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Hi folks
Just got my new monitors today (some of you already heard LOL
I have one working great. It's getting the other one to work is my problem.
this is the monitors I purchased :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4MJ1M0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00H4MJ1M0&linkCode=as2&tag=pchahe-20

My gpu is 5770 HIS it has 4 ports on it two DVI  one DP and one HDMI
I have tried these combos.
1. monitor to monitor  hdmi to hdmi ports  DP to mini Dp ports
2. GPU   hdmi to Hdmi  (monitor does not have DVI ports
3. The working monitor is running GPU GP to mini GP on monitor
I have tried all the port SETTINGS on the screen.
it works like a TV open menu and it gives you options  2 HDMI port choices and  1 DP and 1 DP mini choice
any HELP would be appreciated
TIA 

What devices do you want to use your monitor with?  Computer only, computer and smartphone, or what?  I did not even know monitors with no DVI and D-Sub connectors are on the market now.  Which manuf. is the card ? ?SOYBEAN it's just for the computer, also state of the art. Dell just launched it about a month ago.
Patio It's an ATI knock off  HIS 5770

whats a good brand for computer case fans? im looking at cool masters, rocket fish, masscool, antec.Fans do not have brand names that are household words.
Maybe we could take a survey.
To be serious, get an electronics parts catalog and see what hobbyists and  Engineers buy.
Here is my FAVORITE:
http://www.allelectronics.com/
The have a catalog of both surplus and brand name inventories.  The prices are either the same or lower that others.
But if you only want new  industrial grade PRODUCTS try:
http://www.jameco.com/
The above company doers international shipping and offers discounts for quantity purchase. The also have a downloadable Catalog.
Better on-line  retailers will sell fans from reputable companies.
http://www.newegg.com/

As for brand names of fans, I don't remember any.It really DEPENDS what you're looking for - airflow?  Static pressure?  Low noise?  What size?  And how much do you want to spend?

Yate Loons are cheap, decent quality, and they're offered in the common 120mm and 140mm sizes from 800rpm (super slow and silent) to silly high rpm (lots of airflow, very noisy) so I often recommend these as a general option.  They're quite hard to beat unless you're looking for something specific and are prepared to pay a little more for it.  I use Sharkoon fans (rebadged Zawards) which are a little pricier but arguably perform better, again they're not suitable for everyone.  I also use a lot of San Aces, which are industrial grade 38mm THICK fans (as opposed to the standard 25mm thickness) which are LOUD at full speed and push a lot of air. Quote from: Calum on April 09, 2014, 02:35:14 PM

It really depends what you're looking for - airflow?  Static pressure?  Low noise?  What size?  And how much do you want to spend?

Yate Loons are cheap, decent quality, and they're offered in the common 120mm and 140mm sizes from 800rpm (super slow and silent) to silly high rpm (lots of airflow, very noisy) so I often recommend these as a general option.  They're quite hard to beat unless you're looking for something specific and are prepared to pay a little more for it.  I use Sharkoon fans (rebadged Zawards) which are a little pricier but arguably perform better, again they're not suitable for everyone.  I also use a lot of San Aces, which are industrial grade 38mm thick fans (as opposed to the standard 25mm thickness) which are LOUD at full speed and push a lot of air.

WHERE CAN I BUY PF AND CR scales of EPSON L200

[recovering disk space, ATTACHMENT DELETED by admin]In what country?
KENYA

I have upgraded my upgraded my power supply a few months back with AC 101-102V and 50/60 Hz. I am looking to upgrade to a Intel Dual Core Quad Q6700 or Q6600. I want to know if it will work and if I need a new heatsink or thermal compound. I would also like directions on how to do this.Your PSU specs make no sense...
Will that Dell MBoard accomodate the new CPU ? ?
You may be better off considering a new build rather than throwin $$ at an old Dell.
Just food for thought. Quote from: patio on April 09, 2014, 05:19:17 PM

Your PSU specs make no sense...
Will that Dell MBoard accomodate the new CPU ? ?
You may be better off considering a new build rather than throwin $$ at an old Dell.
Just food for thought.

What do you have for a video card?

400watts works fine for that quadcore as long as its not loaded down heavily by a heavy duty video card and/or multiple hard drives etc.

Be sure to flash the motherboard with latest BIOS before swapping CPU or else you may end up with a system that wont boot on you.

Heatsinks for socket 775 come in a couple different formats, with the most common being the 4 locking legs that unlock by screw driver, however if your heatsink is different than this, such as a higher end heatsink with heatpipes etc it will come appart differently.

Here is the most common heatsink type to off the shelf grade computers: http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2231&page=7

I have an IDE drive that I would call intermit. I mean I was able to access it once in a gazillion tries with a jury rigged Roswill thingamajig using Dead Disc Doctor on my home brew computer. I recovered several files before it stopped working altogether. My question:
Does anyone know of a better way or possibly better software similar to what I hear about the FBI using on TV?
I have tried putting it in the freezer for awhile, thumping it in various attitudes. I was using this drive for several years and wrote a number of short stories onto it I want to recover. Good stuff...
Thanks for any Ideas.
CopasHi Copas

What drive is it the model would be enough info  . What happens when you try to access it, is it detected correctly in the bios and if not what is it detected as ?

The best tool to check the drive is MHDD from here http://hddguru.com/software/2005.10.02-MHDD/

Just for future reference freezing a drive is a No no.
Knocking a drive is the same.
The best way is to have all the software tools available. Check the computer and cables with a known good drive. If this is the first time you have used the software get familiar with it on a known good system first.
Then attach the failing drive, listen, watch the bios identification of the drive, if either sound or look wrong turn the computer off. Until the drive is detected in the bios correctly no software EXCEPT MHDD will be safe accessing the drive so don't try.

If you come back with answers to the above I am happy to advise you of the steps you can take.

Thankyou
Lisa_maree

   Thanks so much for your reply.

It is a Maxtor, D540X-4K.
One time my computer reconized it but my last several attempts were in vain.
I believe it's about ten years of age.
Thanks again,
Ivan CopasI'd stop "thumpin" it...

As far as the freezer method it is a last ditch effort other than professional data recovery services which are expensive...

It's worked approx 30% of the time i've used it over the years.So, you have a "number of short stories" written by you on a drive that's 10 years old and you did not have those STORY files backed up ELSEWHERE.  This is truly an example of one of the worst fallacies of human use of a computer.  Hi Ivan

Have you checked that another drive of the same age is detected by the computer? this insures the ide port is working that the bios is GIVING enough time to detect this type of drive.

With that drive I would use a ata 33 cable the old coarser cable. An older cable gives more options for how the IDE controller can access the drive.

Do you hear the heads load ? And does the drive keep spinning? harddrives do power on diagnostics and will stop the drive spinning if there is a fault.

Does MHDD detect the drive ?

Hmmmm...Thanks for the suggestions. I am fascinated by the many suggestions.
I am considering removing the disk and putting it in another drive if I can find the same model.
I know it's considered prudent to back up files but I don't consider my writing too valuable.
Thanks for your responses.
Ivan  PS...
I connected the 'problem drive' to this puter today and HDD returns: Unable to locate 'A'
Stimied for now... "A" is the floppy drive designation...I connect the drive to a USB port when I use the Roswill lash up.
I can connect it to the 'slave' ribbon in the HP puter.
The dead drive is the origional that failed in the HP...
Perhaps I have confused myself...
 If it's an older IDE HDD connect it as slave...you may need to set the jumper on the HDD itself...diagram will be on top of the HDD.

IDE cabling : :

MBoard==========================Slave======Master.I did know about the slave settings.
The bios in the HP just doesn't see it.
I can feel it spin sometimes.
That's about all I learned from it...
Many thanks.Hi

If it spins sometimes can you check that the drive is getting 12V. It's the yellow wire if this is low, like under 11volts you will need  a better supply.

You could try cleaning carefully the head contacts and the motor contacts with a eraser. You will need a torque driver to undo the screws holding the board.

This is the manual for your drive *Blocked Russian URL*/pdf/quantum/d540x-4k_ata100_manual.pdf

And what you have described so far it looks like a board fault not a drive mechanical fault. So swapping the plater is for when you want to learn not to get the data back.

Swapping platters without the correct tools and practise will be a disaster normally anyway. Best to leave that to a professional.




Thanks again for your response.
Your advice is well taken and I will be careful.
I am encourge by the fact that once upon a time this drive responded to my efforts and I downloaded a great many files from it. However they were in a strange (to me) format and I found it difficult to get any sense from them. (My bad?) This was when it was connected to my Roswill thing on the bench.
I do claim a good may years of working with electronic things and claim to have: "A belly laugh in either typewriter hand...)
Thanks again to all who responded, and keep up the good work "

Lenovo W150HN.Purchased on 2011 .
Windows 7 64 bit up to date.
8GB RAM , Crucial C300 SSD.
On board sound. NVIDIA 540M graphics card.
Comodo Internet Security, regularly scanned with Malwarebytes,Spybot S&D,Kaspersky Virus Cleaner.
I have a Windows CD.

Problem started happening 2 weeks AGO and I do not recall INSTALLING anything prior to that.I leave the laptop on all night to run a small program on background.I lower the resolution and put it in power saver mode with CPU throttle and sleep disabled.The program I run is not CPU/RAM/GPU intensive.Very small program that I've been using for a long time.
The problem is , the computer crashes and reboots itself overnight.When I go to Device Manager I can't find the NVIDIA graphics card and only Intel integrated one is listed.When I right click on DESKTOP, I do not see the NVIDIA control panel.If I try to reinstall the driver it says no compatible hardware is detected.
If I reboot the problem still exists,the card is not recognized.If I shut down the computer then start it, then NVIDIA comes back and everything works normal.I can even play a GPU intensive game without any hiccups.The card disappears and causes computer to reboot overnight when I leave it on.The GPu temps are not that high, around 60C.Has always been like that.The computer has been cleaned from dust internally about 5 months ago.
The Reliability Monitor shows this "Shut down unexpectedly" error
Code: [Select]BCCode: f4
BCP1: 0000000000000003
BCP2: FFFFFA8008A6E770
BCP3: FFFFFA8008A6EA50
BCP4: FFFFF800031CF7B0
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service PACK: 1_0
Product: 256_1
the following error was from 2 days ago
Code: [Select]BCCode: 7a
BCP1: 0000000000000020
BCP2: FFFFFFFFC000009D
BCP3: FFFFFA8007805078
BCP4: 0000000000000000
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1
This error was from March 21.It is titled "Video Hardware Error" and the details are
Code: [Select]BCCode: 117
BCP1: FFFFFA800873C320
BCP2: FFFFF880040F1D10
BCP3: 0000000000000000
BCP4: 0000000000000000
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1

It's pretty obvious that NVIDIA is causing this problem but could this be a software related issue?I don't recall updating anything prior to that.I just ran a 2-pass Memtest86+ and RAM came up clean.Sfc /scannow came up clean as well.Computer is clean from viruses.Verified by 5 different scanners.Any ideas ? Thanks.

Edit: I installed the latest NVIDIA drivers from official website but the problem still happens.I was able to reproduce the problem.
This happens only when I throttle the CPU to less than 50% from Power Options advanced settings.Keeping it like that for few hours apparently causes a CONFLICT between NVIDIA graphics card and 2nd gen Intel i7.The problem can be considered solved.

Guys, I have a Asus Z87 and a Inet I7 and Intel water-cooling. No case Fan installed on Mainboard. The asus AI suit makes the fan running fullspeed ALTHOUGH the PROCESSOR is on 28C.
Next thing is the USB 3. I have a HD-Station hanging on USB3 (Fantec QB-X8US3) with 8 harddisks und USB 3)

The maximum speed copying files from  intern HD to Fantec via USB 3 I GET is: 25,3 MB/sec.

Help please!!A reference STATES:
USB 2.0 Max is p to 35 MB/s or 280 Mbit/s
USB 3.0 Max is up to 4 Gbit/s 500 MB/s
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
Or put another way, The new USB standard and do up to 14 times faster. However, both standards ware variable speed interfaces. They can adjust to the need of the device. No hard DRIVE is able to do the top speed of either.
What do you mean about your case fan?  Generally the fan on your liquid cooler's radiator should be connected to the CPU fan header and the pump to a regular case fan header or directly to the power supply.In have one plug...and this is on the CPU cooler....but AI do not realize that....All other vans in the case are not on the motherboard...Which cable is connected to the CPU fan header?  Make sure it is the liquid cooler's fan and not the pump.You all got me wrong...problem is the speed of the USB 3....
This is not normal, is it?

I am totally confused! I have a HP a1600n operating on Win 7 32 bit:

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00757531&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en#N116

Slots 1/2 are blue, slots 3/4 are BLACK. Right now I have two 512 PC-2 5300 sticks in slots 1 and 2. I am purchasing two 1MB PC-2 5300 sticks. 

1. Shouldn't my two existing 512 sticks be in slots 1/3 or 2/4 to get dual vs single channel performance?

2. How should I arrange the new sticks?

From what I have read on HP forums, the higher density sticks should always be in the blue slots. Not sure if higher density means higher RAM.Scratch that first post. I just realized CPU-Z shows my PC is operating in dual channel. When I get the new 1GB sticks, I will put them in the blue slots and move the existing 512MB into the black slots.There ya go...
Different MBoard manuf. do it different ways...
So for example on one manuf. dual channel may be slots 1 and 3...and 2 and 4...whereas on yours it is 1 and 2 ...and 3 and 4.
Quote from: patio on April 21, 2014, 09:12:27 AM

There ya go...
Different MBoard manuf. do it different ways...
So for example on one manuf. dual channel may be slots 1 and 3...and 2 and 4...whereas on yours it is 1 and 2 ...and 3 and 4.

Thats how i would do it.

Hello everyone

I'm building a gaming laptop for when I'm not at home, i spend quite a lot of TIME on trains or at my partners place so I'm away from my desktop or console and my current laptop is just a bog standard thing with integrated graphics. I'm building on a site called pcspecialist.co.uk and the current build I've selected comes out at about £750 and that's really as high as I'm willing to go. I don't expect massive performance out of this so PLEASE don't just recommend me top of the line changes, the only advice i want is WHETHER or not the parts I've selected work well together and I'm not wasting any power or bottlenecking the GPU. Thanks

If you want to have a play around with the full options I have available then this is the base model I have selected - http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/notebooks/cosmosII-17/
but please try and stick as close as possible to £750 total if you do find a better configuration. Thank you.

   
Chassis & Display
Cosmos Series: 17.3" Matte Full HD LED Widescreen (1920x1080)
   
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™i7 Quad Core Mobile Processor i7-4710MQ (2.50GHz) 6MB
   
Memory (RAM)
8GB KINGSTON HYPER-X GENESIS 1600MHz SODIMM DDR3 (1 x 8GB)
   
Graphics Card
NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 850M - 2.0GB DDR3 Video RAM - DirectX® 11
   
Memory - Hard Disk
500GB SEAGATE HYBRID SSHD Drive, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64MB CACHE (5400 rpm)
   
DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
8x SATA DVD±R/RW/Dual Layer (+ 24x CD-RW)
      
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND (£9)
   
Sound Card
Intel 2 Channel High Definition Audio + MIC/Headphone Jack
   
Bluetooth & Wireless
WIRELESS INTEL® N135 802.11N (150Mbps) + BLUETOOTH
   
USB Options
3 x USB 3.0 PORTS + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT AS STANDARD
   
Battery
Cosmos Series 6 Cell Lithium Ion Battery (48.84WH)
   
Power Lead & Adaptor
1 x UK Power Lead & 90W AC Adaptor

So again, all I'm looking for is confirmation that these parts will work well together and I'm not wasting anything. As far as CPU goes I can't afford to upgrade it to a better Quad Core so any changes would have to be a downgrade to Dual Core with higher GHz but lower Cache size (I mat have just said something ridiculous but I'm not very knowledgeable on hardware so forgive me!)

Thanks again

That would be fine, your video card should play all current games but some very intensive ones may require the graphics detail to be decreased slightly.  Also, don't bother paying the extra for the "better" thermal compound - The difference between thermal compounds is tiny and the £9 they charge for that is a bit ridiculous since an entire 4g tube of MX-4 costs under £4. Quote from: Jee on April 21, 2014, 04:21:15 AM

I'm building a gaming laptop ...

Hey guys, I have a problem which has persisted over weeks and it is very annoying, disabling at best. Whenever I play games that are somewhat demanding, which my computer can handle totally fine as the framerate stays high and my GPU temp never goes over 82 Celsius DEGREES, my screen will sometimes freeze up for a good 10 SECONDS and loop whatever sound was playing at that time, and it sometimes does it multiple times in a row. My record was 6 times in a row, landing me a good solid death, a loss, and a yell of disappointment.

Here's my dxdiag:
OS: Windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit
BIOS:  2006 (American Megatrends)
Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8350 Eight-Core Processor (8 CPUs), ~4.0GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM
Graphics card: NVIDIA geForce GTX 650 Ti

Quote

GPU temp never goes over 82 Celsius degrees

So it is well under the limit. But what about other temps?

What are the full specs of your machine including the make/model of motherboard and power supply.

CPU temperature is relatively fine.I have no clue on how to find those, could you help?

If you run Speccy from here http://www.piriform.com/speccy that will show most of the parts.  For the power supply you really need to look at the physical item.  It's the big box where you plug the power into the back of - There will be a sticker on this giving a brand name and model number.

How old is this PC and did you buy it premade?  It may still be under warranty.

I am fairly new to the building side of computer. I know quite a bit but I still could use advice.

Budget: 1200$

Power Supply:
RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-730SS 730W ATX12V V2.2 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-152-036
Motherboard:
MSI A88X-G43 FM2+ / FM2 AMD A88X (Bolton) Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-130-744
CPU:
AMD A10-7850K Kaveri 3.7GHz Socket FM2+ 95W Desktop Processor AMD Radeon R7 series AD785KXBJABOX http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=19-113-359
RAM:
Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-2133C9D-16GXH http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-571
Graphics Card:
AXR9 280X 3GBD5-T2DHE/OC Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Video Card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-131-533R
Case:
Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-020


I already have the hard drives and all of the peripherals. All I need is SUGGESTIONS in what to change if anything.

Thanks for your help!Your budget is really high - No reason to go down the route of an AMD APU.  That power supply is also extremely low quality - I wouldn't trust it to power any of my PCs.

Your budget can easily accommodate an Intel CPU like an Intel Core i5 4670k which would perform much better than the APU you specified.  You would then be able to get something like a GeForce 760 or 770 video card and a high quality motherboard and power supply (MSI is pretty low end and as already said, that Raidmax PSU is really bad).  As you already have drives, your budget already leaves loads of room to get something like an SSD.

I'd suggest something like this which would be much better value for money and perform a lot better in games: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/camerongray/saved/4sJ4Thanks for the feedback!

If I already have a SSD, CD/DVD Drive, and Windows where would you recommend putting that extra 200$?

Also I would like to add that I do have and like to use 2 monitors if that changes anything.In that case I would use the money to bump the video card up to the best you can afford - Either a 770, 780 or 780ti.

Also, if you plan on using the system for things like video editing or other CPU intensive stuff, you may want to consider swapping the i5 to an i7 4770k.The MAIN use for this PC is class work, programming, and gaming. So nothing too intensive.In that case the i5 would be fine.  I'd maybe consider upgrading the video card to a 770 but other than that you may as well just save your money.Ok, I'll look at upgrading the graphics card!
Thanks so much for you help again!No problem.Does this look pretty good?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3xfaG
Looks great!

I'd maybe bump up to a 650w PSU to be on the safe side with the 770 - This would be fine: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1650snlb9I just wanted to double check, with this build I should be able to risky use two monitors right?

Another question, if I wanted to reuse my current hard drives would you recommend that? If so how would I go about WIPING them and starting fresh on these hard drives. (One of which is a SSD I plan on using for a boot drive)Yeah, that will work fine with two monitors.  You won't be able to really game spread across two though as the borders are right in the middle of your viewpoint but gaming on one with the other displaying other things will be fine.

Reusing your hard drives/SSDs is fine - Just format them before installing your OS (The OS installer should ALLOW you to do this).Thanks for all the help! I've been asking a lot of questions...

That said, I have another question. Can I get a list of cables I will need for the PC or will most of them come with there respective components?The cables for all the internal parts will be included - All power comes with the power supply and all the SATA cables for your drives come with the motherboard.

The PSU may or may not come with the cord to connect it to the wall outlet, but if it doesn't it's just the same 'kettle lead' that you would use for any PC.Awesome! Thanks again...

I'm planning on buying a new laptop, around 840 usd/600 eur. 13-15", and if the pc is working better/faster/higher profarmce without DVD-drive, i wil take that.
 I think I could get what i need for that price
(I live in Norway)

I have a quite powerful laptop now, bought it caused i used to play som games that need "power". No i just use the web, OFFICE, watch sosme downloads, stream music and a GPS-software.

How much will i notice the difference between
Core I3
Core I5
Core I7
Celeron
AMD- prosessors.

I Understand that higher price is better proformnace, but is Celeron enoguh for my needs.

Shall I go for nettbook or notebook/tablet, or what it's called. If I have understood right, netbooks are thinner, lighter and you cant change batteries, but they are often higher on proformance, and with another type of harddisc so you get fatser back to WORK when restert after sleepmode f.ex.

And it also seems that Lenovo. Asus and Samsung is the top-three brands. What are your's recomandations.

Sorry for my bad english and messy text, but thanks for all input and tips.




Quote

i just use the web, office, watch sosme downloads, stream music and a GPS-software.

I would like to install a second video card on hp 2310pc desk top computer. When I install a new card, the video card that came with the computer BECOMES disabled. Is there a work around on this issue? Windows 8 operating system. Chances are slim to none...
The MBoard needs to SUPPORT dual vid cards...
I doubt that HP does.Just read their spec SHEET...you're outta luck on that idea.Thanks for taking a look at this.

Hi, first time poster so go easy on me please.

This question doesn't completely pertain to computer HARDWARE, but I figured this would probably be the most knowledgeable forum to ask.

I wish to connect my Wii (or GameCube - if Wii won't WORK, I'll just purchase a GameCube because this is solely for the purpose of melee) to a computer monitor. The computer monitor I have supports VGA input I believe, would this adapter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004I53ZX2/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=cm_cr_pr_product_top work for that purpose? Physically, all the plugs look correct for the connection, I'm mostly slightly concerned with signal or software compatibility and conversion between the two.

Thanks for your help I'm not an expert in the matter, and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong...

But I believe if all you're trying to do is play your GameCube / Wii on a PC monitor, that should do the trick. As long as it's a RCA to VGA converter and your monitor takes VGA you should be fine!It is cheap enough that it is worth try.
But Amazon and others make powered adapters that are more versatile. If the cheap things does not work, go for the more expensive powered universal converter.
VGA to TV converters at Amazon. Quote from: minho on April 13, 2014, 12:18:36 PM

Hi, first time poster so go easy on me please.

This question doesn't completely pertain to computer hardware, but I figured this would probably be the most knowledgeable forum to ask.

I wish to connect my Wii (or GameCube - if Wii won't work, I'll just purchase a GameCube because this is solely for the purpose of melee) to a computer monitor. The computer monitor I have supports VGA input I believe, would this adapter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004I53ZX2/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=cm_cr_pr_product_top work for that purpose? Physically, all the plugs look correct for the connection, I'm mostly slightly concerned with signal or software compatibility and conversion between the two.

Thanks for your help

The Seagate Momentus 5400.6 hard drive I'm using is from my old laptop it has 4 disks.
After I put it in the (IT-CEO IT-700) enclosure, and connect it to my new laptop it does not show up in 'My Cumputer' and 'Disk Management', but displays in the 'device and printer' section of control pannel.
I also can't EJECT the hard drive, EVEN when I'm not doing anything to it, the (IT-CEO IT-700) enclusre's blue signal light just KEEPS flashing for a while then goes off for a sec, then resume flashing again.

I tried REINSTALL the hard drive's driver, but that did not solve the problem.

Please Help 
does it work fine when u put it back into the old laptopDoes it show up in the BIOS ? ?
Not too impressed with that enclosure...that unit may be in fact the issue.Hi

Can you hear the drive spinning. It is possible windows can see the usb to sata converter board in the case but the drive isn't showing up due to you not having enough power to start the drive. If you have a USB 3.0 port use that. If the drive still isn't spinning then you will need a different way to attach the drive.
Like direct to the computers Sata and power connections. Or using something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B001OORMVQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1398299746&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+to+sata

Desk top PC eMachines ET1161-7
On the BACK of the case there is a row of sockets/outlets  Pink, green and Blue. what is the function of those?
another row has Gray/white,  Black and Orange.   The Gray/white could be AUDIO in. Black,Orange unknown.
(Trying to connect PC without installation INSTRUCTIONS) Sounds like you are describing the Audio connections.

Lime Green= Speaker out
Blue = Line In
Black = Rear Audio (4.1,5.1,7.1 Audio)
Pink = Microphone
Gray= Side Surround out (7.1 Audio)
Orange = Center/Subwoofer out (5.1 and 7.1 Audio).

If you are looking to plug in a pair of SPEAKERS than you will want the Lime Green JACK.

Hi, I have a Toshiba Satellite C665D-S5200 laptop. And for the past year or so, I've been having this problem. I have explained the problem to my warranty repair people and nothing has been done. Basically, this is what happens: I can be listening to music, WATCHING a video, anything that requires sound and the sound through my speakers is perfect. Until, randomly, the sound stops. I GO into the Volume Mixer, and the bar is still moving as if sound is playing out of my speakers. (I do not have a separate INDICATOR for headphones, HOWEVER.) Finally, I realize, that if I plug in my headphones and unplug them (or any auxiliary sound device into the jack) the sound reverts to normal, but "breaks" soon after again.

This NEVER, ever happens while I am listening via headphones, or auxiliary speakers.

I have updated all my drivers multiple times. I have scoured Google. I have asked around, and I have no answers. If I knew what was wrong, I could fix it.

I am running Windows 7, and the sound driver is a Conexant SmartAudio HD. (I am not sure what my sound card is, it might be the same thing. I apologize for that.)

After a year (maybe two, I cannot remember) of this, I am at my wit's end. If anyone could help me, I would appreciate it.

Thank you for your time. If you need any more information, I am glad to provide it.

I can't turn my computer on. The fans and lights turn on for a second and then turn off. a few seconds later they'll turn back on and then turn back off. I've had this computer for 4+ months now, i built it myself. it recently started doing this but i'd just turn off the PSU (Power Supply Unit) and turn it back on and it woould fix it. now it doesnt fix it anymore. i've re-slotted the RAM (Random Access Memory) and pushed it in firmly, but that hasn't done anything. i've tried different power outlets and pushed everything into the MOBO (Motherboard), i havent messed around with CPU (Processor) because that's just a pain in the a**... i was wondering if there was anything ELSE i could do before having to take it into a local repair shop, lol.

as for my computer specs

CPU (Processor): Fx-6300 AMD
GPU: R9-270x AMD
RAM (Random Access Memory): 8GB Ballistix sport
MOBO (Motherboard): ASRock 970 Extreme3 R2.0
PSU (Power Supply Unit): Corsair X500 w 80+
Case: Rosewill GALAXY

thanks  You can try a new  RAM stick.
What you describe can be:

• Anything overloads the PSU, or a failing PSU
• Bad memory in the low region. BIOS  can't RUN without it.
• Bad CPU, or heat sink not in place

You can try a new  RAM stick.
What you describe can be:

• Anything overloads the PSU, or a failing PSU
• Bad memory in the low region. BIOS  can't run without it.
• Bad CPU, or heat sink not in place

Disconnect the HDD and the DVD drive. (Power off, of course.)
Power on. Does it  show the  BIOS?

Got my supposedly brand new Crucial RAM sticks today. Bought on Amazon from one of their 3rd party SUPPLIERS. The sticks were not in original retail packaging which concerned me but I figured they bought in bulk and repackaged. Then I looked carefully at the contacts and I could easily see SCRATCHES which looked very much like these sticks have been installed. Then I wondered if perhaps the sticks were installed in a test rig at the factory for quality control purposes. Amazon is going to take the sticks back and supply me directly with replacements which they assure me are brand new genuine Crucial sticks. Question: Should I be able to see installation scratches on a brand new RAM stick?Pieces of RAM are randomly selected for testing beyond the normal automated tests (which can test only the electrical properties). In order to perform a thorough test it is placed into a SYSTEM and real-life tests are performed. That RAM is still considered to be new and put back in with the rest. Of course there's no GUARANTEE that this is what happened to your specific examples, so you may or may not have new pieces.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on April 23, 2014, 03:46:33 PM

Pieces of RAM are randomly selected for testing beyond the normal automated tests (which can test only the electrical properties). In order to perform a thorough test it is placed into a system and real-life tests are performed. That RAM is still considered to be new and put back in with the rest. Of course there's no guarantee that this is what happened to your specific examples, so you may or may not have new pieces.

Hey guys,
I rated my computer USING windows 7. I have been wanting to play some GAMES like dayz and stuff like that. So to efficiently RUN these type of games what WOULD i need to upgrade?

works from a scale from 1.0 to 7.9

Processor- .6
Memory (ram)- 7.6
Graphics- 5.1
Gaming graphics- 6.5
Primary hard disk- 5.9
Sorry guys the Processor it 7.6 We need the full specs, The Windows experience SCORES mean nothing.

You can run Speccy to find them: http://www.piriform.com/speccythanks

I was just wondering if I was comprehending clocks in the correct way, so far this is what I understand.

So there is the clock generator which can either be a clock, a crystal oscillator, or a voltage-controlled crystal oscillator. That clock generator creates the clock signal or clock pulse (which I use interchangeably but I do understand that the pulse is the actual up and down whereas the signal is the transmission of energy carrying information). There are two pulses, one positive, one negative, and within each pulse there are two edges (also positive and negative). The measure of how long it takes for one positive or negative pulse to go back to another positive or negative pulse is known as the period (T). And the measure of how long it takes for one clock cycle to occur per second is known as the frequency (A clock cycle being one positive and one negative pulse occurring adjacently to each other) Now here's where I get confused. Are clock speed and frequency 2 different things? Because I have it here that the clock speed would be the number of pulses per second, but if it's the same as clock frequency, then my idea that it's the amount of cycles per second is wrong. Either that or clock speed is the same as period...

Someone recently told me that clock frequency = clock speed, and that it is just the reciprocal of the period (T) and isn't anything else.
Welcome to the CH forum.
You may be talking about the SYSTEM clock for the CU or the real time clock tact gives the hours and minutes, etc.
Quartz crystals are often USED as reliable fixed-frequency time reference.
A full discussion of Quartz oscillators would take a couple of pages. Let's just say that are in common use in many electronic devices. The accuracy and stability of quartz makes digital processing reliable. An oscillator running at 10,000,000 Hertz could run all day at near room temperature and not even drift 10 Hertz. Or put  another way, one part per million.
Digital dividers are used to scale down  the frequency by some integer divisor.. Also, other types of devices can multiply frequency up by integer multiple.
 The following is an article that gives a basic outline.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oscillator
Quote

Quartz crystals are manufactured for frequencies from a few tens of kilohertz to hundreds of megahertz. More than two billion crystals are manufactured annually. Most are used for consumer devices such as wristwatches, clocks, radios, computers, and cellphones. Quartz crystals are also found inside test and measurement equipment, such as counters, signal generators, and oscilloscopes.

Someone recently told me that clock frequency = clock speed, and that it is just the reciprocal of the period (T) and isn't anything else.

The quartz crystal
Every motherboard will have at least one quartz crystal. This generates the basic timing signal that is used to produce the various frequencies required by the different parts of the system bus, as well as the processor speed itself. The crystal will usually be in the form of a small silver-colored can, about 1/8-inch high, mounted on the board with its top end visible. That end of the crystal will usually have a frequency printed on it, typically 14.318 MHZ (see Figure A).

Been contemplating building my next computer. Then I asked myself "why buy a new case and all new components when I can just replace components when needed?" Unlike a car, the case will never rust out and all parts are modular and replaceable. Assuming I do not want or need a PC much faster or more capable than what I have now, what is wrong with continuing to replace parts? If I build a new PC, I will not get the full value out of the parts I have already replaced. Am I missing something?I put new builds into old cases all the time.It really depends what parts you can actually keep over, and whether it is worth it or not.  Assuming you are talking about the HP in your previous thread:

• To bring it up to date, you would need to replace the motherboard, CPU and RAM all at once due to compatibility issues.
• Assuming your hard drive and DVD drive are SATA, you could potentially carry them over but I'd imagine your hard drive is pretty old so will be slower than a modern drive.  If either of these are IDE, then you would need to replace them.
• Your power supply would likely still be okay for a very basic office system but not much more, it's also fairly old and not going to be particularly good quality so this would likely be up for replacement too.

Those old HP cases are nothing special ...

Edit: I see the free AVG does not have a firewall. Doesn't that concern you?

Ok so here is the question:

Any modern computer with an available PCI slot ( not PCI Express, but older PCI ). If any PCI card is stuffed into that PCI slot populating it, it slows down the system vs the system being run without ANYTHING in the PCI slots?

Now I know that this is sort of a trick question because any extra hardware added to slots is going to add to the resource JUGGLE of the system. But the question is mainly if there is a performance hit for having a PCI card stuffed into a system ( lets say for example a Intel Pro 100 NIC ) instead of installing a PCI Express Network adapter into this system.

While long ago you had to worry about use of older PCI cards with newer PCI cards in which the older card would cause the systems PCI BUS to sync at the SLOWER speed killing the maximum performance of the newer PCI card which has to lag to the slower BUS to accomodate the older cards speed, I have never bench marked a system bare without a PCI Card INSTALLED and then benchmarked it with a PCI card installed to see if there is a performance hit at all.

Personally as long as that DEVICE is sitting idle and there is no traffic to it other than sitting idle, I dont think there would be a noticeable difference between a PCI card stuffed into a motherboard and one without a PCI card stuffed into it.

Figured maybe someone else out there has an answer to this question that was handed my way by a person who had concerns that adding an older PCI card to the newer system would cause it to slow down to accomodate that card?

Personally as long as that card is not a Video Card or Drive Controller, I can't imagine any other card that would slow down performance in any noticable way.I'm fairly sure that it is false. On systems that have both the PCI and PCI-E buses are separate- installing a PCI card will not effect any of the other buses in the system.
I don't  know of any modern PCI device that requires the CPU to slow down when it is not in use.  Nor have I even herd of this question before. **

Now if we were talking about mismatched memory sticks, that would be a different matter. Memory modules can a do have different speeds and  such details are documented.

** But somebody did ask something like that on Tom's Hardware.

Does an old PCI card slow down the system/bus? Thanks guys ... printing this out to hand to him.  So this can now be closed.
For the curious, there are lots of links about how PCI works.
This one is good, but has some rough edges:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conventional_PCI

I just BOUGHT a Apevia Tower and when I boot it up, it boots for 10 SECONDS then RESTARTS, over and over. I have a 750 Watt Coolermaster, i5 2500K 4 gig Ram, hd5850 2 harddrives (1tb).

I've tried switching out the ram and PS yet I still have the problem. Everything is new. I don't get it.... Please help
Try BOOTING system bare minimum hardware ( no drives connected, no video card if you have integrated available )

Does this system boot up bare minimum or not? If it boots fine but complains that NO OS is available and doesnt reboot over and over, then add video card and see if the system is still GOOD or not. If still good then add hard drive and so on until you get to a piece of hardware that triggers the reboot loop condition.Where did you get the machine from?  Those parts are several generations old so I'd be surprised if they were all new.  The only way that could happen would be if a company held onto stacks of old parts.Return it...

I've yet to encounter a case where the Integrated Adapter's drivers need to be uninstalled or disabled.

A system with onboard graphics must be configured correctly prior to installation of the new graphics card to avoid conflicts between the two cards. To configure one’s system on must change the video settings in the system BIOS and the onboard graphics must be disabled in Windows Device Manager. If one is not comfortable changing BIOS settings,

I believe you.  ..
found on eBay.   

The Step to disable the Graphics Card in Device manager as well as the game of magical chairs that you prescribe playing with the Graphics card is superflous and unnecessary in my experience, with the possible exception of a few low-end, older machines.

There are people still using low-end machines.

Also, what I describe is part of the older published documentation of  graphics card makers.

I rooted my phone several days ago with no problems. I uninstalled "My Metro", restarted the phone, and it locked up displaying "LG Security Error Morningcall cannot be verified" The only thing I can do with my phone is charge it. Any help would be appreciated. You might want to post on a cell phone support forum.I have. My big problem is that I can't get my computer to read the phone. My phone seems screwed. It's Bricked. I seen the green robot on the screen.The Forum as a whole has not decided WHETHER we will advise on rooting phones as it's still a contentious legal issue yet to be resolved...
That being SAID i would hunt down a few more phone specific FORUMS...especially for your brand phone.

Good Luck.Yeah. I understand. This is my favorite forum. I thought I would GIVE it a shot. Thanks.It may be something real simple...

Bring us good news.I hope so. Don't really want to spend money on another phone. Do you know if there's a new version OPERATING system (Android) coming out soon? Problem with Android is new ver. don't work on all hardware...do some research on it.

I have a i7 920 OC'd to 3.6 w/ 2x hd5850 & an i5 2500k UNLOCKED with 2x HD 4890. Is this a better config than an i5 2500K unlocked w 2xhd5850 & or i7 920 od'd to 3.6 w/ 2x hd4890. Do not take DX 9, 10 or 11 into account. I'm talking gaming with Dx 10.1

ThanksThis depends entirely on how you're measuring the systems against one another.  The i5 2500k and 2x5850 would be the better all round choice, but for some heavily multithreaded CPU intensive tasks the 920 would best the 2500k.  The 5850s are faster than the 4890s however you look at it so that part is a no brainer.  The 2500k's platform is newer though so replacement motherboards are more easily available and less expensive, and they're more likely to include features such as USB3 if you're CONCERNED with that.

Just want to be SURE, here is what I GOT now

   (2 sticks of 2gb = 4gb total)

this is what I am looking to get:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4779409&CatId=4524


thanksWhat is the make/model number?


Its best to know what COMPUTER you have to be within the manufacturers specs...

I have recently bought a new PSU for my PC. The old PSU was the standard PSU from HP, which had a 4-pin, 6-pin and a weird flat 6-pin connector, which i found out was a 6-pin AUX. The problem now is that my new PSU doesn't have that flat 6-pin AUX connector and it supplies the motherboard with power, so i can't do anything WITHOUT it. Does any ONE know where i can get an ATX to 6-pin AUX converter or have any other solutions for the problem.

Old PSU: Standard PSU for HP 8100 Elite CMT
New PSU: Corsair VS650
PC: HP 8100 Elite CMT; Serial: CZ05054TMWould you be ABLE to post a PHOTO of the power supply connectors and your motherboard?  Lots of those HP machines USE completely proprietary power supplies so they are extremely difficult or even impossible to upgrade.  Why are you needing to replace your PSU?

I bought a used 1880SX monitor.  When I connect it my desktop computer with a normal monitor cable, I get the computer OUTPUT, but I also get a flashing box in the middle of the screen:



I have tried pushing every button on the front of the monitor to make this flashing box go away, but I cannot get rid of it.

Suggestions?

Thank you!

---Dan

What happens if you leave the PC on and power off the monitor for 1 minute ? ?Does it do this with another different computer such as a laptop with VGA output etc. If it does the same thing on a different computer then its the display and may be why the old owner got rid of it.

Do you still have contact with the seller to return it if its broken or was this a blind sale with no ABILITY to get MONEY back such as at a flea market or sold as-is on ebay etc?

There was a flat screen 8 years ago that did the same thing and I diagnosed it down to a bunch of bad capacitors for the logic board for the display which was part of the display interface buttons. I was able to replace these leaking caps and the problem went away. I thought that the bad capacitor issue hit mainly MOTHERBOARDS and power supplies, but this dell display had electrolytics in it that were bad ONES and the ripple was causing for the display control interface to think that the menu button was being pressed over and over again so the same symptoms of what you have with a flashing menu box for the display properties.

More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

H Guys,

Need help with this one. Got three Dell Latitude C810 Laptops and all three are coming up with the same message.
Primary Hard Drive: None
Fixed Optical Drive: Not installed.

I am very comfortable around computers / laptops  and thought I KNEW my way around them until now.

The hard drives are all brand new 40GB IDE hard drives that work fine on other laptops (tested them). The laptops have the HD adapters fitted before I installed them in the laptops. Even bought three replacement adapters - just in case. Did not make any difference.

When the units power up, they go through POST, spend ages on the splash screen and the error messages come up.

The HD and Optical Drive is not registering in BIOS.

I read somewhere to take out the battery, unplug laptop from mains and hold power botton for 30 seconds or so. Tried that no luck.

Also read somewhere to have the Caps, Num and Scroll KEYS all on in or before going into BIOS and do the Alt+E, Alt+F and Alt+B. The Alt+B combination was supposed to be held until the laptop reboots itself. Held them down for almost a minute and nothing happened. Laptop did not reboot. The Alt+F did reset the Laptops Bios to default setting and dates, and nothing more. They still did not register the HD or Optical Drive.

I have swapped out HDs, DVD ROMS, with or without battery, Swapped out RAMs - ram memtest on another laptop. They all came back okay.

This is really thrown me and I'd realy appreciate some assitance.

Cheers guys.

KSDead CMOS batteries ? ?
May be worth trying replacing 1 at least to see...I know this machine.  What is generally called the CMOS battery, they called the Reserve Battery.  It is a group of rechargeable lithium's shrink wrapped together.  You can find replacement batteries, some are 2-pin & some are 3-pin.

Battery is located under the palm rest, see p.20
ftp://ftp.dell.com/Manuals/all-products/esuprt_laptop/esuprt_latitude_laptop/latitude-c810_Service%20Manual_en-us.pdf

Over time, they tend to corrode the circuit board where the connector attaches.  You may have to buy the whole palmrest to get the circuit board & Reserve Battery.


CC...kind of similar to the old cordless phone batteries ? ?
I haven't seen them for a long time.Maybe an obvious question but you didn't mention it so, are the jumpers set correctly on the hard and optical drives to indicate Master/Slave? Quote

Maybe an obvious question but you didn't mention it so, are the jumpers set correctly on the hard and optical drives to indicate Master/Slave?

I have an original CD with music. It shows that CD is blank or other problems (picture on the link below). But 3-4 months AGO it was still playing the music. What can I do. Thanks

http://shrani.si/f/2T/uS/2Fivm4pw/explorer.pngPlease try on a different cd/dvd player such as the one you attach to TV or one in your or friend's laptop.The properties shown in your posted image are correct for an Audio CD, WINDOWS Explorer reports 0 for Used Space and 0 for Free space on an Audio CD.

What program are you using to try to play the CD?  Try opening Windows Media Player and see if the CD is recognized there.

It may be just that something was changed in your system and autoplay of Audio CDs has been turned off.  Here's a link to show you how to check those settings: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/change-autoplay-settings#1TC=windows-7Remove the CD and reboot once or twice...what happens ? ?Restart (even more times) does not make any change. In other devices it also does not work. If I try with another music CD it works, just this one does not show any FILE on it, but some months ago there were more then 10 files (ORIGINALLY recorded and write/delete-protected), I use Windows Media Player. ThanksI thought you stated it was an original music CD.

How does one connect to another PC with the RUN command?

May sound an odd question, but a recent problem I've been having with a game sparked a question. The problem I have with the game SEEMS to be audio related; I NOTICE that at the back of the case it mentions "not supported by all integrated sound/graphics solutions". And also sometimes you find GAMES that say they don't work at all with integrated GPU's, they need a video card, so, could the same be said for sound cards? Would it be better to have one to ensure compatibility with most games you come across, new or old?

I'm just thinking perhaps DEVELOPERS program audio to be done in a PCI-E slot, rather than on a random area on a motherboard or some other chip like a video card and could cause problems WITHIN the game or software itself. Quote from: Tyrone1996 on April 26, 2014, 04:28:20 AM

May sound an odd question, but a recent problem I've been having with a game sparked a question. The problem I have with the game seems to be audio related; I notice that at the back of the case it mentions "not supported by all integrated sound/graphics solutions". And also sometimes you find games that say they don't work at all with integrated GPU's, they need a video card, so, could the same be said for sound cards? Would it be better to have one to ensure compatibility with most games you come across, new or old?

I'm just thinking perhaps developers program audio to be done in a PCI-E slot, rather than on a random area on a motherboard or some other chip like a video card and could cause problems within the game or software itself.

But then what possible reason would a game or application not be compatible with an integrated sound card?

Hi, I am hoping someone is able to assist with my very basic question from someone (me) who is rubbish with computers.

I have a very old Sony vaio laptop model number pcg-5jep and the charger doesn't work. There is no battery left and I have some word documents saved on it that I need to access. I am looking to buy a new charger however when I search for the laptop model, I cannot seem to find any websites that sell it but offer numerous other chargers for vaio but not for the model I have.

So..
1. Does anyone know where I can buy a charger for this model? Or..
2. Can I buy any sony vaio laptop charger and it will work? Or..
3. Is there another model number where the charger will work in the model I have? If so, which model charger should I buy?

Many thanks in anticipation,
Sarah

What country do you live in? You can get laptop charger/power bricks that are "universal", that is, that will work with lots of different brands of laptop. They sell them in PLACES LIKE Maplin and Currys/PC World in the UK. There are lots on Amazon. Most power SUPPLIES only differ in the plug that goes in the laptop and universal chargers often have a whole BUNCH of them in a little bag. Imperial Gadgets (UK) sell them for 47 pounds plus delivery and they mention that they work with most Sony laptops.

http://www.imperialgadgets.co.uk/buy-sony-laptop-power-supply?gclid=CL37_P7qkr4CFfShtAodsSIAZA



Of course, the above suggestions are assuming you actually want to resurrect the old Sony Vaio and continue using it. You said the battery is defunct. You might have to buy another one as well as a power brick. (maybe the laptop will work on the mains power with a dead battery inside?)  If you think those purchases would not be cost-effective then a probably cheaper alternative would be to get the hard drive out of the laptop and put it into an external drive enclosure (a case) and then you can plug it in to another computer via USB and, (assuming the hard drive is actually working and the data is still accessible and uncorrupted) you could copy off the files, pictures, whatever and KEEP them somewhere else, or just use the the drive as a storage resource. If you are seeking a way to recover the items, it does sound like they are precious to you, and in this case you might wish to consider keeping copies in more than one storage location in future. (That is, keep backups).


If you are not confident of doing the above, or don't know anybody who is, most largish towns have computer repair businesses that you can take the laptop to and they will be able to supply a power brick and/or rescue the drive and put into an enclosure for you, possibly while you wait. Do a Google search and find some phone numbers. In the UK we have PC World etc but in my experience very often the smaller companies are very friendly and helpful.
 

Parts used:

Western Digital 1 TB Caviar Blue

Kingston 4 GB 1600 KVR16N11S8

ASUS motherboard P8H61-m LE/CSM R2.0

Lite-On DVD

Intel Core i3-3240 3.4 GHz LGA1155

Windows 7 Pro 32 bit



I built 2 computers exactly the same hardware and software.  One WORKS great, the other has problems.  Not too long after Windows installed it started giving error messages.  I reloaded Windows again.  More error messages that DLL files were missing or couldn't be loaded.  I tried a different hard DRIVE.  It worked great through installing Windows and all the drivers for the onboard components of the motherboard and part way though downloading updates for Norton Internet Security 2014.  Then it restarted itself and wanted to run chkdsk everytime and when the Windows desktop and icons should appear, it would reboot itself and was stuck in this LOOP.  A friend suggested swapping RAM and possibly power supply.  I did that, no change.  I tried a third hard drive and it is the same way except now about half the time when it loads, I have no mouse or keyboard that work.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Quote

bout half the time when it loads, I have no mouse or keyboard that work.

hi. I have xfx amd radeon hd 6870. is 75 c temperature normal for PLAYING videogames/pc games? im running a very graphic intensive game. and yes I have a rise in idle temp from 35 to 45 c, is there something wrong there how to fix the temp rise?75 degrees C? Sounds normal for one with a meh cooler. My 7970 has a twin frozr IV and even play a game as heavy as BF3 on ultra preset, it only gets 65c region. Sometimes 60c. Quote from: jannugimes on May 02, 2014, 05:58:55 AM

75 degrees C? Sounds normal for one with a meh cooler. My 7970 has a twin frozr IV and even play a game as heavy as BF3 on ultra preset, it only gets 65c region. Sometimes 60c.

Also, how well is the airflow for this case. If it doesnt have plenty of airflow you can have temps climb on you. One test I would do is run it with the panel off so that hot air can easily escape and see if the temps drop.

What could be causing this problem (see attachment) I still get EXACTLY same issue when replacing the imaging drum and toner.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]The high voltage head that rides on the drum appears to be not charging the drum surface where that is HAPPENING. You see the text fade out and come BACK. Is this head part of the drum assembly or does it come down from above on the lid to the drum/toner cartridge area? If you are lucky it just needs to be cleaned with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol, although it could be a dead spot in the high voltage head which applies the charge to the drum for the toner to stick to. They make cleaning wipes for these heads which are basically a packet with a wipe soaked in rubbing alcohol. But a q-tip and small amount of rubbing alcohol might remove something that MADE its way and coated this head with.

Hi, I'm on a Windows XP Optiplex, and for the last few days I have been having a problem connecting to the internet, just suddenly knocked me off, and will not connect, always have the red X in the internet connection taskbar...

I have tried many steps correcting this problem, which I will outline here....

First I thing did was contact my internet provider, and they assured me my modem is working fine, and I am able to prove this is true by the fact I can connect fine with another desktop computer, the one I'm using now, I then disconnected the ethernet CABLE from the problem computer and plugged it into my laptop, and it connects just fine, so I know the cable is not the issue.....

I once had this issue a few years ago and just ended up reformatting the computer and that seemed to fix the problem, so I tried this again but for some reason it did not do a clean install, all programs stayed intact, so the problem remains....
And its my wifes desktop so a complete reformat is a last resort....

So considering its does not seem to be a modem problem it must be a problem with the computer itself, any suggestions?

After 3 days of trying I am at a loss what I can do now, short of taking it in for repairs.....

On a side note, I just tried to run Malwarebytes and get this error-

Run-time error, - 2147024769 (8007007f) ' : automation error
The specified procedure could not be found

I was working fine the other day...


Sounds like the installation is corrupt. A repair install would fix the windows errors, but wont correct for program corruption. A full clean install is likely needed at this point. If you know of someone who has a Windows XP Disc, you can perform a clean installation using their disc and then use your systems key on the outside panel. Just need to be sure to match up system disc to XP Home or XP Pro etc.

One way to test the hardware of this computer would be to burn a copy of Knoppix 7 to a DVD and boot this system off of the DVD ( as long as this system has a DVD ROM to boot off of... if it has a CD ROM instead, then you would have to find an older Knoppix version such as 4 or 5 which can fit on a 700MB CD )

You can boot this desktop computer off of this DVD and it will run a Live ( Read-Only ) version of Linux that does not require an install. This Linux distro also supports a vast variety of hardware and so your network adapter should work fine if there is no hardware issue. You can then surf the internet with the browser that is built into that DVD, and surf the web if the network adapter is good. The odds if Knoppix not supporting that network adapter is very very slim. I have only had issues with Knoppix and older ISA cards back with version 4 on Pentium II computers, but since then I haven't found a system YET that lacks network adapter support.I have the windows install disc, an older SP2 version, but again, really want that as a last resort, I was hoping there would be a way of repairing the problem....
And I'm actually out of DVD's right now... I forgot to mention that the internet icon in the taskbar says "Local Area Connection A network cable is unplugged', but that is not the case....It will say unplugged under 3 conditions, one of which you already eliminated.

1.) Bad Cable ( NOTE: You already confirmed that this is not the case )
2.) Bad Network Adapter ( Hardware Failure or bent or corroded pins in the RJ45 SOCKET )
3.) Network Adapter Driver Problems / Device Manager Issue with Windows Quote from: DaveLembke on APRIL 30, 2014, 06:17:43 PM

It will say unplugged under 3 conditions, one of which you already eliminated.

1.) Bad Cable ( NOTE: You already confirmed that this is not the case )
2.) Bad Network Adapter ( Hardware Failure or bent or corroded pins in the RJ45 socket )
3.) Network Adapter Driver Problems / Device Manager Issue with Windows

I have always used Intel with AMD GPU. I want to build an AMD system for the heck of it. What is the best AMD CPU overclocker in the current generations, and what is the best CPU value when CONSIDERING this? Also, I've always used ATI cards. I would like some input into what I should build with an AMD CPU or APU and a NVIDIA card. I want a good and fast gaming computer to add to my collection...
For overclocking and AMD you would be looking at any of the FX range and a solid motherboard - Don't bother with an APU for overclocking.

That said, if your budget could afford an Intel I5 or i7 then there is no reason other than the "I want to try AMD" to use an AMD chip, their current generations perform fairly poorly when compared to Intel's offerings, use a lot more POWER and produce a lot more heat which also MAKES overclocking more difficult.Thanks, Yes, it's for no other reason than trying one out. I get the parts at vender cost and that is 4o to 50 % off
Just want to emphasize part of camerongray's post - get a solid board.  The FX chips are power hungry especially when overclocked, so you'll want one with beefy VRMs and beefy cooling.
Have a look here for further information on VRMs - http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database

will "amd radeon hd 6870" accessories work with "amd radeon hd 7870 or 7850"? im thinking about upgrading but im BUYING used and it comes with no accessories videocared only.What accessories are you referring to?If you are referring to things like DVI - > VGA, DVI -> HDMI or Mini Display port to Display port adapters yes these are universal.

i was looking for monitor for myself on ebay, i found interesting one..
brand name WASABI MANGO anyone has/has seen one???  seems pretty  fine with reasonable price to me.

WASABI MANGO QHD275 dual HDMI.
27"
LED backlight
1,000:1 Contrast Ratio
5,000,000:1 Dynamic Contrast Ratio
100mm x 100mm VESA holes
8 bit color 16.7 Million Colors
2560 x 1440
HDMI x 2, D-Sub, Dual link DVI-D
Voltage-Free (110V to 240V)
Aspect Ratio 16:9
6ms Response time
380cd
178º Viewing angle
2W + 2W Built-in Speakers

whad do you think??I personally dont buy displays through ebay, but instead buy through a known retail chain either in PERSON at a local store or online. Also its a gamble with unknown brands like this. At least through a retail outlet I know that I can easily get a replacement or trade it in for something else if there is any problems.

Here is another person who posted similar to Toms Hardware and the reply is about the same as what I have to say about it.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2117745/wasabi-mango-qhd275-dual-hdmi.htmlThat's another one of those Korean 1440p monitors.  As far as the image quality goes they are really good and are extremely high resolution (2560x1440).  There are just a few of things you need to watch out for:

• DEAD pixels - Some of those cheaper ones come with panels that have a couple of dead pixels, read the eBay listing to see what the seller's policy is on this
• Support - As this is a generic brand, you will be very lucky to get any sort of warranty or aftersales support.
• Build Quality - These monitors use very similar/the same LCD panels as much higher end monitors like the Dell Ultrasharp 27" and the Apple Thunderbolt display.  However, in order to sell the monitor at a reasonable price they have to cut costs in other AREAS which is generally the casing and stands which are pretty cheaply made.  However, they are fine for just sitting on a desk and you can usually attach a STANDARD VESA mount stand if you are looking for a better one.
• Video card - If you are wanting to run games on this, you need to be careful with your video card.  These monitors are very high resolution so you need a really good video card to be able to drive them, otherwise you may need to turn down the graphical settings on games.
• Interface - HDMI can be a bit hit-or-miss at very high resolutions like this.  You would really be best to connect it over the Dual Link DVI connection that the monitor offers.

Greetings!
My GF has a 4 GB duracel Flash drive that asks to be formatted each time she plugs it into her pc. I TRIED to recover the files she had on it using active partition recovery and it says there is something hardware wise wrong with the flash drive. I Right clicked the drive to view its properties and windows 7 says the drives capacity is 0mb. What the?!! I then plugged the drive into my macbook running snow leopard and it too asked to initialize the drive but in disk utility says its a 3.76 i think.. sized flash drive.. which seems about right.. How can i get the data off this stick and possibly get the device to function again?! All ideas are appreciated thanks. It certainly sounds like it has failed. Drive size fluctuating between zero and full size... Some people use a free app called PhotoRec (despite its name it recovers more than just photos), it is a command line app but very powerful. If the drive controller chip has failed, sometimes a data recovery company can unsolder the flash memory chips and place them in a recovery rig, but this can be expensive and not guaranteed to WORK.

http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec

Unfortunately a flash drives do fail, and as they are so cheap nowadays, nobody would think of keeping an unreliable one. Where I live I can buy a 4 GB pen drive for 2 UK pounds, about 3.40 US dollars.

Im using it right now as we speak however its renaming all the files to none, plus creating many other files that are called .apple files. what are these?I believe they may be archives containing recovered Macintosh files, and you may be able to open them using Stuffit Expander. (Question: was the flash drive originally USED with an Apple machine? Are you using Windows?)


Quote from: comda on May 07, 2014, 12:16:32 PM

its renaming all the files to none

Hello,

I have a Compaq PRESARIO v5000 notebook computer. I have a problem with it crashing.

1. When I turn it on, this is what happens:
-Everything works fine until the 5 minute mark
-Fan speeds up
-GPU starts corrupting display
-Computer keeps restarting until it TURNS off.
2. When I turn it back on, this is what happens:
-Fan speeds up, then back down.
-Computer beeps about 7 times.
-Computer stays on doing nothing until I turn it off.
3. When I wait 10 minutes, and turn it back on, this is what happens:
-Go to 1

Need help A.S.A.P

-PaulHow many RAM sticks / Modules do you have installed? If you have two, remove 1 and try with another. If you have 1, then use Memtest to test your RAM. Burn the image in a usb  / pen drive, make it BOOTABLE. Set your first boot priority from the pen drive and let it check until it gives **Pass complete** message at the bottom of the test screen. If you find any errors, it will be shows in red color before the pass complete error message, which means that RAM stick is bad and needs to be replaced.There is a 50-50 chance that it could be either the power cord (brick in your terms ) or the battery. Try running the laptop without the battery ATTACHED (but attach the brick) and see if it works. Yes? Then it is the battery. If it doesn't then it is the charger. I had a issue with my charger and I had to GET a replacement.

I have a Gateway q5wtc. Every time i turn it on it goes to the gateway screen for several minutes then the blue screen of death shows up saying theres a DRIVER POWER DRIVE FAILURE and it RESTARTS but then it gets stuck on the gateway screen again with no loading circle and just stays there...i have no idea what to do.More detail needed.
Is it the 64 bit version of Windows 7?
Have you tried Gateway support?
What is the exact message?
Is it this?
DRIVER STATE POWER FAILURE
The Microsoft website says this has something to do whit the
Symantec Endpoint Protection drive.
Does that apply?
Because this appears to be an issue with a driver, possiby after an update;

Access the Windows Advanced Boot Menu by tapping F8 repeatedly after the initial BIOS splashscreen disappears. If you see the Windows loading screen it is too late, start over.
When you get to the menu, use the ARROW keys on the KEYBOARD to select "Last Known GOOD Configuration" and press enter.

Windows should now attempt to load, if it loads successfully then shutdown the machine (this sets the last good config to the current config) and boot again.

Before i start I should probably mention my PC configs:

MOTHERBOARD - MS-7525
Processor - Intel Core 2 Duo E7400
RAM - 4GB (initially it was 2GB, I  upgraded it)
Hard Disk(s) - 320GB[stock] + 1 TB Hitachi
Power Supply - UMAX SMPS 450W
GPU - Gainward GT630
Lightscribe DVD+/-R/RW

Mostly I use my PC for Watching HD Videos and browsing the Internet, Downloading and stuff.
I notice Laggs when I play Team Fortress 2, GTA SA and other games. There are sudden drops in frame rates even though V-sync is On.

My PC almost always Laggs ,sometimes it crashes showing bluescreens, and sometimes it randomly restarts itself.
My friend says its because, only '20 pin' connector is connected to my motherboard. He's saying I should also connect the 4 pin to the 24 pin socket. When i changed my PSU for the second HDD, it was some tech guy who installed it(I was clueless back then). My friend is saying the lagg happens occurs because my graphics card is not getting enough power from  the motherboard,and I should connect the 4 pin to the motherboard and replace my Power Supply Unit to a 500W one.

What do you guys think What Should I do?An adapter is available.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200064

About $7 on new egg.
If your board uses a 24pin connector, you should always have it connected.  That said I wouldn't bother trying to get an adapter for your current unit which is cheap and LIKELY low quality.  Replace it with a new power supply from a good brand like Seasonic, XFX, CORSAIR or Antec.I agree with what CAMERON stated. Also Power Supplies are not very expensive for what you need and trying to use a power supply not really designed for this hardware comes with the risk of damaging the hardware that the power supply powers. Not unless I was really desperate would I use an adapter for 20 to 24 pin connection.Thanks, I have attached the extra 4 pin to my motherboard & I will surely change the Power Supply Unit. I am thinking of buying a Cooler Master Thunder 500W, will this work?It may work, but Cooler Master is not a high end or better brand power supply. Its hit and miss as far as good ones and junk. So if going with Cooler Master its a gamble.  Thanks for the advice, I will search for a good Corsair PSU on some local stores.

states---2: analog input  in power save mode press computer power button - or press any key on keyboard or move mouse--------- I tried pressing F8  an F2  to get into the BIOS but can not the message as STATED appears on the screen again---this has happened before and an out of state visitor fixed it   HELPIs this a D410 or XPS410 or some other model?

Do you have the system recovery set for this computer to perform a repair INSTALLATION?All Dells are F2 for BIOS entry at power up before Windows starts to load.  If this doesn't work, you're doing something wrong or keyboard is not working.Dell 410 xpsDid a google search deeper on the subject and it appears that Dell Monitors give this message when there is no video signal present, such as the computer itself is dead or video CARD or port is not passing a video signal to the display. As found at the link for 2006.

Has this display been tested on another computer to see if it works on a different system - or - have you tried a different monitor on this computer to see if another monitor will work?

If its found to be the computer with no video output, it can be caused by a number of problems: Video Card, Power Supply, Motherboard, RAM, etc.

You should see POST information or a Splash screen on boot up of the computer. Once we can get that we can start from there to dig further if the problem doesnt go away with simple display swap out or video cable swap out etc.

http://en.community.dell.com/f/3529/t/17910000.aspx

Hello, I am hoping I PUT this in the right section but wasnt sure exactly where it should go. I have a new ((about 3 months old)) Acer Aspire r7 with a touchscreen. Last night when it turned on it said windows had to update. After restart my touchscreen quit working.  I TRIED contacting Acer and the tech on the phone said I had to restore everything to default which would mean losing all my applications I have installed. I really hate to think of doing that as i have several big programs such as photoshop that I would hate to lose. Can anyone please please help with this?
Thank you so much, Becca The good thing is that this is a laptop and not a tablet, and so you can CONNECT a USB mouse to this for controls. With a USB mouse installed, I would roll back the update to a previous restore point. Then with the TOUCH screen hopefully working again, then try the update again. If the update truely is the cause for the loss of touch screen controls, we can go from there and reinstall the touchscreen driver. And hopefully the reinstallation of the driver will fix this. The reason to go backwards first to a restore point before going forward with just reinstallation of the driver now, is because we want to GET the touch screen back to a working state so we know that the hardware for the touch screen is in fact still good.