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I have an issue I hope you guys can help me with. Alright so, whenever I go on the internet it takes a few minutes, and then the screen freezes and I cannot do anything. Notice that the entire computer freezes and not only the internet.
This had never been an issue before it just happened from one day to another. Since I didn't have any internet connection at home I used to use my IPhones Internet on my laptop and I thought it might have something to do with that, but then it did the same after I bought a subscription, one of those USB Internet plugs. When I use the internet at my school this doesn't happen. I really don't know much about computers, I ran a virus scan but I don't know what to do, so I would really APPRECIATE some help. Thanks!Everything is running fine without being on the internet? Like playing games, access various files and folders?

For how long has this been happening ?
Have you made any changes to your laptop lately?


I also recommend getting CCleaner. I using and it is great, it fixed about 2000 broken registries and overall cleared my laptop pretty good. It is FREE and when after you fix registries and use the Run Cleaner option in the Cleaner tab, try to connect to the internet and see if it happens again.

Furthermore have you tried browsing the internet while being in safe mode, asking someone to help you do this?

First of all, DO NOT USE ANY REGISTRY CLEANERS. They cause problems the do cure them.

Second, you said you ran a scan with your AV but you didn't say if if found anything.

Last, do I understand that the computer works fine at school but not at home?Thank you so much for the answers!

Yes, this is only happening at home, whenever I use the schoools internet everything works fine.
This has been happening for a week or so, and I have not made any changes to the laptop lately.
Everything works fine as long as the internet isn't off, which is why I do SUSPECT that something is wrong with the actual internet, although it is confusing me that that freezes the entire computer.
I'm a little in doubt now, as to your very different answers. Should I or should I not try to download Ccleaner?Sorry, as long as the internet isn't on*.
My laptop won't let me go online in safe mode. The virus scan didn't seem to find anything. I think you should trust Allan more, since he is more experienced. Nevertheless, CCleaner is #1 ranked, I have used it and did not receive any error. Furthermore I had errors before using CCleaner and now I am running a good clean laptop.

Though, if in doubt, I recommend getting more information about CCleaner or registry cleaners in general

Also, you do use wireless at your school right?
And at home you also use wireless, or a cable connection?One last quick comment about ccleaner. It is essentially a benign utility that serves ABSOLUTELY no purpose. If you want to use it feel free, just avoid the registry cleaner module. However, as I said - it serves no purpose.

The questions above are good questions - exactly how do you connect to the internet both at school and at home? Also, you said this just started happening - what is new since the last time everything worked properly (new DRIVER, new software installed, etc)? Last, please open Device Manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?
One last quick comment about ccleaner. It is essentially a benign utility that serves absolutely no purpose. If you want to use it feel free, just avoid the registry cleaner module. However, as I said - the utility serves no useful purpose.

The questions above are good questions - exactly how do you connect to the internet both at school and at home? Also, you said this just started happening - what is new since the last time everything worked properly (new driver, new software installed, etc)? Last, please open Device Manager - are there any yellow or red symbols?
At school I use wireless, at home I've got one of thos USB plugs internet thingies. I really cannot think of any changes I've made since last time it worked. There is no yellow or red symbols in the Device manager.

Operating System
   Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
   Intel Core i3 3110M 2.40GHz   51 °C
   Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
RAM
   8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 798MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
   FUJITSU FJNBB2B (CPU Socket - U3E1)   52 °C
Graphics
   Generic PnP MONITOR ([email protected])
   Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Fujitsu)
   1023MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 620M (Fujitsu)
Storage
   465GB TOSHIBA MK5061GSYN (SATA)   40 °C
Optical Drives
   ZKTIXE Z4HA7OH SCSI CdRom Device
   MATSHITA DVD-RAM UJ8C0
   DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
Audio
   Realtek High Definition Audio


Hello! I was wondering, how can I improve my Windows Desktop Aero Performance? I just want the score to be higher



[recovering disk space, attachment DELETED by admin]You could see whether a more current DRIVER for your Intel HD Graphics 4000 is available.  But, even if one is available, it may not make any difference at all or any significant difference. Hmh I do not know which update to download ... Open Device Manager and EXPAND Display ADAPTERS.  Double click on the name of your display adapter (that you see when you expand Display adapters); this opens the Properties panel.  Click the Driver tab and make note of the version of your driver and its date.  This gives you some info for comparison when viewing what drivers are available from the web.

Operating System
   Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
   Intel Core i3 3110M 2.40GHz   47 °C
   Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
RAM
   4.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 798MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard
   FUJITSU FJNBB2B (CPU Socket - U3E1)   48 °C
Graphics
   Generic PnP Monitor ([email protected])
   Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Fujitsu)
   1023MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 620M (Fujitsu)
Storage
   465GB TOSHIBA MK5061GSYN (SATA)   38 °C
Optical Drives
   ZKTIXE Z4HA7OH SCSI CdRom Device
   MATSHITA DVD-RAM UJ8C0
   DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
Audio
   REALTEK High Definition Audio



RAM
      MEMORY slots
         Total memory slots   4
         Used memory slots   1
         Free memory slots   3
      Memory
         Type   DDR3
         Size   4096 MBytes
         Channels #   Single
         DRAM Frequency   798.2 MHz
         CAS# Latency (CL)   11 clocks
         RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD)   11 clocks
         RAS# Precharge (tRP)   11 clocks
         Cycle Time (TRAS)   28 clocks
         Command Rate (CR)   1T
      Physical Memory
         Memory Usage   65 %
         Total Physical   3.86 GB
         Available Physical   1.32 GB
         Total Virtual   7.72 GB
         Available Virtual   4.91 GB
      SPD
         NUMBER Of SPD Modules   1
            Slot #1


Hello again! I would like to buy some RAM, preferably 4 GB, but how will I know if my laptop will support it? I don't recall what type of RAM I am using, but if I get another that is not like the one that I have, meaning a different provider, will it make a difference?

I have a couple of options but I am clueless. Please help !

Kingston 4GB, DDR3, 1600MHz, SODIMM (MB);   Kingmax 4GB DDR3, 1600MHz ; Kingston 4GB, DDR3, 1600MHz, Non-ECC, CL9, SODIMM ; Corsair 4GB DDR3, 1600MHz, CL9

Thank you!
Historically, the price of RAM comes down and the biotechnology goes up. So your motherboard may outlive your RAM.
If you want a rule, try his: The cost of your RAM should not be exceed  20 per cent of the whole system. IMHO.  Thanks, but there are some technical names there like SODIMM, NO-ECC and I do not know what they mean.

They are roughly about 60 $ each.visit http://www.crucial.com/ or http://www.kingston.com/us/ and use their memory search tools.  They will tell you what memory you can add to your computer.  You will need the brand and exact model of your computer. Ok thank you very much ! I also found the data sheet for my laptop which is great !Ok, great, so does it matter if it is ECC or Non-ECC ?ECC is not required. Some think it is a waste of money for a personal computer.
From the Crucial web site, link above, see this:
Quote

ECC vs. non-ECC — What do I Have and Can I Mix?
When adding new memory, you should match what is already in your system. Adding non-ECC memory to an ECC system will disable the error-checking and correcting ability of your memory modules. While your system may still operate, the enhanced features of the ECC modules will no longer be active in your computer.
You can determine if your system has ECC by simply counting the number of black memory chips on each module. ECC (and parity) memory modules have a CHIP count divisible by three or five. This extra chip detects if the data was correctly read or written by the memory module. If the data wasn't properly written, the extra chip will correct it in many cases (depending on the type of error). Non-ECC (also called non-parity) modules do not have this error-detecting feature. Any chip count not divisible by three or five indicates a non-parity memory module.
Using ECC decreases your computer's performance by about 2 percent. Current technology DRAM is very stable, and memory errors are rare, so unless you have a need for ECC, you are better served with non-parity (non-ECC) memory.
...

I want to ask a general question about what computer tablets and their capabilities.

1. Can I use a tablet as a mini server?
2. If I can use the tablet as a server, in theory, am I ABLE to connect many tablets to it? Say for example 30 at the same time? (not running real time generic apps, more on the lines of web based browsers)
3. If I'm running web apps, and 30 people send and receives data at the same time, will there be a massive latency or can this be overcome with more powerful hardware?

The data sent and received won't be multimedia heavy. Also it is for close RANGE use like in a single room, and it will only use wifi.

I'm trying to figure out whether to buy a desktop or tablet for a project I'm working on, still trying to work it out

Cheers!
Quote from: petehope on March 19, 2014, 09:16:10 PM

I want to ask a general question about what computer tablets and their capabilities.

1. Can I use a tablet as a mini server?

2. If I can use the tablet as a server, in theory, am I able to connect many tablets to it? Say for example 30 at the same time? (not running real time generic apps, more on the lines of web based browsers)

3. If I'm running web apps, and 30 people send and receives data at the same time, will there be a massive latency or can this be overcome with more powerful hardware?

The data sent and received won't be multimedia heavy. Also it is for close range use like in a single room, and it will only use wifi.

I'm trying to figure out whether to buy a desktop or tablet for a project I'm working on, still trying to work it out

I have an HP Pavillion a6847c running Windows 7; dual core 2.6 GHZ Pentium processor E5300, 6 GB RAM, 60 GB SSD, using onboard VGA video. I'm having some odd ISSUES, which are totally baffling to me.
     1. I try to change the POWER settings; say to turn off the display after 5 hours of inactivity. As soon as make my selection, the drop down box immediately starts scrolling by itself, until it reaches "1 minute", and there it stays. The OS will not allow me to change this; display power off or how soon to sleep the computer is stuck at one minute.
    2. I open the  Task Manager, and try to scroll down to see the list of services. I get the scroll bar to the bottom of the list, but it won't stay there. It starts scrolling back up all by itself.
   3. The screen resolution cannot be changed. It is stuck at the native screen resolution.
The motherboard USES the Intel G33/31 Express Chipset Family. I've run the Intel Driver Update Utility, which says the driver is current. Has anyone ever experienced issues like this? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
My issues were caused by a defective mouse. Problem solved.Glad your FIXED up and thanx for posting back...

My system is RESTARTING When IM Playing GTA-4 Epsodes of Liberty City.
Iam using the AMD Athlon(tm) 2 X2 255 Processor 3.10GHz with 2gb ram and 2gb graphic card.
please give the solution.1) Go to System Properties - Advanced - Startup & Recovery Options and uncheck "automatically restart" on system error.

2) Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - SELECT All
Go to FILE - SAVE SELECTED Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next REPLY

I am baffled, I have a Compaq Presario SR1403WM, It worked fine for 6 years. Then the power supply died. I replaced it. About 2 weeks later ( I thought) the hard drive crashed, On the screen was something like " boot failure insert boot disk"  so I did a full system restore with the restore disk that were made when I first GOT the computer.  This worked for a couple of weeks, then it crashed again,  so I bought a new hard drive, did a system restore, worked fine for awhile,  Then crashed again.  I did a hard drive check USING the diagnostic program from Western Digital, and it said all was working. When the drive crashed again, I went into the system to change the boot sequence BACK to boot from CD drive, and the computer booted into windows,  Then, it locked up so I had to reboot it,  came up with "boot failure" again. I bought a new SATA cable, thinking that might be the problem, but it still crashes. Some thing is causing the hard drive to stop running.  It has not been on the internet, since replacing the hard drive, so it can't be picking up a virus. There are no beeps, clicking sounds, or anything else I can think of to check. What can cause the "boot failure" to keep coming up?
Any thoughts  would be helpfulA number of things cause 'boot failure' on a system 6 years old.
1. The CMOS battery is bad. System loses settings.
2. Power cables to the Hard Drive are oxidized and wore. But you already checked that?
2.5  Dust has COLLECTED on the underside of the motherboard.
3. RAM chips have become unreliable.Or just oxidized.
4. The BIOS has become unstable. Doing na FLASH might help. Maybe.
5. Electrolytic Caps have become dry. Affects power quality.

That is not the whole list.


Why its crashing
1 bad connection
2. driver not known Quote from: kaleb122 on March 17, 2014, 03:12:23 PM

Why its crashing
1 bad connection
2. driver not known

Why its crashing
1 bad connection
2. driver not known

I'm puzzled by certain results from Memtest68+ V5.01 (previous version 4.0 gives similar results).

I am helping a small non-profit consolidate older machines into a few good ones to upgrade from WinXp to Win7. In doing so I am putting additional memory into the machines we will upgrade. Each of the machines has four memory slots. I am finding that adding memory in the last two slots SHOWS a much slower memory speed according to memtest86+  ???than when the first two slots are the only ones populated.

Here are some results from memtest86+ testing on an e-Machines T6528 with AMD Athlon 64 3500+ processor. Note that all memory components are
similarly spec'ed PC-3200 400 MHz parts.

1GB x 2 in slots 0 & 1: 1919 MB at 2203 MB/s (best performance)

1GB x 2 in slots 0 & 2: 1919 MB at 1186 MB/s (OK that's to be expected)

1GB x 2 in slots 0 & 1 and 500MB x 2 in slots 2 & 3 2943 MB at 1124 MB/s Speed goes from 2203 to 1124 MB/s (that's dramatic)

I've tried other combinations including 4 x 1GB using identical parts and see similar slowdowns in memory speed when all slots are populated.

I initially BLAMED the e-Machines architecture but now find that an HPQ DC5000S/P2.8E with a P-4 2.8 GHz processor gives a similar result. Is this result real and if so is it expected. I would expect memory speed to be uniform so long as the components are the same across the board. What surprised me the most is when I had 4 1GB identical memories installed and saw the decline in speed. That would eliminate any variation in specifications for memories as the culprit.

If the results are genuine then I'm torn between leaving the machines at 2GB vs slowing them down by adding more memory. I know that these machine have done a lot of paging under WinXP and adding more memory will alleviate the paging problem but slower memory speed may be worse, or is it?

Any thoughts are appreciated?

Thanks in advance Quote from: SeaJack on March 17, 2014, 09:25:26 AM

...

Here are some results from memtest86+ testing on an e-Machines T6528 with AMD Athlon 64 3500+ processor. Note that all memory components are
similarly spec'ed PC-3200 400 MHz parts.

1.  1GB x 2 in slots 0 & 1: 1919 MB at 2203 MB/s (best performance)

2.  1GB x 2 in slots 0 & 2: 1919 MB at 1186 MB/s (OK that's to be expected)

3.  1GB x 2 in slots 0 & 1 and 500MB x 2 in slots 2 & 3 2943 MB at 1124 MB/s Speed goes from 2203 to 1124 MB/s (that's dramatic)

...

Until you have 4 matched dual-channel stiks to test it's just guesswork.

Please help me. My SAMSUNG series 5 laptop's adapter broke so i try to use another one but with a much more higher in terms of AMPERES. It is originally 19v, 2.1 amp and i tried to use 19v, 3.3 amp. At first it runs just FINE but after 10 minutes it turned off by itself. Tried to reinsert the adapter, pull in/off the adapter but the laptop never respond. Tried to SMELL the laptop if it smelling something burnt but it is NEGATIVE. Are my laptop fried or something. Please help.

I need help.
What should I do or how to diagnose ?

Acer Aspire V3 - 771G - 6601

i5 - 2450m 2.5ghz
gt 630m
6gb ram

i am dualbooting with both Windows 7 and Ubuntu

Starting games like Team Fortress 2 / Left 4 Dead 2 - Shutsdown computer immediately after loading a map or even connecting to load a map. I have installed both games on Steam in Win7 and Ubuntu as well.
Graphic drivers updated in Ubuntu, I'm still newbie at using this OS.

Note that I have not even entered the game or even played for 2 seconds.

I don't know if this is hardware or SOFTWARE related, most likely hardware. According to specs, the games aren't very high in requirements. I remember playing the last TIME, it shut down and couldn't turn on laptop for awhile, later on worked but can't turn on again until i sent to a technician, but he could turn it on there in front of me.

He sent for a reformat, that's all he did and they removed my Acer Erecovery partition... I have tried the FurMark test, it also shutdown the laptop immediately, literarily immediately as I pressed the "Go" button.

Much thanks for your time in advance.I'd run a memtest86 on this system and verify that it passes about 3 full tests.

Also is this happening both with ubuntu as well as 7? Or just Win 7?Thank you,

I will TRY memtest86 for now. Yes, happens both on Windows 7 and Ubuntu. I might actually try to open up laptop in due time and clean the gpu area, there is a Youtube dismantling video on the same model.

King regards.I'd say its either:

- overheating and shutting down ( heatpipe failure or thermal compound dried up or bond broken between surfaces )
- a fan is not spinning freely and when detected that it stops spinning the system shuts down to prevent damage
- you have a bad memory stick

OR

- a weak laptop BATTERY or troubled power supply with weak battery that is causing a voltage dip and for it to shutdown.

Samsung Laptop
Samsung NP350V5C-A01US Notebook PC - 3RD generation Intel Core i5-3210M 2.5GHz, 6GB DDR3, 750GB HDD, DVDRW, 15.6" DISPLAY, Windows 8 64-bit

Windows 8.1

My NUMBER pad (right side) stops working from time to time. I can only insert 2 numbers then a menu pops up and I cannot enter any additional numbers. The number keys at the top work fine.
Thanks What does the menu that pops up say? It sounds like a feature is mapped to one of your number keys on the keypad. Knowing what is exactly triggering can point to a direction to go with this issue.

Hi folks
i started my machine this afternoon and just thought I would check my drives. I found I had an extra one,  "drive  D"   it's 100 gig and only has recyclebin and System volume info  on it.
anyone happen to know anything that could cause this?

mainboard p9x79* Cpu i73800* Ram 16 Gig Kingston HyperX* Vid card ATI 5770*
 Two esata 2  blacX Docking Stations
Hd's Samsung 250 GiG Sata 3, 3 Raptor 150 Gig, 1 valosa Raptor 160 Gig*
 DVD's two sata2 DVD drives one is a Blue-Ray.
 Antech P190 case with two power SUPPLIES one 600 watt the other 500 watt.
I'm running win7 right now but do use ubuntu about half the time.   I found out where it CAME from but I have no Idea how it was created.
for some reason my system  decided to partition my SSD drive. I never did it
sooo    no one else in my house likes computers or would care to turn mine on.
I usually have to start a esata drive to start it so they wouldn't have a clue.
 Any suggestions as to how this can happen?  You sure it's not 100 Mg ? ?

If it is it's created upon Windows install...

I have a WF2530 which has a broken ribbon cable to the printhead carrier.  (Have no idea how this can have happened).  The are two ribbons and it is the narrower of the two.  Does anyone know whether 1.  this is a job that an AMATEUR could carry out? (have some technical ability and COMMON sense)  2. Is it POSSIBLE to obtain a replacement ribbon?  If not, is it a viable proposition to have it repaired by a competent TECHNICIAN, bearing in mind the relatively low cost of the printer?I am sorry I can't help.  I have the same printer about 6 months old with the same issue.  I'm WONDERING if you found an answer elsewhere?
...or is it just another electronic dumpster filler? Sad. So sad.

hi

COULD you please help.
my HP notepad has HARD disk fault . as soon as i switch it on i see the start - up test . i did run the test and memory test passed.
but when it COMES to check Primary hard disk and smart disk smart both show faults.
i appreciate if you could help me.
Mant thanks
MyaGo to the website of your hd manufacturer, DOWNLOAD their diagnostic utility, burn it to cd and run it.

Hi, I'm looking to buy a new PC and have them upgrade the graphics card but I'm worried about power compatibility so here what I'm getting.

Cpu: Intel Quad Core I5 4570
Memory: 8 GB 
Graphics card:  NVIDIA GeForce GTX650Ti 2GB
Power: 550W PSU with Fan
Mother board: ASUS B85M-G LGA 1150
Intel Original Cooling Fan With HeatSink
1TB Hard drive
It will be windows 7 ultimate 64Bit
there will be no overclocking either.

If seen please give me an honest answer money is tight for me if I don't need to upgrade power I wont
ThanksWhat make/model of power supply is it?  Or do you have a link to the PC in question?That card calls for 400W minimum...around 550 should be about right. Quote from: patio on March 24, 2014, 08:42:38 AM

That card calls for 400W minimum...around 550 should be about right.

....
If you are truly set on that PC, your best bet would be to email them and ask what the make/model of PSU they are using or by buying it prepared to replace the PSU with something better before adding your new video card.  For that system and a GeForce 650ti you will be fine with anything over 500w but it will need to be good quality from a brand like Corsair, Seasonic, XFX or a newer Antec model.  Also bear in mind that the GeForce 650ti is an older model and has now been replaced with the better GeForce 750ti.

camerongray, you need to explain that. Have you personally tested hundreds of power supplies from different makers?  How can you judge a book by its cover?
Please elaborate.

Finally, the cheap, off-brand ones are a really bad idea as they almost never can provide their rated capacity, lack crucial safety features, lie about their efficiency ratings and can damage other components in the system.

There are  many agencies that certify the quality of electronic materials and  assembled units.  FCC, UL and a host of others.

A 'cheap' PSU can be certified by the maker to have a MTBF or 100,000 hours at rated output. Is it a lie? maybe. Who tells the truth. Can you tell from a specification that the maker is honest, trustworthy and reliable?

The Health department can identify the bad ones, but do not tell you which have the most tasty food. You have to taste.

However, one can instigate the reputation of the vendor. IMHO, it is  more of who you buy from rather that what brand it is. So know the vendor.

A nice brand name? How does that help. What makes a good brand name. Why is one name better that another?  Who picks the names?  Does a PSU maker need a PR department?

The quality and lack of safety in many of the cheaper, off brand units is shocking (sometimes literally).  They are almost always overrated - A good 500w unit can run at 500w all day long with no issues other than maybe the fan getting a bit loud, a cheap unit will likely start to struggle and have issues with voltages fluctuating around 250w and will likely fail well before it reaches 350w of load.  They also lack critical safety features like over current protection and have often had filtering components removed causing interference back into the mains wiring.

There is little, if any, legal restrictions to prevent one company from duplicating the same quality of material and assembly used by anyone else.

The basic materials are readily available. More so that almost any other thing in a PC.

Sodhow can one brand be better that another?

Does the name really matter?

There are  many agencies that certify the quality of electronic materials and  assembled units.  FCC, UL and a host of others.

So what research should one do? What do you look for? A nice brand name? How does that help.

Unfortunately, the ratings on cheap or poorly made power supplies cannot always be trusted. For example, I’ve seen
650W-rated units that had less actual power output than honestly rated 200W units. Another issue is
that few companies actually make power supplies. Most of the units you see for sale are made under
contract by a few manufacturers and sold under a variety of brands, makes, and models. Because few
people have the time or equipment to actually test or verify output, it is better to stick to brands that
are known for selling quality units.

What makes a good brand name. Why is one name better that another?  Who picks the names?  Does a PSU maker need a PR department?

Example:  A restaurant may have a very nice French name and a great reputation. True, But does that make other restaurants bad, unsafe or tasteless?

Yet the basic materials are, or should be, the same.

So than, with regard to PSU, are you not going by the  eyes and not the intellect?

A 'cheap' PSU can be certified by the maker to have a MTBF or 100,000 hours at rated output. Is it a lie? maybe. Who tells the truth. Can you tell from a specification that the maker is honest, trustworthy and reliable?

How does one measure integrity, honest and reliability?

Is there a 'blacklist' of bad PSU  makers?

Recently bought a Sony Handycam. Model number is HDR-CX240. I am trying to LIVE stream through this.. In other words, get the camcorder to work as a webcam. It has a USB CABLE, HDMI, and a mini-SD slot..

I've tried doing everything I know to do.. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!! I know that some cameras support this while others do not. The problem is in the camera itself as to whether it is fast enough to be able to encode on the fly to USB communications. I'd contact the manufacturer and see what they say, especially if bought new. This way they can tell you if it supports this or not and if it doesnt you can return it and get a better model that likely costs more that supports this feature.

BTW, the last live stream I assisted with used a Camera + a Video capture card. The Video Capture card took the video feed from composite AV connection between camera and PC and this processed on the fly using the quadcore computer with capture card which was connected to the broadband connection which then fead the video to dimdim which was free at the TIME for video streaming/conferencing and now costs money to use. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dimdim

This was used for a Game Con live stream years ago that I assisted with.

What software are you using to stream with etc?

Even though the laptop is plugged in and the battery is ALSO in, the laptop doesnt power on.  the power led on the front lights up, and the battery led flashes (indicating that the battery is low) , but the computer still doesnt turn on. 

I took the battery out and just plugged in the AC adapter, but no dice.  The power led lights up but the laptop wont power on

I took out the battery, the ac adapter and the ram.  I then pressed the power button for about 2 minutes to dissipate any static electricity, then I put everything back.  But still no luck

any idea what i should try next
A new HARD drive?It's dead, sell it for PARTS. Quote from: Computer_Commando on December 15, 2010, 03:29:49 PM

It's dead, sell it for parts.

what about the AC adapter?

Seems unlikely.  OP said:  "The power led lights up but the laptop wont power on."

I know this is a old thread, but I have searched and searched for an answer for this problem.  These systems, once running, will run for a long, long while.  You ask HP and more than likely get no response at all.  So, here goes... I have one of these systems (HP ZD8000) and it has no power.  Just the little lightning symbol blinking 3 times.  All the little things posted around the net has been tried more than once.  Checked the power supply - Got another.  Checked RAM - Got new RAM.  Even changed the motherboard.  Changed the processor as well.  I know a great deal about systems and I cannot find out what is wrong with this thing.  Any help would be appreciated

Hi! I am new to this forum and wanted a little bit of help.
I want to purchase a new laptop for daily use that includes Internet surfing, watching movies.
Main things which it should have: compact, light, has a decent battery backup. Screen size: 11.6 inches.
I am confused between Intel Pentium DUAL Core, Intel Celeron Dual Core, Intel Atom. Which one of them is better and why?
Other specs: 320/500 GB HDD, 2GB RAM, Win 8, NO Touchscreen.
Brands: Lenovo, Asus, HP, Dell.
So recommend me some models? 

P.S: I have a tight budget.
Pentium Dual-core is usually better than Celeron Dual-core, although sometimes the Pentium and Celeron Dual-cores are the same just different naming. Generally the Pentium Dual-cores will perform better

As far as RAM goes you will want 4GB minimum, as well as I would look for a laptop that does not max out at 4GB but can take say 8GB or more.

320 or 500GB HDD all comes down to if you will be storing large amounts of data at all. The HDD speed is something you might want to look into if proce difference is small between the 320 and 500. I would go with a 500GB.

Recently I bought an ASUS Laptop with Celeron M1000 Dual-core 1.8Ghz and 4GB of RAM with 320GB HDD which came with Windows 8, and it was $279.99 at newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834231360

I bought this here because it was cheap and light weight. * This model does not come with a optical drive, but I had a external USB DVD-RW drive.

I would avoid an Intel Atom CPU because while battery life would last a while with a low power draw CPU, from personal experience with a Intel Atom Netbook, streaming video is very bad with it. That is one of the reasons why I bought this cheap replacement to my netbook.

If you can AFFORD a Core i3 CPU system, I'd go with that. But if your not going to game on this system and just going to use it for watching movies a brand new Celeron M1000 Dual-core or better or Pentium Dual-core is the way to go.

I have since downgraded my ASUS laptop to Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium though because I had some bugs with mouse controls in games with both Windows 8 and Windows 8.1 . I downgraded to Windows 7 and this fixed the mouse control issue. I play World of Warcraft on this laptop with no problems on Normal Graphics settings with the integrated Intel HD Graphics. My framerate is 25-40 fps. It also plays netflix, hulu, crackle, and other streaming content with no problems. *Also this laptop has a HDMI connection and so I can plug the laptop into my large screen TV and watch shows/movies, or even play games through 36" TV.

I havent had any problems with this $279.99 laptop other than the mouse control issue with Windows 8 and Windows 8.1 thinking upgrade to 8.1 would fix it and it didnt. I had a spare Windows 7 KEY from a 3-license family pack that I used to downgrade to 7 on this laptop.Thanks a lot bro! It really helped me and I am LOOKING forward to buy Asus now.

Hello,
My wife has a laptop that has issues with the DVD/CD drive...after numerous attempts to activate it (believe it may be the drive itself) have considered using a flash drive to install a program... my wife has a program she wishes to install on the laptop and I thought of using the USB drive, cannot download the program from the internet.... she rarely uses the DVD drive so repairing it not a PRIORITY at this time...I have a computer with the same windows and software so thought I could use mine to put the cd on the drive and then install it in her laptop..

What would be the easiest way of doing this if it is possible...

Thanks in advance,

Larry WollerP.S. I do have the cd with all the drivers that came with the laptop, thought I may try that also should I be able to download on a flash drive..

LarryWhat app ? ?
It may not require being bootable.
What my wife is wishing to download is software from a cd for one of her programs...it is not on the internet and I have tried to install on the flash drive but does nothing upon OPENING.. it is much like Windows software and also the cd with the drivers is bootable.. if there is a reasonable way to copy the cd to the flash drive, especially to GET the dvd drive working, and get it to work  off the flash drive, that is what I am looking for...

LarryWhat program ? ?it is a publisher 2 COMPU works program and when I put the cd into my computer, it instantly starts up with install wizard...basically what I need is a way to get around the DVD/CD player as it will not work at this time, in spite of all attempts to get it to working...
LarryCopy the entire app to the flash drive...
The find and run setup.exe...
It's not booting...so thats not neccessary...it's using autorun...totally different
Once you copy all the files from the CD to the flash drive you should be able to install the program by manually running the installer.  The thumd drive won't autorun like the CD.  Explore the folders on the thumb drive and see if you can find a setup.exe or install.bat or something like that.Who's feeding the Parrots again ? ?Thanks for the help everyone!. believe I have all the "i's" dotted and the "t's" crossed and ready to give saving to a flash drive and using it a go  in the very near future..appreciate all the assistance!!

Larry WollerLarry,
Installing a program from a USB flash is not hard.
Just do it.
Most often the install file is called  setup.exe and you just click it.

Patio, they gave me an extension on my PARROT flying license.

I'm pretty sure but I just want some confirmation. I'm RUNNING windows 7 (build 7601) and back in november I had to get a new HDD because i dropped my laptop and the disk broke(possibly other things but i'm unsure). I got a new 1TB seagate HDD/SD hybrid (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178340) to replace it and it has been working really well for the most part.

 But about 2 months in I began having troubles installing video games and programs. Usually I'll get a "disk write error" but occasionally it works, but never if it has failed on that program. I can try to install notepad++ and it will fail every time, but i try to install fallout once and it works. It seems like it must be that the harddrive is failing but I have a month left of school and have plenty of important documents/programs on here and would rather try to make it last till may then send it in right now. Thoughts/suggestions?


Edit: Forgot to mention... programs like firefox will CLOSE down randomly without reason while I'm USING them, and some programs close down during use and then can't be accessed again, as if they aren't INSTALLED and only the shortcut is left.
Edit2: Figured I'd try to create a new user account and see if I had any better luck on that, but I can't even access it. It doesn't show up when i try to switch users and when i try to put the pass/username in it fails.You have to send the drive back ASAP.
First, make backups of vital data you have.that bad? alright HOPE they can get me a new one soonSound like it's starting to go bad.  Backup what you can and then send it back, while it's still under warrantyThis is from the CH archives:
Receiving S.M.A.R.T. status bad backup and replace error

Also, the S.M.A.R.T.  is not a full diagnostic or prognosis. It is an early warning and most users should believe it. Furthermore, any sign of hard drive failure is a reason to get tight on the problem.  In some cases the  HDD can fail instantly. With or without a warning.

Can someone answer this: Why is my new laptop slower than my old one?.. might need to return--what should I look for then?

New:
Toshiba Black 15.6" Satellite C55D-A5120 Laptop PC with AMD Quad-Core E2-3800 Processor, 4GB Memory, 500GB Hard Drive and Windows 8.1

Old: Dell Intel(R) CPU; [email protected] GHz; 1.66 GHz, 1.50 GB RAM, Windows XPYou mean that out of the box it is visibly slower?
Hard to believe.
Yeas, contact the VENDOR ASAP.
I say vendor, because in many places you get more immediate results if you complain to the vendor. The vendor may have a refund or return policy.
Even if you really love the machine, your love is in vain if the machine does not DELIVER the promise. It is not your job to do Q.C. for the company.Define slow - EXACTLY what is the problem?It is slower out of the box, yes.  I SET it up and began to use the apps and check things out and everything took a while too load.  I have a much faster loading with everything on my old laptop.

So starting is slow, and every time I open anything, it is slower than my old laptop.The fact that it boots to Windows slower is no big deal - it's what happens after it boots that counts. And let's try to quantify how slowly apps open - a few seconds or does there seem to be a real problem? And once open, does everything then work okay?One thing you may want to get control over is startup items...

DLoad and install StartupCPL from Mike Lin...
It's a tiny app that creates a Startup icon in Control Panel.

Go through each tab and uncheck any items not needed at startup...Do NOT uncheck something if you don't know what they are...
Changes take place upon re-boot.After it boots up everything is slower to open.  On my old computer opening items takes a few seconds.  On the new one, everything takes maybe 10 seconds or longer.  I'm estimating here as I've boxed up the new computer already.  But there is a noticeable and distinctly longer time for things to load--I expected things to load at least as fast if not faster.  Oh, and everything seems to work okay after opening, except delays.Download Autoruns for Windows: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb963902.aspx
No installation required.
Simply unzip the Autoruns.zip file, and double click on the autoruns.exe file to run the program.
Go File>Save, and save it as AutoRuns.txt to a known location.
You must select Text from drop-down menu as a file type

Attach the file to your next reply.Thanks for helping me with this.  Here is the autoruns file for the new computer.

[recovering DISK space, attachment deleted by admin]1) Follow these instructions to disable Windows Defender: http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/21962-windows-defender-turn-off-windows-8-a.html

2) Open msconfig and on the General tab choose "selective startup" (uncheck all three items) and reboot. Does the problem still occur? If not, start adding items back to msconfig one or two at a time, rebooting after each change, until the problem reappears and you'll have identified the offending process. This is clearly a time consuming procedure, but it is the best way to determine if some process loading with the system is the cause of your problem.

After you've isolated the cause, do not use msconfig to permanently disable the process. Instead, if it is a service go to START - RUN and type: services.msc (then press enter) and disable the service OR, if it a program, you can download & run a simple app such as Mike Lin's Startup Control Panel (http://www.mlin.net/StartupCPL.shtml) to enable, disable, or otherwise MANAGE startup programs.

Please help! My laptop HARD drive recently died so it went off to be fixed and came back with a new hard drive. It worked fine for a few WEEKS but has SUDDENLY stopped working and COME up with the  screen in the picture. I'll pay again to get it fixed if it's not a major problem but worried about paying out again if something is likely to go wrong again in a short amount of time. Any advice gratefully received! Thanks!

[RECOVERING disk space, attachment deleted by admin]replace the battery on the motherboard and then reset the bios to default settings.

I turned off my laptop and when I started it up again, I could not TYPE to LOGIN. I tried plugging in multiple other keyboards and had the same result. I tried taking out the BATTERY, and PUTTING it back then tried all the keyboards again and STILL didn't work, don't know anything else I can do.
I have a HP envy
Windows 8

I have a GTX 560ti VID card, And I get coil whine until I put a HOME fan close to my COMPUTER with side open. What causes this. My specs are listed under specs..... Thanks.Please define "coil whine". It sounds like you have heat problems which make me wonder if you are hearing a cooling fan working hard.

well, I hear this sound ONLY when I play CALL of duty MW3 . So I think it puts a heavy load on my Vid card. But it stops when I open my case and put a regular home fan on the computer. Quote from: Mruniverce on March 30, 2014, 12:16:31 AM

well, I hear this sound ONLY when I play call of duty MW3 . So I think it puts a heavy load on my Vid card. But it stops when I open my case and put a regular home fan on the computer.

Hello. I'm  rebuilding an old dell dimension 2100 for the fun of it. It has windows xp on it. It's running 512mb ram, and the original 20g hard drive was replaced with a 7200 rpm 80g hard drive. It currently has a intel celeron 900 mhz processor. 128k L2 cache. It uses the 370 pin-out. I'm looking to buy a INTEL PENTIUM III 1400 MHZ 1.4 GHZ SOCKET 370 CPU SL5XL to replace the celeron. I believe it will be an improvement, and the computer will be able to do basic web browsing. I'm also debating about putting Ubuntu Linux on it. I was wondering if this processor would work in this setup, and if the integrated graphics would still work off the motherboard.

Thanks,
JesseInfo online suggests that the board is running 100Mhz FSB and maximum is 1.1Ghz P3 CPU with 11x multiplier.  As FAR as Pentium III CPU's beyond 1.0Ghz you can RUN into problems with boards not supporting them. The maximum I ever got a Socket 370 motherboard to support which was a Dell was an upgrade from 700Mhz Celeron with PC-100 memory to a 1.0Ghz Pentium III.

As far as RAM goes, 512MB of PC-100 memory is the maximum it can address. The problem with modern Linux Distros are that they have moved on to a common minimum suggested memory of 1GB. There are still some distros that support lesser memory such as Linux Mint Xfce. I have a feeling you will either be running a up to date Xfce distro or you will be running an out of date distro which works better on the limited 512MB RAM.

The last Xfce version of Mint I ran was Mint 13 Xfce on a Dell LAPTOP with Pentium III 600Mhz and 384MB RAM. It ran it, but it was not a speed demon. You need to have patience running these OS on a Pentium III CPU especially if you are running on a mobile P3 CPU with bare minimum memory to run the distro.

But anyways, information online suggests that your motherboard does not support this 1.4Ghz, and 1.1Ghz is what one person posted as working. Another person tried a 1.3Ghz which booted as 750Mhz Pentium III because the CPU is being driven by a 100Mhz FSB instead of a 133Mhz FSB. With this motherboard you are stuck with 100Mhz FSB so your upgrade is limited.

Here is a copy paste from PIII wiki for CPU's that match up with 100Mhz FSB:

100 MHz FSB: 500, 550, 600, 650, 700, 750, 800, 850, 900, 1000, 1100 MHz (E-Models)
Thanks so much for the reply. I found another processor that seems to meet the maximum specs the motherboard can handle. It is a Intel Celeron CPU Socket 370 1GHz 256K 100MHz CPU - SL5ZF.

Here is a link- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Celeron-CPU-Socket-370-1GHz-256K-100MHz-CPU-SL5ZF-/291097624618?pt=CPUs&hash=item43c6c5402a

Do you believe it would be worth the upgrade to this processor from the intel celeron 900mhz, 128k L2 cache that is currently in this machine?

As for the Linux, I have had luck running a retro version of Puppy-dog on an old Pentium II desktop I have. And I have also tried DSL linux and it seems to run fine. I will also look into the Linux mint you mentioned. I prefer the linux mint layout as appose to DSL.

-JesseIf putting any money into the system, I'd go with the Pentium III 1Ghz if affordable. One other thing I forgot to mention is that the Pentium is also stronger with more internal transistors than that of the Celeron. So while this 1Ghz Celeron would be a +128k cache and 100Mhz boost to what you already have, i feel you'd get better performance out of a Pentium III 1Ghz with 256k cache than a Celeron 1Ghz with 256k cache.

If $7 is all you want to spend though, this extra cache would help... just wanted to make you aware of a better choice if your going all out for the maximum processing power you can stretch out of this old system.Ok, thanks again for the advise. Would this Pentium III 1ghz work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-SL5FQ-Pentium-III-3-1000Mhz-133-256-1-75V-CPU-P821-/251280300147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a81791873

It has a bus speed of 133, but I found a site with specs of the dell mothernoard on it and it says it suports a Pentium III 1ghz with 133 bus speed. Once again thanks so much for your help

http://www.ascendtech.us/dell-dimension-2100-motherboard-2e087_i_mb3del2e087.aspx
Dell Dimension 2100 Motherboard 2E087

Item Code: MB3DEL2E087
Manufacturer:Dell Computers
Model:2E087 Dell Dimension 2100
Category:Intel P3 370-PIN Motherboards
Item Description
Dell Dimension 2100 Motherboard Model: 2E087 - This Socket 370 desktop board brings exciting new levels of performance and features to the desktop. These boards are Intel made boards for Dell, so you will see a Dell logo come up when booted. All boards are fully guaranteed and come with warranty.

Specifications:

Manufacturer: Dell / Intel
Compatibility: Dell Dimension 2100
Part Number: 2E087 02E087

Specifications:

Processor Class: Pentium 3 or Celeron (FC-PGA); Socket 370
Supports: Intel Pentium 3 933 MHz or 1.00 GHz 133FSB and 1.10 GHz 100FSB or Intel Celeron 700, 800, 900, 1000 or 1100 MHz 100FSB
FSB: 100Mhz / 133Mhz
Chipset Used: Intel 810E
Memory Types Supported: PC100 or PC133 SDRAM 128MB, 256MB or 512 MB (max)
Number of Memory Slots: 2
Video Integrated: Intel 810 3D AGP Integrated Video Graphics
Onboard Device: 1 Parallel and 1 Serial Ports
IDE Mode Supported: 2 Ultra ATA-66
Slots Available: 4 PCI Slots
Number of USB Ports: 2
Other: PS2 Mouse, PS2 Keyboard and Floppy SupportHemp,

I just wanted to verify what Dave told you as far as the memory usage is of some of the most current Linux operating SYSTEMS. When I allocated 750 MB of my 2 GB to my VirtualBox the system would crash, I had to lower the VirtualBox to 500 MB.  That was due to the fact that my Kubuntu Linux, (current version), was using over 1.25 GB of RAM.

You might try Lubuntu. it is similar to Mint that Dave mentioned, and the system requirements state that it runs well on only 512 MB.

Of course, with 512 MB you could always run a version, say of Slitax Linux from a CD/ RAM only, and it works pretty well.

Thanks for the advise easeltine,

I'm currently looking into lightweight linux distros that run ok on older hardware. I currently have tried the retro version of puppy linux, DS-Linux, and antiXlinux. I have also tried Lununtu, which works, but does not run that well on old hardware. I'm going to be looking into the Linux Mint Xfce as mentioned before, and I'm also going to look into Slitax. If anyone has more suggestions please post a reply.

Thanks,
JesseLooks like that CPU should match up since its listed in the DELL support documentation that you posted 100/133 supported.

However this other CPU linked below is a true 100Mhz FSB exact match. I have read online where some people using 133Mhz FSB CPU's end up with like 750Mhz Pentium III's instead of 1Ghz because of a locked multiplier in the 133Mhz FSB CPU's. And because the CPU is running at 100Mhz FSB vs 133Mhz FSB, it runs underclocked.

 I would trust a 1Ghz 100Mhz FSB Pentium III CPU to have a multiplier of 10x and working at exactly 1Ghz as designed vs a 133Mhz FSB CPU to work at 100mhz and multiplier ADJUSTABLE to 10x in which the multiplier may be locked on that CPU.

http://ark.intel.com/products/27528/Intel-Pentium-III-Processor-1_00-GHz-256K-Cache-100-MHz-FSB

Hello,

My son SPILLED diet coke on my laptop.
When i take it apart i can see it has reached the motherboard.

If i buy a new motherboard,what are the chances it will run again?

Thanks for any advice or suggestions.Remove battery and power plug first.
You may have to open the case to remove traces of the liquid.
The soft DRINK contains:
  Water
  Sugar
  Sodium
These three make a conductive goo that can bridge circuits on the laptop motherboard. Common rubbing alcohol can be use as a solvent. It is both toxic and flammable. Use in a well vented area. Wait for the device to be fully dry before trying to power it on again.

I have recommend this article as a general method for liquid spills on laptops.
http://techchannel.radioshack.com/clean-up-laptop-spills-1421.html
That information is also found on other sources.
Do not use hearse  and dangerous solvents.
Alcohol is normally safe.
But trichlorethylene is not.


Hello Geek,

It has been around 2 weeks SINCE this happened.
I have CLEANED the laptop.

But is it worth my while to buy a new motherboard the spill was'nt a whole lot but
the laptop is dry now but it will not power on.

If i THOUGHT a new board would make this laptop run again i would get one.
I'd take it to a shop 1st and get an estimate before spending that $$ on a new MBoard...
Actually get 2 or 3 estimates from different places.

P.S. Your data can be saved no matter what you decide to do.

I'd just LIKE to KNOW a BIT on what exactly it means and what does it do to AUDIO coming in? Is it some kind of audio enhancer?

I'm mainly asking as I've been having a problem with a game recently, crashing and all, and the culprit so I was told was the sound hardware acceleration. So, I'm just wondering if I really NEED it.

Thanks!

Hi, i own a samsung m3 portable hard drive (1tb). After I tried plugging it into my TV (which didn't work anyway), my computer (windows 7) wouldn't pick it up in explorer. However it would does show in device manager. I also tried OPENING it in DISK management and the window gets stuck on connecting to virtual disk service. can you help me??Please clarify.
Was it ever WORKING?
Why did you plug it into your TV?
Way do you use virtual disk service?
Have you tried another PC?
Possible relevance:
Connecting an external HDD as a Mass Storage Class device.
Quote

With this connection, the HDD can be used only as a storage device. The connection needs to comply with the following requirements:

    The HDD must be formatted in FAT32 or NTFS.
    The HDD needs to have its own power supply, because the TV does not provide one.
    The HDD needs to be connected to a USB input

I have a Dell Inspiron N4110 to which I have plugged Logitech external speakers. However the Logitech speakers have a short cord with them and a family member is always tripping over the cord. This evening, when they tripped over the cord, the computer fell over off of a short stand where it sits and landed on the floor (a height of about two feet from the floor so not a major tumble). This caused the jack from the external speakers to become UNPLUGGED from the computer and when I went to plug it back into the computer (after righting it back to its stand) I saw the metal part of the jack that goes into the computer was bent and looked ready to break off. Since there is no way to replace the cord to the speakers I had to just order another set of speakers from Amazon.

My main problem now is that I discovered that for some reason the computer's internal speakers now do not work at all. I don't understand why. There was no problem with them whatsoever before this. I got a flashlight and checked inside the hole (headphones) where the speaker's jack plug into and there is nothing stuck in there but it does look sightly crooked now. The speakers will work if they are plugged in (despite the damaged plug/jack) but the computer' internal speakers now will play no sound whatsoever when unplugging the speakers from the headphones jack. I'm not sure why??

The computer has fallen down in the past and never had any issue before. There are no other issues with it whatsoever except now the speakers will not work after this latest tumble. I re-booted the computer in case it was some software glitch that happened after the computer fell but the issue remains.

Hi 

The problem is that the socket on the laptop is damaged and will need to be replaced.
The plug on the original speakers could have been replaced as well saving replacing the speakers.
Have you considered getting some BLUETOOTH speakers no cables .
the plug is permanently attached to the speakers so I was forced to place them. Paying for repair would cost more than the speakers anyway.

Bluetooth speakers cost more than I can afford and run on battery. I prefer something that runs on AC power. Replacing batteries would be too costly in the LONG run. I use my computer all day every day.

I was hoping it was some software glitch or something I'm very wary about repair shops and the only one I know in my area is that Best Buy GEEK Squad Quote from: haus_kat on March 29, 2014, 07:33:39 PM

Bluetooth speakers cost more than I can afford and run on battery. I prefer something that runs on AC power. Replacing batteries would be too costly in the long run. I use my computer all day every day.

Yes, I know where to do the connection thanks to u and others, my  only question is which remaining plug to use.
is it a plug that should cover all that area at once...pwr,hd,lens and reset? or should there be a special one? The remaining ones not used is for the pci-e,Sata and a few Molex power plugs, they are not identified. Quote from: Novel8 on March 24, 2014, 07:12:41 AM

By installing the MB in the case, would i still have to short the Pwr sw?

The Power Switch connector is called the power switch connector because it is where you plug in the power switch. The power switch is on the case. it has a connection coming from it, along with CONNECTIONS for the Hard drive light, Power light, and reset switch (if the case has one). These get plugged into the motherboard.

Yes, I know where to do the connection thanks to u and others, my  only question is which remaining plug to use.
is it a plug that should cover all that area at once...pwr,hd,lens and reset? or should there be a special one? The remaining ones not used is for the pci-e,Sata and a few Molex power plugs, they are not identified.

BC_Programmer has it right on.
For years now PC motherboards have a front panel thing that starts the PSU.
So yes, all motherboards have a place for a power start button. Just as in the nice photo BC posted.

Hello, I have a client who has on OLD Okidata Microline 380 printer.  We upgraded his systems from XP to Windows 7.  Now we are having a problem that every page that is printed on a continuous form feed paper on this printer becomes a FRACTION of an inch off at the top of each new page so that after about three invoices printing through the printing NEEDS to be stopped and the form location READJUSTED so that things are printing in the correct place.

I am hoping that someone has SEEN this before and has a solution.  I have tried playing with page height, seperator files, park position, etc, etc with no luck.  Even tried a Epson driver as someone suggested but no luck.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Hello folks,

I have got TTY equipment which has parallel port of 20 PINS; I am looking for an adapter which can convert Parallel port to USB. Please advise if this is possible? Usually Parallel port have 25 PINS.

Thanks,
AJBelow is a google link to a pinout for Parallel 25-pin standard.... There are numerous redundant Ground Pins that if SOMEONE wanted to, could remove ground pin redundancy to GET 20 pins or less.

I would try to find the pin out for the 20 pin you have and make a 20 to 25 pin converter. Radio Shack usually has the DB25 kits, however the 20 pin may be a SPECIAL order item as for the next in stock for Radio Shack is probably the DB15 and then the DB9. DB20 if that is what it is..is a unusual connection for parallel that I know of.

But basically with a 20 to 25 pin adapter if its TRUE Parallel communications, and then a standard 25 pin to USB adapter, you may be able to get it to work, however drivers may be another issue if you cant get it to work with a legacy driver etc.

https://www.google.com/search?q=parallel+port+pinout&biw=1024&bih=629&tbm=isch&imgil=eYAl4bSQLBLF4M%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcTIRbvJeWY4B50xmRMNt8E97N7HQ2d74Xa31Nf5q9CEMbUHjGAF6Q%253B433%253B390%253BWIXmGC19BCuWyM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fen.wikipedia.org%25252Fwiki%25252FParallel_port&source=iu&usg=__mNtd5Hsu3hBByc7tMfGuS0YUN20%3D&sa=X&ei=owc_U6zcJ8WX2QWfhIDoBA&sqi=2&ved=0CCgQ9QEwAA#facrc=_&imgrc=eYAl4bSQLBLF4M%253A%3BWIXmGC19BCuWyM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fupload.wikimedia.org%252Fwikipedia%252Fcommons%252Fthumb%252Fe%252Fe0%252FParallel_port_pinouts.svg%252F433px-Parallel_port_pinouts.svg.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fen.wikipedia.org%252Fwiki%252FParallel_port%3B433%3B390Thanks DAVE, I will try that out.

Regards,
AJHi

TTy equipment is normally serial not parallel. Can you supply some data on the make and model of TTY equipment so the connections can be checked.

I have an old IBM Model M space-saver keyboard which I love and have been USING for years.  Just now when I type the letters j,k,l they are corresponding to the numbers below the letters on the key.  Example j TYPES 1, k types 2, l types 3, etc.  How do I turn this off so it will type letters again INSTEAD of numbers.Try pressing shift-ScrLk to turn on and off the embedded num pad on that keyboard.

Hello,

I'm used to diagnosing and replacing hardware.
I'm not sure how to proceed with this problem though.

I plug in the computer and sometimes it will power up and run for days.
If I restart it ... it will restart and continue running.

I can turn the power off and everything is "ok" ...

If I push the power button on the front of the computer it will flip the breakers beside the kitchen most of the time now.
The computer completely shorts out and flips the associated breaker when powered on.
(in the beginning problems with restarting the computer were rare)

There is no visible damage to the motherboard or the cards in the computer I can see without removing it.
I have removed most external connections with power.

The hardware :
Norco RPC-470 Case
Asus m4a89gtd pro/usb3 motherboard
AMD 905e processor (low power)
Kingston Hyperx DDR-1300 2x2GB
4x hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250
3x hauppauge HD-PVR2 Gaming
connectland USB 3 powered 4-port hub
60GB Ocz SSD
4 x 250 GB WD Sata drives
2 x USB-UIRT
APC Back-UPS ES 750VA

The previous power supplies
500W Nmedia
650W antec power trio

Current power supply
750W fractal design Integra

I replaced the power supplies twice thinking they were the problem, as most times the computer pulls less than 150 Watts at peak via the APC Backups software. (and a Kill-a-watt)

Now on my third power supply in 4 years I'm having this problem more often than not.

I'm curious where to start looking on/in the system to find the short?

If something would just completely stop working I would replace it or if it were visibly damaged ...

Tomorrow morning I will start removing and inspecting all parts and possibly moving it all to a new case.


I've never had to try finding a nebulous short in a computer system that sometimes works and I'm not sure about the safest way to proceed

It's a windows 7 install so just swapping out the motherboard with onboard graphics might be troublesome.


Thanks for your time and any help,
Bobby


You may want to call an electrician. Quote from: patio on March 30, 2014, 07:16:36 PM

You may want to call an electrician.

is an electrical apparatus that provides emergency power to a load when the input power source, typically mains power, fails. A UPS differs from an auxiliary or emergency power system

3
Differences between relevant electrical
standards and market conventions in
both North America (primarily the US
and Canada) and the IEC world play
a key role in shaping the design and
determining the proper application of
products such as
NZM molded case circuit breakers and
NS molded case switches,
N, PN switch-disconnectors,
and combination motor starters in
those markets.
North American electrical product
standards differentiate in signifi-
cant respect between equipment
deemed suitable for energy distribu-
tion (such as UL 489) [1]
versus those components normally grouped
under industrial control (per UL 508/
UL60947) [2]. This type of differentia-
tion is not known in the IEC world. ...

So I am building a PC. Here is my BUILD:

NZXT Source 210 ELITE Midtower Case with 3.0 USB - White

AMD A6-5400K APU 3.6Ghz Processor AD540KOKHJBOX

Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit

Cruci​al Ball​istix Spor​t 8GB 240-​Pin DDR3 SDRA​M DDR3 1600 (PC3 1280​0) Desk​top Memo​ry Mode​l BLS8​G3D16​09DS1​S​​00

Toshiba 3.5-Inch 2TB 7200 RPM SATA3/SATA 6.0 GB/s 64MB Hard Drive DT01ACA200

ASRo​ck FM2A​55M-H​D+ FM2+ / FM2 AMD A55 (Hud​son D2) HDMI Micr​o ATX AMD Moth​erboa​rd

CORSA​IR CX seri​es CX43​0 430W ATX1​2V v2.3 80 PLUS BRON​ZE Cert​ified Acti​ve PFC Powe​r Supp​ly

Will this work?Hard to say. 
Did  you have a guide or commendation used for your choices?
Rather that trying  for something very unique, one could parrot a sedslection used by somebody else.
Even the Mass Market companies are NOTING what things people want. Take a looik at this:

Make your own Gaming Machine from Wlamart.
Really. They picked lout some nice parts a fair prices.

They offer the unlocked AMD FX.
That will work fine assuming you don't need extreme gaming performance.

The only change I would make would be to swap that motherboard out for one from Gigabyte or ASUS - AsRock are a budget brand.

Quote

Make your own Gaming Machine from Wlamart.
Really. They picked lout some nice parts a fair prices.

They offer the unlocked AMD FX.

I have a CANNON MP530 printer.  There's two problems.  #1 - PRINTING LINES vary in darkness alternating dark and light for each printed line.  #2 - The back side of my pages are now coming out with a vertical 1/4" wide solid black INK line, top to bottom.  It can be seen through from the front side.  The dark line occurs also when just copying.   I APPRECIATE any help you can give me.  Micromos

i put a new pc togther i changed the boot order can access the bios but when i go to load my os which is windows 8.1 brand new it freezes on the first pop up with the 4 square logo and nothing more everything is new so thought maybe ive got a defective part ive now changed the motherboard, cdrom, hdd and my amd 4300 fx cpu and got the same thing anyone have any ideas? i dont know what else to do With another computer your can download a CD that will boot up your PC, if possible. But before you do that, some questions.
How did you install Windows 8?
Do you also have the CD that goes within he motherboard?
Can you boot the computer using any on-board video instead of the graphics CARD?



i havent been able to load windows it freezes when i try i have a fx4300 amd has graphic so no video card.and i have the motherboard disk like i SAID i just bought it all weird deal man i dont know what else to do
The first time you do an install it is better to not have another graphics card in  PLACE. I already asked you if the motherboard has its own video, If so, install with just that video device, not with the fx4300.
Windows 8 will install with a generic video device. Have you been able to do that?hmmm should i take the cpu out ists a amd fx4300 i do not have a graphics card
i went for a simple build motherboard is a gigabyte 78lmt-usb3 cpu chip is amd fx4300 has a asus cdrom wd 500gb hdd cooler MASTER 600 w power supply ram is kingston hyper genesis 2 sticks 8g each Quote

fx4300

What exactly does it say on this Win8.1 DVD ? ?

i just buy Western Digital MyPassport  1TB
but i have problem that this hard drive portable won't boot if it's connected to my laptop Acer Aspire 4920 , it stuck at acer logo screen, after i unplugged it, it boot just fine. Any SOLUTION for this?
it only happen at my laptop and it's working fine at my PCYou can't run Windows from an external HDD...this is by design.i am not running windows from the WD Hard drive.
What i mean is, the WD hard drive only stay plugged, and i have my first boot device set to laptop hard drive, and it stuck won't boot, i am not booting from my external WD. Just the device stay plugged in and my laptop stuck at acer logo screen.Then don't stste external won't boot in your Topic when thats not what your TRYING...
Does the laptop boot properly with the WD unplugged ? ?
If so do that....then wait 5 minutes and connect the WD...report back with results...
P.S. Whats on the WD and did it work before ?yes, it's working if it stay unplugged.
there's some file installer in the WD and some document only, it's working fine in windows, just won't boot if it plugged. I NEED to unplug it everytime i restart my laptop so it's not very CONVENIENT. I would run chkdsk /r on it if it were me...somethings amiss...

I was wondering if anyone new where the cmos BATTERY is located on an Acer Aspire e1-521

Im trying to get into bios to change the settings for my cousins LAPTOP and it want the password and she cant remember it so i was going to take the battery out and put back in to reset it but i cant seem to find it


thanks.Do you have this?
http://www.manualrepubliccdn.com/pdf/acer/gug-acer-1-0-en.pdf
Acer System User Guide
I looked at that and did not find anything.
A better choice:
httpq//www.manualslib.com/manual/440294/Acer-Aspire-E1-521.html?page=2#manual

So, does Acer really sell computers without letting people know how to service them? Why should it be so hard to locate the battery?

EDIT: Wow, Acer really makes THINGS hard for users. That second link is malware. YES, I blame Acer for being so dumb as to not help their customers and letting them swim with malware sharks in the cyber-sea.Sorry to bear bad news but on a laptop removing the CMOS battery will not re-set the password.
It needs to be taken to an Authorised Service Center for that...
Be prepared to show Proof of Ownership or they won't do it.Thanks for the tips people...i guess the only way of doing this from what im reading is by using a conductivity tool to BRIDGE the jumper.They don't make it hard at all. It took me about 30 seconds to find the manual at

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/440294/Acer-Aspire-E1-521.html?page=98

Click "Download Manual (234 pages, 11.2 Mb)". It's all in there. How to access and remove the RTC battery is on page 5-41, and how to short the CMOS is on Page 3-8. Quote from: patio on April 04, 2014, 10:15:48 AM

Sorry to bear bad news but on a laptop removing the CMOS battery will not re-set the password.
It needs to be taken to an Authorised Service Center for that...
Be prepared to show Proof of Ownership or they won't do it.

will this work with windows 8? "EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB GRAPHICS Card (1024 MB, GDDR5, PCI-E 2.0 16x, DVI-I x 2, Mini-HDMI, SLI-Capable)"?How many Topics are you gonna start for this build ? ?
Please start just 1 and keep all INFO in that. Quote from: patio on April 09, 2014, 05:22:21 PM

How many Topics are you gonna start for this build ? ?
Please start just 1 and keep all info in that.

I want a build that can reach 60fps in BF4 on 1080p max settings but I dont need anti aliasing and stuff like that.

I'm talking about multiplayer not campaign, I know they have performance differences.

It doesn't have to be a "stable" 60fps, I dont mind if the frames drop to 40 every once in a while, just not frequently.

I dont have a legitimate budget but I dont want to spend more then what is necessary for my performance needs, for example if I can get 60fps with a $500 build then PLEASE DO NOT recommend a $900 build because its more "future proof" or it "looks cooler".

I want a 1tb HDD

Thanks   For $500 it can be done by buying a 2nd hand computer and installing a higher end video card into it. HOWEVER you would also likely have to upgrade the PSU as well to support the video card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883220353 = $270 ... this leaves $230 free for $500 budget.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438016  =$40  ... this leaves $190 free for $500 budget.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150687  = $190 ... This card req 500watt PSU minimum.

This assumes that you already own display to go to this display setting and already own the BF4 game.

*** This is a REALLY TIGHT build at $500, and its seriously cutting corners to squeeze out as much GPU as possible to get the fps you need, however the APU may bottleneck the cards full potential. This APU meets the system requirements according to Core 2 Duo which scores around the same as this APU. BF4 system requirements show minimum of Core 2 Duo even though its suggested to have a quadcore.

There is no guarantee that you will get 60fps constant at that resolution with this hardware as for the APU/CPU is not high end. If you had more money to throw at this you'd be better off... or if you have a prior system you are upgrading and keeping everything but need a new Motherboard, CPU, RAM, 1TB HDD, and Video card, but of which already have OS, Case, and Power Supply that is like 600watts, then more money ( around $440 ) can be allocated to the Motherboard, CPU, RAM, Video Card, and a $60 1TB HDD. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339

Hopefully you didnt think that a display could get squeezed in as well in just $500 budget unless you can find a free one. I almost didnt bother assisting with this only because I thought it couldnt be done, but I figured I'd take on the challenge of piecing this together out of mere curiosity if it could be done by going with 2nd hand system. With brand new, it definately wouldnt happen unless you find a clearance box and get lucky on FINDING the other components needed to fit within $500. 



Hello its me the thread starter.

Now I'm thinking that  when playing 64 PLAYERS I dont need max [email protected], That would be reserved for 32players and under. For 64 players I only need [email protected]

Also I was thinking about this build, would it be enough?

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3p8RF
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3p8RF/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3p8RF/benchmarks/

CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor  ($109.99 Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI 760GM-P23 (FX) Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard  ($44.67 Amazon)
Memory: Crucial 2GB (1 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 Memory  ($20.09 B&H)
Memory: G.Skill AEGIS 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  ($34.00 Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($54.99 NCIX US)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card  ($236.99 Amazon)
Case: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($29.99 Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply  ($39.99 Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)  ($89.98 OutletPC)
Total: $675.68
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-09 21:59 EDT-0400)This is better because you have more than $500 to allocate with what you suggested for hardware.

Only concern I have is with this: Quote

Case: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case

"Raygo MT MicroATX Computer Case" or "ULTRA X-Blaster Mid-Tower V2" Case?Instead of starting a new thread for each component, I'd suggest you list everything you intend to PURCHASE in one thread.That was mentioned to him...apparently he didn't QUITE understand...

So I had my dual-network adapter server running dual-BOOT as well for a while now with no problems. OS is Windows XP Pro SP3.

I installed Fedora 20 to the Linux allocation that I have on the first hard drive and Windows XP SP3 ran fine with no problems. And both network adapters worked with no problems both the nVidia INTEGRATED and the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC.

I then decided to switch Linux Fedora 20 for the latest Mint 16 instead, and grub took the changes fine. Windows was unaltered on its other partition. Both Mint 16 and Windows XP Pro SP3 still work fine.

I went to access data on this system which acts with shares over a cross over cable to my other system and its now no longer working. Look in Network Properties and the Intel Pro 100+ Managed is listed, but the nVidia integrated NIC is gone. Looking in Device manager no second NIC is listed.

Now here is where it really gets strange. The integrated nVidia NIC is the one that  is connected to the router for internet traffic, and the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC is the one that has a cross over cable to the other system. I can access the internet and I see traffic at the rear of the computer at the nVidia NIC port, yet the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC shows no activity. In the system properties it shows that the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC is the only NIC available, yet the system is communicating through the integrated nVidia NIC.

Also, I flashed the ROM on this Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC years ago to enable PXE, and also in the boot order, it does the cartwheel at DHCP looking for PXE and I hit ESC key to bypass this. So the NIC is functioning at the lowest level.

Has anyone ever seen a hardware failure or Windows corruption where it claims its communicating through one Network Adapter and Lists that one network adapter in Device Manager and is clearly using the other?

I am thinking that i am going to have to just wipe this drive and start fresh again because I feel that it may not be hardware related and may be somehow a corruption to the Windows INSTALL as a result of the swap of Fedora 20 for Mint 16. Although it makes no sense that Linux would touch the other Windows NTFS partition at all.

Also IPconfig shows the dynamic IP to the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC, yet it should have a static IP since that is a cross over cable connected NIC to the other system.

Posted this here in case anyone seen this before to point out the cause. Its a real head scratcher, although I have a feeling that a clean install of Windows and then Linux to the empty HDD space will cure it.

Never ever have I seen one device acting as the other etc, especially when the chips are so different, so its not like the Intel Driver should function as the nVidia chip. *Also I tripple checked my network cables to make sure that what I was seeing was what i really was seeing. The cross over is direct between the file server with this issue and the gaming rigs 2nd NIC. * Also the gaming rig is not set up as a gateway and the traffic is clearly running through the nVidia integrated NIC which shows linked and blinking activity.I honestly couldn't figure out your current setup. You mention switching to Fedora, but then you talk about ipconfig and Device Manager, and then there is some other computer involved across the network (?)Sorry about that... was pressed for time when posting this earlier, but can explain better now.

System that has this issue is a system that I have running as a file server mainly, among other duties it serves for PROCESSING  video encoding raw video files so that my main system isnt lagged out through processing videos of captured online game events in which I take like 20GB Fraps video files and vdub process them to a better smaller avi format to share online on youtube.

The 2nd NIC's of these systems is used mainly as a direct network connection to transfer large amounts of data between the systems without affecting the rest of my home network with others who are streaming netflix or trying to use the Vonage phone at the same time.

System Specs are:

Computer #1 - Acts as a File Server / Processing of Large Video Files etc

Athlon X2 215 2.7Ghz
2GB DDR3 1333Mhz
GeForce GT430 PCIE16 video card with 1GB RAM
Drive 1 = 60GB SATA ( Laptop Hard Drive Multi Partition for Linux and Windows XP Pro SP3 and Grub managing the bootloader)
Drive 2 = 500GB SATA II ( Data & Data Processing Drive )
Network Adapter # 1 = nVidia Integrated NIC ( Connected to Router with IP Reservation / Internet Access )
Network Adapter # 2 = Intel Pro 100+ Managed PCI NIC ( Cross over Cable to gaming Computer #2 Static IP )



Computer #2 - Gaming System / Capturing Live Game Content with Fraps

Athlon II x4 620 2.6Ghz
8GB DDR3 1600Mhz
ASUS ATI HD5450 PCIE16 video card with 1GB RAM
Drive 1 = 240GB SATA II Corsair SSD ( OS Windows 7 64-bit & Games )
Drive 2 = 500GB SATA II (Data & Location that Fraps saves large video files to that are captured from in game )
Network Adapter # 1 = Realtek 100 NIC Integrated ( Connected to Router dynamic IP no reservation / Internet Access )
Network Adapter # 2 = Intel Pro 100+ Managed PCI NIC ( Cross over Cable to Server Computer #1 Static IP )

So computer #1 states that its using the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC, yet its clearly using the integrated nVidia NIC. NIC #2 which is the Intel Pro shows no link and no activity. Computer #2 can not ping Computer #1 through the cross over, because the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC is not functioning. Yet Computer #1 is communicating through the nVidia NIC and yet in Device Manager and IP config it states that its the Intel Pro 100+ Managed NIC that its using.

Never ever have I seen such an oddity with Windows XP Pro SP3 and a NIC not functioning and another functioning as it. 

Lastly Linux is on this Computer #1 system so that when I am not processing files or using it as a file server, it acts as my Linux Workstation.

Everything was working fine up until I decided to replace Fedora 20 with Mint 16 on a different partition of Drive #1. Upon the reboot after this is when this strange Network Hardware/OS issue occurred with Windows XP Pro SP3 on that same system to where the system is seriously confused. And the strangest part about this is that Linux should not have affected the Windows partition to cause any corruption.

One process I was thinking I could try before a full rebuild is to remove this NIC #2 from Computer #1 and boot the system and then shut down and then reintroduce the NIC #2 and maybe it will detect the hardware change and straighten itself out. Otherwise its looking like a clean install of Windows to the first partition and then Linux Mint build its partition(s) to the unallocated space is what I will have to do.
If anyone ever has a similar problem, repair install of Windows XP Pro SP3 fixed the problem.

Here are steps I tried before the repair install:

1.) Remove Intel Pro 100+ Managed PCI NIC and reboot system
2.) With Intel Pro 100+ Managed PCI NIC removed, I reinstalled the driver for the nVidia Integrated NIC and driver complained that hardware was not found.
3.) Reinstalled the Intel Pro 100+ Managed PCI NIC
4.) Booted to the Linux Mint 16 and both NICs found, as well as both will uplink

Decided to perform repair install instead of clean install.

Performed Repair installation to Windows XP Pro SP3 and problem solved.So actually it was fixed before the Repair Install it seems...
Quote

4.) Booted to the Linux Mint 16 and both NICs found, as well as both will uplink

Hello i have a problem it started about 2 day's ago . When i tried to power my PC for the first time i had to push power button until  my pc started working (sounds were like an OLD engine is STARTING) The next day it wouldn't START and i had to take cmos battery and put it on again and once again pc powered on but like an old engine. So my question of the day is: would replacing cmos battery solve my problem or only replacing power supply will work magic on my machine? (I know there are similar problems but never found anywhere the same problem as i had either people had problems with cmos or pc turing on like and old engine.I personally dont see how replacing the battery would help you in any way. When your Computer is loud (like constantly, not the stuttering sound of a harddrive that is under high workload), its usually the fans doing it. So maybe chek the settings for those if you can (catalyst control center or nvidia thingy)I know it wouldn't help just to confirm my theory . And not loud i mean it starts like an engine that is failing i mean you push it and it try's to start the engine i have to hold power on button for 5 - 6 secs for it to start and in those seconds he makes a sound that he tries to start but actually can't do it  and only after those 5 seconds he finally powers on when i shut down my pc i have to remove and place back my cmos battery in order to start and the process just keeps rotating . (When i shut it down and try to turn it on again it completely ignores the power button and is practically dead the only thing that helps me right know is removing and putting cmos battery again and again)Did you build this PC ? ?
You might want to check that the front panel header connectors are correct...power/re-set/hddLED etc.

P.S. The CMOS battery wouldn't cause this condition but i would replace it anyways...No i didn't build it + a person who built it made it like 3-4 years ago and this problem appeared only now  my theory is that my power supply might be dying but i don't know for sure because i find it very strange that making this trick with battery actually fixes it for a period of 1 pc session so i wan't to clear things out . Also i have a theory that my pc doesn't have enough power to start yet it has enough power to sustain session but i find it very strange that i need to hold "power button" for few seconds for it to power on and meanwhile i'm holding power button i hear like it's trying to start (sound is like when you're trying to start your engine without LUCK) and then after few seconds of those sounds it finally decides to turn on. Step 1) Replace CMOS battery...Part# CR2032...available anywhere.

Step 2) BORROW a known good PSU from a friend of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there overnite...you'll know by morning.

I really don't know if this is a hardware or software related PROBLEM. Immediately before this problem, Windows 7 used to have a restart loop on startup. Windows now works because I had to uninstall Windows 7 and reinstall. Then I started having the problem mentioned above. It is an Alienware Aurora R3, (NvidiaGeforce GTS 450 graphics card). I checked the cooling fans and there is no dust. There is no visible problem inside the CPU but all I did was remove the cover from the case. I didn't actually take components apart. A year ago a professional cleaned it up so I'm assuming it can't really be dirty. Problem Signature:

Problem signature:
  Problem Event Name:   BlueScreen
  OS Version:   6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
  Locale ID:   1033

Additional information about the problem:
  BCCode:   116
  BCP1:   FFFFFA80074DA4E0
  BCP2:   FFFFF8800539AE90
  BCP3:   FFFFFFFFC000009A
  BCP4:   0000000000000004
  OS Version:   6_1_7601
  Service Pack:   1_0
  Product:   768_1

Files that help describe the problem:
  C:\Windows\Minidump\032714-21184-01.dmp
  C:\Users\Owner\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-31200-0.sysdata.xml

If this gives you any clue what might be going on with my computer, let me know. Thanks.Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply==================================================
Dump File         : 032714-21184-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/27/2014 7:01:18 AM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000116
Parameter 1       : fffffa80`074da4e0
Parameter 2       : fffff880`0539ae90
Parameter 3       : ffffffff`c000009a
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000004
Caused By Driver  : dxgkrnl.sys
Caused By Address : dxgkrnl.sys+5d140
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032714-21184-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 586,352
Dump File Time    : 3/27/2014 7:02:04 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032614-27378-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/26/2014 4:15:25 PM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000116
Parameter 1       : fffffa80`078aa010
Parameter 2       : fffff880`0533ae90
Parameter 3       : ffffffff`c000009a
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000004
Caused By Driver  : dxgkrnl.sys
Caused By Address : dxgkrnl.sys+5d140
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032614-27378-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 680,040
Dump File Time    : 3/26/2014 4:25:39 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032614-22027-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/26/2014 3:01:32 PM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000116
Parameter 1       : fffffa80`062174e0
Parameter 2       : fffff880`0536be90
Parameter 3       : ffffffff`c000009a
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000004
Caused By Driver  : dxgkrnl.sys
Caused By Address : dxgkrnl.sys+5d140
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032614-22027-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 498,968
Dump File Time    : 3/26/2014 3:02:22 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032614-19936-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/26/2014 2:13:17 PM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000116
Parameter 1       : fffffa80`040b44e0
Parameter 2       : fffff880`053a2e90
Parameter 3       : ffffffff`c000009a
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000004
Caused By Driver  : dxgkrnl.sys
Caused By Address : dxgkrnl.sys+5d140
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032614-19936-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 599,528
Dump File Time    : 3/26/2014 2:14:08 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-25147-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:23:32 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e86c3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-25147-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 286,848
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:24:20 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-24445-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:22:13 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e9ac3f
Caused By Driver  : fltmgr.sys
Caused By Address : fltmgr.sys+49aa
File Description  :
Product Name      :
Company           :
File Version      :
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-24445-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 286,848
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:23:01 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-23992-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:16:53 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e8ac3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-23992-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 286,848
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:17:44 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-24726-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:15:33 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02ecec3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-24726-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 286,848
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:16:21 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-28828-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:10:35 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e7fc3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-28828-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 282,048
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:12:00 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-27315-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:08:35 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e8ac3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-27315-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 282,048
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:09:56 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-28158-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:06:42 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e94c3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-28158-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 282,048
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:08:06 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-26457-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:04:52 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02ecdc3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-26457-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 282,048
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:06:09 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 032114-28392-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 3/21/2014 5:03:00 PM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : 00000000`00000002
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000001
Parameter 4       : fffff800`02e7ec3f
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\032114-28392-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 7601
Dump File Size    : 282,048
Dump File Time    : 3/21/2014 5:04:24 PM
==================================================

1) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2) Please go to the Nvidia website and download and install the current driver for your video card (uninstall the old driver first).

3) Download and install the latest release of Direct-X

4) Check for a bios update

5) After doing all of the above, please look in device manager and see if there are any yellow or RED symbols.- BIOS, Direct-X etc. are all up to date.

- No yellow or red symbols in Device Manager.

- The problem started about a week after downloading a new game. This game seemed to have more than the usual problems immediately after downloading. It will often kick me off the server while playing. I don't know if the game is the root of the problem. The computer hasn't shut down unexpectedly for 3 days now. Maybe the problem has been resolved but I'll wait and see. Quote from: DietSoda on March 29, 2014, 10:36:18 AM

...The problem started about a week after downloading a new game...

Hello, EVERYONE.

I'm hopeful someone can help me with an issue I'm having. Many thanks in advance for any and all responses. The basics of my problem are this:
1. My usb wired mouse is not WORKING properly as it routinely will suddenly stop working. The laser light will TURN off, and the cursor will become unresponsive. However, a quick unplug/re-plug out of and back into its usb port (or any of the three other ports on my desktop) will immediately fix the unresponsive/undetected mouse...until it very soon happens again.

Two important side notes: 1.) The mouse itself doesn't appear to be the problem as it works just fine on other machines, and 2.) I, just this evening, INSTALLED a linux os alongside XP on my hard drive, and guess what? The mouse worked perfectly fine for over an hour without a hitch!

The fact that it works fine on Linux tells me there's probably some sort of issue involving XP or other software, but I really can't be sure. Again, thanks for any and all help!Would be helpful to have hardware specifics. What do you have for make/model computer and OS or if custom built all specs and MOTHERBOARD make/model etc?

I feel your dealing with a driver issue.

which is better in CPU, more GHz, CORES, bus speed, or CACHE? or something else?This is getting beyond a joke now - You have been told in every thread you have created to stop making new threads and to post in your original one yet you have completely ignored this and are continuing to CREATE new threads.  This is completely cluttering up the forum and making it difficult for people to USE it.

You have now created 8 TOPICS, all other people take one for their builds!Topic Closed.