. The $100 is one of the things I talked to the store manager about actually. I'm supposed to call back later and speak to the sales manager about that, he wasn't in when I called.Thanks man! Well I am thinking maybe at this point since it is shipped just letting the process run itself and getting back to you when I hear back I would love it if they gave me a full explanation and could get my data back but prolly easier at this stage to wait and see. Wow Quaxo, you really went the extra mile, Awesome Outstanding ! !It was nothing really. I just wanted to hear it from the tech's mouth myself. I have a Skype calling plan for calling my family back in the States, so I get unlimited minutes every month. That isn't something I typically do here. I just hate seeing places like this jerk people around. I'll tell you what though, it was worth it just to hear the tech finally say he had no idea what the problem was. I took pleasure in getting him to admit that. Even if I can't get them to eat that last $100, it was still worth it. I thoroughly enjoyed that. quaxo,as has been well stated exemplary effort --well done.truenorthAmen.....I feel better now and have learned my lesson....no big box stores for repairs. I actually had a laugh when the guy asked me, as a tech, how many computers can I actually diagnose and know what's wrong out of every 10? Maybe 5 or 6? I told him if 10 computers are sitting there in front of a tech and he can only figure out what's wrong with 5 or 6 of them, he's not doing his job as a tech.Very cool! I would have told him 10, may 9 on a BAD day.This is really sad, The only reason you should have been told the data was gone is if the hard drive had failed totally. That is the drive was making a grinding noise. It seems strange that a hard drive replacement and windows reload is over $200.00. But a motherboard replacement is a $100.00. The drives in the Vio's need the laptop dismantled to remove and replace the drive. It isn't a cover with 2 screws so isn't easy to change . I would wonder if the drive was changed?. I would have thought the motherboard change would cost at least the same as the hard drive. You asked in another forum post about FINDING a service company you could trust. There is an easy way, run Belarc advisor on the computer while it is going save the html file somewhere safe. After it has been serviced run it again if they say that they replaced the Hard drive then the hard drive serial numbers should be different. If they replaced the motherboard then the bios serial numbers should be different. I sent a laptop in under warrantee when it came back I had to pay for a replacement power supply as apparently it was the cause of the wireless dropping out. LOL but what i received back was a different serial numbered motherboard and battery, so they had swapped the base of the laptop , with the laptop serial number and wireless id, which didn't match the installed wireless adapter. They hadn't been able to get the hard drive to boot after the change so had done what they did to you and deleted the hard drive and reloaded the OS. I had backed up before sending it in so didn't loose anything. Thanks to Belarc I could proof in the disputes tribunel that's what they had done. I wanted a new laptop because the parts that had been fitted were from an older revision. But as it was repaired the judgement was for me but no money was awarded. Which i think only encourages businesses to rip people off. So I called staples yesterday, they said they did the following: 1) Replaced system board (motherboard) 2) Replaced hardrive 3) Restored OS 4) Repaired Combo drive 5) Cleaned heat synch and fan They were waiting for my PC to ship back, so when I asked what the problem was, all they said is what they did. I do not get why my hardrive was replaced when I just bought a new one in June! I don't think I should have to pay for any of this. My question to you all, do you have any clue given the history, what the heck was wrong and why my PC went bad with a 3 month old hardrive? Next question...so do I pretty much now have a new PC?

20.

Solve : So Did Staples Rip Me Off??

Answer»

Backing up what BC said, that just doesn't happen by accident. There's no way a virus or Windows update wiped that drive of all data, with no trace of anything at all. In 20 years of working with computers, I have never seen our heard of something like that.

More likely, they tried to restore it before when you brought it in, screwed it up, and are trying to cover their butts.

I'm out on lunch now, but I'm going to send you a private message when I get back to my office and propose something. Hard enough to post from my phone as it is. HahaPM sent!
Alright, so should I call Staples and demand the PC back, or what?Alright, I've actually talked to the technician. He was rather hard to understand, he has a really strong accent. Sounded Indian or something. And I don't think he likes you.

I talked to the store manager first, and explained your dissatisfaction. He said he "couldn't talk tech" with me, because he's just the store manager and wasn't very knowledgeable about that stuff. I asked him if he minded if I talked to the tech myself, and he was more than happy to put him on.

As soon as I told the technician why I was calling, his tone completely changed. At first he wasn't very cooperative and I could TELL he didn't want to explain it to me, but I pushed him to explain...... basically, he has no idea what's wrong (he even admitted that eventually) with it and I am inclined to believe he doesn't really know what he's doing.

First he brought up the update thing. Then he tried feeding me a line about a virus killing the motherboard and wiping the hard drive. He said he's seen it happen quite a bit. I asked him to name a single virus that would render a motherboard inoperable and wipe a hard drive. He turned the question around and asked me, I said there isn't one and that was nonsense. Then he tried to bring up the fact that it was dropped 4 months ago and that's caused all the motherboard to fail. I asked him what made him so sure it was just a motherboard failure, then he said something about the video card. I reminded him that LAPTOPS don't have video card, it's integrated. Then he finally came out and admitted it. He said, and I quote "I actually don't know what's wrong with it. I've never seen this before," referring to the motherboard dying and the hard drive being empty. He said when he turns it on, nothing happens, so he thinks it's the board.

Unfortunately, the laptop has already been sent off to another place for a proper diagnostic at whatever company they use, apparently by real techs, not him. When they find the issue, supposedly they'll email him and he'll notify you.

He did mention that the normal cost of replacing the board, if that is indeed the issue, is $360, but you're only being charge $100 for some reason he couldn't (or wouldn't) explain to me.LOL, thanks!
Yes, he is middle eastern, and really, is clueless.

So let me ask
1) What is your opinion of what is going on here? Do you think he did shotty work the first time? Do you think he was malicious and destroyed my harddrive?

-Do you think it is possible my data has been wiped out or can be recovered?

2) What should I do? Just sit and wait to hear from him OR should I go in and demand it be re-sent back and take it elsewhere?

3) In terms of you, should I notify you when I get contacted by him?
Oh, and I raised *censored*, which is why it is $100 bucks (and I might duck out on paying it to I am so mad). Quote

1) What is your opinion of what is going on here? Do you think he did shotty work the first time? Do you think he was malicious and destroyed my harddrive?

Well, my opinion, as I said, is that he has no idea what he's talking about. If he is responsible for the data loss, I don't think it was maliciousness, more like ignorance.

Quote

-Do you think it is possible my data has been wiped out or can be recovered?

I asked him specifically when he checked the drive if the partition was intact and just empty or was there no partition at all. He mumbled a few things, so I asked him again and he said the partition was intact but empty.

Quote

2) What should I do? Just sit and wait to hear from him OR should I go in and demand it be re-sent back and take it elsewhere?

That's up to you. You'll have to ask them because I'm not sure they can have it sent back once it's already out.

Quote

3) In terms of you, should I notify you when I get contacted by him?
Oh, and I raised *censored*, which is why it is $100 bucks (and I might duck out on paying it to I am so mad).

Just post back in this thread what they tell you, I'm sure everyone would be interested in hearing it.

The $100 is one of the things I talked to the store manager about actually. I'm supposed to call back later and speak to the sales manager about that, he wasn't in when I called.Thanks man! Well I am thinking maybe at this point since it is shipped just letting the process run itself and getting back to you when I hear back

I would love it if they gave me a full explanation and could get my data back but prolly easier at this stage to wait and see.
Wow Quaxo, you really went the extra mile, Awesome Outstanding ! !It was nothing really. I just wanted to hear it from the tech's mouth myself. I have a Skype calling plan for calling my family back in the States, so I get unlimited minutes every month.

That isn't something I typically do here. I just hate seeing places like this jerk people around.

I'll tell you what though, it was worth it just to hear the tech finally say he had no idea what the problem was. I took pleasure in getting him to admit that. Even if I can't get them to eat that last $100, it was still worth it. I thoroughly enjoyed that. quaxo,as has been well stated exemplary effort --well done.truenorthAmen.....I feel better now and have learned my lesson....no big box stores for repairs. I actually had a laugh when the guy asked me, as a tech, how many computers can I actually diagnose and know what's wrong out of every 10? Maybe 5 or 6? I told him if 10 computers are sitting there in front of a tech and he can only figure out what's wrong with 5 or 6 of them, he's not doing his job as a tech.Very cool!
I would have told him 10, may 9 on a BAD day.This is really sad,

The only reason you should have been told the data was gone is if the hard drive had failed totally. That is the drive was making a grinding noise.

It seems strange that a hard drive replacement and windows reload is over $200.00. But a motherboard replacement is a $100.00. The drives in the Vio's need the laptop dismantled to remove and replace the drive. It isn't a cover with 2 screws so isn't easy to change . I would wonder if the drive was changed?. I would have thought the motherboard change would cost at least the same as the hard drive. You asked in another forum post about FINDING a service company you could trust. There is an easy way, run Belarc advisor on the computer while it is going save the html file somewhere safe. After it has been serviced run it again if they say that they replaced the Hard drive then the hard drive serial numbers should be different. If they replaced the motherboard then the bios serial numbers should be different.

I sent a laptop in under warrantee when it came back I had to pay for a replacement power supply as apparently it was the cause of the wireless dropping out. LOL but what i received back was a different serial numbered motherboard and battery, so they had swapped the base of the laptop , with the laptop serial number and wireless id, which didn't match the installed wireless adapter. They hadn't been able to get the hard drive to boot after the change so had done what they did to you and deleted the hard drive and reloaded the OS. I had backed up before sending it in so didn't loose anything. Thanks to Belarc I could proof in the disputes tribunel that's what they had done. I wanted a new laptop because the parts that had been fitted were from an older revision. But as it was repaired the judgement was for me but no money was awarded. Which i think only encourages businesses to rip people off.

So I called staples yesterday, they said they did the following:

1) Replaced system board (motherboard)
2) Replaced hardrive
3) Restored OS
4) Repaired Combo drive
5) Cleaned heat synch and fan

They were waiting for my PC to ship back, so when I asked what the problem was, all they said is what they did.
I do not get why my hardrive was replaced when I just bought a new one in June!

I don't think I should have to pay for any of this.
My question to you all, do you have any clue given the history, what the heck was wrong and why my PC went bad with a 3 month old hardrive?

Next question...so do I pretty much now have a new PC?

Discussion

21.	Solve : Best Laptop For Under $400?
Answer» Yeh. After reading your replies, I realize if I get a PC on this budget, I just am not comfortable. So long as I can repair and have my old PC be trustworthy, I will stick with it until I can afford the apple I want. I want something I can trust, with a good WARRANTY, and the apple store genius has good service. Bets to see if my old PC can be fixed and last for another year TILL I can afford the apple. Of course, if my old PC can't be fixed at a reasonable cost, then I'll just have to do guesswork and get what I can. It's hard to get something under $400 which I can trust not to crash, freeze, and have errors. I need something I can have 12 WEB pages open, listen to itunes, and open word at the same time without crashes.You have to understand that laptops are now disposable computers, much like cellphones. I don't expect my new one to last as long as my old one (12 years). Besides, after 5 years, it will be too slow to do what you want to do. Have you considered a netbook? Or is one too small for you. Netbooks are a lot CHEAPER than notebooks.

Discussion

22.	Solve : Green light on back of computer blinking/ticking?
Answer» 2 months later, can't be too IMPORTANT to you.Many 'Live' CDs have a memory test. http://www.ubcd4win.com/ First of all why do you have to be so rude computer_commando? I was waiting for the COMPUTER to TURN back on again. And second of all I'm still confused. Do I just burn the program to a disk or is there something SPECIAL I have to do?

Discussion

23.	Solve : Vista only occasionally starts - power supply fault??
Answer» if the output of the 24-pin is still standard it is not proprietary, just cheap, even though they use two 24-pin power connections. If it has the same voltage specs in each and they both match a standard, one could theoretically use 2 PSU's of that standard to power the machine. Not exactly a space saving solution, though. As the rebuttal to a comment by David marshall tries to redefine proprietary: QUOTE Their (Dell’s) stance was “we offered a PC that is stable, the upgradable options we shut down on the motherboard were done to insure that the PC will run to our specs” (read that as ‘proprietary’). No- that isn't the definition of proprietary. If that was the definition, then the 486-SX was also "proprietary" since the FPU was disabled, but functioning. As well as the disabling of other features on countless other boards by other manufacturers, or the locking of CPU clock speeds. However, in this case the fact that the Motherboard accepts two 24-pin power connectors, which to my KNOWLEDGE meets no set standard (except- well two standard PSU's,assuming the voltages are the same) is definitely borderline. Only reason I don't actually call it proprietary is, even though it breaks a standard, assuming each 24-pin IS a standard in and of themselves one could theoretically run the motherboard with two standard PSUs. Of course not a feasible solution beyond the technicality, though. Wouldnt it be cheaper to get one of those weird psus with 2 24 pin connectors though? Quote from: computeruler on February 26, 2009, 06:54:42 PM Wouldnt it be cheaper to get one of those weird psus with 2 24 pin connectors though? Yes. but that's not what this is about.sry i sounded so angry, but it is my name. i guess i have reached the burnout cap for techs, I've been at this since 1994 And yes the cheapest solution is to buy the dell psu from those discountelectronics people i posted earlier, but the problem with that is the problem will come back after an indeterminable time ( I tried to do the math and physics of power burn out on the circuitry, but i had no conclusive data - and yes i have a degree in theoretical mathematics, emphasis in philosophy, accompanied by a minor " but minors are not WORTH mentioning by name). Tip: In ORDER to get the dell xps 710 to boot after it starts the un-ending amber light problem is: 1) to take out the cpu, 2) boot the cpu in another machine ( or mobo) 3) re- mount cpu in dell xps 710 4) pray a little 5) hit power button. as a side issue, i have never been able to truly diagnose the problem with this machine. I have found that sometimes the cpu will not come out of s3 state, maybe the xps 710's modified nvidia 590 chipset sends a s3 kill message instead of the unmodified mobo chipset sending a sleep message. or maybe the xps 710's modified chipset ( that does not allow overclocking anything other than an extreme chip) cannot complete a s3 suspend state any which way, you guys sound fairly competent, and might be able to answer those qustions for me, but that should be another string again, sry about the mental violence anger Thats what counsiling is for... to hel you with anger Quote from: computeruler on February 27, 2009, 04:22:09 PM Thats what counsiling is for... to hel you with anger Why is this thread still going........... far out, its been ages,

23.

Solve : Vista only occasionally starts - power supply fault??

Answer»

if the output of the 24-pin is still standard it is not proprietary, just cheap, even though they use two 24-pin power connections. If it has the same voltage specs in each and they both match a standard, one could theoretically use 2 PSU's of that standard to power the machine. Not exactly a space saving solution, though.

As the rebuttal to a comment by David marshall tries to redefine proprietary:

QUOTE

Their (Dell’s) stance was “we offered a PC that is stable, the upgradable options we shut down on the motherboard were done to insure that the PC will run to our specs” (read that as ‘proprietary’).

No- that isn't the definition of proprietary. If that was the definition, then the 486-SX was also "proprietary" since the FPU was disabled, but functioning. As well as the disabling of other features on countless other boards by other manufacturers, or the locking of CPU clock speeds.

However, in this case the fact that the Motherboard accepts two 24-pin power connectors, which to my KNOWLEDGE meets no set standard (except- well two standard PSU's,assuming the voltages are the same) is definitely borderline. Only reason I don't actually call it proprietary is, even though it breaks a standard, assuming each 24-pin IS a standard in and of themselves one could theoretically run the motherboard with two standard PSUs. Of course not a feasible solution beyond the technicality, though.

Wouldnt it be cheaper to get one of those weird psus with 2 24 pin connectors though? Quote from: computeruler on February 26, 2009, 06:54:42 PM

Wouldnt it be cheaper to get one of those weird psus with 2 24 pin connectors though?

Yes. but that's not what this is about.sry i sounded so angry, but it is my name.

i guess i have reached the burnout cap for techs, I've been at this since 1994

And yes the cheapest solution is to buy the dell psu from those discountelectronics people i posted earlier, but the problem with that is the problem will come back after an indeterminable time ( I tried to do the math and physics of power burn out on the circuitry, but i had no conclusive data - and yes i have a degree in theoretical mathematics, emphasis in philosophy, accompanied by a minor " but minors are not WORTH mentioning by name).

Tip:
In ORDER to get the dell xps 710 to boot after it starts the un-ending amber light problem is:
1) to take out the cpu,
2) boot the cpu in another machine ( or mobo)
3) re- mount cpu in dell xps 710
4) pray a little
5) hit power button.

as a side issue, i have never been able to truly diagnose the problem with this machine. I have found that sometimes the cpu will not come out of s3 state, maybe the xps 710's modified nvidia 590 chipset sends a s3 kill message instead of the unmodified mobo chipset sending a sleep message.

or maybe the xps 710's modified chipset ( that does not allow overclocking anything other than an extreme chip) cannot complete a s3 suspend state

any which way, you guys sound fairly competent, and might be able to answer those qustions for me, but that should be another string

again,
sry about the mental violence
anger
Thats what counsiling is for... to hel you with anger Quote from: computeruler on February 27, 2009, 04:22:09 PM

Thats what counsiling is for... to hel you with anger

Why is this thread still going...........
far out, its been ages,

Discussion

24.	Solve : Hardware Interrupts?
Answer» What are you hoping that SeaTools will do for you? Oh sorry, I just want to check the hard drive to make sure its not about to die or anything. There seems to be alot of HDD activity when the PC is idle. (Besides that my father keeps his livley hood stored on there without back-ups so it's a good check to do every now and then anyway).I would certainly backup all that is precious asap, in fact I'd do it before using any tools on that hard drive......the possible stress on the drive from testing could put it in the dumpster.......Don't waste any time, back it up today if the data is unreplaceable. Quote from: Accessless on April 03, 2009, 11:20:50 PM There seems to be alot of HDD activity when the PC is idle. This is normal. Windows does housekeeping when the system is idle for a certain length of time. Quote from: Accessless on April 03, 2009, 03:59:37 AM New problem, SeaTools wont detect the hard drive because it is set up as an SCSI (I think). Anyone know a way around this? Quote from: Seagate SeaTools for Windows tests USB, 1394, ATA (PATA/IDE), SATA and SCSI drives Do you have a seagate drive? I find it very unlikley that a Dell would USE a SCSI interface. What does the drive data cable look like? a SATA cable A PATA (IDE) cable SCSI cables I don't need to look, I know that it is a SATA.you previously SAID it was set up as a SCSI...Thats what the device manager said. I have already stated that this is a Dell we're dealing with... Nothing is simple. Quote from: Accessless on April 04, 2009, 11:59:19 AM Thats what the device manager said. I have already stated that this is a Dell we're dealing with... Nothing is simple. On DELLS and many other brands it is perfectly normal for drives attached to non-Intel I/O chipsets such as Jmicron and Via, and indeed most software drive EMULATORS, to show as SCSI devices in XP and Vista and Linux . So now that we have gone round this roundabout, what do I do to get seatools to recognise a SATA drive listed as an SCSI?Are you using the BOOTABLE Seatools or running them under Windows ? ? The bootable tool will identify the drive automatically...Windows

24.

Solve : Hardware Interrupts?

Answer»

What are you hoping that SeaTools will do for you?
Oh sorry, I just want to check the hard drive to make sure its not about to die or anything. There seems to be alot of HDD activity when the PC is idle. (Besides that my father keeps his livley hood stored on there without back-ups so it's a good check to do every now and then anyway).I would certainly backup all that is precious asap, in fact I'd do it before using any tools on that hard drive......the possible stress on the drive from testing could put it in the dumpster.......Don't waste any time, back it up today if the data is unreplaceable. Quote from: Accessless on April 03, 2009, 11:20:50 PM

There seems to be alot of HDD activity when the PC is idle.

This is normal. Windows does housekeeping when the system is idle for a certain length of time.
Quote from: Accessless on April 03, 2009, 03:59:37 AM

New problem, SeaTools wont detect the hard drive because it is set up as an SCSI (I think). Anyone know a way around this?

Quote from: Seagate

SeaTools for Windows tests USB, 1394, ATA (PATA/IDE), SATA and SCSI drives

Do you have a seagate drive?

I find it very unlikley that a Dell would USE a SCSI interface. What does the drive data cable look like?

a SATA cable

A PATA (IDE) cable

SCSI cables

I don't need to look, I know that it is a SATA.you previously SAID it was set up as a SCSI...Thats what the device manager said. I have already stated that this is a Dell we're dealing with... Nothing is simple. Quote from: Accessless on April 04, 2009, 11:59:19 AM

Thats what the device manager said. I have already stated that this is a Dell we're dealing with... Nothing is simple.

On DELLS and many other brands it is perfectly normal for drives attached to non-Intel I/O chipsets such as Jmicron and Via, and indeed most software drive EMULATORS, to show as SCSI devices in XP and Vista and Linux .
So now that we have gone round this roundabout, what do I do to get seatools to recognise a SATA drive listed as an SCSI?Are you using the BOOTABLE Seatools or running them under Windows ? ?
The bootable tool will identify the drive automatically...Windows

Discussion

25.	Solve : Cannot Boot Beyond BIOS?
Answer» Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 09, 2017, 09:38:23 PM Shula. Computers a NEVER installable. The number of things that can go wrong are too many to count. Just think of it as a loose connection. Okay. How to FIX all your computer problems with one mouse click https://www.quantumbalancing.com/computerproblems.htmThanks for the LINK. I WANT to BOOKMARK that!

25.

Solve : Cannot Boot Beyond BIOS?

Answer»

Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 09, 2017, 09:38:23 PM

Shula.
Computers a NEVER installable.
The number of things that can go wrong are too many to count.
Just think of it as a loose connection.

Okay. How to FIX all your computer problems with one mouse click https://www.quantumbalancing.com/computerproblems.htmThanks for the LINK. I WANT to BOOKMARK that!

Discussion

26.	Solve : I cant hear any sound,and It's NOT on mute!?
Answer» Quote because It says 'Legacy Audio Driver' but when I click on it Right click? Any yellow "?", or "!" next to it?Have you tried a different SET of SPEAKERS? Click START then Run and type in:devmgmt.msc This will take you to Device Manager. If you see any yellow or red "?" or "!" then you NEED a driver. CHECK your computer manufacturers website for driver downloads. Quote from: JJ 3000 on July 24, 2008, 12:21:23 AM Have you tried a different set of speakers? Click Start then Run and type in:devmgmt.msc This will take you to Device Manager. If you see any yellow or red "?" or "!" then you need a driver. Check your computer manufacturers website for driver downloads. a red X would simply mean it was disabled, and thus could (ideally) be enabled.

26.

Solve : I cant hear any sound,and It's NOT on mute!?

Answer»

Quote

because It says 'Legacy Audio Driver' but when I click on it

Right click? Any yellow "?", or "!" next to it?Have you tried a different SET of SPEAKERS?

Click START then Run and type in:devmgmt.msc
This will take you to Device Manager. If you see any yellow or red "?" or "!" then you NEED a driver. CHECK your computer manufacturers website for driver downloads. Quote from: JJ 3000 on July 24, 2008, 12:21:23 AM

Have you tried a different set of speakers?

Click Start then Run and type in:devmgmt.msc
This will take you to Device Manager. If you see any yellow or red "?" or "!" then you need a driver. Check your computer manufacturers website for driver downloads.

a red X would simply mean it was disabled, and thus could (ideally) be enabled.

Discussion

27.	Solve : Computer problems?
Answer» is the motherboard light on?my motherboard doesn't have a light do the fans kick on when you push the power button?yeah the fans kick on that doesn't seem to be the issue Quote from: j2087 on June 13, 2008, 05:31:38 PM yeah the fans kick on that doesn't seem to be the issue it doesnt seem to be the issue but it will help me determine if the problem is the motherboard or the PSU. this is why i asked you to tell me EXACTLY what happens when you push the power button. remove one of the sticks of RAM and try booting again, if the comp doesnt boot then swap that stick of RAM with the other and see if it boots.j2087,had a similar problem once. Solved it by putting in a "New" (not from another computer) HD and then did a format and partition --then installed an O/S and basically that got me up and running. I too wanted to use the Hd i had taken from another computer --so i installed it as a slave to the new one and it too was able to work.No one has asked if your "reused" hdd was properly jumpered and placed on the ide cable in the correct sequence. I assume it is the only hdd in your machine currently. So it should be jumpered to master and put at the 1st position on the ide cable. If you have access to another computer you can test the one that is currently not working in your present computer and set it to slave and connect it to the 2nd ide cable position and see what happens with it.good luck,truenorth Quote No one has asked if your "reused" hdd was properly jumpered and placed on the ide cable in the correct sequence. an IMPROPERLY jumpered HD will not cause your comp to fail the POST, therefore, it was not asked.I'm pretty sure it's on master but i will check to see if i can boot the HDD from another comp. Also i would like to point out the Ram could be a problem, i went to biostars website which is the maker of the mobo and it said that it's compatible with DDR 333 and 400 and the manual says it's also compatible with DDR 266 which is what i have for memory the other thing i thought of is the memory could be registered memory which is not compatible. Quote from: j2087 on June 13, 2008, 07:26:08 PM I'm pretty sure it's on master but i will check to see if i can boot the HDD from another comp. I doubt if it will boot another computer especially if they dont have the same specs.. jerryheavyarms, I once took a hdd out of a computer that was master with win98se plus tons of other goodies associated with it's previous residence and put it into a computer that SUPPOSEDLY had winxp-home (not working) on it. Removed the xp-home hdd and without any kind of alteration installed the win98se hdd into it (not same manufacturer of computer and about 4 years of age difference.It worked fine and still does on a dual O/S (now with xp-pro on 2nd hdd) Just for what it's worth (maybe not much) To Homer--your right i missed the reference to "post" in j2087's THREAD on the posting.thanks for pointing that out.That's good to hear truenorth! Although I think it won't be the same for OTHERS.. I think i'm going to replace the memory anyways, i have a feeling it could be part of the problem. I have great news i swapped the memory out and my computer started right up, i've been trying to figure out what was wrong for ALMOST a year.Congratulations! Thanks

27.

Solve : Computer problems?

Answer»

is the motherboard light on?my motherboard doesn't have a light do the fans kick on when you push the power button?yeah the fans kick on that doesn't seem to be the issue Quote from: j2087 on June 13, 2008, 05:31:38 PM

yeah the fans kick on that doesn't seem to be the issue

it doesnt seem to be the issue but it will help me determine if the problem is the motherboard or the PSU. this is why i asked you to tell me EXACTLY what happens when you push the power button. remove one of the sticks of RAM and try booting again, if the comp doesnt boot then swap that stick of RAM with the other and see if it boots.j2087,had a similar problem once. Solved it by putting in a "New" (not from another computer) HD and then did a format and partition --then installed an O/S and basically that got me up and running. I too wanted to use the Hd i had taken from another computer --so i installed it as a slave to the new one and it too was able to work.No one has asked if your "reused" hdd was properly jumpered and placed on the ide cable in the correct sequence. I assume it is the only hdd in your machine currently. So it should be jumpered to master and put at the 1st position on the ide cable. If you have access to another computer you can test the one that is currently not working in your present computer and set it to slave and connect it to the 2nd ide cable position and see what happens with it.good luck,truenorth Quote

No one has asked if your "reused" hdd was properly jumpered and placed on the ide cable in the correct sequence.

an IMPROPERLY jumpered HD will not cause your comp to fail the POST, therefore, it was not asked.I'm pretty sure it's on master but i will check to see if i can boot the HDD from another comp. Also i would like to point out the Ram could be a problem, i went to biostars website which is the maker of the mobo and it said that it's compatible with DDR 333 and 400 and the manual says it's also compatible with DDR 266 which is what i have for memory the other thing i thought of is the memory could be registered memory which is not compatible. Quote from: j2087 on June 13, 2008, 07:26:08 PM

I'm pretty sure it's on master but i will check to see if i can boot the HDD from another comp.

I doubt if it will boot another computer especially if they dont have the same specs..
jerryheavyarms, I once took a hdd out of a computer that was master with win98se plus tons of other goodies associated with it's previous residence and put it into a computer that SUPPOSEDLY had winxp-home (not working) on it. Removed the xp-home hdd and without any kind of alteration installed the win98se hdd into it (not same manufacturer of computer and about 4 years of age difference.It worked fine and still does on a dual O/S (now with xp-pro on 2nd hdd) Just for what it's worth (maybe not much)
To Homer--your right i missed the reference to "post" in j2087's THREAD on the posting.thanks for pointing that out.That's good to hear truenorth!
Although I think it won't be the same for OTHERS.. I think i'm going to replace the memory anyways, i have a feeling it could be part of the problem. I have great news i swapped the memory out and my computer started right up,
i've been trying to figure out what was wrong for ALMOST a year.Congratulations! Thanks

Discussion

28.	Solve : Need files from a hard drive?
Answer» I don't know how Quickbooks works, but chances are the files are in the "D:\DOCUMENTS & settings" (or whatever drive is the OLDER HD) folder somewhere. You might have to TAKE ownership of the files or SOMETHING along those lines.

Discussion

29.	Solve : usb keyboards wont work but phone chargrr will.?
Answer» No, nothing will come up not EVEN the BIOS screen. I just realized that neither of my fans are working, maybe I overheated something? OK so I opened up my computer. The fans somehow got stuck in the grate protecting the outside of them, and now there's lots of DUST in the PC. So in the morning I'm gonna blow all the dust out and see if the fans will work. Also what I read on another forum is to TRY unplugging everything from the motherboard, making sure there clean, and PLUGGING them back in.

Discussion

30.	Solve : Computer doesn't even start?
Answer» Here's a good link for troubleshooting your power supply: Power Supply Troubleshooting Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 11:06:12 AM Quote from: drmsucks on June 28, 2008, 10:33:05 AM EDIT: Also, does the power supply fan work when you turn the computer on? When I press it now, no. But before, yes. What do you mean by this? Quote from: drmsucks on June 28, 2008, 10:52:54 AM Move the voltage selector switch to change voltage - then slide it back to the correct voltage for you. On the back of the computer where the power cord plugs in - see if there is a (red) voltage selector switch; if so, note the numbers on it (e.g. 110), slide it back and forth but be sure to end with the same number that you started with. If there is no switch - don't worry about it. Did you do the other steps? What happens now? Before I had this problem, the fan turned on evey time I started it up. But now, with the problem, the computer won't even start up. No power =/ And to slide it back, do I have to unscrew the back? I see it with a number of 115. I did the other steps, but I held the Power on for 10 seconds and nothing happenedFrom HP's support website about that power supply (which is why I asked for the model ): Quote Power supply light on or flashes Perform the following steps, in order, until power is restored or it is determined that there is a hardware failure: CAUTION: This product contains components that are easily damaged by ElectroStatic Discharge (ESD). To reduce the chance of ESD damage, work over a non-carpeted floor, use a static dissipative work surface (like a conductive foam pad), and wear an ESD wrist strap that is connected to a grounded surface, like the metal frame of a PC. 1. Disconnect everything from the computer, including the power cord. 2. With the power cord disconnected , press the power button on the front of the computer for five seconds. Plug in the power cord and test to see if the computer can turn on. If not, continue using these steps. NOTE: If the power supply fan makes an inconsistent grinding sound or stops and starts erratically, replace the power supply 3. With the power cord removed, flip the red voltage selector switch to the opposite position. Wait about five seconds, and then switch the red voltage selector switch back to its original location. Ensure that the voltage selector switch is on the correct setting, 115V for North America. Performing this step ensures that the voltage switch is engaged and set correctly for your country/region. Oh, and here is the full page of power troubleshooting for your model: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph06788&lc=en&cc=us&lang=&rule=21100&product=405437&dlc= Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 11:36:02 AM And to slide it back, do I have to unscrew the back? I see it with a number of 115. I did the other steps, but I held the Power on for 10 seconds and nothing happened No, you shouldn't unscrew the back. Just skip this step. Let's verify that the computer is plugged into a known good wall outlet - not into a power strip, surge protector or UPS. Assuming the above, my next step would be to rule out the computer power switch. If you are comfortable with going inside your computer case, UNPLUG the computer and remove the side access panel. Trace the wires from the on switch down to the motherboard connection. Follow the guide that Saviour linked to MOMENTARILY short the motherboard power switch connection. (You'll need to plug in the computer to do this, of course - be very careful what you touch inside.) Post back your results.Didn't see Quaxo's link before I posted - I would suggest ruling out the power switch (per my post above) then following Quaxo's link to complete troubleshooting. Be very careful when dis (re) connecting the internal power cables. In the event that you need a power supply replacement, post back here and we'll guide you through! Good luck! Quote from: drmsucks on June 28, 2008, 12:04:14 PM Didn't see Quaxo's link before I posted - I would suggest ruling out the power switch (per my post above) then following Quaxo's link to complete troubleshooting. I actually edited and added in the link to the complete page. Probably why you missed it the first time Nothing has worked so far. I tried not to do the steps involving me going into the motherboard itself since I've never done it before and I'm afraidCandora, Besides the little green light that you see on the rear of your tower are there any other devices emitting light,such as the mouse,the keyboard,or any other devices that are plugged externally to the computer?truenorth Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 04:05:24 PM Nothing has worked so far. I tried not to do the steps involving me going into the motherboard itself since I've never done it before and I'm afraid OK - good choice; do you, perhaps, have a friend or relative who is more familiar? More than likely your power supply is bad (answer Truenorth's question - and sounds, fan noises or anything?) and we'll have a better idea. The 'easiest' way to tell is to plug in a new (different) psu (power supply unit) and see if the computer starts - hence, the idea of a friend who might help. Additionally, IF the psu is bad, you (friend!) can replace it for ≈$50; if you have to take it to a repair shop, it will be much more than that. Quote from: truenorth on June 28, 2008, 04:40:50 PM Candora, Besides the little green light that you see on the rear of your tower are there any other devices emitting light,such as the mouse,the keyboard,or any other devices that are plugged externally to the computer?truenorth Only thing is the MONITOR, wireless router, modem, and speakers. And drmsucks, I might. I'll see what they can do. No noises. But before this incident, the fan was pretty loud. Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 07:58:33 PM Quote from: truenorth on June 28, 2008, 04:40:50 PM Candora, Besides the little green light that you see on the rear of your tower are there any other devices emitting light,such as the mouse,the keyboard,or any other devices that are plugged externally to the computer?truenorth Only thing is the monitor, wireless router, modem, and speakers. And drmsucks, I might. I'll see what they can do. No noises. But before this incident, the fan was pretty loud. Okay - none of those items you mentioned pull power from the computer. And, if the computer has a loud fan which you now can't hear, it is an indication that the fan isn't getting power. If you have someone who can help, I would suggest ruling out the power switch, as we discussed above, then finishing the HP Troubleshooting guide that Quaxo linked to, i.e., remove the power leads from all of the internal devices and 'read' the green light code. If a friend has access to a known good PSU, perhaps he could try that as well. If there is anything else that we can do here, please post back and someone will be glad to help. And, please let us know you make out. Best of luck! Candora,There still are a couple of things that on LINE computer repair types suggest to try such as removing the RAM and reinstalling it. However it sure is beginning to indicate rather conclusively that your problem is the failure of your power supply unit or at the very least the fan that cools it.However i doubt the fan as it should fire for at least a moment until the failed fan is detected so it strongly leans to the PSU itself.This item as drmsucks suggests is a relatively easy onesself repair particularly if you have a little guidance. This might be a great time to start doing some internal examination and replacement of internal components to overcome a possible fear of doing so. Component replacement (except perhaps for motherboards and cpu's are relatively east to accomplish.goodluck,keep us posted as to your progress.truenorthI think its the Power Supply, there not to costly. You can take it down to a tech an they will put in one or you can get one ordered from the site of the make of your pc an then have the tech put it in to save money.

30.

Solve : Computer doesn't even start?

Answer»

Here's a good link for troubleshooting your power supply: Power Supply Troubleshooting
Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 11:06:12 AM

Quote from: drmsucks on June 28, 2008, 10:33:05 AM
EDIT: Also, does the power supply fan work when you turn the computer on?

When I press it now, no. But before, yes.

What do you mean by this?

Quote from: drmsucks on June 28, 2008, 10:52:54 AM

Move the voltage selector switch to change voltage - then slide it back to the correct voltage for you.

On the back of the computer where the power cord plugs in - see if there is a (red) voltage selector switch; if so, note the numbers on it (e.g. 110), slide it back and forth but be sure to end with the same number that you started with.

If there is no switch - don't worry about it.

Did you do the other steps? What happens now?

Before I had this problem, the fan turned on evey time I started it up. But now, with the problem, the computer won't even start up. No power =/

And to slide it back, do I have to unscrew the back? I see it with a number of 115. I did the other steps, but I held the Power on for 10 seconds and nothing happenedFrom HP's support website about that power supply (which is why I asked for the model ):
Quote

Power supply light on or flashes
Perform the following steps, in order, until power is restored or it is determined that there is a hardware failure:
CAUTION: This product contains components that are easily damaged by ElectroStatic Discharge (ESD). To reduce the chance of ESD damage, work over a non-carpeted floor, use a static dissipative work surface (like a conductive foam pad), and wear an ESD wrist strap that is connected to a grounded surface, like the metal frame of a PC.

1.
Disconnect everything from the computer, including the power cord.
2.
With the power cord disconnected , press the power button on the front of the computer for five seconds.
Plug in the power cord and test to see if the computer can turn on. If not, continue using these steps.
NOTE: If the power supply fan makes an inconsistent grinding sound or stops and starts erratically, replace the power supply
3.
With the power cord removed, flip the red voltage selector switch to the opposite position. Wait about five seconds, and then switch the red voltage selector switch back to its original location. Ensure that the voltage selector switch is on the correct setting, 115V for North America.
Performing this step ensures that the voltage switch is engaged and set correctly for your country/region.

Oh, and here is the full page of power troubleshooting for your model:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph06788&lc=en&cc=us&lang=&rule=21100&product=405437&dlc= Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 11:36:02 AM

And to slide it back, do I have to unscrew the back? I see it with a number of 115. I did the other steps, but I held the Power on for 10 seconds and nothing happened

No, you shouldn't unscrew the back. Just skip this step.

Let's verify that the computer is plugged into a known good wall outlet - not into a power strip, surge protector or UPS.

Assuming the above, my next step would be to rule out the computer power switch. If you are comfortable with going inside your computer case, UNPLUG the computer and remove the side access panel. Trace the wires from the on switch down to the motherboard connection. Follow the guide that Saviour linked to MOMENTARILY short the motherboard power switch connection. (You'll need to plug in the computer to do this, of course - be very careful what you touch inside.)

Post back your results.Didn't see Quaxo's link before I posted - I would suggest ruling out the power switch (per my post above) then following Quaxo's link to complete troubleshooting.

Be very careful when dis (re) connecting the internal power cables.

In the event that you need a power supply replacement, post back here and we'll guide you through!

Good luck! Quote from: drmsucks on June 28, 2008, 12:04:14 PM

Didn't see Quaxo's link before I posted - I would suggest ruling out the power switch (per my post above) then following Quaxo's link to complete troubleshooting.

I actually edited and added in the link to the complete page. Probably why you missed it the first time Nothing has worked so far. I tried not to do the steps involving me going into the motherboard itself since I've never done it before and I'm afraidCandora, Besides the little green light that you see on the rear of your tower are there any other devices emitting light,such as the mouse,the keyboard,or any other devices that are plugged externally to the computer?truenorth Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 04:05:24 PM

Nothing has worked so far. I tried not to do the steps involving me going into the motherboard itself since I've never done it before and I'm afraid

OK - good choice; do you, perhaps, have a friend or relative who is more familiar? More than likely your power supply is bad (answer Truenorth's question - and sounds, fan noises or anything?) and we'll have a better idea.

The 'easiest' way to tell is to plug in a new (different) psu (power supply unit) and see if the computer starts - hence, the idea of a friend who might help. Additionally, IF the psu is bad, you (friend!) can replace it for ≈$50; if you have to take it to a repair shop, it will be much more than that. Quote from: truenorth on June 28, 2008, 04:40:50 PM

Candora, Besides the little green light that you see on the rear of your tower are there any other devices emitting light,such as the mouse,the keyboard,or any other devices that are plugged externally to the computer?truenorth

Only thing is the MONITOR, wireless router, modem, and speakers.

And drmsucks, I might. I'll see what they can do. No noises. But before this incident, the fan was pretty loud. Quote from: Candora on June 28, 2008, 07:58:33 PM

Quote from: truenorth on June 28, 2008, 04:40:50 PM
Candora, Besides the little green light that you see on the rear of your tower are there any other devices emitting light,such as the mouse,the keyboard,or any other devices that are plugged externally to the computer?truenorth

Only thing is the monitor, wireless router, modem, and speakers.

And drmsucks, I might. I'll see what they can do. No noises. But before this incident, the fan was pretty loud.

Okay - none of those items you mentioned pull power from the computer. And, if the computer has a loud fan which you now can't hear, it is an indication that the fan isn't getting power.

If you have someone who can help, I would suggest ruling out the power switch, as we discussed above, then finishing the HP Troubleshooting guide that Quaxo linked to, i.e., remove the power leads from all of the internal devices and 'read' the green light code. If a friend has access to a known good PSU, perhaps he could try that as well.

If there is anything else that we can do here, please post back and someone will be glad to help. And, please let us know you make out.

Best of luck! Candora,There still are a couple of things that on LINE computer repair types suggest to try such as removing the RAM and reinstalling it. However it sure is beginning to indicate rather conclusively that your problem is the failure of your power supply unit or at the very least the fan that cools it.However i doubt the fan as it should fire for at least a moment until the failed fan is detected so it strongly leans to the PSU itself.This item as drmsucks suggests is a relatively easy onesself repair particularly if you have a little guidance. This might be a great time to start doing some internal examination and replacement of internal components to overcome a possible fear of doing so. Component replacement (except perhaps for motherboards and cpu's are relatively east to accomplish.goodluck,keep us posted as to your progress.truenorthI think its the Power Supply, there not to costly. You can take it down to a tech an they will put in one or you can get one ordered from the site of the make of your pc an then have the tech put it in to save money.

Discussion

31.	Solve : Computer Randomly shuts down?
Answer» Quote from: Ecardius on June 30, 2008, 08:40:10 PM Well besides the wonderful CDROM that I have to replace. Were you able to get it open?Well this is LOOKING a bit more gloomy. While in safe mode I was going through the Ad/Remove programs just trying to free up a bit of space here and there. While I went to uninstall Quick time (about a 3mb file) the computer hung and the turned off...I was able to install CCleaner which I ran fully and it cleared up close to 500 registry errors and I was able to install the Tweak Now Registry cleaner which took care of 4 listed errors. But when I go to install the AVG anti virus it says I must be ADMINISTRATOR to complete the install , even though I choose Administrator on login Quote from: drmsucks on June 30, 2008, 10:19:18 PM Quote from: Ecardius on June 30, 2008, 08:40:10 PM Well besides the wonderful CDROM that I have to replace. Were you able to get it open? I gotta grab a paper clip today at work Guys do you think I should just reinstall Windows? Or Maybe Run a Windows Repair with the Disc?Bump^No need to bump and it wouldn't hurt to perform a Repair. Quote from: Ecardius on July 01, 2008, 06:00:28 AM Guys do you think I should just reinstall Windows? Or Maybe Run a Windows Repair with the Disc? If you dont have precious FILES there, I would suggest you do a reinstall..ALRIGHT So I went to reinstall Windows and the thing turns off again during the install...So I say censored and throw in another harddrive to replace this one all together and I get a few strange beeps and then an error message saying Disk Read Error press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart...why would this happen I have always swapped harddrives in and out of computers prior to this. Man Emachines are complete garbage Im sorry I have this computer. Have you replaced IDE/SATA cables?i suggest that you do check for errors on memory( like other members suggest) or if you have a spare RAM Module, you can swap and test your system again( i think this is easier than running memory test, you simply swap your old RAM and you're done,just be sure that the RAM you use is tested GOOD, and it is the same speed...) when memory fails, you can experience strange problems on your computer and if you read all the post here, most of them access the memory...... i suggest you try it first..... hope this helps, Goodluck! A vacuum should never be used to clean a machine...the static generated is more than enough to fry a MBoard/CPU and or everything else. eMachines are notorious for weak cheap PSU's...borrow a known working one of the same or greater WATTAGE and swap it in there to see what happens.

31.

Solve : Computer Randomly shuts down?

Answer»

Quote from: Ecardius on June 30, 2008, 08:40:10 PM

Well besides the wonderful CDROM that I have to replace.

Were you able to get it open?Well this is LOOKING a bit more gloomy. While in safe mode I was going through the Ad/Remove programs just trying to free up a bit of space here and there. While I went to uninstall Quick time (about a 3mb file) the computer hung and the turned off...I was able to install CCleaner which I ran fully and it cleared up close to 500 registry errors and I was able to install the Tweak Now Registry cleaner which took care of 4 listed errors. But when I go to install the AVG anti virus it says I must be ADMINISTRATOR to complete the install , even though I choose Administrator on login

Quote from: drmsucks on June 30, 2008, 10:19:18 PM

Quote from: Ecardius on June 30, 2008, 08:40:10 PM
Well besides the wonderful CDROM that I have to replace.

Were you able to get it open?

I gotta grab a paper clip today at work

Guys do you think I should just reinstall Windows? Or Maybe Run a Windows Repair with the Disc?Bump^No need to bump and it wouldn't hurt to perform a Repair. Quote from: Ecardius on July 01, 2008, 06:00:28 AM

Guys do you think I should just reinstall Windows? Or Maybe Run a Windows Repair with the Disc?

If you dont have precious FILES there, I would suggest you do a reinstall..ALRIGHT So I went to reinstall Windows and the thing turns off again during the install...So I say *censored* and throw in another harddrive to replace this one all together and I get a few strange beeps and then an error message saying Disk Read Error press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart...why would this happen I have always swapped harddrives in and out of computers prior to this. Man Emachines are complete garbage Im sorry I have this computer. Have you replaced IDE/SATA cables?i suggest that you do check for errors on memory( like other members suggest)

or if you have a spare RAM Module, you can swap and test your system again( i think this is easier than running memory test, you simply swap your old RAM and you're done,just be sure that the RAM you use is tested GOOD, and it is the same speed...)

when memory fails, you can experience strange problems on your computer and if you read all the post here, most of them access the memory......

i suggest you try it first.....

hope this helps, Goodluck!

A vacuum should never be used to clean a machine...the static generated is more than enough to fry a MBoard/CPU and or everything else.

eMachines are notorious for weak cheap PSU's...borrow a known working one of the same or greater WATTAGE and swap it in there to see what happens.

Discussion

32.	Solve : Is my HD about to die? help!?
Answer» Same with maxblast as LONG as you have a MAXTOR DRIVE CONNECTED.

Discussion

33.	Solve : My monitor will not display Windows.?
Answer» I went to the thrift store and got a ps/2 KEYBOARD and am now able to GET into windows in safe mode. What do I do NEXT? Now, try to start in Normal Mode.I got it. I did system restore and it seems to be working correctly again. Good news THANK you for all your help. It is so NICE to know that I have help available through this forum rather than having to put all my faith in microsoft telephone support. Which is never a great option. Thanks again, ZiggsE Stop by anytime.

Discussion

34.	Solve : New build, doesn't post (but did once) fans work?
Answer» QUOTE from: PATIO on September 02, 2017, 02:34:45 PM Wrong RAM... I'm still WONDERING how you came to that conclusion.....Seen it before...that's how.

Discussion

35.	Solve : CMOS battery replaced?
Answer» --------[ Overclock ]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CPU Properties: CPU Type Intel Pentium CPU Alias P54C, A80502 CPU Stepping aC0/cC0 CPUID Revision 0000052Ch CPU Speed: CPU Clock 199.22 MHz CPU Cache: L1 Code Cache 8 KB L1 Data Cache 8 KB L2 Cache 0 Motherboard Properties: Motherboard ID INTEL-1.00.XX.DC0L Motherboard Name Intel Ruby RU430HX Chipset Properties: Motherboard Chipset Intel Triton 82430HX BIOS Properties: System BIOS Date 07/19/96 Video BIOS Date 02/27/96 Graphics Processor Properties: Video Adapter S3 ViRGE (86c325) GPU Code Name 86c325 (PCI 5333 / 5631, Rev 00) GPU Clock 14 MHz Memory Clock 14 MHz --------[ Power Management ]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Power Management Properties: Current Power Source AC Line Battery Status No Battery Full Battery Lifetime Unknown Remaining Battery Lifetime Unknown --------[ CPU ]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CPU Properties: CPU Type Intel Pentium, 200 MHz CPU Alias P54C, A80502 CPU Stepping aC0/cC0 Instruction Set x86 L1 Code Cache 8 KB L1 Data Cache 8 KB L2 Cache 0 CPU Physical Info: Package Type 296 Pin PGA Package Size 4.95 cm x 4.95 cm Transistors 3.3 million Process Technology 4M, 0.35 um, BiCMOS Die Size 91 / 83 mm2 Core Voltage 3.3 / 3.52 V I/O Voltage 3.3 / 3.52 V Typical Power 3.0 - 6.5 W (depending on clock speed) Maximum Power 8.0 - 15.5 W (depending on clock speed) CPU Manufacturer: Company Name Intel Corporation Product Information http://www.intel.com/products/browse/processor.htm CPU Utilization: CPU #1 100 % Problems & Suggestions: Problem No CPU L2 cache found. This may cause performance penalty.--------[ CPUID ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CPUID Properties: CPUID Manufacturer GenuineIntel CPUID Revision 0000052Ch Platform ID 00h (Unknown) IA CPU Serial Number Unknown HTT / CMP Units 0 / 0 Instruction Set: 64-bit x86 Extension (AMD64, EM64T) Not Supported Alternate Instruction Set Not Supported AMD 3DNow! Not Supported AMD 3DNow! Professional Not Supported AMD Enhanced 3DNow! Not Supported AMD Extended MMX Not Supported Cyrix Extended MMX Not Supported IA-64 Not Supported IA MMX Not Supported IA SSE Not Supported IA SSE 2 Not Supported IA SSE 3 Not Supported CLFLUSH Instruction Not Supported CMPXCHG8B Instruction Supported CMPXCHG16B Instruction Not Supported Conditional Move Instruction Not Supported MONITOR / MWAIT Instruction Not Supported RDTSCP Instruction Not Supported SYSCALL / SYSRET Instruction Not Supported SYSENTER / SYSEXIT Instruction Not Supported VIA FEMMS Instruction Not Supported Security Features: Advanced Cryptography Engine (ACE) Not Supported Data Execution Prevention (DEP, NX, EDB) Not Supported Hardware Random Number Generator (RNG) Not Supported Montgomery Multiplier & Hash Engine Not Supported Processor Serial Number (PSN) Not Supported Power Management Features: Automatic Clock Control Not Supported Enhanced Halt State (C1E) Not Supported Enhanced SpeedStep Technology (EIST, ESS) Not Supported Frequency ID Control Not Supported LongRun Not Supported LongRun Table Interface Not Supported PowerSaver 1.0 Not Supported PowerSaver 2.0 Not Supported PowerSaver 3.0 Not Supported Processor Duty Cycle Control Not Supported Software Thermal Control Not Supported Temperature Sensing Diode Not Supported Thermal Monitor 1 Not Supported Thermal Monitor 2 Not Supported Thermal Monitoring Not Supported Thermal Trip Not Supported Voltage ID Control Not Supported CPUID Features: 36-bit Page Size Extension Not Supported Address Region Registers (ARR) Not Supported CPL Qualified Debug Store Not Supported Debug Trace Store Not Supported Debugging Extension Supported Fast Save & Restore Not Supported Hyper-Threading Technology (HTT) Not Supported L1 Context ID Not Supported Local APIC On Chip Not Supported Machine Check Architecture (MCA) Not Supported Machine Check Exception (MCE) Supported Memory Configuration Registers (MCR) Not Supported Memory Type Range Registers (MTRR) Not Supported Model Specific Registers (MSR) Supported Page Attribute Table (PAT) Not Supported Page Global Extension Not Supported Page Size Extension (PSE) Supported Pending Break Event Not Supported Physical Address Extension (PAE) Not Supported Secure VIRTUAL Machine Extensions (Pacifica) Not Supported Self-Snoop Not Supported Time Stamp Counter (TSC) Supported Virtual Machine Extensions (Vanderpool) Not Supported Virtual Mode Extension Supported CPUID Registers (CPU #1): CPUID 00000000 00000001-756E6547-6C65746E-49656E69 CPUID 00000001 0000052C-00000000-00000000-000001BF Problems & Suggestions: Problem MMX is not supported. This may cause performance penalty. Suggestion SSE is not supported. Upgrade your CPU to speed up applications optimized for SSE. --------[ Motherboard ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Motherboard Properties: Motherboard ID INTEL-1.00.XX.DC0L Motherboard Name Intel Ruby RU430HX Motherboard Manufacturer: Company Name Intel Corporation Product Information http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd/index.htm BIOS Download http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd/genbios.htm --------[ Memory ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Physical Memory: Total 125 MB Used 63 MB Free 62 MB Utilization 50 % Swap Space: Total 1922 MB Used 0 MB Free 1922 MB Utilization 0 % Virtual Memory: Total 2047 MB Used 63 MB Free 1984 MB Utilization 3 % Physical Address Extension (PAE): Supported by Operating System No Supported by CPU No Active No Problems & Suggestions: Suggestion Install more system memory to improve applications performance. --------[ Chipset ]----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [ North Bridge: Intel Triton 82430HX ] North Bridge Properties: North Bridge Intel Triton 82430HX Chipset Manufacturer: Company Name Intel Corporation Product Information http://www.intel.com/products/browse/chipsets.htm Driver Download http://support.intel.com/support/chipsets/index.htm --------[ BIOS ]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BIOS Properties: BIOS Type AMI System BIOS Date 07/19/96 Video BIOS Date 02/27/96 BIOS Manufacturer: Company Name American Megatrends Inc. Product Information http://www.ami.com/amibios BIOS Upgrades http://www.esupport.com/biosagent/index.cfm?refererid=40 Problems & Suggestions: Suggestion Are you looking for a BIOS Upgrade? Contact eSupport Today! (If you need more, please let me know. There's still much more to the Everst report. MAYBE I may have done too much here.) I'm going to get the report and a few other things to my external hard drive and reconnect our newest PC after disconnecting the Dell. Quote Also, I have tried setting the time and date in the bios, and it does not help. [highlight]The time and date reset instantly when I EXIT, even if I save.[/highlight] Are you 100% SURE you are saving correctly, if so the setting should save until you reboot, even without a battery fitted. You need to carefully read the bios screen when saving, the prompts to save seem to be written by idiots. Quote Quote Also, I have tried setting the time and date in the bios, and it does not help. [highlight]The time and date reset instantly when I exit, even if I save.[/highlight] Are you 100% sure you are saving correctly, if so the setting should save until you reboot, even without a battery fitted. You need to carefully read the bios screen when saving, the prompts to save seem to be written by idiots. I am positive, Fed. I changed the factory date to the current date in Setup, and then I clicked on "Save & Exit" (something like that; can't remember the exact text), which rebooted the computer. When it rebooted, I got the exact same error message and went back to Setup. The date resetted back to the factory date, and the time went back to midnight. The same thing happens when I change the date and time under Windows. Is there any other way to do this? My computer has an AMI Bios. Also, I have noticed that the BIOS is not up to date. The version available on the HP website is higher than what is on that PC. It appears that the time and date is the only thing that is affected so far that badly. No problems with the hard drive thus far. The most important thing is that the computer is able to boot successfully. I don't encounter any slowdowns when Windows is running either. (By the way, the modem was removed recently, so this computer can't access the internet any longer. This computer had dial-up, and obviously isn't powerful enough to handle ethernet. At least I think.) At any rate, I'm not sure if the pins holding the battery down were bent or not. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------To GX1_Man: Do you need any more of the Everest report? There's still more of it. Fortunately I copied the report from the floppy disk to my external hard drive, so that I do not need to reconnect the Dell Dimension 8200 again. I'm thinking it may be better if this old computer gets sent to the Geek Squad over at Best Buy. I know I'll need the CD-ROMs and floppy disks, but they should know what to do to fix the issue. Quote I'm thinking it may be better if this old computer gets sent to the Geek Squad over at Best Buy. I know I'll need the CD-ROMs and floppy disks, but they should know what to do to fix the issue. What they will do is charge you about $100 which is about $99 dollars more than this Pentium 200 non MMX machine is worth. Surely you can find a better use for your money. I like old machines, but I know when to quit throwing good money after bad. Quote Quote I'm thinking it may be better if this old computer gets sent to the Geek Squad over at Best Buy. I know I'll need the CD-ROMs and floppy disks, but they should know what to do to fix the issue. What they will do is charge you about $100 which is about $99 dollars more than this Pentium 200 non MMX machine is worth. Surely you can find a better use for your money. I like old machines, but I know when to quit throwing good money after bad. What GX1_Man said. My money is on the battery not making proper contact. Quote My money is on the battery not making proper contact. or the uncle who fixed it. :-? While on a break from work, I found this pdf file. Take a look. This is the manual for my old computer's motherboard. ftp://download.intel.com/design/motherbd/oem/28181002.pdf Check out the diagram for the motherboard, and look at section 1.7.3 From what I remember, this battery has two metal pins holding it in place on the side, and another contact on the bottom. There's nothing holding it in on the top. The battery has to be in snugly. It should be. Also be sure to check out section 1.11 (Jumper settings for CMOS are there) Edit: This Christmas vacation I'm going to ask my father to check the RAM. I did see a "Memory Size Decreased" message at bootup, from what I remember... Latest edit: Actually, I'd suggest you look at anything that you think may help me. (I hope that the motherboard's capacitors are okay.)

35.

Solve : CMOS battery replaced?

Answer»

--------[ Overclock ]---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   CPU Properties:
   CPU Type Intel Pentium
   CPU Alias P54C, A80502
   CPU Stepping aC0/cC0
   CPUID Revision 0000052Ch

   CPU Speed:
   CPU Clock 199.22 MHz

   CPU Cache:
   L1 Code Cache 8 KB
   L1 Data Cache 8 KB
   L2 Cache 0

   Motherboard Properties:
   Motherboard ID INTEL-1.00.XX.DC0L
   Motherboard Name Intel Ruby RU430HX

   Chipset Properties:
   Motherboard Chipset Intel Triton 82430HX

   BIOS Properties:
   System BIOS Date 07/19/96
   Video BIOS Date 02/27/96

   Graphics Processor Properties:
   Video Adapter S3 ViRGE (86c325)
   GPU Code Name 86c325 (PCI 5333 / 5631, Rev 00)
   GPU Clock 14 MHz
   Memory Clock 14 MHz

--------[ Power Management ]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Power Management Properties:
   Current Power Source AC Line
   Battery Status No Battery
   Full Battery Lifetime Unknown
   Remaining Battery Lifetime Unknown

--------[ CPU ]---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   CPU Properties:
   CPU Type Intel Pentium, 200 MHz
   CPU Alias P54C, A80502
   CPU Stepping aC0/cC0
   Instruction Set x86
   L1 Code Cache 8 KB
   L1 Data Cache 8 KB
   L2 Cache 0

   CPU Physical Info:
   Package Type 296 Pin PGA
   Package Size 4.95 cm x 4.95 cm
   Transistors 3.3 million
   Process Technology 4M, 0.35 um, BiCMOS
   Die Size 91 / 83 mm2
   Core Voltage 3.3 / 3.52 V
   I/O Voltage 3.3 / 3.52 V
   Typical Power 3.0 - 6.5 W (depending on clock speed)
   Maximum Power 8.0 - 15.5 W (depending on clock speed)

   CPU Manufacturer:
   Company Name Intel Corporation
   Product Information http://www.intel.com/products/browse/processor.htm

   CPU Utilization:
   CPU #1 100 %

   Problems & Suggestions:
   Problem No CPU L2 cache found. This may cause performance penalty.--------[ CPUID ]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   CPUID Properties:
   CPUID Manufacturer GenuineIntel
   CPUID Revision 0000052Ch
   Platform ID 00h (Unknown)
   IA CPU Serial Number Unknown
   HTT / CMP Units 0 / 0

   Instruction Set:
   64-bit x86 Extension (AMD64, EM64T) Not Supported
   Alternate Instruction Set Not Supported
   AMD 3DNow! Not Supported
   AMD 3DNow! Professional Not Supported
   AMD Enhanced 3DNow! Not Supported
   AMD Extended MMX Not Supported
   Cyrix Extended MMX Not Supported
   IA-64 Not Supported
   IA MMX Not Supported
   IA SSE Not Supported
   IA SSE 2 Not Supported
   IA SSE 3 Not Supported
   CLFLUSH Instruction Not Supported
   CMPXCHG8B Instruction Supported
   CMPXCHG16B Instruction Not Supported
   Conditional Move Instruction Not Supported
   MONITOR / MWAIT Instruction Not Supported
   RDTSCP Instruction Not Supported
   SYSCALL / SYSRET Instruction Not Supported
   SYSENTER / SYSEXIT Instruction Not Supported
   VIA FEMMS Instruction Not Supported

   Security Features:
   Advanced Cryptography Engine (ACE) Not Supported
   Data Execution Prevention (DEP, NX, EDB) Not Supported
   Hardware Random Number Generator (RNG) Not Supported
   Montgomery Multiplier & Hash Engine Not Supported
   Processor Serial Number (PSN) Not Supported

   Power Management Features:
   Automatic Clock Control Not Supported
   Enhanced Halt State (C1E) Not Supported
   Enhanced SpeedStep Technology (EIST, ESS) Not Supported
   Frequency ID Control Not Supported
   LongRun Not Supported
   LongRun Table Interface Not Supported
   PowerSaver 1.0 Not Supported
   PowerSaver 2.0 Not Supported
   PowerSaver 3.0 Not Supported
   Processor Duty Cycle Control Not Supported
   Software Thermal Control Not Supported
   Temperature Sensing Diode Not Supported
   Thermal Monitor 1 Not Supported
   Thermal Monitor 2 Not Supported
   Thermal Monitoring Not Supported
   Thermal Trip Not Supported
   Voltage ID Control Not Supported

   CPUID Features:
   36-bit Page Size Extension Not Supported
   Address Region Registers (ARR) Not Supported
   CPL Qualified Debug Store Not Supported
   Debug Trace Store Not Supported
   Debugging Extension Supported
   Fast Save & Restore Not Supported
   Hyper-Threading Technology (HTT) Not Supported
   L1 Context ID Not Supported
   Local APIC On Chip Not Supported
   Machine Check Architecture (MCA) Not Supported
   Machine Check Exception (MCE) Supported
   Memory Configuration Registers (MCR) Not Supported
   Memory Type Range Registers (MTRR) Not Supported
   Model Specific Registers (MSR) Supported
   Page Attribute Table (PAT) Not Supported
   Page Global Extension Not Supported
   Page Size Extension (PSE) Supported
   Pending Break Event Not Supported
   Physical Address Extension (PAE) Not Supported
   Secure VIRTUAL Machine Extensions (Pacifica) Not Supported
   Self-Snoop Not Supported
   Time Stamp Counter (TSC) Supported
   Virtual Machine Extensions (Vanderpool) Not Supported
   Virtual Mode Extension Supported CPUID Registers (CPU #1):
   CPUID 00000000 00000001-756E6547-6C65746E-49656E69
   CPUID 00000001 0000052C-00000000-00000000-000001BF

   Problems & Suggestions:
   Problem MMX is not supported. This may cause performance penalty.
   Suggestion SSE is not supported. Upgrade your CPU to speed up applications optimized for SSE.

--------[ Motherboard ]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Motherboard Properties:
   Motherboard ID INTEL-1.00.XX.DC0L
   Motherboard Name Intel Ruby RU430HX

   Motherboard Manufacturer:
   Company Name Intel Corporation
   Product Information http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd/index.htm
   BIOS Download http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd/genbios.htm

--------[ Memory ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Physical Memory:
   Total 125 MB
   Used 63 MB
   Free 62 MB
   Utilization 50 %

   Swap Space:
   Total 1922 MB
   Used 0 MB
   Free 1922 MB
   Utilization 0 %

   Virtual Memory:
   Total 2047 MB
   Used 63 MB
   Free 1984 MB
   Utilization 3 %

   Physical Address Extension (PAE):
   Supported by Operating System No
   Supported by CPU No
   Active No

   Problems & Suggestions:
   Suggestion Install more system memory to improve applications performance.

--------[ Chipset ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  [ North Bridge: Intel Triton 82430HX ]

   North Bridge Properties:
   North Bridge Intel Triton 82430HX

   Chipset Manufacturer:
   Company Name Intel Corporation
   Product Information http://www.intel.com/products/browse/chipsets.htm
   Driver Download http://support.intel.com/support/chipsets/index.htm

--------[ BIOS ]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   BIOS Properties:
   BIOS Type AMI
   System BIOS Date 07/19/96
   Video BIOS Date 02/27/96

   BIOS Manufacturer:
   Company Name American Megatrends Inc.
   Product Information http://www.ami.com/amibios
   BIOS Upgrades http://www.esupport.com/biosagent/index.cfm?refererid=40

   Problems & Suggestions:
   Suggestion Are you looking for a BIOS Upgrade? Contact eSupport Today!

(If you need more, please let me know. There's still much more to the Everst report. MAYBE I may have done too much here.) I'm going to get the report and a few other things to my external hard drive and reconnect our newest PC after disconnecting the Dell. Quote

Also, I have tried setting the time and date in the bios, and it does not help. [highlight]The time and date reset instantly when I EXIT, even if I save.[/highlight]

Are you 100% SURE you are saving correctly, if so the setting should save until you reboot, even without a battery fitted.
You need to carefully read the bios screen when saving, the prompts to save seem to be written by idiots. Quote

Quote
Also, I have tried setting the time and date in the bios, and it does not help. [highlight]The time and date reset instantly when I exit, even if I save.[/highlight]
Are you 100% sure you are saving correctly, if so the setting should save until you reboot, even without a battery fitted.
You need to carefully read the bios screen when saving, the prompts to save seem to be written by idiots.

I am positive, Fed. I changed the factory date to the current date in Setup, and then I clicked on "Save & Exit" (something like that; can't remember the exact text), which rebooted the computer. When it rebooted, I got the exact same error message and went back to Setup. The date resetted back to the factory date, and the time went back to midnight. The same thing happens when I change the date and time under Windows. Is there any other way to do this? My computer has an AMI Bios. Also, I have noticed that the BIOS is not up to date. The version available on the HP website is higher than what is on that PC.

It appears that the time and date is the only thing that is affected so far that badly. No problems with the hard drive thus far. The most important thing is that the computer is able to boot successfully. I don't encounter any slowdowns when Windows is running either. (By the way, the modem was removed recently, so this computer can't access the internet any longer. This computer had dial-up, and obviously isn't powerful enough to handle ethernet. At least I think.)

At any rate, I'm not sure if the pins holding the battery down were bent or not.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------To GX1_Man:
Do you need any more of the Everest report? There's still more of it. Fortunately I copied the report from the floppy disk to my external hard drive, so that I do not need to reconnect the Dell Dimension 8200 again.

I'm thinking it may be better if this old computer gets sent to the Geek Squad over at Best Buy. I know I'll need the CD-ROMs and floppy disks, but they should know what to do to fix the issue.
Quote

I'm thinking it may be better if this old computer gets sent to the Geek Squad over at Best Buy. I know I'll need the CD-ROMs and floppy disks, but they should know what to do to fix the issue.

What they will do is charge you about $100 which is about $99 dollars more than this Pentium 200 non MMX machine is worth. Surely you can find a better use for your money. I like old machines, but I know when to quit throwing good money after bad.
Quote

Quote
I'm thinking it may be better if this old computer gets sent to the Geek Squad over at Best Buy. I know I'll need the CD-ROMs and floppy disks, but they should know what to do to fix the issue.

What they will do is charge you about $100 which is about $99 dollars more than this Pentium 200 non MMX machine is worth. Surely you can find a better use for your money. I like old machines, but I know when to quit throwing good money after bad.

What GX1_Man said.
My money is on the battery not making proper contact. Quote

My money is on the battery not making proper contact.

or the uncle who fixed it. :-?
While on a break from work, I found this pdf file. Take a look. This is the manual for my old computer's motherboard.

ftp://download.intel.com/design/motherbd/oem/28181002.pdf

Check out the diagram for the motherboard, and look at section 1.7.3

From what I remember, this battery has two metal pins holding it in place on the side, and another contact on the bottom. There's nothing holding it in on the top. The battery has to be in snugly. It should be.

Also be sure to check out section 1.11 (Jumper settings for CMOS are there)

Edit: This Christmas vacation I'm going to ask my father to check the RAM. I did see a "Memory Size Decreased" message at bootup, from what I remember...

Latest edit: Actually, I'd suggest you look at anything that you think may help me. (I hope that the motherboard's capacitors are okay.)

Discussion

36.	Solve : System starting problem?
Answer» One of you motherboard IDE plug-in ports could be bad and you could use a PCI addon card.Finally, it turned out to be the M.Board problem & its burnt. The RAM slot smokes (damaging the RAM ofcourse ) & hence i guess I gotto change the M.Board. So, guys, my question is : Any chance of the CPU GETTING damaged too ? ... I was thinking to get a M.Board (462 socket) compatible with the CPU I have (AMD Athlon AX 1600 DMT3C)... well, thats the current M.Board & CPU I have of which the M.Board is burnt. I didnt WANTED to spend much so trying to be economical here. Pls suggest, i guess the information above is sufficient for the new readers too.If the RAM is ruined then of course the CPU being destroyed is another possibility. If you have a repair shop nearby they may be able to check it for you for a few bucks to prevent throwing good money after bad. Other than that there is only the "try and see" approach. A bad power supply can cause all of this damage by the way. You stated it was FINE, but I am not convinced at all.

Discussion

37.	Solve : Strange Situation?
Answer» I hate to say this but usually no POST screen points to a faulty PSU. Do you have any friends who will let you raid their computer for a PSU trial?I don't know if you read the entire THREAD or not but I already concluded it was a Power Supply PROBLEM and bought a new unit. The computer worked for less than 2 days and went dead again. Quote I don't know if you read the entire thread or not but I already concluded it was a Power Supply problem and bought a new unit. The computer worked for less than 2 days and went dead again. Does not neccessarily mean it is still not a PSU problem... Quote I don't know if you read the entire thread or not but I already concluded it was a Power Supply problem and bought a new unit. The computer worked for less than 2 days and went dead again. Yes I did read it. The other alternative is to strip it down to the minimum and run it on the bench. You may have got a dud PSU. Quote The other alternative is to strip it down to the minimum and run it on the bench. Been done. Quote You may have got a dud PSU. It's inconceivable that both PSU's have the same problem. Is it possible 300W isn't enough to run my PC? Edit: By inconceivable I mean I hope that's not true, lol. Quote It's inconceivable that both PSU's have the same problem. Is it possible 300W isn't enough to run my PC? It's not inconcievable... i went thru a run of 4 bad PSU's lasting from a day to 3 weeks...all high end all from the same vendor. It does happen... Travel Here...Thanks for that URL. It says my minimum is 270, so that rules out a shortage problem. Now, I guess all I can do is TRY for a third PSU? Any suggestions if that fails aswell?You need to keep in mind how they rate PSU's...a 300W PSU is rated at max output under a sustained load...not an accurate way to do things but it is what it is. I NORMALLY calculate a PSU for a third less than it's rating..IE a 300W unit to me is worth about 220W at best. If your system tested out at 270W i would suggest a 400W. Just my 2 cents.Finally, something I didn't know. Thank you very much.

37.

Solve : Strange Situation?

Answer»

I hate to say this but usually no POST screen points to a faulty PSU.
Do you have any friends who will let you raid their computer for a PSU trial?I don't know if you read the entire THREAD or not but I already concluded it was a Power Supply PROBLEM and bought a new unit. The computer worked for less than 2 days and went dead again. Quote

I don't know if you read the entire thread or not but I already concluded it was a Power Supply problem and bought a new unit. The computer worked for less than 2 days and went dead again.

Does not neccessarily mean it is still not a PSU problem... Quote

I don't know if you read the entire thread or not but I already concluded it was a Power Supply problem and bought a new unit. The computer worked for less than 2 days and went dead again.

Yes I did read it.
The other alternative is to strip it down to the minimum and run it on the bench.
You may have got a dud PSU. Quote

The other alternative is to strip it down to the minimum and run it on the bench.

Been done.

Quote

You may have got a dud PSU.

It's inconceivable that both PSU's have the same problem. Is it possible 300W isn't enough to run my PC?

Edit: By inconceivable I mean I hope that's not true, lol. Quote

It's inconceivable that both PSU's have the same problem. Is it possible 300W isn't enough to run my PC?

It's not inconcievable... i went thru a run of 4 bad PSU's lasting from a day to 3 weeks...all high end all from the same vendor. It does happen...

Travel Here...Thanks for that URL.

It says my minimum is 270, so that rules out a shortage problem. Now, I guess all I can do is TRY for a third PSU? Any suggestions if that fails aswell?You need to keep in mind how they rate PSU's...a 300W PSU is rated at max output under a sustained load...not an accurate way to do things but it is what it is.

I NORMALLY calculate a PSU for a third less than it's rating..IE a 300W unit to me is worth about 220W at best.

If your system tested out at 270W i would suggest a 400W.

Just my 2 cents.Finally, something I didn't know. Thank you very much.

Discussion

38.	Solve : USB Drive - Erased???!?!!?
Answer» Does the USB drive come with a driver CD? This issue sounds like one I am having too, but THANKFULLY that HDD will work if I PLUG it into other computers for some reasion it just WONT work on mine. Quote Does the USB drive come with a driver CD? Of course not. The manual is literally (OK, figuratively) "plug in and use". Well, you have checked the Web site for the manufacturer to see if there are any ROM updates for the drive, of course. I'm also certain you have checked the BIOS setup to see if the drive is recognized. Of course you have. MAN, i'm a complete idiot to even suggest that you do this! I apologize, i really do. Quote ...I'm also certain you have checked the BIOS setup to see if the drive is recognized. Of course you have... I didn't think a USB drive would "mount" in BIOS... I thought it was post-OS specific.?

38.

Solve : USB Drive - Erased???!?!!?

Answer»

Does the USB drive come with a driver CD?

This issue sounds like one I am having too, but THANKFULLY that HDD will work if I PLUG it into other computers for some reasion it just WONT work on mine. Quote

Does the USB drive come with a driver CD?

Of course not. The manual is literally (OK, figuratively) "plug in and use".
Well, you have checked the Web site for the manufacturer to see if there are any ROM updates for the drive, of course. I'm also certain you have checked the BIOS setup to see if the drive is recognized. Of course you have. MAN, i'm a complete idiot to even suggest that you do this! I apologize, i really do.

Quote

...I'm also certain you have checked the BIOS setup to see if the drive is recognized. Of course you have...

I didn't think a USB drive would "mount" in BIOS... I thought it was post-OS specific.?

Discussion

39.	Solve : boot to a black screen with a flashing line in upper left corner?
Answer» The 32 bit always works. It will not d/l , so I give up , tired of messing with this thing. will try and take video of the target practice.THANKS for trying to help. Quote http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox#Version_2.0 Version 2.0 Main article: Firefox 2 On OCTOBER 24, 2006, Mozilla released Firefox 2. This version includes updates to the tabbed browsing environment...December 2007, Firefox Live Chat was launched... Firefox 2.0.0.20 is the FINAL version which can run under an unmodified installation of Windows NT 4.0, Windows 98, and Windows ME. Old Version of Firefox Download - OldApps.com d/l the foxfire for 98se, said it was an out of date program and would not work. Target practice went really well, 10 7mm Rem Mag at 100 yards ,,hehe. I did take out the hard drive first THO,, thanks for all the help, had a great time at the range . no video? Quote from: JJ 3000 on June 13, 2011, 01:43:16 AM no video? Not any more: Quote from: Trick on June 13, 2011, 01:34:54 AM ...Target practice went really well, 10 7mm Rem Mag at 100 yards...had a great time at the range... Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 13, 2011, 11:01:27 AM Not any more: How do you know? OP shot it full of bullet holes.Depending on his SKILLS... Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 13, 2011, 04:12:24 PM OP shot it full of bullet holes. Oh, I see. You thought I was talking about the computer. I was asking about the video he mentioned in reply #16. I would have liked to have seen it.

39.

Solve : boot to a black screen with a flashing line in upper left corner?

Answer»

The 32 bit always works.
It will not d/l , so I give up , tired of messing with this thing.
will try and take video of the target practice.THANKS for trying to help. Quote

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox#Version_2.0
Version 2.0
Main article: Firefox 2
On OCTOBER 24, 2006, Mozilla released Firefox 2. This version includes updates to the tabbed browsing environment...December 2007, Firefox Live Chat was launched... Firefox 2.0.0.20 is the FINAL version which can run under an unmodified installation of Windows NT 4.0, Windows 98, and Windows ME.

Old Version of Firefox Download - OldApps.com
d/l the foxfire for 98se, said it was an out of date program and would not work.
Target practice went really well, 10 7mm Rem Mag at 100 yards ,,hehe.
I did take out the hard drive first THO,, thanks for all the help, had a great time at the range . no video? Quote from: JJ 3000 on June 13, 2011, 01:43:16 AM

no video?

Not any more:
Quote from: Trick on June 13, 2011, 01:34:54 AM

...Target practice went really well, 10 7mm Rem Mag at 100 yards...had a great time at the range...

Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 13, 2011, 11:01:27 AM

Not any more:

How do you know? OP shot it full of bullet holes.Depending on his SKILLS... Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 13, 2011, 04:12:24 PM

OP shot it full of bullet holes.

Oh, I see. You thought I was talking about the computer.

I was asking about the video he mentioned in reply #16. I would have liked to have seen it.

Discussion

40.	Solve : CD drive broken, and a "!" in device manager?
Answer» OKAY, and I have an update. Today the cd drive just will not open (light isn't on, wont open/shut) and my computer froze. When I rebooted it said "drive FOUR not found Parallel ATA, PATA 0 pri-ide MASTER) Should I still uninstall the PCI device (the cd drive dissapeared from device manager)and as of right now it will open, but my computer will freeze for 1 second then work again. it did this when the drive first began erroring. another update: it works fine after restart, i set defaults in the BIOS and the drive error messages stopped. So I guess the problem now is just the cd rom drive not working, and it's effecting my computer's performance. The drive appears in my computer at RANDOM TIMES. when i try a cd, the drive starts to read, the light flashes and it makes a noise. Then it makes my computer freeze for short intervals fixed by restarting.Sounds like time for a new drive. Luckily you can get a new DVD burnere for less than $40 delivered.

Discussion

41.	Solve : some help with graffics card?
Answer» I suggested he USE another CURRENT thread to POST ALL of his problems in ONE spot. I'm locking this one.

Discussion

42.	Solve : Help on Intel Pentium 4?
Answer» Quote Quote Iraqi 1: Saddam Hussain has been executed! Iraqi 2: Don't worry; the ONLY thing that matters is his GPU! That's kinda racist . . . but I really did LOL. Sorry. WHAT!? That's not racist! It's crude, but it's not racist! I'm fed up with this SUPER political correctness branding everything racist! There are other forms of offence you know!!!!!Offence is the only thing that matters. Quote Offence is the only thing that matters. That and GPU's ducks"Iraq INFORMATION minister" Wasn't that Baghdad Bob? What a great flashback! Quote Quote Offence is the only thing that matters. That and GPU's ducks :-? Do ducks matter? Is this an Aflack COMMERCIAL? .... I'm so confused..... lol thats pretty funny. neil, your saddam pun was definitely not racist.OK, it wasn't racist. We live in that sort of society though, I was just being careful. In this case, I can LOL without apologizing. Sorry.I DISAGREE with track also...There is not really an ONLY thing that matters with a computer. A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly. Quote A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly. but...... but.... .... what about the ducks?? You forgot the ducks! Quote Quote A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly. but...... but.... .... what about the ducks?? You forgot the ducks! the ducks are absolutely essential to the correct functionality of the computer SYSTEM and therefore did not need to be mentioned. without the ducks, there is no computer. Quote Quote Quote A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly. but...... but.... .... what about the ducks?? You forgot the ducks! the ducks are absolutely essential to the correct functionality of the computer system and therefore did not need to be mentioned. without the ducks, there is no computer. ok... I was getting worried there for a minute. Thanks for clearing that up. I'm going to print out your post and keep it to show those people from the SPCA, next time they get all upset when I boot my duck.

42.

Solve : Help on Intel Pentium 4?

Answer»

Quote

Quote
Iraqi 1: Saddam Hussain has been executed!
Iraqi 2: Don't worry; the ONLY thing that matters is his GPU!
That's kinda racist . . . but I really did LOL.
Sorry.

WHAT!? That's not racist! It's crude, but it's not racist! I'm fed up with this SUPER political correctness branding everything racist! There are other forms of offence you know!!!!!Offence is the only thing that matters. Quote

Offence is the only thing that matters.

That and GPU's

*ducks*"Iraq INFORMATION minister"
Wasn't that Baghdad Bob? What a great flashback! Quote

Quote
Offence is the only thing that matters.

That and GPU's

*ducks*

:-? Do ducks matter?
Is this an Aflack COMMERCIAL?

.... I'm so confused.....

lol thats pretty funny.

neil, your saddam pun was definitely not racist.OK, it wasn't racist.
We live in that sort of society though, I was just being careful.
In this case, I can LOL without apologizing.
Sorry.I DISAGREE with track also...There is not really an ONLY thing that matters with a computer. A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly. Quote

A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly.

but...... but.... .... what about the ducks?? You forgot the ducks!

Quote

Quote

A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly.

but...... but.... .... what about the ducks?? You forgot the ducks!

the ducks are absolutely essential to the correct functionality of the computer SYSTEM and therefore did not need to be mentioned. without the ducks, there is no computer.
Quote

Quote
Quote

A Motherboard, CPU, PSU, RAM, Harddrive(For an OS), and of course a video card, are all essential parts to a computer just for them to operate correctly.

but...... but.... .... what about the ducks?? You forgot the ducks!

the ducks are absolutely essential to the correct functionality of the computer system and therefore did not need to be mentioned. without the ducks, there is no computer.

ok... I was getting worried there for a minute.
Thanks for clearing that up.

I'm going to print out your post and keep it to show those people from the SPCA, next time they get all upset when I boot my duck.

Discussion

43.	Solve : Old 2005-06 Super Talent Case bought from local DAV/thrift store.?
Answer» Front USB might be hidden somewhere on the front, behind a flap or other reticulating piece of the case, same with things like front-panel audio, often they get hidden for some weird design reason. Though at best it would be USB 2.0. A front-panel could be purchased and installed which can plug into a USB 3 capable MOTHERBOARD though to provide front-panel USB3. Whether it's WORTH it is another question.Well, i have looked around the case, & i can confirm that the i/o is hidden behind a spring flap door at the bottom, but there is only 2 usb 2.0, headphone out + mic in, and a cutout for Firewire... i dont have any 3.0 ports (because of it's age of course). Well, i guess i don't have any way to test or know if the PSU is alive or dead, but i am STILL replacing it with a more powerfull/efficient one. I may keep it if it works, for a GPU or something; or take it apart for components. I will probably block the very small bottom plate fan port off. On one of my side panels there is a cutout with acrylic board and another 80mm fan. I think i may enlarge it to 120mm for a CPU AIO water cooler in the future. I know for a fact that i will only be using one Graphics Card, though. My next question is should i de-rivit the 3.5" drive bay rail and shorten it from either the bottom or top.While I SUPPOSE it's fine as a case modding project, it's not a particularly special case, would have been pretty cheap and low end when new. You can almost certainly get a much newer case with proper fittings for 120mm fans and USB 3.0 stuff for very little money nowadays. While this case would still work for a basic PC, if you are building anything resembling high performance (in particular using a liquid cooler) I'd almost certainly just pick up a newer case.I may just stick to air cooling. Idk yet. I'm not going to be doing heavy Overclocking, & an AIO may not even be necessary for me. But i do want larger fans than 80mm. There are a lot of PCi slots in the case i wont be able to use, because i'm going to buy a mini-ITX motherboard (because of the onboard wifi module, single PCI-express slot, & the small form factor). This may be a poor use of the case space though. Quote There are a lot of PCi slots in the case i wont be able to use, because i'm going to buy a mini-ITX motherboard Curious about this...there's many ATX boards that have those features...Well, I was originally going to do a small form factor build as my first build.

43.

Solve : Old 2005-06 Super Talent Case bought from local DAV/thrift store.?

Answer»

Front USB might be hidden somewhere on the front, behind a flap or other reticulating piece of the case, same with things like front-panel audio, often they get hidden for some weird design reason. Though at best it would be USB 2.0.

A front-panel could be purchased and installed which can plug into a USB 3 capable MOTHERBOARD though to provide front-panel USB3. Whether it's WORTH it is another question.Well, i have looked around the case, & i can confirm that the i/o is hidden behind a spring flap door at the bottom, but there is only 2 usb 2.0, headphone out + mic in, and a cutout for Firewire... i dont have any 3.0 ports (because of it's age of course). Well, i guess i don't have any way to test or know if the PSU is alive or dead, but i am STILL replacing it with a more powerfull/efficient one. I may keep it if it works, for a GPU or something; or take it apart for components. I will probably block the very small bottom plate fan port off. On one of my side panels there is a cutout with acrylic board and another 80mm fan. I think i may enlarge it to 120mm for a CPU AIO water cooler in the future. I know for a fact that i will only be using one Graphics Card, though. My next question is should i de-rivit the 3.5" drive bay rail and shorten it from either the bottom or top.While I SUPPOSE it's fine as a case modding project, it's not a particularly special case, would have been pretty cheap and low end when new. You can almost certainly get a much newer case with proper fittings for 120mm fans and USB 3.0 stuff for very little money nowadays. While this case would still work for a basic PC, if you are building anything resembling high performance (in particular using a liquid cooler) I'd almost certainly just pick up a newer case.I may just stick to air cooling. Idk yet. I'm not going to be doing heavy Overclocking, & an AIO may not even be necessary for me. But i do want larger fans than 80mm. There are a lot of PCi slots in the case i wont be able to use, because i'm going to buy a mini-ITX motherboard (because of the onboard wifi module, single PCI-express slot, & the small form factor). This may be a poor use of the case space though. Quote

There are a lot of PCi slots in the case i wont be able to use, because i'm going to buy a mini-ITX motherboard

Curious about this...there's many ATX boards that have those features...Well, I was originally going to do a small form factor build as my first build.

Discussion

44.	Solve : system thinks that 80 gb HD is external?
Answer» Did you do as i suggested above and run the diagnostics from the manuf site ? ? ? Is it being hooked up with an 80 CONDUCTOR IDE cable ? ?yeah, it was at that time. altho something i noted is that the system paused itself(as if it had detected a cd or 3 1/2 DISK) before going to the logo of win xp. Off topic:NOTHING perosnal...but why censoring censored, ain't THAT BAD, AFAIK. Quote from: patio on April 12, 2007, 09:03:43 AM Did you do as i suggested above and run the diagnostics from the manuf site ? ? ? /quote] blargh, everyone already is tellling me to go search fo a data recovery tool, any good suggestions? Quote from: patio on March 18, 2007, 07:47:57 PM Well i'm glad to hear it is running but i would travel to that HDD manuf. site and dload and run their drive DIAGNOSTIC program to be sure. This was a week ago. Quote from: HiryuXIII on April 25, 2007, 09:43:08 AM blargh, everyone already is tellling me to go search fo a data recovery tool, any good suggestions? We don't just throw out idle suggestions you don't want to follow for just any reason.. The advice given was based upon the information you provided. We normally follow a logical path to solutions based on experience and successes in the past... The drive has already showed up at least once as having an error. Based on that i would run the HDD manuf.'s diagnostics to determine if the drive is healthy enough to trust with valuable data. This would be the first course of action i or any other logical person would do since data recovery A) does not always work and B) can be prohibitively expensive... Good advice has been freely given...what you choose to do with that advice is entirely up to you...

44.

Solve : system thinks that 80 gb HD is external?

Answer»

Did you do as i suggested above and run the diagnostics from the manuf site ? ? ?

Is it being hooked up with an 80 CONDUCTOR IDE cable ? ?yeah, it was at that time. altho something i noted is that the system paused itself(as if it had detected a cd or 3 1/2 DISK) before going to the logo of win xp.

Off topic:NOTHING perosnal...but why censoring *censored*, ain't THAT BAD, AFAIK. Quote from: patio on April 12, 2007, 09:03:43 AM

Did you do as i suggested above and run the diagnostics from the manuf site ? ? ?
/quote]

blargh, everyone already is tellling me to go search fo a data recovery tool, any good suggestions? Quote from: patio on March 18, 2007, 07:47:57 PM

Well i'm glad to hear it is running but i would travel to that HDD manuf. site and dload and run their drive DIAGNOSTIC program to be sure.

This was a week ago. Quote from: HiryuXIII on April 25, 2007, 09:43:08 AM

blargh, everyone already is tellling me to go search fo a data recovery tool, any good suggestions?

We don't just throw out idle suggestions you don't want to follow for just any reason..

The advice given was based upon the information you provided. We normally follow a logical path to solutions based on experience and successes in the past...

The drive has already showed up at least once as having an error. Based on that i would run the HDD manuf.'s diagnostics to determine if the drive is healthy enough to trust with valuable data. This would be the first course of action i or any other logical person would do since data recovery A) does not always work and B) can be prohibitively expensive...

Good advice has been freely given...what you choose to do with that advice is entirely up to you...

Discussion

45.	Solve : Video Card Problem....????
Answer» Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system FAILS. Usually the last component installed is the culprit...though not always. Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on May 04, 2007, 03:00:34 PM Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails. Usually the last component installed is the culprit...though not always. Alan <>< I did exactly this,and moved to the internal parts, and the "culprit" was the video CARD. * Update I am able to turn my PC on, after I reset the power supply. My computer POSTs without error, and now no windows boot up screen, just a blinking tab in the UPPER left hand corner of the screen, and whenever i SHUT off the PC and try to turn it back on it stays on for only 2 seconds, unless i reset the PSU. Could this be HARD drive failure???

45.

Solve : Video Card Problem....????

Answer»

Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system FAILS. Usually the last component installed is the culprit...though not always.

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on May 04, 2007, 03:00:34 PM

Strip the system of everything but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails. Usually the last component installed is the culprit...though not always.

Alan <><

I did exactly this,and moved to the internal parts, and the "culprit" was the video CARD.
* *Update*
I am able to turn my PC on, after I reset the power supply. My computer POSTs without error, and now no windows boot up screen, just a blinking tab in the UPPER left hand corner of the screen, and whenever i SHUT off the PC and try to turn it back on it stays on for only 2 seconds, unless i reset the PSU. Could this be HARD drive failure???

Discussion

46.	Solve : Screen darkens?
Answer» YES, you do have onboard video. Look where the monitor plugs in, there should be ANOTHER connector available. Plug the monitor in there and see if the problem persists. As for NARROWING down the problem, you can try another video CARD or PSU.

Discussion

47.	Solve : Computer doesn't "See" my CDROM nor DVD Burner?
Answer» What made you think the processor was damaged? Was it overclocked? Was the heatsink malfunctioning?It was running at 1050MHz - the heatsink was not malfunctioning. I am only guessing that its the processor because the User Manual for this board says that this PARTICULAR error from D-LED MEANS the processor is damaged. I really don't know if it is or not - I don't know how to test it.What type of processor is it? I do not know if the mainboard still has jumpers on it, but perhaps you need to reconfigure the mainboard by means of jumpers and not the BIOS.Its an AMD Athlon (the book said Duron, but the computer startup says Athlon). The Mainboard is an MSI K7 Master-S (MS-6341) and yes, it has the CMOS jumper (and a bunch of others too). I reset the jumper when this happened, but didn't get the desired result. Is there a way that I can test the CPU?? Or does it require specialized equipment?There's no way to test the CPU but to put it in another mainboard. Do remember that older mainboards require jumpers to be set in order to configure the Front Side Bus and may even have dip switches for voltages.Link to that MOTHERBOARD: http://www.msicomputer.com/product/detail_spec/K7_Master_S.htm And that motherboard/CPU was WORKING fine before this? Has anything happened to it since then, other than what you have posted? What revision board is this? 1.0, 1.1 or ? (By the way, nice MB if it works!)

Discussion

48.	Solve : I'm dead in the Water, I think?
Answer» I got ANOTHER drive from Etech4sale.com. It is larger but still supported by the mother board. Set the jumper and hooked it BACK up. Started the computer and "got the same thing". Monitor powers up, computer FIRES up but still nothing on the SCREEN. Red light on hard drive is still on. Tried boot DISK, no luck and tried getting into Bios but still no luck. Can't see anything on screen like before. Not sure what to do now. Any suggestions will be helpfull. Thank you

Discussion

49.	Solve : moved HHD to new computer cant get audio?
Answer» Thanks so much the exe file did create a folder named correctly and there are six files in it but when I get to the directions where it says double click on driver 9x there is no such thing Install Instructions ("SiS 7018 Audio Driver" driver version 4.12.01.3110) Click My COMPUTER with the secondary mouse button and select Properties from the pop-up menu. Click the Hardware tab, click the Device Manager tab. Click Sound Video and Game contollers, then double-click the driver already listed 9x). In the Audio Properties window, select the Driver tab. Click the Update Driver button, the Upgrade Device Driver Wizard will appear, click the NEXT button. Select Search for a suitable driver for my device (recommended) and click Next. Select Specify a location and click Browse... Browse to the folder where the drivers are located (click here) select: SIS7018.INF Click OK, click Next, and follow the on screen instructions Close the audio properties think that is impossible at this point and the LIST you sent I don't even recognize anything in it or what it is for that matter....I'm a newbie ME and 98 frequently used the same drivers for things. I have sent you two more candidates. Try the Sis7018 file first. If no luck then try the second one.SUCCESSSSSSSSSSS THANK YOU SO MUCH EVEN THE WINDOWS MEDIA PLAYER IS WORKING NOW BEFORE I HAD TO DOWNLOAD SOME OTHER MEDIA PLAYER.You are welcome. sounds LIKE everything is as it should be. Feel free to post anytime. Someone is always in! GX1_Man strikes again!

Discussion

50.	Solve : Hardware issue I guess!!?
Answer» Quote I'm not aware of any computer WITHOUT CMOS. It simply wouldn't work without it. I ran a 486 without a CMOS battery for quite a while. I remember I always had to set the date and time (if I wanted them to be correct). I think everything would just "auto-detect" -- I just couldn't customize and save any BIOS settings! I think this is ps2 port problem. IBM CORPORATION PC-XT 5160-086 Processor 8086 Processor Speed 4.77MHz Chip Set None Max. Onboard DRAM 256KB Cache None BIOS IBM Dimensions 273mm x 218mm I/O Options None NPU Options 8087 Do a lot of on line gaming on that system, Street? Quote from: Aegis on September 09, 2008, 11:25:31 PM Do a lot of on line gaming on that system, Street? Actually,I got rid of it.I got tired of it staring at me... Oh, sure...just because it's old and "over the hill," you kick it to the curb... Hey, wait -- that's what HAPPENED to me at my last job... Quote from: squall_01 on September 08, 2008, 10:18:10 AM I have a 486 an I looked at the board an didn't see any form of it. That brings back memories if I had any of useing that. ANYTHING from the 286 up has a battery, or at least a battery connector. However, the board in question might be using a battery chip (usually with the WORD "Dallas" somewhere on it.)Interesting no one mentioned that too mee. Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 10, 2008, 03:49:15 AM Quote from: squall_01 on September 08, 2008, 10:18:10 AM I have a 486 an I looked at the board an didn't see any form of it. That brings back memories if I had any of useing that. anything from the 286 up has a battery, or at least a battery connector. However, the board in question might be using a battery chip (usually with the word "Dallas" somewhere on it.) why exactly Dallas ?try using google Quote from: nadalbg on September 10, 2008, 08:30:35 AM Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 10, 2008, 03:49:15 AM Quote from: squall_01 on September 08, 2008, 10:18:10 AM I have a 486 an I looked at the board an didn't see any form of it. That brings back memories if I had any of useing that. anything from the 286 up has a battery, or at least a battery connector. However, the board in question might be using a battery chip (usually with the word "Dallas" somewhere on it.) why exactly Dallas ? The battery/clock chips were produced by a company called "Dallas Semiconductor".that tells alot. I got another 486 for free!!!!! Thanks Guys, My computer is doing good now, I got it new CMOS Battery , They weren't costly at all !! The reason why my mouse and keyboard would stop working was because the keyboard had some problem so I got a new keyboard. mite of broke off one of those pins. KEysboards are so cheap its easy to get an new one.

50.

Solve : Hardware issue I guess!!?

Answer»

Quote

I'm not aware of any computer WITHOUT CMOS. It simply wouldn't work without it.

I ran a 486 without a CMOS battery for quite a while. I remember I always had to set the date and time (if I wanted them to be correct). I think everything would just "auto-detect" -- I just couldn't customize and save any BIOS settings! I think this is ps2 port problem.

IBM CORPORATION

PC-XT 5160-086

Processor
8086

Processor Speed
4.77MHz

Chip Set
None

Max. Onboard DRAM
256KB

Cache
None

BIOS
IBM

Dimensions
273mm x 218mm

I/O Options
None

NPU Options
8087

Do a lot of on line gaming on that system, Street? Quote from: Aegis on September 09, 2008, 11:25:31 PM

Do a lot of on line gaming on that system, Street?

Actually,I got rid of it.I got tired of it staring at me... Oh, sure...just because it's old and "over the hill," you kick it to the curb...

Hey, wait -- that's what HAPPENED to me at my last job... Quote from: squall_01 on September 08, 2008, 10:18:10 AM

I have a 486 an I looked at the board an didn't see any form of it. That brings back memories if I had any of useing that.

ANYTHING from the 286 up has a battery, or at least a battery connector. However, the board in question might be using a battery chip (usually with the WORD "Dallas" somewhere on it.)Interesting no one mentioned that too mee. Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 10, 2008, 03:49:15 AM

Quote from: squall_01 on September 08, 2008, 10:18:10 AM
I have a 486 an I looked at the board an didn't see any form of it. That brings back memories if I had any of useing that.

anything from the 286 up has a battery, or at least a battery connector. However, the board in question might be using a battery chip (usually with the word "Dallas" somewhere on it.)

why exactly Dallas ?try using google Quote from: nadalbg on September 10, 2008, 08:30:35 AM

Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 10, 2008, 03:49:15 AM
Quote from: squall_01 on September 08, 2008, 10:18:10 AM
I have a 486 an I looked at the board an didn't see any form of it. That brings back memories if I had any of useing that.

anything from the 286 up has a battery, or at least a battery connector. However, the board in question might be using a battery chip (usually with the word "Dallas" somewhere on it.)
why exactly Dallas ?

The battery/clock chips were produced by a company called "Dallas Semiconductor".that tells alot. I got another 486 for free!!!!! Thanks Guys,
My computer is doing good now, I got it new CMOS Battery , They weren't costly at all !!
The reason why my mouse and keyboard would stop working was because the keyboard had some problem so I got a new keyboard.

mite of broke off one of those pins. KEysboards are so cheap its easy to get an new one.

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