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Can anyone please help me? I have a dell inspiron N5110 for about 2-3 years. I think I had some hard drive problems so I ordered a new one and just installed it into my laptop. When I hit the power button, I get a disk I/O error, then a media test failure. When I look in the BIOS, I see my driver there and the dell diagnostic doesn't show an  rror anymore. Attached is a picture of the screen i see.

[recovering disk space, attachment DELETED by admin]You need to go into the bios and change the boot order so the hd is the first boot device. Also, before you do that replace the battery on the motherboard.Have you reinstalled Windows on the new hard drive?His system is trying to boot to a network drive, not the hd. Doesn't matter if Windows is installed or not, he needs to replace the battery and change the boot order.ok ill try that, what happens if you dont replace the battery and what order should it be in? Thanksok yea i just replaced the battery and changed the order so that the COMPUTER will boot the hd first. Im still GETTING the same message:( help?In your BIOS, look for an option that says something like "Boot to network". Change it to Disabled. Also, in the boot order, make sure "network" should be in the end or if allowed, keep first boot device as Hard Drive, second as dvd writer and rest all disabled. SAVE and reboot the system. Quote from: Allan on January 11, 2014, 07:48:28 AM

You need to go into the bios and change the boot order so the hd is the first boot device. Also, before you do that replace the battery on the motherboard.

Hi guys. I like to think I know computers pretty well, but I'm baffled. I started a GAME up earlier, but as soon as I did, I lost all VIDEO output from my computer. Unplugging the HDMI cable from my monitor and plugging it back in gave me a few seconds of video output before it stopped again. Strangely enough, the light on my monitor (which is green when receiving input) is lit, despite looking as though the monitor is TURNED off. I've tried swapping HDMI cables, changing graphics cards, and unplugging certain unnecessary components to save power in case I was over-doing it, but nothing. I'm certain it's not a heat issue, as every component is cool when the computer is running.

If need be, this is the hardware:

600w power supply
nVidia Gforce GTX 650 (primary card)
ATI radon HD 5830 (Output dropped with this also)
8GB of some cheap DDR3 RAM I got online, but I'm certain the issue isn't this.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, motherboard is a Gigabyte H55M-UD2H. It's a cheap gaming PC I threw together a few years back, and has ran flawlessly until now. Hi

Do you have another monitor to try. As it seems like a faulty monitor rather than the computer.

Sometimes you can cycle a monitor on and off a few times and it responds.I would say to try a monitor like one of the members has already suggested, or it could be the motherboard i think this because you said you have tried changing cables and graphics cards and so this leads me to think there is something wrong with the motherboard. I would try the graphics card in another computer and if it works you know there is something wrong with your motherboard if it doesn't then it could be the monitor.

let me know how you GET on.

cheers.

I have just bought & installed an SSD, (a 128 GB OCZ Vector). Since both the SATA ports on my Shuttle PC were already occupied, I bought a PCI-e SATA card. What I got was an ST Lab A-341 2-channel RAID card. I hung the SSD off one of the ports on the card and use Acronis True Image to clone my existing Windows installation onto it. This worked fine and everything seems to be working well. After the Shuttle BIOS screen, the ST Lab BIOS screen appears, lists the SSD, and then Windows starts up, much quicker than before.*

Now a bit of history. I bought my Shuttle ready built, with Windows 7 Professional. It had a 500 GB spinning SATA HDD and a SATA DVD-RW drive. I found out that the BIOS had two modes, AHCI and IDE emulation, and that for some reason, the IDE mode was set. I changed the registry setting that enables the AHCI driver and found that although Windows booted, I could no longer use Nero to burn disks. It just froze at the splash screen. So I switched the Shuttle controller back to IDE mode and reverted the registry setting. I haven't really found any problems with performance in 3 years.

Now, my questions

1. Does the SATA card contain its own disk controller which is AHCI only, and therefore the connection to my SSD is in that mode?

2. Or does it inherit the IDE mode setting from the PC's own BIOS?

3. How can I tell?

4. If the RAID card BIOS is in pure AHCI mode, (there don't seem to be any settings to alter), maybe I should make the registry alteration again?

5. How much does it matter?

I'm probably GOING to fool around with it anyway, but I'd appreciate it if anyone with knowledge/experience in this area could give me the benefit of that.

* I used an app called AS SSD Benchmark and got these results:

   Sequential  read  157.76 MB/s
   Sequential write  145.39 MB/s
   
            4K read   22.36 MB/s
           4K write   49.08 MB/s

4K 64 threads  read  124.47 MB/s
4K 64 threads write   97.13 MB/s

Read  access time     0.126 ms
Write access time     0.061 ms


Also, I have run an app called SSDReady and it says (on the basis of being run for 55 minutes) that I have a write/read ratio of 0.9251, that I am writing 13 GB a day to the SSD (is that good or bad?) and it should last 5.2 years. I don't plan to place any bets on this. I have MOVED the Windows temp folder, and the swap file. and disabled prefetch, Superfetch, and boot trace. I have read of people getting OCD and moving everything they can think of off an SSD, Outlook PSTs, browser cache, etc. Frankly, I'd sooner go back to a spinning rust drive if I have to start worrying about stuff like that.







Update... SSDready has been running for 2 hours and now it says the SSD life is 5.7 years! The write/read ratio has changed to 0.46.

Quote

1. Does the SATA card contain its own disk controller which is AHCI only, and therefore the connection to my SSD is in that mode?

2. Or does it inherit the IDE mode setting from the PC's own BIOS?

3. How can I tell?

4. If the RAID card BIOS is in pure AHCI mode, (there don't seem to be any settings to alter), maybe I should make the registry alteration again?

5. How much does it matter?

OCZ is bankrupt

Update... SSDready has been running for 2 hours and now it says the SSD life is 5.7 years! The write/read ratio has changed to 0.46.

Wow, nothing is easy when you are trying to extend the life of an old PC! While shopping for a new CD/DVD drive, I discovered IDE seems to be obsolete. My PC is SATA enabled so I assume it has a SATA CONNECTOR on the motherboard but I have not confirmed that yet. Also, I will have to get some KIND of adaptor for the power cable. I am thinking the best way to go is an external drive with USB 2.0 connection. I use this drive almost never so an external drive would not be at all inconvenient.

What suggestions do you folks have re purchasing/installing a SATA drive in a PC with IDE wiring? Thanks.First of all, what is your motherboard?
Are you getting a new  CD/DVD drive?
Samsung Internal IDE CD-RW at Amazon
That one is about $17 and is IDE.



Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 24, 2014, 01:06:45 PM

First of all, what is your motherboard?
Are you getting a new  CD/DVD drive?
Samsung Internal IDE CD-RW at Amazon
That one is about $17 and is IDE.

Those adapters work fine...not sure what reviews you got spooked by...unless it's a really shoddy Brand...

First of all, what is your motherboard?
Are you getting a new  CD/DVD drive?
Samsung Internal IDE CD-RW at Amazon
That one is about $17 and is IDE.

Hello all, thanks in advance for the help!

For starters here are my system specs. Home built a little over 2 years ago.

Windows 7 64-bit
Nvidia GTX 560 Ti with LATEST driver 327.23
8 GB DDR3 RAM Patriot Memory 1600Mhz (2x 4GB originally, just removed one stick that I saw wasn't fully seated)
Intel COre i5-2400 CPU 3.10GHz
asus p8z68-v/gen3 mother board
750 W Corsair TX750M

Now to get to the problem a few months ago I started having problems with my graphics crashing out, at first the screen would go black for a few seconds and come back saying the nvidia display driver had stopped responding. It gradually got worse to the point that even upon startup the system would keep a black screen despite the computer booting up. I suspected I might either be having some issues with either the graphics card or the PSU so I installed Speccy and HW monitor to check my voltages. Low and behold both diagnostics showed my voltages dropping out. I figured the PSU was the problem and swapped out my original 750W Coolmaster with my new Corsair and the system ran flawlessly....for a few weeks.

Now the system is back to the same problems with the display shutting out entirely, it also seems that the voltage drops may have gotten bad enough that the system is off entirely(cant say for certain).

Right now I'm running the monitor off the motherboards monitor port as opposed to the graphics card just so I can post this but here are the speccy and HW monitor files

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/KbR2L2Oc0vAiSSR5BXz6viO

Thanks for the help!


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Hi

Both the power supply and graphics card should still be under warrantee.  Have a look at the capacitors on the graphics card and for any areas that look like they have been hot, discoloured. I would suspect a failing supply on the graphics card, do you have any other powered PCIE graphics cards you could try. If that works then return the card.

 Lisa_maree, good general advice.

He needs to have another graphics card to verify the system.
Aldo, he needs to use an ammeter probe to really measure the current levels.

Code: [Select]IF
  { current levels are same  for either video card
  AND
   problem with only old card}
THEN
it is not likely power supply.

image is from eBay


well... unfortunately this is my only graphics card...first build. I do have a good mm but it only has the clamp on current meter which in my experience is garbage at mA...:/

I couldn't find any exposed capacitors to check for signs of distress, however with the diagnostics showing the voltages on all the rails fluctuating could that be merely a problem with the graphics card?

Thanks again for the help Quote from: sc805 on January 15, 2014, 10:16:31 PM

well... unfortunately this is my only graphics card...first build. I do have a good mm but it only has the clamp on current meter which in my experience is garbage at mA...:/

the previous supply was giving me the same results. Unless of course I'm having issues with my line voltage to the PSU.

Hello
I'm posting for help with the partners KEYBOARD.
She has a HP Pavilion G6 laptop, and has had it for a few years now, recently it's started having Keyboard issues, but only with 1 row of keys.
The 8 I K and , key are the ones having the problems, and will just stop working, meanwhile the rest of the keyboard works FINE. I've taken the keys off and cleaned the keyboard.
I don't know much about the laptop other than the make, and it's RUNNING windows 7.

Any help would be appreciated, if you need more information please let me know what you need and I can try and get it. It is probable that the keyboard needs replacement; they are not EXPENSIVE. Consult a supplier in your country.

Hey guys,

I've got this CHALLENGE. I want to make it possible to that no one would be able to copy any file from my external HARD drive to any computer whatsoever.

I have enabled the write PROTECT but what i figured was that i wasn't able to copy anything from my computer to the hard drive. What i REALLY want is the reverse.

Thanks guys!Unfortunately this is not possible.  The computer has to be able to read the file and if a file can be read, it can be copied.

i have windows 7 no service packs the home edition

does anyone here know where i can go to uninstall the driver for my old harddrive because i do have the driver for my new HARD drive on my computer.

this is the information that i need

My computer was booting fine from my new hard drive after tech support worked with it for an hour for several months until i messed it up trying to get rid of a virus which lead me to restore my computer with the FACTORY image discs.

where is the driver for the old hard drive located within the windows system files and how do i delete it? Quote from: NightRink on January 29, 2014, 03:37:44 PM

1.  i have windows 7 no service packs the home edition

2.  does anyone here know where i can go to uninstall the driver for my old harddrive because i do have the driver for my new hard drive on my computer.

3.  this is the information that i need

4.  My computer was booting fine from my new hard drive after tech support worked with it for an hour for several months until i messed it up trying to get rid of a virus which lead me to restore my computer with the factory image discs.

5.  where is the driver for the old hard drive located within the windows system files and how do i delete it?

Q. What all parts can be repaired or replaced in a laptop's motherboard?Answer:

Everything but the LCD or LED display can be serviced. DISPLAYS are throw away replacements that you replace with another good display.

Motherboards and other electronics are serviceable, however...

Depends on many factors:

- If you have the tools to safely remove and replace surface mount components or replace traces.
- If you have the skills to troubleshoot and fix the problem.
- If the parts are available.
- BUT MAINLY... if its worth even going through all the trouble to invest time and MONEY into fixing it instead of buying a REPLACEMENT that would likely be newer and better.DaveLembke,
That is a correct answer. True.
However, the cost of finding a BAD component-
is measured in hours, not minutes.

One could assume if the OP did not now the answer to his question, then he had no idea of how much work is involved.

Wait... here is a super simple answer. Does the thing still boot from a CD? If so, make a CD to flash the BIOS and see if that fix the problem. If nit doesn't, just replace the motherboard.

The above if from another site in answer to the question:
Quote

How can I repair my laptop motherboard?

Hey readers, so recently BOUGHT a monitor ... unfortunately I can't RECALL the product and don't have access to it now. But ANYWAY, the problem is no matter what platform I use to plug it in ( Xbox, Pc ect ) it will mess up. The problem to begin with, started with the the monitor working fine but then after 5mins it would go FUZZY and generally UN readable. Turning the monitor off and on corrected this. However ONE day I turned It on and it was just ... weird to say the least. It was fuzzy and had a massive purplish colour sheen across it. I can't really explain it but it was definitely unbearable to use. Anyone know the problem ? I'm assuming it's broken and UN fixable.Personally as it's new I would return it under warranty.

The right 1/4 of my old HP laptop screen is broke and does not display anything. I would like to adjust the display of the screen to fit in the 3/4 of the screen that works. I do not want to change the resolution; I want to change the position and size of the display so I can see everything. As you can see in the attached image it is currently RUNNING UBUNTU. If there is no WAY to fix this problem in Ubuntu I would like to hear recommendations for any operating system. Thank you.

Or at least be ABLE to move the black bar at the top into a position where I can see the icons that are blocked.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]In Linux there is, I think, a way to do that.
Best bet is no try the Ubuntu  CHAT or forums.
http://www.ubuntu.com/support/community/chat

Thanks I will ask around there.

well I want to play call of duty ghost but my card ( Nvidia TG 9800 green edition ) is not powerfull enough (dixit Nvidia GeForce experience panel..) so I bought a GTX 770 but once in the pc would not go beyond the " asus logo at the start ..could not even enter bios by pressing " delete ..thought the card was faulty ..sent it back for another
 one ...same thing happen ..was told by " ASUS" that it was not compatible with my mobo .. so I got a GTX 660 but the same thing happen ..after some research I got an answer saying that the motherboard was not initialising the card and I better get an AMD card as they would definitely work with my mobo so I am waiting for an AMD Radeon R9 290X......my motherboard is an M3N-HT-Delixe , I have 8GB memory and a Quad core AMD Phenom..
 what I would like to know is how to find out why the motherboard is not initialising the card, is my motherboard faulty ( it works perfect with the GT 9800green edition )...do you have any solution for me ...ANY HELP WOULD SO MUCH APPRICIATED
 thank you all very much

Additional Details


 well the PSU is 1000watt so i don't think it is coming from there


 
 OS Version: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium, Service Pack 1, 64 bit
 Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) 9650 Quad-Core Processor, AMD64 Family 16 Model 2 Stepping 3
 Processor Count: 4
 RAM: 8190 Mb
 Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT, 512 Mb
 Hard Drives: C: Total - 953767 MB, Free - 467801 MB; D: Total - 99 MB, Free - 69 MB; E: Total - 476937 MB, Free - 138652 MB; H: Total - 99 MB, Free - 66 MB; I: Total - 476837 MB, Free - 176318 MB;
 Motherboard: ASUSTeK Computer INC., M3N-HT DELUXE
 Antivirus: Microsoft Security Essentials, Updated and EnabledWhat make and model of power supply are you using?  I'd bet on the PSU being at fault here, compatibility issues between graphics cards and motherboards are possible but pretty rare.  Using an AMD or Nvidia card should make no difference.
Also, a 290X would be wasted on your system as your CPU will severely bottleneck it - if I were you, I would consider a CPU upgrade as a priority, the first gen Phenoms were not great in terms of performance.  An Athlon II X4, Phenom II X4 or even a Phenom II X6 would help considerably.  You can find a list of the CPUs your board supports here on the Asus website along with what BIOS revision is needed to support them.  Something like a 7870/R9 270 along with a better CPU would make for a better performing and more balanced system than your 9650 with a 290X.All the research i did mentioned nothing about either of those card series ahving issues with that MBoard...
Calum might be on to something here...i just find it strange that the folks at ASUS would state that.If you use the working card and reset the bios to defaults , use the pcie slot nearest the CPU the motherboard will work with any card. You need to have the onboard graphics disabled to get the nvidia cards to work so check that in the bios before swapping the cards.

The manual for you board is available here encase you have lost it and covers all this if you search on PCIE

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M3NHT_DeluxeMempipe/#support

I think your power supply is too weak. maybe you need to buy a better psu.s thanks to all for your answers and help ..so here some answer to the question you asked
1) my PSU is 100watts   brand : Hi Power Plus model No : HP--G14C... I don't think it is the problem as when the new card went in it was power properly ...the green light came on each time on the graphic card
2) about disabling the on-board graphic card ...the asus tech chat person said the same thing but there I need more help ..looked in the manual but could not find anything ..unless I am blind ...so if you have a page number it would help me a lot
3) after sending back to the supplier a GTX 780 then a GTX 660 I am waiting for this AMD card..so I will have to try it before even thinking changing my CPU ..so here also I need some advice ..moving from Nviida to Amd....what need to be uninstall and what can be kept ..my internet connection which use cable Ethernet ..is done through Nvidia ForceWare Network access.. if this one goes   how will I get connected to the internet ?
at the moment everything is working fine as I have my "old card " the GT 9800 back in..can play my game ( battlefield4/3...all medal of honour/ all call of duty up to the last one ghost ...)
so if you could help with that on board graphic disabling thing and the set up to follow to move from Nvidia to AMD ... I will let you know how it went on ..then if we have still problem we can look for the possibility of a new CPU
thank for all you help..waiting to hear from you all sorry but I was looking around for CPU just in case and I have difficulties to find AMD Athlon  II X4, Phenom II X4 or even  Phenom II X6 ...the only one I can find are  ;
AMD FX - AMD A series  /A4/A6/A8/A10....- AMD APU  A4/A6/A8/A10 amd only one Athlon II X4.....are they so old that they cannot be found ? or do they have other name ?
That MBoard will only accept certain chips...
I think this is a classic case of ASKING the hardware to do what it wasn't designed for...Hi

The enable and set up of the on board video is on page 4-25 of your manual. But as you are getting a Nvidia card now you won't need to do any changes there. Quote

sorry but I was looking around for CPU just in case and I have difficulties to find AMD Athlon  II X4, Phenom II X4 or even  Phenom II X6 ...the only one I can find are  ;
AMD FX - AMD A series  /A4/A6/A8/A10....- AMD APU  A4/A6/A8/A10 amd only one Athlon II X4.....are they so old that they cannot be found ? or do they have other name ?

I have a stereo splitter i bought on ebay for a dollar, its basicaly a cable with 1male 2female.
I am told it splits the audio quality in half ALSO.
I have 6 HOLES on my aluratek sound card, and only one is used (speakers:green for my logitech 2.1 sound) the rest: aux:blue, mic:pink, orange, black ,grey.
The question is: can i use another hole to output a second set of speakers (my sony amplificator and two quality sound columns).
Question 2 : i also have an old soundcard (creative live! audigy 24bit) can i add it to the motherboard and play sounds from two sound cards at the same time.
Hi

Windows only supports 1 sound card at a time so in answer to question 2 no that's not possible.

If your amp has headphone and speaker outputs and they can be switched to both work at the same time you could plug your analogue pc speakers into the headphone socket and use it like that .

When you plug anything into the sound card do you see a pop up asking what the device is ?
As you may be able to use different SOCKETS on the sound card to drive the amp and PC speakers.

For more information how to do that I would NEED the amp model and the sound card model.

  Quote from: sirgilmour on February 07, 2014, 03:07:59 PM

I am told it splits the audio quality in half also.

So this will be my first ever computer that is home built, I'm completely UN aware of components that are viable for use, compatible ect so I've been asking others for good builds. I aim to run sc2 at high fps on any quality ( even low )' my budget is £500, it may be able to stretch but not MUCH. I don't wish to save at the moment as I don't have much to do and really need a new computer. Here is the current computer build I'm going to run:
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/2JQpy
Other recommendations are greatly  appreciates, but if you can please include whY it would be good, as I can't UNDERSTAND computer language some simple English would be nice  anyway thanks for all your HELP guys, its greatly appreciates!For an Intel build this looks good. I'd go with a Core i5 for gaming, but a Core i3 will work with a good video card as you have linked. This build also I dont see any problems with. Gigabyte is a good brand of motherboard etc.

Only suggestion I have looking at the hardware is that if there is an option to get 1 x 8GB stick vs 2 x 4GB sticks, you may want to do that instead, so that down the road when you upgrade to more RAM, your not stuck throwing away 4GB sticks to populate it with all 8GB sticks, but instead you can add more 8GB sticks for 16, 24, 32GB etc with 2, 3, or 4 sticks later on. * 8GB by the way is plenty for now. I have a new build with 8GB RAM of the DDR3 1600 and the most memory I have consumed so far is 4.5GB of it with  3.5GB free and that was gaming with 2 copies of World of Warcraft running at the same time so that I could solo a Raid which requires a group of 2 minimum players and so I had my wifes acct active on a minimized duplicate LAUNCH of WoW while I played on the other instance of WoW, while also multitasking other stuff, and playing music on Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium with my new build with old CPU quadcore awaiting price of the 8-core AMD FX-8350 4.0Ghz/4.2Ghz Turbo to come down which would max out the supported processing power of this new build.

Intel is the way to go if you have the MONEY for it. I have been mainly an AMD customer for last 11 years with no complaints in performance. Although Intel is currently in the lead performance wise until they (AMD) implement better design to an aged core construction. Intel has moved on to a newer design and AMD is lagging in the design, so they are pushing their older core technology harder with more wattage running them hotter to compete with Intel currently and need to play catch up before they reach physical limitations of painting themselves into a corner essentially with Intel not as restricted to move forwards. But with a good video card and a good AMD processor, the games run just as good if comparing apples to apples hardware & cpu wise between AMD and INTEL and without a side by side benchmark with no indication of Computer A or B being Intel or AMD the user would not likely be able to point out the AMD out of the group without cheating by looking at the hardware setup or peeking into the tower.Thanks alot this was the best reply I've glad for any question I've had before.  Good work there, that's an impressive first build.  Perhaps compare and contrast this as an alternative build - http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/2KPSq
The CPU is better value IMO as it's only 100MHz slower but over £10 cheaper.  If you do decide to spend a little more, you can pick up an i5 for not much more though and I would recommend this if possible.
The GPU is better, the 650Ti is better than the 650 by more than you'd think as the names are so similar - though it's worth looking to see if you can free up a little more cash to upgrade it further.
This build includes an SSD instead of a HDD, obviously if you absolutely need the storage then stick with the HDD, but personally I wouldn't put a build together without an SSD these days.
The case is a matter of personal choice, I've had the Fractal in your list and it's a good case, but will only take mATX boards - the Bitfenix will take ATX boards and should also be better for cooling.
The board again gives you more room for expansion and better features, plus a higher end chipset.
Finally the DVD drive is the same in terms of features, just cheaper, and the OS is cheaper as it's Windows 8 rather than 8.1 but 8.1 is a free update anyway.

I have a 7 inch Polaroid pmid730p tablet.
The screen is cracked and it no longer is responsive to touch.
It turns on and displays the lock screen but doesn't respond to touch.
I could not find anything on repairing this specific model.
I was looking on http://www.ebay.com/bhp/7-tablet-screen-replacement and was wondering if  I found a screen that matched my processor model it would be the correct replacement.
Any thoughts on tablet repair in general?You will want one that references to your exact model ... dont take chances with just any 7" touch screen. Also trying to swap one from a DOA to yours is not a suggested repair path. It will likely break in the process of removal!!!

I had to replace a touch screen on my wifes Kindle Fire and the touch screen is referred to as a Digitizer. The display is under this glass face digitizer, and so you should be ABLE to find a Digitizer for this and then carefully remove it and install a new one.

Hopefully its easier on this Tablet then it was on the Kindle Fire. On the Kindle fire I bought a touch screen replacement KIT off of newegg for like $5 which came with tools with plastic pry tools and guitar pick and a suction cup with ring on it to remove touch screen. It was an Apple Touch Screen repair kit shipped from somewhere in HongKong direct through newegg for like $5. Everything worked good except I snapped one of the pry sticks that were plastic, but with 2 of them I still had the other to work with more carefully. I also located a video on youtube that a guy demonstrated how to open the Kindle Fire and replace the screen, so I knew that I needed to use a heat gun to heat the digitizer glass that was broken and with guitar pick lift the shards of glass out until I got to the still solid 3/4 section of glass that wasnt shattered. It took lots of heat to get the adhesive to loosen to get the digitizer off of the body of the Kindle. Then once that was  out, I had to remove all the adhesive snot balls to prep the surface for the new digitizer. I got a replacement digitizer off of ebay for $29.99 with $5 shipping and it worked. Just had to peel off the wax paper so the new adhesive would stick to the body after swapping the ribbon cable to the main board and then place the digitizer screen into the pocket that it mounts to and then light pressure at the corners to get the adhesive to stick, and then turned it on and it worked like new.

I am guessing you will have to go through a similar process to replace it. Not sure of the cost of your digitizer though. For the Kindle Fire the cost to replace the digitizer from factory service was quoted at $120 and you might not get your exact Kindle back so all your data is gone, and this was for a $159.99 Kindle Fire. I fixed it for $40 myself. And this is used daily by my wife and DAUGHTER for last 6 months with no problems.

My wife said that I should advertise my services with replacing the digitizer screens... My comment was.... Its not a fun process and I hope to never have to do this again! 

** Also I wore safety GLASSES and rubber gloves to avoid pieces of glass from getting into my eyes and fingers when prying the glass out with guitar pick and heat gun... Very slow process and you have to be careful not to overheat the device while also getting the glue to loosen up. The Kindle was very hot to the touch through this process, but it survived it. The BATTERY was removed also through the process before the heat was applied so the Lithium didnt boil.

Turned on my asus laptop and got an error code as follows-0xc0000135,GOOGLE says this means install NET framework,but I cannot get into my windows to do so,I have tried everything,auto repair,system restore,nothing is letting me in,f9 does not work,can someone help me on email address deleted by Allan Quote

f9 does not work

My USB ports have not been working for a long time. They will charge my phone, but windows doesnt pick them up nor any other device I connect via any of the USB ports. I recently took my computer into a shop to have them fix a wire that had come undone and asked them to look at my USB ports and figure out why they werent working. When I got it back they told me the USB ports were connected to the motherboard and to get them to work I would need to replace the motherboard. They said however that the Esata port worked and I asked them if I could use that to connect my USB from my iPhone in order to connect to itunes. They said with an adapter it should work. So I bought the adapter and of course when I connect the USB in to it, the computer wont recognize the device. I even tried connecting the USB directly into the Esata port and still nothing, but it will charge the phone, just not recognize it.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

The computer is a Dell Inspiron N7010 running Windows 7Did you try re-installing / updating the drivers? Sometimes some shops tend to directly jump onto the hardware when its actually software problem.
Also, Did you update the BIOS recently after which the problem might have started?What adapter did you get, as far as I'm aware it is not possible to convert eSATA to USB except possibly for use with a very specific range of external hard drives.Hi
Sorry to here about the laptop problem
Can you try restarting from cold start with a usb device plugged in and see if windows sees it?
 if it isn't DETECTED try checking with some programs how far the laptop is getting to detecting USB  DEVICES. Microsoft supplies a DIAGNOSTIC tool for this from here

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff560019(v=vs.85).aspx

If you run that and post a screen shot of the branch of the tree with a device plugged in and that branch opened

That will help diagnose if it is software or a motherboard / hardware FAULT 

Nirsoft supplies a program that is similar that allows you to remove all the usb device history.

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html

If there is a corrupted device driver installed this can cause new devices not to install. So clearing out all the old devices with nirsoft isn't a bad idea.


If the tech who looked at you laptop knew what he was doming, his assessment is likely correct. He should have made measurements of voltage and current readings.
If the readings are inside of specs, then  it must be a failure e in the chip-set.
Laptops no way to fix this problem with just a plug in device. In fact, there is mo room  inside the laptop to put another thing.

I don't  see where the laptop has a eSata port.

Some laptops have eSATA
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESATAp
The article has flows.

I've GOT a MSI (mdl: MS-6728) 865PE Neo2-P mobo and was running an Intel P4, 2.8ghz cpu for a few years.  BIOS is current from MSI (AMI v3.3) - at least their LiveUpdate5 utility SAYS so.

I recently upgraded to an Intel P4, 3.4 ghz cpu but the bios still thinks that the old ONE is installed.  All the bios setup parms seem to be in place but the MSI Core Center product seems to indicate that the multiplier is 14 I believe it is supposed to be 17 but in the bios setup it states that it is locked.  and it looks like i'm running a 2.8 ghz cpu instead of a 3.4.

Is there any way to figure out what might be wrong?

http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-MSI/865PE_Neo2-P_Platinum_Edition_(MS-6728).html

Motherboard has to be Rev 2.0C and BIOS 3.A ACCORDING to CPU support list linked above.

Also what do you have for RAM installed? DDR333 or DDR400 as for this affects the multiplier.

I made this computer back in 2009

Radeon 5670 HD 1gb
Phenom II x2 BLACK edition 3.2ghz CPu
4gb ddr3 corsair ram
450W PSU

For the last year or so, WHENEVER I play games intenstly online, ie: running dungeons or MASS events in guild wars 2 with tons of other people, my cpu goes to about 96 degrees celcius then shuts off.....As I'm typing this right now my cpu is at 30 degrees celcius....so what do you think I need to do?

I talked with some buddies online and they said I need to replace my thermal paste with arctic silver thermal paste and I should be good to go.

Should that do it or would I need a bigger CPU fan? if so which would you recommend? I have not overclocked my cpu or anything, so why is the stock fan not doing a good job?

I have a thermal take case and its pretty breathe happy.

I have cleaned the computer inside of all dust and I'm still having this problem.

thanks!Also its weird cus I dont overheat during skyrim and other games, only mmorpgs.It's possible that the thermal paste has dried up or is otherwise not doing its job properly.  How soon does your CPU overheat?  Is it pretty instant, or does it SLOWLY climb to that temperature?
Try a CPU stress test, such as Prime95 - download it here, extract it, run the PROGRAM, answer "just stress TESTING" and hit OK.  Monitor your temperatures in the test and see what happens.  What program are you using to monitor the temperature, by the way?  I find Core Temp is best for AMD CPUs, although hwmonitor does a fine job too.

Holy Crap  !  ! ! ! 

I just got as Blue screen !!!     it reads:

Kernal_data_inpage Error

A lot of Stuff in between but the last line reads:

Atapi. sys

Help Me please  i  don't know what to do !?!?!HI,

What Antivirus software is installed on your system? Please download Malwarebytes Free Version, Install and run full system scan once.
Please do not do any other thing (use your system) while the scanning is being done.Please Post the entire error message...including the gibberish...Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and PASTE it into your next replyDon't know if there is a connection but I looked inside the computer in question and its looks like the CPU / case fan may have not been working. Because there is dust all over the inside of the fan case and on top of the heat sink. There are also several capacitors by the CPu have brown rust on the tops and when i restart the computer the now see a message THATS reads: 

A disk read has occurred.
Press Cntrl+Alt+Del to resstart


What does it all mean ?!?!!?  I am so confused ?!?!?!
JUDGING by what you have stated i'd back up all important data and start shopping for a new PC...Yes. I agree !  TIME for a new PC ! !  But how do I access the hard drive in order to back up the data ! ! !

 ?!?!?!?!?!

Hi, I bought a computer from IbuyPower with customized specs and the computer works pretty good- but I can only play games for a certain amount of time before I get a blue screen of death and my whole computer shuts down. This is really effecting me because I bought the computer for gaming, and it cost 2,500 USD, but I can't seem to run games for a long time before my computer shuts downs. Some games I can play longer than others. Guild Wars 2- I can play for about 10 minutes and my computer shuts downs. But Nether- I can play for 3 hours before it shuts down. Also changing the GRAPHICS from high to low gives me more time- but the end result is my computer always shuts down. I'm going to post my computers specs, can someone please help me figure out why I keep getting this blue screen of death? I would appreciate it a lot.

System Information
------------------
Time of this report: 2/1/2014, 15:13:07
   Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532)
           Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
       System Model: To be filled by O.E.M.
               BIOS: BIOS Date: 01/23/13 11:11:34 Ver: 04.06.05
          Processor: AMD FX(tm)-9590 Eight-Core Processor            (8 CPUs), ~4.7GHz
             Memory: 16384MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 16344MB RAM
          Page File: 3497MB used, 29189MB available
        Windows Dir: C:\Windows
    DIRECTX Version: DirectX 11
DX Setup Parameters: Not found
   User DPI Setting: Using System DPI
 System DPI Setting: 96 DPI (100 percent)
    DWM DPI Scaling: Disabled
     DxDiag Version: 6.01.7601.17514 32bit Unicode
---------------
DISPLAY Devices
---------------
          Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770
       Manufacturer: NVIDIA
          Chip type: GeForce GTX 770
           DAC type: Integrated RAMDAC
         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1184&SUBSYS_37763842&REV_A1
     Display Memory: 4095 MB
   Dedicated Memory: 3072 MB
      Shared Memory: 1023 MB
       Current Mode: 1920 x 1080 (32 bit) (60Hz)
       Monitor Name: Generic PnP Monitor
      Monitor Model: BenQ GW2450
         Monitor Id: BNQ78BF
        Native Mode: 1920 x 1080(p) (60.000Hz)
        Output Type: HDMI
        Driver Name: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Driver File Version: 9.18.0013.3221 (English)
     Driver Version: 9.18.13.3221
        DDI Version: 11
       Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
  Driver Attributes: Final Retail
   Driver Date/Size: 12/19/2013 14:33:31, 18222008 bytes
        WHQL Logo'd: Yes
    WHQL Date Stamp:
  Device Identifier: {D7B71E3E-52C4-11CF-6757-7B171CC2C435}
          Vendor ID: 0x10DE
          Device ID: 0x1184
          SubSys ID: 0x37763842
        Revision ID: 0x00A1
 Driver Strong Name: oem9.inf:NVIDIA_SetA_Devices.NTamd64.6.1:Section093:9.18.13.3221:pci\ven_10de&dev_1184
     Rank Of Driver: 00E02001
        Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_A ModeMPEG2_C ModeVC1_C ModeWMV9_C I'd return it under warranty...No doubt about it - I'd return it.  I'd also strongly recommend getting a full refund and picking a different machine - That PC is nowhere near worth $2500.I doubt he paid that...if he did he should definitely return it.

I had to repair windows on my netbook because it was running incredibly slow, so i did a system restore, and now my integrated wireless card isnt working.

Background info:
The netbook is running windows XP, sp3,
CPU: N270 1.60GHZ
0.99GB RAM

Problem(s):
under NETWORK CONNECTIONS, all that shows up is the local area connection (Qualcomm Atheros AR8132 PCI-E Fast Ethernet Controller). This WORKS when i use an ethernet cable directly from my router.
My particular netbook (HP Mini 110 series) has a switch on the front that is supposed disable the wifi card; when it is ON, it lights up blue; OFF, orange. The light only stays blue (i cant seem to disable the card) now, yet nowhere on my computer can i find anything about the card.
This netbook does NOT have a cd rom drive, and only has 3 usb ports (ie this computer never came with INSTALLATION discs and i was an idiot and never backed anything up).

Ive tried updating the drivers but windows update hasnt found anything, and im not sure EXACTLY where/how to find the specific make/MODEL of the wireless card itself as it is integrated. I guess if worse comes to worse i could open the netbook up physically, but id rather avoid that if possible. Could someone GIVE me a hand?

thanksDLoad and re-install the Netbook chipset drivers and re-boot...
Then from the same site (manuf.) DLoad and re-install the WLAN driver...
Again re-boot.
You may have to re setup your wireless connection if it isn't shown...how might i go about finding the proper chipset drivers? just a google search?Travel to the Manuf. site...enter your Model # ...and the Win version.

I've had this problem all my life, with tvs, laptops, monitors

I went to radioshack and SPENT 20$ on this kit which has a spray and microfiber cloth...I followed instructions exactly, sprayed the monitor then wipes with the cloth....i tried wiping in circles, i tried wiping in straight lines, but no matter what i do I keep getting streaks and small checker PATTERNS...its driving me nuts!! has anyone else ever experienced this or can give me advice?

first i thought i was using too much spray, then i tried using very little spray - and either way i keep getting the same bad results

its so aggravating!!! Hi
Well first you should never spray the monitor. You should dampen the cloth with cleaner and then wipe the damp part of the cloth across the screen working from top left corner to bottom right corner. If the cloth STARTS to look dirty then use a clean part of the cloth you may need to change the part of the cloth 3 to 4 times over the whole monitor . Then do that again this time as you wipe the screen it should leave the cloth clean if it doesn't then keep doing that until it wipes over the whole surface without leaving any dirt on the cloth. the CLEANING cloths are washable so after using them put them out to wash and don't use it again until they are completely clean.

To save $20.00 we use Morning Fresh detergent in a 1 to 10 parts water   and bundles of microfibre cloths which cost 10c each so a bundle of 100 is about $12. And they can be washed 10 to 50 times so you can clean the car, the windows, in fact the whole house.

If the screen is close to where people smoke you will need something stronger so instead of the detergent use white vinegar in the same amounts. I don't like the vinegar as it leaves a smell. The lemon scent of the morning fresh is much nicer.

When cleaning anything wet the cloth not the surface if you want an even streak free result. If the cleaning cloth has dirt on it it will spread the dirt over the monitor so keep looking for clean parts of the cloth or dampen another cloth and use that.

Just a note : the morning fresh detergent lacks 1 ingredient that other detergents have that causes streaking hence why I suggested it.

My wife is complaining loudly about the keyboard touch on her new laptop. Is there a keyboard sensitivity adjustment on Toshiba S70 series laptops? I can't find any mention of this in the DOCUMENTATION.
What do you MEAN by "keyboard touch"?
Unfortunately there is no way to change the sensitivity of a keyboard - A keyboard switch is only on or off, it doesn't detect pressure.

Keyboards take a lot of GETTING used to so I imagine once your wife has used the keyboard for a while she'll GET used to how it feels and stop complaining. She could always find an external that's to her liking as well...

My computer has been randomly turning off by itself. It happens at different times and with different PROGRAMS running.

I've run memtest86 twice, both for 7 passes with no errors.

I'm not really sure what to do to find out what the problem is.

Any help would be much appreciated.

<<< SPECS on the leftA number of problems can cause this:

- A Fan that stops spinning.

- A High Temp condition.

- A POWER Supply Problem

- Loose/Intermittent connection

- Dirty or Intermittent Wall Power to computer that dips just long enough to cause a shutdown ( this sometimes also causes a reboot after a blue screen )

- Hardware Failure of main board Have you checked your temperatures under load?  Also, what make/model of power supply do you have?Thanks for all the replies guys.

I'm going to run prime95 and test load temps. Idle temps seem fine at the moment.

I'm running a modular Cooler Master M520One other thing. When was the LAST time you cleaned the dust from inside the case?Prime95 had been running for a minute or so, with temps no higher than 60C when the computer turned off.

Could I be running too many components off one rail? Not sure how these things work...

I have more than adequate cooling so I don't think that's an issue.

Any ideas?

I just attached an external hardrive to my COMPUTER by a USB port and I get a message that reads, " New Hardware installed and read to use",  but yet I  DONT see an Icon for it under my computer.


Thanks


Is this the first time ever using this drive to where you dont have important data on it? If it is, go to system MANAGEMENT in which there is disk management and create a partition, which will then format and get a drive letter. You should then be ABLE to use the drive.

If not the first time using this drive, then try a DIFFERENT USB cable or port, especially if it is a external drive that is powered off of the USB port.

i was burning an windows into a disk and i fail people told me use iso burner and a HQ disk like sony i did both i stopped at 2.80% needd HELP pleaseBummer...
More INFO...what iso...what burning app...how old is the burner ? ?
As I requested in your other thread - PLEASE do not post in shorthand or sms-speak. If you want help you need to provide detailed information with which we can work.windows 7 home permium SP1 ISO iam trying to burn it but i keep failing about burner it ccame with the laptop it name is HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GT60N SCSI  my laptop is dell inspiron 5520 i think problem with the fileWhere did you get the ISO?That's being conviently ignored.... I await the reply with interest...
from my DIGITAL life i solved it any way apperd a bad CD

My Transcend external hard drive has been working perfectly fine until I plugged it into my laptop last night and it did not appear in my computer or seem to be recognised at all. It didn't show up when plugged into my xbox like it usually does, and did not show when I checked on my pc today.
 - It still lights up when plugged in though.
Any help?

Please keep in mind that I'm clueless with computers so the simpler the BETTER please Hi

Are you using the cable supplied with the harddrive ? some cables are to long and cause the drive not to get enough voltage to start.
Can you hear the drive spinning?

If  the above checks OK then open windows disk management and see if there is a Transcend drive shown maybe it has just lost it's drive letter.

Here is how to use disk manager in windows 7    http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/ht/disk-management-windows-7.htm

Hey,
I've been using the cable it came with and it has always worked fine so I don't think that's the issue.

I opened the disk manager and the drive doesn't show in there at all :/

Just plugged the drive in and noticed it is making a kind of beeping NOISE at first when plugged in, and then NOTHING?It may be gone beyond repair. It might be the power supply of that external unit has failed.   Most consumer device sold  now have little  or no repair options.

IMHO, you should consider getting a new unit. EXPECT to pay about $70 for a good 500GB band name. from Amazon or Newegg. Save the warranty information.*censored*. Well thanks anyway (:Hi

That drive is in 2 parts there is a usb to sata converter board and then a 500 gb Samsung hard drive. The noise you are hearing could be the drive not starting. If you need to get the data off the drive it WOULD be worth removing the drive from the case and attaching it direct to a computer. Doing this will make returning under warrantee impossible so that data would need to be important.

This is the ACTUAL PROPER SPELLING:

voilàlol

my COMPUTER has 3 hard drives. it is a Dell Precision 380 running win. 7. I want to just have one hard drive on the computer for a short time but they all must be plugged in for the computer to boot. How can I go to only 1 drive.Not clear on the question...why would all 3 be required to be connected for the PC to boot ? ?
The only one NEEDED is the one the OS is installed to...Some of the Dell Precision 380 systems are RAID.With 3 HDD's ? ?I don't know why all 3 have to be plugged in to boot up. I bought the computer used and it works WELL but i need someone well versed to tell me how to go about just having one HD. If I unplug any one of the 3 the comp. will not boot. I am not a computer guru thus I could use an experts help.

Thanks,

Since we cannot see it from here Post a screenshot of Disk Management...It seems like the 100 mb partition should be on the "C" drive not the "R".


[recovering disk space, attachment DELETED by admin]I have a hard time with the graphic.
Try this:
http://dslgeek.com/disk-man.png


He has two OS on ton two drives.  Who knows what  it is?

Sorry, but I can not leave the image on that site.

Hi,

I have an old Sun Ultra-5 which uses an LBA28 IDE bus. It works fine with my Seagate ST3160021A drive and a Western Digital WD1600BB allowing me to access the first 137GB of the disks.

The ST3160021A failed recently so I bought 2 x ST3160215ACE drives as a replacement and a spare, but both drives fail to be detected by the OS. If I run probe-ide the OBP will detect the drives, but when I boot Solaris 10 the OS reports bus TIMEOUT, and completely fails to recognise that there is even a device at the corresponding bus address. (I tested the drives on a Dell laptop with fedora Linux using a USB-IDE adapter and the drives work fine in LBA48 mode). I even copied the Solaris disk label from the failed disk onto the new drives, and put them back in the Ultra-5 and as I suspected that made no difference as Solaris cant even detect the presence of the hardware, let alone see any label.

These drives claim in section 4.4 of the specifications that there are no jumpers required for LBA28 mode, and that they support it, YET they dont work.

Does anyone know hwo to tell which IDE drives really work in LBA28 mode, as the specifications for the ST3160215ACE is lying! If so, it would be really useful to have a list of drives which work, so I can buy the correct replacements? (BTW, the Sun System Handbook does not help as Sun never SOLD IDE drives that LARGE for the Ultra-5)

TIAThis is what Seagate said ....

Quote

Thank you for contacting Seagate Support.

The reason for the problems you are EXPERIENCING is one or both of the following:

PATA differs profoundly from PATA CE. This means that your drive ST3160215ACE won't work with a PATA interface as it is designed for PATA CE, while drives like the ST3160021A will work with PATA.

Additionally, the drive you are specifically referring to is an OEM drive - built for a specific manufacturer, and it is entirely possible that this manufacturer has dedicated the drive to only work with their servers, and the drive will never work with another product..

 I apologize sincerely for your inconvenience.

For additional assistance, feel free to contact us at:
http://www.seagate.com/gb/en/about/contact-us/technical-support/

My system specs are Processor / Chipset
CPU Intel Core i7 (3rd Gen) 3770 / 3.4 GHz
Max Turbo SPEED 3.9 GHz
Number of Cores Quad-Core
64-bit Computing Yes
CPU Qty 1
Max CPU Qty 1
Processor Main Features Hyper-Threading Technology, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2
Chipset Type Intel B75 Express
Cache Memory
Installed Size L3 cache - 8 MB
Cache Per Processor 8 MB
RAM
Installed Size 10 GB / 16 GB (max)
Technology DDR3 SDRAM
Memory Speed 1333 MHz
Memory Specification Compliance PC3-10600
Form Factor DIMM 240-pin
Hard Drive
Type HDD
Capacity 1 x 2 TB
Interface Type SATA 3Gb/s
Spindle Speed 5400 rpm
Storage Controller
Type 1 x SATA - integrated
Optical Storage
Type DVD±RW (±R DL) / DVD-RAM
CARD Reader
Type Card reader
Monitor
Monitor Type None.
Graphics Controller
Type Integrated
Graphics Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000
Video Interfaces VGA, HDMI
Audio Output
Sound Output Mode 5.1 channel surround
Input Device
Type Mouse, keyboard
Keyboard
Interface USB
Mouse
Technology Optical
Interface USB
Networking
Type Integrated
Wireless LAN Supported Yes
Data Link Protocol Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet, Bluetooth, IEEE 802.11b, IEEE 802.11a, IEEE 802.11g, IEEE 802.11n
Compliant Standards IEEE 802.11b, IEEE 802.11a, IEEE 802.11g, IEEE 802.11n
Expansion / Connectivity
Bays External 5.25"
Internal 3.5"
Slots 1 (total) / 0 (free) x CPU
4 DIMM 240-pin
1 (total) / 1 (free) x PCIe x16
3 (total) / 3 (free) x PCIe x1
Interfaces 1 x HDMI
1 x LAN (Gigabit Ethernet)
4 x USB 3.0
1 x VGA
8 x USB 2.0
Audio line-out
Audio line-in
Power
Device Type Power supply
Power Provided 300 Watt
Operating System / Software
OS Provided Windows 8 64-bit Edition
Microsoft Office Preloaded Includes a pre-loaded image of SELECT Microsoft Office 2010 suites. Purchase an Office 2010 Product Key Card or disc to activate preloaded software on this PC.

Dimensions & Weight
Approximate Width 7.1 in
Approximate Depth 15.8 in
Approximate Height 14.9 in Yes you can, however create the system recovery discs before doing so, so that you have the OS to install to the SSD.

Now that my portable external hard drive is working I have backed up about 300 GB of data.   Mostly music and personal files.  In the future, when I change some of these files I will want to back up my work periodically.    What is a good method of doing this selectively without having to check the latest date on everything in the backup disk to find out what needs replacing and what doesn't?  Am I making sense here?   Maybe not.  I never was a very good organizer.    Any suggestions (comments welcome too)?  I always suggest disc imaging software. You can always create incremental backups in between FULL backups. Personally, I just prefer to make new full images on a weekly BASIS. It can be done in the background and is the best possible way to protect your files and system.Agreed...An alternative for those that like alternatives.
Let's say one has a library on the computer in a specific directory.
Furthermore,  the external drive is NOT an image or compressed folder.
In such case,  a synchronization can be used.  Changes in  the source will go overt to the backup drive.
The link below is for Vista.
How to keep your information in sync
Quote

Keeping track of all your information can BECOME a chore if you keep your files in different locations. Perhaps you store some files on a computer, others in folders on a network server, and still others on mobile devices such as portable music players, personal digital assistants (PDAS), or mobile phones.

How can you be certain you’re working with the most recent versions of your files when you have copies scattered everywhere? And how can you make sure you have all the files you want on the computer, server, or mobile devices you use without SPENDING a lot of time copying files manually? The easiest and most efficient way is to sync your files automatically using Sync Center

Hello, thanks you for your time in advance. I had questions regarding compatibility of new hardware I’m Attempting to upgrade to from my current build.


Main concerns

Will my Power supply be able to handle the new parts, I cant find the amps??
Will everything fit TOGETHER?


New Parts Wanted



SSD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147249

Video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130925&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo


Parts currently in Computer

NVidia GeForce 260GTX video card (wanting to replace)
300GB hard DRIVE (wanting to replace)

Power supply 750W +12V rail: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CMPSU-750TX-750-Watt-Certified-compatible/dp/B000X2677A

Ram 8GB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188097

Processor I5: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115230

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146029

[email removed]As long as that PSU has an 8-pin connector for the card you should be fine...That will all work together fine.

I've noticed this problem since i got a SSD and installed windows 8.

In 2010 (i think) i made this computer

msi motherboard
amd x2 phenom ii 3.2ghz black edition processor
4gb ddr3 ram
radeon 5670hd gpu
750gb hdd
litescribe DVD drive

when windows 8 came out i got a 124gb SSD and installed windows 8 on it, and used my old HDD (with windows 7) as a backup storage while i used my SSD (with windows as primary/games that i want to load fast.

HOWEVER this is where the problems started, first my dvd drive would randomly DISAPPEAR, then reapper when i restarted the computer.

When I take the SSD out and run windows 7 it seems to work perfectly (however recently i nuked my HDD with windows 7 to use it as storage)

I have checked the SATA ports and cords and they all work just fine, when I start the comptuer I can see the dvd drive in the bios is recognized, but when i get into windows 8 and go to my computer, tehre is no dvd drive.

i tried getting drivers but the litescribe website is no longer active (i'm guessing they went out of business?)

so does that mean my litescribe dvd player is not windows 8 compatible and I should get a different optical drive?

I'm scared that if I get another drive I may run into the same problem, so been thinking of getting a USB drive, what is the DISADVANTAGE of having a USB drive over a internal optical drive?

is there any other solutions you guys got?

thanksYou might have a power supply issue. Just a wild guess.DVD drives haven't required drivers since XP came out...so drivers nor Win8 are the issue...
My guess is the old drive is getting ready to fail completely. Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 11, 2014, 07:42:35 PM

You might have a power supply issue. Just a wild guess.

So I went into my BIOS and set my ram to the recommended speed at 2133 MHZ since faster
ram apparently helps boost APU performance.

Anyways I've attached a picture and was wondering if these RAM SETTINGS looked good
and if theirs any other way to tweak them?

I heard that adjusting the CAS latency's would improve performance but i don't
know how to do that or what the right CAS latency would be for my ram.

Its best to run RAM at its default settings so if its latency is 10 with say this RAM stay at 10. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231654

If you need BETTER latency its best to buy the better RAM and use that instead of driving budget RAM to perform better in which it MAY start to perform better but then have random crashes. If your RAM is high quality RAM that can take a better latency setting, you can try it, but I generally run all my memory at its default latencies and if I need better I will buy the next best or the best there is if the price is good.

Here is an older acticle that still applies today:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/bios-a-z,1200-11.html

The only tweaks I have done to my RAM is overclock by 10% in which it started to act up at 13% OC and so I backed off to 10% as a good OC that is stable. But also this RAM is not budget RAM it was higher end gaming RAM and purchased as a matched PAIR of Corsair XMS2 2GB DDR2 800Mhz sticks for total of 4GB RAM.

If you play with any values, write them down before altering so you know where to set them back to. Also be sure to run memtest86 on it to make sure that its behaving and not buggy.

I USE a Turbo Hub from Bell because I live in a rural area and with Bell that's the only option to get High Speed and I have a package with them. My problem started a few weeks ago.  When my hub seems to have interference it makes loud sounds in my speakers (very annoying!!) I turned down the speakers and nothing doing I still can hear it.  I tried to mute different VOLUME control but cannot find the problem.  I use Windows XP and Microsoft 2000.  Please give me a solution.  ThanksI assume this Turbo Hub connects over a cellular connection.  This can quite often happen where a cellular connection can interfere with poorly shielded speakers - The BEST option would be to move the Turbo Hub so that it is far enough AWAY from the speakers so that the interference doesn't happen.I will try that thank you!

I NEED some help! I have a Lexmark Pinnacle Pro901 that is giving me fits. I TRIED using recycled ink cartridges that didn't work, so I went back to Lexmark ink cartridges.
I installed new Lexmark yellow, CYAN and magenta cartridges, but the ink levels on the printer are showing very low ink level WARNINGS. The self test page I printed out
(using black ink) is showing low ink levels as well. What can I do? Is there a way to reset the printer, is a sensor malfunctioning? Is this a common problem with this model
of printer? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If I can't resolve this I may have to buy a new printer. Simply don't have the TIME for protracted trouble shooting.Run the head clean procedure and see if that clears it after a reboot of both the printer and PC...

I just got all of my new gear in the mail (listed below). My SSD has a previous install of Windows 8.1 on it.

I am unable to boot to the CD if I'm in AHCI mode for the SSD (bluray can be in either IDE or AHCI mode for this to happen). But when I get to the beginning of the install where windows asks me which HD I WANT to install it on, it tells me the HD is unable to accept that installation. It tells me, "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure that the disk's controller is enabled in the computer's BIOS menu."

After doing some research, I find it's because the SSD is in IDE mode and windows wants it to be in AHCI mode. BUT I can't get passed the "spinning" loading icon if the SSD is in IDE mode. The previous installation of windows is in AHCI mode, I double checked by putting the SSD back into my laptop and rightclick on mycomputer, properties, device manager, yes the SATA drive is AHCI.

So then I read that it's possible that the AHCI drivers need to be manually found in the 'hard drive select' screen, from a USB. But I did in fact try to select the AMD AHCI drivers from USB, and it acted like the flash drive was empty. So I'm officially out of ideas.

Rig:
CPU Fx-8350
MOBO Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0
RAM 8gb Corsair 1600 MHz (BIOS sees it as 1333 MHz!!)
COOLING Cooler master Evo 212
GFX  GTX 260 OCPlease provide a link to  the documentation for your motherboard. A quick look I did not see anything about SSD in the documentation.HD: SSD >> Samsung 840 Pro 256 gb
MOBO: Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0OK, I am going  to look and see.
The BIOS setting is not easy for SSD.
For REFERENCE. here is a video of interest.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMo8krAJd5Q
How to properly configure the SSD as boot drive
It is NOT a one step process.
Quote from: maxamd on February 11, 2014, 04:18:43 PM

...It tells me, "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk.
Ensure that the disk's controller is enabled in the computer's BIOS menu."
...
Rig:
CPU Fx-8350
MOBO Asus Sabertooth 990fx R2.0
RAM 8gb Corsair 1600 MHz (BIOS sees it as 1333 MHz!!)
COOLING Cooler master Evo 212
GFX  GTX 260 OC

It's telling you what's wrong & you're not paying attention.  See bold above.
In BIOS, set Hard Drive mode to AHCI.

Are you trying to take your laptop SSD & put it in this desktop & get it to boot?  You might have to perform a Repair Install to get it to work.  You can't just move a drive from one computer to another & expect it to boot.

What CD are you attempting to boot from and what exactly does it say on this CD / ?

Ever since I installed the asus amd R9 280x TOP with Battlefield 4 in mind I have been experiencing graphical issues in the game.
Running three monitors with a 5040 x 1050 resolution.
AMD Cataclyst control center 13.12
It doesn't happen all the time but it seems to happen when there's a lot happening on the screen.

I figured it was because of Battlefield 4 with all it's bugs and that.. but I just played a game of Team Fortress 2 where it happened too thus worrying me.
It's not a lot of information to go on but I'm not SURE what to mention.

It's a mix of Green bars, old, classic static we all REMEMBER from the old TV's just randomly through the games,  in BF4 it's on all three monitors.. TF2 only supports 1 monitor so I can't say the same of this gameWhat are the REST of your system specs?  Has this ever happened on the desktop, or when playing a video, or basically at any time other than gaming?
Have you checked your temperatures?
These artifacts are often caused by EITHER overheating or bad graphics MEMORY (VRAM).  Drivers can also play a part, was this a new build or did you upgrade from another card?  If so, what card?

Hello engineers and tech gurus!  I've read throw many of the forms and thank all of you for the wonderful input!

Right now I'm GETTING ready to build a high end workstation for graphic processing.  It's similar to the DELL T3610 except the processor I'm using is the Xeon E5-1650V2 with a 6 core processor with 12MB cache.  (Dell is asking an extra $750 to upgrade).

I'm excited about this build however I do have some concerns and I've included my parts list bellow. 

First off, I need to see if my part list is compatible and with particular regards to the ECC. Since I process and archive client video & audio data and art-files I need to make sure these files are NOT corrupt.  I need to know if this motherboard is compatable with ECC or if there is a better choice for my e5-1650v2 processor than the asrock-x79-extreme6-lga2011 motherboard with the ECC in mind.  This is a professional application I need to make certain that this is a solid unit.

Also, are there special steps in setting up ECC?  Or is it more of a plug in and go?

Here is my build, let me know what you think?

INTEL Xeon E5-1650 v2 Six-Core Processor 3.5GHz 0GT/s 12MB LGA 2011 CPU, OEM

ASRock X79 Extreme6 LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

1 CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3

1 AMD 100-505649(100-505844) FirePro V4900
1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16
Workstation Video Card

Mushkin Enhanced Proline 32GB (4 x 8GB)
240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
ECC Server Memory Model 994136
Mushkin Enhanced Chronos

MKNSSDCR240GB-7 2.5" 240GB SATA III 7mm
Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
If you need a solid workstation for critical work, don't get an Asrock board - in fact, don't get a consumer board.
It's simply not designed to take that CPU and ECC memory.
I would PICK up an actual workstation board such as a Supermicro, or Asus WS series.
I would also steer clear o f that Sandforce-based SSD, and go for a Samsung 840 Pro or Crucial M500.  Depending how vital your data is and how much you want to spend, better models are available, but I certainly wouldn't go with a Sandforce drive in any situation.

I've just inherited a Compaq Presario desktop computer 3GB RAM running Windows 7.  I'd like to add it to my wireless network, but it does not have a wireless card(I think that's the right word) in it.  I CHECKED the Device Manager under "network ADAPTER" and the only thing listed is the ethernet thing.  My HOME is not wired for a network.  That's why I'm connecting wirelessly.  Can I simply buy a network adapter with a usb connection, set it up and be ready to go?  Or do I need to make sure that it is compatible with my router?  The router is from Verizon, if that matters.  It's Actiontec MI 424-WR.  Thanks in advanceYou can use either a USB external adapter...or an INTERNAL PCI-e internal network card...either will work.
The internal may produce a better connection although my latest USB external works FAIRLY well...

PS Router compatibility should not be an issue...but make sure the device itself is Win7 compatible.
Bring us good news...

I bought the HP HD-2200 and it doesn't work when i plugged it in 
I installed the software and it didn't help, when i plug in the webcam the top will turn blue for about 3 seconds and turn back off.
After installing the software i opened the Webcam COMPANION and it didnt find my camera. I've been installing it and re installing it and it has been very frustrating. I've uninstalled the software through the programs and features but it still didn't work.
I tried using SKYPE with it and it finds the camera but tells me to close other applications that are running it when nothing is opened.
I played with the drivers and it didn't help. I've went to the Device Manager and it recognizes the webcam and says that it is working but it still doesnt work. I've checked the drivers and it says that it's updated already.

any help will be appreciated =]If this connects VIA USB try the following:

Uninstall the webcam software via Add/Remove Programs in Control Panel.

In Device Manager find the CAM and uninstall it there also.

Power down...unplug the cam and re-boot...run the Cam software install...wait for it to prompt you before you plug in the Cam...
You should then be good to go...

The desktop (tower) PC has been suddenly 'DYING' without notice, after varying numbers of minutes. The CPU heatsink fan stops turning, but a LED on the motherboard stays lit. I experimented with the RAM sims and slots, but got very inconsistent results. I tried to run MEMTEST to get a 'sophisticated' evaluation of the RAM, but the PC KEPT dying before the test ended. I thought I had heard some 'arcing' noise, so my next suspect was power supply. A replacement 'fixed the problem' ONLY while the PC was left on its side; when it was turned upright - as a tower is supposed to be - the problem returned. Any suggestions what loose connection to look for ?It has to be the power supply Arcing noises should only be able to come from the power supply (especially considering that the computer still works) and the random power cuts fits.

You could open the power supply up and have a look for burnt/leaking components or loose exposed wires. But I would have to recommend that you don't do that unless you know what you are doing. Inside that BOX is the mains voltage side of things and the CAPACITORS inside it can hold a dangerous charge.

Recommend that you stop using that power supply (unplug it from wall socket) and buy a new one.

What is the history of that power supply anyway? Have you added more load to it recently?

Last night I was playing a game and all three of my screens started flickering and having random horizontal lines on them. On the center monitor (main display) the right half of the screen moved to the left side and the left half moved to the right, it effected the mouse scrolling too. Then the screens went dark, so I rebooted, started memtest and went to sleep. I ran memtest again while I was at class today and did not get any errors either time.

I tried playing the game again and got the flickering and this time a BSOD with a APC_INDEX_MISMATCH error (no number code). Then I checked a different game to see if the flickering still happened and it did. The computer runs fine up until I start a game so I am thinking the problem is with my video card.

Any ideas on how I can prove it's the video card before I go spend money on a new one?

ThanksIf you are running 3 MONITORS i think we'll need some more info on the rig...

Also it'll be helpful to Post the entire BSOD including the gibberish...That APC error can also be a weak power supply. As games get intense the CPU and Video Cards draw more power and if the power supply is borderline then it can cause this problem.

What do you have for hardware make/model computer or if custom built all specs of the BUILD including videocards make/model and power supply make/model and wattage?Yeah I probably should have put the specs in the first post, sorry.

Phenom II 1090T
Asus M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3
16 GB ram
550 Watt power supply
Radeon 6850 1GB
running Windows 8.1 and whatever the current Ubuntu version is

The flickering happens in both Windows and Ubuntu so I know its a hardware problem. I built the computer about 3 years ago and the only problem I have had is a ram failure about 2 years ago but I fixed that and it has been fine. Nothing is overclocked. Everything was working fine then it just randomly started crashing.

The APC message was all the screen said that I can REMEMBER and I can't get it to happen again. Instead of the BSOD the monitors each turn a different solid color (pink, green and black) until I reboot.

I took out the video card to try and see if it would still crash but it is hard to tell. The computer never crashed but the games didn't really LOAD because the mobo GPU (not sure if I am saying that right) is not very good.

Is it possible that my video card just suddenly died on me? Maybe a vram address is no good?

ThanksFor 3 monitors.... are you running 2 video cards with crossfire or is the 3rd display getting its video from integrated video? If your running 2 video cards to have the 3 displays then the 550watt power supply to me seems too weak with the power hungry CPU and video cards and I'd go with a 650watt or higher PSU.
Its just the one video card and I am using the displayport, hdmi and one of the two dvi inputs all in the 6850. Sometimes I have them setup using Eyefinity and sometimes not, both ways have worked fine. I know the power supply is not ideal even for the one video card and I am working on replacing it. Dumb question but do power supplies degrade over time? Everything was working fine so can the power supply just be wearing out and not be able to power everything like it used to?When a PSU is being taxed heavily all sorts of wierd things can happen...including vid artifacting. Quote from: patio on February 14, 2014, 08:59:42 AM

When a PSU is being taxed heavily all sorts of weird things can happen...including [artifacts]

I am not able to adjust the sound (up or down) from the bottom taskbar. When I go into Control Panel I check "hardware and sound" and "device and printers" and USUALLY a small taskbar comes up with about 4 adjusters. I cannot get thsi smalll taskbar to ocme up how do you do it? thank you!I'm going to assume from your wording that you're using Windows 7. This should really be in the Windows 7 section not in hardware but the volume controls controls can be accessed from either:

START menu> Control Panel> Hardware and sound (click on the green text or the ICON)> Adjust system volume (under sound)

Windows run command  [Press the Windows key+R] and type in sndvol.exe

To restore the icon on your task bar open any window (not your internet browser) and paste the following into the address bar: 
Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Notification Area Icons
You can navigate to this via the control panel but my computer doesn't want to show me the simplified control panel at the moment :p

You want to make sure that the Volume icon's behaviour is set to show icon and notifications.

Hope that helped.