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Hello!

There have always been some clicking and popping in my speaker system, which is very annoying when listening to soft PASSAGES of classical or folk music.  This has led me to go with loud rock and so drown it out.  But now the clicking is annoyingly incessant and I'm thinking that I deserve to listen to as much Satie and Debussy as Mick Jagger.

So I looked into the problem.  In this link (http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/218387-28-anything-stop-annoying-crackling-noise) a guy (cronjob) has my mb (A8N-SLI Deluxe) and my sound card (Audigy 2) and is suffering as I am.

Although it appears that there is no solution (at least back in 2007), one option is to increase the latency of the PCI bus. 

So my question is:  How in the world do I do that?  also - are there any solutions since 2007 to address this issue?  I haven't been able to find any.

I'm using MS Windows XP SP3 and dual Nvidia 8800 GT cards.

My ears Thank You in advance!Cheap Solution and Easy... Buy a USB Sound Card which is plug-n-play for AROUND $15. It uses a different audio chipset and drivers and the problem will be gone as long as the popping is not on the audio tracks themselves such as if someone ripped from from OLD records etc.

I have a few of these, 2 of this brand and 2 of another brand and they work really well. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829128004

I just recently, went from a wired Nic to a Wireless Nic in my machine I built that I use for virtually everything. The driivers are installed fine an the card works an can connect to the AP. However, when I open a browser an try to go to a page I can't bring up anything. However, it will retrieve the windows updates an such. It doesn't really show the signal in the windows wireless program.

TRENDnet 54Mbps Wireless G PCI Adapter TEW-423PIWhat is the AP ? ?

Which version of Windows is this ? ?

Did you set it up via Wireless Network Connection Wizard in Control Panel ? ?

And LASTLY is this PCI wireless card from the junkpile...or is it New ? ?It's an Apple Iphone 4S

Xp an 7

No, I ran the driver off the disk an seemed to set it up useing it own softwareYou need to set it up via Control Panel in both XP and 7...
The Driver software does not do this for you.
The phone connecting MEANS the phone can pick up the router's signal...nothing more.How do I do that?  It doesnt show the signals in XP useing the windows signal indicatorSee Here...3 Methods.How does that help me?  I still have no clue what to do with getting it to see the APProbably because your initial Post was unclear on what you are attempting to do.

And don't call it an AP...it's a phone.
Start again with a CLEAR goal of what you want to do.I figured out now how to get windows to see my signals instead of the software included.  I am trying to connect to the AP useing windows xp an 7 which, is only PERMITTING updates an not allowing me to surf onlienWell you insisted on calling it an AP so i think i'll pass on this one.
That and your goals still are unclear.Cause, that is what it is.  It's very clear as to what I am trying to do :/You know what? When you piss of patio you're way over the line. LOCKED.

Hey guys
I HOPE you can help. I'm just doing some hardware hacking.
I use an old pc as bedside table but I had the idea to use it as a docking station.
For that I need the pin assignment of the phone connector's bush.
I searched on the internet, but just found a plan with which I could not do anything because it was just labeled with NUMBERS. (http://www.pc-max.de/forum/attachments/hardware-peripherie/7443d1080734127-belegung-3-5mm-klinkenstecker-buchsen-belegung-3.5-mm-buchse.jpg)
I do not need a plan of the pin assignment of a phone connector (That is easy= ground; right; left (as seen from the cable)) !!!
Here is a picture from the bush's back. I numbered the pins, that it is easier for you all to talk about it. (The numbers I used have got nothing to do with the numbers which are used on the photo from the link)
It would be nice if you could help me and number the pins.
(Tell me which number is the ground; left and right)
Thanks a lot and a happy Christmas.
Chris G.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Never heard of a "phone connector bush".
Is this a telephone jack or a phono jack?
From the link you provided, it looks like a phono jack, i.e. line in, line out, mic

Maybe you could also explain how you plan to use an old PC as a docking station.  Docking for what? Quote from: Computer_Commando on December 25, 2013, 07:30:57 AM

Never heard of a "phone connector bush".

Now i'm even more confused...

Hi-I've got audio/video problems I hope someone can help me with.  My computer is getting old but, I've taken good care of it.  It's a Dell Dimension 3000 that I got around '06.  I replaced the monitor around '09.  Running XP SP 3 and using Chrome right now.  A few weeks ago, when I'd be watching videos on Youtube, the audio and video wasn't in sync.  This would happen intermittently at first.  Then I noticed that, if I was watching on full screen, it was alot worse than the small screen.  It also SEEMS like the first video or 2 I watch will work pretty good but, the more videos I watch, the worse it will get until it isn't worth trying to watch them.  Today I was watching one in small screen - it was playing fine - and I went to full screen.  For 30-45 seconds, my mouse disappeared and the video froze.  When the mouse came back, I used it to reduce screen SIZE and, during the process, I caught a glimpse of a box that said "video (or program-but I thought it said video) not responding before it went to small screen.  Back at small screen, video still wouldn't play - it just had the little round thing going around in the middle forever.  (Sorry-I forget what it's called!)  I used the Flash Player uninstaller to uninstall Flash Player and reinstall it.  I did that twice. When I replaced the monitor, I thought it was a graphics card problem at first and bought a NVIDIA GEForce 5200 card.  It's been in the computer but not in use.  The Intel graphics controller that came with the computer says its working fine but I switched to the other one after updating both drivers to see if that HELPED but its still the same.  I'll try anything anyone can suggest and would really appreciate the help.  I know this computer is getting old but, I can't afford to REPLACE it anytime soon.  Thanks!This system is likely showing its age. My daughters computer is similar in age to yours and is a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz HT with 1GB DDR 400Mhz RAM and GeForce 6200 8x AGP with 256MB video RAM running Windows XP SP3 and videos played in HD are just like this problem you have and it full screen HD is just about unplayable, small youtube window it plays but frame rate is poor, while if she selects the lower quality playback of the 360p otion in the Youtube window vs 720 or HD it plays better and can go full screen without the audio/video lag.

Looking up the Dell Dimension 3000 it shows that this system is either a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz or a Celeron D 2.4Ghz and came with 256MB RAM, which hopefully your running on more than 256MB, of which I would suggest 1GB for best results.

If you have a GeForce 5200 video card installed you would be connected to that and not the integrated GPU on the motherboard. I would MAKE sure you have the GeForce graphics drivers installed from nvidia and not use the default drivers that windows use.

Also if you are running on 256MB of RAM, I would go with 1GB. This RAM can be bought cheap for good used sticks on ebay.
*My daughter was on 512MB 2 years ago and upgrading to 1GB made for better performance. I found a 400Mhz 512MB DDR stick for $8 on ebay with free shipping back then. According to this info linked here it looks like your system can take 2GB of RAM. http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19439698.aspx

Also the GeForce FX 5200 is not that powerful these days even for just streaming video. My daughter has the GeForce 6200 which is the next newer series and it has to run on 360p to play ok full screen and video resolution of 1024 x768 ... So if your resolution is set high, you can lower it and increase frame rate. This is a trick to getting games to running on faster frames per second that also works for streaming video. Hi-I am sorry I did not get back to you after you replied to my post.  I did change my screen resolution and that did help for awhile.  Then I got hit with the worst case of the flu I've ever had - was sick thru Christmas and New Year's and just getting back on my feet.  Only made it to the computer a few times and found my video problems had progressed.  I bought a used Dell Optiplex on Ebay today - hope I didn't buy new problems because it has no operating system installed!  I posted a question on the forum in regards to installing Windows 7 a few minutes ago.  When I did that, I was able to locate this post so I could reply and thank you for your help.  I appreciate it very much and many thanks to you!

Hey all, IDIOT here.  Idiot used WET wipe to clean keyboard.  Idiot got liquid under the keys.  Idiot got water-damaged, unusable keyboard. 

It has been a few months since this incident, and I've been using the laptop no problem with an external keyboard, but this is obviously not ideal.  I would have fixed it by now, but repairs by Toshiba are $250 (*censored*!!!!), and I can't find my model number ANYWHERE on the internet.  Nothing about this computer is to be found on the world-slightlythinnerthaniwashoping-web.

The computer is a Toshiba Satellite P855-S5312.  I wish to buy a replacement keyboard for it, which I hopeful will be able to install safely myself, considering I've never taken apart a computer before.

Anyways, I've seen keyboards that look similar to mine, but I was hoping someone could confirm that they are the same one or even be able to provide some kind of part/model number (please? ).  Below are the pictures of the keyboard, if any additional PHOTOS are needed I will gladly oblige.  Also, in the devices setting menu on the metro screen, it has my external keyboard listed, as well as a keyboard named RF-KM, which I suspect is the laptop one.




Thanks in advance for any help, and sorry for the newbpost. This is WEIRD. Just exactly how did you look for this item? You would surely have found it listed on Toshiba's own site. There are plenty of sites offering these keyboards. They are widely available starting at less than $30.

Quote from: mattk9609 on January 03, 2014, 11:51:33 PM

The computer is a Toshiba Satellite P855-S5312.

I can't find my model number ANYWHERE on the internet.

I've heard bad things about team vulcan ram...
You linked it so I just stuck with it...in fact you linked faster, cheaper Team memory in your first post?
It's as reliable as most, I certainly haven't heard terrible things about it.
If you're not a fan, here's some Gskill for a little more, there are plenty of brands offering high speed memory around the same sort of price range.one last thing I was looking at other rams,

and my motherboard says

"
    4 X 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 64 GB of system memory
    * Due to a Windows 32-bit operating system limitation, when more than 4 GB of physical memory is installed, the actual memory size displayed will be less than the size of the physical memory installed.
    * The maximum 64 GB of system memory can be supported using 16 GB (or above) memory modules. GIGABYTE will update the memory support list on the official website when the memory modules are available on the market.
    Dual channel memory architecture
    Support for DDR3 2400(OC)/2133/1866/1600/1333 MHz memory modules
    Support for AMD Memory Profile (AMP)/Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules
"

but the ram I am looking at
has 1.6V instead
of the 1.5V listed
will this be a problem?

also should i worry about LATENCY and cas?

 TIMING 11-11-11
Cas Latency 11 It's not a problem.  1.5V is the standard voltage for DDR3, always has been, so every board that supports DDR3 will have "1.5V DDR3 DIMM slots".  You can safely use that RAM at its rated speed and voltage with that setup.ok one last thing,

I see alot of people buy faster ram but when they go into speccy
it's clocked at like 600Mhz.

Would i have to go into my BIOS and manually set it to 2133 MHZ since that's what my RAM's
Clocked at?DDR3 doesn't go as low as 600MHz.  It's likely that you're getting slightly confused between the actual clock frequency and the DDR frequency - the latter is TWICE the former, as it's Double Data Rate memory.  So for example, 1600MHz memory will be clocked at 800MHz, some programs read this frequency while others will read 1600MHz.
You will need to set your memory to its rated speed, timings and voltage in the BIOS, yes, I always suggest doing this rather than leaving it to be set automatically.  Most memory will include a profile to do this, the procedure to load this will be detailed in your motherboard manual if required.

I have a moserbaer Pendrive which has loads of stuff in it. When ever I BOOT my computer by plugging it, my PC doesn't start it gets struck up on the boot screen which has a blinking Icon and black background, what can be the possible issue, how can I SOLVE it. And FYI I have not FORMATTED my Flash for months together. It's possibly because your PC is set to boot from USB before the internal HDD, or at least to check to see if there's a USB device to boot from.
Enter the BIOS and check your boot order, and see if there's an option for "boot from other devices" or similar - if so, disable it.
Hope this helps.but when I keep other pendrives it boots normally! Can you explain why?
Possibly something on the drive that makes the BIOS see it as a bootable drive EVEN though it's not, have you ever used it as a bootable drive?  For example as a Linux boot disk, Windows installer, or with a toolkit like the UBCD?Maybe I used it once for linuxThe easiest way around is to copy what you need off the drive, format it, and copy the FILES back.  Sounds like you still have a boot record on there which makes the PC try to boot from the drive.Even if you  format the Pen Drive, it will still stall your PC. I have the same problem. The simple solution is to plug in the Pen Drive only after the PC boots from the hard drive. Do you really need the explanation?

How can I take my computer back to like it was when I first got it? I have an older Dell laptop that I would like to do this to.Check the Dell site for info on what's called a "Factory Restore".....
It's different for all PC's so it's best to go there for info.

NOTE: ALL your data will be gone...but the PC will be back to Day 1 status...so backup anything you may need.Use Factory Restore. Be sure to back up PERSONAL data first as it will all be gone after you use it. Quote from: funguy11 on JANUARY 09, 2014, 07:47:10 AM

Use Factory Restore. Be sure to back up personal data first as it will all be gone after you use it.

I have an ACER Aspire 5100 laptop, I'd LIKE to upgrade the CPU if I can..,? There's a (AMD Turion 64 Mobile Technology MK-36 2.0 GHz, 512KB L2 cache) in the system now, if I can upgrade, EXACTLY what can I upgrade to? I would greatly appreaciate any help possible. There's very few laptops out there that will accomodate a CPU upgrade...i'd do some research 1st at the Acer SITE before you spend any hard-earned money...

My computer is slowing down a lot and I was thinking of upgrading it. I am running windows XP and I have about 15 gb available hard drive space. ( I know that's low) Recently my computer has been freezing and when watching videos the video plays slow and does not sound right. I have 896 MB of ram installed. (2 sticks) my processor is AMD Turion 64 mobile 1.79 ghz, My computer also gets hot, I know upgrading memory won't fix that, or does it have something to do with it?? What is the most ram I can install into my hp pavilion dv 5000 laptop and what idea or resolution do you guy's have for my HEAT issue?? I tried looking on HP's website and could find the answer's to max amount of memory my computer can handle.
Go to Crucial . com and run the online scanner...
BTW heat is probably causing all the issues you mentioned.Do you think a dirty Cpu fan could be casing the heat issue, my laptop is old and the fan was probably never taken apart and cleaned? How often should that be done if necessary? I will check crucial.  ty  Yout laptop has vents some where around where fan is located. TURN on the laptop, load some high memory consuming application so that fan spins. Put your ear near those vents. What do you feel? AIR blow or heat? If you feel heat, fan needs to.be cleaned. If you feel slight amount of air and heat, still needs to be cleaned. If you feel huge amount of air been thrown on your ear, i would check cpu thermal paste/ gpu silicon pad.

Also, after doing what patio said, check for free space on your hard disk partition where windows is installed. Usually C: it should have minimum like 2gb free space.I feel air and heat, my hard drive is small to begin (40 gb)  so that is why I don't have a lot of free space. I was thinking of getting an external. ty Quote from: anthonyb5615 on January 10, 2014, 10:28:08 PM

I feel air and heat, my hard drive is small to begin (40 gb)  so that is why I don't have a lot of free space. I was thinking of getting an external. ty

Patio yes I did, And after reviewing it several TIMES and as it's in the hardware section I standby the recommendation to check the hardware.

But if the computer boots each TIME and gets this fault that WOULD suggest a virus or spyware and should be passed to that forum not for it to be here.

All the stuff about different drives are a smoke screen of the ACTUAL problem which I see as :

after starting my desktop i cant to run any application.such as media player and web browser.even my download speed decrases to 0bps.i m very concerned about this.hope u guys will help me out



 It could also be from a dodgy ver. of Windows...because those functions should not be BROKEN...missing drivers or not.
As short as he was with replies i fear we may never know...

I seem to be getting this more often, especially when watching You Tube technical videos. It's a pain because, the program completely closes. I usually don't have any other programs running. It's a AMD II processor and I recently upgraded the memory from 8GB to 12GB, the max is 16. Why am I getting this? What can I do to fix it? I run CC Cleaner weekly. IE 7. ThanksThere are a variety of reasons as to why Internet Explorer stops working. It could be from having too many tabs open, trying to run too many programs at once (although with more RAM this shouldn't be causing the issue), malware, a memory-draining add-on, a virus, or a corrupted file that Internet Explorer is trying to access. There is also the fact that Internet Explorer has a reputation of being sluggish and slow as well as just quitting for unexplained reasons.

IE7 is a SLIGHTLY older version of Internet Explorer (with the most up to DATE version being IE10 with IE11 coming out soon), so websites, such as youtube, MAY take more time on an older version of the browser.

Some possible suggestions are updating to a higher version of Internet Explorer (I HIGHLY recommend looking into what changes are in each version before you do this) and trying a different browser. Both Mozilla Firefox and Google Chrome are excellent choices. If you have certain add-ons or extensions on your browser, there is usually similar ones available for Firefox and Chrome. A few others that may or may not be better include Safari and Opera.

You could also try running your anti-virus or download & run Malwarebytes just to make sure NOTHING else is going wrong.

So I SPEND a little more then an hour in the chat trying many thing's with baconbuttie, Thanks goes to him for helping.

So This is my first PC build, I've reconnected everything 3 times now, Same issue. I don't think it's a error in my connections.

So basicly this is what happens, I hit the power button I see the ASUS splash screen, and shutdowns after 2-4 seconds. Sometimes It will last a little bit longer and I will be able to get into BIOS this is like 1/10 time the PC boots that I can get into BIOS.

Here's a little bit of a WORRY some thing, In BIOS, when I actually can get in it, Shows the CPU Term, Within 1 min it goes from ~40C to ~62C. within 10 mins hit ~71C Note this is just at the BIOS.

Another thing which I think could be causing this issue is CPU Overheating, and it autoshutdown. Alright I maybe overracting to it, I've never used an eight core CPU.

Here's the thing, If I leave the PC off for 20 min's to cool down I can get into BIOS with an issue because it hit's the second splash screen where I can hit f2 to get into BIOS. 

I've already tried
Resetting the CMOS/BIOS
setting ram once more
Running Bare MIn, No drives, 1 stick of ram etc

Case: NZXT Guardian 921 RB ATX Mid Tower Case, Black 921RB-001-BL
MOBO: ASUS M5A97 R2.0 AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD
PSU: Thermaltake Power Supply 240-Pin 530 Power Supply SP-530P
CPU: AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 FX-Series 8-Core Black Edition
RAM: ADATA USA XPG V1.0 OC Series 16GB DDR3 1600MHZ PC3 12800 8GBx2, Dark Blue AX3U1600W8G11-DD
GPU: EVGA GeForce 8400 GS 1 GB DDR3 PCI EXPRESS 2.0 DVI/HDMI/VGA Graphics Card, 01G-P3-1302-LRHave you checked thoroughly that there is the right kind of heatsink compound on the CPU, that the heatsink is mounted properly, that the fan is connected and revolving?
Yes, Fan is connect with heat sink, Paste is stock I didn't add any because it was added in already by the manufacturer.

Update: I left it off overnight, I turned it on this morning and it booted into a c    Quote from: mr932 on January 05, 2014, 09:40:24 AM

I turned it on this morning and it booted into a c

So I'll be buying a new heat sink for my AMD3+ socket.

Why?

I press both buttons and hear the printer scan the photo. "Processing data - please wait" APPEARS on the screen but the color bar does not move. "ABBY Fine Reader will be terminated" appears. No PDF file is to be found. What should I do?Is the the guide to your printer?
http://files.support.epson.com/pdf/nx100_/nx100_qr.pdf
Epson Stylus NX100 Series Quick Guide
You have to specify a file name and location. Did you do that?
Also, check the ABBY support site http://finereader.abbyy.com/ downloads, patches and FAQ. What if you save the scanned picture first before editing in PDF?The printer is the NX130 which has different buttons to the NX100 in the guide. ABBYFine Reader is for editing the PDF file. I do not need that. I only want the PDF file. How to I SAVED the Scanned picture? The ABBY notice comes up before there is any sign that the scan is being saved.I uninstalled ABBY and then tried again by pressing the two buttons on the printer and the scan then seemed to work but I could not find the PDF file. I then clicked on the NX130 on the task bar and followed the scan instructions there and that worked. Problem solved. I still do not KNOW why the instructions in the printer's User Guide. Thanks for the comments. The conversion of scan to PDF is PART pf the driver package for the Epson printers of that MODEL series.
Here are Epson support pages:
http://files.support.epson.com/htmldocs/pr449p/pr449pug/projs_5.htm
http://support.epson-europe.com/onlineguides/en/gts5080/html/projs_3.htm
Notice in these cases a program does the conversion, not the printer itself.

hp DV4 1275mx . the laptop stopped working , HDD error . i replaced the HDD and the machine is working . i tested the old HDD and it seems that the C partition has DISAPPEARED . the D partition is still there but the C is just gone . the capacity of the HDD is reduced to the D partition size . is there someway to fix this problem so i can recover the data on the disk and maybe use the HDD  ?I would replace the hard disk, CONNECT the old HDD to an EXTERNAL ENCLOSURE (USB). Use something like Ubuntu linux live cd to boot from the cd. And transfer all data to the NEW drive.

I plan on having an unmeatered VPS at about 40MBPS, about 30GB HDD.

But will 1 core and 512 ram with 1GB vram be good?

Planning on using http://rethinkvps.com/vpshosting.php

Planning on hosting about 60 videos at a time, maybe 3-5 viewing concurrently would I be okay?Why would you post this in the linux forum? I'll move it, but please PAY attention. Thank you.I plan on hosting it on Centos? I thought people whom use linux and have experience with servers could help OUTIT is not clear if you are doing SOMETHING in your home or at a business location.
Why not just rent the service you need? Is this a long term project?

Do you have any equipment you can use for a test?
Is this for use in a Local Ara Network?
Is this for use in a school?
Is this for video streaming over the internet?

Some 50 full length videos would be about 50 GB of disk SPACE. An 80 GB drive should be enough for the job. I suppose you are using AVI format or MP4.

Memory: Yes, 512 MB might work, but better  to go with 2 GB.
A single core Pentium or Celeron CPU over 1 GHZ can stream about 4 feeds at once over a Ethernet connection.
How do you plan on streaming the video?  A 512mb VPS will certainly go a long way and that connection should be fast enough.

The other benefit with being on a VPS is that you can easily scale up to one of the HIGHER RAM/more core packages without having to reinstall your OS.etc.

Quote from: PCdoc on January 10, 2014, 08:55:02 PM

Wow! So much to learn from Lisa_Maree

Be sure to click her 'Than' button.   

I have here a super old computer and need to get some information off of it. A few weeks ago it was used and worked fine using its original keyboard, but now that I'm trying to extract all the information the original keyboard was thrown away and it does not seem to want to work with any of the keyboards that I've tried.
I have attempted 3 different keyboard and they each get the following result: when the computer boots up the system checks its memory, then STARTS listing its hard disk, and at that moment all 3 "Lock" lights flash once, then the computer says "System error or no keyboard present." and also "CMOS checksum error - Defaults loaded", and accepts no imput from the keyboard.

Either I need to figure out how to get it working with this keyboard, or it also may be possible for me to put the hard drive into a working computer. What do you think about that?If I had to guess, I'd say the replacement keyboards were USB, but the system had a PS/2 PORT.

While systems from that time had USB ports, they didn't have any low-level CAPABILITY to use things like keyboards through them, instead requiring the keyboard to be attached via the standard PS/2 connector.Actually the computer is so old that is does not even have USB ports. All of the keyboards that I've tried have been using the PS/2 port.I think you would be better attaching the drive to a modern computer . If you don't have one with an IDE port you may need to get an IDE to usb cable and powersupply. they are pretty cheap and handy to have .

Like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002
I put the hard drive into another computer and it recognizes the keyboard now, and was able to copy the files to the MAIN hard drive of that computer. Thanks!What is the MAKE and model of the computer? It "may" only work with same brand keyboard.

Pulling the drive and connecting it through IDE to usb  connector might be the best bet! As long as the hard drive is an ide one? They sell those ide to usb connector on ebay too!!He found a solution...re-read the above Post.yes, but I was just interested to know what the computer make a model number was.

My dell laptop has had processor failure twice in 3 week, the first time I got it fixed the guy put in a new chip. I am just wanting to know is it worth fixing it & if I get it fixed whats the chances it will do it again? My warranty has expired. I only bought my laptop in march 2011How do you know it's a processor failure?  They are extremely rare - Chances of having one, let alone two are TINY!  Take it to a different place and ask for them to diagnose it, SOUNDS like the first guy is dodgy.

What MODEL of Dell laptop is this? QUOTE from: 321buerger on January 08, 2014, 12:20:06 PM

How does it look like when there is a CPU failure? Does the PC start, is there any picture oder SOMETHING like that?

Meanwhile he's been abducted by Aliens...

Greetings CH!!

as the years pass by we are faced with different and new problems. My buddy asked me if i could take a look at his laptop. The computer is a Acer laptop with a fresh LOAD of win 7 home and it boots to the desktop rather slowly. once it finally gets there is gives me some sort of acer compatibility issue and within a few minutes about 2-5 it restarts. The first thing i decided to do was test his RAM. The computer has 6gb. so a 4gb stick with a 2gb stick. so i inserted the memtest cd and away it went. about 5 minutes in the test the screen went crazy with errors. ok. so i pulled the 4gb stick and ran the test. "all TESTS passed" then i did the 2gb stick and it passed too. i tried testing both the sticks on both the slots and separately they passed, together they didnt. Anyways now the laptop runs fine. but for how long? is there a way i can run diagnostics on its HDD? and what would the idle temps be for it? The laptop is a Acer Aspire 5552-7420

specs
AMD PHENOM ll x2 N660
6gb ram
640gb hard drive
ati mobility radeon HD 4250

Please let me know!>  Hi

memory normally has gold contacts and memory sockets are not gold therefore over time the socket to memory contact tarnishes. So just removing and re inserting the memory a few times can fix a memory fault. If you can get an old typist eraser or the eraser from a pencil this is coarse enough on the memory modules contacts to polish them. There is nothing you can do with the socket EXCEPT use a magnifying lens to check that there is no damage. Never use contact CLEANER on the sockets as that is designed for contacts carrying a lot more current than a memory chip so a film is left between the socket and memory module which effects operation.

I would run Benchme from here http://www.benchbench.com/
to check the hard drive speed.

Quote from: Lisa_maree on January 10, 2014, 10:11:44 PM

Hi

memory normally has gold contacts and memory sockets are not gold therefore over time the socket to memory contact tarnishes. So just removing and re inserting the memory a few times can fix a memory fault. If you can get an old typist eraser or the eraser from a pencil this is coarse enough on the memory modules contacts to polish them. There is nothing you can do with the socket except use a magnifying lens to check that there is no damage. Never use contact cleaner on the sockets as that is designed for contacts carrying a lot more current than a memory chip so a film is left between the socket and memory module which effects operation.

I would run Benchme from here http://www.benchbench.com/
to check the hard drive speed.

Hi-I bought a used Dell OPTIPLEX 780 with no o/s installed to replace my old Dell Dimension 3000.  I have a brand new copy of Windows 7 to install on it.  I've reinstalled xp on my old computer 2 or 3 times so I'm not completely new to this but, I thought I'd try to find out as much as possible before I begin.  Any advice will be appreciated.  I am wondering - when I connect the keyboard, MOUSE and monitor to the Optiplex with no o/s, will it recognize the components so that I can begin the installation of Windows 7?YesThank you very much! I was thinking that you MAY have a problem USING a USB mouse or keyboard on a fresh OS install but the 780 was manufactured in 2010-2011 so you should not have a problem with this issue. I have very much confidence in Allan's guidance with all the help he's given to me, but I'm just thinking if you have an issue, and have a PS2 mouse - keyboard around, maybe you could try that before investing more. (the 780 has both PS2 PORTS available)
 (Certainly no distrust in Allans judgement here at all, this is just a memory of mine about your same issue that I had with an older PC a few years ago).
Have fun, and good luck!
Mike

I'm trying to get into streaming on Twitch but my Blue Yeti PICKS up a lot my LOUD PC. Should i get a new mic that doesn't pick up background noise or find a WAY to make my PC quieter?Making PC Quieter to the Mic is probably cheaper.

I have SEEN people with noise issues like this use as simple as a paper plate behind the mic so that noise cant get to the mic from the COMPUTER that is on desk, the paper plate acts as a noise barrier. However if you have a small room and a really loud PC, then you may want to relocate the PC or if the noise is not a normal operating noise fix this noise issue with the pc.

What specifically on the pc is making noise? Fans? Hard Drives? etc?Its the GPU that's making all the noise.A loud video card is usually a fan that is dying. Has this video card always made this noise or is this a new problem? Solution may be to replace the fan or buy a new video card.

Hello,

I just built a new pc and have a problem. I have a nzxt rgb led controller, but if that's connected the pc won't start, but if I disconnect that it WORKS fine. It uses sata power plug. When it's connected the fans won't even turn, the only THING that happen is that the LEDs on the motherboard light up so I know it got power. But if I disconnect it the problem is completly gone.

PC Specs:
i5 4670k
ASUS Z87-PRO
Corsair vengeance pro 1866 MHZ cl9
xfx proseries XXX edition 750w
Seagate Barracuda 2 TB
Noctua NH-D14
CM Haf X
NZXT RGB LED Controller
2 DVD burners (Don't know the brand)

Does anyone know what the problem could be?

Thanks in advance,
TischReturn it for a replacement...the unit is definitely the issue.

my original pc ( #1 ) has malware and viruses; I BOUGHT a new pc, wish to hook it up to the existing router, transfer files to the new computer, then trash the OLD router.  will malware and
viruses pass to new pc if I hook it up to the existing router / pc #1 ?Hi

The quick answer is yes it will transfer the VIRUS's and spyware.

Why are you not able to clean the data of virus's and malware before you do the transfer ?

It would really help if you could have the guys in the antivirus forum take a look at a few logs to find out the extent of the infection ?

If you can't clean the old computer . Then backup your new computer first, make sure you are using an up to date version of windows and strong virus / real time spyware protection and as you transfer the data make sure you clean files that have infections. Then check on the net for details on what the infections are and how they effect the operation of the computer.

To do the transfer I would use windows easy transfer as described here:      http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2735227

It is not necessary to trash your router because of a virus.
THANKS - I have purchased several "clean your pc" programs, each of which seems to find hundreds of different "issues;"  I only wish to transfer document files, such as those of WORD, etc.,
and other files such as Quicken, etc.; can't imagine there are viruses, etc. attached to these files ?  I will attempt to take up your suggestion about having someone check my logs

can not open Easy Windows Transfer in the Windows 8 search window ( it does auto-fill as I start typing Easy... ) ??Hi

If you just need to do the files you say then a copy to an external hard drive or something similar will be fine. It is unlikely there would be a virus in those files. The problem  is more likely in favorites, browser settings or  emails, downloaded files or programs that have been downloaded. 

Would pay to check that your version of Quicken runs on windows 8.

I'm not fond of "clean your PC tools" I would RATHER use specialist tools for each job like for virus's Vipre internet security and spyware Super Anti spyware both have 1 month trials.

I have the same problem and same scenario.  After a power surge last week, only my 3.0 USB ports are dead.  I'm going to open up the box and check everything.  I post my tests, results and what I did to fix it - if I can. 

Hitman47222 what type of motherboard are you using?  I'm using a GIGABYTE  78LMT-USB3Update

I disabled/enabled my USB 3.0 controller in the BIOS and that didn't work
I tried to re-install the 3.0 drivers via windows and it said the hardware wasn't there

I removed the controller physically, powered up pc and then shut it down.  Put the controller back on and power up the PC and now it is recognized and works.  Here is another EXAMPLE of how removing it physically and putting it back on after a power loss/surge fixes USB 3.0.

very weird.
Hi

I think turning the computer off for a few minutes or if a laptop disconnecting the battery and power for a few minutes would have FIXED it. USB ports have THERMAL fuses that require power to be completely removed and a time for them to cool to reset.

A quote from WIKIPEDIA

When power is removed, the heating due to the holding current will stop and the PPTC device will cool. As the device cools, it regains its original crystalline structure and returns to a low resistance state where it can hold the current as specified for the device.

The full page is here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse Quote

USB ports have thermal fuses that require power to be completely removed and a time for them to cool to reset.

   Source that these are used for USB ports ? ?

Rick Hapanowicz

Positive-temperature-coefficient devices do the job and provide stand-alone compliance with IEC 950 and UL/CSA 1950.

With the surge in computer applications that incorporate plug-and-play or hot-swapping, designing for compliance with safety agency standards has BECOME more critical. A development worthy of examination in this regard is the universal serial bus, a specification many manufacturers are adopting in order to provide a uniform protocol for the addition and configuration of computer peripherals.
...

Specs
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-F2A88X-D3H FM2+ / FM2 AMD A88X
Operating Syste: Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws Z Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory
APU: AMD A10-6800K 4.1GHz Quad-Core Processor
PSU: Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power

So guys I finally bought my new computer installed windows 7 64 bit, everything's running great so far (so it seems)
I used speccy and a few other programs to check my temperatures and noticed that they were quite high
speccy was giving me 60 degrees celsius and then it dropped down to 42.

While easy tune was giving me a temperature in 20-23 celsisus range

Heres the problem

I tried to play Medieval 2 Total War, it loaded up fine NICE and fast I started a quick game and
a few seconds after being in game my monitor went black and lost signal! What could be wrong?
i'm pretty sure I installed my APU correctly along with it's heatsink maybe i didn't install it correctly?

Other notes:
I haven't messed with anything in BIOS, I simply installed all hardware put in my windows 7 CD installed it and then installed the drivers that came along with my motherboard.Hi

Are you using the standard AMD fan ?

When you mounted the fan did you put it straight down using the compound already on the heat sink without moving the heat sink before attaching the clips.

If you used your own hear sink compound did you clean off the AMD compound first. ?

If you used your own compound there should be a very thin film on top of the CPU if you remove the heat sink and the compound is bubbled then you have to much. The compound is there to exclude air ( which is a very poor conductor of heat ) and replace the air with compound, to much can give space for air bubbles which negates the purpose of the compound.

I am using the standard AMD fan i put it straight down using the compound
can i get some other input on possibility? patio, calumHi

When the monitor went blank what did you need to do to get an image back on the screen.

What I'm asking did you have to reset the computer with the reset button or totally power down and restart.

After the computer restarted did it boot straight into windows or run scan disk etc.

Can you duplicate the fault at the same place in total war ?

Does it go to a blank screen running other programs?

I have a computer of similar specs as yours and the APU Temperature is 37 to 42 degrees C with an ambient temp of 25 degrees C . So your APU is about the same temps so nothing to worry about.

If it's only in total war this is happening perhaps it is the game not liking something in windows  like Direct X version
.

 well now the APU is idling at 60 degrees celsius


to get the image back I pressed the power button and turn it back on again

when i TURNED it back on it said "windows failed to shut down correctly"

and just let me boot into windodws normally

it hasn't gone blank with any other programsSorry for asking so many questions but seems necessary as the cause is still not clear.

Could you clarify 

Can you duplicate the fault at the same place in total war ?

If it does then it is not hardware or a thermal problem.

Idling at 60C is not normal.  Sounds like your heatsink may not be making proper contact with the CPU.
Do you have any other thermal paste in order to remove the heatsink, clean it and the CPU, and then reseat the heatsink with new paste?
I would do that first, then re-check your temperatures.  If they're still high, check if the heatsink is getting warm - if not, you've either got bad contact or a faulty temperature sensor.  It would also be a good idea to check your temperatures while the CPU is under load, Prime95 is a good program to load your CPU up.  If your temperatures climb and the system crashes during a Prime95 run, that's a sure indicator of heat problems.well Calum here s whats weird the room my basement is in is pretty warm at the moment
and now my idle temp this morning is 45 degrees C.

I'll try APPLYING new thermal paste, I tried to remove the heatsink yesterday
and the heatsink came unlatched but did not lift up easily! i didn't want to force it
so i just relatched it, how am i supposed to remove my heatsink properly?

my friend said that maybe i fused the cpu to the heatsink but i doubt that.Hi

To safely RELEASE the heat sink  on a CPU it is best to twist the heat sink a few times with in the confines of the motherboard plastic fan clip. This releases the vacuum between the heat sink and CPU.  Also if you remove the heat sink you always need to replace the compound before remounting.
I wouldn't suggest twisting anything mounted to the MBoard...best method i have used is to run the PC at idle for approx 3 to 4 minutes to warm the paste...then disconnect all power to the PC and open the clips/retainers and pull directly upward...it should come off easily...

Replacing Thermal Paste...Hey Patio

It's an AMD APU not Intel. With an intel CPU when you release the black pins to remove the heat sink there is enough movement to assist in RELEASING the heat sink from the CPU. Also the Intel CPU's are clamped into the socket so can't be pulled out.

Not so with the larger surface and the clip system of the AMD APU's . If you remove straight up, even with running for 4 or 5 minutes there is the risk you will remove the APU with the heat sink. Which could damage the CPU pins. Not so if you twist the heat sink until the heat transfer compound releases and then remove the heat sink. Then we'll agree to disagree...
I stated i don't recommend twisting any component mounted to a MBoard...i'll stick with that.

BTW there are tons of iNtel chips that aren't clamped to the socket...Hi Patio

Yes there are tons of intel chips that are not clamped in the socket and use pins similar to AMD's. With those i would twist  about 1/16" either way to assist in releasing the compound.
So you can say with your method that you have never had a CPU come out of the socket with the heat sink ? I'll not entertain this squabble any further...
What i stated is what i'll stick with... Quote from: patio on January 12, 2014, 02:38:56 PM

Then we'll agree to disagree...
I stated i don't recommend twisting any component mounted to a MBoard...i'll stick with that.
BTW there are tons of iNtel chips that aren't clamped to the socket...

Dell Studio 1558 (i5 2nd Gen, 4GB, 500Gb, 1Gb Graphic)

My laptop screen suddenly shows some small color boxes and goes black but laptop STILL on.

when I restart, screen shows nothing but Hard disk, CPU fan are running normally.

than I tried this:

1. Power off the computer.
2. Press and hold the "D" key on the keyboard and then press the power button and wait for the computer to start.
.

I just heard only loud BEEP sound continuously, but screen remain black.

than I tried this:

1) Unplug the power cord --> Remove the battery --> Hold the power button for

60 seconds --> Connect the power supply then try to switch ON the laptop

and It Worked and laptop start normally.

but after 2-3 minutes, it happen again screen gone black(it shows small color boxes and go black)
than I tried above method once again but this time It's not working.....!

Than I connect the laptop to the external MONITOR and start, It shows nothing on it. First 10 sec monitor run like working mode(green light) then it goes to offline mode(orange light).

It's like SOMETHING is resist in laptop to startup.

I don't know what's happening.

Please help.Did you try reseat the RAM or check with with only 1 RAM stick if you have two?? If you do have two RAM sticks, check with one by one. Do you see the DELL logo properly on screen when the laptop is turned on??
If no, I have started suspecting your GPU!!

If i move it with finger it spins slow for 2 sec and then stops. There is no DUST like i said have cleaned it. Quote from: Allan on January 15, 2014, 08:10:56 AM

Zebras.

Replace the display ADAPTER.

I have a problem with my laptop recieving a signal from either of my 3 wireless modems from my house to my house trailer 75 yards distance. (modems are AT&T Uverse 'ISP provider issued', Belkin router model # F7D2301 v1, and Belkin n300 model #F9K1002V4).
 Neither of these 3 routers have an external antenna connection available.
 My laptop is HP COMPAQ 6715b running Vista professional - x86
 and laptop internal wi-fi adapter is Broadcom 4321AG 802.11 a/b/g/n.
 I see no way to add an antenna to my laptop, nor either of my modems.
 I'm on a dissability income and don't have much $, so is there a low cost way for me to improve this wi-fi connection?
 Sometimes it shows 1-2 bars in 'network and Sharing Center', which works fine for what I do, but often I have no connection at all.

As always, Thanks for any help!
Mike
Do you like Pringles ? ?

           Cantenna...The problem is some WI-FI devices have not antenna connector.

Here is a picture. Some devices do not have antennas connections.



I have run almost 200 feet t of cat-5 out to a small trailer for my nephew, But it did not hold up well to the weather. In was indoor cable.

And for not alot of money he can get a repeater that has one...Looking  on eBay USA CAT5 outdoor cable is about $65 for 200 feet. Free shipping.
But for  that money you can buy a router that will work as a repeater.
The OP should note that using a router as a Ad-Hoc repeater can be a tricky thing.

But the CAT 5 cable would have to be either buried or strung on a steel wire.
Hi

I would see where you get the best signal strength in the house trailer , it is most likely where you have a window between you and the house or outside. The house trailer is probably Aluminium which is a shield to wireless signals. The more signal you can get from the house end the less effect the trailer material will have, so the easiest thing to try is getting the router in a direct line with the MINIMUM number of walls especially concrete or brick walls.

A program called inssider which you can get free from here http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9182863/6_useful_Wi_Fi_tools_for_Windows

Will be a great help to find where between router and the trailer you are loosing signal

A solution maybe to sell the 2 Belkin routers unfortunately they are only routers not repeaters .  And buy a wireless repeater that you can place in or on the outside of the trailer where you get the best signal from the router .
This will then restore the signal every where in the trailer.

Lisa_maree, what you say is generally true.
ISM band is also called the 2.4GHz area used for Wi-Fi.
Some trailers have fiberglass, not aluminum as the exterior covering.
As for the way  2.4GHz  passes through OBJECTS is not easy to predict.  Often it works better than you would expect. Reflections cam improve the connection.
The use of a high-gain antenna does help. Preferably the high-gain  antenna should be used on both ends. And they should be outdoors or near a windows.
For the 2.4GHz band sight-of-sight is not required. But it is also quasi line of sight. Meaning a path that is mostly clear or has a few objects that are translucent at 2.4GHZ. As mentioned, BRINK is harder to penetrate. In some regions wood and chalk are used for walls and the signal penetrates better.

But we need to know if the OP wants to consider  the idea of active repeaters. He may have to buy two. I have found it impossible to get routers to work that way unless there were MADE for lit. There is a wrong idea about a repeater is just one additional unit that joins a working  system.  No. The repeaters have the feature already, or you have to flash the BIOS of both.

There are others here on the forum that now more about this. My point is that it can be expensive and time-consuming to get it to work.  As mentioned, I have used CAT5 cable that  worked for two years until the sun and rain ruined it.
They do sell usb wifi antenna's or you could make one. As long as your comouter has a usb port, which I'm sure it does. Google it and check youtube, there a lot of videos about making wifi antenna's.  I saw a video on youtube once of a guy building a Wifi antenna out of a Wok, Wok Fii!!! And it worked great too.
here is link to Wok FI Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jht-s_i__AEMy budget is about $20. My current adapter/antenna is built into the laptop. I have no external USB adapter available. I usually get 1-2 bars reception as is which works okay usually. So I'm thinking an external USB adapter with antenna will work fine. If not then I'll at least have something to use to build a directional antenna with.
 So I found this adapter. Will this work for me, and if not I'm open for suggestions.

Thanks for the help everybody!
Mike

I had 2 different cards in, and checked their photos. I knew to click on the icon on the bottom, clicked on the device, and then clicked on eject. Now neither card is being recognized in My Computer. I'm afraid to try my 3rd card. I tried restarting the computer, but no change. Are the cards toast? Data lost? How did this happen and what should I do? Probably DUMPING IE 7 tomm. No, they just wear out. Mostly from rough handling. I think.

EDIT: Many users report short life of SD cards. This is a big conflict with claims of the manufacturers. They way they tell it, you would have to USE the card every day for ten years before it wears out. The high failure s due to poor QUALITY control.Could be your card reader - it's pretty unlike that both cards would stop working at the same time.
Have you tried the cards in another device?  Another card reader, camera, etc?Is this an external card reader ? ?
Is it hooked up to a USB hub ? ?

I've seen this CAUSE issues with cards being read... Quote from: wolfman on January 21, 2014, 10:21:36 PM

I knew to click on the icon on the bottom, clicked on the device, and then clicked on eject.

Are the cards toast? Data lost?

Probably dumping IE 7 tomm.

I'm running Windows 7 Home .... in laptop and they worked there, so my deer pictures aren't lost. Is there a certain driver I need to install?

i dropped my LAPTOP and now when i turn my computer on i get the "Check cable connect no bootable device" message. i have no idea what to do i tried to take it APART because i was told maybe the hard drive shifted but im not sure where i should be looking? or if that could EVEN help. and if i decide to give it to someone who wants old computers, how can i make sure they cant get my old personal files? i took the back off and snapped a pic if that helps http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/839/j7ix.jpgHow old is it? Make and model?

Did you purchase insurance with it?
The cost of a laptop repair is so high that insurance is a worthwhile investment.

Here is a possibility. Contact the manufacture and negotiate a exchange price for a new computer similar to the one you have.
its about two years old, and an acer aspire 5749Yeah you hare an investment you want to keep.
OK, I will say go ahead and try to remove only the retainer and slip out the shard drive. You do not actually open the hard drive itself, jut remove it form the laptop.

If you find the problem is the hard drive, you might get a replacement for under $50 if you shop around. But you will have to install the system again.

But I will guess it might work when you put nit back in. It might be a loose connection.
Worth TRYING. Quote from: jasdin on January 15, 2014, 08:39:31 PM

i took the back off and snapped a pic if that helps http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/839/j7ix.jpg

Greetings!

so a few weeks ago i posted i wanted to upgrade my system from my AMD athlon 4200+. i got a hold of a AMD phenom 9500 AM2+ and read up on asus's site that in order to run this CPU on my board(asus m2n sli delux) i need my bios flashed to the latest of that CPU. The problem i have and cannot understand is i download

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=M2N32-SLI%20Deluxe&cpu=Phenom%20X4%209500%20%28HD9500WCJ4BGD%29,2.2GHz,rev.B2,95W,SocketAM2+,Quad-Core&pcb=ALL&sincebios=1503&memo=

that as a zip extract it and i get a vlc file??? its a .bin. can someone please lead me throught this so i dont mess it up. It seems as though ASUS has killed off support info on this board. As can be found on the link you supplied when clicking on the hyperlink for "BIOS Flashing Method" it dumps you out to the page linked below which is useless.

Quote

If your motherboard BIOS version number is greater than the BIOS version listed above, then you will not need to flash your BIOS. However, if your BIOS version is smaller than the version listed above, then you will need to SELECT and download the latest BIOS to update your system. We kindly remind you that there is a certain risk level involved in BIOS flashing, please refer to "BIOS Flashing Method ". If you still have doubts, we will strongly advise you to consult with a PC Professional or your PC dealer for further assistance.

I have downloaded Skype onto it, but it doesn't seem to have downloaded the same as on my pc, where I have contacts and a call pad.

So I have an old Geforce 7900 GT 256MB and a Geforce GT 630 2GB that I'm putting in older COMPUTERS. My only real hopes for these computers are to run CoD4 or Starcraft 2, so nothing too intensive. But, I would like to know which one is more powerful. I would have just assumed that the GT 630 was better but, as you can tell, it doesn't even use power DIRECTLY from the PSU.

So, which one is better?

The GT 630 looks like this one(it's a 430 in the picture)
The 7900 GT looks like this

After checking a benchmark website it appears that the 630 is 2 or 3 times better, thanks! /threadBoth cards will run those games, however you might not get the greatest performance out of either. They both claim that minimum is GeForce 6600GT +, but this doesnt mean that it will run perfect at the 6600, it just means that the game will function.

If you already own both cards you can try one and then try the other, or you can just go with online benchmark results to show which is better.I took your advice and googled it. Comparing their results it appears that the 630 is about 2-3 times better. Thanks!The 630 is better by a MILE, and a lot more power EFFICIENT too.

I just installed a new video card on a computer that I got.  And now there is no audio,

I researched the problem and it said that I need to go into the system BIOS and transfer the audio back to the integrated audio of the motherboard but I can´t access the BIOS.  I did what it tells me for my motherboard an Asus P5n-e SLI but it only took me to somewhere where I could restart the computer in repair mode. Where I went it told me to hold F11 as soon as I boot the computer.  So I don´t know what to do to GET sound back on my computer.  I downloaded the driver for it for windows 7 also because I recently installed that as well, but that didn´t help, so I´m thinking that I need to go in to the BIOS and transfer it back like I said earlier if you could please help me with the information on how to do this I would really appreciate it. Thank You.Hi

On your board it's the delete key when the computer first starts not F11 

Most likely if the video card has HDMI you need to change the default Audio Out in windows to the onboard audio not HDMI.Okay thank you, I still don't know how to do that though. If you could help out a little bit more that would be NICE. Thank you I appreciate it.Could you give more details of the Windows VERSION and what graphics card you installed please.

In Windows XP you would go to control panel , sounds and audio devices , then Audio tab , then sound playback device select to onboard like realtek or ac97 but not HDMI audio out.

That is only if your Video card has an  HDMI SOCKET. I have windows 7 and the graphics card I installed is a Nvidia Geforce 210Hi

Here is a site with a procedure on how to check your sound settings

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/5228/simple-tips-windows-7-volume-mixer-enables-quick-access-to-sound-settings/

It's possible with that card and drivers that the default audio output is HDMI audio especially if you are using a HDMI cable for the video.
1st off it's a new vid card that was installed...
2nd we still don't know what audio device is involved...
So at the risk of over-complicating things go to Device Manager and see if you have any Yellow !!'s...
If so re-install those drivers from the manuf. site and re-boot...does that change anything ? ?
On a side note while in Control Panel check Sounds and see if anything is muted and all outputs are enabled.

Ok So i bought a hyper 212 evo which is an afterstock cpu cooler I just REALIZED today that i have a slight problem.

My motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-F2A88X-D3H

only has 1 CPU FAN connector
while the hyper 212 evo has two
push/pull fans on it

what cable do i need to make it so i can plug
in both fans on my hyper 212 evo?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128656
The USUAL solution is a "fan splitter cable"

My monitor is a LG Flatron E2211S-BN
The on/off switch SEEMS stuck and it will not turn on.  Any suggestions please?
Were it a bike I would spray with contact cleaner or GT85 but don't want to risk messing anything up by doing that.
I have never tried changing a switch on a monitor, is it straightforward?
Willing to try any suggestion as can't afford a new one yet. 

PS Had it 1yr 8months so out or warranty I guess? I have contacted LG but no reply yet.Open the LG monitor's front border panel (if you are able to). Put 1-2 Drops of the GT85 in the button. Put back the panel.
The button is basically 'micro-button'.

Like this.

Otherwise, just change it with a new one.

In the bracket, the power button is soldered on a thin strip which is plugged into the LCD circuit with a ribbon like CABLE. The strip is usually screw fitted on the LCD's bracket itself. Be very careful while removing the bracket, otherwise the ribbon cable may break and there will be another PROBLEM to tackle.



Thanks, that did help. but plastic lever on button that reaches switch is broken. Would not stick with super glue, so have SWITCHED monitor permanently on except when unplugged.Great Have done.

I have a fairly new WD 1TB external HDD (that saga is well documented elsewhere).

Uploading a file, I got a status message "Cyclic Redundancy Check".... And the file itself launched the appropriate software, but never populated with data.

So some quick Googling suggested running chkdsk /f

For 20 minutes, it has been parked at 0% complete, with 8880 of 187648 file records processed. (The first 8750 or so file records flew by in less than a second).

Pulling the plug seems like a very bad option.

Do I have any good options at this point?

(WIN 7 64-bit)

And, no, the drive isn't backed up. Leave it alone for a while and see what happens - 20 minutes isn't that long (is the hd light active?). As you rightly surmise, stopping checkdisk before it completes is not a good idea. And by the way, the correct command in the future is chkdsk /r (which runs BOTH a disk integrity check and the file check). Shame on you for not having a current backup or image.It's now 40 minutes with no movement on that one file record, and I will have a FORCED reboot by remote IT folks in two hours, so here's hoping!  When do I give up?

Also - the "traffic light" on the drive, that usually blinks rapidly during read/write, is blinking slowly and steadily.

It's mostly a bunch of media files... So I don't keep it backed up because it's largely "who cares". (And, to be honest, about 80 percent is backed up somewhere else. Just not As a Backup per se).

I was mostly saying that because I didn't want the answer to be "Unplug and restore from backup".There might be a physical problem with the drive that's CAUSING the problem. Actually, the fact that you are running with the "f" switch rather than the "r" switch SHOULD allow you to restart mid-process without too much damage. The slow and steady blinking would typically indicate that it's stuck. Go ahead and force the reboot. After doing so, I'd download the and run the diagnostic utility from the hd manufacturer's website.Yeah I'd started to d/l WD's diagnostics, but thought chkdsk would be the better start.

Now it's just a steady light, and hasn't moved off that one record.

So, yeah, I'd wager that's the corrupt file screwing everything else up.

Anyway to figure out what file record 8880 is?http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=68605A severe hardware failure will hang a data transfer.

After a very long wait, you will have to terminate the job.

You should try the drive in another enclosure. I think the enclosure interface is failing. If I am WRONG, the drive itself is in big trouble.

Ah, you and I have been around that issue before (changing enclosures!). This device is less than six months old, so I hope not.

As soon as I closed the CMD window, the lights went back to normal, the drive mounted, and everything seems fonzie now.

I'm just going to shred the file that GAVE me the error and see what WD's SMART Ware has to say.

Thanks, guys.What do you mean as soon as you closed the command window? Were you running checkdisk from within the OS? Was this not your system drive?Sorry, thought it was implied in my OP when I said it was an external HDD that it wasn't the system drive.I apologize - I read right past it - and it was in your first sentence.

Hi. After thinking my backlight inverter needed changing I went ahead and bought a new one. But after I removed the bezel I noticed that there were red/orange cables loose from the plug on the left side. The white plastic of the plug also appears scorched or kind of burnt.
 What I would like to know is if I can re-secure the wires and how?
It is a Toshiba satellite L100-109.   Many thanks
   
Ps, attached a photo. Hope it helps.


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Need more information. Is it the plug that COMES from the LCD to motherboard cable or is it coming from the LCD?? I sorry I'm a complete novice. I'm pretty sure it goes to the motherboard.  ThanksIf it is the one that goes to the motherboard, then the complete cable can be changed and a replacement is available in spare parts shop. Just tell them the laptop model and you can buy one.great   thanks for your help,  where is the thanks button??? lol Quote from: midge22 on January 19, 2014, 01:01:15 AM

great   thanks for your help,  where is the thanks button??? lol

Hi

It would be easier to get someone with heat shrink and a soldering iron to extend the yellow wires and and replace the pin in the socket. The cables are make and model dependent and can be difficult to replace.

Most electronics shops are able to do this.

Whenever my Lenovo ThinkPad is turned on I SEE a few vertical lines RUNNING up the length of the screen. There is what looks like a single column of pixels on two parts of the screen, which divide it into thirds, There are a few more on the right of the screen which are white. They appear when the laptop is turned on, even before Windows boots up and they are ALWAYS on screen. There is no other sort of functional error. This problem appeared SHORTLY after I bought the computer in summer 2013.It should still be within its warranty - Get Lenovo to sort it - Probably needs a new screen.

I plan on buying some different FANS for my Antec 300 case
I have a GIGABYTE GA-F2A88X-D3H motherboard
I have a simple question, If I BUY some fans such as
cooler master sickle flows which apparently don't have
external fan controllers like the ones in my case have

How will i be able to change the fan speeds?
is there a program i can use? I really don't want to go
into the BIOS to change themYou will need to do some research. Typically fans a re 12 volt and may have brush less motors. A fan meat to be variable speed should be made for that use. You can buy some fans for a very low price, but that may be nosily and can not be easily controlled.
Speedfan may be able to change the voltage going to the VARIOUS fan slots and thus change the speed, but it won't always work as it'll only support what it's coded to - plus, it can be fiddly to get it set up just right.  Your BIOS may or may not have support for fan speed adjustment, sometimes you're able to change the fan curve there though - meaning you can have it automatically adjust the speed based on a temperature reading, such as your CPU or chipset temperature.

Two questions - FIRSTLY, why do you want to change your fans?  By which I mean, what do you want to get out of the swap?  The Antec Tri-Cool fans are pretty decent as standard, I wouldn't consider sickle flows an upgrade.  Are they too loud, do they not push enough air, or something else?

Secondly, do you anticipate buying fans that run fast enough to be considered loud, slowing them down, then having them speed up again under load?  Your system shouldn't need this, I would consider just buying some fans that are quiet as standard, and just run them at full speed or a fixed speed via a resistor.

If you really want fine grained fan speed control, you can't beat buying a proper fan controller.  This will typically sit in a free 3.5" or 5.25" bay and give you dials to adjust the speeds of fans CONNECTED to it.

I have LAPTOP SONY Vaio PCG-F340. While working its touch pad stop working. So, it hang constantly. I TRIED to find necessary information here laptop SONY Laptop Vaio PCG-F340 SERVICE manual but couldn't. What should I do with my laptop? Thanks!Are you sure if its the touch pad which stops working? or does your computer hang because of which the mouse arrow does not MOVE??
Did you try an external USB mouse?? QUOTE from: PCdoc on January 20, 2014, 04:55:00 AM

Are you sure if its the touch pad which stops working? or does your computer hang because of which the mouse arrow does not move??
Did you try an external USB mouse??

been looking to get a blueray drive but got a few questions.

1. looking at this one, can I just unmount my current dvd drive and put this bluray drive in its place? will this bluray drive also read/write dvds/cds? Will it use the same power connecter (from my power supply) and sata cable that my dvd drive is using?

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7462667&CatId=3634

2. With the new UHD 4k technology, will bluray soon be obsolete, or can bluray produce more than 1080p?
Assuming your PC takes a standard SATA drive then it will WORK fine and will burn as well as write.

Also note that as far as I'm aware you will need special software to play back Bluray discs and this costs money - An example of this would be Cyberlink PowerDVD.  Most standard DVD playback software will not work with Bluray discs.

As far as your second question goes - I'd say that optical media is already out of date - With the advent of services LIKE Netflix and Spotify - I can't actually think of the last time I played/bought a DVD or CD and I've already ripped my existing DVDs to a PC to make it EASIER to access them. Quote from: camerongray on January 28, 2014, 06:36:58 AM

Assuming your PC takes a standard SATA drive then it will work fine and will burn as well as write.

Also note that as far as I'm aware you will need special software to play back Bluray discs and this costs money - An example of this would be Cyberlink PowerDVD.  Most standard DVD playback software will not work with Bluray discs.

As far as your second question goes - I'd say that optical media is already out of date - With the advent of services like Netflix and Spotify - I can't actually think of the last time I played/bought a DVD or CD and I've already ripped my existing DVDs to a PC to make it easier to access them.

Hi

Running Vista on Inspiron 1525, 750GB HDD.

Ran chkdsk /f when Vista locked up. Took 6hrs to complete, and a further 6hrs to reboot to login screen. Now taking over an hour to load up Vista, with an error message from Microsoft Security Essentials saying simply "At Risk". HDD light is solid/constant.

Have had a previous HDD failure so am prepared to have to replace if necessary. Unhelpfully my backup external drive (using Macrium Reflect) also failed last month so I don't have an adequate backup right now.

Should I try to run chkdsk /r, or I also have DiskCheckUp program?

Many thanks in advance.Is the hard drive under warranty?
Did the chkdsk return any errors?Yes, you should run chkdsk /r as follows: right-click on a command prompt icon and open as administrator. In the command prompt window type: chkdsk /r  (then press ENTER). You'll be told the disk is in use and asked if you want to run checkdisk on the next boot. Say yes, exit the command prompt window, and reboot.Many thanks. Sadly I didn't even get as far as Vista loading properly. Hard shutdown, then attempted to boot in Safe Mode with command prompt (plan is to run chkdsk /r from there) - however Vista not even loading in Safe Mode - got as far as loading various drivers, but now blank screen with only mouse pointer active and HDD light constant. Not looking good, suggestions welcome!ASKING for the second time: When you did chkdsk /r at first, did it return any error(s) ??
Because if it did not return any error, I would test the RAM (memory) using memtest.Download & run the hd diagnostic from the website of the hd manufacturer. You can burn it to cd and boot to it to run it.Thanks Alan - after 3HRS finally loaded command prompt so now running chkdsk /r. No other Vista functionality at all.

PCDoc - unable to access any Vista functionality so please calm down. Quote from: a_lexsmith on January 20, 2014, 08:10:07 AM

PCDoc - unable to access any Vista functionality so please calm down.

Hi i have a old computer im trying to upgrade i saw one i like its the HP AIO ENVY 23-D112A i was LOOKING how its kinda like a ipad with all the apps an such but what i want to know is if i would be able to download USING torrents and torrent sites because i rely heavily on them! An ironic User name considering your love of torrents...That HP has windows 8 so there shouldn't be any reason that software that runs on Windows 8 won't WORK.

but upon my return several days later I found hardened white foam everywhere where it had not been before surrounding the power supply and all over the motherboard around the power supply

> Dell Latitude laptop D620 (also fried in the whatever event that happened)
> IBM Thinkpad Lenovo T60 laptop (no hard drive but otherwisein working order)

Hi, I put in this new video card in a few days ago in my HP
Pavillion A6000N (WINXP SP3 and 2 gig of ram)...
onboard sound was working until i installed this new card now onboard sound (DsAudioDevice_310) has stopped working and is the only listed device that is available...so

I disabled the (DsAudioDevice_310) and then hooked up the HDMI cable
to TV and installed the latest drivers from AMD for the new video card
(eah5450 silent/di/1gd3(lp)) and was hoping
this new card would take over but everywhere i turn this card dosent
want to show up as a audio device in Sounds and Audio Devices...
right now i dont have a listed audio device it says No Audio Device
in Sounds and Audio Devices and all the options are greyed out...
I went to Add New Hardware and all it will tell me is Device is
working properly.

AMD High Definition Audio Device is listed in the Device Manager
under Sounds, Videos and Game Controllers and says it is working...
Id like to get sound and video  to go through the hdmi cable to the tv and get the sound
to go through the tv speakers

Im not sure what to do next maybe someone has came across this
problem before. THANK you.In the control panel under sounds and audio device properties there is an audio tab, and on this you should see default device for sound PLAYBACK. You have to make sure that the one you want to use is the one that is set to default. If that is set correct, then look at the advanced audio properties and make sure the levels are set correctly.

* I have this same video card in one of my system and it works great, however you have to specify which audio device you want to use its not automatic with XP. With the same system with Windows 7, the PnP allows the HDMI to autodetect that the cable is connected to TV and redirect audio out the HDMI vs onboard, so it was only with XP that doesnt autodetect and so you may have to manually select between 2 audio adapters onboard and the video cards built in audio for HDMI with Windows XP.

If you were planning on buying Windows 7 in the future for this build and switch lots of times between onboard sound card and HDMI, going with Windows 7 fixes this issue!!! I have 2 hard drives in this system and discovered this problem but found the work around. But also i rarely use XP on it anymore and with Windows 7 no problems with this autodetect for audio.

*Note: Screenshot below is not from my system with this card but another Windows XP system to show location of these settings.

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]this is mine... i dont have the option to pick one. the AMD High Definition Audio Device wont show up.
 

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Interesting because it shows up on my computer at home. And I just used the drivers that came on the CD that was bundled with the video card. I have 3 systems with the AMD ATI Radeon HD 5450 passive video cards one with 512MB and the other 2 have 1GB RAM.

Just CONFIRMING that you downloaded the Windows XP 32-bit driver for this video card? It could be that the card is defective, but usually a defective card will mount the driver properly, but will malfunction in operation. Also have you contacted the support for this card? ASUS sometimes takes a few days to get back to you. Took them 4 days to answer my request on my ASUS Laptop as to whether and SSD upgrade would void the warranty and I found out that it would void the warranty if I upgraded.

Here are the cards I have:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131338

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102882

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121377

* Just a heads up on these cards is that if you use them for gaming you need to add airflow to them. They roast without air moving across the passive heatsink. I added cooling fans to my systems to blow air across them and they operate around 46C with proper airflow when gaming.
i first tried the cd but i noticed that the Catalyst Control Center help files had information that was not the same as what is in the Catalyst Control Center program. See below...

Adjusting Screen Position or Size

    Based on the navigation layout of the Control Center application window, do one of the following:
        Navigation menu—From the display palette on the Desktops & Displays page, click the desired monitor, and then click CONFIGURE in the context menu that appears.
        Navigation tree—From the tree in the Graphics Settings tab, EXPAND Monitor Properties.
    Click Adjustments.
    Click the center of the box and drag it to the desired position or size.
        Optionally, use the arrows surrounding the box to adjust position and size.


This information as explained i could not find exactly as stated in the Catalyst Center Program... it is similar but not the same. I have video but it needs work. like i say audio dosent work at all.

I then downloaded 13-12_xp32_dd_ccc.exe with no better results. I am unsure how to proceed at this point. I have not contacted support. I wont ever be doing any gaming.
Tried reinserting the card and reinstalling the software... dosent make any difference.
I think this card is toast.I'd either get a replacement through the site or store where you bought this, or contact ASUS technical support directly.

ASUS has a live chat during specific hours and they may be able to assist with troubleshooting or replacement: http://www.service.asus.com/

Hi,

System Details.

HP Pavalion g6-1301 TX
Ram 4GB
Hardisk 500GB
Operating System - Windows - 7 64bit

From last one month my all THREE USB port and integrated webcam is not working.
I tried diffrent options like windows repair and driver update but not ABLE to solve problem.

I am ALSO attatching SCREENSHOT of driver manager if it helps.

Thanks in advance for helping me.



Thanks,
Varun

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Were you using something like 3G USB dongle which you recently uninstalled from your laptop?

Uninstall all items under Universal Serial Bus controller by right clicking each item and select uninstall from the menu. Also do same for the webcam. Reboot the laptop.

If windows 7 came pre-installed with your laptop, did it also have HP updater installed? Because that updater BIOS and drivers. If you have the laptop motherboard CD, you can check by installing the driver version from the CD.

So I am getting big lag spikes on my online games on both my LAPTOP and desktop from 30-40 ping all the way to 3000 ping usually it just goes to about 300 but sometimes way worse, it's not very consistent and it is very random but it almost always happens.

I heard that it could be that I need to change my wireless modems channel and receivers to but I don't know how to do that. Any help WOULD be REALLY appreciated thank you.Have you tried connecting to your modem via cable?  I think that would be a TROUBLESHOOTING step; it could provide some evidence of whether the problem is your wireless connection to your modem or an issue going out beyond your modem.  It might be an issue you about which need to contact your ISP. Yea i have i think it is my wireless card becasue the lag and ping spikes only happen on this computer with this wireless card. Tried changing the channels but still just happens randomly and all the time NOTHING like this happens on my notebook on cell phone with the wifi connection.

I have a Sony DVD RW DRU-V200A CD/DVD Drive which will not automatically start the Win 7 install DVD. Works on all of my other CD-R and CD discs. Trying to replace my XP OS with Win 7. Also can not find "setup.exe" to open MANUALLY. Instructions say to click Start, click Compuetr, double-click the drive and then double-click setup.exe. When I double-click the drive, all I get is the search window. Please help. Thanks. Sounds like it's the drive...try another bootable CD such as Ubuntu...Don't have Ubuntu. What about my Macrium bootable rescue cd?

update: Drive reads all of my CD-R discs fine including Macrium boorable rescue. Also plays music CD's. Guess it just can't read a DVD. I never tried a DVD in it so maybe it never read DVDs.Good Morning everybody out there!

Been Googling and have discovered it is common for CD/DVD drives to lose only DVD or CD capability (apparently my case) and it seems DVD usually fails first. Since I never played any DVD's, I do not know when my drive lost its ability to read them. Suggested fixes are to clean the common lens with a soft cloth and alcohol and also make sure the ribbon cable is not restricting laser travel because DVD read info is on the outside of the disc whereas CD read info is on the inside. I will try these before buying a new drive. I already replaced this drive a few years ago. I am surprised at the short life span considering I use them so infrequently.

Please chime in if you think I am on the WRONG track. Thanks.Aside from anything else, you need to make sure your system can support W7 - not all systems that shipped with XP can. Also, check to see if there are W7 drivers available for your system.I suspect it was only a CD drive all along...

There will be raised lettering somewhere on the faceplate stating what type drive it is... Quote from: Allan on January 23, 2014, 06:16:20 AM

Aside from anything else, you need to make sure your system can support W7 - not all systems that shipped with XP can. Also, check to see if there are W7 drivers available for your system.

I suspect it was only a CD drive all along...

There will be raised lettering somewhere on the faceplate stating what type drive it is...

I think OP got confused with drivers & drives.

Aside from anything else, you need to make sure your system can support W7 - not all systems that shipped with XP can. Also, check to see if there are W7 drivers available for your system.

Thanks Allan. Yes, I ran MS Win7 Upgrade Advisor tool and all of my hardware/drives checks out ok.

Allan asked you to check DRIVERS and not drives. As above, not all machines shipped with xp are compatible with W7. You should check if windows 7 drivers are available for your system.

If it reads the Macrium CD...which is bootable but does not do the same with the Win7 DVD then it sounds like the Win7 CD was not created properly...