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This is not really a software issue. It is a hardware question.
about a year ago I bought a refurbished Optiplex GX 520 fro a eBay vendor. Now the wartrtenty is up and I still have issues with the video,. The PC will crash while watching Netflix. This Dell SSF PC came with Windows 7 64 bit installed. The vendor did that, not Dell. This Dell machine was originally sold with Windows XP and has the old COA on it.

Everest Home  says  I have a Presler  with two cores.

My research indicates the original CPU must have been a Prescott. But the Pentium D it now has is a Presler Pentium D.  (Why does the spell CHECK not like  Presler?

A search on Prescott  Pentium D shows there was no such a thing.

So, I am wondering. Was that the problem? The refurbish company used a new CPU in an older board? Can I salvage this PC?
That would be determined by what MBoard it is...

Whether it would be worth it or not remains to be seen.Sorry, Geek, you don't know how to search for CPU's.
http://www.cpu-world.com/index.html
Prescott is a Celeron-D
Pressler is a Pentium-D

D's are 1st generation dual core, most, if not all are 64-bit & use Socket 775. Quote from: patio on NOVEMBER 24, 2013, 03:12:12 PM

That would be determined by what MBoard it is...
Whether it would be worth it or not remains to be seen.

Celeron Dual-Core desktop family replaced single-core Celeron 400 series microprocessors, that were released in the middle of 2007. First dual-core Celerons were based on Allendale core, which, besides the SECOND core, had practically the same features as single-core Celeron 400 series CPUs

Intel d845gvsr operators manual is here.
That's about all I can find on this old un-supported board.
 Reason for this question is that 2 -10gb iDE hard drives is all I have left after both of my 160 gb drives won't run (bad sectors, NTDRL not found ect.) I'm trying to load Vista Hm Prem as the OS but disk space on a single 10 gb is the culprit that's causing problems.
 Thanks for any help or suggestions on a better way to approach this.
Mike

 Yes 10gb disk space may not be enough for vista to run smoothly. If you dont have larger disk you may have to think of installing xp. That would be your best option.ok, I've got an old XP SP1 OS disc, but it's hard getting the OS up to date with SP2 through Windows Update = "no longer supported". But I'll give it another try. Thanks for the help!
I'll post back with the results...
MikeBetter is to upgrade to service pack 3, which is the latest and major update for xp. You can download it separately and install it either by burning to a cd or just install it right away. You will not lose any data, it will only upgrade your existing installation. It is available for free from Microsoft.

Windows XP SP3 Exe file (Free Upgrade only)
Windows XP SP3 .iso file (Free Upgrade only)Your question was whether you can connect 2 10GB hard drives to your mainboard.
That should work. On pictures I can see 3 IDE adapters.
I can also totally agree to PCdoc, that it would be better to use XP, as Vista is in my opinion one of Microsoft's biggest mistakes (Don't kill me for my opinion )
But why dont you just buy a bigger harddrive? They are not that expensive.

I hope I COULD help you.
Chris G.One IDE motherboard connector can control 2 drives - master and slave. Also, any 10 GB drives still working would be likely to fail very soon, as they must be very old - that size was common in the late 1990s - if  one was working for the last 15 years it must be life expired, and if it was stored for a long time it will also be suspect mechanically.


Quote from: Chris G. on November 24, 2013, 05:41:43 AM

as Vista is in my opinion one of Microsoft's biggest mistakes (Don't kill me for my opinion )

But why dont you just buy a bigger harddrive? They are not that expensive.

Intel offers drivers to support the full capacity of drives larger than 137 GB on motherboards
equipped with the Intel 810, 810E, 810E2, 815, 815, 815E, 815EP, 815P, 820, 820E, 830M,
830MP, 830MG, 840, 845, 850, or 860 chipset.

There are IDE to SATA adapters available...

I have a friend who has a keyboard that has large keys to help her husband's hands.  However it does not have any function keys or even a fn key.
Does anyone know if there is a way of reproducing function key action using other keys.
I can't find anywhere how to do it so suspect it is not possible but I just wondered if anyone knew a way.

Any help would be much APPRECIATED both by myself and my friend.

ThanksCan you share the make/model of this keyboard so we can SEE what keys are available etc and see if it has a feature that may SUPPORT key macros etc?There are also many free apps out there that will do what's called key -remapping...

Again more details...A site with the URL http://spd.org claims to be of help to people with disabilities.
They have alternative keyboards available. For a price.

And, as Patio said, there are free programs to re map keys.Thanks for your answers

We can't find the make or model of the keyboard - nothing at all on the keyboard and they bought it a while ago and do not have the documentation
does anyone know where to find the PROGRAM to remap keys?You could Google for that. But you will be frustrated.
Look at this:
Quote

Things that SharpKeys will not do:

    Allow you to swap two keys with each other - e.g. you can’t have Q and Z swap places because the remapping code would get confused
    Map multiple key presses to one key - e.g. it will not support an attempt to remap Ctrl+C to the F5 key
    Map mouse clicks to any key
    Support certain hardware keys that never make it to Windows - e.g. Logitech’s volume buttons or most Fn keys
    Support multiple mappings for different users - the Windows key being tweaked is for an entire machine
    Protect you from yourself - if you disable your DEL key ...

Don't frustrate her saying it can't be done...we're here to assist.

3 Free Choices...

I recently acquired a "compaq sr5702f" completely STOCK which had, had the vga out, tugged a little too hard and didnt work anymore. I bought a graphics card installed it and booted up.
The picture is split up in 8 or 10 vertical lines of differing color but most things were still readable i was able to install the drivers off of the disc that came with the card but even after the restart nothing changed can anyone help.
Please!
computer--Compaq sr5702f windows vista
card---XFX ONE 1gb ddr3 pci-eDid you damage the cable that CONNECTS to the video card and the monitor? I'd try a different video cable if the display supports swapping cables.no ive tryed 2 different cords and 3 monitors still messed up.
New development though the computer now will only start in safe mode and recognizes no video adapter
 I'd perform a Repair Installation of the OS with the video card added and see if that fixes it. Otherwise I'd suggest looking for a motherboard for it with a CPU, since according to the specifics of this motherboard. They claim that the CPU is soldered onto the board. Talk about no upgrade path for an already weak CPU.

My motherboard when it died on my Compaq Presario S6030NX was giving me line son the screen. I assumed it was the video card and replace dthe video card and the problem remained. I swapped the monitor and cable and still had lines. In addition to this the system ALSO would lock up occasionally. I TRIED then to run off the integrated Via GPU and still same results. I swapped RAM, still same results. Now with Video card, RAM, and Monitor & Cable swapped out I still had the problem I decided to perform a clean install and the problem was still there. I ended up throwing the motherboard away and replacing it which fixed my issue. I got 5 good years out of the Athlon XP2800+ before that motherboard died.

•Operating speed: Up to 2.2 GHz
•Number of CORES: 1
•Socket: no socket (this processor is soldered onto the motherboard)

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01629355&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3879051#N357

I have a Dell XPS 420 that originally came with Windows Vista in 2007.  This pc has been upgraded in most ways.  New hard drive, new memory modules, new power supply and running Windows 7 (32 bit).    As a back up reference pc, it's used mostly for web based programs.  Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse used.  All peripherals' run thru the eight USB ports (keyboard, mouse, printers, etc).   No problems in the last year until last week while booting up, an error screen stated "no keyboard found.  Started out with simple checks like rebooting, installed fresh batteries in the keyboard and mouse, tried all 8 usb ports, even went to a wired keyboard.    Even switched out the keyboards with a working pc.   They worked fine.  No PS2 ports to work with. 
This is where I am now stumped.   

I have two other working pc's that are Windows 7 64 bit and an older Windows XP units.  I pulled the hard drive from the broke pc and attached it to one of my working pc to look at all the files.  I'm not sure how to determine if it's hardware related, software related or motherboard related. 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thank youIf the USB devices attach directly to the PC to where there is no HUB in between for 8 ports, then it could be either hardware or driver related.

First only have the keyboard and mouse connected with all other USB devices disconnected. This will remove the possibility of a USB power draw overload condition causing the loss of all USB. If problem remains then proceed forward with next step, otherwise if mouse and keyboard are working then something else connected is possibly overloading the USB 5v power and you can attach 1 device at a time until the USB CUTS out again. Removing the device that causes it to overload/cut out should bring USB back within a few minutes otherwise a reboot may be required. Try this device that overloads the USB on the troubled computer on another computer if you want to confirm its problem.

Unfortunately with the model that is USB only and no PS2 port for keyboard/mouse, the only suggestion I have to determine if its hardware or driver related is to burn a Linux DVD off of another computer such as the Knoppix Live Linux Distro DVD, and boot this troubled computer off of the Linux DVD Disc assuming it has a DVD-ROM drive. If your keyboard and mouse work after the disc loads then its not hardware related. If you still have no keyboard or mouse then its most likely hardware related.

The good thing is that if it is hardware related you can FIX it by installing a USB card, but most PCI USB cards max out at 4 ports so if you need 8 ports, you will need to buy a USB hub to go ALONG with it to give you the necessary port count.

If you find that it is driver related because the USB ports work fine under Knoppix Linux, then I'd boot the system off of the system recovery set and perform a repair installation which will CORRECT for a bad USB driver. Then you should be all set.Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting the power supply clears this problem with USB ports.

My Logitech M100 is scrolling up and down randomly on its own. I still have control over the scroll wheel but I cannot stop my webpage from scrolling up and down. This STOPS only when I disconnect the USB cable. I have tried using other ports without any success. This also effects the volume meter and weapon changes in video games. Please help  Please avoid multiple post. If you have posted in a wrong thread, it will be moved by a mod. It also CONFUSES helpers like myself, now which one to reply lol.Sorry lol my mouse was plugged in at that mo and I didn't realise that it had scrolled down and I clicked software by mistake. I marked that thread as solved.  So is the problem solved or not?Sounds like it's time to replace the mouse.Or the batteries.In MANY countries Logitech m100 comes with 3 yrs warranty. Though mouse are cheap these days, you may want to check if its under warranty.It's wired, so no batteries. Plus it's out of warranty period. Never mind guess I gotta replace it.It might be worth contacting Logitech anyway, their SERVICE is excellent and they have been KNOWN to sometimes replace items even out of warranty.  If you don't ask, you don't get certainly worth 5 minutes filling out the form to see.

Hello to you all
I hope that I post this TOPIC in the right forum.
I want to buy a new computer monitor, but I don't really know which one I should buy.
So EVERYONE feel free to post which monitors they are using (please also give some specs and your personal opinion)
My monitor:
Medion MD 30217 PG
50-60 Hz
17"
280 cd/m2
500:1
10ms

Pretty bad isn't it What's your budget, and what are you looking for in a monitor?  It's difficult to buy a brand new monitor that's terrible these days, most are at least passable in most respects, but if you're looking for a specific size, resolution, feature or characteristic, there are some which are better than others - it really depends what you're after and how much you have to spend.Ok I'll give some information although I just asked for your opinion on the monitors you have.
My new one should:
- not be a TN Panel
- cost not over 250 $
- should be bigger than 23"
- should have a good contrastApologies, I was answering the question I thought you were asking, as I don't think personally that even 1000 people giving OPINIONS on the monitor they personally own would be as helpful as a recommendation, as not every monitor they use will be what you're looking for or even necessarily still in production.

Nevertheless, I use a PCBank 27" monitor, 2560x1440 IPS panel, this uses the same panel used in the Apple Cinema Display and DELL 2711 to name two, but a slightly lower grade panel meaning a few dead pixels are acceptable.  Happily, mine has none.  It's an excellent monitor, fantastic value at just over £200 when I bought it compared to £600+ for the Dell.  The stand isn't as good but it suits me fine.  Quad HD resolution is the bomb This site has been very informative on monitors for me

http://www.pchardwarehelp.com/Monitor.php

This is a list of prices and things:

http://www.pchardwarehelp.com/guides/s-ips-lcd-list.php
I use a pair of Hazro HZ27WB monitors which like Calum's use the same panel as the Apple Thunderbolt displays with a resolution of 2560x1440.  The Hazros are QUITE a bit more expensive than the PCBank.etc ones but give a fully adjustable stand and UK based warranty which is an advantage for me.  The resolution and IPS panels are really good, you just need to get into the habit of aligning multiple windows on the same screen at once instead of maximising everything as you just end up with loads of empty space.

Hi there!
I'm currently working on an OAP neighbour's PC. It is a DELL Dimension 5150 running XP Home on 512mb RAM and I'm having some problems with it, to say the least.

The main issue he rang me about is that once it gets to the loading screen where the bar is scrolling across it just restarts the computer.
"Strange" I said. "I'll have a look" I said.
So, as he had explained, it comes up with the 'windows did not shut down PROPERLY etc' and which ever option you select it get as far as the loading bar and just restarts.

Here is a video of the problem:https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sceb9a5956a6r4p/PVR9NSxJsm

The thing that apparently caused the issue is that he had moved the base unit from the top of his desk to under it. Once it was there this problem manifested. So I checked all the basic stuff like connections, RAM etc and it was all secure with fans running as they should.
As you can see from the video, there are no POST beeps or any sign of error codes.
I tried to boot the Windows XP disk to try and run CHKDSK but as it was booting the disk up it restarted again.

So I ran my copy of the Utimate Boot CD (UBCD) and tried to run memtest from that and again it restarted. I was able to run checks on the HDD and they all came back just fine with no errors.

At this point poor George was getting tired so I said I would bring it home to have a better look at it. I tried to replace the PSU, but it refused to boot at all. I assume this is down to it being a 3rd party PSU, which DELL don't like. I tried swapping the RAM around to make SURE one of the sticks weren't defective. No avail. I replaced the RAM completely with some I had lying around and it just started beeping at me. I didn't take note of the POST code pattern, but when I put the old RAM back in and went to the bios the error log STATED 'memory sizes different' even though there was only one stick in 

I think that about concludes my venture so far. Pretty annoying really. I don't want to palm George off to high street repair shops as they are bound to take his eyes out.

Any help would be appreciated. ThanksThe 5150 does not use a Dell proprietary power supply, you can use most standard generic ATX power supplies with either a 24-pin or 20+4-pin main motherboard power connector. It sounds like the RAM might be faulty, or some other kind of hardware problem. Has it been bashed or dropped? (Often people say it hasn't when it has, so I don't know if asking will do any good) but the fact that the problem started after the base unit was relocated is not a coincidence, I'm sure.

Non-British members may need to have it explained that an "OAP" is an "Old Age Pensioner" - someone past retirement age (65 for men) who is dependent on the State Old Age Pension (which is not very much).
Thanks for the quick response. I've managed to steal some RAM from my DIY Arcade machine and the problem is exactly the same. So that's the RAM ruled out, I guess. So what does that leave?
If you say 3rd party PSUs are acceptable, then the PSU that I swapped in COULD very well be faulty, so I'm not ruling that out. I can assume that he possibly shorted it out when plugging in the power?
I did a sweep on the mother board and can't see any physical damage ie blown capacitors. Apparently it was lightly used, but he is a heavy smoker and the inside is a bit dirty and is currently stinking out my computer room.  I don't know what you mean when you ask if you can assume "he possibly shorted it out when he was plugging in the power". You can't "short out" an appliance or device just by plugging it in. As for motherboard damage, I didn't mean blown capacitors. These usually develop over time. I am talking about things caused by rough handling - knocks and jolts or being dropped - such as cracked motherboard, loosened RAM modules or CPU or display card, etc. When people move computers around they don't always do it very gently, especially if they are not very computer savvy, or he might have kicked it while it was under his desk. I tried looking at the video you linked to, but it just kept buffering and pausing, but I did see you had the base unit on its side. Is there a reason for not standing it up like it was designed to be? If the motherboard is cracked that is likely to be terminal but you could try looking at everything - the cpu, the RAM, any cards, and maybe this time take a note of any beep sequences?
Sorry. I tend to use the wrong words when explaining things. I understand what I mean, but I don't tend to TALK to other people about these kind of things so it doesn't tend to matter :/
Right, what I meant by 'shorting it out' is that I when the kettle lead is already powered and you plug it into the PSU and it makes that awful sparking noise where it's arcing, I assume that's not very healthy and could cause issues?
And as for the blown capacitors I've had a GPU before where the caps. were bust and I replaced them and it lived on for a few more years. Since then I've kept my eyes out for such problems.

I've had a good look on the motherboard and can't see anything visually, but that is obviously the least of my worries.

As for the computer being on it's side, it was just because I'd just shut the case and started it up like that. It has always been used upright and it had previously been tested upright, but I was just looking at the guts, fault-finding so it was still on it's side.

Just looked at that .mov and it is 72mb for the 35 seconds. Nice compression, iPhone  I assume your internet isn't that fast? Probably explains the buffering. I guess.

The beep sequence was only when I put in some other RAM that was, I assume, incompatible. I'll swap it back out to double check...... OK. I've posted an audio file of the beeps to the same link. What a horrible noise... But like I said, that's with alternative RAM in.

Thanks again Quote from: mylogon on November 26, 2013, 02:41:03 PM

I assume your internet isn't that fast? Probably explains the buffering. I guess.

I am building a custom computer and I was wondering if these parts would work with each other.  I am not an expert and do not know what I should look for to see if they will fit together.


Case - NZXT M59 (MID Tower)
Additional Case Fans - 2 x 120mm Blue LED Cooler Master Sickleflow High Performance Fans
Internal Lighting - Dual 12" Blue Cold Cathode Lighting
Intel Processor - Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ 6 MB Cache -
CPU Cooling - Corsair Hydro H90 Liquid Cooling
Intel Motherboard - MSI Computer Corp. Motherboard ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z87-G45
Memory - Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600MHz
Primary Hard Drive - 2TB 7200 RPM
Hard Drive Cooling - Hard Drive Cooling Fan Aluminum Internal
1st Optical Drive - DVD Writer
Graphics Card - Nvidia GEFORCE GTX 770 2GB
Power Supply - Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 750 Watt 80 Plus Bronze
Operating SYSTEM - Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit
Networking - Standard Onboard Ethernet
Sound Card - Integrated HD Audio
I would make a few changes, but if you're just wanting to know if it will work, the answer is yes, everything is compatible.yes its work.. but what you use for ??
anyway i rather choose Corsair AX1200i w/ 1200w then TX750 Looks good (if it's designed as a gaming PC) but I would certainly replace that MSI board with something from Gigabyte or ASUS.  You would also easily get away with a 650w PSU (Ignore the above post) and unless you do anything particularly RAM intensive, 8gb should be enough.

You may also want to consider getting an SSD, seems a shame to build a nice machine like that and have it run slow because you keep your OS on a mechanical hard drive.

Quote from: agen007bet on November 26, 2013, 06:04:05 PM

yes its work.. but what you use for ??
anyway i rather choose Corsair AX1200i w/ 1200w then TX750

I too am looking for a new monitor and have problems deciding what is BEST for my needs.    What is the difference? between LCD and LED?  Some say LCD with LED back-lighting.  What is that all about?     What is "isp" and do I need it with a 4 year old computer?      I want a large screen but is there a functional difference between 27" and 23"?  For example; would a 27" show more columns of a given spreadsheet than a 23" or just larger cells? Are some easier to adjust for brightness etc?  Is there a new technology that should be considered?  I would like to keep the coat below $300.            I know some of these questions seem to be pretty dumb but I at a loss to making a decision.  I would appreciate any suggestions that ANYONE would care to  give.  Thank you.LCD - Liquid CRYSTAL Display (same as your Casio wrist watch), can't be seen without back-lightling, so they use very thin & long fluorescent tubes.  If you look inside the cooling vents, they can be seen.  LCD with LED back-lighting substitutes LED's for the fluorescent tubes.  Fluorescent tubes wear out, LED's do not.

LED - Light Emitting Diode.  They produce their own light.  Most displays (monitors & TV's) are transitioning to these.

ISP - Internet Service Provider

Any screen can show more columns, but they all work best at their "native resolution".  Anything 20" & larger is usually 1600x900, for full High Definition (HD).  If your 23 & 27 both are 1600x900, everything will appear larger on the 27, if both are set at 1600x900.  You can set the resolution higher, but the images can get fuzzy.

• What is the difference? between LCD and LED? - This purely refers to the backlight.  An LED monitor still has an LCD panel but instead of fluorescent tubes, the backlight uses LEDs.  LED backlights are usually thinner, brighter and use less power than the older fluorescent tube (or CCFL) ones.
• What is "isp" - I presume you mean IPS here - IPS is a type of LCD panel that has brighter colours and better viewing angles compared to cheaper "TN" panels.
• The size doesn't really relate to what you have on the screen, the resolution does.  If one monitor is 1600x900 resolution, you will have less available screen space than on one that is 1920x1080 no matter what the physical size is.  In other words, if you have a 22" monitor and a 27" one, both at the same resolution, you will have the same screen space so will only show the same number of columns on a spreadsheet but everything on the 27" monitor will show up bigger.

Anything 20" & larger is usually 1600x900, for full High Definition (HD).

My fairly normal 24" monitor is 1920 x 1080. I thought that was "full HD".

i have an ancient windows xp machine,a desktop. the weird thing is that when i turn on the power at the socket(uk type socket 240 volts) there is a strange buzzing(which sounds suspiciously like very small electrical arcs) and also, from the adaptor(a transformer device between my surge protector and my screen's power input) a very high pitched whine at the limit of my hearing(like a high voltage camera capacitor CHARGING up but higher in frequency). this has been so for several years now, the computer still works fine and i have never had any outages on it. can anyone suggest what may be going on, lose connections, or is it normal for transformers to buzz, high pitched whine whenever it is plugged in. note that for these sounds to occur i merely have to turn on the plug, i still hear them even when i have not pressed the power switch on either the tower or monitor.

could this be a sign of impending hardware failure, huge surges, etc.
thanksReplace the PSU with a unit of the same or greater wattage. Quote from: yyy on November 09, 2013, 09:43:22 AM

when i turn on the power at the socket(uk type socket 240 volts) there is a strange buzzing(which sounds suspiciously like very small electrical arcs) and also, from the adaptor(a transformer device between my surge protector and my screen's power input) a very high pitched whine at the limit of my hearing

The bad capacitor issue really began to blossom into the mainstream as a 'real world' problem around 1999, and continues on to the present day.  It now being 2010, I am STILL seeing later model  boards with this problem.  The TALE behind why the capacitor problem exists in the first place is because of a large-scale industrial espionage foul-up.  Some component manufacturers decided to steal an electrolyte formula from another competitor.  Little be known to them, the stolen formula was incomplete and flawed.  They didn't discover this until it was too late and they had manufactured and distributed literally MILLIONS of these flawed capacitors.  However, it's been going on way too long to simply blame on an industrial espionage boo-boo in my humble opinion, as this problem is still extremely common, and hasn't slowed down.  Personally, I think it all boils down to shoddy components that are manufactured by shoddy component makers.

So: buzzing plug and normal switching wall wart behaviour, or failing power supply... take your pick. I thought OP clearly identified the sounds as coming from the plug that goes in the  power outlet (pc) and power brick (monitor)...

Surely an arc noise in an outlet is not a good thing and can lead to fire.

I'd replace the cord if its a 2 part to the external power supply. Or have an electrician replace the outlet if its an old outlet with weak/worn connection.

my bad on assuming it was the computer PSU. On cold medicine and head is cloudy = missed important details. 

Surely an arc noise in an outlet is not a good thing and can lead to fire. I'd replace the cord if its a 2 part to the external power supply. Or have an electrician replace the outlet if its an old outlet with weak/worn connection.

arc noise is not in socket itself but rather in the cable from the socket into a plastic box marked "DVE switching adaptor" between screen and plug socket. noise is very quiet and changes when you wiggle the wires.

You may want to re-read BC's post... Quote from: Gizmo j on November 16, 2013, 02:15:53 PM

BC_Programmer

Are you sure?

Because I watched Killzone shadow fall on YouTube and the graphics look AMAZING, it looks lile Crysis 2 on max settings + it runs in 60fps!

It seems realistic that a 8350+7970 would be necessary to match that performance

it seems extremely unlikely that a x4 760k+7870 would do that...but I'll try to do more research on the matter.

There is, of course, one major issue with that statement, which is that both the PS4 and XBox One cap their FPS at 30fps.

Would do what?

In this video it shows that It run on 60fps, and Sony stated that in firmware updates the frame rate would get better.

I doubt that it would match the performance of the PS4, meaning that it would not run the game the same way if killzone was released to PC.

Also, in case you never seen how good Killzone shadow fall looks here is a download link of super high bitrate 1080p 60fps of multiplayer.

http://blog.us.playstation.com/2013/11/04/killzone-shadow-fall-ultra-high-bitrate-multiplayer-footage/

A client just notified me that they had their laptop connected via Cat5 cable and child was running thru room and clotheslined the cat5 cable that was connected to the laptop and destroyed the RJ45 NIC port. They dont have wifi and dont want wifi for security paranoia, and this laptop doesnt have a PCMCIA slot.

LOOKING online I found this USB to 10/100/1000 Network Adapter Dongle linked below, but figured I'd check first to see if anyone has anything to SAY about these whether they work or are junk before placing order for one. She has an available USB port that this can CONNECT to. I am going to suggest also not stringing the Cat5 cable through livingroom to couch to avoid a USB port getting sheered out next.    She is looking for a low cost repair vs replacing connector on the main board etc so I think this is her only option right now.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2690RG7510I've never used one or seen one used, although I have seen them for sale, so I can't comment from my own experience.
I would suspect it'll work fine, just not as fast as a "normal" NIC - well, of course, since USB2 is 480Mb/s and Gigabit Ethernet is, well, 1000Mb/s, heh.  But leaving that aside, I think you might see slightly higher CPU usage but nothing major, I would imagine it'll work fine for general internet usage and normal home network usage, just don't expect to see "native" performance for huge file transfers.I have used one of these USB 2.0 to Lan. Works good. But these are a bit risky than the one you have mentioned. Your one (With wire extension) is better as the device doesn't keep hanging there at the usb port. I have heard many people COMPLAINING that by mistake the device broke along with the USB port because they kept there hand near or on the device etc.Hi

Just check the laptop has USB3.0 I haven't used that brand but in the specs it APPEARS not to support 2.0 or 1.1. If ithe laptop is only USB2.0 better getting a USB2.0 to ethernet . Also check that it has drivers for their version of windows.

Lisamaree
Ah, it's USB3, not USB2...ignore my comment on the speed being limited by the USB2 bus, but my points on the CPU usage etc are still valid.  Probably not much of a big deal either way though, sure it'll work fine.Thanks everyone...

and yes at first I was like gigabit? and saw USB 3.0 but 2.0 backwards compatible, so it should work at 100mbps on USB 2.0. The laptop is running Windows 7 32-bit home premium also and its a dual-core Intel with 3GB RAM. Since its her only option other than repairing the trashed ethernet port I am going to pick one up for her and give it a try on her system. The good thing is that she doesnt do many network intensive functions. Most of the time its just Facebook and Apps.

I have the Toshiba WINDOWS 8 laptop. When I power it on , It goes straight to no bootable device - please restart system. Can you tell me what I have to do to fix this probem?  From the SCANT information you've provided it could be a bad hard drive or loose hard drive connection. Please post the ENTIRE message you see. How old is the laptop?For some reason my computer does this too but PRESSING F12 to get into the boot menu and selecting my boot drive fixes it, did this for 2 week straight every boot but yesterday and today it was all good. Temperamental THING -.-"    Quote from: juicebox on November 22, 2013, 03:51:22 PM

For some reason my computer does this too but pressing F12 to get into the boot menu and selecting my boot drive fixes it, did this for 2 week straight every boot but yesterday and today it was all good. Temperamental thing -.-"   

I wanted to buy Daniel Bradbery's NEW debut album released today so I purchased it online via ITunes.
 So now I want to burn a CD to listen to in my car.
 #1,  I cannot GET my DVD drive to accept a blank disc in order to burn this file.
It keeps ejecting the disc followed with a dialog box that says "insert a blank disc"
I've tried blank CD-RW and DVD-RW disc but I still keep getting get this dialog box.
 This machine is HP Compact 6715b, Vista Business x86.
I've had no other issues with this optical drive and it boots/reads any disc that I put in it --- but it just will not recognize an empty disc in order to write/burn a file.
 
This may be a hardware issue but I suspect this may be something I'm doing wrong.
Thanks for any help!
Mike
 Look for the optical drive firmware updates on its manufacturer's website. Sometimes, firmware updates fixes many problems.thanks for the help but firmware update has not helped.
I did manage get this drive to burn a disc of the file in question via ITunes burner. But now, when I load the disc into the drive nothing happens - no auto-play, and it is not accessible via 'computer>disc D, DVD drive'.
 The disc burn function obviously WORKED since I can see the visual tracks imprinted on the disc surface.
 I inserted a brand new 'known empty DVD-RW disc' into the optical drive and attempted to access it resulting in it ejecting the disc and displaying a dialog box as shown in my attachment.
 This may be a settings issue within my machine. That's why I'm here again asking for help. I'm lost on this one.
I do have another DVD drive that I can physically instal into this machine if that's what you recommend as my next step. or?
My thanks and cudos for your help PCdoc!!!
Mike

[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]You are most welcome
Yes you should try with another dvd drive. I also had this type of problem earlier and changing drive and sometimes flashing firmware has helped.Are you sure you remembered to "finalise" the burn when it finished ? ?The optical drive I intended to install from my other laptop will not work because the connection is different - IDE vs SATA. So, so much for that idea...
Patio, I followed the burn-disc directions and the ITunes burner never ejected the disc. I eventually ejected it manually. So you may be on to an error on my part of not letting it finalize. I'll try to burn another disc to see. It's irritating to use the I tunes burner because it shows no information about the status of the burner progress. I let the disc stay in for 1 1/2 hours before ejecting. So this time I'll let it run until it self-ejects.
I'll post back with the results LATER today, tomorrow, next week, next month.... or when ever the disc ejects automatically. Hopefully sooner than later.
Thanks again for your help!!!
Mike
 The other thing to consider is that car CD players probably won't recognise the iTunes format...so you will need to convert the files for the disc to work in that player...
Problem is i forget which format needs to be used. Quote from: patio on November 28, 2013, 07:37:06 AM

The other thing to consider is that car CD players probably won't recognise the iTunes format...so you will need to convert the files for the disc to work in that player...
Problem is i forget which format needs to be used.

The OP says he wants to play the songs in his car. That would mean the standard CD-Audio format.

I have a IBM Thinkcentre. My CPU meter is ALWAYS running HIGH. How can I lower it?.In task manager, what is hogging the CPU... service or app names needed? This could be malware, but I dont want to junk to conclusions. Also what is the hardware specs or make/model computer.OP is running Windows 7, so Speed FAN should WORK fine.
He can try Sped Fan to see if the results differ.
Here is a link.
http://www.filehippo.com/download_speedfan/

I have a couple of mouse cursor issues. First, about my system. I have an ACER Predator G3620 desktop tower computer running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1. It has 12GB RAM, the HDD data are ST2000DM001-9YN164 [Hard drive] (2000.40 GB) -- drive 0, s/n W1E0Q9G1, rev CC4B, SMART Status: Healthy, here is the video card and DISPLAY data       NVIDIA GeForce GT 630 [Display adapter], Acer X223W [Monitor] (22.0"vis, s/n ETLDX0D0119180A3748512, May 2009), and the sound data are NVIDIA High DEFINITION Audio Realtek High Definition Audio. I run comodo firewall, avira antivir, and use Malwarebytes antimalware. There is no windows cd. The mouse is an Echostar. It has worked fine with this system for over a year.

The mouse cursor will stick in place on the screen at random times and places and I really have to move the mouse around to get it unstuck. This happens several times a day while I am working, sometimes several times an hour. The other issue is that out of no where the mouse will go all over the screen opening up and clicking many things at once. I noticed the last time this happened I banged my mouse on the mouse pad because it had just been exhibiting the former issue. I have to reboot to stop it. I ran my A/V and anti-malware but it still does it a few times a week or even a couple times a day sometimes. I am the only user. I have time warner cable broadband Internet. I have not done anything inside the case except to blow it out with an air duster.

I have tried the usual steps including DISK clean, CCleaner, scan disk on boot, SFC /SCANNOW, unplugging and reattaching the mouse, rolling back the video driver and reinstalling it. Any suggestions for either or both issues are very welcome.
Have you tried using a different mouse?

So I MADE a deal with my youngest brother to buy his EVGA GeForce GTX 260 core 216 Superclocked for $40 that still works like new and clean of dust etc and is far more powerful than the ASUS ATI Radeon HD 5450 with passive heatsink I have been currently using for gaming.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130400 Video Card Link

Only problem is that the power supply I have which I thought had the 6pin molex connectors, it does not have them, so I have to buy a power supply that can drive this video card and looking for suggestions on a quality power supply that also isnt expensive.

This card states that a 500 watt minimum power supply is required, and I have been looking at a few different ones that are $50 or less, however I dont want to buy one that lasts for 6 months and then becomes problematic, so maybe I should spend more.

The case this is going into is a mATX, and I ended up cutting a piece of cardboard to the length of the video card and fitting it into the case with the side cover off and I have about just barely 1 inch of clearance to the hard drives, so it will be a tight fit, but will fit in the mATX minitower case.

I found these power supplies, but the feedback shows that these can be a problem:

*I have had thermaltake before and so I might go with the 600watt that is the first link below with LEAST upset people vs the Raidmax of the other 2 links. I'm open for suggestions if there is a better supply for long life use that is 500watts or larger that can drive this video card with 2 x 6-pin molex.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153166    18% reporting 3 eggs or less of 5

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152028    26% reporting 3 eggs or less of 5

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152040    37% reporting 3 eggs or less of 5


Below is benchmark info just on the GPU's and this $40 purchase shows that it should be far better than the cheap Radeon HD5450 with passive heatsink. My brother claims that MANY games can run at max settings with this video card, although any brand new games might have to be set to a lower setting for fast frame rates. He spent crazy money on an upgrade to this card for bragging rights in his $2500 system. Way more money than I'd spend, but its great to have a source of good used and bargain priced high end parts to purchase when he goes through the need for speed and bragging rights upgrades.

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon+HD+5450

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+260I wouldn't trust any of those, they all look to be pretty terrible, low end units.  A clear sign of their low quality can be seen by the fact that they have the red switch to change between different MAINS voltages, all PSUs that are actually worthwhile nowadays will do this switching automatically so having a switch is a sure sign that the PSU is low end.  That and the fact that both Thermaltake and Raidmax are pretty low end, budget brands to begin with.

This is the minimum I would get when buying a PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013 (Really good unit, especially for the PRICE)

It makes sense to get a good PSU as it's the one part that should never really need upgraded, get a good one now and it should last you for many years (probably outlast the rest of your system). Quote

A clear sign of their low quality can be seen by the fact that they have the red switch to change between different mains voltages, all PSUs that are actually worthwhile nowadays will do this switching automatically so having a switch is a sure sign that the PSU is low end.

It makes sense to get a good PSU as it's the one part that should never really need upgraded, get a good one now and it should last you for many years (probably outlast the rest of your system).

This is the minimum I would get when buying a PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013 (Really good unit, especially for the price)

have had XFX video cards before without problems, so their power supply line should be good too.

I disagree with the statement the lack of the voltage switch indicates a better quality PSU unit...very broad generalisation that's simply not true...
I just spent 150 Bucks on a high end server PSU and it has the switch...does that mean it's junk ? ?

...Lack of switch doesn't indicate it being high quality but a fairly low priced PSU combined with lack of automatic voltage switching indicates it being a fairly low end unit...

My Canon Mp499 printer is WORKING fine, as is the copier. However, when trying to scan neither the scan button, nor opening the device and PRINTERS, RIGHT click, start scan, works. There is no message displayed, no activity from the printer at all - just nothing happens.I have this problem with my HP Deskjet.  After much frustration I found a go AROUND. That is to open the HP soulution CENTER where I find clicks to operate the scanner.

I have an IBM Thinkpad T41 which won't turn on. When the laptop is plugged into the charger, the battery indicator light flashes a few times, goes dark and repeats.

I have tried pressing the on button with the power cord plugged in and the laptop will not turn on. I have also tried it plugged in and having the battery removed to no avail. Is this a battery issue or ANOTHER problem with the laptop?

I've always thought that you could USE a laptop plugged in even if the battery is dead...

Please advise. Thank you for your assistance. Does the led keep on flashing or does it flash number of times. Please count number of times it flashes before it goes off. Led flashing is normally like an error code.Thanks for the reply. It flashes 3 times with the last flash ending rather abruptly. The first two flashes are solid, however the third one appears more like a half flash if that makes any sense. Does it also give beeps along with LED flash?
Try with another charger. Sometimes the possibility is the charger is giving improper voltage because of which the battery did not charge. And due to same reason, the laptop does not power on.Sounds like either the charger is dead or the jack where the charger connects to the laptop is damaged.
Does the jack seem loose?  Try another charger if you can to rule out one possibility.Calum is right, I would get a multimeter for cases like this and check the power adapter. Typically BATTERIES with older laptops go bad so I would not waste your time with that. DC jacks also DO go bad even if it does not look damaged but in some cases can be fixed with only glue (I believe the T 45 the dc jack is soldered to the board if I recall). this still requires you to basically take almost the whole THING apart down to the board. there are a few other possibilities I can point out if you like.. check the power adapter first.To add a little bit more information, the computer does not beep at all. All the shows up is the flashing LED. I have also tried charging the computer both with the cord plugged in directly into the laptop and with it plugged into the DOCKING station.

Keep replacing the CMOS battery.She won't be home today and I work during the week, but next time I go see her I definitely will replace the CMOS battery. It's odd that it works here and other places but not hers, unless maybe the battery recharges itself a bit when the computer is running? She lives a little farther than other places I tried and it is cold here, so maybe it gets too weak by the time I get to her place. But then there's the way the computer starts itself when I plug it in the wall without even pressing the pwer button. At least for now it works. Everyone keeps mentioning the battery, ILL just replace it. Thanks for your help Quote from: Ironman4444 on November 24, 2013, 06:49:32 AM

But then there's the way the computer starts itself when I plug it in the wall without even pressing the pwer button.

Oops I missed a line in my last post, but I wanted to also mention I checked her voltage with a voltmeter and everything is working fine. Her outlets are all 120V~ and the GROUNDS are all good..

quoted at 230 V (+10/-6%)

I have a FULL Seagate Barracuda 3tb internal hard drive that just stopped working that I would like to recover the data. My big road block in trying to recover the data myself is that my computer is not recognizing that the drive is connected. It has not been physically damaged and has not left the computer in the 11 months that I've had it besides for the rare occasion I add a new part to my computer. It is under warranty so whatever I do I would like not to void the warranty so I can have it replaced once I get the date. Here is what happened.

Last night when I TRIED to move a file to my hard drive it was really slow and and kept giving me errors. It finally worked and I started watching the file from the hard drive on my media player. Half way through my media player gave me all kinds of errors and the file stopped working. After closing my media player I saw that my hard drive seemed to have been disconnected (It did not show up in "My Computer". I tried rebooting, taking the hard drive out and putting it back in and switching which bay I had it in (I have a case that allows for hot swapping). None of this has worked. When I put it in the computer you can hear it working (all normal noises, no bad ticking or anything). It slows/freezes up the computer as the computer seems to be trying to read the hard drive but after awhile it seems like it gives up and the computer returns back to normal without recognizing the hard drive.

I took it to a local computer shop and they confirmed that it now a dead drive. They said they should be able to recover the data off the hard drive and put it on another drive for $129 or $189 if it PROVES to be difficult. This is a lot better then the $300 flat fee that Seagate would CHARGE because its under warranty and a *censored* of a lot better then the $600 to $3,000 they would charge if it wasn't under warranty. But since they both say they should be able to recover the data from it I have to assume there is a way for me to do it from home. I have OnTrack EasyRecovery Professional on my computer but I just need a way to get my computer to recognize the drive. If anyone can help me I would be greatly appreciative. Quote from: zaphenomenalone on December 04, 2013, 02:34:27 PM

since they both say they should be able to recover the data from it I have to assume there is a way for me to do it from home.

My wife's Dell Desktop went into power save mode and won't recover. Black screen at all times (before and after entering Windows desktop). I've tried a different display and dvi cable - same result. I switched from DVI to Analog and it works fine. Do we agree it's almost certainly the display adapter? Thanks guys.ALSO, I haven't replaced a display adapter in YEARS. I'd love a recommendation for a replacement for the above card (Nvidia 7300LE). The system is a Dell Dimension DM061 (I think that translates to an E520) with a 300W power supply. Again, this is for my wife and we don't need a "high powered"? card. She has DirectX 11 on the system so I guess it would be nice if the card supports that. Thanks again.Hello Allan, yes most certainly it is the display adapter.. TRY and reseat the video card and give it another go if you have not already done that.. I have, but thanks.What I mean my reseat is. not in a frantic panic, but look at the surroundings in the slot and to make sure any dust or dirt is clear of the slot, fan "or" fans are all clear of dust.. if you are ABLE to take the heat sink off the video card and are able to reapply thermal compound is a bonus... take it one step at a time all is not lost.alright than reflow the thing.... The card is seated fine - the analog connection works. Let's move on, thank you.Move on to what? you started the post out with "stuck in power save mode" and my wife's video card has not been changed in years? tried another cable but works half *censored* I assume but now you need someone here to tell you what is a good choice to buy? please do tell me what else it is you need? Quote

I switched from DVI to Analog and it works fine.

Sounds like the card to me as well, do you get the same issue with the card in a different PC or tested the monitor's DVI connection on something else (this could also be the fault albeit very unlikely)

That said, the 7300 LE is an extremely weak card by modern standards so any card on the market today should be more powerful, something like a GeForce 610 or even a 210 would be a good replacement and will run fine on that PSU.  Of course you may want to take this opportunity to upgrade to a good graphics card and PSU if your wife does want the ability to run games in the future.

camerongray - just a quick follow up to say I went with your suggestion for the GF 610. Installed it this morning and it's more than adequate for my wife's purposes. Thanks again.

So I was looking at reviews for CPU option upgrades for my newest gaming build motherboard and I am finding lots of people reporting issues with the Biostar A960D+ RUNNING the newer AMD FX-xxxx CPU's to where the CPUs will run ok at native clock, but that the Turbo Feature of the CPU's have to stay off to avoid a melt down of the chipset and voltage regulators. As well as overclocking with this board comes at risk of causing damage due to excessive heat of chipset and regulators.

Question is, if I stick with this motherboard and GET a CPU that has this Turbo Feature and I run it without the Turbo Feature enabled, is this going to really hold back the CPU's performance potential much or is it a small percentage? 

* This Turbo feature reminds me of the 25/33Mhz FSB Turbo switch on an old 386 to where there is some gain in speed, but not that much.

This motherboard I pretty much got for free since it came bundled with 8GB of Crucial Ballistix DDR3 RAM, and was priced about the cost of the RAM itself, even though it was sold as with free RAM in the bundle. So if I have to get a better motherboard I COULD I suppose, but if the performance gain in this Turbo feature is small, it may not justify $80 for a better motherboard.

I was originally going to spend up to $200 for the AMD FX-8350 4Ghz 8-core CPU, but I have been waiting for almost 9 months for the price tag to drop to $150 for that CPU. Reading later into those who have bought this CPU, I am now finding out that many people are claiming that even at native clock the heatsink that comes bundled with this 8-core CPU is not adequate to keep the CPU cool and so people are suggesting buying a better heatsink. In addition to this there are many complaints that the heatsink that comes bundled from AMD has an issue with the latches that seem too short and require you to bear down lots of force downward onto the board to get the latch to lock. I am not one to force a heatsink down to the point that it warps the motherboard like that, so I put my plans on buying this CPU on hold even when the price dipped to $159.99 for a day on Tiger Direct in which I was very very close to clicking BUY.

Currently I have a Athlon II X4 620 2600Mhz quadcore in it and it runs ok, but it would be nice to have an all powerful 8-core system to hold my gaming needs for the next 5+ years to which I may just need to upgrade RAM and Video Cards along the way. I have also been looking at the AMD FX-8320 3.5Ghz 8-core which is about $40 cheaper on average to the 8350 and 500Mhz slower, but with just $40 between the 8320 and the 8350, why not hold out for the 8350 instead of settling for less processing power.

I also looked at the 4 and 6 core FX CPU's, but the performance gain in some doesnt justify spending the money when the current Athlon II x4 620 2600Mhz scores around some of the FX 4xxx series chips in benchmark scores, and the FX 6xxx series are at scores in benchmark between what I already have and the 8-core .... so once again I am thinking why settle for less and holding out for the FX-8350 4Ghz which has the 4.2Ghz Turbo Feature, while the FX -8320 is 3.5Ghz with 4.0Ghz Turbo feature.

Here are both CPU's that I have been close to purchasing both when their prices have dropped for a day or two. The FX-8320 dropped to $129.99 the one day and I almost bought that when the FX-8350 was still not budging much and still $179.99.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113284  = FX-8350

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113285  = FX-8320

For the fact that the frequency difference between the 8320 is 500Mhz for Turbo and 200Mhz for the 8350 for Turbo, I am assuming that the performance gain in the 8350 for the Turbo feature is 2.5x less than the lack of Turbo for the 8320. Messing around with systems overclocking etc, 200mhz generally doesnt really show much improvement to brag about, but 500mhz usually stands out as a larger difference among a native clock and overclock. So I am thinking that the 8350 would be less prone to feeling bottlenecked with the Turbo feature disabled at 4Ghz never running at 4.2Ghz vs the 8320 running at 3.5Ghz and never running at 4Ghz.

It all happened in one split second. I was on a bad site. I caught a virus. *censored* broke loose, my android tablet started making repetitive notification sounds. My HP desktop computer REBOOTED and a dos screen SAID one of my hard disk's (i have 3 internal 2tbs) faillure was imminent, i should start backing up soon...
I tried reinstalling windows 7 a few time, then windows 8, it worked but a strange noise appeared, its like a fan that seems to want to start something but just gives up after a second. Its not that loud but it not steady, it goes up, then goes down, in a vicious circle. So i find it annoying.
I dont have a microphone to make you listen... im sorry.
Do you know what if could be?
Could a software resolve the issue?
I scanned the hard disks for errors and the results say they are fine.
Could a virus do such a thing even after a few formattations of the drive containing windows.A virus cannot do this...so No.
A coincidence at best.
If the HDD's checked out fine it's something else...
Software will not resolve the issue.

You will need to remove a side panel and isolate where the noise is coming from...
If the PC is over a year OLD it may just need general physical maintenence and a cleanout...grab a can of compressed air and blow everything out...when blasting the fans hold the blades in place with a Q-tip or pencil...

Report back with the results... Paranoia.
 Fluke.
 Unplug the fan. 
 Also check the PSU (Power Supply UNIT) fan and casing fan (if any).

Suddenly my printer has stopped taking PRINT orders from the PC. I have cleaned the program from the computer and reinstalled from disc. The printer has acknoledge connection to the web by issuing a printed WLAN Report.  The computer is connected to the same hub but the printer will not follow instruction from the PC. Just stays in the Print Queue.I'd perform a factory reset on the printer, uninstall the driver software. Then follow the NORMAL installation procedures from Brother. You may have to turn on printer at a certain part of the installation of the software/driver in which it will detect the printer on the Network via a default IP or Mac ADDRESS Range or USB connection. And the follow the installation all the way to the end in which it should then work the same as it did the day you bought it.

Note: All personal settings will be wiped out by factory reset, so you will have to set up the all in ONE printer the same as you did first day out of the box.

http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/BSC/public/as/as_ot/en/faq/faq/000000/000100/000005/faq000105_015.html?reg=as&c=as_ot&lang=en&prod=mfcj6510dw_allThanks for your reply and links. I had reset all and it was connecting quite readily to the hub. I finally rebooted the hub and this solved the problem. The hub was connected to both the PC and the Printer, but it seams that somthing within the hub was not connecting the 2 items together. Now up and running. Thanks again. Pete.

• [size=78%]What is your budget?[/size]
• [size=78%]What are the intended uses of the machine?[/size]

I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum for this question, but I used my best judgement.

Anyways, I have an older PC... I mean, REAL old. A Dell Dimension E520 that RUNS Windows XP. It's a great PC and I have kept it in great shape by formatting the hard drive once a year and only keeping important files on it while keeping other things on my portable HD. Anyways, I'd love to be able to play the movies I've downloaded on my HDTV. So, what's the best connection to use? I've got USB PORTS on this PC, obviously and my TV is a brand new 51 INCH Samsung with USB and HDMI ports.

Can anyone suggest what I should buy so I can make my flatscreen my new PC monitor, basically? I'd really appreciate ANY help. I'm looking for the best possible transfer/screen quality so let me know what to look for at my local store or possibly online (Amazon?). Thanks a lot guys!Your Dell desktop has one VGA as built-in and a PCI express slot for a video card that atleast have an HDMI output. It's either you would use the VGA to HDMI converter (if the samsung TV doesn't come with a VGA slot) or buy a video card with HDMI without replacing the 300 WATTS power supply.Yep...i agree

Just use the VGA to plug it in to your tv....if your tv has hdmi then it most likely has VGA
Or you can buy a video card like jason2074 said... but i dont know if you want to spend money on your old computer.

VGA


[recovering disk space, attachment deleted by admin]Noone has mentioned how junky the results are gonna be with that older PC/Card...

Hey, I am building my first ever gaming pc, I picked all of my components but haven't bought it yet, I think they are compatible but am not 100% SURE. And because its going to cost me I want to MAKE sure I don't screw it up. My two main QUESTIONS are.... Will it work? Can it play high quality games? Here are my specs;

CPU - AMD FX-6350 3.9GHz Socket AM3+ Hexa Core

Motherboard - Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 AMD Socket AM3+

RAM - Crucial 4GB DDR3 1333MHz Memory Module Desktop' (4 times)

Graphics Card - Gainward NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 1GB Golden Sample

Hard Drive - Seagate 7200.14 2TB SATA III 3.5

Case - CoolerMaster HAF X Gaming Black Midi Tower

OS - Windows 7 Home office 64 bit

PSU - Powercool High Efficiency 550W

Optical Drive - LiteOn DH-4O3S-04-B 4x Internal SATA Blu-ray ROM Drive

Thanks for your help, it means alot That looks okay but what is your budget?

The ONE thing that really needs changed is that PSU - A PSU is a very important component and should not be "cheaped out on" - Something like an XFX Core Edition or Pro Series would be fine, or something from the Corsair HX or TX range. Quote from: 12midgleye on December 07, 2013, 09:22:19 AM

CPU - AMD FX-6350 3.9GHz Socket AM3+ Hexa Core

Motherboard - Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 AMD Socket AM3+

So here is the rundown to the story of my very sad week.

I've been playing FFXIV: ARR on my rig since closed beta, which was sometime over summer, with no problems whatsoever. Recently (this last few weeks), my system had been shutting down while i play, seemingly out of nowhere. So i download some temp MONITORS for my cpu (i5 2400 3.1GHz) and gpu(NVidia gt430), and see that while my cpu is nice and comfortable at around 20-30 degrees, but gpu had been overheating somewhere in the 90's. I proceed to open my box up and clean out all the dust bunnies, which works for about a week, only to have the problem return.

I then begin my adventure of trying to make my Nvidia GT 430 work again so that i can continue to play my game. My two suspicions were either thermal paste needed reapplication, or my fan was busted. so honestly? i tried the fan first, which had a hair caught in it, but didnt help enough to allow me to play longer than 10 minz. thermal paste failed. So at this point, i've decided it's not even a gaming card, so i may as WELL reap some CYBER monday benefits and buy a new one for cheap.

So i order a ATI,AMD, whatever, HD 7750 core edition for 100$, it arrives and i'm super excited. I delete all my nvidia drivers, swap the card, install new drivers, and before i even start the game i notice that my CPU is now idling between 65-75 degrees. im confused, but try the game anyways, only to find that my performance was far better on my old gt430.

My Cpu sometimes gets as high as 95 degrees since ive installed this graphics card and although the card itself stays very cool, it doesnt matter because my cpu is panting just to stay on it seems.

Please help me, i feel like i've tried everything, driver sweeper re-install, searching and searching has only brought me here to ask you guys. Quote from: elite4seth on December 08, 2013, 12:16:36 AM

i tried the fan first, which had a hair caught in it, but didnt help enough to allow me to play longer than 10 minz. thermal paste failed. So at this point, i've decided it's not even a gaming card, so i may as well reap some cyber monday benefits and buy a new one for cheap.

So i order a ATI,AMD, whatever, HD 7750 core edition for 100$, it arrives and i'm super excited. I delete all my nvidia drivers, swap the card, install new drivers, and before i even start the game i notice that my CPU is now idling between 65-75 degrees. im confused, but try the game anyways, only to find that my performance was far better on my old gt430.

My Cpu sometimes gets as high as 95 degrees since ive installed this graphics card and although the card itself stays very cool, it doesnt matter because my cpu is panting just to stay on it seems.

motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157315

cpu

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116889

psu

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182021

ram

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225


okay so the main questions i  got are 3 cause i hear this motherboard has alot of LIMITS and yes i know its cheap but im reallly on a low budget cant afford something thats  a litttle higher

dvd burner

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106289

computer case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811237037

1.Will the motherboard support the cpu? cause i know its not an i3 i5 or i7 its a dual core ivy cpu but it is the same scocket 1155

2.will the power supply have the RIGHT connctions to power up a sata hard drive and the dvd burner and 2 fans like the one on the computer case

3.lastly its teh ram iknow its 3 sticks and mother board has 2 slots but dont WORRY about that i just want to know if it willl get supported by the motherboard with the cpu together cause i heard  it depends on cpu

iif theres other problems u think will be a problem please tell me

thank you for your timeThe motherboard and CPU is compatible according to ASRock http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H61M-DGS/?cat=CPU
The PSU most likely would be fine on cable and power connectors. Not sure of the reliability though.
Why not go for 2X4Gb sticks instead? The motherboard may technically work, but I'd avoid it for a couple of reasons.  Firstly AsRock boards aren't that good, you would be better getting one from Gigabyte/ASUS/Biostar,  Secondly, your board has the H61 chipset that was designed for Sandy Bridge, this chipset will support Ivy Bridge CPUs but may need a BIOS update to do this, in that case you would need a Sandy Bridge CPU to do the update.  You would be best to get a board from Gigabyte/ASUS/Biostar with either a H77 or B75 chipset.  This board would be a great option (I have used it in several builds myself) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138379

I also wouldn't trust that PSU, the PSU is an important part of your computer and should not be cheaped out on.  Get something from a reputable brand such as Corsair, Seasonic, or XFX.  300w should be enough for your machine now but you'd also want to consider any future upgrades as adding things like a video card will require substantially more power.

That is also a triple channel kit of RAM - The board has 2 RAM slots so you would need to get a set of, at most, 2 sticks.  Best option would be to either get 2x4gb or 2x2gb.thank you for your answers

will the psu be good even if i want to use the motherboard just for basic thing office word  and little works not gaming and also thank you for ur advised on what motherboard i should get im thinking hard

lastly the ram i showed u is already bought from a older pc i bought 3 years ago just wated to see if it FITS on this new  motherboard

THANKS again for your helpits cause i already bought the ram along time ago

thanks for respoinding

Is there any wireless speaker I can get for under $100 that will WORK reasonably.  I bought a Jamparty $100 the other which I will return because it keeps loosing the radio coming from my PHONE app.  For it to work you have to have the radio in direct line of sight and I do mean direct.  I'm not sure of the distance requirement-probably 30' LIKE the rest.  With this one all you have to do to drop the radio station is put your body between the phone and the speaker...or just go around a corner in the house.  The same THING happens if I play a recorded song from my library.  As soon as you turn off the Jamparty speaker the phone reconnects the radio.  If you read the reviews for this thing most give at least 4 stars-which I SUSPECT are padded from the manufacturer.  A few reviews talk about poor connectivity.  In addition to the Jamparty I bought another Phillips wireless speaker which I will also return even thought I've not taken it out of the box.  It was $100.  The reviews are the same as for Jamparty.  A friend has a Bose wireless speaker which was $300 and he can walk around the house without loosing the signal. Quote

  ...A friend has a Bose wireless speaker which was $300 and he can walk around the house without loosing the signal.

My boyfriend built a computer for me about a year ago. All new parts. It is runs windows vista 64. I have never had PROBLEMS with it until recently. For the past couple of weeks when my computer GOES into sleep mode from inactivity, it is able to start up but does not display anything on the monitor.  When it does this, I shut it down by holding the power button, leave it for at least 30 seconds, and turn it back on. When starting up it prompts me to either start normally or go into safe mode. I always just start normally. Now when I try to start my computer everything is displayed in GREEN and black. It claims windows will not start and prompts me to start normally or go into safe mode, but neither works. Not sure at all what is happening.Hello there, do you happen to have the windows vista installation CD? there is a "start up repair" option within the cd when you boot from it.. Turn off sleep mode and all other Windows power saving SETTINGS...they don't work in general.
If you are gonna be away from the PC for an extended period just power it down. Quote from: adalin94 on December 03, 2013, 04:56:13 AM

It claims windows will not start and prompts me to start normally or go into safe mode, but neither works. Not sure at all what is happening.

My boyfriend built a computer for me about a year ago. All new parts. It is runs windows vista 64. I have never had problems with it until recently. For the past couple of weeks when my computer goes into sleep mode from inactivity,

Hello there, do you happen to have the windows vista installation CD? there is a "start up repair" option within the cd when you boot from it..

How do you try to wake up your comp from sleep mode? For the green color, do you have a graphics card installed?

My boyfriend built a computer for me about a year ago. All new parts. It is runs windows vista 64. I have never had problems with it until recently. For the past couple of weeks when my computer goes into sleep mode from inactivity, it is able to start up but does not display anything on the monitor.  When it does this, I shut it down by holding the power button, leave it for at least 30 seconds, and turn it back on. When starting up it prompts me to either start normally or go into safe mode. I always just start normally. Now when I try to start my computer everything is displayed in green and black. It claims windows will not start and prompts me to start normally or go into safe mode, but neither works. Not sure at all what is happening.

i wann ask about my calling sound when i use skype the voice comes but the other PARTY didnot hear me at all i bought a new procceser n its seeking dis problem i m USING widows 7 n my microphone is alright not problem with the microphone help me wat problem in it y ppl cant hear me ? Quote from: gogi lolo on December 07, 2013, 03:09:44 AM

i m using widows 7

My OLD Altec LANSING ATP3 is dead.

I'm looking for a NEW speaker in the range of $100.

Any suggestion?

My computer screen freezes randomly meaning that it doesn't happen all the time. When it happens everything in my screen just stops for a 1 second and then it keeps going, this will happen about for 10 or 20 consecutive minutes before it stops. This happens randomly, it doesn't matter if I am playing games or using the browser because it even happens when the computer has no applications running, just scrolling the mouse around desktop it will freeze with no applications open which is weird. When I watch videos a weird robot/lagging noise starts when the computer freezes. I know I have no viruses because I scanned my computer many times and also I did the memtest to see if it was the ram but everything appeared to be okay. PLEASE HELP

Specs:
GTX 760 2GB
Cooler Master 750 W Bronze
H87-D3H Gigabyte Motherboard
i5 4670
8GB Kingston Hyper X ram
Windows 7 Professional 64 BitAre you overclocking any of this? I had a similar issue occuring with a gaming rig when it was overclocked. I brought my clock back to native clock of 2600Mhz and the problem went away.

My system passed memtest86, was running within proper operating temps and was having same issues with a 195mhz overclock bringing the FSB to 215Mhz for DDR2 800Mhz RAM, because multiplier was locked at x13 on this CPU. The small gain at 2795Mhz from 2600Mhz wasnt worth the system acting up randomly like this so I went back to 200Mhz FSM memory setting bringing system back to 2600Mhz for the Athlon Quadcore.

The video and audio lag sounded like Max Headroom, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Headroom_(character) or a sound from the Matrix movie with a strange tone for like 1 second.
I don't do CPU nor GPU overclocking. Probably not driver related, but do you have latest hardware drivers installed?YES, I check for updates every week to be sure that all my programs run as RELIABLE as possible.I'd return the vid card for a replacement...Before doing that. I forgot to say that every time my computer starts lagging when I open task manager to check the CPU performance the percentage jump up and down really fast. When it starts lagging this is what I see in task manager 4 to 17 percent then it goes down to 2 and then JUMPS to 14 percent. The CPU perfomance just seems that its going crazy. I am kind of confused what to do now
Did you establish that it does this is safe mode?
What  if you reduce the screen resolution?
Are you running more than one anti-virus?

I am Running Malwarebytes and Windows Security Essentials. Should I eliminate one?No...they are fine together...just don't run more than 1 scan of any protection app at a time.I really don't know what to do. Should I configure something or change any parts?? Is this a home-built computer?
Yes? How long ago., Did it always do this?Did you try fail-safe BIOS settings?
Do you have any parts from other PCs you own? Have you tried to contact the board maker to see if your serial # is among a set of known defects?

I build this rig. Its all brand new and its about 2 months old. It never did this, this lag/freezing problem started about 1 or 2 weeks ago. I never tried fail-safe BIOS settings how do you do that and what does it do? Quote

Before doing that. I forgot to say that every time my computer starts lagging when I open task manager to check the CPU performance the percentage jump up and down really fast. When it starts lagging this is what I see in task manager 4 to 17 percent then it goes down to 2 and then jumps to 14 percent. The CPU perfomance just seems that its going crazy. I am kind of confused what to do now

Hello and thank you for reading this help would be really appreciated alright I just got a ENVY touchsmart 17.3 inch laptop and it has a intel core i7 4700mq processor it normally runs at 2.4 ghz but with turbo boost it goes up to 3.4GHz so when I run emulators LIKE gamecube or Nintendo DS emulators turbo boost kicks in and keeps it around 3.2-.3.3 GHz and itll stay on for an hour or two so it does make my cpu get a bit warm but once it gets to hot I give it a brake and It stays in my bedroom which is in the basement so its pretty cold down here how much could the cpu last if I use it like this and how much would it cost to replace it please help and sorry for any spelling errors in a hurry I had to go somewhere It's working normally, just don't block the cooling intake & exhaust vents.  If it does overheat, the computer will shut itself off.  You can monitor temps with HWInfo.  http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
Let me add one thing. The CPU will protect itself.  This is not true of other components, such as the RAM chips and the Hard drive.The Turbo Boost tech in all Intel Hardware is designed to run at the set speeds, this is the normal operation of the CPU.
It shouldn't shorten the life span of your computer unless it gets too hot for too long. (As said previously, just don't block the vents, and make sure you clean your computer with compressed air.)

As for the cost, it depends on if the CPU is in a socket or mounted to the board by soldier. If its the first, then probably the cost of a CPU. Otherwise, more expensive than its worth.Lifespan wise expect to lose 20 to 33 %...Turbo boost should not affect the lifespan of the CPU, the CPU will only turbo when it is at a safe enough temperature to do so.  Also remember that a CPU will have a very high lifespan (by the time it fails, if it ever does, it will likely be SEVERAL years since it was already completely obsolete) so even if turbo boost did affect lifespan, the CPU would have already passed its useful life well before it FAILED.

Quote from: patio on December 09, 2013, 04:47:34 PM

Lifespan wise expect to lose 20 to 33 %...

Most CPUs are stress/tested for a 7 year span at normal operating temperatures, saw normal was 45 deg C at full load all the time, and you OC to 65 deg C full load all the time, then the factor would be 2.89 decrease in time, so roughly 2.5 year lifespan... but CPUs are dynamic, spending much less than 10% of their life at full load... so, frankly, it would not be a problem.

Hi, I am a bit confused with will be best for me to get for my  PC.
I currently have:

Motherboard: Gigabyte M68MT-S2
Processor: AMD Bulldozer FX 8120
8 GB Ram,
1TB sata hard drive
Radeon hd 7770 1gb graphics card
etc...

I desperately need a new case and psu as things are getting too hot, and want to know what good PSU's are there that would be useful for me? I'm looking to overclock eventually and I imagine combined with the case I'm getting, I may need a high wattage one?

case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-119-160&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

Thanks in advance. 1.  Some details of your current case & psu would be helpful.
2.  Define:  too hot.

The Cooler Master case looks nice (it should for $120 with no psu). Quote from: Computer_Commando on OCTOBER 08, 2013, 11:33:45 AM

1.  Some details of your current case & psu would be helpful.
2.  Define:  too hot.

The Cooler Master case looks nice (it should for $120 with no psu).

The PSU doesn't blow into the case, it takes air from inside the case and expels it out of the back.
You shouldn't be looking to overclock with that motherboard, the Bulldozer will destroy it in no time.
The XFX Pro 550W or 650W is a good choice from a price/performance perspective.  A replacement PSU is highly advisable, the CiT is not a good unit.  Even if you don't have that exact unit, it won't be good quality if it came bundled with that case, for that price.

Interesting, it definitely should pull air in at the bottom and push air out of the back.  It's pretty much impossible for it not to, I can't see how a single fan could push air out of both the back and bottom, leaving nowhere for it to take air in.

Have a look here - http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database
It's a list of all, or almost all, AMD motherboards with VRM info.  Your board is only rated to 95W, not entirely sure how they get away with saying Bulldozer is supported on it to be honest.  The link at the start of the thread does a good job of explaining why VRM rating is so important.  I certainly would not want to overclock an already power hungry CPU on that board.

The Asus M5A97 Evo, or Evo R2, is generally regarded as a good board for AMD overclockers, alternatively consider the M5A99X Pro or Evo, or the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 although I would recommend the Asus boards.

£80 is plenty for a decent PSU, the XFX units I mentioned above are more than sufficient and are excellent quality and value for money.
I sound like an XFX shill sometimes but in the PSU market, there are only rare occasions an XFX doesn't make sense considering their cost.

Hello I'm looking to upgrade my
PC to be able to play newer games and
just something to give my computer a little bit
more processing power since it's a little out dated.

This is my current set up


My current budget is around 500 but if I need to spend more
don't be afraid to tell me

I also have a decent sized case
Why are you unhappy? The thing is already in the UPPER LEVELS of retail computers.
IMHO, the only area you have to improve is in the video graphics.
But before you do that, think about a newer motherboard. For $220 you can get a nice new motherboard, but no way to know if it would really improve performance.
you could get faster ram or an ssd

Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 10, 2013, 02:34:32 PM

Why are you unhappy? The thing is already in the upper levels of retail computers.
IMHO, the only area you have to improve is in the video graphics.
But before you do that, think about a newer motherboard. For $220 you can get a nice new motherboard, but no way to know if it would really improve performance.

That machine is pretty outdated...
... at this stage I would consider selling your current machine as it is and using the money you get from the sale along with your $500 to build/buy a completely new one.

i just bought acer aspire 4920 second hand , and the battery LAST about 1 hours and 30 minutes or more than 1 hour.
I plan to USE the laptop for downloading overnight and keep charging , will it cause the battery die faster ?
or is there any tool that can prevent charging after 100% and continue charging after 20-30 % battery left ?
my town always have blackout, so i set it to hibernate after reach 20% battery.If it only lasts 1 to 1.5 hours it is nearly dead and you need not worry about damaging it. If you connect a laptop to AC power it will stop charging the battery when it is 100% charged.
Quote

i just bought acer aspire 4920 second hand

i just got a gateway  sx2865  it was the EMACHINE SETTLEMENT  they have no support help no surprize  i tryed to hook up on internet i only have dial up and its telling me no modem  it has a phone jack on back but saying its high speed can you tell me it i can add a dial up modem and if so what kind thanks so MUCH for any help it has windows 8Probably just needs the modem driver.  GET it here:  https://support.gateway.com/product/default.aspx?modelId=4376

I have replaced the power switch in a Dell inspiron 545 and it still won't power up. The FAN turns in the power SUPPLY but it just WONT kick on. Could it be the mother board connection?Dells usually have diagnostic LEDs on the inside. Are there any lit on the MAIN board. Also have you reseated the memory.

What lead to the failure btw? Was replacing this power switch because it was flakey before replacement, and now its completely dead?

I have a P4 processor. Motherboard is of HP.

I want to upgrade to Core 2 Duo.Is my motherboard compatible for Core 2 Duo?

Here is the full configuration of my system which i got from CPU-Z

http://sanjaykumarb.me/SANJAY-PC.htmlUnable to read the link.
Can you make a screen shot and attach it as a JPG?
How do I take a screenshot in Windows?Here are the screen shots.

If not compatible for Core 2 Duo.

Please tell whether it supports Dual Core.

[recovering disk space, ATTACHMENT deleted by admin]Neither of those identify which MBoard you have...
That's the only way to determine what you want to know.Patio is right. I once thought anything with 775 socket was dual core band 64 bit capable. I was wrong. KNOWING winch motherboard is critical.Also to add, you may have to verify the BIOS flash VERSION as well for processor support. Such as towards the end of the support of a motherboard they sometimes add support for newer processors. So if you have an early release board, you may need to flash the BIOS to have additional CPU support.

A college friend of mine was given a system that had an old AMD Athlon 64 3000+  1.8Ghz single core which was socket AM2 and his ASUS motherboard stated that it would take a dual-core CPU, but he failed to read the fine print that stated that the flash version had to be say version 12, and his board was like version 4. I mailed to him a Sempron X2 2200 Dual-Core that I no longer needed as an upgrade for this board. He got the CPU and installed it andgot a black screen on boot and said thanks for a bad CPU as for it wont post. I asked him if he verified that his BIOS was up to date. I stated to install the old CPU BACK in and then flash it to latest, and then perform the CPU upgrade and this fixed the problem. He then appologized for the statement of sending him a bad CPU when the CPU was perfectly fine, and it was his BIOS flash version was out of date.

We need the exact motherboard make/model which is on the board somewheres or make/model computer that this board is in, also just as important is which Core 2 Duo you want to go with as for some boards will only support maximum of the E4xxx series while OTHERS will handle the E6xxx series etc. With this info we can give you a thumbs up or thumbs down for this install.

If this motherboard came with a Pentium 4 socket 775 installed dont be surprised if this motherboard can not handle a Core 2 Duo as for unfortunately many are out there that max out at either Pentium 4 HT or Pentium D, and this is more common in off the shelf computers where the motherboard was never really intended to take more powerful CPU's. BUT in some cases you can get lucky as for just like my friends motherboard it just needed a BIOS flash to get the Dual-Core processor support, but this was also a better brand ASUS motherboard and not an off brand like TriGem as is in the case of an old eMachine I have will not take any faster than a Pentium 4 2.0Ghz CPU and came originally with a Celeron 2.0Ghz, and wont take a Pentium 4 2.4Ghz etc because it was never meant to support a CPU upgade beyond a Pentium 4 from Celeron of the same 2.0Ghz clock speed.

Hey there guys,

So my computer has decided to no longer FUNCTION properly, and I believe it to be a hardware failure but I would like a second opinion before I try to deal with the manufacturers. So today my computer crashed for no reason, and I had to re install my operating system which is Windows 8. However, my SSD hard drive was no longer showing up in my bios menu and when I went to install windows, I could only put it on my 1TB hard drive that I was using a secondary. MY SSD is 256 GB and is a Seagate

So I installed it there and still, no sign of my SSD. So I am assuming my SSD has failed. However, when I try to re install my motherboard drivers, the computer breaks and is unable to start. The system will start to boot then give me an error message stating my computer has run into problems and needs to restart. The error message below displays so fast that it is impossible to read it. The computer just infinitely keeps restarting once I get to this point.  So what I am wondering is if this could be a duel hardware failure, or if my current hard drive is simply to old to handle the newer hardware of my custom made machine. I took it out of my old hp laptop that I had sense high school so I can't really say to much about what it is other then it's 1TB. The rest of my system specs are below.

ASUS Rampage IV Gene LGA 2011 Intel X79 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 MICRO ATX Intel Motherboard
Rosewill Xtreme Series RX850-S-B 850W Continuous 40°C ,80 PLUS Certified, ATX12V v2.2 & EPS12V v2.91, SLI Ready CrossFire Ready, Active PFC "Compatible with Core I7, i5" Power Supply
Intel Core i7-3820 Sandy Bridge-E 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 2011 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80619i73820
OCZ Vertex 450 Series VTX450-25SAT3-256G 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory MODEL F3-1600C9D-16GXM

Let me know what it could be and where a good place to go from where I am already at which is the infinite reboot. Could this be that my old hard drive simply can't handle the rest of my system, or could there potentially be a problem with my motherboard? Thanks in advance for any help you offer.Hi

When you loaded windows onto the 1TB was the 256Gb ssd still connected ?

If it was can you try booting with it disconnected ?

If the computer boots then the SSD has failed and should be replaced under warrantee.

When they do the ssd replacement they should test the rest of the computer as well.
   

Hi everyone,

I have a Seagate 500 GB SATA hard disk bought in September 2012. I had replaced it once in the warranty period sometime in May. It had 1 year warranty, so now the warranty has expired. It has started to make that clicking noise where the arm just keeps on moving from one end to other. Can this be repaired? I know I require an extremely dust free clean room. Is this because of some adjustment to the arm which has gone lose or something which can be fixed? or Can I change the arm by some method (taking out of another bad hard disk with PCB problem) or can this actually be a problem with the PCB which is making the arm just move and make weird noise or is this a firmware problem?
Btw, the hard disk runs fine if I hold it or keep it in a certain position.  And I am currently using it. I have backed up all important data to my external drive. Is there any method to fix this on my own?Effectively this disk is junk. If you have important data that you are prepared to pay to recover, go to a recovery COMPANY. Mechanical repairs of the the type you describe are beyond the scope of the ordinary person. You would need a clean room costing half a million dollars and also the technical expertise necessary. Normally rebuilding a hard drive in this way is only done if it is very important to get the data off the platters, e.g. desperately important financial information, evidence for a criminal case, or issues of national security.  Also, the reason for head seeks hitting up against the stops and causing a clicking SOUND need not necessarily be purely mechanical. Circuit board failure or serious platter surface damage could be making head positioning impossible. In the case of a circuit board failure you could try swapping the board with an identical item, but you have no assurance that this would fix the problem, and if it doesn't you have butchered a good drive for nothing.
I have already backed up data. I was just wondering what causes this and what steps can be taken to avoid this with future drives. If the clicking happens randomly, can this be the PCB? Hunting for a same PCB seems difficult as this is one of the recent drives still sold in the market. But I may keep it with me, some time in the future if such a drive comes, I can try with it's PCB
Quote
Btw, the hard disk runs fine if I hold it or keep it in a certain position.

That suggests to me that the drive has poor connections between the circuit board and the head/servo connector on most drives this is a pressure connection, with the circuit board having tinned pads that oxidise. If you live in a humid climate this happens easily. You can clean the board contacts with an eraser. Also try the drive on new cables sata cables and power connectors can become loose if swapped often.

Some tips to get the longest life from a hard drive.

Don't rotate or move the computer when the drive is on

Insure that the hard drive temperature is always within the ideal range   

Use anti static prosecutions when touching or installing the hard drive   

Always install with the power direct from the power supply  don't use adapters or tap in other power outputs like for fans etc

Replace your hard drive every 3 years before it gives trouble and keep the old drive as a backup of your system

Locate the computer somewhere where you have access to the drives and ports and won't be knocked Wow! Thanks Lisa, this is a lot of information, I will try your suggestions and post back results. Thanks Also, don't use your PC at altitudes above 5,000 meters. And do no use in an environment with less than 0C temperature.  And never when humidity is over 90%. Quote

Also, don't use your PC at altitudes above 5,000 meters

Curious as to this statement?  As for never heard of this and google is also at a loss at ... https://www.google.com/#q=hard+drive+5000+meters

Is this related to air bearing and thin air causing problems of gap between head and platters?

An update: The two large IC's get real hot when I hear the hdd making noise. Its cold in here, so if I put my dry but cold hand on the board, it stops??!! I wonder what it makes so hot?

why would those IC 's be over heating??

My new Lenovo M6811  has been encountering problems with my laptop. I hear a disconnecting noise while using the mouse and the cursor freezes but the LED remains on. After 10-15 seconds the connecting noise is heard and it starts working. This is happening too often and the same thing happens with the other USB 2.0 port as well as USB 3.0 port. Please help!
If it's new, better have it SOLVED under warranty.Hi

You need to check the power options version and update with the latest version from here.

http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/downloads/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-4GXPEG

There is instructions to check what version you have and how to install the latest drivers.

this should have been repaired using the THINK vantage update tool.  In most places electronic devices come with a warranty. The USER should not have to repair anything. Has the OP contacted the store?Geek

Lenovo's are supplied with Think vantage update software  for this situation . If a customer decides to take a unit back under  warranty when the fault could be fixed by running  the tools supplied the warranty agent WOULD  charge. This is because the agent is only paid for HARDWARE service not software problems .  Plus I would feel pretty stupid if it was me.
Software updates are for fixing rare or mild issues. The mouse behavior sounds more like a typical hardware issue. Either a bad bad mouse or a bad chips set or maybe a poor connection. Software updates do not repair really bad hardware.
Ask the vendor if this is a known issue that will be fixed with software. I  don't think so.


Hi

Does the same disconnect / reconnect happen with other USB devices like pen drives? If you do use a harddrive or pendrive to test make sure it doesn't have any important data on it.  Do you have another mouse to try ?
What model of mouse are you using ?.

Thankyou

when i switch my PC tower on all the fans rev up but then nothing happens afterwards what could be the problem please help me. Could be a NUMBER of problems, but before listing all of them... what LEAD up to this? Is there a history of problems that lead up to no boot or it was all of a sudden?

Also what make/model computer or if custom build all specs please?

Most common are power supply problem, however if this is a new build and the CPU is unsupported or damaged etc or wrong RAM installed etc you can get same results. More info is needed about what lead up to this so that I dont type 10000 WORDS on all the possibilities

can ANYONE help me can not see any vids
Not without more information...lol.....sorry....   


i like VLC for playing video files....

for videos on the internet you will likely need the newest ADOBE FLASH PLAYER...which you can GET on their website or follow the links on youtube etc...

A while ago a friend gave me their old Compaq PRESARIO F700 laptop computer when they bought a new laptop computer for themself. It originally had Windows Vista but then I tried reformatting the computer to delete all their personal settings and old data and start new. I found out then that that model computer had some issue with the partition that held the OS and then I was unable to install the Windows Vista again (there's articles about it on Google, some problem that was caused by manufacturer error when installing the software onto the partition).

Since the computer then had no OS, I partitioned the hard drive and put a copy of Windows XP that I had on a CD-Rom from my old Dell laptop computer and then put Linux Mint on the other partition and had a third partition that I was going to use to try Linux Ubuntu but never got around to installing it.  It's been a couple years since I did that. I only use that computer occasionally to do work on a program that won't work with Windows 7. I decided this week that I wanted to delete the extra third partition just extend the partition that held Linux Mint, then reformat that partition and install Linux Ubuntu instead.

When I initially created the partitions, I did that in BIOS but I didn't remember how to do that now and so I tried the advice from this YouTube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIWh5sFdtcw

to delete the extra partitions using the copy of Windows XP that was installed on that computer. I noticed two small extra partitions and didn't remember what they were and thought I'd made them in error previously so I deleted them too. Well, after I re-booted the computer now it goes to Compaq screen like usual but instead of then going to the screen where it give you the choice of which OS to load it instead goes to a blank black screen that says:

error: no such partition.
grub rescue>_

Obviously, I made a serious error to delete those other small partitions. Is this fixable?


Use the linux live cd to check whether the partitions for linux and / or windows exist?? Btw, you have probably deleted the grub, Boot loader normally used for Linux. Quote

Obviously, I made a serious error to delete those other small partitions. Is this fixable?

a copy of Windows XP that I had on a CD-Rom from my old Dell laptop